Official JTR Speakers Subwoofer Thread - Page 420 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #12571 of 13071 Old 06-05-2019, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
It's nice to have options! In some respects, starting with a single good sub is a little easier than starting with two subwoofers, because you will have a lot to learn about how to position your subwoofer properly, and how to operate it properly. Subwoofers are a little more complicated than speakers, and subwoofer placement and settings matter.

I will leave it up to you as to whether you prefer a Cap 118 or a PB4000. The Cap 118 will have more overall output, especially in the mid-bass. The PB4000 has the advantage of already being available in the piano black finish, and you can try one for 45-days and return it for a full refund, with free shipping, if it doesn't satisfy you. For someone who is just trying to figure out what he wants, that can be an advantage.

I'm not sure what you mean by a sound dispersion problem. A single good subwoofer should do a pretty good job by itself in a 16' by 16' room. Two subwoofers should do an even better job, but they may also require a little more effort to integrate properly.

To me, the question of whether to start with one or two is literally an instant gratification, versus long-term vision/investment, question. Most experienced home theater owners will tell you that it is better to build your HT components strategically, selecting each component carefully, rather than trying to hit the ground running with something less than you will want long-term.

If you buy two HSU subwoofers now, and get curious about whether you compromised a little bit, you will have to advertise and sell them in order to upgrade. If you buy the single more expensive sub you want now, your upgrade path is much simpler--you just add a second one when you can. A few months or a year doesn't sound like such a long time to me, but I think that I have finally learned some patience about this sort of thing.

You will have to make the final decision, but my advice is nearly always to start with the best single sub you can afford and then add the second one when you can. If we were talking about having to wait years instead of months to add a second sub, my advice would probably be different.

Regards,
Mike

Aside from raw output, does the JTR have any advantages over the PB-4000? Less distortion, more sound quality, or some intangible sound factor (if that exists)? More long-term durability?


Both have 1200 watt amplifers. The main difference I see is in the port design, and the fact that SVS is 13.5" vs JTR 18".



SVS PB-4000:
  • Cabinet Dimensions (with grille): 23.4” (595mm) H X 20.5” (520mm) W X 30” (763mm) D
  • Weight (unboxed): 153.2 lbs. (69.5 kg)
https://www.svsound.com/products/pb-4000




JTR Cap118ht:
  • Frequency +/- 3db 19-190hz (in room response below 17hz)
  • Amplifier 1200 watts RMS (ICE Power 1200AS1 module)
  • Dimensions (HxWxD) 30″ x 20″ x 22.5″ (HxWxD)
  • Weight 129 lbs
http://jtrspeakers.com/captivator-118ht.html

Last edited by Landmonster; 06-05-2019 at 03:31 PM.
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post #12572 of 13071 Old 06-05-2019, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landmonster View Post
Aside from raw output, does the JTR have any advantages over the PB-4000? Less distortion, more sound quality, or some intangible sound factor (if that exists)? More long-term durability?


Both have 1200 watt amplifers. The main difference I see is in the port design, and the fact that SVS is 13.5" vs JTR 18".



SVS PB-4000:
  • Cabinet Dimensions (with grille): 23.4” (595mm) H X 20.5” (520mm) W X 30” (763mm) D
  • Weight (unboxed): 153.2 lbs. (69.5 kg)
https://www.svsound.com/products/pb-4000




JTR Cap118ht:
  • Frequency +/- 3db 19-190hz (in room response below 17hz)
  • Amplifier 1200 watts RMS (ICE Power 1200AS1 module)
  • Dimensions (HxWxD) 30″ x 20″ x 22.5″ (HxWxD)
  • Weight 129 lbs
http://jtrspeakers.com/captivator-118ht.html
Below 40 Hz, both subwoofers will perform rather similarly. Above that, the 118 will have 2-3x more output which, IME, will be EXTREMELY and DRASTICALLY noticeable on all content. This will also result in better sound quality with lower distortion, since, at the PB4000's maximum output running into its limiter, the 118 will be coasting along with negligible distortion and LOTS of headroom on tap for dynamics.

Although I have not personally had the PB4000 and 118HT in my room to compare, I have had similar designs in my room to compare. The first was extremely high excursion with great low bass but lower efficiency in the mid and upper bass much like the PB4000. The 2nd was a pro audio type design similar to the 118HT. The crushing mid bass offered by the pro audio style driver was a drastic overall improvement for me. The advantage of the 118HT is that it actually does not give up any low end performance compared to the SVS.

Also, rated amplifier power is very close to meaningless. The older version of the 118HT with a 700 watt amp has triple the output of the SVS PB13 Ultra up in the music range. This has to do with the efficiency of the driver.
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post #12573 of 13071 Old 06-05-2019, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by imureh View Post
Why are you not considering a Rythmik FV18 paper cone with all those options plus PSA? JTR would be the only one with custom finish options unless you go to Salk sound and get a custom rythmik.


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At this point I'm pretty much open to whatever. I need a convincing reason to choose one over the one... but I'd like something that I would be happy with the looks and performance of for a long time, without wanting to upgrade it.
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post #12574 of 13071 Old 06-05-2019, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landmonster View Post
Aside from raw output, does the JTR have any advantages over the PB-4000? Less distortion, more sound quality, or some intangible sound factor (if that exists)? More long-term durability?


Both have 1200 watt amplifers. The main difference I see is in the port design, and the fact that SVS is 13.5" vs JTR 18".



SVS PB-4000:
  • Cabinet Dimensions (with grille): 23.4” (595mm) H X 20.5” (520mm) W X 30” (763mm) D
  • Weight (unboxed): 153.2 lbs. (69.5 kg)
https://www.svsound.com/products/pb-4000




JTR Cap118ht:
  • Frequency +/- 3db 19-190hz (in room response below 17hz)
  • Amplifier 1200 watts RMS (ICE Power 1200AS1 module)
  • Dimensions (HxWxD) 30″ x 20″ x 22.5″ (HxWxD)
  • Weight 129 lbs
http://jtrspeakers.com/captivator-118ht.html
I believe it has been mentioned here(on AVS by, I believe, Imureh) that the 118ht sounds like the Rythmik FV18. So, in theory slightly cleaner and more articulate than the SVS. I haven't heard either, myself.
Basically, imo, you are looking at a more capable subwoofer, the JTR, over better and more consistent customer service with SVS. Also, JTR will be able to work with you on custom designs if necessary. For instance, if it takes you longer than you expect to buy a 2nd 118ht, and Jeff's redesigned it, I think he will still be able to build your version.

Rythmik is based in Austin, if that makes any difference to you.
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Last edited by drh3b; 06-05-2019 at 09:28 PM.
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post #12575 of 13071 Old 06-07-2019, 07:58 PM
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Happy Friday!

Ok, the wife is out of town so I'm cranking the sh** out of my system and damn if these JTR 2400s don't put a smile on my face. I'm watching Captain Marvel, not sure of it's bass stature comparatively but I've got MV at -5 and I'm roughly +13 on the subs and I gotta tell you........these hard hitters do not disappoint. The low end TR puts a sh** eating grin on my face......wait I already said that! Anyway, hope you fellas are getting a little joy out of your system like I am. Back to the show!

Todd

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post #12576 of 13071 Old 06-07-2019, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by toddct View Post
Happy Friday!



Ok, the wife is out of town so I'm cranking the sh** out of my system and damn if these JTR 2400s don't put a smile on my face. I'm watching Captain Marvel, not sure of it's bass stature comparatively but I've got MV at -5 and I'm roughly +13 on the subs and I gotta tell you........these hard hitters do not disappoint. The low end TR puts a sh** eating grin on my face......wait I already said that! Anyway, hope you fellas are getting a little joy out of your system like I am. Back to the show!



Todd


Play it with BEQ and add a house curve to your minidsp.


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post #12577 of 13071 Old 06-09-2019, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
You will have to make the final decision, but my advice is nearly always to start with the best single sub you can afford and then add the second one when you can. If we were talking about having to wait years instead of months to add a second sub, my advice would probably be different.

Regards,
Mike
THIS!! Mike once again thinks like me, or me like him, whatever :-).

From many days and hours of observing on this forum, and too time consuming for me to go into details but: yes logic might indicate buying 2 lesser subwoofers, but logic + heart + possibility of regrets = increase your highest budget by $500 and then GET THE SINGLE BEST you could afford.

Regards, Can
My System & Theta Casablanca Mini-Review (CB IVa setup help HERE) Uncontrolled passion for music, and sound.
Interesting Audio Diagrams :-) & High-End Speaker Reviews
JTR Subwoofer Thread I don't always listen to subwoofers, but when I do, it's JTR :-).

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post #12578 of 13071 Old 06-09-2019, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Landmonster View Post
It does Mike! I am considering a million different options here. I guess my total "initial" budget is around $2,000.

It seems like I have a few options:
A) Get 2 HSU (or similar) subs
B) Get 1 JTR 118HT sub ... and add a 2nd one several months to a year later.
C) Get 1 high end SVS sub, like a PB-4000 or something ... and add a 2nd one several months to a year later.

In either case, they need to last a long time, have suburb sound quality, and have a good WAF finish for my living room.

I am okay starting with 1 sub for now, as long as that will be decent until I can afford 2 of them. Would having just a single JTR subwoofer cause some kind of sound dispersion problem? in a 5.1 theater setup? Lots of what I read suggests that having 2 subs will sound much nicer than 1 more expensive sub. There will be a long time delay before I am able to add a 2nd JTR sub.... and even then, I would want the custom finish to match the 1st one that I buy.
Hi, see also Mike's response above. All IMHO: The highlighted text, and the fact that you are already on this thread, tell me that if at all possible you should increase above budget to 2500 and get the JTR 2400. Truly advice from the heart . I think chances are that you will explore this thread further and have regrets for buying lesser subwoofers.

Also, I think you meant room-modes, where two subwoofs have advantage over one. (But if you spend time with placement of a single one, you could lessen problem with room modes.) Dispersion AFAIK rerfers to higher frequency, especially treble where some speakers have narrow and some have wide dispersion, etc. Low frequency is omni-directional so problem is room mode, not narrow dispersion.

Hope this helps and good luck. Off to the LA Audio show now.
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Regards, Can
My System & Theta Casablanca Mini-Review (CB IVa setup help HERE) Uncontrolled passion for music, and sound.
Interesting Audio Diagrams :-) & High-End Speaker Reviews
JTR Subwoofer Thread I don't always listen to subwoofers, but when I do, it's JTR :-).

Last edited by cannga; 06-09-2019 at 09:59 AM.
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post #12579 of 13071 Old 06-10-2019, 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by cannga View Post
Hi, see also Mike's response above. All IMHO: The highlighted text, and the fact that you are already on this thread, tell me that if at all possible you should increase above budget to 2500 and get the JTR 2400. Truly advice from the heart . I think chances are that you will explore this thread further and have regrets for buying lesser subwoofers.

Also, I think you meant room-modes, where two subwoofs have advantage over one. (But if you spend time with placement of a single one, you could lessen problem with room modes.) Dispersion AFAIK rerfers to higher frequency, especially treble where some speakers have narrow and some have wide dispersion, etc. Low frequency is omni-directional so problem is room mode, not narrow dispersion.

Hope this helps and good luck. Off to the LA Audio show now.
I just got cops called to my house, cop said the subs are rattling the neighbors house He said you must have some great subwoofers lol I had my volume at 68db not even that loud kinda sucks though now I need to make it alittle quieter or else I know my neighbors will be pissed
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post #12580 of 13071 Old 06-10-2019, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by BobZealand View Post
I just got cops called to my house, cop said the subs are rattling the neighbors house He said you must have some great subwoofers lol I had my volume at 68db not even that loud kinda sucks though now I need to make it alittle quieter or else I know my neighbors will be pissed
Check your noise laws and the times with it. You can still turn up subs all you want, most times they only give ticket if its above certain spl output level with meter at their walls or certain feet from your house.
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post #12581 of 13071 Old 06-10-2019, 10:03 AM
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2 cop visits already... Both with the Cap 1400. None so far with the Cap 4000ULF...

Most of the time, cops are not familiar with the noise ordinances... Once the dispatch gets a call, a patrol car is sent to check it out. The police may not be equipped to measure dBA. Therefore, even if you are well with-in the noise limit, you will still get a visit.



The police might tell you that they can seize your equipment for future offences... blah blah blah...
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Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
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post #12582 of 13071 Old 06-10-2019, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ereed View Post
Check your noise laws and the times with it. You can still turn up subs all you want, most times they only give ticket if its above certain spl output level with meter at their walls or certain feet from your house.
Definitely this.. I had cops come to my home 4 times in the past. After I research my noise law in my district, 8am-10pm. And told the police this they looked shocked. Over 3 years since the last visit, they never came to my house again. Well, it also could be I’m a huge supporter for our local police. But can’t imagine what the neighbors go through when I crank things up. But I do feel bad sometimes for my neighbors.
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post #12583 of 13071 Old 06-10-2019, 03:44 PM
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probably not a bad idea to talk to your neighbors and see if you can work something out. Even if it’s within the limits of the law, playing music/TV so loud it rattles your neighbors houses to the point of distraction is probably not the totally right way to go.

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post #12584 of 13071 Old 06-10-2019, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
2 cop visits already...

65/50 dB from 7 am till 10 pm? That's absurd. A normal conversation is approx 60 dB. 5 dB more is not much at all. You're slacking chucky. With those laws and the 4k, you should be getting complaints from 3 streets away!

So lawn mowing (or any power tool for that matter) is illegal in your neighborhood? Lawnmowers are approx. 90 dB.
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post #12585 of 13071 Old 06-10-2019, 04:14 PM
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You're slacking chucky.
Agreed. I think he's getting a little soft in his old age!

My neighbors can feel vibrations when my system's in full force but I warned them a long time ago to let me know. They basically text me and say "your wife's out of town isn't she?" Yes, yes she is!

Todd
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post #12586 of 13071 Old 06-10-2019, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by zeus33 View Post
65/50 dB from 7 am till 10 pm? That's absurd. A normal conversation is approx 60 dB. 5 dB more is not much at all. You're slacking chucky. With those laws and the 4k, you should be getting complaints from 3 streets away!

So lawn mowing (or any power tool for that matter) is illegal in your neighborhood? Lawnmowers are approx. 90 dB.
Lawn mowing falls under the maintenance of real property, which is one of the special exclusions of the noise ordinance.

Check your city's noise ordinance. You might be surprised that it is similar to mine...

However, this is 65/50 dBA -- 65 dBA at the property line and 50 dBA inside the neighbor's home with all windows closed. We all know sound above 80Hz is much easier to contain indoors. It's the sound under 80Hz that is more problematic. @ 31Hz, dBC is 36dB higher than dBA. Therefore, 65 dBA at the property line becomes 101dBC... This means I can pretty much watch movies all night long at reference level as long as I have my windows closed.
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post #12587 of 13071 Old 06-10-2019, 07:05 PM
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Hey everyone,

Posted this last week but the thread went dead so I’ll try again:

I have a 2013 Passive Cap 2400 that I currently power with an EP4000. If I purchased a new Cap 2400, can I power both with the one plate amp on the new Cap? Thanks!
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post #12588 of 13071 Old 06-10-2019, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BobZealand View Post
I just got cops called to my house, cop said the subs are rattling the neighbors house He said you must have some great subwoofers lol I had my volume at 68db not even that loud kinda sucks though now I need to make it alittle quieter or else I know my neighbors will be pissed
Time to look into a BOSS setup. It's a game changer for bass even if you don't have neighbor/volume issues. However, in your case imagine getting all the bass feel you want with as little or as much volume as you want but all the while feeling/sounding completely realistic (unlike transducers).

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...l#post56519422

Here are the instructions:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...l#post57611912
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post #12589 of 13071 Old 06-10-2019, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ratm View Post
Hey everyone,

Posted this last week but the thread went dead so I’ll try again:

I have a 2013 Passive Cap 2400 that I currently power with an EP4000. If I purchased a new Cap 2400, can I power both with the one plate amp on the new Cap? Thanks!
You didn't get an answer because no one here uses a passive Captivator with an active one...

However, AFAIK, I don't think you can. JTR subs are not configured to be master/slave capable.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

Last edited by chucky7; 06-11-2019 at 12:54 PM.
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post #12590 of 13071 Old 06-10-2019, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by carp View Post
Time to look into a BOSS setup. It's a game changer for bass even if you don't have neighbor/volume issues. However, in your case imagine getting all the bass feel you want with as little or as much volume as you want but all the while feeling/sounding completely realistic (unlike transducers).

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...l#post56519422

Here are the instructions:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...l#post57611912
And the rabbit hole just got so much deeper.
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post #12591 of 13071 Old 06-11-2019, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
You didn't get an answer because no one here use a passive Captivator with an active one...

However, AFAIK, I don't think you can. JTR subs are not configured to be master/slave capable.

Thanks
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post #12592 of 13071 Old 06-11-2019, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
Lawn mowing falls under the maintenance of real property, which is one of the special exclusions of the noise ordinance.

Check your city's noise ordinance. You might be surprised that it is similar to mine...

However, this is 65/50 dBA - 65 dBA at the property line and 50 dBA inside the neighbor's home with all windows closed. We all know sound above 80Hz is much easier to contained indoors. It's the sound under 80Hz that is more problematic. @ 31Hz, dBC is 36dB higher than dBA. Therefore, 65 dBA at the property line becomes 101dBC... This means I can pretty much watch movies all night long at reference level as long as I have my windows closed.

Yeah, the A weighting definitely helps. Mine is 72 dBA.
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post #12593 of 13071 Old 06-11-2019, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ereed View Post
Check your noise laws and the times with it. You can still turn up subs all you want, most times they only give ticket if its above certain spl output level with meter at their walls or certain feet from your house.
Cop said I can listen till 10pm here I was watching a movie at 9:00 pm but I think my neighbors were just worried Id be listening past 10pm because I was running my subs around midnight once not paying attention to the time 🙃 that was stupid of me I didnt realize how loud it really was Im pretty sure the whole neighborhood could hear so I do kinda blame myself for that but I will now turn them off by 9:00 to be safe
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post #12594 of 13071 Old 06-11-2019, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by madhuski View Post
probably not a bad idea to talk to your neighbors and see if you can work something out. Even if it’s within the limits of the law, playing music/TV so loud it rattles your neighbors houses to the point of distraction is probably not the totally right way to go.
I would like to talk to them but Im not sure which neighbors complained It would be nice if they left a letter in my mailbox or at my door if they have to sleep during the daytime or something just so I'd know when not to disturb them
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post #12595 of 13071 Old 06-11-2019, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by carp View Post
Time to look into a BOSS setup. It's a game changer for bass even if you don't have neighbor/volume issues. However, in your case imagine getting all the bass feel you want with as little or as much volume as you want but all the while feeling/sounding completely realistic (unlike transducers).

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...l#post56519422

Here are the instructions:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...l#post57611912
Ill look into it thanks
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post #12596 of 13071 Old 06-14-2019, 10:55 AM
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Took delivery of the Marantz SR7013 yesterday. The JTR subwoofers have responded to this change of AVR with shocking performance. I don't know what it is, because I thought my Yamaha Aventage RX-A2030 was a great AVR. But this has truly changed the game over here. The subwoofers are now so explosive and tight sounding that I'm actually scared of them. I didn't change anything on the subwoofers. I dialed in the same minus 3 in the AVR's subwoofer trim. Speakers are crossed over at 100Hz and the LFE low pass is at 120Hz. Whatever is happening here is beyond me, but these subwoofers mated to this Marantz AVR is absolutely out of control.

There are some large caliber sniper shots in the motion picture, "The Accountant." Wow. I actually had to stop the movie and reconsider whether or not I could continue on like this. I live in a free-standing house, but there are people in this neighborhood and there's no way I'll get away with this. The shots were so explosive and powerful that I was frozen like a deer in headlights. It was only after the scene was over that I regained my composure and turned the movie off. Then I started peeking out of the blinds to see if someone was going to approach the house.


2-Channel:
Wharfedale Opus 2-3, Jolida JD1502, Arcam irDAC
3.2 Home Theater:
Marantz SR7013, Klipsch RP-160 piano black X 3, JTR 2400 ULF X 2
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post #12597 of 13071 Old 06-14-2019, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Sweet Jimmy View Post
Took delivery of the Marantz SR7013 yesterday. The JTR subwoofers have responded to this change of AVR with shocking performance. I don't know what it is, because I thought my Yamaha Aventage RX-A2030 was a great AVR. But this has truly changed the game over here. The subwoofers are now so explosive and tight sounding that I'm actually scared of them.

It's "mostly" agreed upon that Audyssey XT32 is vastly superior to YPAO and MCACC (Pioneer). XT32 does WAY more tuning in the sub frequencies which usually results in a much better sound.

Glad you're getting even more enjoyment out of your subs.
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post #12598 of 13071 Old 06-17-2019, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Sweet Jimmy View Post
Took delivery of the Marantz SR7013 yesterday. The JTR subwoofers have responded to this change of AVR with shocking performance.
There are some large caliber sniper shots
Why do you post this stuff? I just made up my mind I'm going with a Yamaha because I want something that'll work for decades and now you just sent me back to the decision box, grrrr......LOL!

Anyone with a JTR I can't recommend enough shooting a 50 cal sniper rifle or machine gun (the Lewis is my fav) in Battlefield 5, I happen to use a PS4. The hits are so phking hard that its as much fun as shooting for real. Your shoulder doesn't take as much a hit as real shooting but the air compression around you and in the couch is intense. Pure awesomeness.

Now, Marantz or Yamaha.....

Sony HW45ES - Seymour Center Stage XD 145" 16:9 - Sony PS3/4 - Sony STR DH810 - (LR) Paradigm Monitor 9v1 - (C) Polk CSI A6 - (SR) Yamaha satellites - JTR 4000ULF
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post #12599 of 13071 Old 06-17-2019, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MinnesotaGreg View Post
Why do you post this stuff? I just made up my mind I'm going with a Yamaha because I want something that'll work for decades and now you just sent me back to the decision box, grrrr......LOL!



Anyone with a JTR I can't recommend enough shooting a 50 cal sniper rifle or machine gun (the Lewis is my fav) in Battlefield 5, I happen to use a PS4. The hits are so phking hard that its as much fun as shooting for real. Your shoulder doesn't take as much a hit as real shooting but the air compression around you and in the couch is intense. Pure awesomeness.



Now, Marantz or Yamaha.....


Denon or marantz have better bass management than Yamaha especially if you have duals. No question.


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Subwoofers: Dual Rythmik FV18s Rev2 with Paper cone, BOSS Platform mini riser
Speakers: PSA MTM-210 L/C/R - Klipsch 250S Surrounds, PSA MT 110sr Rear Surrounds, 4 x SVS Prime Elevation for Atmos
Video: Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 6500 UB; Room: 2100 cuft sealed on suspended floor
Receiver & Players: Denon X4400H, Oppo UDP-203, Roku Ultra. Apple TV, Minidsp 2X4 HD
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post #12600 of 13071 Old 06-17-2019, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MinnesotaGreg View Post
Why do you post this stuff? I just made up my mind I'm going with a Yamaha because I want something that'll work for decades and now you just sent me back to the decision box, grrrr......LOL!

Anyone with a JTR I can't recommend enough shooting a 50 cal sniper rifle or machine gun (the Lewis is my fav) in Battlefield 5, I happen to use a PS4. The hits are so phking hard that its as much fun as shooting for real. Your shoulder doesn't take as much a hit as real shooting but the air compression around you and in the couch is intense. Pure awesomeness.

Now, Marantz or Yamaha.....
My struggle with the FR in my room is well documented in this thread... I compared my current AVR, Denon AVR-X4400's Audyssey with my last AVR, Pioneer SC-1222K's MCACC:


First, with both the automatic room correction off, the Denon's bass management made the FR flatter than the Pioneer's. The Denon's bass attenuation above 80Hz is also more gradual, giving rise to more mid-bass slam.


Not only did the MCACC not do much below 80Hz, it also introduced a dip centered at 50Hz... WTF...


The Audy really smoothed out my FR...


The Audyssey on vs. the MCACC on: The FR is much flatter with Audyssey on. Not only that, check out 75 ~ 200Hz. I am now as much as +20dB in certain frequencies! Hello, mid-bass slam!!!

Need I say more???

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3

Last edited by chucky7; 06-17-2019 at 09:27 PM.
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