Official JTR Speakers Subwoofer Thread - Page 198 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5911 of 12685 Old 08-27-2017, 01:10 PM
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cool post^^
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post #5912 of 12685 Old 08-27-2017, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Reddig View Post
HOLY CRAP was it ever awesome!! Gut punching chest rattling bass and midbass all with no sign of stress.
Good to hear. Are you the same guy that had the Funk 18 and some PSA subs in the past, IIRC?
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post #5913 of 12685 Old 08-27-2017, 01:31 PM
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I suggest that it is possible to be a JTR fan without being a fanboy.
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post #5914 of 12685 Old 08-27-2017, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
Good to hear. Are you the same guy that had the Funk 18 and some PSA subs in the past, IIRC?

Thanks man. No sorry tvuong that must be somone else but I actually am coming from a pair of PSA XV-15's. You were close

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post #5915 of 12685 Old 08-27-2017, 02:02 PM
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Talking Free Digital "Metallica" Code

I have a digital code for the Movie "Metallica "Through the Never" available. With glorious DTS-HD Master Audio Sound.

First PM gets it! Good Luck.

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anything that the government does not first,
take from somebody else.
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post #5916 of 12685 Old 08-27-2017, 02:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Adam great post. I love your ideas, at the same time that I am not concerned about these hot exchanges of opinions. Bumps along the way are nearly inevitable when there are choices; no exception that I've seen in any forum or thread.

It's a delicate balance for sure, all hinge on an important point: who decides when an idea is true belief, or narrow minded bias? An example is on this very thread's first page, where comparison chart and opinions (on CEA averages and third party testing) were posted that directly criticize competing brands. Truth, or, fanboy's bias? Isn't the "mine is better" chart the very basis of how many buyers make their decision?

IMHO, open exchange of ideas (of course) is the ideal, but above example illustrates why so called "owners" thread like this is necessary. It *is* open to ALL participants, but also requires a give and take of NETIQUETTE. Some basic ones: don't criticize owners for justifying what they buy, they *are* so called "fanboy" but maybe not a good idea to use such term, don't repeat personal/subjective finding ad nauseum - "once and done", etc.

Do I understand open forums' ideals? Yes. Do I go to XXX thread and post critical opinion? Rarely, if ever, because to XXX owners, it is a bias, and worse, I might be wrong. At most, if I am really itchy to make myself known, I'd start another thread. All that said, your points are well taken. Thnx and welcome back.

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post #5917 of 12685 Old 08-27-2017, 04:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Just wanting to add a couple points: yes the bass is excellent so definitely worth it, and yes it is gut wrenching to see the marines ran into open fire on command. I'm almost heart broken watching them. An old series but worth watching again with your new subwoofer. Might just replace one of my all time favorites Band of Brothers, as number one on my list.

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Originally Posted by cannga View Post
As I meander through The Pacific, I once again must put a plug-in for the sound of this series, DTS MA upmixed with DTS Neural:X, as the best & most impressive example of movie upmixing I have heard.

Perhaps it is not fair because The Pacific is MADE for upmixers: being in the Pacific, of course plenty of rain drops and jungle environments with bird calls, bugs buzzing, etc., then outside of the jungle, you have all out combats with bullets and planes whizzing overhead. But boy the upmixer just nails it good. DTS 3D might have been late, but perhaps that extra time has given the engineers more time to judge competitors and perfect the technology? I look forward to listening to more Dolby Surround upmixer, but right now I find DTS Neural:X very hard to beat.

The realism of sound adds to the brutality of Pacific warfare such that at times it feels like I couldn't breathe. Then I realize I was just holding my breath . This is movie sound at its very best; highly recommended.

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post #5918 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 01:47 AM
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https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-su...l#post23763918

I may have posted the above before. What makes a scene a sub killer? The following is the content of the post:

********************************

To everyone reading this and wondering what some of the most demanding scenes are, I made a post in a different thread regarding someone tripping a breaker on the Washington Monument scene in Olympus Has Fallen after never having that problem before. Because it might be useful and particularly illustrative to some others reading this forum, here's the bulk of my post with minor edits in [brackets].

I think what's going on here [re: breaker popping] is that the OHF Washington Monument scene asks your amps, wiring, and breakers to pass a LARGE amount of current for a very long time, about 21 seconds as shown in this SL graph:



The scene finishes with a huge blast at the end. What's likely happening is your breaker is really warm and close to tripping to begin with in that scene, after passing so much current for so long, then the last four seconds and the final bit with content to DC pops it over the edge. The end of that scene asks your bass managed system (not running hot) to produce 124dB, and a large portion of it from dc-3Hz.

A more efficient amp (if that's truly what the IPR is) might work, although the end of that scene is a LOT to ask of an amp @ 2ohms, same for your wiring/breaker.

Take some heart, though - that's about the worst case scenario your system is ever going to see. There really aren't any scenes that compare with that one in terms of intensity & duration.

The Incredible Hulk - Cop Car Smash is fun, but isn't close:



HTTYD's Dragon Crash is a powerful effect, but the duration isn't [comparable]:



Flight of the Phoenix - Barrel Roll segment of the plane crash scene has that really hot bit @ 32Hz, but overall isn't nearly as great:



War of the Worlds - Plane Crash has deep content, for sure, but doesn't ask for the same sustained output:



[It was brought up that the Pulse Server Room scene might present an interesting comparison.]

Pulse - Server Room Scene isn't a constant duration effect, and not [nearly] as intense:



In fact, it's hard to find another scene directly comparable to Olympus Has Fallen's Washington Monument scene.

However, I did find one:

The Last Airbender - Water Wall scene is the only thing that comes close:



It's [much] longer than OHF Washington Monument scene (4x longer), but less intense and not as deep [especially in the content around and below 20Hz].

So, I think if you can get your settings & system dialed in to where you never clip or trip the breaker on the OHF Washington Monument scene, AND you have all the output you could ever want (even to show off), you'll never have to worry again.

*****************************

Too bad Edge of Tomorrow came out after this post... Now we can just run it back to back to give our JTR subs a work out...

BTW, I revisited Don't Breath - Money shot scene today. It is definitely a chuffing inducing scene... Ding ding ding!!! We have another winner!!!

So now for the Chuffing Hall of Fame, we have:

Edge of Tomorrow - first 40 seconds
World War Z - Grenade scene 01:04:46 - 01:05:35
Pulse - Server scene
Don't Breath - Money Shot scene 00:29:12 ~ 00:30:21

Kids, please don't try this at home... We are trained professionals... We know what we are doing... Or do we??? Lesser subs need not apply...

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

Last edited by chucky7; 08-28-2017 at 03:48 AM.
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post #5919 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 03:03 AM
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Great post! OHF Washington Monument scene is fantastic demo material - and the couple of minutes leading up to it are great too!
How loud is the MV (and how hot is the 1400 running) before you get obnoxious chuffing with some of these scenes? I imagine it would take a fair bit, approaching Reference Level, at least in the LFE channel
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post #5920 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 03:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamiebosco View Post
Great post! OHF Washington Monument scene is fantastic demo material - and the couple of minutes leading up to it are great too!
How loud is the MV (and how hot is the 1400 running) before you get obnoxious chuffing with some of these scenes? I imagine it would take a fair bit, approaching Reference Level, at least in the LFE channel
I have never really experimented with at what MV the chuffing would start. In addition, the chuffing was not obnoxious... It was quick and kind of blends in. No wonder some don't even know it's there. I consider it the side-effect of the awesome port wind...

Below are all measured with the UMIK-1 @ MLP using SPL meter in REW. It's too bad it's not just the LFE.

With my Pioneer MV @ -17.5 dB (equivalent to -12.5dB MV on Denon), +3dB sub trim, and the LF Adjust @ Max, which adds another 6 dB @ 20 Hz: ( This means the LFE is 19dB hotter than the other 5 channels )

Chuffing scenes:
Edge of Tomorrow - Intro: 114dB @ 30Hz, 120dB @ 25Hz, 124dB @ 20Hz, 118dB @ 15Hz, 109dB @ 10Hz. I think chuffing starts at 25 Hz
World War Z - Grenade - 120 dB.

Non-chuffing scenes:
Olympus Has Fallen - Washington Monument - 121 dB.
Flight of the Phoenix - Crash landing - 119 dB.

*******

With my Pioneer MV @ -15dB (equivalent to -10dB MV on Denon), no sub trim, and the LF Adjust @ Max. ( This means the LFE is 16dB hotter than the other 5 channels). Flight of the Phoenix - Crash landing scene - 124dB. No chuffing.

*******

With my Pioneer MV @ -12.5dB (equivalent to -7.5dB MV on Denon), no sub trim, and the LF Adjust @ 12 o'clock. ( This means the LFE is 10dB hotter than the other 5 channels ). Don't Breath - Money Shot scene 00:29:12 ~ 00:30:21. There was chuffing.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

Last edited by chucky7; 08-28-2017 at 03:49 AM.
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post #5921 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 04:31 AM
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Cheers,Thanks for that
By " No sub trim" do you mean that you haven't adjusted it from where Pioneer set it?


Yeah the head shot scene in Don't Breath is brutal, I've never pushed that one to the limit, but could tell it had the potential to cause chuffing if played loud enough


Though not a scene known to cause chuffing, one scene I think is overlooked for really impressive bass is the .50 Cal scene from The Hurt Locker, my friend asks me to play it every time he comes over now lol

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TV: Panasonic P65ST60 AVR: Denon 4311ci Speakers: PSA MTM-210C (Centre), PSA MTM-210 (Left & Right), PSA MT-110 (Surrounds) Subwoofers: Dual Seaton SubMersives
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post #5922 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamg (Ret-Navy) View Post
Greetings All,

I have just returned from a nice Vacation with the Bride. We enjoyed a extensive tour of Colorado and Santa Fe New Mexico. So that explains my absence of late. I tried to unplug and remain in the moment of our trip.

Upon returning and reading all the posts that have accumulated during my absence, I came away with a negative sense of where this thread is headed. While this thread remains @cannga as the creator. As a JTR Owner and thread participant, I feel I have a little ownership as well.

It is my wish and hope that we return to our Open and Welcoming community, greeting all who come as guests and new friends. Where we do not criticize and belittle those whom choose a different brand other than JTR. The pissing contests and abrupt "my stuff is better" than yours has to stop. I enjoy and learn from constructive and polite discourse, but of late that is lacking.

We as a community are far better than this. Lets raise our standards to reflect the product and Builder we so eagerly follow. Not everyone is going to chose JTR. It is their Money and their choice. In the end, we all want what makes us happy. To attempt to squash that happiness in another is something that reflects poorly on ALL of us.

Do we really want to see our beloved JTR thread turn into just another place to come and argue from behind a keyboard? Flame, belittle, and disrespect each others decisions and opinions? That nonsense is reserved for the immature of mind crowd. I am trying not to make this sound harsh or singling out any particular person.

I am trying to reach out and remind all my friends here, that we have higher standards than that. That this JTR Thread is where you will find some of the "sharpest minds" and "well informed Bass Aficionados'" anywhere, period. That all are welcome and that they can rely upon receiving sound advice and unbiased guidance! No matter what Make or Model they ultimately chose. We will help all comers. We will provide the facts, the charts, the graphs and the numbers. But in the end, the final purchase decision is not ours to make. We will respect that persons decision and then go about helping them get the very best performance out of the product they chose.

Yes we are JTR Fanboys, but we are also adults who fully realize one size does not fit ALL. Life goes on, and if we can not make this a great place to come and hang out, why come at all? Why take another persons buying choice so personal? Can we rise above that?

I know we can. I have seen it. I expect to see it again. Thank you for taking the time to read this. I do very much appreciate every single person here. Everyone has something to contribute. One just needs to listen. Wisdom is found anywhere you look for it.

P.S.: Boy did I miss my SUBS! Happy to be home with renewed excitement to sit back and bask in a wall of perfect bass that I am fortunate enough to enjoy.
Excellent post. I think this captures the spirit to which JTR owners (as well as others) should strive for. Good spirited dialogue when comparing products will always happen and bring differing opinions, but once the OP has made their decision and is no longer looking for input; IMO it should be a "congrats on your decision" and move on.

Also, know that while certain individuals may start "owner" threads and have admin rights, they actually don't "own" the thread. That distinction is spread to all of its owners and fans, not one individual. Rest assured your opinion counts equally among the rest!
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post #5923 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 08:42 AM
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So while I'm waiting on the results of my FedEx claim for the damage on my 2400, I figured I can still enjoy it.


I ended up doing the sub crawl and the best spot I could find was in the corner. Definitely better than where it was, a few feet to the left. Audessey ended up setting it at -7 with the gain on the sub at 3 o'clock and LFA at max during Audessey set up. After I moved LFA to minimum, and I upped the trim in the AVR to -3. After watching a few movies I upped the LFA to 9 o'clock. No dynamic volume or dynamic EQ.


I was watching Transformers: Age of Extinction last night. In the scene where Galvatron is chasing them on the highway, Bumblebee and Optimus go up in the air and there is a bass drop. At the end of that bass drop I noticed some port noise. I was listening at -24 so I was surprised it did that. I wasn't able to get rid of the noise at -24 until I dropped the trim in the AVR to -6 with LFA still at 9 o'clock. I tried to leave the sub trim at -3 with LFA all the down but the noise stayed.


Before this, I had watched Life and that sounded great. No unwanted noises at the same MV.


Anyone else getting unwanted noise on that scene? Does it sound like I had the sub boosted too much? I wanted to try this evening to measure with REW what I can, anything I should look for? Thanks.
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post #5924 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 09:04 AM
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Drew1204

Have you figured out what's causing the noise/paper rattling sound from the woofer?

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #5925 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xbsatx View Post
So while I'm waiting on the results of my FedEx claim for the damage on my 2400, I figured I can still enjoy it.

I ended up doing the sub crawl and the best spot I could find was in the corner. Definitely better than where it was, a few feet to the left. Audessey ended up setting it at -7 with the gain on the sub at 3 o'clock and LFA at max during Audessey set up. After I moved LFA to minimum, and I upped the trim in the AVR to -3. After watching a few movies I upped the LFA to 9 o'clock. No dynamic volume or dynamic EQ.

I was watching Transformers: Age of Extinction last night. In the scene where Galvatron is chasing them on the highway, Bumblebee and Optimus go up in the air and there is a bass drop. At the end of that bass drop I noticed some port noise. I was listening at -24 so I was surprised it did that. I wasn't able to get rid of the noise at -24 until I dropped the trim in the AVR to -6 with LFA still at 9 o'clock. I tried to leave the sub trim at -3 with LFA all the down but the noise stayed.

Before this, I had watched Life and that sounded great. No unwanted noises at the same MV.

Anyone else getting unwanted noise on that scene? Does it sound like I had the sub boosted too much? I wanted to try this evening to measure with REW what I can, anything I should look for? Thanks.
You calibrated it wrong. You should leave the LF Adjust lower at auto calibration, then turn it up to taste after.

IIRC, Transformers: Age of Extinction has a boosted LFE. I wouldn't be surprised if there were a lot of clipping.

You Cap 2400ULF should not be chuffing at -24dB. The damage to the cabinet has compromised your sub's capabilities. For now, can you use duct tape to temporarily seal the damaged corner, assuming that doing so won't interfere with the damage claim?
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Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

Last edited by chucky7; 08-28-2017 at 11:58 AM.
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post #5926 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xbsatx View Post
So while I'm waiting on the results of my FedEx claim for the damage on my 2400, I figured I can still enjoy it.


I ended up doing the sub crawl and the best spot I could find was in the corner. Definitely better than where it was, a few feet to the left. Audessey ended up setting it at -7 with the gain on the sub at 3 o'clock and LFA at max during Audessey set up. After I moved LFA to minimum, and I upped the trim in the AVR to -3. After watching a few movies I upped the LFA to 9 o'clock. No dynamic volume or dynamic EQ.


I was watching Transformers: Age of Extinction last night. In the scene where Galvatron is chasing them on the highway, Bumblebee and Optimus go up in the air and there is a bass drop. At the end of that bass drop I noticed some port noise. I was listening at -24 so I was surprised it did that. I wasn't able to get rid of the noise at -24 until I dropped the trim in the AVR to -6 with LFA still at 9 o'clock. I tried to leave the sub trim at -3 with LFA all the down but the noise stayed.


Before this, I had watched Life and that sounded great. No unwanted noises at the same MV.


Anyone else getting unwanted noise on that scene? Does it sound like I had the sub boosted too much? I wanted to try this evening to measure with REW what I can, anything I should look for? Thanks.
Hi,

I had to go back to Page 192 to be sure that I was correctly remembering the damage to your subwoofer. But, you essentially have a large hole in your cabinet, which doesn't allow the subwoofer cabinet to pressurize properly. There is no way a properly functioning Cap 2400 should chuff at -24 MV. But, as noted, that subwoofer can't possibly function properly with that much damage to the cabinet.

As Chucky pointed out, once you have a replacement sub, you should calibrate with the LF adjust at about the mid-way point. You can then go up or down, as required. And, you will probably not need to go above about 9:00 or 10:00 with your gain control to get a good negative AVR trim setting. But, other than identifying a good potential location for your sub, as you have, there isn't much you can do about it's diminished capabilities until you get a replacement. It's a bummer.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #5927 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 09:36 AM
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Well...crap.

Thanks for the quick input. I guess its time to bust out the old 10inch HSU lol. I already sold the VTF-15. This sucks.
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post #5928 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 10:31 AM
 
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On the Emotiva XMC1, you have 3 options for calibration (65,75, and 85db) depending on your sensitivity on speakers. I have mine set at the 65 db setting, and all my speakers are about 0. The subs are under the same 65db and one is -3.5 and the other is -1.5. The gain on my sub is 12 oclock. So if i was to calibrate to the 75db, then everything will be 10db less and the subs would be -13 and -11.5 respectively. Saying all that, since the signal is lower on the 65db setting, should it hurt the subs to run them on the +side? Don't think i would ever do this as the subs are plenty, but this was just a random thought i had the other day.
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post #5929 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 11:19 AM
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Which sub?

Hi all,

Long time listener, first time caller. As I am sitting in Houston glued to the storm coverage, I am throwing out thoughts and prayers to those that need it most.

I’m going to apologize ahead of time for the long post but I’d rather give too much info than not enough. I want to reach out to the collective hive on upgrading my subwoofer wants.

I currently have 2 sealed subs, an sb13 and sb16. I have been advised by some and read that with such a large room to go ported (probably should have done that in the first place) but I do like the sound of the sealed subs I have. I would like to have good mid bass but would also like subs that can extent deep, clean and have serious impact. I’m aware of the sealed vs. ported debate, I am and I have read enough to know that room acoustics can play a significant role. That being said, I already have decent sealed sub in the SB-16 and will probably buy a ported sub to compare. Listening mix is probably 75% movie and 25% music but I would like subs that sound great for both. I want the best of both worlds....who doesn’t. Attached (if I did it correctly) is a poorly drawn schematic of my room. It is rectangular, 18ft W x 30ft L x 12ft H so 6480^3. It also has stairwells on the right side of the room and an open hall that goes to the kitchen so it’s a pretty big open space. However, the listening area is on the short side on the left end of the room and the MLP is 13ft from the subs. Since I have dual subs already, I am going to stay dual, no going back. I’d like to stay under 2.5k for each sub as I’d like this to be my last purchase (we’ve all said this before) so I don’t have to decide on whether to take the red pill or blue pill again. Future proof so to speak. I would rather have a little to much sub than not enough.....said every bass head ALWAYS! Size wise, I probably can not do the S2 or the 4000. They are pretty deep and I don’t want them sticking out too far into the living room. I have WAF and we are coming up on our 20th anniversary so I would like to make that. She’s a really a good first wife.

So.....which one, JTR or otherwise? I know this is a JTR forum so I expect most of your suggestions to be theirs which I have kind of narrowed down anyway. However, there are many of you that have tried or own other brands, I am open to those as well. Seaton, Rythmic, SVS, PSA?

I’ve had some input already from Mike, Jim and also reached out to Jeff P. If I can beg borrow and steal with regards to my wife, I’m leaning toward the Cap 2400. I was initially going to go the S1 route but having never had a good ported sub I’m inclined to go that direction based on all I have read.

Have I already answered my own question?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Regards

Todd

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post #5930 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by toddct View Post

I’ve had some input already from Mike, Jim and also reached out to Jeff P. If I can beg borrow and steal with regards to my wife, I’m leaning toward the Cap 2400. I was initially going to go the S1 route but having never had a good ported sub I’m inclined to go that direction based on all I have read.

Have I already answered my own question?
Welcome Todd!

2 ported subs at $2500 each budget - 2400ULF Tall is the ticket.

HOWEVER - keep in mind that they are much bigger than your current subs. You may want to mockup some cardboard boxes and see what you think in your space. Also keep in mind that the $2500 each does not include shipping so technically you will be stretching your budget a bit. Finally, seeing as this space appears to be your main family/living room, you may want to consider a premium finish (I would have upgraded the finish on mine if it was in my main living space). Plan ~$3-400 each for upgraded finish.

In summary, dual 2400s with premium finish and shipping would put you in the ~$3000 each - retail price. You should check Jeff for a formal price.

I am a very happy owner of a 2400ULF and it sounds incredible in my 3800 cf space. I suspect duals in your 6500 cf space will sound equally as impressive.

However, your space and MLP are a little unconventional. Your display, speakers and MLP are on the short side with the MLP right up against a wall. I'm not sure how that impacts this decision. Some of the more seasoned members will need to weigh in. You may want to start a new thread asking for options and things to watch out for with a room and MLP like that...
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post #5931 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 01:04 PM
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Some great posts @chucky7 with the graphs from some of the bass monster movies! The New Master List of Bass in Movies thread is such a wonderful thread.

I decided to give Audyysey MultEQ32 another try since I got my room acoustically treated now. I used the Audyssey EQ editor app and I must confess that after I turned off the midrange compensation on each channel and selcted my target curve and did the 8 spot cal, and I must confess I got wonderful results this time! Before it would make it sound like the system had a high end bias or something and sounded thin but I think the room being treated makes MultEQ 32 work better. All I had to do after was change the crossover levels back to 80hz. It put my fronts at 40hz and my surrounds at 60hz. I tried it first that way but it took away some of the awesome midbass from the Caps so I put all channels back to 80 and it sounds incredible. It set the distances exactly what my tape measure reads too and levels were spot on. Im running the subs 3db hot just FYI.

So I use to dog on using Auto EQ's and Audyssey and others. Ive tried Pioneers one before years back with just decent results. I used Onkyo Audyysey MultEQ with not bad results but still better with it off. And before with my current AVR, Denon X6300H, the MultEQ32 didn't give me great results either. But now with the EQ editor app I was really able to have more control over the calibration and target curve etc. then without the app and save different target curves and see the before and after results for each channel with graphs. So Im using Audyysey MutEQ32 engaged now and loving it! Seat to seat variation is even better and bass is tighter. Funny how situations change.

We watched Wall-E last night at 0.0 on the dial and I warned my wife it might get loud. She was game and it was fantastic! Was like watching it for the first time even tho we've seen it tens of times. Just pure, clean, HUGE powerful sound and the bass is just nuts. The rocket launch scene was very intense and the music sounded like we were at the Helzberg Hall Symphony at the KC Performing Arts center lol. Was very fun seeing the reaction from my wife and she was laughing and jumpin and just loving it. It's one of our favorite PIXAR movies. We both really love a good animation and one of my favorite categories of movies cause im a kid a heart lol.

Sorry if Im beating a dead horse but Im just so impressed with the Caps I can't express it enough lol. They are truely stoic in action as properly said by the dude on Data-Bass.com

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Last edited by Reddig; 08-28-2017 at 01:07 PM.
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post #5932 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by schwaggs View Post
Welcome Todd!

2 ported subs at $2500 each budget - 2400ULF Tall is the ticket.

HOWEVER - keep in mind that they are much bigger than your current subs. You may want to mockup some cardboard boxes and see what you think in your space. Also keep in mind that the $2500 each does not include shipping so technically you will be stretching your budget a bit. Finally, seeing as this space appears to be your main family/living room, you may want to consider a premium finish (I would have upgraded the finish on mine if it was in my main living space). Plan ~$3-400 each for upgraded finish.

In summary, dual 2400s with premium finish and shipping would put you in the ~$3000 each - retail price. You should check Jeff for a formal price.

I am a very happy owner of a 2400ULF and it sounds incredible in my 3800 cf space. I suspect duals in your 6500 cf space will sound equally as impressive.

However, your space and MLP are a little unconventional. Your display, speakers and MLP are on the short side with the MLP right up against a wall. I'm not sure how that impacts this decision. Some of the more seasoned members will need to weigh in. You may want to start a new thread asking for options and things to watch out for with a room and MLP like that...
Thanks schwaggs. I’ve been paying attention to your journey and saw you picked one up. Price is just a rough estimate, I’m willing to adjust my budget if need be. Guess I should have said I’d like to stay around 2.5k. I’m totally aware of the size. So if i can’t convince my wife to have 2 enourmous boxes then I may have to drop to the 1400 or S1 with 2 huge boxes. Yes the room is not ideal but not really anything I can do about that. Most of us playing this game make sacrifices on the room. For those that are lucky to have a dedicated theatre.....I’m super jelly. I’d like to get there eventually. I welcome anyone’s advice as far as that is concerned. I have XT32 and it seems to do a pretty good job to my untrained ears. I’ll probably invest in a umik and REW when I make the upgrade.

Todd
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post #5933 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddct View Post
I’ve had some input already from Mike, Jim and also reached out to Jeff P. If I can beg borrow and steal with regards to my wife, I’m leaning toward the Cap 2400. I was initially going to go the S1 route but having never had a good ported sub I’m inclined to go that direction based on all I have read.
The Cap 2400ULF will either be 40" long or 40" tall, so pick your poison.

You should make mock up boxes and put them where they will go and see if they fit between your main speakers and your TV. Ask your wife if she is ok with them. If not, go with a pair of Cap 1400s.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

Last edited by chucky7; 08-28-2017 at 02:12 PM.
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post #5934 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 02:03 PM
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I have a digital code for the Movie "Metallica "Through the Never" available. With glorious DTS-HD Master Audio Sound.



First PM gets it! Good Luck.


Thanks so much for the code!!! When you I seen you post that I had to jump in and reply! I'm a huge fan of Metallica.
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post #5935 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by toddct View Post
Thanks schwaggs. I’ve been paying attention to your journey and saw you picked one up. Price is just a rough estimate, I’m willing to adjust my budget if need be. Guess I should have said I’d like to stay around 2.5k. I’m totally aware of the size. So if i can’t convince my wife to have 2 enourmous boxes then I may have to drop to the 1400 or S1 with 2 huge boxes. Yes the room is not ideal but not really anything I can do about that. Most of us playing this game make sacrifices on the room. For those that are lucky to have a dedicated theatre.....I’m super jelly. I’d like to get there eventually. I welcome anyone’s advice as far as that is concerned. I have XT32 and it seems to do a pretty good job to my untrained ears. I’ll probably invest in a umik and REW when I make the upgrade.

Todd
I would suggest the 2400s and then 1400 next and s1 in that order if you were choosing between those three. I would stick with ported in that large of room 6000cf+.

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post #5936 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 02:16 PM
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Thanks so much for the code!!! When you I seen you post that I had to jump in and reply! I'm a huge fan of Metallica.
No, no....

No self respecting Metallica fan hasn't owned this disk since 2013!

I kid, I kid...

It's so good. I just showed it to a couple of college buddies that were down at my place last weekend. It never fails to impress and the icing on the cake is that they crank out my all time favorite song during the credits to an empty arena. Too good. Man, I wish all my concert disks were 2:35:1...
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post #5937 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
The Cap 2400ULF will either be 40" long or 40" tall, so pick your poison.

You should make mock up boxes and put them where they will go and see if they fit between your main speakers and your TV. Ask your wife if she is ok with them. If not, go with a pair of Cap 1400s.
Thanks Chucky. They will fit horizontally and I’ve got 40 inches vertically........for sub space that is! It comes down to the wife as per usual. Cap 1400 is in the runnning.

Todd
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post #5938 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 02:29 PM
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I would suggest the 2400s and then 1400 next and s1 in that order if you were choosing between those three. I would stick with ported in that large of room 6000cf+.
Thanks Bscool! Duly noted!

Todd
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post #5939 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 02:49 PM
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Thanks Chucky. They will fit horizontally and I’ve got 40 inches vertically........for sub space that is! It comes down to the wife as per usual. Cap 1400 is in the runnning.

Todd

Data-Bass hasn't tested the SB16, but here is a comparison of the SB13 to a 1400. It would take a "bunch" of SB13s to equal one 1400 in the lower frequencies. It's not a "fair" comparison, I'm just trying to give you an idea of the performance gain you could expect from going ported and to a larger driver.

+16.5 db @ 20 hz
+10.6 db @ 31.5 hz
+9.7 db @ 40 hz
+8.5 @ 50 hz
+5.6 db @ 63 hz
+3.7 db @ 80 hz

1400 = blue
SB13 = purple


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post #5940 of 12685 Old 08-28-2017, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by toddct View Post
Thanks schwaggs. I’ve been paying attention to your journey and saw you picked one up. Price is just a rough estimate, I’m willing to adjust my budget if need be. Guess I should have said I’d like to stay around 2.5k. I’m totally aware of the size. So if i can’t convince my wife to have 2 enourmous boxes then I may have to drop to the 1400 or S1 with 2 huge boxes. Yes the room is not ideal but not really anything I can do about that. Most of us playing this game make sacrifices on the room. For those that are lucky to have a dedicated theatre.....I’m super jelly. I’d like to get there eventually. I welcome anyone’s advice as far as that is concerned. I have XT32 and it seems to do a pretty good job to my untrained ears. I’ll probably invest in a umik and REW when I make the upgrade.

Todd
Oh, I totally get, not everyone has total flexibility on MLP and speaker placement. I do not either. I have a good listening position but my room is almost square (not ideal) and my desire for a nice looking theater space will only allow one subwoofer placement location. We all make do with what we have!

The thing I am questioning is does having your MLP at the boundary of the room (backed up against the wall in your case) push the equation to sealed of ported sounding better? Does the fact that your MLP is only 13' from your subs in such a large room impact the decision? Does the fact that your subs and MLP are on one end of the long side impact the decision? These variables all have an impact on sound quality.

Have you played with REW? It has a room simulator that could help you estimate your frequency response by plugging in all your room dimensions, placing your subs in the room and marking the MLP. It isn't 100% accurate but it might help you see something you have not considered. It did predict the large 32hz peak of my room.
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