Official JTR Speakers Subwoofer Thread - Page 239 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #7141 of 12964 Old 01-21-2018, 08:45 AM
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To those who haven't heard from Jeff, here's a data point. I sent him an email with questions last Sunday. By Tuesday impatience got the better of me and I used the web site request form to order a pair of Single 8HT-LP. The next day he emailed me a quote at 10pm his time! I immediately wrote back that I wanted to go ahead with the order, but I didn't hear back until two days later. He apologized for the delay and said he'll take my card info on Monday.

From this, I might hazard a few guesses:

  1. He has an enormous backlog of correspondence.
  2. He's prioritizing fulfilling orders above answering questions.
  3. He usually puts out a January update, discussing changes to the JTR line. We haven't seen that this year, and it might be occupying some of his time.
  4. It's a small operation and he is burning the midnight oil to get all this done. Be patient and I'm sure he'll get around to everyone!
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post #7142 of 12964 Old 01-21-2018, 08:53 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tebling View Post
To those who haven't heard from Jeff, here's a data point. I sent him an email with questions last Sunday. By Tuesday impatience got the better of me and I used the web site request form to order a pair of Single 8HT-LP. The next day he emailed me a quote at 10pm his time! I immediately wrote back that I wanted to go ahead with the order, but I didn't hear back until two days later. He apologized for the delay and said he'll take my card info on Monday.

From this, I might hazard a few guesses:

  1. He has an enormous backlog of correspondence.
  2. He's prioritizing fulfilling orders above answering questions.
  3. He usually puts out a January update, discussing changes to the JTR line. We haven't seen that this year, and it might be occupying some of his time.
  4. It's a small operation and he is burning the midnight oil to get all this done. Be patient and I'm sure he'll get around to everyone!
I don't disagree w/ anything you said above, but a simple jump into this thread from Jeff stating any and all issues/updates goes along way w/ potential buyers and doesn't leave anything to the imagination.
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post #7143 of 12964 Old 01-21-2018, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by tebling View Post
To those who haven't heard from Jeff, here's a data point. I sent him an email with questions last Sunday. By Tuesday impatience got the better of me and I used the web site request form to order a pair of Single 8HT-LP. The next day he emailed me a quote at 10pm his time! I immediately wrote back that I wanted to go ahead with the order, but I didn't hear back until two days later. He apologized for the delay and said he'll take my card info on Monday.

From this, I might hazard a few guesses:

  1. He has an enormous backlog of correspondence.
  2. He's prioritizing fulfilling orders above answering questions.
  3. He usually puts out a January update, discussing changes to the JTR line. We haven't seen that this year, and it might be occupying some of his time.
  4. It's a small operation and he is burning the midnight oil to get all this done. Be patient and I'm sure he'll get around to everyone!
On Dec 30 he emailed me to tell me he would send me a quote. Haven't heard from him since. To add to my frustration, he knows my only sub died. I thought he would put a bit more effort into taking care of a customer with a faulty product, but I was wrong.

3 weeks of contacting him every way possible (phone, email, PM, web site) with no response. A simple message on the site or FB could have saved me a great deal of time and frustration. The way I see it, he doesn't want my business.
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post #7144 of 12964 Old 01-21-2018, 10:44 AM
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Talking

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Originally Posted by JudasKiss View Post
Hi ,

I was wondering in what situations would a person choose a Cap 1400 and when a Cap S1 , and 2400 are all within $500 of each other?

What made you make that decision ?


I am trying to choose between a number of subs on the short list, so far I have :

JTR S1 (or perhaps another JTR if some can explain reasons for choosing a 2400 ?
Rhythmic FV18,
Seaton F18+ (or one of the other 2 Seaton's, as I am not sure exactly how they would differ SubMersive HP+ , F2+ ) ?

I have a 1700 cubic foot room, and would like to keep it to one sub and costs closer to $2000 rather than 3K but am open to idea's , to make this the last sub I will need to buy for a decade or hopefully ever.
Hi - that’s a great question and l am sure there are much more knowledgeable people on this thread that can answer your question comparing ported vs sealed. I am a HT enthusiast, but my knowledge of bass products (output, graphs, spl, etc.) is very limited. To be honest, I based my purchase decision on reading this forum among others, the databass review, along with talking to different ID sub manufacturers. I am coming from a ported sub, the HSU VTF 15H, so ported is what I know. To be honest, I purchased during the JTR Black Friday sale which made the Cap 1400 quite a bit more affordable than the Cap 2400.
I used the savings to fund the real wood veneer upgrade.

Honestly I don’t think you could go wrong with any of the subs you’re looking at. JTR just seemed like the right choice for me at the time. I’ll let you know my impressions of the Cap 1400when it arrives tomorrow.
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post #7145 of 12964 Old 01-21-2018, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Adamg (Ret-Navy) View Post
+++^^^^^^^+++ @mthomas47

Mike, just love to read your helpful posts. Always illuminating and superbly crafted to directly answer the Op's questions. BZ my Friend.

On a different note (pun intended). Watched Bladerunner 2049 UHD with Dolby Atmos. This soundtrack is incredible and full of precise and actively beautiful sound throughtout the presentation. Reference Quality Atmos track of the Year. I won't rate the Movie as that is not what this post is about. The Sound Watson, the Sound! Five Star Dolby Atmos Track *****. Precious few of these have been given by me.

The Bass: Ok, first let me say, the Atmos Track has gobs and gobs of mezmerizing and pressureizing Bass. While not on the extreme deep side (<18Hz) the Bass that was present was eye watering. Within the first 5 Mins of the Movie I had to dial things back. Dropped the Audyssey Reference Level Offset to -5, reduced the Sub trims by an additional - 4dbs and the room was still shaking, rumbling, creaking, goraning and Oh My so alive with penetrating and life changing deep bass. So many Sceens to meantion that I lost track. The overall majority of bass depth I recorded using "VibSensor" on my Iphone was in the 30-38Hz range. So most any worthy Sub, can hit these notes solidly.

This Movie was insane and a thrill ride from start to finish. I put this Atmos soundtrack up against Mad Max catagory. The Dragons fed well last night, and for the first time I even think their heart rates got slightly elevated by the workout they recieved. So if you don't yet have this Flick, I highly recommend you get it! Its not one to pass by if your a true Bassaholic.
Hi Adam,

Thank you for the compliment and the kind words! It's always nice to hear from a friend.

I enjoyed your review of the new Blade Runner movie. That's one I have been saving for a special occasion, but reading about your experience with the bass, I have even more reason to look froward to it. I particularly liked your phrase "The Sound Watson, the Sound!" In retrospect, I suppose that's elementary.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #7146 of 12964 Old 01-21-2018, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tebling View Post
To those who haven't heard from Jeff, here's a data point. I sent him an email with questions last Sunday. By Tuesday impatience got the better of me and I used the web site request form to order a pair of Single 8HT-LP. The next day he emailed me a quote at 10pm his time! I immediately wrote back that I wanted to go ahead with the order, but I didn't hear back until two days later. He apologized for the delay and said he'll take my card info on Monday.

From this, I might hazard a few guesses:

  1. He has an enormous backlog of correspondence.
  2. He's prioritizing fulfilling orders above answering questions.
  3. He usually puts out a January update, discussing changes to the JTR line. We haven't seen that this year, and it might be occupying some of his time.
  4. It's a small operation and he is burning the midnight oil to get all this done. Be patient and I'm sure he'll get around to everyone!
I had a similar experience. I emailed Jeff Jan 10th about purchasing another 118HT and didn't get a reply, so on the 16th I emailed him through his website and then I received a reply on the 18th and another reply yesterday. So Jeff is around and responding, but I guess it is taking him some time to get back to everyone. But I agree it would be nice to see a post from him that says he's busy but will get back with everyone as soon as he can.

Jack
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post #7147 of 12964 Old 01-21-2018, 12:38 PM
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Can you guys give me a sense of how the Captivator 2400ULF would compare to my existing Captivator S2? Jeff has not tested the 2400 on Data-bass.com yet.

A few questions below: (All my speakers are sealed.)

1.) Will it be difficult to blend ported subs with my sealed speakers?
2.) I have heard not to mix sealed subs and ported. If I keep my S1 and S2 and add two 2400 ULF (to replace my two Seaton Submersives) on the side walls will this be difficult to blend?

7.4.6 system: Processors:Marantz 8805 || Xilica XP4080 Amps: Parasound A31 and ATI AT528NC & AT526NC n-core ||Speakers: Procella P8 LCR, Procella P5 for surround & ceiling
Subs: JTR Captivator S2, JTR Captivator S1, 2 Seaton Submersive (dual 15")
Screen: 2.40:1 Seymour XD Acoustically Transparent, 128" diagonal / 118" wide || Projector: JVC X570/RS420
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post #7148 of 12964 Old 01-21-2018, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by farsider3000 View Post
Can you guys give me a sense of how the Captivator 2400ULF would compare to my existing Captivator S2? Jeff has not tested the 2400 on Data-bass.com yet.

A few questions below: (All my speakers are sealed.)

1.) Will it be difficult to blend ported subs with my sealed speakers?
2.) I have heard not to mix sealed subs and ported. If I keep my S1 and S2 and add two 2400 ULF (to replace my two Seaton Submersives) on the side walls will this be difficult to blend?
Hi,

I went back to look at your first posts, asking about replacing your Submersives with S2's. Nowhere in your posts have you mentioned what it is you are trying to accomplish with the various upgrade options. I think that without some clearer understanding of your goals the discussion will be completely random. Do you want to have the rougher and more overt tactile response of ported subs? Do you want more headroom in a particular part of the frequency range? Are you pushing your current subs right to their limits? Without knowing more, it's hard to know what to say.

The first page of this thread has a table that Chucky made which illustrates the max outputs of the various JTR subs. The information on the Cap 2400 comes from Jeff, but his numbers normally correspond quite closely to the Data-Bass numbers. It can be extremely difficult to integrate ported and sealed subs, since their inherent FR is quite different. Throw in the fact that you are limited in your placement options, and I don't think it's a very good idea. I especially wouldn't recommend going down that path, unless there were some specific objective you were trying to accomplish, that you don't believe you can achieve with sealed subs.

Multiple S2's are going to give you a ton of output, and depending on your room size, which you haven't specified, you may also get plenty of low-frequency extension. Absent a really good reason to the contrary, I would recommend either going all ported or all sealed. An example of a good exception to that might be a nearfield ported mid-bass module (with a bandwidth-limited FR) in a system consisting of sealed subs.

But, mixing full-range ported and full-range sealed subs is a different kind of challenge, and one I wouldn't tackle without REW, a miniDSP, and a pretty darn good reason to do it in the first place.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #7149 of 12964 Old 01-21-2018, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

I went back to look at your first posts, asking about replacing your Submersives with S2's. Nowhere in your posts have you mentioned what it is you are trying to accomplish with the various upgrade options. I think that without some clearer understanding of your goals the discussion will be completely random. Do you want to have the rougher and more overt tactile response of ported subs? Do you want more headroom in a particular part of the frequency range? Are you pushing your current subs right to their limits? Without knowing more, it's hard to know what to say.

The first page of this thread has a table that Chucky made which illustrates the max outputs of the various JTR subs. The information on the Cap 2400 comes from Jeff, but his numbers normally correspond quite closely to the Data-Bass numbers. It can be extremely difficult to integrate ported and sealed subs, since their inherent FR is quite different. Throw in the fact that you are limited in your placement options, and I don't think it's a very good idea. I especially wouldn't recommend going down that path, unless there were some specific objective you were trying to accomplish, that you don't believe you can achieve with sealed subs.

Multiple S2's are going to give you a ton of output, and depending on your room size, which you haven't specified, you may also get plenty of low-frequency extension. Absent a really good reason to the contrary, I would recommend either going all ported or all sealed. An example of a good exception to that might be a nearfield ported mid-bass module (with a bandwidth-limited FR) in a system consisting of sealed subs.

But, mixing full-range ported and full-range sealed subs is a different kind of challenge, and one I wouldn't tackle without REW, a miniDSP, and a pretty darn good reason to do it in the first place.

Regards,
Mike
Mike. Thank you for the excellent response. Some additional info:

1.) I am using an Xilica XP4080 so I have total control of delay and total control over PEQ, shelfs, levels etc for each sub. I am an engineer but just a neophyte when it comes to integrating all my subs I have learned a lot and plan to try to get my REW set up back online soon
2.) My room is just a bit over 3,000 ft^3, purpose built theater room with double wall construction and two layers of sheetrock with green glue.
3.) There are some instances where I believe my Submersives are running out of steam but another option is to roll the off at lower frequencies as they do have good mid-bass punch
4.) I guess I always want to have the most capable system as I like to run the subs a bit hot and not have to worry about damaging something

I think 3 - S2 and the single S1 (rear) will work since my S1 can sound too boomy due to room modes and I have too keep the gain a bit lower on it.
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7.4.6 system: Processors:Marantz 8805 || Xilica XP4080 Amps: Parasound A31 and ATI AT528NC & AT526NC n-core ||Speakers: Procella P8 LCR, Procella P5 for surround & ceiling
Subs: JTR Captivator S2, JTR Captivator S1, 2 Seaton Submersive (dual 15")
Screen: 2.40:1 Seymour XD Acoustically Transparent, 128" diagonal / 118" wide || Projector: JVC X570/RS420
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post #7150 of 12964 Old 01-21-2018, 02:24 PM
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I don't know what is going on...

I have never had a problem with receiving emails from Jeff. Whenever I shoot him an email, he usually gets back to me within a day.

However, I know some people have problem getting a reply from Jeff. It could be due to the email server that Jeff is using.

For example, I asked Jeff on Friday the 19th about a fellow member who had emailed Jeff on Saturday the 13th. It turned out that Jeff replied on Monday the 15th, but the member never received the reply. So Jeff resent the reply and it seems they don't have a problem now.

On the 15th, Jeff told me that he has been working like crazy. There are a couple big custom orders.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

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post #7151 of 12964 Old 01-21-2018, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
I don't know what is going on...

I have never had a problem with receiving emails from Jeff. Whenever I shoot him an email, he usually gets back to me within a day.

However, I know some people have problem getting a reply from Jeff. It could be due to the email server that Jeff is using.

For example, I asked Jeff on Friday the 19th about a fellow member who had emailed Jeff on Saturday the 13th. It turned out that Jeff replied on Monday the 15th, but the member never received the reply. So Jeff resent the reply and it seems they don't have a problem now.

On 15th, Jeff told me that he has been working like crazy. There are a couple big custom orders.

I remember I had this kind of issue last time I was conversing with Jeff. He was replying to my emails from his end but I wasn't receiving them. We ended it conversing via PM's.


Just to cover all the bases I've re-sent my query to [email protected] and [email protected].


Very pleased (and not at all surprised) to hear that he is very busy.


All good things come to those who wait so patience is the name of the game. (Just wish I was a bit better at it)
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post #7152 of 12964 Old 01-21-2018, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
I don't know what is going on...

I have never had a problem with receiving emails from Jeff. Whenever I shoot him an email, he usually gets back to me within a day.

However, I know some people have problem getting a reply from Jeff. It could be due to the email server that Jeff is using.

For example, I asked Jeff on Friday the 19th about a fellow member who had emailed Jeff on Saturday the 13th. It turned out that Jeff replied on Monday the 15th, but the member never received the reply. So Jeff resent the reply and it seems they don't have a problem now.

On 15th, Jeff told me that he has been working like crazy. There are a couple big custom orders.
This is not a mysterious email issue. Even if that was the case, it should be obvious (to him) that his emails are not reaching customers.

He doesn't reply to PM either.
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post #7153 of 12964 Old 01-21-2018, 08:04 PM
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This is not a mysterious email issue. Even if that was the case, it should be obvious (to him) that his emails are not reaching customers.

He doesn't reply to PM either.
Unfortunately that is one of the downside of running a one man shop. I also know that he does not work the same hours as say Tom at PSA does. Jeff is a very nice guy and easy to work with but he does tend to disappear at times and leaves people hanging. But that is how things are and a consideration for folks shopping for subs.

Subwoofers: Dual Rythmik FV18s Rev2 with Paper cone, BOSS Platform mini riser
Speakers: PSA MTM-210 L/C/R - Klipsch 250S Surrounds, PSA MT 110sr Rear Surrounds, 4 x SVS Prime Elevation for Atmos
Video: Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 6500 UB; Room: 2100 cuft sealed on suspended floor
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post #7154 of 12964 Old 01-21-2018, 08:29 PM
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Unfortunately that is one of the downside of running a one man shop. I also know that he does not work the same hours as say Tom at PSA does. Jeff is a very nice guy and easy to work with but he does tend to disappear at times and leaves people hanging. But that is how things are and a consideration for folks shopping for subs.
Jeff will get back to you. It just may take a minute since he's pretty much a one man show from what I've gathered over the years. He responded to me within a couple days and I plan on giving him my credit card number tomorrow.

I sold my submersive F2's today and am putting in an order for 2 2400 ULF's. Can't wait.
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post #7155 of 12964 Old 01-22-2018, 10:33 AM
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Jeff will get back to you. It just may take a minute since he's pretty much a one man show from what I've gathered over the years. He responded to me within a couple days and I plan on giving him my credit card number tomorrow.

I sold my submersive F2's today and am putting in an order for 2 2400 ULF's. Can't wait.
Order has been placed! Just hope I get them before the Superbowl party.
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post #7156 of 12964 Old 01-22-2018, 10:47 AM
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Order has been placed! Just hope I get them before the Superbowl party.
Congrats!

I wasn't aware there was a lot of LF content in football games

If I hear rumbling on the I-5 on my next trip south, I'll know where it's all coming from!
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post #7157 of 12964 Old 01-23-2018, 03:33 PM
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Acaps:

Congratulations on receiving your Captivator 1400!

The following is a guide for the initial set up of the sub. It should be pretty universal because in JTR's current LF Adjust program, @ Boost = flat outdoors.

Flow chart:

1. Adjust the settings on sub amp plate.
2. AVR auto-calibration part 1 (level/phase/distance).
3. Check sub level in speaker setting, if sub level is - 6 ~ - 9, proceed to 4. if not, adjust gain and repeat 2 and 3.
4. Change speaker setting ( LARGE to SMALL ), crossover to 80 Hz.
5. AVR auto-calibration part 2 ( EQ and other stuff ).
6. Manual adjustment.

Your Cap 1400 LF Adjust is cut only, so @ BOOST, it is flat outdoors.

On your sub, start with Gain @ 12 o'clock, LF Adjust @ 1/4 to 1/2, Crossover @ 120 Hz/Out, Delay @ 0 ms, RCA input @ left and input switch @ RCA. This means that you are letting your AVR set the crossover.

Then let your AVR do the first stage of auto-calibration ( level/phase/distance for your system ). When it's done, there should be a place for you to check the results and make adjustments ( typically in speaker level setting ).

For the sub level, try to aim for a value of - 6 ~ - 9. If you get a -12 for sub level, turn the gain down and rerun the first stage of auto calibration; if you get a -3, turn the gain up, then rerun auto calibration. After this, your sub is level calibrated with the rest of your speakers.

The AVR might tell you that your speakers are LARGE, and speaker crossover is 60 Hz or whatever. Change the speakers to SMALL, and crossover to 80 Hz. ( The theory is, the more capable your mains are, the lower the crossover should be. THX recommends 80 Hz, so 80 Hz is a good point. Setting it higher might cause human voice to come from the sub and too much localization )

Now you can proceed to the 2nd stage of calibration, where it does the EQ. After that, your system is calibrated.

Now that the system is calibrated, any time you want to just turn down your sub, you should do so on your AVR speaker level setting, not with the gain on your sub. If you adjusted the gain on your sub, you should run the auto calibration again. The theory behind this common practice is it allows you to fine tune the wooferage based on the bass content. You can turn it up for 1 movie and return to the original setting afterwards. Of course since the knobs have detents now, it is easier to do so.

The next steps are for manual adjustments

You can manually bump the sub level in the AVR speaker level setting. Most people will increase say a -6 to 0 ( 6 dB hot ) or -6 to -3 ( 3 dB hot ). This is commonly referred to as 'the sub trim'.

Then you can adjust LF Adjust to taste. If your room is very small, you should leave it closer to Cut. If your room is big, you can try somewhere between 12 o'clock ~ Boost.

A lot of people bump up the center channel level by 2 dB. This will make the dialogues louder/clearer.

I have a Pioneer AVR and the above works. It would work for Denon/Marantz AVR as well.

Below is what the LF Adjust does to the FR:

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Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #7158 of 12964 Old 01-23-2018, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
Acaps:

Congratulations on receiving your Captivator 1400!

The following is a guide for the initial set up of the sub. It should be pretty universal because in JTR's current LF Adjust program, @ Boost = flat outdoors.

Flow chart:

1. Adjust the settings on sub amp plate.
2. AVR auto-calibration part 1 (level/phase/distance).
3. Check sub level in speaker setting, if sub level is - 6 ~ - 9, proceed to 4. if not, adjust gain and repeat 2 and 3.
4. Change speaker setting ( LARGE to SMALL ), crossover to 80 Hz.
5. AVR auto-calibration part 2 ( EQ and other stuff ).
6. Manual adjustment.

Your Cap 1400 LF Adjust is cut only, so @ BOOST, it is flat outdoors.

On your sub, start with Gain @ 12 o'clock, LF Adjust @ 1/4 to 1/2, Crossover @ 120 Hz/Out, Delay @ 0 ms, RCA input @ left and input switch @ RCA. This means that you are letting your AVR set the crossover.

Then let your AVR do the first stage of auto-calibration ( level/phase/distance for your system ). When it's done, there should be a place for you to check the results and make adjustments ( typically in speaker level setting ).

For the sub level, try to aim for a value of - 6 ~ - 9. If you get a -12 for sub level, turn the gain down and rerun the first stage of auto calibration; if you get a -3, turn the gain up, then rerun auto calibration. After this, your sub is level calibrated with the rest of your speakers.

The AVR might tell you that your speakers are LARGE, and speaker crossover is 60 Hz or whatever. Change the speakers to SMALL, and crossover to 80 Hz. ( The theory is, the more capable your mains are, the lower the crossover should be. THX recommends 80 Hz, so 80 Hz is a good point. Setting it higher might cause human voice to come from the sub and too much localization )

Now you can proceed to the 2nd stage of calibration, where it does the EQ. After that, your system is calibrated.

Now that the system is calibrated, any time you want to just turn down your sub, you should do so on your AVR speaker level setting, not with the gain on your sub. If you adjusted the gain on your sub, you should run the auto calibration again. The theory behind this common practice is it allows you to fine tune the wooferage based on the bass content. You can turn it up for 1 movie and return to the original setting afterwards. Of course since the knobs have detents now, it is easier to do so.

The next steps are for manual adjustments

You can manually bump the sub level in the AVR speaker level setting. Most people will increase say a -6 to 0 ( 6 dB hot ) or -6 to -3 ( 3 dB hot ). This is commonly referred to as 'the sub trim'.

Then you can adjust LF Adjust to taste. If your room is very small, you should leave it closer to Cut. If your room is big, you can try somewhere between 12 o'clock ~ Boost.

A lot of people bump up the center channel level by 2 dB. This will make the dialogues louder/clearer.

I have a Pioneer AVR and the above works. It would work for Denon/Marantz AVR as well.

Below is what the LF Adjust does to the FR:

Chucky,

Are you saying that all the JTR sub amps have the same controls? I hope that is true so I can use the awesome guide you posted above.
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post #7159 of 12964 Old 01-23-2018, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Baron5 View Post
Chucky,

Are you saying that all the JTR sub amps have the same controls? I hope that is true so I can use the awesome guide you posted above.
Yes. All current JTR sub amps should have the same controls. The only difference is perhaps the starting point for LF Adjust - each model is different, and everyone's room size is different.

Below is the LF Adjust for 2400ULF: blue is @ boost and white is @ cut.


Below is what my Cap 1400's amp looks like:



Below is what your Cap 2400ULF amp look like:

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Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

Last edited by chucky7; 01-24-2018 at 05:01 PM.
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post #7160 of 12964 Old 01-24-2018, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Marc Alexander View Post
Don't forget that Jeff can match any piece of existing furniture. I sent a shelf from our TV console in to him and he sent some samples for my wife to approve.

This 2400 is on its way back to Jeff to repair the damage FedEx inflicted ("It is at the driver's discretion to stack pallets...", huh?). I will take better pictures when it returns.
Is it the picture angle or is this sub deeper than 22"?
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post #7161 of 12964 Old 01-24-2018, 11:35 AM
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Is it the picture angle or is this sub deeper than 22"?
It's the angle. The 2400ULF Tall is 41″ H x 20.5″ W x 22.5″ D, just about 11" taller than the Cap 1400, which is 30″ H x 20″ W x 22.5″ D.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #7162 of 12964 Old 01-24-2018, 11:54 AM
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Thanks God. I know that's what the JTR site said but wanted to be sure before two show up. Pissed myself a little when I saw that pic.
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post #7163 of 12964 Old 01-25-2018, 11:39 AM
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I haven't been on here in a while due to work, family, and watching movies, but really enjoying my JTR Cap 1400 so far.

Threw on Mother! the other night and thought the surround sound and bass were really good. The movie itself wasn't great but the sound effects were pretty darn good. Apparently my wife thought so too... JTR for the win!

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Sony 75X940E JTR 110HT, Single 8HT, Captivator 1400 Denon X4200W Sony X800M2 ATV4K
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post #7164 of 12964 Old 01-25-2018, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by irishluck73 View Post
I haven't been on here in a while due to work, family, and watching movies, but really enjoying my JTR Cap 1400 so far.

Threw on Mother! the other night and thought the surround sound and bass were really good. The movie itself wasn't great but the sound effects were pretty darn good. Apparently my wife thought so too... JTR for the win!


Agreed!!!

The movie Mother! has a very active bass track. Those who enjoy port wind are gonna love this.

I think the room temp in my HT must have dropped 10 degrees due to all the wind chill.

My wife even said, 'Turn the sub down... I am so cold!'

The plot is disturbing.

The camera follows the Mother a lot then other characters appear into the frame. The surround audio shows that and is really well done.
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Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #7165 of 12964 Old 01-26-2018, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by irishluck73 View Post
BTW, if this is a picture of your wife, I would say yes to ANYTHING!

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #7166 of 12964 Old 01-26-2018, 10:53 AM
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BTW, if this is a picture of your wife, I would say yes to ANYTHING!
That is my wife... I definitely married up. Beauty and the beast.
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Sony 75X940E JTR 110HT, Single 8HT, Captivator 1400 Denon X4200W Sony X800M2 ATV4K
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post #7167 of 12964 Old 01-26-2018, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by irishluck73 View Post
That is my wife... I definitely married up. Beauty and the beast.
Good for you man! I guess it's all in your name.
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post #7168 of 12964 Old 01-26-2018, 07:44 PM
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So, I have 2 of the 2400's on the way. Would you guys have the woofers closer to the corners for more room gain or towards the entertainment center for Chucky's port wind? The 2400's would come close to touching the vents. I bought some 90o rca plugs to eat up some of the depth issue. I sit 12 to 13' from the speakers and this is a bonus room above the garage (floating floor). I always imagined the sub drivers closest to the wall but was just wondering what you all thought. The other option is stand them upright in the corners and build speaker stand for the T12's.
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post #7169 of 12964 Old 01-26-2018, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Baron5 View Post
So, I have 2 of the 2400's on the way. Would you guys have the woofers closer to the corners for more room gain or towards the entertainment center for Chucky's port wind? The 2400's would come close to touching the vents. I bought some 90o rca plugs to eat up some of the depth issue. I sit 12 to 13' from the speakers and this is a bonus room above the garage (floating floor). I always imagined the sub drivers closest to the wall but was just wondering what you all thought. The other option is stand them upright in the corners and build speaker stand for the T12's.
Which version of the 2400s did you order?
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post #7170 of 12964 Old 01-26-2018, 10:23 PM
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Which version of the 2400s did you order?
ULF's
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