Official JTR Speakers Subwoofer Thread - Page 175 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5221 of 13495 Old 07-24-2017, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
While I would REAALLLY like to have one, I don't have the room for it. Sigh.
I feel your pain ğ??? I have room in the back for a 4000 ULF but it would be to easy to localize. 2400's are just to tall to use as stands so I'm leaning to dual 1400's. Room gain with dual 1400's in a 2200 cubic room should result in some pretty low frequencys, low enough to keep me a happy anywho ğ??? I really doubt I'll ever miss the 3hz lower tune of dual 2400's in my room.
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post #5222 of 13495 Old 07-24-2017, 10:27 PM
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I think you should audition someone's sealed subs in a sealed room and see if you find the TR satisfactory for you. Everyone is different. Some values the sound signature of sealed subs over the TR and some will take the TR and port wind any day and twice on Sundays.

Output comparison between 2 2400ULFs, 3 1400s and 2 S2s:

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Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
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FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

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post #5223 of 13495 Old 07-24-2017, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by turbojohngt View Post
I feel your pain ğ??? I have room in the back for a 4000 ULF but it would be to easy to localize. 2400's are just to tall to use as stands so I'm leaning to dual 1400's. Room gain with dual 1400's in a 2200 cubic room should result in some pretty low frequencys, low enough to keep me a happy anywho ğ??? I really doubt I'll ever miss the 3hz lower tune of dual 2400's in my room.
I have about 2100 cu ft with dual 1400s and they will flex the walls.
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post #5224 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 04:20 AM
 
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Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
If I go 2400ULF, it'd be duals, and I'd try them first along the front wall, next to my display, firing out at the MLP about 9-11 feet from the front. There's not really anything strange about the room, or anything built in that will be an issue.
Sounds like your placement will be alot like mine, as this was the best place in the entire room and I too sit about 10-12 ft. back for my main position. My room is roughly 3000 cu. ft.(sealed) and the 1400s will definitely make you beg for mercy. I am getting solid extension down to 12hz (10hz if i ran my duals abit hotter) due to room gain and the suspended floor just enhances the FR even more. I could not see myself putting dual 2400s in my room because i am already getting the extension that 99.9% of movies record and I would never utilize the full potential of what makes up that sub.
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post #5225 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 05:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
ScottieBoysName

I think you should audition someone's sealed subs in a sealed room and see if you find the TR satisfactory for you. Everyone is different. Some values the sound signature of sealed subs over the TR and some will take the TR and port wind any day and twice on Sundays.

Output comparison between 2 2400ULFs, 3 1400s and 2 S2s:

This is very helpful! And yes, you're totally correct. I'll need to audition some things before I make any final decisions.

Quick question for a newb like me, how did you come up with that chart?
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post #5226 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by turbojohngt View Post
I feel your pain ğ??? I have room in the back for a 4000 ULF but it would be to easy to localize. 2400's are just to tall to use as stands so I'm leaning to dual 1400's. Room gain with dual 1400's in a 2200 cubic room should result in some pretty low frequencys, low enough to keep me a happy anywho ğ??? I really doubt I'll ever miss the 3hz lower tune of dual 2400's in my room.
And that will probably be the same for me, but there's always that nagging thought in the back of my mind.
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post #5227 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 4kicknsnd View Post
I have about 2100 cu ft with dual 1400s and they will flex the walls.
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post #5228 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by LFE Junkie View Post
Sounds like your placement will be alot like mine, as this was the best place in the entire room and I too sit about 10-12 ft. back for my main position. My room is roughly 3000 cu. ft.(sealed) and the 1400s will definitely make you beg for mercy. I am getting solid extension down to 12hz (10hz if i ran my duals abit hotter) due to room gain and the suspended floor just enhances the FR even more. I could not see myself putting dual 2400s in my room because i am already getting the extension that 99.9% of movies record and I would never utilize the full potential of what makes up that sub.
This is good info. That seating position you just described, is that in the middle of the room? I've been hearing that the middle of the room is the worst place to be seating regarding MLP. Perhaps I should push it back?
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post #5229 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 05:19 AM
 
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Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
Quick question for a newb like me, how did you come up with that chart?
He used the bassline of databass for one sub and then did the following:

-Everytime you go from one to two subs you add an extra 6db (doubling output)
-Everytime you go from two to three subs you add 3 db extra (so 9 total db from the output of one sub)
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post #5230 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 05:29 AM
 
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Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
This is good info. That seating position you just described, is that in the middle of the room? I've been hearing that the middle of the room is the worst place to be seating regarding MLP. Perhaps I should push it back?
I have two rows of seats, the front is in the middle of the room (of course) and the back is around 3-4 ft. from back wall. 10-12 ft. front row sitting distance and around 18 ft. sitting distance. Middle of the room is not the worst place, only the worst place for center of room is if you have a square room (bedroom). If you have more of a square room or even a bit elongated (like a 12 x 15), your best postion would be up along the back wall. My room is elongated 23.4' x 15.8' x 9' and if i sent in the front row vs. the back row, the bass extension and punchiness is the exact same. Below is a shot at the rear of the room as you can see the two sets of rows.

I would still recommend you do a sub crawl to find the best place for your application. Its just putting them both up front where they are were the best for mine.
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post #5231 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 06:40 AM
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My 118Ht is 1ft to the left of the center of the MLP and 2.5 feet back.
LF Adjust at Max gives the best FR in my open room.
Gain set to only 3 clicks from low.
Calibrated to +7db hot
I love it there, the TR is awesome and it envelopes the MLP with great bass.
My favorite TR scene is in Terminator Genesis Chapter 16 1:47:40 where
John Connor Machine lands body blows to Arnold.
You feel every punch in your body!

That said the FR does not look good on paper between 17 - 30HZ. See the blue line in the attachment.
I can fix this dip by moving it to the front of the room. See the red line in the attachment.
With it in front I have to calibrate it to +10db to match the SPL level at the back.

When I saw the FR of the front, I was looking forward to hearing all I was missing.
BUT I did not hear what I was missing.
Maybe my ears are not trained for it ??
In fact, I prefer the back despite the worse FR.
The back has more TR being so close and envelopes me.
The front lacked all of this.

I have DIRAC on XMC-1 and have yet to configure that.
Can this dip be fixed with Calibration/Dirac or is this a Room problem that needs to be addressed?
I have been thinking of hiring someone like Nyal Mellor to come up with a plan for my room instead of throwing money at Dual 118HT or go Bigger because then I still don't have the expertise to setup it up optimally.
What do you guys think my next step should be?
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post #5232 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 08:07 AM
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I plan on having the subs in the front of the room, along the 13 foot wall along with my display, firing towards the MLP. I'll be about 9-11 feet back from the front wall (middle of the 18 foot long portion), facing the 13 foot wall where the display is.

I'm totally ok with ROUGH. The tank analogy is great. I honestly don't remember how much sub boost in the past, due to it being so long ago when I had a theater. I was running an SVS 20-39 then, and loved it.
I think that your distance from the subs is an important factor. In Ray's case, I believe that part of the reason he found even a single Cap 1400 so overwhelming in his room is that the sub was necessarily only 3' away. Ported subs generate enormously more tactile energy than equivalent sealed subs. And, that is especially noticeable at very close range. At a more typical listening distance of 10' (or more if you move back a little to avoid being in the center of the room) I believe that you will find even the more powerful Cap 2400 very appealing in your room.

If you like the idea of rough, and also like the tank analogy, then I think that the Cap 2400 will be the right choice for you. It's easy to just advise other people about what we like, which is why I think it's worthwhile to try to discover your preferences before giving specific advice. But, based on what you have said, I think that dual Cap 2400's would be a great choice. They happen to be my personal favorites among current ported sub choices.

That is partly because they are very versatile in terms of deployment, with both a low version and a tall version, and because they are also versatile in operation. As Can was alluding to earlier, you can use the Low Frequency Adjust to tone them down so that they are more like Cap 1400's, or you can use that same setting, in conjunction with the gain/trim level, to make them equivalent to a Cap 4000. In fact, at some frequencies, dual Cap 2400's can actually surpass the SPL of a single Cap 4000. And, with duals you also get the advantages of potential improvements in frequency response and additional bass envelopment. That envelopment is the sound or sensation (TR) that low frequencies are coming from more than one direction.

If you do have an opportunity to audition a good sealed sub in comparison to a good ported sub, that will be great. An ideal way to do that would be to post your location and ask for people willing to let you come listen to subs in an actual HT system, rather than in an audio store. I think that there even used to be a thread devoted to helping other people find HT's in their area where they could audition subs. If you want to do a forum search, you may be able to find it.

If you are not able to do the kind of auditions that you would like, I would still be inclined to gamble, based on what you have said, that the Cap 2400's would be the right subs for you. If you had emphasized "smooth" rather than "rough", or had been a little intimidated by the tank analogy, I might be more concerned. But, you seem to me to be a very good candidate for dual Cap 2400's. And, I don't want anyone to misunderstand what I mean by the term rough. A good ported sub simply sounds good. But, the tactile energy and the sheer amount of SPL a good ported sub can produce in the low to mid-teens is much more intense than what even very good sealed subs can produce. Chucky's tables demonstrate that difference in about the 12Hz to about the 18Hz range very well, although you sort of need to mentally extrapolate the 18Hz number.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

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post #5233 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbojohngt View Post
I feel your pain ğ??? I have room in the back for a 4000 ULF but it would be to easy to localize. 2400's are just to tall to use as stands so I'm leaning to dual 1400's. Room gain with dual 1400's in a 2200 cubic room should result in some pretty low frequencys, low enough to keep me a happy anywho ğ??? I really doubt I'll ever miss the 3hz lower tune of dual 2400's in my room.
turbo,

The 2400ULF comes in two size configurations. The "Tall Boy" and the "Low Rider". The "Low Rider" is (40"x 20"x 22" (DxWxH)) I know the JTR Web site now only shows the Tall Boy configuration. But it is still available in the Low Rider setup as well.

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Just FYI.
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post #5234 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 08:36 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Adamg (Ret-Navy) View Post
turbo,

The 2400ULF comes in two size configurations. The "Tall Boy" and the "Low Rider". The "Low Rider" is (40"x 20"x 22" (DxWxH)) I know the JTR Web site now only shows the Tall Boy configuration. But it is still available in the Low Rider setup as well.

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Just FYI.
Adam, those subs blend so well w/ your setup. Love the lamp sitting on the one.
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post #5235 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 08:38 AM
 
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Originally Posted by turbojohngt View Post
I feel your pain ğ??? I have room in the back for a 4000 ULF but it would be to easy to localize. 2400's are just to tall to use as stands so I'm leaning to dual 1400's. Room gain with dual 1400's in a 2200 cubic room should result in some pretty low frequencys, low enough to keep me a happy anywho ğ??? I really doubt I'll ever miss the 3hz lower tune of dual 2400's in my room.
Definitely 2 of the 1400s in that size sealed room would be an absolute killer. You should definitely get the lfe you are needing.
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post #5236 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 08:49 AM
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post #5237 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 08:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Curves View Post
So what are you going to do with the Casablanca multiple subwoofer outputs
Cold blooded!

But yes I do have xlr y splitter that I y split JTR with other subwoofers I have.
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post #5238 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by LFE Junkie View Post
Adam, those subs blend so well w/ your setup. Love the lamp sitting on the one.
Thanks LFE!

I had to dress them up a tad to get the WAF seal of approval. But in truth, I like the look as well. So we are both happy. To my ultimate surprise, rarely if ever, does anything move or need to be repositioned!

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P.S. I have been on a Watching binge the last several days. I watched the Season 1 through 6 of Game of Thrones on Blu-ray with Dolby ATMOS Sound. The Dragons both on and off screen put on one hell of a show and if you love LFE and excellent surround mixes, this Blu-Ray collection gets ***** Stars. Wow what a ride. Incredible and I can't wait till more ATMOS content like this emerges from the market.

Maybe its just me, and I have become "biased" about ATMOS. But darn if the LFE in most ATMOS tracks is not beyond awe inspiring. Always sounds so much richer and nuanced. Far better than the other CODECs. Gives a man "goose bumps" thinking about it.
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post #5239 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
This is very helpful! And yes, you're totally correct. I'll need to audition some things before I make any final decisions.

Quick question for a newb like me, how did you come up with that chart?
A lot of Jeff's subs were tested by Data-bass so we know what we are getting... No surprises. So boring.. Yawn... Cap 2400 is scheduled to be tested. IIRC, S1 and 2017 Cap 1400 are to follow.

Jeff said that the 2017 Cap 1400 will have 1dB more output down low. The port is also slightly taller.

Every time you double the numbers of subs, you get 6dB more output overall. So you get 6dB when you go from 1 to 2 subs, and another 6 dB from 2 to 4 subs. For 3 subs, let's just use 9dB.

Your room is a 18' * 13' * 10' sealed room. The cabin gain starts @ 23 Hz and by 11.5Hz, you should be +12dB and by 6 Hz, you are +24dB. Depending on how close you put the subs to the walls, you might get 3 ~ 9 dB of boundary gain.

For reference level playback, you need 115dB from subs. Let's just use 120db. As you can see, all 3 options will give you tremendous output above 31.5Hz. Because the S2 uses 2 drivers and a 4000W amp (thus the most expensive), one on one it is able to hang with the ported brothers down to 20 Hz.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

Last edited by chucky7; 07-25-2017 at 10:13 AM.
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post #5240 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 10:18 AM
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I agree....the 1400 is an amazing sub. I posted this in the JTR speaker thread: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/89-spe...l#post54012121
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I was the "audio guy" this weekend for my nieces' wedding. Took a pair of my S8's for the LR and borrowed a Cap 1400 from a friend that lives nearby. Granted he bought the Cap a few years ago after he asked me which sub he should buy.

I used my Parasound Halo as the pre and I was hoping it had enough power to fill the barn. Yeah no problem there...the S8's filled the barn with the sound we all love with JTR. However the Cap 1400 was the star of the show. The 1400 is a monster...pressurizing the whole barn with clean, tight bass. I know many of us quickly skip right past Jeff's smaller offerings and go straight to the 4000ULF or the S2. But if you were ever wondered if the 1400 had the ability to fill your 3000 sq ft theater room...hell yeah! And two would be even better. Huge props to Jeff on the 1400...amazing sub!

And being full of non-audio folks I was surprised on how many commented on how amazing the speakers sounded. And a few said "the bass was awesome." So given the crowd...it had to be quite sensational.
Awesome!!!

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #5241 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 10:27 AM
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This is very helpful! And yes, you're totally correct. I'll need to audition some things before I make any final decisions.

Quick question for a newb like me, how did you come up with that chart?
Here is the same data in graph form. The formula for increased number of subs is log(n)*20 where n=number of subs. For example, 3 subs is log(3)*20=9.54 dB. This is the maximum gain that occurs at the frequencies that are in phase with each other.

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post #5242 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 12:01 PM
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I have been debating with myself whether to let my post recommending dual Cap 2400's just stand as it is, or to come back to the subject. Desertdome's graph of the three options being considered on this thread, helps to put things in perspective. It is hard to imagine someone wanting to have more than 125db above about 30 or 35Hz, but fairly easy to imagine someone wanting to have more than 110db at ~15Hz, or more than 105db at ~12Hz. And, the Cap 2400's are going to have big advantages over the S2's starting at about 20Hz.

Of course, room gain can be expected to help make up for a lot of the difference in available SPL between the two subs. But, room gain can be somewhat unpredictable, so my personal inclination is to reach for the native SPL I want, irrespective of room gain. But, I'm not sure that I'm right about that. ScottieBN had also asked for advice on the PSA thread and I just caught up on the posts from the last couple of days. I thought that everyone was trying to be very objective and helpful. Sealed sub owners tended to recommend the S3001 or the S3601, and ported sub owners tended to recommend the V3601. Some posters tried to base their advice mainly on his room size, but I continue to believe that our own bass and TR preferences are just as important as room size.

The thing is that this JTR subwoofer thread has tended to attract slightly more extreme bassheads , since Can created it. So, there is a somewhat self-selecting quality to the people who post regularly on this thread. And, dual Cap 2400's are sort of extreme basshead subs, in my opinion. The reality is that in a room that size, and on a wooden floor, at least 95% of the people on AVS would probably be delighted with dual S3001's. And dual S2's would be a nice step up even from dual S3601's. But, what about the other small percentage who really want to be rocked by their bass in movies? For them, ported subs can offer a lot more SPL and tactile response in that critical <30Hz range, almost irrespective of room gain. And, the tactile response of a ported sub is actually not influenced by room gain, so that has to be native to the sub itself.

Where I am going with this is that even if the OP wanted to buy ported subs, dual Cap 1400's would probably be more than enough in that room, much less three Cap 1400's. But, it seems to me, that if someone can afford to go with dual Cap 2400's, the additional low frequency SPL is still worth having. And, then he can still choose to have more or less low bass, via the use of the Low Frequency Adjust feature, depending on mood or specific circumstances. Any of the subs that ScottieBN has been comparing would probably work very well, but the Cap 2400's are for someone who really considers himself a basshead and who wants to remove all doubt about available headroom or low frequency SPL. So, it seems to me, that aspect of the buying decision is as self-selecting as participation in this thread.

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

Last edited by mthomas47; 07-25-2017 at 02:15 PM.
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post #5243 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
I have been debating with myself whether to let my post recommending dual Cap 2400's just stand as it is, or to come back to the subject. Desertdome's graph of the three options being considered on this thread, helps to put things in perspective. It is hard to imagine someone wanting to have more than 125db above about 30 or 35Hz, but fairly easy to imagine someone wanting to have more than 110db at ~15Hz, or more than 105db at ~12Hz. And, the Cap 2400's are going to have big advantages over the S2's starting at about 20Hz.

Of course, room gain can be expected to help make up for a lot of the difference in available SPL between the two subs. But, room gain can be somewhat unpredictable, so my personal inclination is to reach for the native SPL I want, irrespective of room gain. But, I'm not sure that I'm right about that. ScottyBN had also asked for advice on the PSA thread and I just caught up on the posts from the last couple of days. I thought that everyone was trying to be very objective and helpful. Sealed sub owners tended to recommend the S3001 or the S3601, and ported sub owners tended to recommend the V3601. Some posters tried to base their advice mainly on his room size, but I continue to believe that our own bass and TR preferences are just as important as room size.

The thing is that this JTR subwoofer thread has tended to attract slightly more extreme bassheads , since Can created it. So, there is a somewhat self-selecting quality to the people who post regularly on this thread. And, dual Cap 2400's are sort of extreme basshead subs, in my opinion. The reality is that in a room that size, and on a wooden floor, at least 95% of the people on AVS would probably be delighted with dual S3001's. And dual S2's would be a nice step up even from dual S3601's. But, what about the other small percentage who really want to be rocked by their bass in movies? For them, ported subs can offer a lot more SPL and tactile response in that critical <30Hz range, almost irrespective of room gain. And, the tactile response of a ported sub is actually not influenced by room gain, so that has to be native to the sub itself.

Where I am going with this is that even if the OP wanted to buy ported subs, dual Cap 1400's would probably be more than enough in that room, much less three Cap 1400's. But, it seems to me, that if someone can afford to go with dual Cap 2400's, the additional low frequency SPL is still worth having. And, then he can still choose to have more or less low bass, via the use of the Low Frequency Adjust feature, depending on mood or specific circumstances. Any of the subs that ScottyBN has been comparing would probably work very well, but the Cap 2400's are for someone who really considers himself a basshead and who wants to remove all doubt about available headroom or low frequency SPL. So, it seems to me, that aspect of the buying decision is as self-selecting as participation in this thread.

Regards,
Mike
Obviously there is little to add to what Mike has said above and in his previous response. Graphs and Charts are great aids, but they don't tell the whole story. The Tactile energy Mike is talking about is what we Bass heads feed on. It is that "Feeling" of bass that makes us Smile! Not hearing bass, as most subs can do the hearing part. But precious few can produce the low frequency stuff that your body FEELS! This is the stuff that drives the excitement. If your just looking to hear great Bass, you have lots to chose from. The market is flush with high quality affordable Bass Monsters. Pick a color and your done.

But if you want to FEEL your bass, well then, you need to look for that Low Extension output ability. Below 20Hz about is where we start to FEEL the bass. In the past this low stuff was only available in Sealed Subs and you need quite a few of them to reach reference levels. Along Came Jeff and his "ULF" Ported Monsters (4000ULF & 2400ULF). Jeff gave us the best of both "Sealed and Ported" worlds. A ported Sub that goes as low as most sealed subs was mostly unheard of. Not anymore and this is an very important thing to consider. Why just eat Chocolate or Vanilla Ice Cream when you can have BOTH!
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post #5244 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
ScottieBoysName

I think you should audition someone's sealed subs in a sealed room and see if you find the TR satisfactory for you. Everyone is different. Some values the sound signature of sealed subs over the TR and some will take the TR and port wind any day and twice on Sundays.

Output comparison between 2 2400ULFs, 3 1400s and 2 S2s:

My goodness this chart is just ridiculously impressive by any standards! Even to get these kind of numbers in the DIY world isn't easy. I sealed the deal on @Naylorman32 pair of s2's. I should have them in house by this weekend.
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post #5245 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 12:56 PM
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My goodness this chart is just ridiculously impressive by any standards! Even to get these kind of numbers in the DIY world isn't easy. I sealed the deal on @Naylorman32 pair of s2's. I should have them in house by this weekend.
Congrats. Your life as you know it is about to be "BLOWN". Strap in, and hold the hell on! Its going to get a bit bumpy!
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post #5246 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Darian97 View Post
My goodness this chart is just ridiculously impressive by any standards! Even to get these kind of numbers in the DIY world isn't easy. I sealed the deal on @Naylorman32 pair of s2's. I should have them in house by this weekend.
Congratulations!!!

I hope you realize what you just got yourself into... I see that you have heard SB16-Ultra and SB13-Ultra before...



From 10~80Hz, each S2 averages 11dB more output than a SVS SB16-Ultra and 13dB more output than a SVS SB13-Ultra.

This means, each S2 is capable of playing more than twice as loud as a SB16-Ultra. Each S2 is also capable of the output of more than 3 SB16-Ultras, or 4 SB13-Ultras.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #5247 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 02:10 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Darian97 View Post
My goodness this chart is just ridiculously impressive by any standards! Even to get these kind of numbers in the DIY world isn't easy. I sealed the deal on @Naylorman32 pair of s2's. I should have them in house by this weekend.
Gratz on the S2s. Please post pics and welcome to the JTR club.
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post #5248 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Curves View Post
My 118Ht is 1ft to the left of the center of the MLP and 2.5 feet back.
LF Adjust at Max gives the best FR in my open room.
Gain set to only 3 clicks from low.
Calibrated to +7db hot
I love it there, the TR is awesome and it envelopes the MLP with great bass.
My favorite TR scene is in Terminator Genesis Chapter 16 1:47:40 where
John Connor Machine lands body blows to Arnold.
You feel every punch in your body!

That said the FR does not look good on paper between 17 - 30HZ. See the blue line in the attachment.
I can fix this dip by moving it to the front of the room. See the red line in the attachment.
With it in front I have to calibrate it to +10db to match the SPL level at the back.
Curves

Could you please do the following:

1. Where: Cap 118HT @ 1ft to the left of the center of the MLP and 2.5 feet back.
What: run the auto calibration
Setting: Gain @ 10 o'clock, LF Adjust @ 1/2, Crossover @ 120 Hz/Out, Delay @ 0 ms, RCA input @ left and input switch @ RCA.

Do not add trim or adjust anything.

Then do a FR with REW.

2. Where: Cap 118HT @ the front of the room.
What: run the auto calibration
Setting: Gain @ 11 o'clock, LF Adjust @ 1/2, Crossover @ 120 Hz/Out, Delay @ 0 ms, RCA input @ left and input switch @ RCA.

Do not add trim or adjust anything.

Then do a FR with REW.

Capture the FR and report back.

I would like to see the comparison.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-su...l#post52359193

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #5249 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
Congratulations!!!

I hope you realize what you just got yourself into... I see that you have heard SB16-Ultra and SB13-Ultra before...



From 10~80Hz, each S2 averages 11dB more output than a SVS SB16-Ultra and 13dB more output than a SVS SB13-Ultra.

This means, each S2 is capable of playing more than twice as loud as a SB16-Ultra. Each S2 is also capable of the output of more than 3 SB16-Ultras, or 4 SB13-Ultras.
I had the luxury of owning some pretty nice subs over the years. My very first "high end" sub was a SVS PC 20-39. Should have never jumped into the rabbit hole!

Subs I've personally owned...
SVS PC 20-39
Dual PSA V3600i's
Dual SVS PB13 ultra's
Dual SVS SB13 ultra's
Dual Funk Audio 18.0c's

Subs I've auditioned during their trial period...
PSA S3000i
Dual SVS SB16's
PSA S3601
HSU sub (cant remember the model)

Needless to say I'm extremely excited to get the JTR S2's in my possession! I've been subwooferless in my family room for a few months now. However, it has given me time to enjoy my fully custom Funk sub in my smaller theater. I'll be writing my impressions on it in the Funk thread soon. Here's a little subwoofer porn for you guys. :-) Hope it's ok to post this here.
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post #5250 of 13495 Old 07-25-2017, 02:59 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Darian97 View Post
I had the luxury of owning some pretty nice subs over the years. My very first "high end" sub was a SVS PC 20-39. Should have never jumped into the rabbit hole!

Subs I've personally owned...
SVS PC 20-39
Dual PSA V3600i's
Dual SVS PB13 ultra's
Dual SVS SB13 ultra's
Dual Funk Audio 18.0c's

Subs I've auditioned during their trial period...
PSA S3000i
Dual SVS SB16's
PSA S3601
HSU sub (cant remember the model)

Needless to say I'm extremely excited to get the JTR S2's in my possession! I've been subwooferless in my family room for a few months now. However, it has given me time to enjoy my fully custom Funk sub in my smaller theater. I'll be writing my impressions on it in the Funk thread soon. Here's a little subwoofer porn for you guys. :-) Hope it's ok to post this here.
Wow, you have heard and auditioned some really good subs. Can't wait to hear how the S2s compare. Love the Funk sub pic
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