Official JTR Speakers Subwoofer Thread - Page 395 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11821 of 15393 Old 02-21-2019, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
Understand your point but there are many folks including myself successfully incorporating a couple of the 60hz tuned MBMs with much lower tuned subs. It can be challenging but with REW and a miniDSP (if needed), it is very doable.

With crazy amount of headroom in two OS’s and two 4000’s, out of phase might be better for the extra TR at lower spl listening level - Win win . I know a few guys in the Midbass thread that actually run their mbm out of phase on purpose to gain much more TR at much lower listening level
There is so much headroom, the best way to do it, is to run the 4000's up to say 35-40hz and the OS's go up to cutoff. I had sooooo many subs over the years, trying everything I could to get the mid-bass slam I craved. In the end, I decided on 2 x OS pros and my current 4 x 24's and 4 x 18's. The OS pros go from 90hz to 40hz and the 24's and 18's do 40hz to 5hz. There is so much headroom, theres no point having everything running at once and the complications of running different types of subs, it's just not needed.
The OS pros made my system into something I haven't even though about changing in the last few years (also 215's, 210, S8's x 4, Volt 6's x 4)
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post #11822 of 15393 Old 02-21-2019, 04:29 PM
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^^ I keep you in mind. Where are you in Canada again @N8DOGG ?
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post #11823 of 15393 Old 02-21-2019, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
^^^

I think that there is a recurring theme on this thread, the PSA thread, and on Ray's comparison thread. And that recurring theme involves the issue of what subwoofers "hit hardest" in the mid-bass region, versus what subwoofers develop the most low bass SPL and TR. When some of us talk about Orbit Shifters, or V3611's, or even powerful sealed subs hitting hard in the mid-bass frequencies, I believe that we are talking primarily about high mid-bass volume levels, proportional to the low-bass volume levels, and to the low-bass TR which may accompany them.

I think that it's the relative proportions that may make more mid-bass or more low-bass appealing to us. And, some people may want very high volume levels, and very high mid-bass volume levels. Horns seem especially well-suited to that interest.

Chest punch, which is a mid-bass tactile phenomenon, seems to be mainly the product of high mid-bass SPL, although ported mid-bass modules with high tuning points (50Hz or higher) seem to be able to add significant particle velocity to augment the chest punch sensations. Low-bass tactile sensations, however, are definitely not just the product of low-bass SPL. If they were, then equivalent SPL at about 15 or 16Hz would make ported and sealed subs feel the same. And, they don't.

The reason that I think that these discussions keep occurring without any clear resolution, is because there are inherently different preferences at work among the people involved. Some people prefer moderate volume levels, or louder volume levels, with a reasonable balance of mid-bass and low-bass. Some people prefer bass, especially for music, which biases volume levels toward relatively more (or proportionally more, if that makes it clearer) mid-bass SPL and chest punch. They are looking for subwoofers which "hit harder".

Still others prefer mid-bass levels which are more moderate and which are tied more to the overall master volume level, especially for movie viewing, with low-bass SPL and TR which are proportionally higher. Those people may want to hear and feel more of the deep rumbling, thudding sensations associated with special effects in many movies. And, they may want those effects to stand-out more in relation to the overall volume level.

We often seem to expect to achieve some kind of consensus with respect to which subwoofers are best, when the real issue is that we can't achieve consensus with respect to our individual preferences. Those of us who have been in the hobby for a while start to develop a pretty good sense of our own preferences, and then we can select subwoofers which align well with those preferences. But, I think that we all tend to think that others would share our personal preferences, if only they could hear the systems that we hear, in the rooms in which we listen.

And, I just don't believe that's true. Even at GTG's, some inherent preferences still remain. I think that our individual preferences will always be sufficiently different that some people will choose subwoofers with greater mid-bass capabilities, or greater low-bass SPL and TR capabilities. And, I think that still other people won't care that much, and will select subwoofers which have a somewhat arbitrary and unnoticed balance between the two.

I think that low-tuned JTR ported subwoofers, and PSA ported subwoofers (with their much higher port tunes) represent a great dichotomy in that respect. Some people will undoubtedly gravitate toward the relatively stronger mid-bass of the PSA subs, some people will gravitate toward the relatively stronger low-bass of the JTR subs, and some people will neither notice nor care very much about which is which. To a lesser extent, we could compare Orbit Shifters and Cap 4000ULF's that way. The contrast between the two might not be quite as strong, but it would still exist.

I think the more we recognize that we are really talking about diversity of individual preference, as much as we are talking about differences in subwoofer capabilities, the more that we can provide context for these discussions on all of the threads.

Regards,
Mike
These I think are some of the wisest words I've read in a while. And I've been thinking about some of this in the last week as I've been comparing the V3601's to the 2400ULFs in my mind. As I said in Ray's thread, in many ways its a comparison that is apple to oranges. Oh sure, both are ported subs, but they are ported subs with a focus on different goals and therefore will appeal to different people. I'll be tackling that in Rays thread sometime next week (hopefully). Anyway... good post Mike.
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post #11824 of 15393 Old 02-21-2019, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
^^ I keep you in mind. Where are you in Canada again @N8DOGG ?
Winnipeg! I actually just had a guy from HT shack over a few hours ago to listen to the 215s. His "horns suck" opinion changed into a "thats the best sounding speaker Ive ever heard" hahahaha
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post #11825 of 15393 Old 02-21-2019, 06:35 PM
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For any of you guys that aren't familiar with the OS Pro that Nathan is talking about, it is truly the king of midbass when it comes to non DIY designs.

Look at this comparison of the OS pro to the OS LFU:





Insane.

I asked Jeff once what he uses for listening to music and I can't remember which speaker but said he paired them with OS pros.
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post #11826 of 15393 Old 02-21-2019, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MinnesotaGreg View Post
And the dude should dig a sump pit in the lowered section too and plumb it out. You'd think that's where all the water would end up. Actually I don't see how its going to work at all by only lowering the 3rd row area, it seems the entire floor would need to be lower otherwise the 3rd row people will be looking at the back heads of 2nd row folks.
I wasn't thinking when I said he's lowering the area of the 3rd row, obviously that's not what he's doing. I was just thinking about the end result. He's doing it right, sump pit etc. are in these pictures in this post.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...l#post57439602
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post #11827 of 15393 Old 02-21-2019, 06:46 PM
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The OS Pro looks like a heavy metal music lovers dream.
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post #11828 of 15393 Old 02-21-2019, 07:09 PM
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The OS Pro looks like a heavy metal music lovers dream.
This would be fun with an OS pro or 2:

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post #11829 of 15393 Old 02-21-2019, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by carp View Post
This would be fun with an OS pro or 2:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsTsLW28d8A

Yes! Good ol Dave Lombardo.
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post #11830 of 15393 Old 02-21-2019, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
How big is your new theater? I remember listening to your 3 OS LFU’s with those JTR speakers behind your screen at your old place, it was already LOUD and you are adding a fourth one it seem
I am curious if it is better to run two 4000’s and two OS’s together than 4 OS’s?
The new space is approx 1600sq ft and just over 12K cu ft in volume. It will be a theater, bar and rec area all on one large room. 4 OS should be fun. You might be able to mix those subs but I most listen really loud for music not movies so the horns make more sense for me. Plus probably get enough room gain the natural response will likely rise all the way to port tune of about 22hz. Still pretty low.
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post #11831 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 05:58 AM
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Great news guys. Actually two great pieces of news.



1. Jeff just sent me an email and let me know the replacement amp is on its way (thanks Jeff). I'm happy to see this get remedied. Will I need to remove the driver to get access to the wiring to install this amp? Anyone know?



2. My ground loop issue has been remedied using the Blue Jeans isolator. So that issue is solved as well.



This has turned out to be a great day.


Glad to hear your situation is resolved. We can expect a review in the very near future then? Being an owner of dual v3601’s I’m very interested in your opinion.


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post #11832 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by sonicgroove View Post
I feel like your place might just detach from the earth if not shift the orbit itself.
let me fix that one for you- "if not sh1t the orbit itself" is the correct statement.

i can only imagine how that brain-fcuking contraption will sound. did you notify fema about your setup? you should. so they have the proper plan in place in case one of your kids swings the volume to places you boldly have decided not to go.
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post #11833 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 09:32 AM
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I have a PA system with dual JBL EON 518s. If I decide to upgrade those I'll probably consider replacing it with the OS (if I can ever find a pair) so I have a reason to have both the 4ks and the OS.

-groovin
For a PA setup, OS pros for sure...still in production.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
^^^

I think that there is a recurring theme on this thread....
Very excellent words Mike, as always. You are correct about the port tunings and the polarity shift around them. As much of a headache as it is already to get good response in room, adding that to the mix is something I would only suggest people with intimate knowledge of phase, room modes, crossover filters, and extensive expertise with room EQ and measurement need even attempt. With that said....


Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post
There is so much headroom, the best way to do it, is to run the 4000's up to say 35-40hz and the OS's go up to cutoff.
This guy^^^ knows what he's doing. Nate, Luke (Lukeamdman) and I, having been through seemingly dozens of sub configurations each all are now running some type of horn variant for the main "Meat" of the bass passband, with a different set of drivers/subs handling the ULF. We have all three essentially discovered that in our spaces that a cross of the horn to whatever we supplement down low tends to be somewhere in the vicinity of mid 30hz to 40hz. We also all three have seemingly found a very happy place that escaped us for many years before. Best of both worlds? You betcha. Does it take some extra work and a lot of measuring and tweaking to get it all to play nicely? You double-betcha.

To not go unnoticed with all of the above, not a single one of us overlap our different sub systems to attempt to make them play the same frequencies. As Nate said, let the subs do what they are best at. I would never suggest running 2 OS alongside 2 4k's unless doing just what Nate outlined, and spending that kinda coin on some 4k's just to run up to 35-40hz is, well, probably not in most people's best interest around here.

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post #11834 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post
There is so much headroom, the best way to do it, is to run the 4000's up to say 35-40hz and the OS's go up to cutoff. I had sooooo many subs over the years, trying everything I could to get the mid-bass slam I craved. In the end, I decided on 2 x OS pros and my current 4 x 24's and 4 x 18's. The OS pros go from 90hz to 40hz and the 24's and 18's do 40hz to 5hz. There is so much headroom, theres no point having everything running at once and the complications of running different types of subs, it's just not needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post
As Nate said, let the subs do what they are best at. I would never suggest running 2 OS alongside 2 4k's unless doing just what Nate outlined, and spending that kinda coin on some 4k's just to run up to 35-40hz is, well, probably not in most people's best interest around here.

Based on what @N8DOGG and @beastaudio said above, 2 4000ULF's and 2 OS's as I was thinking are better than 4 OS's IMO. For most room and most folks, instead of having 2 4000's or 2 OS's, One of each will be also better IMO. I suggested @serith here https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-subwoofers-bass-transducers/2673865-official-jtr-speakers-subwoofer-thread-372.html#post57285676 a while back to try an OS (if Jeff still builds it) with the 4000ULF(s) instead of 2 or 3 4000's he was going to get. One of each of the OS and the 4000 should satisfy him in his 1700^3 ft sealed room

Last edited by tvuong; 02-22-2019 at 02:59 PM.
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post #11835 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 03:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post
There is so much headroom, the best way to do it, is to run the 4000's up to say 35-40hz and the OS's go up to cutoff. I had sooooo many subs over the years, trying everything I could to get the mid-bass slam I craved. In the end, I decided on 2 x OS pros and my current 4 x 24's and 4 x 18's. The OS pros go from 90hz to 40hz and the 24's and 18's do 40hz to 5hz. There is so much headroom, theres no point having everything running at once and the complications of running different types of subs, it's just not needed.
The OS pros made my system into something I haven't even though about changing in the last few years (also 215's, 210, S8's x 4, Volt 6's x 4)
The system will malt your face off haha You can hit reference with a few hundred watts.
Goodness, I believe you LOL.
And congrats for having such an amazing system.
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post #11836 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 03:21 PM
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I did the opposite, I started with horn subs and ended up just letting my LFE subs do it all. Now, I am fine with 130 dB of midbass and don't need monster Horn subs for more output.

Building the room, speakers, and subs.
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post #11837 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
Based on what @N8DOGG and @beastaudio said above, 2 4000ULF's and 2 OS's as I was thinking are better than 4 OS's IMO. For most room and most folks, instead of having 2 4000's or 2 OS's, One of each will be also better IMO. I suggested @serith here https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-subwoofers-bass-transducers/2673865-official-jtr-speakers-subwoofer-thread-372.html#post57285676 a while back to try an OS (if Jeff still builds it) with the 4000ULF(s) instead of 2 or 3 4000's he was going to get. One of each of the OS and the 4000 should satisfy him in his 1700^3 ft sealed room
The problem is that Jeff doesn't build Orbit Shifer LFU any more.

Don't forget, serith doesn't do REW, so it will be very hard for him to properly integrate the Cap 4000ULF and the Orbit Shifter LFU.

Not to mention that the Orbit Shifter LFU only beats the 4000ULF above 63Hz. 2 4000ULFs combined is already 130dB+ above 32Hz.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
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post #11838 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 04:29 PM
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The OS isn’t in the current line up but that doesn’t mean that he would not build a few . ( I thought he had said that in a post a while back )
When I was thinking of a second sub , Jeff did not recommend mixing different types of subs . So I bought another OS 😎

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post #11839 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 08:07 PM
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Official JTR Speakers Subwoofer Thread

Since we’re all JTR LFE junkies in here, I thought I’d pose this question here first. I’m currently running an all JTR setup, sans overheads which are JBL SCS8s. Dual 2400ULFs on sub duty. Have a blast watching stuff so far.

Watching the first race scene in Ready Player One was a religious experience. I’ve never felt ULF/LFE like that before and combined with the image, Atmos, and general mayhem - it was awesome. I was stunned.

What other scenes have visual and sonic impact like that? What else has the total package of

1. ULF/LFE
2. Stunning Image
3. Immersive Sound
4. Aggressive Sequence

Anybody? I didn’t even feel Jurassic Park dig as deep as the swinging cannon balls in Ready Player One.

I ran the sequence for my wife and her statement was “I can’t watch an entire film with stuff that intense.”

That’s a good word for it. Intense. What else is out there?

I’ve heard the opening plane scene in Overlord is killer. I’ll check it out next.
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Anyone have experience trying to use both software to get better bass from multiple subwoofers? I have dual JTR Cap S1 subs hooked up from my Anthem Avm60 to a miniDSP 2x4HD. But after I got good PEQ settings from REW into my MiniDSP 2x4HD, I ran ARC and then frequency response turned horrible.

Does having MiniDSP 2x4HD negate the benefits of Anthem’s ARC for multiple sub calibration? Can ARC correct for only above my crossover point so I can keep the peq settings in the MiniDSP? Should I sell the MiniDSP and just use ARC to calibrate my 2 subs? I assume I need to turn off my peq settings to have ARC run effectively and vice versa?

How best to utilize the benefits of both ARC and a MiniDSP at the same time?

Thanks for any help on the two software.

Speakers: KEF R300 (R,L), KEF R600C (C), JBL 306p mkII (Surrounds), KEF Ci160QR (In-Ceiling) Subs: JTR Captivator S1 x2 Processor/Amps: Anthem AVM60, ATI AT4003, Rotel RB985 mkII Video: BenQ HT2050, 100” Screen Misc: ATV 4k, Sony PS4, Samsung K8500, MiniDSP 2x4HD, Crowson MA x2 Room: GIK treated 2500 cu sq. ft. sealed room on a suspended floor
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Tron Legacy from start to finish is a bass feast! Give a shot and tell me I'm wrong.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
Since we’re all JTR LFE junkies in here, I thought I’d pose this question here first. I’m currently running an all JTR setup, sans overheads which are JBL SCS8s. Dual 2400ULFs on sub duty. Have a blast watching stuff so far.

Watching the first race scene in Ready Player One was a religious experience. I’ve never felt ULF/LFE like that before and combined with the image, Atmos, and general mayhem - it was awesome. I was stunned.

What other scenes have visual and sonic impact like that? What else has the total package of

1. ULF/LFE
2. Stunning Image
3. Immersive Sound
4. Aggressive Sequence

Anybody? I didn’t even feel Jurassic Park dig as deep as the swinging cannon balls in Ready Player One.

I ran the sequence for my wife and her statement was “I can’t watch an entire film with stuff that intense.”

That’s a good word for it. Intense. What else is out there?

I’ve heard the opening plane scene in Overlord is killer. I’ll check it out next.
I watched Overload with some friends tonight. Yes, the first several minutes of the film were very intense in the overall impact. Was left speechless. The rest of the movie is also great, but wow the opening scenes were just a total joy to experience with some capable subs, as you have!
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Speakers: KEF R300 (R,L), KEF R600C (C), JBL 306p mkII (Surrounds), KEF Ci160QR (In-Ceiling) Subs: JTR Captivator S1 x2 Processor/Amps: Anthem AVM60, ATI AT4003, Rotel RB985 mkII Video: BenQ HT2050, 100” Screen Misc: ATV 4k, Sony PS4, Samsung K8500, MiniDSP 2x4HD, Crowson MA x2 Room: GIK treated 2500 cu sq. ft. sealed room on a suspended floor
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post #11843 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 09:03 PM
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I'm somewhat in the same situation you find yourself in and this is what I was advised by people much smarter than me.

So, run audy or Arc first and get some time alignment and speakers levels. Then, turn off ARC or audy and then measure with REW. This should be your room response with the speakers and subs with correct distances and time aligned. Check the FR and then start miniDSP and start applying filters until you get the FR you are looking for. Flat, custom house curve, big low bass, monster mid bass or whatever. Then, rerun ARC or audy because at that point you are showing the new miniDSP filters to audy or ARC. Keep audy or ARC on and take a measure from REW and see if that's what's what. If not, rinse and repeat.

I'm sure someone else might chime in if I am completely wrong. In which case I'll learn a little something too.

Todd

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Last edited by toddct; 02-22-2019 at 09:23 PM.
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post #11844 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottieBoysName View Post
Since we’re all JTR LFE junkies in here, I thought I’d pose this question here first. I’m currently running an all JTR setup, sans overheads which are JBL SCS8s. Dual 2400ULFs on sub duty. Have a blast watching stuff so far.

Watching the first race scene in Ready Player One was a religious experience. I’ve never felt ULF/LFE like that before and combined with the image, Atmos, and general mayhem - it was awesome. I was stunned.

What other scenes have visual and sonic impact like that? What else has the total package of

1. ULF/LFE
2. Stunning Image
3. Immersive Sound
4. Aggressive Sequence

Anybody? I didn’t even feel Jurassic Park dig as deep as the swinging cannon balls in Ready Player One.

I ran the sequence for my wife and her statement was “I can’t watch an entire film with stuff that intense.”

That’s a good word for it. Intense. What else is out there?

I’ve heard the opening plane scene in Overlord is killer. I’ll check it out next.

As for sound intensity Ready Player One is hard to beat, especially for newer movies. I don't recall feeling my hair and clothes moving as much on any movie as much as RP1.


Blade Runner 2049 has far fewer moments of crazy bass, but when it hits it's nuts too. The Atmos in BR2049 is the best I have ever heard, and the picture quality is one of the best I've seen too. It is the only movie that causes one of my ceiling speakers to make the HVAC (that the speaker sits right next to) rattle, and it does it quite a few times which gives you an idea of how much more content is put in the ceiling in that movie. Annoying rattle though, I'm surprised that the over all bass has never caused that but a little in ceiling speaker does.

BR is the only time I have thought, wow those overheads are LOUD.

Check out the 4K of Fury. The cannon fire is insane and the bass combined with the surround field will make you feel like bullets are ripping right through you.

As for older movies, check out the 4K Matrix. The Atmos is top 5-10 ever, and if you turn up the bass a bit it's great too while the picture quality for an "older" movie is fantastic.

Terminator Genysis in Atmos is underrated, I don't hear it talked about much but lots of very intense sound and bass.

And then of course there are the classic 5 star bass movies...

Hmmm I seem to be focused much more on the sound here...
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post #11845 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddct View Post
I'm somewhat in the same situation you find yourself in and this is what I was advised by people much smarter than me.

So, run audy or Arc first and get some time alignment and speakers levels. Then, turn off ARC or audy and then measure with REW. This should be your room response with the speakers and subs with correct distances and time aligned. Check the FR and then start miniDSP and start applying filters until you get the FR you are looking for. Flat, custom house curve, big low bass, monster mid bass or whatever. Then, rerun ARC or audy because at that point you are showing the new miniDSP filters to audy or ARC. Keep audy or ARC on and take a measure from REW and see if that's what's what. If not, rinse and repeat.

I'm sure someone else might chime in if I am completely wrong. In which case I'll learn a little something too.

Todd
That was similar to my thoughts; that I can make some reasonably flat responses using the PEQ’s in REW and just let ARC add some more flatness, and then done! But instead... after running ARC, with PEQ’s applied, I got the attached ARC graph. ARC dropped over dB of output in some frequencies, resulting in very sterile sounding bass. Was very contrary to what the corrected ARC graph showed Almost seems to me that ARC and Minidsp are at odds with each other? Wondering if ARc wasn’t meant to be compatible with a system using a MiniDSP 2x4hd as I use
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Speakers: KEF R300 (R,L), KEF R600C (C), JBL 306p mkII (Surrounds), KEF Ci160QR (In-Ceiling) Subs: JTR Captivator S1 x2 Processor/Amps: Anthem AVM60, ATI AT4003, Rotel RB985 mkII Video: BenQ HT2050, 100” Screen Misc: ATV 4k, Sony PS4, Samsung K8500, MiniDSP 2x4HD, Crowson MA x2 Room: GIK treated 2500 cu sq. ft. sealed room on a suspended floor
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post #11846 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 10:10 PM
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That is a head scratcher and I've have found that audy also does some weird things even when I "show" it a reasonably flat response from miniDSP. I've gotta be honest in that I don't have any experience with ARC. I'm still experimenting with my system using Audy, REW and miniDSP so my advice is to play around. I've already learned a lot and continually read and talk to guys on this forum. You might reach out to some guys who have Anthem and miniDSP and see how they are integrating their systems with these 2 tools. miniDSP is extremely powerful and flexible to get the best out of your system. Sorry I wasn't more help.

Todd
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post #11847 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddct View Post
That is a head scratcher and I've have found that audy also does some weird things even when I "show" it a reasonably flat response from miniDSP. I've gotta be honest in that I don't have any experience with ARC. I'm still experimenting with my system using Audy, REW and miniDSP so my advice is to play around. I've already learned a lot and continually read and talk to guys on this forum. You might reach out to some guys who have Anthem and miniDSP and see how they are integrating their systems with these 2 tools. miniDSP is extremely powerful and flexible to get the best out of your system. Sorry I wasn't more help.

Todd
Thanks, I agree. Definitely a head scratcher, but miniDSP combined with REW are quite amazing tools

Speakers: KEF R300 (R,L), KEF R600C (C), JBL 306p mkII (Surrounds), KEF Ci160QR (In-Ceiling) Subs: JTR Captivator S1 x2 Processor/Amps: Anthem AVM60, ATI AT4003, Rotel RB985 mkII Video: BenQ HT2050, 100” Screen Misc: ATV 4k, Sony PS4, Samsung K8500, MiniDSP 2x4HD, Crowson MA x2 Room: GIK treated 2500 cu sq. ft. sealed room on a suspended floor

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post #11848 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 10:45 PM
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Do JTR subs go on sale anytime of the year (cap 2400ULF or 4000ULF)? If so does anyone know usually when does the sale happen, that is if it does happen at all...
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post #11849 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 11:06 PM
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Do JTR subs go on sale anytime of the year (cap 2400ULF or 4000ULF)? If so does anyone know usually when does the sale happen, that is if it does happen at all...
i've seen a sale on shipping costs back around black-friday but not a direct sale on unit price other than a % discount for buying multiple subs at once.


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post #11850 of 15393 Old 02-22-2019, 11:33 PM
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Do JTR subs go on sale anytime of the year (cap 2400ULF or 4000ULF)? If so does anyone know usually when does the sale happen, that is if it does happen at all...
JTR does have sales. However, they are not seasonal.

The most predictable one is introductory sale. However, neither the Cap 2400ULF or the 4000ULF is new. so...

If Jeff has more parts than he would like, he might have an overstock sale. This happened with the speakers in Nov 2018 and the Cap 118HTs in Nov 2017 and 2018.

Nov 2018 was the first time that JTR had a free shipping sale. Therefore, I am not sure if it will happen again this year. AFAIK, Most ID companies don't have promotions (if any) on the same items every year.

If you are getting a second sub, contact Jeff and see what he can do for you.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

Last edited by chucky7; 02-22-2019 at 11:39 PM.
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