Did the JLs just sound better? Think that might be because you have two of them? The JLs are well out of my price range, but I have been considering dual SB16s. I'm currently running four LSiM703s and a 706c. I currently have no subs.

Could be having two, although I have 'em stacked vertically. Could be the EQ? Fact, it's irrelevant to try and compare without physically swapping them out. The F112V2 is about a heavy a thing as I'm willing to move. The PB16-Ultra is beyond what I can easily move without sliding, and bulky. So that did not happen.

JL's solution is elegant and also the calibration mic is high quality. Now, if I was spending JL money on subs, I'd be doing it DIY and building my own DSP correction. But man, JL takes the endgame and stuffs it into such a nice, small, shiny box. Respect.


And as for SVS, the 16-Ultras are extremely fine subs too. What more can you say? The JL's are high-end luxury subs and deliver but price/performance is not really a top-level consideration. SVS's latest is more like a performance sub with some luxury features. But, compare (for example) the piano gloss on the two... JL's fit and finish is immaculate.

Thanks. I appreciate your input. Buying subs feels like something I could contemplate for the rest of my life while never actually pulling the trigger.

I gather you feel that JLs fit and finish is superior to that of the SVS you demoed and reviewed?

Unarguably. The point I keep trying to reinforce is that with JL, and in particular with the F series subs, you're paying for a complete luxury package, and the expectation is there that it will blend in with other high-end furnishings, gear, etc. And it delivers on that front, although you'd have to be scrutinizing to see this difference. Fit and finish of the SVS is excellent, just not the same level IMO. And same goes for ergonomics, the JLs are flexible yet dead-simple to adjust and include auto calibration. With SVS you need an app and you need a mic and you need to know about parametric EQ, if you don't have an AVR that does sub EQ well.

Anyhow, these are all luxury subs, the recent PSA S7201 costs the same as a F112V2 and gets you 4000 watts plus four 18" drivers. So obviously, in that example if bass dB per dollar is the priority for a sealed sub, the choice is obvious. If size and aesthetics enter the picture and overkill describes the PSA's output relative to your needs, and you have the cash to spare, JL is there for ya. And if you have to split the difference SVS continues to fit the bill, yes?

The ID sub guys (Seaton, JTR, PSA) have the "if you've got space, we've got subs" thing down pat, but they don't do small.

Well said. That sums it up for me...anything more than the JLs is pure overkill for me.

If I'm not mistaken, Muscles said his JL F113s are a little better for music and the SVS SB16s are a little better for movies. He says they're pretty close overall. He's got a killer system.

I have 2 JL F113's and 2 SB16 Ultras. Believe it or not I actually paid more for the SB16's. I had a friend liquidating his audio setup to move and he never even hooked them up. I love both subs, I am running all 4 at once and they sound amazing together. I have a bunch of videos on youtube if you wan to see them in action.

Real life, I have listened to the same stuff back to back on just the JL's and just the SB's and the sound quality is very close, for movies the SB16 are louder and dig deeper, no question. The JL's are way harder to move around are a bit heavier. The fit and finish is better on the JL's but that is to be expected. Sometimes I listen to music with just the JL's on and it is pretty amazing, especially paired with the Martin Logans. If you have any questions feel free to ask me here or on my youtube channel.

Greg

What version is your JL F113V1 or F113V2?

They are V1's. From what I understand the difference between the 2 is barely noticeable. Maybe others who have heard both can chime in.

it is my understanding that there is a big differences from version one to version 2, at least Randy from JL told me there was. Off the top of my head Daro instead of Aro and 20% more output.

It's not really that big of a difference IMO, especially if you have Audyssey, Dirac, or some other EQ system built into your receiver/pre-amp. And it's 20% more amplifier power which does not translate into 20% more output. You need 100% increase in amp power just to get 3dB more output.

https://geoffthegreygeek.com/amplifier-power/

The specs on JL's website appear to be virtually identical between the V1 & V2. There was a power increase and a slight weight increase. The output specs appear to be identical. I'm sure there may be other differences.

http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mf...pdf?1397626169
http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mf...pdf?1443649713

Good to know thanks for the info.

V1 vs V2= 20% more output? So if it was hitting 100dB it now hits 120dB? Not happening. I would be surprised if it gets more than 1dB or 2dB at most of increased ouput and even that is unlikely as the enclosure volume looks the same from what I can see and power is a very little increase. It would need to double to even give 3dB increase but the driver is probably already close to Xmax limits already.

That's not how the math works when it comes to sound. Every additional 6 dB = 100% more output (i.e. 2 subs = +6dB). Or you could say 10 dB more is perceptually twice as loud (100% louder). Either way, 20% more output = just a few dB, not 20 more dB.

I figured there was something I was missing

So I decided today I am going to start with one F112v2 and buy a second if I feel I need it. probably going to buy it next month this time. I believe it will be huge improvement over what i currently have which is a Velodyne DD10.

Congrats. I think you'll be very happy with it.

For you guys who own a F112 could you Please offer some input here? Did you setup your F112 with a XLR sub cable to your processor or a RCA sub cable to your processor? I read the manual and it sounds like hum could be an issue if not using XLR connection is this true?. Do you have a dedicated line for your sub and if so is just your F112 on it? The manual says to have a dedicated line for each sub, thought s on that and would a 15a line be sufficient? Do you also use a line a line conditioner/ surge protector for your F112 or do you plug it into the wall receptacle with no protection?

Thanks for the help

Dave

Here's my setup. I don't know if it's optimal, but I haven't had any problems.

Dual F112
Both hooked up with RCA to my Emotiva XMC-1
Each sub is plugged straight to the wall
My whole system: Subs, Amp, TV, etc.. are running off a single 15amp circuit

I've never had any problems with the circuit tripping although I'm not listening anywhere close to reference volume.

Could you elaborate on what is "that something extra" the JL subs gave you?

That's the subjective part of it. I can't really explain it. Maybe it's the increased detail I experience. Maybe it's all in my head just because I am so happy with them. All I know is with the other subs I have owned I have always had the urge to keep trying new ones. Not anymore. Not at all.

Mine are connected via RCA not XLR. No him at all. Both are plugged into surge protection and run off the same 15 amp circuit. I don't run them at reference levels but have never had an issue.

Are your subs on a dedicated line? How many amps do you have? What is in your setup? I would love to not have to run a dedicated line. Here is what ai have:

Rotel RMB 1575 & RMB 1565
Marantz 8802a
Oppo 203
Xbox one
Verizon Fios box
Apple time capsule
Verizon quantum router
Hunter Douglas PoweView blind hub
Apple TV gen 4
Velodyne DD10 ( which is going to be sold)
LG E6
Furman elite 15 ph-l
furman ac215a

Speakers B&W CWM7.3 and CWM7.4 ( in-wall speakers), Atmos speakers B&W CCM682 ( 4 atmos speakers)

I have not tripped my breaker yet but wonder if I am getting the most out of my system. All of,this is on two outlets on the same circuit.

Thanks,

Dave

Glad you found it with your JL subs. Enjoy!

Today was the day I purchased one F112v2! Only problem I foresee with my purchase is that I only bought one. I think my wife would have killed me if I bought to at once. The deal I made with her was I would start with one and get a second one after having the first for a bit to make sure it is necessary for a second. I have to play it smart because I want to upgrade my 2 amps as well. Amps are going to be expensive because I am going to want to buy something that last a long time and has to be at least 200 WPC. I figure amps are going to cost somewhere between $10,000 to $15,000 to handle at least 7.14.

Get yourself some ATI amps:
http://www.classicaudioparts.com/ind...html?mode=list

I was thinking Mcintosh or ATI but have to take measurements of my cabinet space and go from there. Two 5 channel Mcintosh amps would be easily $12,000+ while ATI amps would definitely be on the lower end of the price spectrum, both are great amps. I would buy A stock just to be on the safe side, everytime I try and save a few bucks it always bites me in the you know what. I also have to get amps that would be future proof in terms of running better speaker than I currently have which are B&W in-wall and B&W in-ceiling speakers. I have B&W CWM7.3,CWM7.4 and CCM682 speakers. I could see my self going 800 series when I leave my condo and into a house.

Can you slave a 112 version 1 to a version 2. Does the calibration work for both?

I believe the master is doing all the legwork and sending out a pre-EQ'd signal to the second sub. I'd think it would work, there might be a need to level match... anyhow that's a question for JL tech support but it seems like that should work.