Official JTR Speakers Subwoofer Thread - Page 319 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9541 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 04:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrari_1996 View Post
What is the height of the ports for the Captivator subs?

From the pictures, the height of the ports looks the same for all of them. Surely the Cap 4000, for example, has taller ports than the ones in your Cap 1400. My PB-1000 has a 3.5" circular port while only having a 10" driver. But then again, I don't really know how ports work and maybe the slot-type ports used in JTR subs are less susceptible than circular ports when it comes to port noise?
I just measured the ports for my 2015 1400 and 4000ULF. The 1400 has 2 ports of 1.5" x 9" and the 4000 has 2 ports of 2" x 9 1/8"

Therefore, the port area of the 1400 is almost 3 times the ported area of the PB-1000 and the 4000ULF, almost 4 times.

Port tune is determined by port area / port length. The lower the port tune, the smaller the ratio.

In theory, the flare around port helps alleviate the port noise. That is why most subwoofer cabinets will have flare around the port. Some manufacturer actually tried schooling Jeff regarding the lack of flare on JTR subs. Jeff let his subwoofer do the chuffing, or the lack thereof. 👍 👍

It's quite interesting. I heard 3 similarly priced subs playing at the same volume side by side. The sub that produced the most port wind and TR had the least chuffing. This sub was the only one that did not have flared ports.

It is also about matching the cabinet with the driver and the port tune. Lowering the port tune would also alleviate the potential for port noise. For example, @ my normal MV with the LF Adjust at max, the 4000ULF is completely immune from the World War Z - Grenade scene and Pulse - Server scene, 2 well-known chuff-inducing scenes. This is because those hot bass are centered NOT AT the 4000ULF's port tune - meaning the driver is still doing the heavy lifting.
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post #9542 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by FattyMcButterPants View Post
Where are you getting these estimates on the 2400?

I’m curious because I ordered some closeout 1400’s and am wondering if it’s worth my time (and money) to swap out for the new 2400 or not.

It does seem like it would have to lose some mid bass compared to the 1400 to make the lower tuning possible. But what do I know haha.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
Below are my estimates for the Captivator 2400 and the 2019 Captivator 118HT:

Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
The Cap 2400 will basically be the 2400ULF with a smaller cabinet. Jeff has already said that it will be -3dB @ 10Hz. Above 20Hz, the Cap 2400 should have similar output as the 2400ULF as they have the same driver.

In going with the closeout 1400s, you are saving almost $400 per speaker ( assuming that they were at 20% off ). The savings are real but not everyone will get usable output down to 10Hz.

Hi,

My estimate for the new Cap 2400 was based on the old Cap 2400 ULF, just as it is in Chucky's table above. According to the Data-Bass tests, the old Cap 2400 averages 119.7db for the mid-bass range from 40Hz to 80Hz. In maintaining the same amplifier, but in a smaller cabinet and with a similar tuning point, I assumed that some mid-bass SPL would inevitably be lost by diversion of power to the lowest frequencies. That is actually what happened when the Cap 2400 ULF was introduced. The early mid-bass estimates proved to be a little too optimistic, compared to the reality.

All of this is a great example of the TANSTAFL effect. There ain't no such thing as a free lunch when it comes to subwoofers, either. We can have more low-bass, or we can have more mid-bass, but it is hard to have both in the same subwoofer. We saw that same concept played-out recently in the discussion of the Orbit Shifter LFU versus the Cap 4000.

To be conservative, I assumed that the new Cap 2400, in the smaller cabinet, would lose about a 1db average in the 40Hz to 80Hz range. That would put it at about 119, or a little less, compared to the 2400 ULF which averaged 119.7. That actually isn't much loss at all, but it seems to me, that there may be a little loss. Time will tell, but in any case, the difference between 117.3db and ~119db didn't seem that it would be quite significant enough for the original poster to want to trade-up from his PB16's--unless he were specifically looking for more low-frequency extension.

I think that the same reasoning can be applied to your situation. As others have noted, the Cap 1400 is a very efficient subwoofer. If you were to upgrade to the Cap 2400 in the same cabinet size, you would lose about 2.5db to 3db average in the mid-bass range from the 122db that the Cap 1400 has. But, you would gain some additional low-frequency extension below 16Hz. That additional extension might be noticeable in the form of extra bass weight, even if you couldn't specifically hear those frequencies. In my opinion, you wouldn't miss the mid-bass SPL you would lose, unless you were running the subwoofers close to max output to start with. But, you would have to decide that based on your own listening habits.

Personally, I still like the Cap 2400 ULF as an alternative to the Cap 1400, because the SPL gains below 20Hz are much more substantial. It is hard to know exactly how new models are going to be received. I don't know Jeff, but I think I know something about him. I think that he loves to innovate; and he loves to fill niches, as he once said. Whether the new Cap 2400 will fill a niche better than the Cap 1400 did remains to be seen. But, one thing is for sure. The new 2019 models won't be the last word from JTR.

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #9543 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
Below are my estimates for the Captivator 2400 and the 2019 Captivator 118HT:



I was convinced. Now would be the time to sell my pb16’s and change over to jtr.

But after seeing this, I’m right where I was last year. It’s just not worthwhile, and there is little to gain except below 16hz.

I does seem the 1400 was the perfect mix of the new 2400 and the new 118. I would kind of want the 1400 still.


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post #9544 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 07:14 AM
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The smaller cab should increase mid bass and decrease low bass. Of course this means it will take more power to reach it's limits as well.

Building the room, speakers, and subs.
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post #9545 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrazda View Post
I was convinced. Now would be the time to sell my pb16’s and change over to jtr.

But after seeing this, I’m right where I was last year. It’s just not worthwhile, and there is little to gain except below 16hz.

I does seem the 1400 was the perfect mix of the new 2400 and the new 118. I would kind of want the 1400 still.
You didn't go for the 1400 last year. What has changed?

Have you looked at the PSA V3611? I believe it best fits your goals. Have a chat with them.
https://www.powersoundaudio.com/products/V3611
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post #9546 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Marc Alexander View Post
You didn't go for the 1400 last year. What has changed?

Have you looked at the PSA V3611? I believe it best fits your goals. Have a chat with them.
https://www.powersoundaudio.com/products/V3611


I had bought one pb16 before I even heard of jtr. Then when I was buying my second pb16, I heard about jtr, and considered sending my pb16 back and getting 1400’s, but wasn’t convinced it would be worth the hassle of sending my pb16 back to svs and waiting to get the 1400’s. The only thing that has changed is the recent lineup change from jtr. I was hoping the new 2400 would be a big step up from the 1400. And it is, below 16hz. But even way back last year, and still, I am not that concerned below 16hz because of the limited amount of content below 16hz. The 1400 is better than my pb16’s in the mid bass region. Was hoping the new 2400 would be better in the entire range of 16-80hz.


Are there measurements anywhere for that V3611?

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post #9547 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 09:25 AM
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post #9548 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
I just measured the ports for my 2015 1400 and 4000ULF. The 1400 has 2 ports of 1.5" x 9" and the 4000 has 2 ports of 2" x 9 1/8"
Just for reference, I measured the ports for the 2400-10ULF which has a single port measuring 9 3/16 by 2 1/16. The port is dead center of the cabinet. I believe this is what the new 2400 will look like but in the 1400 size cabinet.

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post #9549 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 10:16 AM
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how does the standard finish look? does it look like a matte black, or more like a bed liner?
I saw you received some great feedback on this question. I thought I would second the recommendation that you get an upgraded finish if the sub will be visible in a common area or well lit area.


While the standard finish is not unattractive, it is a bit industrial for living rooms (unless that is your style). In a dark room or a dedicated theater, it blends in perfectly.


Incidentally, the picture in the post above does a good job of capturing the real-life look of the standard finish. Maybe a hair less shiny in real life.
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post #9550 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 11:06 AM
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Thanks @chucky7 and @mthomas47 ! Your projections and explanations have been very helpful!


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post #9551 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 11:11 AM
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Here's how the room is coming along













I don't necessarily need a match (the Revels are piano black and semi gloss black) but I do need it to look nice
That's a nice room that is begging for a projector and screen
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Subs: JTR Captivator subs: One S2, Two RS2, One S1
Screen: 2.40:1 Seymour XD Acoustically Transparent, 128" diagonal / 118" wide || Projector: JVC X570/RS420
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post #9552 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
Below are my estimates for the Captivator 2400 and the 2019 Captivator 118HT:

Chucky would you mind adding the Captivator S2 to your table? The S2 is an incredible performer and I would like to see how it compares to the new 1400 in the 40-70 Hz range.

7.4.6 system: Processors:Marantz 8805 || Xilica XP4080 Amps: Parasound A31 and ATI AT528NC & AT526NC n-core ||Speakers: Procella P8 LCR, Procella P5/P5 in-wall
Subs: JTR Captivator subs: One S2, Two RS2, One S1
Screen: 2.40:1 Seymour XD Acoustically Transparent, 128" diagonal / 118" wide || Projector: JVC X570/RS420
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post #9553 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
I just measured the ports for my 2015 1400 and 4000ULF. The 1400 has 2 ports of 1.5" x 9" and the 4000 has 2 ports of 2" x 9 1/8"

Therefore, the port area of the 1400 is almost 3 times the ported area of the PB-1000 and the 4000ULF, almost 4 times.

Port tune is determined by port area / port length. The lower the port tune, the smaller the ratio.

In theory, the flare around port helps alleviate the port noise. That is why most subwoofer cabinets will have flare around the port. Some manufacturer actually tried schooling Jeff regarding the lack of flare on JTR subs. Jeff let his subwoofer do the chuffing, or the lack thereof. 👍 👍

It's quite interesting. I heard 3 similarly priced subs playing at the same volume side by side. The sub that produced the most port wind and TR had the least chuffing. This sub was the only one that did not have flared ports.

It is also about matching the cabinet with the driver and the port tune. Lowering the port tune would also alleviate the potential for port noise. For example, @ my normal MV with the LF Adjust at max, the 4000ULF is completely immune from the World War Z - Grenade scene and Pulse - Server scene, 2 well-known chuff-inducing scenes. This is because those hot bass are centered NOT AT the 4000ULF's port tune - meaning the driver is still doing the heavy lifting.
Thank you for the informative reply. I think it's the short height that made them look a little underported to me but I now understand that the width of the ports make up for that (in terms of port area).

And I learn something new today, that a lower tuned sub dictates a lower port area.
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post #9554 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
I just measured the ports for my 2015 1400 and 4000ULF. The 1400 has 2 ports of 1.5" x 9" and the 4000 has 2 ports of 2" x 9 1/8"

Therefore, the port area of the 1400 is almost 3 times the ported area of the PB-1000 and the 4000ULF, almost 4 times.

Port tune is determined by port area / port length. The lower the port tune, the smaller the ratio.

In theory, the flare around port helps alleviate the port noise. That is why most subwoofer cabinets will have flare around the port. Some manufacturer actually tried schooling Jeff regarding the lack of flare on JTR subs. Jeff let his subwoofer do the chuffing, or the lack thereof. 👍 👍

It's quite interesting. I heard 3 similarly priced subs playing at the same volume side by side. The sub that produced the most port wind and TR had the least chuffing. This sub was the only one that did not have flared ports.

It is also about matching the cabinet with the driver and the port tune. Lowering the port tune would also alleviate the potential for port noise. For example, @ my normal MV with the LF Adjust at max, the 4000ULF is completely immune from the World War Z - Grenade scene and Pulse - Server scene, 2 well-known chuff-inducing scenes. This is because those hot bass are centered NOT AT the 4000ULF's port tune - meaning the driver is still doing the heavy lifting.
Thank you for the informative reply. It's the short height that made them look a little underported to me but I now understand that the width of the ports make up for that (in terms of port area).

And I learnt something new today, that a lower tune dictates a lower port area.

EDIT: I wonder how the port areas of the PSA V1801 and V3601 compare as they also use slot ports. I may ask in the PSA thread. If you're reading this and own of those subwoofers, please measure and let me know. Just curious, that's all

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post #9555 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 11:17 AM
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Based on Data-bass.com the only thing that beats the S2 in the 40-70Hz range is the 4000!

I am still on the fence about replacing my two Seaton Submersive on the side walls with Captivator S2s. I think it would give me more headroom in the mid bass region as well as increasing SPL of my lower frequency response.

7.4.6 system: Processors:Marantz 8805 || Xilica XP4080 Amps: Parasound A31 and ATI AT528NC & AT526NC n-core ||Speakers: Procella P8 LCR, Procella P5/P5 in-wall
Subs: JTR Captivator subs: One S2, Two RS2, One S1
Screen: 2.40:1 Seymour XD Acoustically Transparent, 128" diagonal / 118" wide || Projector: JVC X570/RS420
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post #9556 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jbrazda View Post
I had bought one pb16 before I even heard of jtr. Then when I was buying my second pb16, I heard about jtr, and considered sending my pb16 back and getting 1400’s, but wasn’t convinced it would be worth the hassle of sending my pb16 back to svs and waiting to get the 1400’s. The only thing that has changed is the recent lineup change from jtr. I was hoping the new 2400 would be a big step up from the 1400. And it is, below 16hz. But even way back last year, and still, I am not that concerned below 16hz because of the limited amount of content below 16hz. The 1400 is better than my pb16’s in the mid bass region. Was hoping the new 2400 would be better in the entire range of 16-80hz.

Are there measurements anywhere for that V3611?

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The PSA website has measurements for the V3611. Physically, as noted in another post, it would be larger than the Cap 2400 ULF. From a performance standpoint, it would have a lot more mid-bass SPL than the PB16 (you can find measurements for both and compare) but it would give up quite a bit of SPL below 20Hz.

I have two suggestions to make for you.

1. There are two separate things that you can do to increase the mid-bass in your existing subwoofers. The first is to implement what is called cascading crossovers. That will concentrate more SPL below about 80Hz or 90Hz, and will increase both your mid-bass tactile response and your overall mid-bass clarity, without sacrificing any low-bass. The speakers in your front sound stage are capable enough to make this a good option for you. There is a detailed explanation of how cascading crossovers work, and how to implement them in Section III of the Guide linked below. The subsection titled Cascading Crossovers is the third one in that section. This is a direct link to that section:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...erences.html#D

The other thing that you can do to enhance your mid-bass frequencies with your PB16's, is to use the pre-programmed Music Mode in your digital DSP. That mode has a mid-bass boost of ~2.2db centered on 63Hz. According to some research I have seen, that is prime chest punch territory.

I have tried both of those options with my subwoofers. I, like most people, enjoy cascading crossovers a lot. The 63Hz boost was a little too much for me, especially in conjunction with cascading crossovers. Used in conjunction, however, they should give you a lot more mid-bass than what you may be currently experiencing. It is certainly worth a try. Implementing cascading crossovers is a little bit more trouble, but I would start with that. You may like it all by itself.


2. The second thing you can try involves your port tune on the PB16's. Most people use those subwoofers in the Extended (15Hz) Mode. I believe that they are clearly better all-around performers in that port tune. But, you could implement the Standard (20Hz) Mode for a few days, changing both the port plug and the DSP. If you listened to some of your strong low-bass material, you would discover how much difference the <20Hz SPL makes. If it makes a lot of difference to you, then you are better off staying with the PB16's and continuing to work on getting more mid-bass in other ways (including adding a nearfield Cap 118HT).

If the loss of the low-bass frequencies in the 20Hz tuning mode doesn't make much difference to you, then you would be a good candidate to pivot to the Cap 118HT's. They would give up some <20Hz SPL to the PB16's in Extended Mode, but they would actually beat the PB16's in Standard Mode. So, if the 20Hz Standard Mode doesn't seem that bad, then the Cap 118HT's would be even better. And, they would give you an additional 6db of SPL in the 40Hz to 80Hz range.

There are several things you can try before throwing in the towel on the PB16's. They are very versatile subwoofers with lots of user control. But, if the cascading crossovers, and/or the boost centered at 63Hz, don't work well enough for you, then there are other things you can do, including adding a rear nearfield Cap 118, or simply pivoting to Cap 118's. Good luck and let us know what you find out.

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #9557 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 12:45 PM
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How much for the new 118HT x 2 shipped to So Cal?

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post #9558 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farsider3000 View Post
Chucky would you mind adding the Captivator S2 to your table? The S2 is an incredible performer and I would like to see how it compares to the new 1400 in the 40-70 Hz range.
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Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

Last edited by chucky7; 08-19-2018 at 05:02 PM.
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post #9559 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrari_1996 View Post
Thank you for the informative reply. I think it's the short height that made them look a little underported to me but I now understand that the width of the ports make up for that (in terms of port area).
You're welcome.

Yes, you have to calculate the port area.

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Originally Posted by Ferrari_1996 View Post
And I learn something new today, that a lower tuned sub dictates a lower port area.
It's not just the port area.

It's the ratio of the port area / port length. In a multi-tuned system, the user can't change the port length, which is inside the sub. However, the user can change the port tune by changing the port area.

This is why in a 3 port sub, all ports open will yield the highest port tune (max output mode). Stuff 1 port will lower the port tune. Stuff 2 ports will provide the max extension mode, which has the smallest port area/port length ratio.

Of course the above is just the port tune of the cabinet. The manufacturer has to do something on the amp end.
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AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

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post #9560 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pda15 View Post
How much for the new 118HT x 2 shipped to So Cal?
Earlier this year, Jeff quoted me the old 118HT shipped to SoCal at $151.

The intro price on the 118HT is 15% off or $1529 + $151, so two of them will be $3360 shipped.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #9561 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
Earlier this year, Jeff quoted me the old 118HT shipped to SoCal at $151.

The intro price on the 118HT is 15% off or $1529 + $151, so two of them will be $3360 shipped.
Same price for both? No discount for dual?
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post #9562 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pda15 View Post
Same price for both? No discount for dual?
I don't think so, not at intro price of 15% off.

Please contact Jeff.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #9563 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
Thanks Chucky!

7.4.6 system: Processors:Marantz 8805 || Xilica XP4080 Amps: Parasound A31 and ATI AT528NC & AT526NC n-core ||Speakers: Procella P8 LCR, Procella P5/P5 in-wall
Subs: JTR Captivator subs: One S2, Two RS2, One S1
Screen: 2.40:1 Seymour XD Acoustically Transparent, 128" diagonal / 118" wide || Projector: JVC X570/RS420
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post #9564 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 04:12 PM
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Official JTR Speakers Subwoofer Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
I don't think so, not at intro price of 15% off.

Please contact Jeff.


That is correct Chucky. Also the shipping is per sub from what I was told.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Subwoofers: Dual Rythmik FV18s Rev2 with Paper cone, BOSS Platform mini riser, 2 BK LFE
Speakers: PSA MTM-210 L/C/R - Klipsch 250S Surrounds, PSA MT 110sr Rear Surrounds, 4 x SVS Prime Elevation for Atmos
Video: Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 6500 UB; Room: 2100 cuft sealed on suspended floor
Receiver & Players: Denon X4400H, Oppo UDP-203, Roku Ultra. Apple TV, Minidsp 2X4 HD
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post #9565 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by farsider3000 View Post
Thanks Chucky!
You're quite welcome!

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #9566 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 04:33 PM
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You're quite welcome!

Dumb question but can you make images private if you use imgur to host or are they available for the entire world?


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7.4.6 system: Processors:Marantz 8805 || Xilica XP4080 Amps: Parasound A31 and ATI AT528NC & AT526NC n-core ||Speakers: Procella P8 LCR, Procella P5/P5 in-wall
Subs: JTR Captivator subs: One S2, Two RS2, One S1
Screen: 2.40:1 Seymour XD Acoustically Transparent, 128" diagonal / 118" wide || Projector: JVC X570/RS420
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post #9567 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 04:59 PM
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Dumb question but can you make images private if you use imgur to host or are they available for the entire world?
There are no dumb questions here.

The images on imgur is just a link that I can use in forums. Therefore, I can reuse the same image by using the link in an email, or in another post in a different forum, as long as the forum allows it.

This way I don't have to drag and drop the image on every forum that I want to use the image.

Jeff at work:

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

Last edited by chucky7; 08-19-2018 at 05:29 PM.
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post #9568 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farsider3000 View Post
Dumb question but can you make images private if you use imgur to host or are they available for the entire world?


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@chucky7 , I think he is asking if the pictures you upload into imgur can be made private instead of the default option of public. Farsider3000, yes you can make them private on imgur until you use the link from imgur to post it to another forum.

Todd
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post #9569 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farsider3000 View Post
Dumb question but can you make images private if you use imgur to host or are they available for the entire world?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
There is a tab that one can use to keep the images private or hidden. You can still upload those images in forums I believe.
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Last edited by psychdoctor; 08-19-2018 at 05:47 PM.
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post #9570 of 13859 Old 08-19-2018, 05:46 PM
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I would say I am. I don’t push them to the max always. But pretty close.


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From looking at your avatar, it looks like perhaps you may not have the best placement for the subs? While they look good flanking the center channel, that's not always the best placement for performance. I wonder if you are able to move the subs around on side walls, behind you on rear wall or even nearfield? How far are you sitting from the subs?

Theater room: Sony 45es | 120 inch screen | Panasonic BDT500 | Rotel RMB-1077 | Outlaw Audio 976 | Klipsch RP-280F/RP-450C/RP-160M (x4) | Funk Audio subs (x2) | MiniDSP 2x4HD | Crowson D-501/Shadow-8 Actuators (x2) | Monster Power Conditioner | GIK acoustic panels

TV Room: Panny 60 inch | Rotel RMB-1075 | Rotel RSP-1068 | Axiom Audio M60/VP150/QS8
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