Official JTR Speakers Subwoofer Thread - Page 230 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6871 of 12682 Old 12-04-2017, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by serith View Post
yes, syracuse here! hah, what's up neighbor? lol

would love to hear it, just say when. i work mon-fri 9-5, free after work pretty much any time.
I'm pretty tied up during the week with work, wife, kids, coaching wrestling, BJJ, etc...

I'm happy to have you over on the weekend to check out the Cap 1400. It's in a big open area, with a lot of cubic feet to fill, but still does an outstanding job. Can lights have popped out of the ceiling and pictures and paintings are all askew. Bring over anything you'd like to hear specifically. I have WOTW, Wonder Woman, and quite a bit of other demo stuff that'll help show off the capabilities as well.

PM inbound.
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post #6872 of 12682 Old 12-05-2017, 09:58 AM
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i just wanted to take a moment and thank everyone here on this thread for helping me decide which way to go with this purchase. i know i didn't get a chance to listen to a jtr sub in person (i really appreciate the offer @irishluck73 ), but i ended up going with a pair of fv25's--which someone a few pages back suspected would happen. i'm naturally a little biased as i've been using rythmik subs for the past couple of years. it's probably the equivalent to owning a honda and really enjoying it, and then one day when you are ready to upgrade you get to decide between an acura or a lexus--something like that anyway. i bet your decision is naturally biased towards what you are used to, so long as you enjoyed it--which i very much did!

also, thanks to everyone for talking me off the dual cap 4000 ledge. maybe one day when i have a larger room in a different house! i know i would have been very happy with the 2400's. to anyone reading this and unsure themselves i don't think you can go wrong with any of these high end internet direct sub offerings.

i will post some updates when they arrive over on the rythmik thread if anyone from here is interested. i know plenty of you guys on here live in both threads but thought i'd mention it.
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post #6873 of 12682 Old 12-05-2017, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by serith View Post
i wish someone near me had a jtr sub i could listen to, might make this easier :/
Hiya, as this is a critical (and expensive) purchase, may I suggest speaking with Jeff and arrange for a listening audition of their subs. The cost of a flight would be money well spent as you'll hear the subs for yourself and eliminate any chance of buyers remorse and you'll also never have to look back and say "What if".


You'll actually hear dual 4000/2400/S2's and be able to make a 100% informed decision about the purchase, all while having someone there to answers questions asap.


If I were considering dropping 6K+ on dual Cap 4000 that would be my game plan.
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post #6874 of 12682 Old 12-05-2017, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Lorderl View Post
Hiya, as this is a critical (and expensive) purchase, may I suggest speaking with Jeff and arrange for a listening audition of their subs. The cost of a flight would be money well spent as you'll hear the subs for yourself and eliminate any chance of buyers remorse and you'll also never have to look back and say "What if".


You'll actually hear dual 4000/2400/S2's and be able to make a 100% informed decision about the purchase, all while having someone there to answers questions asap.


If I were considering dropping 6K+ on dual Cap 4000 that would be my game plan.

dual 4000 in my sub 2000^3 room would have been nightmarish overkill, as i'm now realizing. there were many variables that went into my decision including familiarity with rythmik, reviews, measurements, cost, etc. i don't want to be responsible for starting drama or conflict so i don't think i'll talk about this anymore on this thread. i would have been just as happy with a pair of ulf monsters as i am right now having purchased the dual 15's from rythmik last night. we all have the sickness, and there are different ways to cure it is all.


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post #6875 of 12682 Old 12-05-2017, 11:28 AM
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serith

You really should still check out irishluck73's Cap 1400.

Listening to all the top offerings form the ID sub companies at Marc's place was an eye opening experience for me.

Rather than knowing "they all sound good", (which they do, BTW), now I know what I want from my subs, and the sound signature of the 18" subs I heard.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

Last edited by chucky7; 12-05-2017 at 11:33 AM.
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post #6876 of 12682 Old 12-05-2017, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Lorderl View Post
Hiya, as this is a critical (and expensive) purchase, may I suggest speaking with Jeff and arrange for a listening audition of their subs. The cost of a flight would be money well spent as you'll hear the subs for yourself and eliminate any chance of buyers remorse and you'll also never have to look back and say "What if".


You'll actually hear dual 4000/2400/S2's and be able to make a 100% informed decision about the purchase, all while having someone there to answers questions asap.


If I were considering dropping 6K+ on dual Cap 4000 that would be my game plan.

What's the address for their demo showroom?
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post #6877 of 12682 Old 12-05-2017, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Kimwyn View Post
What's the address for their demo showroom?
I've no idea, though I thought I recalled reading a post were someone auditioned their subs at their manf. location.


If I'm wrong about this someone please correct me. I did mention contacting Jeff first as OP would have learned if it was possible.
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post #6878 of 12682 Old 12-05-2017, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Kimwyn View Post
What's the address for their demo showroom?
It's at JTR in Union Grove WI. Call or e-mail Jeff to find out.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

Last edited by chucky7; 12-05-2017 at 01:15 PM.
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post #6879 of 12682 Old 12-05-2017, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
serith

You really should still check out irishluck73's Cap 1400.

Listening to all the top offerings form the ID sub companies at Marc's place was an eye opening experience for me.

Rather than knowing "they all sound good", (which they do, BTW), now I know what I want from my subs, and the sound signature of the 18" subs I heard.
It's always cool to hear other systems. With these top flight subs you are really listening to the room just as much as the components.

If you do like the extra TR of the JTR (for example) there are some things we can tweak to your taste. See you in the Rythmik thread!
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post #6880 of 12682 Old 12-05-2017, 02:10 PM
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post #6881 of 12682 Old 12-06-2017, 06:09 AM
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Based on all that has transpired on here on this thread over the past couple weeks I think I have a pretty decent question to ask. Similar to serith, I was thinking of dual 4000s for a 1900 ft^3 room but after all the relevant, pertinent and substantial information posted by numerous valued members (Jeff included), I have talked myself out of that “disaster”. But, with that being said, I am pretty sure I will go with the 2400 and here goes my question. I currently have the 2 HSU ULS-15s (sealed subs) and know the world of difference between those and the 2400, BUT, I was thinking of getting one single 2400 (to handle the ULF) and placing the 2 ULS-15s directly and immediately behind my MLP to give that extra punch to the higher frequencies (30-80Hz range). What are your thoughts about this concept and what I am potentially trying to achieve?
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post #6882 of 12682 Old 12-06-2017, 07:06 AM
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Hi tori,

Great read. Lots of valuable and education BASS material here. Excellent post for this thread. Thanks for the link.

@cannga consider adding this reading link to the First page(s) for future reference.

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post #6883 of 12682 Old 12-06-2017, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Kimwyn View Post
Based on all that has transpired on here on this thread over the past couple weeks I think I have a pretty decent question to ask. Similar to serith, I was thinking of dual 4000s for a 1900 ft^3 room but after all the relevant, pertinent and substantial information posted by numerous valued members (Jeff included), I have talked myself out of that “disaster”. But, with that being said, I am pretty sure I will go with the 2400 and here goes my question. I currently have the 2 HSU ULS-15s (sealed subs) and know the world of difference between those and the 2400, BUT, I was thinking of getting one single 2400 (to handle the ULF) and placing the 2 ULS-15s directly and immediately behind my MLP to give that extra punch to the higher frequencies (30-80Hz range). What are your thoughts about this concept and what I am potentially trying to achieve?
I've no experience with it myself but I've read that intergrating sealed and ported subs together can be difficult. How about the S1? Specs listed it goes below 10hz in-room. IIRC @chucky7 posted a chart with its stats. I'm sure others will post with more detailed info for you.
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post #6884 of 12682 Old 12-06-2017, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Kimwyn View Post
Based on all that has transpired on here on this thread over the past couple weeks I think I have a pretty decent question to ask. Similar to serith, I was thinking of dual 4000s for a 1900 ft^3 room but after all the relevant, pertinent and substantial information posted by numerous valued members (Jeff included), I have talked myself out of that “disaster”. But, with that being said, I am pretty sure I will go with the 2400 and here goes my question. I currently have the 2 HSU ULS-15s (sealed subs) and know the world of difference between those and the 2400, BUT, I was thinking of getting one single 2400 (to handle the ULF) and placing the 2 ULS-15s directly and immediately behind my MLP to give that extra punch to the higher frequencies (30-80Hz range). What are your thoughts about this concept and what I am potentially trying to achieve?
Output comparison between your Hsu ULS-15s (assuming they are MK2s), 2400ULF and 4000ULF.



I wouldn't call it a disaster, per se. It really depends on your room. Serith's room is in the basement on concrete slap and he wants ULF from flagship products. Hence my suggestion to go all the way!

Is your room on a suspended wooden floor? Generally, it is not a good idea to mix sealed and ported subs because it is extremely difficult to dial them in, phase wise. At the minimum, you would need to be very familiar with REW and possess some kind of multi-sub software, IMHO.
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post #6885 of 12682 Old 12-06-2017, 09:45 AM
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The room is similar to serith and it's on concrete with concrete walls. The main reason I asked this is because as opposed to trying to sell the ULS or just getting rid of them or having to buy an additional 2400, I was thinking of combining them. I've used REW before but I'm far from a pro and that was about 6 years ago so I don't even know if it has changed. Does Audyssey XT32 qualify as a multi sub software because that's all I will have.
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post #6886 of 12682 Old 12-06-2017, 10:28 AM
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Does Audyssey XT32 qualify as a multi sub software because that's all I will have.
It helps a little, but you'll at the very least need measuring gear to confirm results and adjust the sub distances/delay to optimize the results. This is the case period though with audyssey. It never gets the sub distances correct and always requires further optimization.
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post #6887 of 12682 Old 12-06-2017, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
serith

You really should still check out irishluck73's Cap 1400.
Open invite, he's 30 minutes away, and he has my email address.
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post #6888 of 12682 Old 12-06-2017, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Kimwyn View Post
The room is similar to serith and it's on concrete with concrete walls. The main reason I asked this is because as opposed to trying to sell the ULS or just getting rid of them or having to buy an additional 2400, I was thinking of combining them. I've used REW before but I'm far from a pro and that was about 6 years ago so I don't even know if it has changed. Does Audyssey XT32 qualify as a multi sub software because that's all I will have.
To dial in your sealed subs with a ported one, you would need the measurement mic, the MiniDSP which allows you to use a free multi-sub software plug in.

Then again, not everyone can hang drywall when they are provided with drywall panels, screws and power tools.

I really think you should stick with sealed... or start anew with ported.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #6889 of 12682 Old 12-06-2017, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
To dial in your sealed subs with a ported one, you would need the measurement mic, the MiniDSP which allows you to use a free multi-sub software plug in.

Then again, not everyone can hang drywall when they are provided with drywall panels, screws and power tools.

I really think you should stick with sealed... or start anew with ported.
The problem all has to do with phase shift at the port tuning. With the 2400 having such a low tuning, it may not be a huge issue at all honestly. If it turns out there is a problem, a simple outboard minidsp could then be incorporated to assist in filtering the subs to their own operating ranges. I am doing just this currently with a ported sub operation from 100hz down to 20hz where I High Pass it, then low pass my sealed subs to only operate from 20hz and down. 18dB butterworth worked wonderfully and you cant even see the crossover point it's so smooth. For nearfield, this way seems to blend the most seamlessly at least in my own setup. I've learned the ULF is about all you really want directly behind out. As much fun as 55hz pounding you to death is, it's not practical and it takes away from the excellent image and smooth response you should already be getting from your big boy subs.

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post #6890 of 12682 Old 12-06-2017, 12:08 PM
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The problem all has to do with phase shift at the port tuning. With the 2400 having such a low tuning, it may not be a huge issue at all honestly. If it turns out there is a problem, a simple outboard minidsp could then be incorporated to assist in filtering the subs to their own operating ranges. I am doing just this currently with a ported sub operation from 100hz down to 20hz where I High Pass it, then low pass my sealed subs to only operate from 20hz and down. 18dB butterworth worked wonderfully and you cant even see the crossover point it's so smooth. For nearfield, this way seems to blend the most seamlessly at least in my own setup. I've learned the ULF is about all you really want directly behind out. As much fun as 55hz pounding you to death is, it's not practical and it takes away from the excellent image and smooth response you should already be getting from your big boy subs.
The problem is... because you are a DIYer, doing the PEQ, HPF or LPF on a dedicated amp and using minidsp is second nature to you. It may not be so for Kimwyn. Heck, I don't even know how many in the sub forum alone are afraid to even try REW...

The 2400ULF is tuned to 14Hz. If Kimwyn low pass his Hsu ULS-15 MK2s to only operate from 14Hz and down, he might as well sell them. Just my 2 cents

How about High Pass the HLS-15MK2s to above 2400ULF's tuning frequency so that all the subs are never out of phase? I may not know what I am talking about...
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Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #6891 of 12682 Old 12-06-2017, 12:31 PM
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chucky, you have it so right. Not only am I a novice at using REW, I am also overwhelmed by undertaking the project of trying to integrate a minidsp into my system as well. I remember it so well, using REW would take me hours a day. moving around the subs, recording measurements, then moving the subs again. It was all a lot of work, which at the time I enjoyed (I was around 25-26 yrs old) but now I simply don't have the time for (34 yrs old with wife and kids). So I honestly would just like to buy a sub (or a pair), drop them in a spot and run XT32. I could possibly use REW again, but it most definitely isn't anything I would be looking forward to doing.
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post #6892 of 12682 Old 12-06-2017, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
The problem is... because you are a DIYer, doing the PEQ, HPF or LPF on a dedicated amp and using minidsp is second nature to you. It may not be so for Kimwyn. Heck, I don't even know how many in the sub forum alone are afraid to even try REW...

The 2400ULF is tuned to 14Hz. If Kimwyn low pass his Hsu ULS-15 MK2s to only operate from 14Hz and down, he might as well sell them. Just my 2 cents

How about High Pass the HLS-15MK2s to above 2400ULF's tuning frequency so that all the subs are never out of phase? I may not know what I am talking about...
You make good points. I assume too quickly when folks are doing these types of upgrades, the extra $100 and time spent learning just enough audio optimization technique is par for the course...

Your highpassing option won't exactly work as creating the filters also introduces phase shift just like the tuning of a sub box. I guess one thing to just try is putting them all together, using the mk2's as nearfield and just see what happens. It very well may work out just fine. If it doesn't, you could sell the mk2's and scoop another 2400. Im always a proponent of multiple subs, and whatever it takes to get there. you smooth room modes out, optimize over a wider listening area, and add more headroom and gas in the tank. It's never a bad idea.... ever.
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post #6893 of 12682 Old 12-06-2017, 02:03 PM
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chucky, you have it so right. Not only am I a novice at using REW, I am also overwhelmed by undertaking the project of trying to integrate a minidsp into my system as well. I remember it so well, using REW would take me hours a day. moving around the subs, recording measurements, then moving the subs again. It was all a lot of work, which at the time I enjoyed (I was around 25-26 yrs old) but now I simply don't have the time for (34 yrs old with wife and kids). So I honestly would just like to buy a sub (or a pair), drop them in a spot and run XT32. I could possibly use REW again, but it most definitely isn't anything I would be looking forward to doing.
Using REW nowadays is much easier than say 8 years ago, especially if you have a laptop and HDMI. Regardless of sealed or ported sub(s) to get, you should use REW to figure out the best spots for your subs anyways. This is only to make sure that you get the most ( output and FR ) out of your hard earned money.

Now, of course you don't need to use REW to fully enjoy your subs. Many here don't use it and they are still blown away by JTR's performance. I moved the Cap 1400 to its current location after I started using the REW. I am actually more satisfied with the TR and port wind with the sub at its old location just because it is closer to the MLP.

You really shouldn't trust strangers on the Internet more than your ears and your gut!

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

Last edited by chucky7; 12-06-2017 at 02:07 PM.
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post #6894 of 12682 Old 12-06-2017, 03:40 PM
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I read in one of the posts that the Cap 1400 now sounds even better and I also see "2017" version posted around. I see on the Cap 1400 webpage that its had a number of changes/improvements.


Any chance to get the latest FR db figures? Not expecting this new "2017" to be sent to DataBase for testing. Any detailed info on performance would be nice to see.


Thxs

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post #6895 of 12682 Old 12-06-2017, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Lorderl View Post
I read in one of the posts that the Cap 1400 now sounds even better and I also see "2017" version posted around. I see on the Cap 1400 webpage that its had a number of changes/improvements.

Any chance to get the latest FR db figures? Not expecting this new "2017" to be sent to DataBase for testing. Any detailed info on performance would be nice to see.

Thxs
It should be along the line like below:



The LF adjust is different between the 2015 Cap 1400 on data-bass and the 2017 version.

For the 2015 LF Adjust, 12 o'clock = flat outdoors, minimum (Cut) = -6dB and maximum (Boost) = +6dB

For the 2017 LF Adjust, Maximum (Boost) = flat outdoors, minimum (Cut) = -6dB and 12 o'clock = -3dB -- maybe Jeff can chime in on this...

Therefore, the 2017 Cap 1400 FR with LF Adjust at Maximum should be similar with the FR you see on data-bass.


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Last edited by chucky7; 12-06-2017 at 04:25 PM.
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post #6896 of 12682 Old 12-07-2017, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Kimwyn View Post
chucky, you have it so right. Not only am I a novice at using REW, I am also overwhelmed by undertaking the project of trying to integrate a minidsp into my system as well. I remember it so well, using REW would take me hours a day. moving around the subs, recording measurements, then moving the subs again. It was all a lot of work, which at the time I enjoyed (I was around 25-26 yrs old) but now I simply don't have the time for (34 yrs old with wife and kids). So I honestly would just like to buy a sub (or a pair), drop them in a spot and run XT32. I could possibly use REW again, but it most definitely isn't anything I would be looking forward to doing.
Hi,

I'm going to take a little different approach to your question. I think that out-of-phase issues can occur even with the same type of subs, based on room placement. When you mix subs with a differently shaped frequency response, due to both ported/sealed differences, and due to overall output capabilities, you may actually get some peaks/cancellations at frequencies where you wouldn't have had them otherwise.

Simply placing the same model subs in various locations in a room can have unpredictable results. Placing extremely dissimilar subs in a room just increases the unpredictability. That's why people are recommending measuring and being able to add some outboard DSP, if necessary.

My own perspective on this is that a single Cap 2400 will be so much more powerful than the dual HSU subs, that you may not notice them much. And, even if you stack them, their SPL will drop like a rock under 40Hz, compared to the 2400. XT-32 will not be your friend, in this case, because if you calibrate with all three subs in your system, Audyssey will stop EQing where the combined SPL of the subs drops by 3db. That means that you won't have any EQ below about 40Hz. And, you may really want to EQ the 2400 down to the bottom of its frequency response.

If I didn't want to invest a lot of time in this exercise (and perhaps even if I did) here is what I would do. First, I would set-up just the Cap 2400 and run an Audyssey calibration. Then, I would add a sub boost, play with the Low Frequency adjustment, and the other normal settings, and get used to the completely different magnitude of bass and tactile sensations that the Cap 2400 provides. I doubt that you can visualize the difference simply by reading other posts.

Once you have lived with the Cap 2400 for a few days, and have gotten used to it, if you are still curious, you can try adding in the dual HSU's to see if they add anything at all. I think it is likely that you won't even notice that they are playing, unless they cause some audible problems. There is that much difference in the Cap 2400's output at low frequencies. And, that is why I recommend that you get used to the Cap 2400 first, so that you will notice if they add something, or subtract something to your overall sound quality or bass experience.

When you do add them, don't run Audyssey again for the reason I mentioned earlier. You still want XT-32 to EQ your low frequencies. Just use Y-connectors (you will need two) to add them to the same sub out that your Cap 2400 is using. If you do it that way, Audyssey won't even know you have added them, whereas if you add them with the other sub out, Audyssey will invalidate your calibration and you will have to start over.

You can certainly approach this in a different way if you want to, but I think that this would be the best and easiest way to do this. It is the method that most people have found most effective when adding a ported mid-bass module to a full-range system. And, that is essentially what you are trying to do here, only with sealed subs instead.

I think that if you get used to the sound and feel of the Cap 2400 first, you will be in a much better position to decide by ear and by tactile sensation whether the dual HSU's still add anything positive to your audio system or not. If they do, you are ahead of the game. If they don't, you can decide where to go from there--either selling them, or investing more time (and a little expense) in measuring your frequency response and then in properly integrating them.

I hope this helps!

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

Last edited by mthomas47; 12-07-2017 at 05:53 AM.
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post #6897 of 12682 Old 12-07-2017, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Marc Alexander View Post
I can't believe you got that sub into a CAR!

I recommend trying the SVS sub nearfield directly behind the MLP. Should be the perfect complement to the S2 and help prevent the SVS from running out of steam trying to keep up.
This was a AWESOME recommendation... My dual sb-2000's behind the listening positions provides so much tactile punch.. they truly are the perfect compliment back there working with the S2.. watching John Wick, we are repeatedly genuinely startled by gun shots... *Win*. I think to myself where has this nearfield been all my life? Oh yeah.. this is my first home theater build.. but still where has it been all my life?

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post #6898 of 12682 Old 12-07-2017, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

I'm going to take a little different approach to your question. I think that out-of-phase issues can occur even with the same type of subs, based on room placement. When you mix subs with a differently shaped frequency response, due to both ported/sealed differences, and due to overall output capabilities, you may actually get some peaks/cancellations at frequencies where you wouldn't have had them otherwise.

Simply placing the same model subs in various locations in a room can have unpredictable results. Placing extremely dissimilar subs in a room just increases the unpredictability. That's why people are recommending measuring and being able to add some outboard DSP, if necessary.

My own perspective on this is that a single Cap 2400 will be so much more powerful than the dual HSU subs, that you may not notice them much. And, even if you stack them, their SPL will drop like a rock under 40Hz, compared to the 2400. XT-32 will not be your friend, in this case, because if you calibrate with all three subs in your system, Audyssey will stop EQing where the combined SPL of the subs drops by 3db. That means that you won't have any EQ below about 40Hz. And, you may really want to EQ the 2400 down to the bottom of its frequency response.

If I didn't want to invest a lot of time in this exercise (and perhaps even if I did) here is what I would do. First, I would set-up just the Cap 2400 and run an Audyssey calibration. Then, I would add a sub boost, play with the Low Frequency adjustment, and the other normal settings, and get used to the completely different magnitude of bass and tactile sensations that the Cap 2400 provides. I doubt that you can visualize the difference simply by reading other posts.

Once you have lived with the Cap 2400 for a few days, and have gotten used to it, if you are still curious, you can try adding in the dual HSU's to see if they add anything at all. I think it is likely that you won't even notice that they are playing, unless they cause some audible problems. There is that much difference in the Cap 2400's output at low frequencies. And, that is why I recommend that you get used to the Cap 2400 first, so that you will notice if they add something, or subtract something to your overall sound quality or bass experience.

When you do add them, don't run Audyssey again for the reason I mentioned earlier. You still want XT-32 to EQ your low frequencies. Just use Y-connectors (you will need two) to add them to the same sub out that your Cap 2400 is using. If you do it that way, Audyssey won't even know you have added them, whereas if you add them with the other sub out, Audyssey will invalidate your calibration and you will have to start over.

You can certainly approach this in a different way if you want to, but I think that this would be the best and easiest way to do this. It is the method that most people have found most effective when adding a ported mid-bass module to a full-range system. And, that is essentially what you are trying to do here, only with sealed subs instead.

I think that if you get used to the sound and feel of the Cap 2400 first, you will be in a much better position to decide by ear and by tactile sensation whether the dual HSU's still add anything positive to your audio system or not. If they do, you are ahead of the game. If they don't, you can decide where to go from there--either selling them, or investing more time (and a little expense) in measuring your frequency response and then in properly integrating them.

I hope this helps!

Regards,
Mike

Thank you immensely for your well detailed and thought out opinion. It appears from numerous recounts that the ULS isn't in the same stratosphere as the 2400. I think I will need to take a trip to JTR.
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post #6899 of 12682 Old 12-07-2017, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post
I'll pm you right now.
Hi Jeff,

I wonder if there are still some gremlins in the communication channels? I received your PM sent on Dec 1st and replied with a detailed PM outlining my thoughts the following day. If you have sent any further communication I haven't received it.

If it's simply a case of you being very busy then forgive my impatience. I just didn't wish to keep quiet at my end if there was still any chance there were issues with receiving each others messages.

I look forward to hearing from you.
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post #6900 of 12682 Old 12-07-2017, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Kimwyn View Post
Thank you immensely for your well detailed and thought out opinion. It appears from numerous recounts that the ULS isn't in the same stratosphere as the 2400. I think I will need to take a trip to JTR.
I suggest you apply Michael's advice in regards to Audyssey. I recommend you do try the same as @JosephOfGary … place the ULSs directly behind the LP nearfield. The all ported or sealed applies loosely (if at all) when it comes to nearfield. 
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