Official JTR Speakers Subwoofer Thread - Page 352 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10531 of 12723 Old 10-10-2018, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
I’m really bad at sensing sarcasm. Lol, so if that is some it’s over my head.

I’ll figure out something.
Sorry, I was just tryinfg to get a mental image of what it was you were talking about. Do you mean like a chock between the sub and seating?

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post #10532 of 12723 Old 10-10-2018, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by djreef View Post
Sorry, I was just tryinfg to get a mental image of what it was you were talking about. Do you mean like a chock between the sub and seating?

DJ
Because the driver and the port are pointed toward the back of the chair, the sub has a tendency to slide backwards away from the chair and toward the wall behind it. I think he meant to put small block of wood between the sub and the wall behind it. Doing so can also protect the subwoofer cable.

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post #10533 of 12723 Old 10-10-2018, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
Because the driver and the port are pointed toward the back of the chair, the sub has a tendency to slide backwards away from the chair and toward the wall behind it. I think he meant to put small block of wood between the sub and the wall behind it. Doing so can also protect the subwoofer cable.
Ya, but wouldn’t that also transfer resonant energy to the baseboards and then throughout the room through the walls. I don’t think that’d work very well.

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post #10534 of 12723 Old 10-10-2018, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by djreef View Post
Ya, but wouldn’t that also transfer resonant energy to the baseboards and then throughout the room through the walls. I don’t think that’d work very well.

DJ
Might not. I'll figure out something.

They don't really move though. I have the gains set 1/4 of the way right now.

There's also a massive power cable sticking out of the wall behind them, connected to my Furman unit.
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post #10535 of 12723 Old 10-10-2018, 06:32 PM
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IME, I have found one of these https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-...9221392&sr=1-3 cut to size under the subwoofers stops any chance of sliding around. In my case,after being under my subs for a year or so - I had to peel it of the tiles lol

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post #10536 of 12723 Old 10-11-2018, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by djreef View Post
Ya, but wouldn’t that also transfer resonant energy to the baseboards and then throughout the room through the walls. I don’t think that’d work very well.

DJ
These subs are inert enough that this would not be an issue. The wall will flex more from the displacement of the system than the actual boxes' physical vibrations. I don't know how many times a few of us have to reiterate this.

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post #10537 of 12723 Old 10-11-2018, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post
These subs are inert enough that this would not be an issue. The wall will flex more from the displacement of the system than the actual boxes' physical vibrations. I don't know how many times a few of us have to reiterate this.
If they’re so inert then why do they ‘walk’ across the floor.

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post #10538 of 12723 Old 10-11-2018, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by djreef View Post
If they’re so inert then why do they ‘walk’ across the floor.

DJ
The sheer force of the driver(s) moving back and forth will cause the cabinet to "walk" a little bit for sure. The only way to completely avoid this is by going with a dual-opposed style of build, or making an extremely heavy enclosure that outweighs the motor force of the driver in the box itself. My point was that too many folks think that these slight amount of "walk" is what is making their suspended floor, and walls, and ceilings shake. It's not, this is due to the displacement of the system almost entirely. Again, you'll get a little transmitted vibrations from the box that may be localized right around where it sits, but your suggestion to chuck the box to hold it in place is a good one, and won't result in much more if any additional wall shake than what is already happening.

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post #10539 of 12723 Old 10-11-2018, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by djreef View Post
If they’re so inert then why do they ‘walk’ across the floor.

DJ

FWIW, I think that we may be trying to talk a little too much in absolutes. The cabinets are relatively inert. But, the fact is that decoupling a subwoofer from a suspended wood floor may slightly reduce vibrations transferred directly from the subwoofer cabinet to the floor. And, the same thing could be true with respect to putting a subwoofer cabinet in direct physical contact with a wall or a baseboard. Some vibrations could be directly transferred from the cabinet to the wall.

But, those transferred vibrations would pale in comparison to the effect of high SPL, at the right frequencies, creating sympathetic resonances in adjacent structures or accessories, such as in a light array, or an AC vent, or china in a cabinet. I think that it's important to understand the relative magnitude of the effects of bass SPL and transferred vibrations, and personal experimentation in a room will help to establish that. Bass SPL will always be a much more significant factor, but that doesn't mean that transferred vibrations are always completely irrelevant.

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post #10540 of 12723 Old 10-11-2018, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by djreef View Post
If they’re so inert then why do they ‘walk’ across the floor.

DJ
The walking has nothing to do with how inert the subwoofers are. It's because there is not enough friction between the surfaces.

The youtube video of Cap 1400 walking on Subdude is because the cabinet is finished in custom wood veneer with a smooth surface. Therefore, there is not enough friction between the cabinet and the Subdude surface that the cabinet comes into contact with. The sheer force of the driver, and that the port is only a few inches from the leather sofa, made the cabinet glide on top of the Subdude. If the cabinet were in stock finish, or if it has feet, then there should be enough friction.

My 4000ULF moved on carpet after use because I have 4 furniture sliders under the sub. I put a sheet of 1/2 inch foam sheet behind the sub to prevent it from bumping into the wall. I believe ScottieBoysName wanted to try putting a block of wood behind his 2400ULF so that there is enough clearance and the cable connectors don't get kinked/damaged.
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Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

Last edited by chucky7; 10-12-2018 at 12:05 AM.
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post #10541 of 12723 Old 10-12-2018, 08:32 AM
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Hi guys, I'm thinking to ask Jeff to install feet for the 2400 my question is if it won't dance on the floor since it on feet? (is it detachable)?
Also, he said he can provide some stick on feet?

anyone did that or can show me how it would look?
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post #10542 of 12723 Old 10-12-2018, 09:28 AM
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Hi guys, I'm thinking to ask Jeff to install feet for the 2400 my question is if it won't dance on the floor since it on feet? (is it detachable)?
Also, he said he can provide some stick on feet?

anyone did that or can show me how it would look?
How loud do you listen?
What is the distance between the sub and the MLP?
What kind of flooring do you have?

My 1400 does not have feet by default. My 4000ULF does. The feet use bolts. So if you ask for feet and end up not using them, you will have 4 holes at the bottom of the port which you have to seal up with flat headed screw/bolt.

Personally, I don't want feet when I am still moving the sub around. It's easier to put the sub on a slider without feet. I would rather put the feet on AFTER I have decided on its final location.

The advantage of the stick on feet are that they don't leave holes if you decide not to use them down the road. This is why most bookshelf speakers have stick on feet.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

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post #10543 of 12723 Old 10-12-2018, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
How loud do you listen?
What is the distance between the sub and the MLP?
What kind of flooring do you have?

My 1400 does not have feet by default. My 4000ULF does. The feet use bolts. So if you ask for feet and end up not using them, you will have 4 holes at the bottom of the port which you have to seal up with flat headed screw/bolt.

Personally, I don't want feet when I am still moving the sub around. It's easier to put the sub on a slider without feet. I would rather put the feet on AFTER I have decided on its final location.

The advantage of the stick on feet are that they don't leave holes if you decide not to use them down the road. This is why most bookshelf speakers have stick on feet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by asafalfa View Post
Hi guys, I'm thinking to ask Jeff to install feet for the 2400 my question is if it won't dance on the floor since it on feet? (is it detachable)?
Also, he said he can provide some stick on feet?

anyone did that or can show me how it would look?

The only issue with the stick on feet (at least for me) is the ones I got from Jeff are small and just don't seem up to the task of holding such a heavy subwoofer. Maybe they are fine, but to me they seem very small. I would want a bit heavier duty and bigger. But again, that's my opinion and what I have come across.

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post #10544 of 12723 Old 10-12-2018, 10:25 AM
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
How loud do you listen?
What is the distance between the sub and the MLP?
What kind of flooring do you have?

My 1400 does not have feet by default. My 4000ULF does. The feet use bolts. So if you ask for feet and end up not using them, you will have 4 holes at the bottom of the port which you have to seal up with flat headed screw/bolt.

Personally, I don't want feet when I am still moving the sub around. It's easier to put the sub on a slider without feet. I would rather put the feet on AFTER I have decided on its final location.

The advantage of the stick on feet are that they don't leave holes if you decide not to use them down the road. This is why most bookshelf speakers have stick on feet.

What is the distance between the sub and the MLP?
-about 5.5 Meter +/-
-85dB average on most of the stuff I listen and 95-100dB peaks here

About the floor, it's concrete Floor.

I guess I will tell him that I will stay with the stick on feet. the problem is what happened if we want to clean the floor with water ...
I guess I will have to raise it at some point ...
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post #10545 of 12723 Old 10-12-2018, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 04rex View Post
The only issue with the stick on feet (at least for me) is the ones I got from Jeff are small and just don't seem up to the task of holding such a heavy subwoofer. Maybe they are fine, but to me they seem very small. I would want a bit heavier duty and bigger. But again, that's my opinion and what I have come across.
Are these big enough?

https://www.amazon.ca/uxcell-Conical...ds=bumper+feet

https://www.amazon.ca/Conical-Recess...ds=bumper+feet

https://www.amazon.ca/Reliable-Hardw...ds=bumper+feet

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #10546 of 12723 Old 10-12-2018, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asafalfa View Post
What is the distance between the sub and the MLP?
-about 5.5 Meter +/-
-85dB average on most of the stuff I listen and 95-100dB peaks here

About the floor, it's concrete Floor.

I guess I will tell him that I will stay with the stick on feet. the problem is what happened if we want to clean the floor with water ...
I guess I will have to raise it at some point ...
In your case, the screw on feet seem to be more practical. You would need to get furniture slider for hardwood floor. You would need to lift the sub up and put the sliders under the feet only when you want to move the sub around.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #10547 of 12723 Old 10-12-2018, 10:38 AM
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Well hell yeah they are! But those you need to screw in. Are there stick on feet like that? I like to move things around and switch things up sometimes, so I wouldn't want to screw anything into the sub just in case I decide to change the room layout or something.

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post #10548 of 12723 Old 10-12-2018, 10:40 AM
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Thank you Charlie,
The last example looks exactly like the feet that were used for the ulf4000 with bolts?

by the way, if you remove them that means that you have 4 holes that interfering the seal off the sub? or it's just a closed hole for the bolt, in that case, why do you care about it, no one will see that since it under the sub
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post #10549 of 12723 Old 10-12-2018, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 04rex View Post
Well hell yeah they are! But those you need to screw in. Are there stick on feet like that? I like to move things around and switch things up sometimes, so I wouldn't want to screw anything into the sub just in case I decide to change the room layout or something.
Some stick on feet... However, the prices make you think that the Subdude is a bargain...

https://www.amazon.ca/Isolate-Sorbot...ds=bumper+feet

https://www.amazon.ca/Isolate-Sorbot...ds=bumper+feet

https://www.amazon.ca/Isolate-Sorbot...ds=bumper+feet

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #10550 of 12723 Old 10-12-2018, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asafalfa View Post
The last example looks exactly like the feet that were used for the ulf4000 with bolts?
Yes, indeed.

Time to rehash one of my earlier post: JTR Cap 4000ULF and its stock feet:

Threaded insert with flat-head socket cap screw installed: This is what I have now.


threaded insert with flat-head socket cap screw unscrewed half way:


threaded insert:


foot installed:


foot installed side view:


Quote:
Originally Posted by asafalfa View Post
by the way, if you remove them that means that you have 4 holes that interfering the seal off the sub? or it's just a closed hole for the bolt, in that case, why do you care about it, no one will see that since it under the sub
If you remove the feet, you would need to install flat-head socket cap screws shown in the first picture. Without the screws, you would have air leaks along the port at the bottom of the sub. When you seal the holes with screws and have the sub upright, you won't see anything.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

Last edited by chucky7; 03-19-2019 at 10:21 AM.
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post #10551 of 12723 Old 10-12-2018, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
Yes, indeed.

Time to rehash one of my earlier post: JTR Cap 4000ULF and its stock feet:

Threaded insert with flat-head socket cap screw installed: This is what I have now.


threaded insert with flat-head socket cap screw unscrewed half way:


threaded insert:


foot installed:


foot installed side view:



If you remove the feet, you would need to install flat-head socket cap screws shown in the first picture. Without the screws, you would have air leaks along the port at the bottom of the sub. When you seal the holes with screws and have the sub upright, you won't seen anything.

Got it! Thank you :
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post #10552 of 12723 Old 10-12-2018, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
Those feet are real squishy, and the sticky part don’t stick too good - to the point that every time you move the box they rub off on the floor underneath.

Just bite the bullet and get the screw on ones.

DJ

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post #10553 of 12723 Old 10-12-2018, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by djreef View Post
Those feet are real squishy, and the sticky part don’t stick too good - to the point that every time you move the box they rub off on the floor underneath.

Just bite the bullet and get the screw on ones.

DJ
So you saying that it will be better with feet? like the ulf4000
Worst case i will close the holes with flat screw that will do the job
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post #10554 of 12723 Old 10-12-2018, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asafalfa View Post
So you saying that it will be better with feet? like the ulf4000
Worst case i will close the holes with flat screw that will do the job

To me, the biggest advantage in having feet on a large subwoofer is not to decouple a subwoofer from the floor, or even to keep it from sliding. Putting something like a yoga mat (as Jamie suggested) or a rubbery carpet pad, under the subwoofer will keep it from sliding. But, the feet can elevate the sub just enough to let you get your fingers under it to lift it, tilt it, or whatever. That helps if you ever do want to move it or to put something under it.

On the other hand, unless the feet are very sturdy, the sub won't slide well on the feet. The squishy/tacky ones would especially not hold-up well for that. In that case, I think that putting furniture sliders under the feet would be a real plus, if you ever needed to move the subs. People with new subwoofers sometimes forget that the initial positioning of the subs is only part of it. Even if the placement never changes, you may find yourself moving the subwoofer in order to make adjustments to the amplifier. There are a number of settings that you may sometimes need access to. Just some random thoughts on the pros and cons of feet of different types.

Regards,
Mike
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* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #10555 of 12723 Old 10-12-2018, 07:29 PM
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I know it’s an older model, but I’m listening to some music on my 1400’s right now, and OMG do they bring the goods!! I can’t believe how quick and nimble they are with this beefy driver, it’s incredible IMHO. Very much enjoying these beasts, they are delivering everything I had hoped and more!


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post #10556 of 12723 Old 10-12-2018, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FattyMcButterPants View Post
I know it’s an older model, but I’m listening to some music on my 1400’s right now, and OMG do they bring the goods!! I can’t believe how quick and nimble they are with this beefy driver, it’s incredible IMHO. Very much enjoying these beasts, they are delivering everything I had hoped and more!
Yep.

Even at it's regular price of $2199 + shipping, it was still the best in terms of output per dollar, SQ, extension and TR.

Boy, does it shine in my room!

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #10557 of 12723 Old 10-13-2018, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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...



Fantastic chart. Thank you.

@Jeff Permanian (hi), looking at the cost, I still feel like the 1400 fills a gap (price wise). The big gap between 118 and 2400. But I guess Jeff has the data to support stopping 1400 production.
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My System & Theta Casablanca Mini-Review (CB IVa setup help HERE) Uncontrolled passion for music, and sound.
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JTR Subwoofer Thread I don't always listen to subwoofers, but when I do, it's JTR :-).

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post #10558 of 12723 Old 10-13-2018, 08:01 PM
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I just got my new 2400 delivered acouple days ago and heres some of my thoughts. The 2400 sounds loud and great across the full fz range it hits with authority all the way down to 10hz and never loses its power and punch its really an earthquake generator  It is interesting to me that the sub sounds better right next to my couch then in front by the wall where I initially wanted to put it I havent done a sub crawl and I honestly dont know the best settings I ran audessy on my denon 4400h and it wanted me to lower gain until it hits 75db I put gain all the way down and it still was hitting 84db I ended up setting the gain at 12 oclock and   the crossover at 80 hz in the beggining I had reciever set at -9db but I set it at 0db and set sub to mains +lfe. The sub sounds great with music it has clean tight bass and the whole room fills with sound the explosions in movies and games sound deep and the whole house shakes it sounds great at low volume and the highest volume I listened to it was 90db on the avr and it pressurizes the room nicely I watched hacksaw ridge and it sounds incredible you can feel every shot and explosion I now experience movies instead of just watching them when watching movies and playing games it feels really like youre there I never heard anything like it I used to think my klipsch rp280fs sounded great on bass scenes but this subwoofer makes the klipsch towers sound as if they didnt have any bass at all the difference is night and day There is hidden bass in movies and games I hadnt heard before I now have to rewatch every movie this sub has this pulsating bass that comes in waves I dont know if Im explaining it correctly  but you feel every explosion and gun shot With lots of port wind I watched the 1979 alien movie and the end scene where the woman turns on thruster or something it sounded like Im taking off in a shuttle I do have the subwoofer about 8 inches from my couch on one side and it really feels like a universal studios theme park ride I am now thinking I will get a second 2400 to put on the other side of the couch so that all seats in the house will be able to experience the insanity I havent really took too much time to make all the adjustments and get all the settings just right But so far its better than any imax theater I been to and with music I feel like Im at a club. I'm really impressed with the sub. Thanks to everyone who helped me make the decision to get a jtr sub
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post #10559 of 12723 Old 10-13-2018, 08:52 PM
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Here are some pics

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5h7j90iqf17px4z/Photo%20Oct%2008%2C%206%2001%2038%20PM.jpg?dl=0


https://www.dropbox.com/s/wnzbxh0tqbnhrbj/Photo%20Oct%2008%2C%206%2008%2041%20PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b5enhofs0svvi6p/Photo%20Oct%2008%2C%206%2009%2009%20PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ze5g5afxw47bb79/Photo%20Oct%2008%2C%206%2003%2028%20PM.jpg?dl=0
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post #10560 of 12723 Old 10-14-2018, 12:58 AM
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I fixed it for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobZealand View Post
I just got my new 2400 delivered a couple days ago and here's some of my thoughts.

The 2400 sounds loud and great across the full frequency range. It hits with authority all the way down to 10 Hz and never loses its power and punch. It's really an earthquake generator.  It is interesting to me that the sub sounds better right next to my couch then in front by the wall where I initially wanted to put it. I haven't done a sub crawl and I honestly don't know the best settings I ran Audessy on my Denon 4400H and it wanted me to lower gain until it hits 75 dB. I put gain all the way down and it still was hitting 84 dB. I ended up setting the gain at 12 o'clock and the crossover at 80 Hz. In the beginning I had reciever set at -9 dB but I set it at 0 dB and set sub to mains + LFE.

The sub sounds great with music. It has clean tight bass and the whole room fills with sound. The explosions in movies and games sound deep and the whole house shakes. It sounds great at low volume and the highest volume I listened to it was 90 dB on the AVR and it pressurizes the room nicely.

I watched Hacksaw Ridge and it sounds incredible. You can feel every shot and explosion. I now experience movies instead of just watching them. When watching movies and playing games, it feels really like you're there. I never heard anything like it. I used to think my Klipsch RP280FS sounded great on bass scenes but this subwoofer makes the Klipsch towers sound as if they didn't have any bass at all. The difference is night and day. There is hidden bass in movies and games I hadn't heard before. I now have to rewatch every movie. This sub has this pulsating bass that comes in waves. I don't know if I'm explaining it correctly, but you feel every explosion and gun shot with lots of port wind.

I watched the 1979 Alien movie and the end scene where the woman turns on thrustor or something, it sounded like I'm taking off in a shuttle. I do have the subwoofer about 8 inches from my couch on one side and it really feels like a Universal Studios theme park ride. I am now thinking I will get a second 2400 to put on the other side of the couch, so that all seats in the house will be able to experience the insanity.

I haven't really took too much time to make all the adjustments and get all the settings just right. But so far its better than any Imax theater I been to and with music I feel like I'm at a club. I'm really impressed with the sub. Thanks to everyone who helped me make the decision to get a JTR sub
Let me rehash a couple memes I posted before:



Can I say I told you so?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobZealand View Post
I am now thinking I will get a second 2400 to put on the other side of the couch, so that all seats in the house will be able to experience the insanity.
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Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

Last edited by chucky7; 10-14-2018 at 01:50 AM.
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