Official JTR Speakers Subwoofer Thread - Page 327 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9781 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 07:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BobZealand View Post
Ill probably miss the August intro price cause ill be buying in september but Ill still be able to take advantage of the 10%off september intro price
Id like to know has anyone ordered the 2019 2400 yet? and is there any new info on it? As of now I still am leaning towards ordering the 2400ulf and paying the extra $ because even though I really like the smaller cabinet of the new 2400 and ofcourse I like the intro price I really dont want any whatifs
As nobody knows much about it yet. It would be nice to see a databass chart on the new 2400 either way its a really hard choice I'd like to know if the -3db at 10hz compared with the 2400ulf would be a big difference in tr or rumble at that low frequency would I be missing anything if I go with the new 2400? also alittle concerned with what I read here that since the new 2400 has a smaller cabinet it might be more prone to chuffing
If you don't mind the cost and size of the 2400 ULF, I would still vote for the 2400 ULF. If you are going to buy 2400 in September, might want to talk to Jeff and see if he would extend that sale price if you make a deposit commitment, etc. (I don't know if he would, worth trying.).

All we know is that it's down 3 dB at 10 Hz from 2400 ULF, the rest no body really knows. JTR doesn't have a history of funny noise, I don't expect the 2400 to start doing so.

Going forward, the appeal of the 2400 vs ULF model would be its decently attractive size for being a bass monster . It's the smallest subwoofer with highest 10 Hz CEA number presently available on the internet.


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post #9782 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 08:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tforbes87 View Post
Watching some Tron Legacy to flex the caps a bit lol
Hahaha I missed this one.
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post #9783 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 08:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

Going from a V1800 to any of the JTR ported subwoofers would definitely give you more low-bass SPL. But, if I lived in Denmark, I think that I would look very hard at the XTZ 3X12. It should be much less expensive, where you are, than importing an expensive and heavy subwoofer from the US. It would have more overall SPL than the PB13 you liked, and much more low-bass than the V1800 you have now. Here is a link to a review of it written by Josh Ricci of Data-Bass:

https://www.audioholics.com/subwoofe...bwoofer-review

Regards,
Mike
Hi Mike, good point as usual, but for better or for worse , owner sounds like the type who would promptly test the new subwoofer with Edge of Tomorrow, and for that I'm afraid the XTZ may not fit the bill.

Looking at XTZ 3x12 CEA numbers, it's actually closer to new JTR 118HT, and IMHO even though the PSA 1800 numbers are not known, XTZ is not far superior enough to be considered a decisive upward move, especially one who is going to play with ULF:
10 NA, 12.5 Hz 97 dB, 16 Hz 106 dB, 20 Hz 111.5 dB, 25 Hz 115.5 dB

Bottom line, *if* ultra low bass is what you are looking for, there is no comparison between 2400 (98.8 dB at 10 Hz) and XTZ (not available). Another interesting point, new JTR 118HT is at $1500 sale, XTZ is at $2500.


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Interesting Audio Diagrams :-) & High-End Speaker Reviews
JTR Subwoofer Thread I don't always listen to subwoofers, but when I do, it's JTR :-).

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post #9784 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by cannga View Post
Hi Mike, good point as usual, but for better of for worse , owner sounds like the type who would promptly test the new subwoofer with Edge of Tomorrow, and for that I'm afraid the XTZ may not fit the bill.

Looking at CEA XTZ 3x12 numbers, it's actually closer to new JTR 118HT, and IMHO even though the PSA 1800 numbers are not known, XTZ is not far superior enough to be considered a decisive upward move, especially one who is going to play with ULF:
10 NA, 12.5 Hz 97 dB, 16 Hz 106 dB, 20 Hz 111.5 dB, 25 Hz 115.5 dB

Bottom line, at 10 Hz, there is no comparison between 2400 (98.8 dB at 10 Hz) and XTZ (not available), *if* ultra low bass is what you are looking for. Another interesting point, new JTR 118HT is at $1500 sale, XTZ is at $2500.

@cannga take a gander at the XTZ 3x12 vs JTR Cap 1400 on data-bass. The 1400 is no slouch on the scenes described by the poster.

Are you upgrading your 1400 soon?
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post #9785 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 08:37 AM
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Got around to watching some movies yesterday, and the 1400’s did not disappoint one bit. I don’t listen particularly loud compared to most, typically hanging out in the -15 to -20 range, but they really had my couch shaking. I started with Hacksaw Ridge, and holy crap were those artillery strikes intense!

I’d been wondering for years if bigger subs like this would make much difference at my listening level in regards to TR, and so far it appears the answer is clearly “yes” lol.

Really liking the 1400’s so far, both in terms of performance and looks. I know the JTR standard finish catches some flack for not looking he best, but it does look far better than I expected based on word of mouth.

I know everyone likes to see pics, so here is how I have things setup for now. The 1400’s are doing WORK from these spots, and are straight up violent during movies. Cant wait for the next movie!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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post #9786 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
The effect of the 4000ULF's LF Adjust in my HT:



Between Boost (Blue) and Cut (Red), the range is 18dB @ 10Hz, the tuning frequency. Notice the range gets smaller the further away from 10Hz? Hence the name, Low Frequency Adjust. The LF Adjust shapes the FR to suit the user's liking.

In practice, if you have the LF Adjust @ Boost playing the Edge of Tomorrow intro and you don't like the chuff, you can turn down the LF Adjust. You will get less low end and TR but the chuff can be completely eliminated. The most output at a given frequency for the sub in your HT is finite. Therefore, turning down the LF Adjust will provide more reserve, or headroom, so that it can still handle the most demanding scenes out there. Some users might prefer lower LF Adjust setting for music and higher LF Adjust setting for movies.

The trim and the gain have pretty much the same function. It raises the output below the crossover. Each click on the sub gain is 1.5dB.
Thank you very much. Your explanation and graph made it very understandable.
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post #9787 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannga View Post
Hi, see Chucky's response above. If I understand your question correctly, the brief answer is LF Adjust knob affects a small range, the ultra low range, say 10-40 Hz, whereas the trim/level in the AVR affects the whole range of bass10-120 Hz.

LFE's "loudness/dB" range is limited to the few dB's that the engineer sets it to be. So, smaller frequency range (10-40), and relatively less effect on loudness (less "dB" affected).

Trim/level affects a much bigger "loudness/dB" range. So, larger frequency range, and huge effect on loudness. Hope this helps.
Thank you. Your explanation helped a lot.
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post #9788 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FattyMcButterPants View Post
Got around to watching some movies yesterday, and the 1400’s did not disappoint one bit. I don’t listen particularly loud compared to most, typically hanging out in the -15 to -20 range, but they really had my couch shaking. I started with Hacksaw Ridge, and holy crap were those artillery strikes intense!

I’d been wondering for years if bigger subs like this would make much difference at my listening level in regards to TR, and so far it appears the answer is clearly “yes” lol.

Really liking the 1400’s so far, both in terms of performance and looks. I know the JTR standard finish catches some flack for not looking he best, but it does look far better than I expected based on word of mouth.

I know everyone likes to see pics, so here is how I have things setup for now. The 1400’s are doing WORK from these spots, and are straight up violent during movies. Cant wait for the next movie!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very nice setup. I watched War of the Worlds the other night and violent is how I would definitely describe it, and that's just with one 2400ULF.
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post #9789 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by madhuski View Post
any more pics?

Couple more pics of the 2400 ULF in malbec black. Got cork/rubber blocks under all four corners. Blocks have cloth over them to help protect the finish. Experienced some hum and inconsistent auto on/off behavior which I fixed by installing a cheater plug which is plugged into a volt correction unit. Maybe this is dangerous but it works. Perfectly quiet now with appropriate auto on/off behavior.

I don't need to tell anyone how much more power and authority this has than my SVS PB12NSD subs. I have all of the measuring equipment and someday I'll get around to using it. But this thing is a beauty and I'll order a matching unit within a year's time.
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post #9790 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Sweet Jimmy View Post
Couple more pics of the 2400 ULF in malbec black. Got cork/rubber blocks under all four corners. Blocks have cloth over them to help protect the finish. Experienced some hum and inconsistent auto on/off behavior which I fixed by installing a cheater plug which is plugged into a volt correction unit. Maybe this is dangerous but it works. Perfectly quiet now with appropriate auto on/off behavior.

I don't need to tell anyone how much more power and authority this has than my SVS PB12NSD subs. I have all of the measuring equipment and someday I'll get around to using it. But this thing is a beauty and I'll order a matching unit within a year's time.


very nice looking. What’s malbec black? is it different than piano black?
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post #9791 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 10:39 AM
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very nice looking. What’s malbec black? is it different than piano black?
JTR offers automotive paint finishing. So I had no idea what to do when confronted with this choice as I'd never had an automotive paint option before. So I tried to think of cars I'd seen before that I liked the look of. I remembered seeing a 2016 Infiniti QX50 in Malbec Black that I liked. It looks like piano black except for when a good dose of light is put to it, then you see some purple come out. So I chose that. It really was an odd process but I think it worked out. There are just so many options when you've got years and years of car color choices available. A bit overwhelming if you're not accustomed to it.
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post #9792 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 10:53 AM
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Hey guys, I was bored and stumbling around youtube and ran into this, caught me off gaurd and knocked a light out my kitchen ceiling.

JTR lfe guys, what hz do you think this is at?

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post #9793 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 10:54 AM
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@BobZealand , if you are already leaning toward the 2400ulf, then that is the exact direction you should go. Jeff P is the only one at this point that can give you any direction on the difference between the Ulf and the new 2400. I would talk to him on the phone if you are on the fence. Nobody has any real world experience with them except him.

Any talk of chuffing is pure speculation. But again, that is something only Jeff can answer right now.

If you do get the 2400ulf, any doubt about the extra money spent will melt away once you see and hear them. The cavernous, violent bass is simply awesome. They scared the ***** out of me yesterday when I checked my phone for a brief minute watching RPO at -10.

A little weight might melt off of you too after eating Ramen noodles breakfast, lunch and diner for 3 weeks..........you know.......cost savings to make up for the difference! That’s a 2 for 1 benefit right there!

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post #9794 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Sweet Jimmy View Post
JTR offers automotive paint finishing. So I had no idea what to do when confronted with this choice as I'd never had an automotive paint option before. So I tried to think of cars I'd seen before that I liked the look of. I remembered seeing a 2016 Infiniti QX50 in Malbec Black that I liked. It looks like piano black except for when a good dose of light is put to it, then you see some purple come out. So I chose that. It really was an odd process but I think it worked out. There are just so many options when you've got years and years of car color choices available. A bit overwhelming if you're not accustomed to it.
And here I thougt Jeff P was giving out a bottle of wine with purchase!

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post #9795 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by cannga View Post
Hi Mike, good point as usual, but for better or for worse , owner sounds like the type who would promptly test the new subwoofer with Edge of Tomorrow, and for that I'm afraid the XTZ may not fit the bill.

Looking at XTZ 3x12 CEA numbers, it's actually closer to new JTR 118HT, and IMHO even though the PSA 1800 numbers are not known, XTZ is not far superior enough to be considered a decisive upward move, especially one who is going to play with ULF:
10 NA, 12.5 Hz 97 dB, 16 Hz 106 dB, 20 Hz 111.5 dB, 25 Hz 115.5 dB

Bottom line, *if* ultra low bass is what you are looking for, there is no comparison between 2400 (98.8 dB at 10 Hz) and XTZ (not available). Another interesting point, new JTR 118HT is at $1500 sale, XTZ is at $2500.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc Alexander View Post
@cannga take a gander at the XTZ 3x12 vs JTR Cap 1400 on data-bass. The 1400 is no slouch on the scenes described by the poster.

Are you upgrading your 1400 soon?

Both good points in both posts! As Marc says, the Swedish-made 3X12 compares very favorably to the Cap 1400, and the cost difference to get something like the Cap 2400 ULF shipped to Denmark, with out of EU import duties, would be substantial.

I am certainly in favor of having subwoofers that can go low, but I think of this issue in terms of priorities. The first priority is to have a subwoofer (or subwoofers) that can play sufficient SPL for a particular listener down to about 20Hz. The V1800 is actually pretty strong above about 30Hz, so the OP probably won't want to give up too much mid-bass in pursuit of low-bass, particularly if he is just buying a single sub.

To me, the second priority is to have sufficient low-bass extension and SPL down into about the mid-teens, or a little lower, while still maintaining adequate mid-bass SPL. For this, subs such as the new Cap 118, the Cap 1400, the PB4000 and PB16, and the 3X12, may all work, although the Cap 118 and the 3X12 will work much better in the mid-bass, with roughly comparable low-bass, compared to the others. Subs like the PB4000 and the PB16, particularly are likely to need multiples in order to maintain both sufficient mid-bass and sufficient low-bass.

The third priority for me, after the first two priorities are satisfied, is to be able to get into and below the low-teens. But, even with the two different models of Cap 2400's, most people are likely to require dual subwoofers to maintain adequate mid-bass, while also having the very low frequencies that they are known for. That's why I nearly always (always, actually) recommend dual Cap 2400's.

I don't think that most of us can afford to just look at the low-frequencies, in isolation, and judge our subwoofer requirements based on that. I honestly do believe that we have to start with satisfying the first priority, and then seeing how far under that first priority we can afford to go. For most of us that will probably require at least dual subwoofers, until we get to the Cap 4000, and even then, duals would be better.

In the OP's case, I believe that either a single JTR Cap 118HT, or a single XTZ 3X12, would be a better choice than either single model of Cap 2400. And, if he can find a local dealer, which is probable, the XTZ comes with a free 60-day trial period, and local customer support. I enjoy recommending JTR subwoofers, when they seem appropriate for the individual, and I particularly enjoy recommending the low-frequency models. But in this case, if I were the OP, I think that I would have to take a hard look at the 3X12.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

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post #9796 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweet Jimmy View Post
JTR offers automotive paint finishing. So I had no idea what to do when confronted with this choice as I'd never had an automotive paint option before. So I tried to think of cars I'd seen before that I liked the look of. I remembered seeing a 2016 Infiniti QX50 in Malbec Black that I liked. It looks like piano black except for when a good dose of light is put to it, then you see some purple come out. So I chose that. It really was an odd process but I think it worked out. There are just so many options when you've got years and years of car color choices available. A bit overwhelming if you're not accustomed to it.
got it - so this might be a silly question but how do you find out what automotive colors/finishes are available? Just check the different car websites?
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post #9797 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by cannga View Post
Hi Mike, good point as usual, but for better or for worse , owner sounds like the type who would promptly test the new subwoofer with Edge of Tomorrow, and for that I'm afraid the XTZ may not fit the bill.

Looking at XTZ 3x12 CEA numbers, it's actually closer to new JTR 118HT, and IMHO even though the PSA 1800 numbers are not known, XTZ is not far superior enough to be considered a decisive upward move, especially one who is going to play with ULF:
10 NA, 12.5 Hz 97 dB, 16 Hz 106 dB, 20 Hz 111.5 dB, 25 Hz 115.5 dB

Bottom line, *if* ultra low bass is what you are looking for, there is no comparison between 2400 (98.8 dB at 10 Hz) and XTZ (not available). Another interesting point, new JTR 118HT is at $1500 sale, XTZ is at $2500.

Looks like the new 118HT has a 5.9dB advantage over the 2400 in the 63-80 Hz range. So its got effectively twice as much max output in that area? Dual 118HT is basically equivalent to quad 2400s up high? To me the tradeoffs taken to push the 2400 down to lower frequencies is quite substantial. Obviously choices are good and you can chose either or a different option.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
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post #9798 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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@Pradeep2 , yes of course choices. A tongue-in-cheek simplification: 118HT = bassheads, 2400 = crazy bassheads. I have repeated times and again, I would recommend the 118HT to my brother, a "normal" person, over the 2400, without reservation. Bottom line is, can't go wrong with either, IMHO.

The only thing I would like to add is, you are likely running out of headroom at 12 Hz (say 97 dB for 118HT) way before you do at 60 Hz (say 120 dB for 2400). For example I barely pass 100 Hz for most of my movie watching, so my system would see 97 dB a lot, but would never reach 120 dB.

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post #9799 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 12:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madhuski View Post
got it - so this might be a silly question but how do you find out what automotive colors/finishes are available? Just check the different car websites?
Yes, any color, any car. Honda, Porsche, Ferrari, your imagination is the limit. Metallic finish is ok and extra nice for the parkle in the corner IMHO. Once you decide on color, there is a code that Jeff tells the painter.

I really DO treasure my Porsche Carmin Red finish JTR 1400. It's gorgeous and shinny :-).
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post #9800 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 12:05 PM
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How about flip flop paint. I love that purple to green color.

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post #9801 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FattyMcButterPants View Post
If mine were like that I wouldn’t be worried. Some variation makes sense to me. Mine have like a 60 degree difference in how they are set, which seems like quite a lot and made me wonder.


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Here’s pics of the gain on my 1400’s, 10ish and 12 for the same spl, 2 clicks diff.
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post #9802 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by madhuski View Post
very nice looking. What’s malbec black? is it different than piano black?
JTR offers automotive paint finishing. So I had no idea what to do when confronted with this choice as I'd never had an automotive paint option before. So I tried to think of cars I'd seen before that I liked the look of. I remembered seeing a 2016 Infiniti QX50 in Malbec Black that I liked. It looks like piano black except for when a good dose of light is put to it, then you see some purple come out. So I chose that. It really was an odd process but I think it worked out. There are just so many options when you've got years and years of car color choices available. A bit overwhelming if you're not accustomed to it.
Hah! I’m right now heading off to an automotive finish shop to pick up a few paint samples. I already picked up 4 samples but not totally convinced with any of them. Looking for dark burnt orange or brown copper metallic.
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post #9803 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 01:03 PM
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got it - so this might be a silly question but how do you find out what automotive colors/finishes are available? Just check the different car websites?
Yes, any color, any car. Honda, Porsche, Ferrari, your imagination is the limit. Metallic finish is ok and extra nice for the parkle in the corner IMHO. Once you decide on color, there is a code that Jeff tells the painter.

I really DO treasure my Porsche Carmin Red finish JTR 1400. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/redface.gif[/IMG] It's gorgeous and shinny &#x1f642;.
It’s an inspiration for getting the custom finish. Very well done.
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post #9804 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 01:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tojo_m View Post
Hah! I’m right now heading off to an automotive finish shop to pick up a few paint samples. I already picked up 4 samples but not totally convinced with any of them. Looking for dark burnt orange or brown copper metallic.
Porsche Nordic Gold Metallic?

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post #9805 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 01:53 PM
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Porsche Nordic Gold Metallic?


“People say nothing is impossible, but I do nothing every day.”― A.A. Milne, Winnie-the-Pooh
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post #9806 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 02:55 PM
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Ill probably miss the August intro price cause ill be buying in september but Ill still be able to take advantage of the 10% off september intro price.
Please contact to Jeff. Jeff can accommodate a later shipping date. I have seen some pay half up front and the remaining when products are shipped. Therefore, there is no way that you can't take advantage of the 15% off intro price.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
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FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #9807 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Sweet Jimmy View Post
Couple more pics of the 2400 ULF in malbec black. Got cork/rubber blocks under all four corners. Blocks have cloth over them to help protect the finish. Experienced some hum and inconsistent auto on/off behavior which I fixed by installing a cheater plug which is plugged into a volt correction unit. Maybe this is dangerous but it works. Perfectly quiet now with appropriate auto on/off behavior.

I don't need to tell anyone how much more power and authority this has than my SVS PB12NSD subs. I have all of the measuring equipment and someday I'll get around to using it. But this thing is a beauty and I'll order a matching unit within a year's time.
Dang, that finish is awesome!

I would actually flip the 2400ULF so that the port and the driver are not blocked by the popcorn chart. You also get more port wind and TR. Then again, you might be doing this because you want to protect the driver?

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #9808 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweet Jimmy View Post
Couple more pics of the 2400 ULF in malbec black. Got cork/rubber blocks under all four corners. Blocks have cloth over them to help protect the finish. Experienced some hum and inconsistent auto on/off behavior which I fixed by installing a cheater plug which is plugged into a volt correction unit. Maybe this is dangerous but it works. Perfectly quiet now with appropriate auto on/off behavior.

I don't need to tell anyone how much more power and authority this has than my SVS PB12NSD subs. I have all of the measuring equipment and someday I'll get around to using it. But this thing is a beauty and I'll order a matching unit within a year's time.
it looks fantastic!
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post #9809 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Thomasdk1405 View Post
Hi
and I live in Denmark - I'm also on the "fence" - I would have to pay for the 230 v amp ($300 extra) + shipping to Denmark and then nasty import tax - guess I will end up in $3400 for this new Cap 2400 - yikes. But my current sub cannot play the 50 cal scene in Hurtlocker like my old pb 13 ultra could nor the monument scene in Olympus has fallen. I know not many subs can do that and also not many movies has scenes like this. But from what I read here - no worries you can crank the volume up and not fear for any damage to the sub - maybe only your house

Sent Jeff a mail and will wait for answer what this thing would cost me all in all.
Maybe a divorce is also coming up - ha ha ha that will also be expensive.

Anyone here went from PSA sub to JTR - I have the V1800 now and I kind of miss something around 20hz and down - from 30hz and up it plays fine ?!

Have a nice day everyone.
Hmmm, Olympic Has Fallen - Monument scene you say?

Screen capture of the spl with my Cap 1400:



Video of my Cap 4000ULF:


Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #9810 of 13412 Old 08-25-2018, 03:44 PM
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How high is the volume on the receiver when playing back this one?


Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
Hmmm, Olympic Has Fallen - Monument scene you say?

Screen capture of the spl with my Cap 1400:



Video of my Cap 4000ULF:

https://youtu.be/tA8WkBljmaM
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