Originally Posted by chucky7
I can't fully answer your first question. However, I can tell you my take on what Youthman did wrong.
Basically, whenever we switch out/upgrade speakers/subs, we should re-run the auto room correction software. If not, the AVR still applies the original speaker/sub level and EQ to the new gear.
Now, if we are doing a shoot out, running auto room correction software is not practical particularly when there are many contestants. Therefore, the easiest way is turning off the auto room correction and level match the contestants. For subwoofers, each sub's gain is adjusted so that they are level matched. This way we can just swap them out in seconds.
On Youthman's review video, he mentioned hearing strange noises from the Cap 2400XS. He couldn't tell if it was chuffing or not. Chuffing is very distinctive. Then one viewer asked him if he turned off Audyssey when listening to the Cap 2400XS. He said he did not. Therefore, his AVR was applying the sub level and EQ of his PB16-Ultras to the 2400XS.
Turning off the auto room correction is second nature for anyone who has done enough shoot outs or reviews. I did it when I was comparing the Cap 1400 with Monolith 15" and Cap 4000ULF with Cap 1400. Youthman said he forgot to do it on the Cap 2400XS. I believe it is entirely possible that he didn't know he has to turn off Audyssey during shoot outs. If that is the case, basically ALL the sub comparisons he has done so far are flawed.
Youthman also did not turn off Dynamic EQ. Dynamic EQ boosts the bass if you are listening at below reference levels. Therefore, the lower the MV, there more bass boost is applied. Personally, I never turn Dynamic EQ on.
Thanks for the detailed run down. I did know most of that. Or was able to make the mental leap. Where my real question was is about the connections part. I think
is addressing that specifically below. I will add my follow up questions at the end. Appreciate all the Great Work and info you provide here Brother. We are lucky to have you here!!!!
Originally Posted by STL D
It's in reference to the AVR gain structure along with hooking up both RCAs at once. Running both inputs along with the trim he had set could have been clipping the input if the amp was summing the signal.
Hi STL D,
This is exactly what I was so poorly asking about! I will ask some follow up's below. Appreciate the reply!
Originally Posted by toddct
Lol, that's a great story, thanks for sharing! I think we all like to flex our muscles and show off a bit, that's all part of the fun!
And believe you me..............I know exactly what that stare looks like. I get it on a weekly basis.
Parallel universe perhaps? I really don't think mere words can describe the power of the JTR line of Subs. One MUST demo them to realize what is on tap here. Seek out someone close that has a JTR sub. I don't think it matters what model they might have in regards to the Model you might be interested in. All of his Sub's are simply astonishing and can only be realized by actually hearing/feeling them in person.
I am happy to Demo the Subs I have for any AVS member who may be local or willing to drive. Just south of Tampa area. About 35-40 mins south.
Originally Posted by chucky7
Adam, you have the original 2400ULF. Jeff doesn't update JTR website so I think he just put the more popular configuration on it. Prospective buyer should contact Jeff regarding the availability of the low rider.
The original 2400ULF was tuned to 14Hz. In May 2017, Jeff decided to tune it even lower to 10Hz. This allows better integration with the 4000ULF. Holding the cabinet volume constant, port tune is a function of port area vs port length. In order to lower the port tune from 14Hz to 10Hz, Jeff had 2 choices. 1.) extending the port length. This is harder to do without making the cabinet bigger or having turns in the port. 2.) reducing the port area. Jeff chose the latter.
Hope this helps!
Hi again Chucky,
Yes Sir that does help and refreshes my stale memory. Again, thank you for your time Sir!
Follow up question about connections from my AVR to the Sub's. I use the standard high quality Sub cable for the initial run. But then I add a splitter and connect to both RCA input jacks on the Sub in Amp. Is this technically incorrect and if so, why? I have had it this way since installing them several years ago now. Have not noticed a audible problem. However, if this config is incorrect I most certainly wish to know that, and make proper corrections! Thanks Guys, truly appreciate all the wonderful help in here.
FYI: I am engaging Cascading Crossovers and make sure my AVR Sub trim is in the Negative numbers. Current calibration set the Subs to Sub1-(-9.0) and Sub2 (-9.5). I don't use any Global Sub channel Trim boost. But I do add some gain post calibration to the Sub Amp Gain control. I add back in 3 clicks after calibration as Level Matching causes me to dial back the Sub Amp gain to stay inside the required range. Sub Amp Gains are about 11' o'clock give or take a smidgen.
helped me set all the trims properly, but I don't think we ever discussed how I had the Subs wired?