Official JTR Speakers Subwoofer Thread - Page 91 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2701 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by zeus33 View Post
Of course you will still be welcome. We even let SVS guys hang out here!

While the FV18 (I think that's what you are getting) is too new for anyone to know how they perform yet, Rythmik does make good products. I'm sure you will be pleased. The pair of them should still be a massive improvement over your current sub.

When do you expect delivery?
Enrico at Rythmik tells me that UPS will pick them up on Monday and they should arrive in Tulsa on Wednesday. Then UPS is to call me and schedule delivery. I opted for the signature required option because, I have to schedule my movers to come and move the boxed subs from my garage into my family room, unbox them, and put them where I tell them I want them.

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post #2702 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by gwsat View Post
I finally decided against it mostly because configuring two subs in my large open area would be much easier that doing a sub crawl with the 265 pound beast that is the 4000ULF would have been.
Or you do reverse the sub crawl by putting the sub at the MLP and moving your measurement mic around correct? I have yet to try but have read this theory on here on AVS.

Two is better than one by far for acoustical reasons!
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post #2703 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
Two is better than one by far for acoustical reasons!
Yep, that's what the big boys here say and when they talk, I listen.

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post #2704 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 12:21 PM
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I have heard of Rythmiks 'servo tech'

Are there actual claims to it being more accurate? If 're-radiated' internal waves were a real issue wouldn't Jeff and mark and the entire DIY community do something about it?
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post #2705 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
I have heard of Rythmiks 'servo tech'

Are there actual claims to it being more accurate? If 're-radiated' internal waves were a real issue wouldn't Jeff and mark and the entire DIY community do something about it?
Since Rythmik only has FV15HP tested by DB, and there really isn't any other $1500 15"/18" ported subs tested, it is hard to prove or disprove it.

I am anxious to see how Cap 118HT fares as it is also around $1500.
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post #2706 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
You know what, since you are coming from a PB13-Ultra, which does not have something that resembles LF Adjust (please correct me if I'm wrong), you should start with the LF Adjust @ Boost (all the way) and Gain @ half way then run Audyssey. Please let us know how it goes.
I turned up the gain to 2 pm and LF as well. Plenty of bass now - prob a little too much for the neighbors.
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post #2707 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
I have heard of Rythmiks 'servo tech'

Are there actual claims to it being more accurate? If 're-radiated' internal waves were a real issue wouldn't Jeff and mark and the entire DIY community do something about it?
All I know is that several of the bass-heads who post to the various AVS subwoofer threads swear by Rythmik subs. Also, the company has been around for a long time, so I was willing to take a bit of a chance with the FV18s. I have high hopes that they're going to make me very happy. I'll let everybody know what I think here, as well as in the Rythmik thread.

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post #2708 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 4kicknsnd View Post
I turned up the gain to 2 pm and LF as well. Plenty of bass now - prob a little too much for the neighbors.
The Cap 1400 has 5~6 db more output than PB13-Ultra. When they are both calibrated, you should find that, if your old sub was at its limit at say -12 MV playing a certain demo clip, the Cap 1400 won't be at its limit until -6 MV. Under the same volume, Cap 1400 should sound cleaner.
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post #2709 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
Since Rythmik only has FV15HP tested by DB, and there really isn't any other $1500 15"/18" ported subs tested, it is hard to prove or disprove it.

I am anxious to see how Cap 118HT fares as it is also around $1500.
Yeah, these are early days for the FV18. In fact, Enrico at Rythmik tells me that I am getting the first two FV18 production subs. I ordinarily try to avoid being the "first kid on my block" when I buy any new gear. I decided to make an exception for the FV18s, though, because they appear to be a bigger, more powerful version of the FV15HP, which has been around for a long time and has a good reputation. If it performs as well as advertised, I will have got a lot of bang for my buck. Otherwise, you guys can say, "I told you so!"

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post #2710 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Peterc613 View Post
When I was doing my DIY attempt to build my own JTR Captivators, I discovered that there are inherent advantages to using a larger cabinet with greater internal volume. Increased volume has a significant impact on the final results for output and extension.

PORT RESONANCE

This is the frequency where a particular port alignment will resonate very noticeably. The goal here is to keep the port resonance above 150 Hz. This is far enough above the sub's crossover frequency to keep it out of the audible pass band. If you increase the port area (Diameter in round port, or Length x Width in slot port x number of ports) port resonance drops down into the audible range of 150 Hz and below. If you decrease the port area, port resonance rises into the audible range of 150 Hz and above.

PORT VELOCITY

This is the air speed where a particular port alignment will cause compression artifacts (distortion) in the driver or audible noise (chuffing) in the port. The goal here is to keep the port velocity below 32 m/s (meters per second). If you increase the port area, then air velocity drops to 32 m/s and below. If you decrease the port area, then air velocity increases to 32 m/s and above into audible compression noise. Longer ports create more air resistance and will also increase air velocity and chuffing if they don'y have sufficient cross section area.

.....
Some of the inherent disadvantages of a smaller cabinet can be compensated for by using a larger more powerful motor asieblmy and increased amplifier wattage. Other sub manufacturers may have similar 18" drivers in smaller cabinets (PSA) or even really powerful long Xmax 16" drivers in smaller cabinets (SVS). But again, on balance there is really no way around the physics of basic Theil/Small box parameters. I'll take the lager cabinet size on a JTR sub every time.

.....


Nice discussion. Even nicer picture.
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JTR Subwoofer Thread I don't always listen to subwoofers, but when I do, it's JTR :-).
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post #2711 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 01:24 PM - Thread Starter
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^^^Really - J. Permanian is not to be blamed for the size of his subwoofers - Hoffman is! As in Hoffman's Iron Laws (Bold face is my addition. Hoffman is the H in KLH btw.) All else being equaled the size of the cabinet cannot be emphasized enough. Better output, less distortion, less port chuffing/compression.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Hoffman's Iron Laws http://sites.psu.edu/speakerdesign/2...aker-building/
1) Bass Extension (deep AND loud bass)
2) Efficiency (amp power)
3) Small Enclosure (cabinet size)

The law is that you can only have two of these three attributes in speaker building. Ideally we would want all three, we want speakers with good bass, can play really loud, and are small. Unfortunately we cannot have all these.
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Last edited by cannga; 04-20-2017 at 01:35 PM.
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post #2712 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by cannga View Post
^^^Really - J. Permanian is not to be blamed for the size of his subwoofers - Hoffman is! (Bold face is my addition.)

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Hoffman's Iron Laws http://sites.psu.edu/speakerdesign/2...aker-building/
1) Bass Extension (deep AND loud bass)
2) Efficiency (amp power)
3) Small Enclosure (cabinet size)

The law is that you can only have two of these three attributes in speaker building. Ideally we would want all three, we want speakers with good bass, can play really loud, and are small. Unfortunately we cannot have all these.
Choosing a subwoofer is always going to involve compromises. Those of us who have multipurpose viewing rooms have even more compromises to make than do those with dedicated home theaters. There is no free lunch for anyone. If you rob Peter, you must pay Paul.
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post #2713 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 01:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Choosing a subwoofer is always going to involve compromises. Those of us who have multipurpose viewing rooms have even more compromises to make than do those with dedicated home theaters. There is no free lunch for anyone. If you rob Peter, you must pay Paul.
Peter = the rocker?
Paul = interior designer?
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post #2714 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 02:06 PM
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All I know is that several of the bass-heads who post to the various AVS subwoofer threads swear by Rythmik subs. Also, the company has been around for a long time, so I was willing to take a bit of a chance with the FV18s. I have high hopes that they're going to make me very happy. I'll let everybody know what I think here, as well as in the Rythmik thread.
I would like to hear some someday! I know they are quality subs and really wish when I bought my first sub, an HSU Research VTF-15H I would have surged for the Rythmik FVP15 or whatever exact model # it is. But moving from a HTIB $999 was crazy money for a sub then!

But then I moved to dual Seaton Submersives (2400watt Speaker Power amps) and I can't fathom the quality of bass being better. The Submersive is actually considered a viable option for sub duty for some guys that spend 40k plus on 2-channel systems.

Is there any actual data (graphs) to prove Servo tech has results?
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post #2715 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 02:15 PM
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This thread is definitely convincing. I have been learning a lot especially the reviews from actual owners. I'm in the market for new subs and have spent HOURS reading thread after thread and was contemplating custom ported dual 18s similar to the minimarty builds, SVS or JTR. I currently have two PB13 Ultras (since 2015) in front and two BIC F12s in the rear which I've had for a long time now. Everything was set up in an "open-concept" living room/kitchen with the living room being 13x17. Everyone is saying I have enough bass than is needed (especially my neighbor) but I still don't think it's enough. I want more. I need more output. So my plan, since I'm relocating to Ohio in a few weeks, was to get rid of the F12s and get two 18s. The hard part is trying to figure out which ones to get that would pair well with the SVS PB13s. I contacted Jeff a few weeks ago for a quote on dual 118HTs and received a quick response but then I started reading all this stuff about dual 1400s and now the 2400 (which I keep reading about but have yet to see what it looks like). Can't afford the 4000ULF (I'd have to get two ) and this, as well as the 218HT have a height and depth I really don't want in the front stage.

I'm tired of people coming over, seeing my living room and looking at me like I need counseling. They just don't understand. So I'm buying a house which will have a large basement to put all this gear. I'd say I'm probably 80% movies/TV and the rest is music. I plan to move all equipment to a stacked rack which will open up space to keep the PB13s and add either the 118HTs or 1400s. Basically I'm looking forward to a fresh start in a couple months and I'm just doing research for now to see what's best if I kept the two PB13 Ultras (or get rid of them, which I really don't want to):

1) Go with the dual 118HT
2) Go with the dual 1400
3) Get rid of the PB13s and start over with...

Wasn't sure if should start a new thread but figured I'd post here since I'm already sold on JTR...I just don't know which set. Hope this makes sense. But maybe this is overkill. Either way, I'd appreciate your opinions.
Hi,

Marc gave you one good option when he suggested that you add dual Cap 1400's. Adam gave you another when he suggested that you might want to get rid of your PB13's in favor of dual Cap 2400's. I think that if you could run the PB13's in more of a rear nearfield arrangement, they would pair nicely with dual 118HT's up front. Looking at the frequency responses of all three subs, I believe that the 118HT's would work better with the PB13's than the Cap 1400's would.

There are some real advantages to the additional envelopment (and frequency response) that occurs with four subs. And, I am emphasizing the envelopment factor a little bit, in this case, because that is something that you have already experienced and would perhaps miss if you only had two subs up front. With that said, a pair of Cap 2400's would be a completely different ball game, in my opinion.

I think it would be easier to advise you if you gave us a little more information about your listening habits. What would be your typical listening level when you are really into it, and how much sub boost are you currently using with your dual PB13's? One of the things that may be overlooked in some of the discussions of max output is how much of the available output will actually ever be used. I have four ported subs in my 6000^3 room (with a concrete floor), and the loudest I have ever been able to listen, with any degree of comfort, is about -12 MV, with a +16db sub boost, post-calibration. At those levels, I believe I have about 10db of headroom left in my subs without getting into an area where distortion or port chuffing might come into play.

So, with dual PB13's and dual Cap 118HT's in a large room, I believe that it is unlikely that you would ever exceed the capacity of those subs. But, knowing more about your listening habits, and your specific bass goals, will help. For instance, can you articulate what you are looking for with a sub upgrade? More mid-bass (chest thump) more low bass (ULF and low tactile response), etc?

Regards,
Mike

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* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #2716 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 02:33 PM
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Hi,

Marc gave you one good option when he suggested that you add dual Cap 1400's. Adam gave you another when he suggested that you might want to get rid of your PB13's in favor of dual Cap 2400's.


Hey, what about the new guys suggestion? I don't blame you for skipping by me, still a newbie on here. Post #2682
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post #2717 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 02:49 PM
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Hey, what about the new guys suggestion? I don't blame you for skipping by me, still a newbie on here. Post #2682

Sorry about that! I didn't mean to skip over you. I had just forgotten that you recommended shifting to sealed subs.

I think that in a larger room, on concrete, ported subs tend to work much better than sealed. It is hard for even very powerful sealed subs to equal the output of any of the ported subs below about 25Hz, although four S1's would also be pretty cool, particularly at 12.5Hz.

I have been enjoying your posts, and I won't skip you again.

Regards,
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #2718 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 4kicknsnd View Post
I talked to Jeff about the output and he said to tune to my liking so cranking it up some more.
I've done many variations of audyssey settings and what i've done now whether its right or wrong has given me great results. My Integra AVR has a max -15 sub trim setting. I put the LF at its lowest setting and only needed about 11 oclock on the sub gain to get a -13 result from audyssey. I added +7db's to -6 sub trim and bumped LF to 10oclock. My S-1 pounds and gives the house a mild earthquake every time i turn it up (rarely past -10 MV). Your Cap 1400 below 30Hz has three times my S-1's output, so let her rip!!!
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Sorry about that! I didn't mean to skip over you. I had just forgotten that you recommended shifting to sealed subs.

I think that in a larger room, on concrete, ported subs tend to work much better than sealed. It is hard for even very powerful sealed subs to equal the output of any of the ported subs below about 25Hz, although four S1's would also be pretty cool, particularly at 12.5Hz.

I have been enjoying your posts, and I won't skip you again.

Regards,
Mike


No worries, having some fun with it


I agree, that is why I semi retracted that when his preference is more for movies. A relevant suggestion though if he doesn't go with the basement decision, but your right with the concrete floor taking them out of strong consideration.


Your information and posts are also very enjoyable and I am learning a lot in my short time here on the this thread and the wonder that is AVS. As is everyone else's on here as well, both non JTR and JTR owners, the information is sometimes a bit on the overload side It's also great to see the owners of the brands we discuss be active on here as well as the dedicated testers. This thread moves fast sometimes if your not on every day so skipping or missing a post is bound to happen from time to time. I am currently working on reading this thread in its entirety.

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post #2720 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
Is there any actual data (graphs) to prove Servo tech has results?
The data-bass.com guy tested the Rythmik FV15HP several years ago and liked it. That was reassuring to me but I made my decision to buy the Rythmik FV18s mostly based on reading happy feedback from owners of Rythmik subs. As we have discussed here many times, buying a sub from a well regarded manufacturer probably isn't too risky. Once I receive mine and get them installed and configured, I'll report further. They will be modest indeed compared to the setups that you and many others here have, but they will represent a huge upgrade for me.
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post #2721 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 03:15 PM
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Congratulations to @4kicknsnd for becoming a JTR member and receiving your sub! Can't wait to hear impressions as you move along!


Congratulations to @gwsat for taking your time and making the best decision for yourself and situation, (even though you almost came to the dark side) I hope you have continued happiness with your purchase and I can't wait to hear your impressions as well on your journey.

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post #2722 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 03:24 PM
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Congratulations to @gwsat for taking your time and making the best decision for yourself and situation, (even though you almost came to the dark side) I hope you have continued happiness with your purchase and I can't wait to hear your impressions as well on your journey.
I will always have regrets about not taking Jeff up on his offer to build a custom 4000ULF for me. Getting such a huge sub, though, would have introduced so many complications that a pair of smaller, more modest, subs wouldn't, I had to let it go.
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HT setup: Sony 75XBR X940D UHD HDR TV; Kaleidescape Strato Movie Server 6 TB and Terra Server 24 TB; Yamaha RX-A3060 AV receiver; Sonamp 2-1 2channel 100W power amp; Crestron Control System; 2 Rythmik FV18 subwoofers, 6 Hsu HB-1 Bookshelf speakers, 1 Hsu HC-1 Center speaker, 4 Focal ICW8 in-ceiling Atmos speakers; Oppo UDP-203 4K HDR BD player; Mac Mini HTPC. TiVO Bolt 1TB DVR; TiVo Premiere Elite 2 TB DVR; Roku Premiere+
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post #2723 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by indebtbassfreak View Post
I've done many variations of audyssey settings and what i've done now whether its right or wrong has given me great results. My Integra AVR has a max -15 sub trim setting. I put the LF at its lowest setting and only needed about 11 oclock on the sub gain to get a -13 result from audyssey. I added +7db's to -6 sub trim and bumped LF to 10oclock. My S-1 pounds and gives the house a mild earthquake every time i turn it up (rarely past -10 MV). Your Cap 1400 below 30Hz has three times my S-1's output, so let her rip!!!
Not to question your preference.

However, IIRC, your room is not exactly small or sealed. Unless you can measure that you are getting sufficient gain from the room to give you the desired output below 30 Hz, wouldn't setting the LF Adjust @ 10 o'clock a little weak and almost making the S1 a MBM?

BTW, most of the AVR test tones are 30 ~ 80 Hz, or even just @ 50 Hz. Therefore, they are not the best tool to determine the setting for your sub. Have you tried setting the LF Adjust @ Boost(all the way)? How does it sound? Since you have a sealed sub, I don't think you would mind the additional dB of output below 30 Hz if you had the LF ADjust @ Boost.
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Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #2724 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 04:20 PM
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When I was doing my DIY attempt to build my own JTR Captivators, I discovered that there are inherent advantages to using a larger cabinet with greater internal volume. Increased volume has a significant impact on the final results for output and extension.

snip...
AVS needs an award for the person who has the most elaborate posts. You get my vote. I can't even being to imagine how long it takes you to craft some of them.


 
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post #2725 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 04:21 PM
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This thread is definitely convincing. I have been learning a lot especially the reviews from actual owners.
I contacted Jeff a few weeks ago for a quote on dual 118HTs and received a quick response but then I started reading all this stuff about dual 1400s and now the 2400 (which I keep reading about but have yet to see what it looks like).

I'm tired of people coming over, seeing my living room and looking at me like I need counseling. They just don't understand.

1) Go with the dual 118HT
2) Go with the dual 1400
3) Get rid of the PB13s and start over with...
Well, here goes another one down the rabbit hole!!! Welcome to it!

Only AV enthusiasts understand the real pain and abuse you have already gone through... The HORROR! We are your counsellors now.. Spend money "correctly" get satisfaction

Do you have a budget $ amount you are shooting for?

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^^^You know this is AVS when someone drops a little over $3K on a pair of FV18s and still calls themselves a cheapskate!
You said it brotha!

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Originally Posted by gwsat View Post
I will always have regrets about not taking Jeff up on his offer to build a custom 4000ULF for me. Getting such a huge sub, though, would have introduced so many complications that a pair of smaller, more modest, subs wouldn't, I had to let it go.
We all have regrets, we just have to do the best with what is put in front of us at any given time.
I wish you the best with your new babies! Just be sure to return and report once you have them set up and have some quality experience with them!
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post #2726 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
Not to question your preference.

However, IIRC, your room is not exactly small or sealed. Unless you can measure that you are getting sufficient gain from the room to give you the desired output below 30 Hz, wouldn't setting the LF Adjust @ 10 o'clock a little weak and almost making the S1 a MBM?

BTW, most of the AVR test tones are 30 ~ 80 Hz, or even just @ 50 Hz. Therefore, they are not the best tool to determine the setting for your sub. Have you tried setting the LF Adjust @ Boost(all the way)? How does it sound? Since you have a sealed sub, I don't think you would mind the additional dB of output below 30 Hz if you had the LF ADjust @ Boost.
I concur. Why I suggested he experiment with the LF Adj on 6,7 & 8. LFA too low is like doing 40 mph on the Autobaun in a Lambo!

Friends don't let friends Leash their JTR Dragons! Gain at 2pm? That may be because he has the LFA too low. Try reversing that. Gain at 11 or 12 and LFA to 2 or 4.

It's all a fun learning journey. And every room will have a different room mode. I encourage experimentation. Don't be afraid. The only thing you stand to lose is your hearing. Something, if we live long enough we lose anyway!
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post #2727 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 04:29 PM
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Choosing a subwoofer is always going to involve compromises. Those of us who have multipurpose viewing rooms have even more compromises to make than do those with dedicated home theaters. There is no free lunch for anyone. If you rob Peter, you must pay Paul.

Of course there are some of us that compromise less than others...

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post #2728 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 04:46 PM
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I concur. Why I suggested he experiment with the LF Adj on 6,7 & 8. LFA too low is like doing 40 mph on the Autobaun in a Lambo!

Friends don't let friends Leash their JTR Dragons! Gain at 2pm? That may be because he has the LFA too low. Try reversing that. Gain at 11 or 12 and LFA to 2 or 4.

It's all a fun learning journey. And every room will have a different room mode. I encourage experimentation. Don't be afraid. The only thing you stand to lose is your hearing. Something, if we live long enough we lose anyway!
@indebtbassfreak has the Gain @ 11 o'clock and LF Adjust @ 10 o'clock. - Please try Gain @ 10 and LF Adjust @ Boost!!! This should give you more output below 30 Hz.

@4kicknsnd has the Gain @ 2 o clock and LF Adjust @ 2 o'clock. - Please try LF Adjust @ BOOST (all the way). Maybe this will allow you to turn the gain down a bit.

Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Noesis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H. TV: Samsung UN75NU8000FXZA.

FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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post #2729 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indebtbassfreak View Post
I've done many variations of audyssey settings and what i've done now whether its right or wrong has given me great results. My Integra AVR has a max -15 sub trim setting. I put the LF at its lowest setting and only needed about 11 oclock on the sub gain to get a -13 result from audyssey. I added +7db's to -6 sub trim and bumped LF to 10oclock. My S-1 pounds and gives the house a mild earthquake every time i turn it up (rarely past -10 MV). Your Cap 1400 below 30Hz has three times my S-1's output, so let her rip!!!
I used to use a Mini DSP unit to create a custom house curve. 6db hard knee curve from 80hz dow nto 30hz then flat behind/down. Not a night and day difference over simply bumping the trim up but a noticeable audible gain IMO.

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The data-bass.com guy tested the Rythmik FV15HP several years ago and liked it. That was reassuring to me but I made my decision to buy the Rythmik FV18s mostly based on reading happy feedback from owners of Rythmik subs. As we have discussed here many times, buying a sub from a well regarded manufacturer probably isn't too risky. Once I receive mine and get them installed and configured, I'll report further. They will be modest indeed compared to..
Still a nice subwoofer system. I used to say dual Submersives were modest when Papalock was cramming sixteen 18's in his room lol.
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post #2730 of 12988 Old 04-20-2017, 04:52 PM
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Of course there are some of us that compromise less than others...
Indeed the home theater in the picture that you posted looks like something that would have been dreamed up by a guy who is, in the immortal words of Tom Wolfe, "Gulfstream rich." Being merely "Learjet rich" wouldn't cut it.

HT setup: Sony 75XBR X940D UHD HDR TV; Kaleidescape Strato Movie Server 6 TB and Terra Server 24 TB; Yamaha RX-A3060 AV receiver; Sonamp 2-1 2channel 100W power amp; Crestron Control System; 2 Rythmik FV18 subwoofers, 6 Hsu HB-1 Bookshelf speakers, 1 Hsu HC-1 Center speaker, 4 Focal ICW8 in-ceiling Atmos speakers; Oppo UDP-203 4K HDR BD player; Mac Mini HTPC. TiVO Bolt 1TB DVR; TiVo Premiere Elite 2 TB DVR; Roku Premiere+
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