Official JTR Speakers Subwoofer Thread - Page 5 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #121 of 13213 Old 12-31-2016, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by cannga View Post
Very informative/interesting post and that table is strikingly beautiful. You are into woodworking?

The color of the wood, yellowish on the table and "chocolaty" on the subwoofer, could be changed simply by using different stain colors? ie Customers could request Jeff to use different colors?

Yes I am into woodworking. A lot of the custom theaters we work on use custom cabinetry. Jeff's Captivator 118 is such a great value that I'm going to start suggesting that clients order one with custom veneer to match their woodwork. Actually anyone could do this, I have found Jeff to be very accommodating on matching custom finishes. In my own case, I sent him one of our QTR Teak kitchen doors and his custom cabinetry vendor matched both the grain, color and finish exactly. You can use a stain to change the color of any wood, but I like the beauty of natural wood in a clear varnish. That's why people spend so much money on exotic hardwood floors to get the color they want with a beautiful grain.

Below is are 32 samples of hardwood veneers available at my local supplier. The are posted in order from the least expensive to the most expensive. Each is priced for a 4' x 8' sheet of veneer only at 10ml. They are also available in 8' x 10' size for a little more. Jeff probably uses either one or two sheets in each sub he makes depending on the model and sheet size. Jeff's vendor may have access to all of these in stock at comparable prices. The final price will be higher because there is the added cost of laminating the veneer onto plywood and delivery to his cabinet maker. The first 26 range in price from $47 to $290. The last 8 are much more expensive, but I have included them to show everyone what's possible. For comparison, the QTR Teak and QTR Zebra Wood subwoofers Jeff has already shipped had veneers that cost $132 at my supplier.

https://www.glveneer.com


Other than QTR Teak my favorite mid priced wood is the QTR Anzem for about $20 more"





Of coarse my favorite wood is the figured premium KOA wood from Hawaii. But that would probably double the cost of the sub just for veneer!


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post #122 of 13213 Old 12-31-2016, 07:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Peterc613 View Post
You can use a stain to change the color of any wood, but I like the beauty of natural wood in a clear varnish. That's why people spend so much money on exotic hardwood floors to get the color they want with a beautiful grain.

Thank you for the explanation - very informative. So all the samples you posted above, each with different color, are showing the natural color of that wood? All that they have on is a clear vanish?

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post #123 of 13213 Old 12-31-2016, 09:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok gentlemen, last reminder: you know what's going to happen when that ball starts dropping on Times square : 118HT at $1100 nearly 25% off list, sale ends today. And remember technically JTR is central time LOL.

I actually almost feel sorry about "advertising" the sale because I highly suspect at this price JTR is not making much (what a tough way to make a living). Not sure if Jeff expected many people to jump in either - sorry :-). This is a serious subwoofer with the highest performance to cost ratio on the market today, because of JTR's (very good) decision to use a larger box, and match it with a powerful large 18" driver. Bargain basement price - no other way to look at it.

I have no connection, other than appreciating what I see and wanting to share the good things in life. Such as, once in my life I need to hear what a ported 18 incher does :-). Happy New Year to all Bassheads.
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JTR Subwoofer Thread I don't always listen to subwoofers, but when I do, it's JTR :-).

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post #124 of 13213 Old 12-31-2016, 11:47 AM
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I'm the same way cannga. I Love to pass along things i have a passionate view of. In this case these 118HT's really are a way for some to get huge performance inexpensively. I was on Jeff"s website last night looking at all the other products he produces. All i can say is how does he do it? He must have a team of guys helping out.

Anyway speaking of Jeff,,, Happy New Year Jeff,,, and all you Bass Heads!!
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post #125 of 13213 Old 12-31-2016, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by indebtbassfreak View Post
I'm the same way cannga. I Love to pass along things i have a passionate view of. In this case these 118HT's really are a way for some to get huge performance inexpensively. I was on Jeff"s website last night looking at all the other products he produces. All i can say is how does he do it? He must have a team of guys helping out.

Anyway speaking of Jeff,,, Happy New Year Jeff,,, and all you Bass Heads!!
Nope, pretty much all Jeff but he does have some helpers (Elves?) during the Holidays. Desertdome did a nice writeup of the JTR 10th Anniversary Party in the JTR Speaker Thread and he gave the straight scoop on how JTR operates. I'm very happy to support this excellent small business with my business. 7 years, 20 + speakers and subs and he's come through every time.
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post #126 of 13213 Old 12-31-2016, 05:10 PM
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That's impressive!! I'm enjoying learning about the ID company's (still lots to learn). And it's wide spread,,, with not only JTR, but PSA, Funk, Seaton, HSU, SVS, and so on. Whats most impressive to me is the passion these guys have in their products and product goals which do vary from one another. The customer service provided is at a level i've never heard of. When i read a post of one of Jeffs customers sharing a shopping day where Jeff himself went to their home with both Cap1400's and S1's, spent the day demoing them to help them decide what would be best,,, i mean who does that?? Of coarse the others also are well respected in that area as well. Nice to see!!
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post #127 of 13213 Old 12-31-2016, 05:15 PM
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I wish I could get in on either the 118HT preorder or a 1400, but I am all sealed up over here, so thing would get a little difficult if I tried to integrate the ported Caps into my system, but they are the right price with what seems like a lot of output too.

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post #128 of 13213 Old 01-01-2017, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by cannga View Post
I already found out - nearly impossible to decide. JTR's pricing structure is so very carefully planned out, like a witch's (not Jeff! :-)) clever maze with many great paths, but no single best path .

I picked Cap 1400 because in my current audio exploration into subwoofs I need to see what a best in class ported 18" sounds like, but now that I hear people's report on 118HT, yeah my confidence is shaken. :-)

There is comfort in knowing that what ever combination you work out dual 118HT vs single 1400, dual 1400 vs 218HT, etc., the one that costs more would have the better performance. It does seem to work out that way.
Do you no what the price is going to be for the Captivator 2400? Thanks
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post #129 of 13213 Old 01-01-2017, 11:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Do you no what the price is going to be for the Captivator 2400? Thanks
Sorry I do not know and I don't think it's been announced yet. Jeff P. follows this thread and I am sure he would make an announcement when the time comes. Or he might just jump in soon.

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post #130 of 13213 Old 01-01-2017, 12:57 PM
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Do you no what the price is going to be for the Captivator 2400? Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post
Still working on the 2400 and in the middle of building the first prototype which is 34" x 27" x 22.5" deep. Yes, it can be upright or on it's side. The target tuning is 14hz. I'll have more information within a month.
However, Jeff did mention that it is going to be around $2500 plus $200 shipping.
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post #131 of 13213 Old 01-01-2017, 08:39 PM
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Thank you for the explanation - very informative. So all the samples you posted above, each with different color, are showing the natural color of that wood? All that they have on is a clear vanish?

Yes - those are the natural wood colors. Jeff makes a superior performing product at the lowest possible cost. I'm sure he could produce the same custom hardwood finishes as his competition at a much more competitive price.



JYT Captivator 1400 $1,899
Single ported 18"





Funk Audio 18.0 $3,250 - $6,750
Single sealed 18"




























The Cap 118HT, Cap 1400 and the Cap 4000ULF are superior performers at their respective price points. People should step up and take advantage of that value and order some subs in really spectacular finishes, ***

*** Just remember to post pictures of your sub porn on AVS after you receive your custom JTR subwoofer!
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post #132 of 13213 Old 01-02-2017, 08:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes - those are the natural wood colors. Jeff makes a superior performing product at the lowest possible cost. I'm sure he could produce the same custom hardwood finishes as his competition at a much more competitive price.

The Cap 118HT, Cap 1400 and the Cap 4000ULF are superior performers at their respective price points. People should step up and take advantage of that value and order some subs in really spectacular finishes, ***

*** Just remember to post pictures of your sub porn on AVS after you receive your custom JTR subwoofer!


You betcha. I am actually quite a hard core shutterbug & pixel peeper. My love for photography is as intense as my audio addiction. I think the red of my Cap 1400 would make the "model" LOL look quite striking against the black background of my other gears. Jeff checked w/ me a few days ago on the Porsche paint code so it might come with Porsche Carmin Red yet, although Honda Red would be ok (sounds a lot more "catchy" with Porsche ).

Yes I did look at the Funk (& Seaton) subs. I love them all but neither Funk nor Seaton has a powerful ported 18 incher at $2000 and I didn't want to go through the next few years thinking "what if." The staggering low frequency specs of Cap 1400 is simply too much for me to overlook.

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post #133 of 13213 Old 01-02-2017, 02:06 PM
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You betcha. I am actually quite a hard core shutterbug & pixel peeper. My love for photography is as intense as my audio addiction. I think the red of my Cap 1400 would make the "model" LOL look quite striking against the black background of my other gears. Jeff checked w/ me a few days ago on the Porsche paint code so it might come with Porsche Carmin Red yet, although Honda Red would be ok (sounds a lot more "catchy" with Porsche .
I was looking at a used Nikon D800 body to go with my nikkor lenses until I postponed it to buy the four Cap 1400's. Now I'm postponing buying a refurbished Nikon 810 body in order to audition and accumulate funds for six potential Atmos speakers:

Tannoy CMS 603DC BM ($594 ea),
Martin Logan EM-R ($599 ea),
B&W CCM683 ($599 ea),
KEF Ci200RR-THX ($799 ea),
Monitor Audio ct380-IDC ($849 ea),
Orogin Acoustics D86 ($999 ea).

There are others like the Martin Logan Vanquish I really like but I'm limited to 10.5" maximum cutout between ceiling joists. With the exception of Tannoy, I work for a direct or indirect dealer of all the brands I'm considering, so my costs will be less than the retail prices listed above.

BTW - I vote for Ferrari Red




Quote:
Originally Posted by cannga View Post
Yes I did look at the Funk (& Seaton) subs. I love them all but neither Funk nor Seaton has a powerful ported 18 incher at $2000 and I didn't want to go through the next few years thinking "what if." The staggering low frequency specs of Cap 1400 is simply too much for me to overlook.
I also looked at Funk and Seaton, but like you I decided that JTR had comparable or greater performance at a a much better value. Once I got my subs I was pleasantly surprised to find out that the construction, fit and finish were like a high end cabinet maker. I've had a lot of custom cabinets built both for myself and clients and I can tell you that Jeff's cabinet shop puts out Subwoofer cabinets like fine furniture. Couple that heirloom quality outsides with Jeff's high performance insides and you have a world class product that would be a great value at much higher pricing (like Funk and Seaton).

Of course sometimes you can combine your love of photography, audio and exotic wood all in one example:



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post #134 of 13213 Old 01-03-2017, 12:20 PM - Thread Starter
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I was looking at a used Nikon D800 body to go with my nikkor lenses until I postponed it to buy the four Cap 1400's. Now I'm postponing buying a refurbished Nikon 810 body in order to audition and accumulate funds for six potential Atmos speakers:

Tannoy CMS 603DC BM ($594 ea),
Martin Logan EM-R ($599 ea),
B&W CCM683 ($599 ea),
KEF Ci200RR-THX ($799 ea),
Monitor Audio ct380-IDC ($849 ea),
Orogin Acoustics D86 ($999 ea).
I actually have the CCM683 which I am now using as side surround. Just now looked and surprised to find Best Buy is carrying it for a great price, $850 a pair. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/bowers-w...?skuId=2165036

I would vote for Nikon 810 since it has no low pass AA filter. http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/p...o-no-low-pass/
Example of how hard core I am : before this method became popular (now both Canon and Nikon are offering model without AA filter), I had sent my Canon to a guy in New York to have him removed it.

That turntable put my Linn Sondek to shame :-).

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post #135 of 13213 Old 01-03-2017, 03:22 PM
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Does JTR build the subs as needed or do they have some in stock? Thanks
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post #136 of 13213 Old 01-03-2017, 03:27 PM
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Does JTR build the subs as needed or do they have some in stock? Thanks
We try to keep speakers in stock. Currently, we're replenishing from the holidays but we should have most of our speakers back in stock by the end of next week. Feel free to email us direct.
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Also try the following:
Olympus Has Fallen - The Washington Monument scene - it's deep, loud, and the best of all, long~
The Incredible Hulk - The fight scenes.
Edge of Tomorrow - First 40 secs, this is good to find out what 30, 25, 20, 15, 10 Hz sounds/feels like in YOUR room.
Flight of the Phoenix - Sand storm scene.


Thanks for this & the info Chucky. I have all now and will modify my list accordingly .

Edge of Tomorrow's lowest reach is 10 hz? Is that the final "pulse/thump" in that sequence?

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post #138 of 13213 Old 01-04-2017, 09:54 AM
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Thanks for this & the info Chucky. I have all now and will modify my list accordingly .

Edge of Tomorrow's lowest reach is 10 hz? Is that the final "pulse/thump" in that sequence?
Yes. It starts at 30 Hz, then a little louder @ 25 Hz... finally @ 10 Hz.

Edge of Tomorrow PVA:


The first 40 seconds of Edge of Tomorrow...

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post #139 of 13213 Old 01-04-2017, 10:15 AM
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That turntable put my Linn Sondek to shame :-).
I live in LA. I'll take your Linn if you're no longer happy with it!


Linn Sondek LP12

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post #140 of 13213 Old 01-05-2017, 06:13 AM - Thread Starter
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OT Peter - Below is my version of audio porn . Shot with Canon 1D and 35mm 1.4L IIRC in RAW and developed with Capture One.

For years now I've traveled with 2 prime lenses Canon 35mm 1.4L and Contax Zeiss Distagon 21mm. Snobbish me - no zoom LOL. (Also have a Nikon setup - the amazing wide angle zoom 14-24mm 2.8 is a favorite - IMHO the best ultra wide angle zoom ever made.)


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post #141 of 13213 Old 01-06-2017, 04:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Jim Wilson is the reviewer with the most experience with JTR subwoofs, in fact probably the only person outside of Jeff P. himself who has heard all 3 of JTR's least costly Captivator triplets: 118HT, S1, and 1400, at home. I felt the articulate brief comparison below expresses well the sound character and uniqueness of each subwoofer. Here it is before making its way to page 1 of this thread.

BTW, Jim's other 2 reviews are below (I don't believe he has written full review of the Cap 1400 yet.).
Cap 118HT: http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...ht-review.html
Cap S1: http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...s1-review.html


Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post
Along with the S1, I also reviewed the Cap118HT. That model has undergone 2 revisions since I published my article, so you can assume its only gotten better. I also had a Cap1400 for a few weeks while reviewing the 118HT, so I'm familiar with that one as well. Other than Jeff, there are probably few people who have heard all three of those subwoofers. Given that...

The S1 is everything its appearance suggests - blunt force trauma - but it has a surprising amount of composure. A lot of that can be attributed to a JTR design ethos; high amp power + high motor strength = precision cone control. In large part, that's why I bought the review unit; it afforded me the opportunity to have depth, output and accuracy in sufficient quantities to satisfy my particular needs. It fit my requirements from a size perspective as well.

Because the driver in the 118HT appears to be from a PA cabinet it would be easy to dismiss, but in this case appearances are deceiving. Not only can it be counted on to provide a lot of output, it also has the goods to play deep. And of the 3 it's probably the most articulate, so there's a win-win right there. But then we have the Cap1400...

Take the S1 and mate it with the 118HT and you get close. The extraordinary amount of mid-bass this thing can produce has to be experienced to really understand its target audience; you feel the bass pounding against your chest, and depending upon the source material it can be rather pronounced. That's not to say the S1 and 118HT don't have a similar ability, it's just the 1400 goes about it in a more overt manner.

So what should you get? That's not my call, but if size and money are no object you should look long and hard at the 1400. If money is an object but size isn't (insert your own joke here) the 118 is still an excellent choice. The S1 worked better for me because I couldn't accommodate the larger cabinet that the 118/1400 use. I lose some mid-bass but I gain more capability in the lower octave. That was definitely the best choice in my case. At 4400 ft^3 you don't have a small room, so consider output when making a decision. If you ultimately go duals than you're covered no matter which of these you choose.

Regards, Can
My System & Theta Casablanca Mini-Review (CB IVa setup help HERE) Uncontrolled passion for music, and sound.
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JTR Subwoofer Thread I don't always listen to subwoofers, but when I do, it's JTR :-).

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post #142 of 13213 Old 01-06-2017, 06:57 PM
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Wondering if there any thoughts on if a 118 would play nicely paired with an HSU VTF3-HO with turbo charger.

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Quote:
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Wondering if there any thoughts on if a 118 would play nicely paired with an HSU VTF3-HO with turbo charger.

"I don't always listen to 18 inchers, but when I do, it's JTR." Come join the club. To make a long story short: You simply cannot go wrong with this choice *if* an 18 inch subwoof is the direction you are going after and the highest performance possible is what you care about. We don't buy subwoofs often and never a good idea to get into a "what if" buyer remorse situation - I'd go for the best possible, this.

For your question, I would answer with my glass-half-full view: there is no evidence that it would play less nicely than any other subwoofer, including HSU's own. I wouldn't hesitate to experiment with mixing them either, for better room distribution, and so as not to waste available spl power (although IMHO you should adjust gain so that the JTR would be doing more of the "volume" work as it's likely to reach distortion much later).

Even with important CEA-2010 data not available from all competing products, the performance crown for circa $1300 class of 18" subwoofer from US companies has for all practical purposes been conceded to the 118HT. No doubt due mostly to the powerful driver, and the large volume of its enclosure - a critical factor in subwoofer performance. (A smaller enclosure means sacrificing dynamic headroom capability, and with ultra low bass and the way that movies are mixed nowadays, one never knows how much is enough.)

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post #144 of 13213 Old 01-07-2017, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannga View Post
"I don't always listen to 18 inchers, but when I do, it's JTR." Come join the club. To make a long story short: You simply cannot go wrong with this choice *if* an 18 inch subwoof is the direction you are going after and the highest performance possible is what you care about. We don't buy subwoofs often and never a good idea to get into a "what if" buyer remorse situation - I'd go for the best possible, this.

For your question, I would answer with my glass-half-full view: there is no evidence that it would play less nicely than any other subwoofer, including HSU's own. I wouldn't hesitate to experiment with mixing them either, for better room distribution, and so as not to waste available spl power (although IMHO you should adjust gain so that the JTR would be doing more of the "volume" work as it's likely to reach distortion much later).

Even with important CEA-2010 data not available from all competing products, the performance crown for circa $1300 class of 18" subwoofer from US companies has for all practical purposes been conceded to the 118HT. No doubt due mostly to the powerful driver, and the large volume of its enclosure - a critical factor in subwoofer performance. (A smaller enclosure means sacrificing dynamic headroom capability, and with ultra low bass and the way that movies are mixed nowadays, one never knows how much is enough.)
I'm currently running the VTF3-HO (nearfield and behind the listening position) and a really old Velodyne CT-150 up front with the main channels. This should really be the reverse but the HSU is too tall with with the turbo and would block a portion of the screen.

Bottom line is one of these subs will be replaced by a 118...just not sure which one. I'm thinking of the following scenarios:

1. Get rid of the CT-150 and use the 118 up front, laying on its side.
2. 118 up front, get rid of the VTF3-HO and use CT-150 behind listening position as an MBM

Of course the 3rd option would be two 118s but I would like to experiment with the above two options first because I think two 118's might be overkill for my room. I can always upgrade to another 118 at a later date if I feel there is a need for it.
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post #145 of 13213 Old 01-07-2017, 09:31 AM
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We will be shipping out some Captivator S1's on Monday. Attached is the response and the lf adjustment.
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We will be shipping out some Captivator S1's on Monday. Attached is the response and the lf adjustment.
Great news Jeff, i'll call my insurance company to bump up house insurance for my new arrival.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewB View Post
I'm currently running the VTF3-HO (nearfield and behind the listening position) and a really old Velodyne CT-150 up front with the main channels. This should really be the reverse but the HSU is too tall with with the turbo and would block a portion of the screen.

Bottom line is one of these subs will be replaced by a 118...just not sure which one. I'm thinking of the following scenarios:

1. Get rid of the CT-150 and use the 118 up front, laying on its side.
2. 118 up front, get rid of the VTF3-HO and use CT-150 behind listening position as an MBM

Of course the 3rd option would be two 118s but I would like to experiment with the above two options first because I think two 118's might be overkill for my room. I can always upgrade to another 118 at a later date if I feel there is a need for it.

I wouldn't pretend to give "advice" but would like to share some HO/thoughts:

1. You never know how a subwoofer sounds and acts like until you have it in *your* room, primarily because room interaction dominates below Shroeder/transition frequency (around 300-400 hz in most room and drops with room size, becomes basically non-issue in large commercial theaters), and secondarily because of varying taste/listening habit/system/etc. You could have educated guesses, but bottom line is you need to get it IN there. So at the risk of Jeff getting mad at me (JK), I agree buying only one 118HT is a good place to start especially for small rooms.

2. Given that one could never be sure, then why do I rec. JTR? Previous users' & reviewers' (databass, hometheatershack) reports allow an educated guess: it's likely the most powerful and "clean" subwoofers you could get at each price range, both subjectively and objectively. I've also noticed that experienced bassheads always tend to move to bigger, and nearly never smaller driver, so there's the reason for joining the 18 incher club. I know enough to not guarantee anything when it comes to audio, but JTR is a good place to start.

3. IMHO, one thing to consider regarding mixing subwoofs is, unless they are of somewhat similar quality/capability (ideally you want them to be, in my case JL Audio and JTR), it's a good idea to turn down the gain and range of the lesser subwoofer and let the JTR do more. This allows the lesser subwoofer more headroom and hence less chance of distortion when that explosion hits, and allows the better sound of JTR to dominate. The lesser subwoofer should contribute positively (room distribution and SPL), not negatively (add distortion/"bad sound").

4. The MBM concept seems extremely fun. Using the Velodyne as such, does it contribute to the sound (also how loud is this sound and how good is the quality)? If it contributes to the sound too much, then I would keep number 3 above in mind. Does adding tactile response affects sound adversely IOW.

5. From observation of previous setups by pro's and experienced users, my vote is for 1 front wall, 1 back wall, the one in the back close to and behind MLP, preferably the JTR. A very smart and experienced pro (initials MS, friend of Jeff) once taught me an important step with front + back setup is to adjust delay of front vs back subwoofers to obtain smoothest in room response (and if you don't have measuring equipment, perhaps the setting that sounds loudest/best?). I have Theta Casablanca SSP, will Y split my JL and JTR & position subwoofers, and will let Dirac take care of adjustment from there.

Regards, Can
My System & Theta Casablanca Mini-Review (CB IVa setup help HERE) Uncontrolled passion for music, and sound.
Interesting Audio Diagrams :-) & High-End Speaker Reviews
JTR Subwoofer Thread I don't always listen to subwoofers, but when I do, it's JTR :-).

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post #148 of 13213 Old 01-07-2017, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannga View Post
I wouldn't pretend to give "advice" but would like to share some HO/thoughts:

1. You never know how a subwoofer sounds and acts like until you have it in *your* room, primarily because room interaction dominates below Shroeder/transition frequency (around 300-400 hz in most room and drops with room size, becomes basically non-issue in large commercial theaters), and secondarily because of varying taste/listening habit/system/etc. You could have educated guesses, but bottom line is you need to get it IN there. So at the risk of Jeff getting mad at me (JK), I agree buying only one 118HT is a good place to start especially for small rooms.

2. Given that one could never be sure, then why do I rec. JTR? Previous users' & reviewers' (databass, hometheatershack) reports allow an educated guess: it's likely the most powerful and "clean" subwoofers you could get at each price range, both subjectively and objectively. I've also noticed that experienced bassheads always tend to move to bigger, and nearly never smaller driver, so there's the reason for joining the 18 incher club. I know enough to not guarantee anything when it comes to audio, but JTR is a good place to start.

3. IMHO, one thing to consider regarding mixing subwoofs is, unless they are of somewhat close quality/capability (in my case JL Audio and JTR), it's a good idea to turn down the gain and range of the lesser subwoofer and let the JTR do more. This allows the lesser subwoofer more headroom and hence less chance of distortion when that explosion hits, and allows the better sound of JTR to dominate. The lesser subwoofer should contribute positively (room distribution and SPL), not negatively (add distortion/"bad sound").

4. The MBM concept seems extremely fun. Using the Velodyne as such, does it contribute to the sound (also how loud is this sound and how good is the quality)? If it contributes to the sound too much, then I would keep number 3 above in mind. Does adding tactile response affects sound IOW.

5. From observation of previous setups by pro's and experienced users, my vote is for 1 front wall, 1 back wall, the one in the back close to and behind MLP, preferably the JTR. A very smart and experienced pro (initials MS, friend of Jeff) once taught me an important step with front + back setup is to adjust delay of front vs back subwoofers to obtain smoothest in room response (and if you don't have measuring equipment, perhaps the setting that sounds loudest/best?). I have Theta Casablanca SSP, will Y split my JL and JTR, and will let Dirac does adjustment from there.
Thanks for the post, Can. You're right...think I will just wait for the 118 and see how it goes. Appreciate the suggestions.
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post #149 of 13213 Old 01-07-2017, 09:27 PM - Thread Starter
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In case you missed it: nice frequency response for the S1. Straight as a railroad track and meeting the super tight specs +/- 1 dB 16-150 hz.

I think Jeff P. is a "woofer whisperer," making these drivers perform magic tricks time and again .


Regards, Can
My System & Theta Casablanca Mini-Review (CB IVa setup help HERE) Uncontrolled passion for music, and sound.
Interesting Audio Diagrams :-) & High-End Speaker Reviews
JTR Subwoofer Thread I don't always listen to subwoofers, but when I do, it's JTR :-).

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post #150 of 13213 Old 01-09-2017, 01:54 PM
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Those specs are pretty tight,, doesnt get better than that.

The anticipation is killing me,,,,,,, it's so bad now i even dreamed about it arriving last night and setting it up. That potent 18" driver was rattling my fillings loose. Geez, whats wrong with me.
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