Official Monoprice THX Subwoofers - Page 54 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1591 of 1750 Old 03-25-2020, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by tparm View Post
I've been trying to read back through this thread for the simple fact of aggregating reliability and customer service results with Monoprice. It's kinda funny what derails a thread (rubbery isolation feet for instance......). Are there actual Monolith (specifically 15" ported) users, thread moderators, and/or reviewers who have their thumb on the pulse with Monoprice that can speak to these two areas?

I've read dramatically detailed horror stories of amp failures, broken grills, etc requiring the entire sub to be returned but those seem to be very few versus the number items sold. I know Rythmik, HSU, etc are known for their customer service, and reliability for that matter, but these Monolith units measure remarkably well and are an attractive option.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Monoprice is a consumer electronics company. The industry's SOP in product warranty is to offer a replacement for the product. Some here are used to how ID companies handle warranties' - replacing parts. Replacing parts actually saves ID companies a ton of money because subwoofers are bulky and heavy. What if the customer is not comfortable taking out the faulty driver or amp? To honor warranty, the customer still has to ship back the whole sub.

Monoprice's warranty is 5 year replacement warranty. So far, I don't know anyone who is owed money or replacement subs from Monoprice.

I reviewed the Monolith 15" sub. It is the a top sub under $1400 and one of the best sounding sub I have heard at any price, period. It measures extremely well to boot.
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post #1592 of 1750 Old 03-25-2020, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by klipsch123 View Post
ordered a monolith thx 15- sealer version. I didn’t know that a sealed version existed and I thought the sale was for the ported version. So I have been comparing spl vs freq graphs from the ported and sealed version as well as for the pb 4000. I saw a youtube video that favorably compared the monolith 15 ported against the pb4000 so at that point decided to order because of the sale.

I don’t see a whole lot of difference in the graphs seems like the sealed version is comparable but the testing conditions for the avs forum ( which i assume aren’t as biased as the graphs on monolith website)

are under different test conditions so i don’t really have reliable comparative numbers.

any thoughts? Should I return and wait for the ported version to go on sale. The sub comes in tomorrow but I won’t be able to compare with the ported version anyhow
I’m a big supporter of ID companies as it relates to home audio. Having said that I have had my deal Monolith 15’s since Feb 2018 and use them religiously almost every day. Zero issues. Super happy. Would do it again (I got both shipped to my door for $1900 and change).
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post #1593 of 1750 Old 03-25-2020, 10:22 PM
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so i received the mono price 15 sealed subwoofer today. It is supposed to be replacing my klipsch sub 12 ported subwoofer.

strange thing is it was acting very finicky. At first it didn’t even seem to work then i look at the back and saw the light flashing red and green. Disconnected the power cord, power cycled av receiver, then i got it to work. Then I switched it to power auto standby by. And no sound again. Lights acting strange, flashing different colors, etc. So i repeated the process of restarting everything and disconnecting power. Finally got it to work with auto power standby.

But the volume was extremely low. So i ran yamaha ypao calibration. Still seems to be very low volume. especially considering that ypao set my previous subwoofer to -10db and then I could turn it up from there and adjust the gain on that subwoofer and get audible appropriate levels of volume.

With this subwoofer the first ypao pass set the sub to -3db then i tried ypao again with all the THX settings switched off (knobs etc flipped to opposite position , max crossover, gain at 12 o clock.

This time ypao set the sub to +4db. with gain at 12 o clock

sound level still seem rather low. Tried various movie scenes and even some bass boosted youtube music.

The sound seems way way way too low for what it is. 15 inch driver 1000watt rms amp. The finicky lights and signal don’t add much to my confidence.

the klipsch is like i don’t know 10x louder.

Bad subwoofer, incorrectly set up, high expectations?

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post #1594 of 1750 Old 03-26-2020, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klipsch123 View Post
so i received the mono price 15 sealed subwoofer today. It is supposed to be replacing my klipsch sub 12 ported subwoofer.

strange thing is it was acting very finicky. At first it didn’t even seem to work then i look at the back and saw the light flashing red and green. Disconnected the power cord, power cycled av receiver, then i got it to work. Then I switched it to power auto standby by. And no sound again. Lights acting strange, flashing different colors, etc. So i repeated the process of restarting everything and disconnecting power. Finally got it to work with auto power standby.

But the volume was extremely low. So i ran yamaha ypao calibration. Still seems to be very low volume. especially considering that ypao set my previous subwoofer to -10db and then I could turn it up from there and adjust the gain on that subwoofer and get audible appropriate levels of volume.

With this subwoofer the first ypao pass set the sub to -3db then i tried ypao again with all the THX settings switched off (knobs etc flipped to opposite position , max crossover, gain at 12 o clock.

This time ypao set the sub to +4db. with gain at 12 o clock

sound level still seem rather low. Tried various movie scenes and even some bass boosted youtube music.

The sound seems way way way too low for what it is. 15 inch driver 1000watt rms amp. The finicky lights and signal don’t add much to my confidence.

the klipsch is like i don’t know 10x louder.

Bad subwoofer, incorrectly set up, high expectations?
Unfortunately sounds like a bad amp.
My ported version had same issue and had to return for replacement.
Seems to be issues
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post #1595 of 1750 Old 03-27-2020, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by bad1550 View Post
Unfortunately sounds like a bad amp.
My ported version had same issue and had to return for replacement.
Seems to be issues

Interesting. I have read through this forum and it seems like at least a couple of other people have mentioned the same problem as mine. Specifically about low volume. Another poster compared it to his pb2000 and was surprised how high the gain had to be set to achieve just some level of bass. This has been my experience. I have to set the gain to past 3 o clock and receiver sub trim all the way up to 0db (don’t want to go higher on receiver) just to get SOME bass. At 12 o clock on the gain I get zero bass even with overall receiver level set to 0db!!!

what gain setting do you all use on this subwoofer?

Interested in hearing how you have gain set in the replacement subwoofer as well. Is the replacement sub now good for volume at 12 o clock gain or less? Or do you really have to set to 3 o clock to get usable performance even on a working unit?

Some people have mentioned that the peeks and distortion of cheaper subs may play a role in the perception of output and quality,volume , etc.

But I was really expecting wayyyy more from this subwoofer.

so far this subwoofer has output levels comparable to my yamaha HTIB ported 8 inch subwoofer.

like the other poster 12 o clock on my previous subwoofer,the lesser powered klipsch sub 12 hg, was much much louder (avr set to -8 db sub trim) in the klipsch with avr overall volume to -20db (regular listening level for me).


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post #1596 of 1750 Old 03-27-2020, 10:24 AM
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My replacement is set to a gain between 12:00 and 1:00. After running Audessey
My level is - 10, I then bump up to - 4 and sounds great.
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post #1597 of 1750 Old 03-27-2020, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by bad1550 View Post
My replacement is set to a gain between 12:00 and 1:00. After running Audessey
My level is - 10, I then bump up to - 4 and sounds great.

interesting, how did the one u had replaced sound with these settings?

I’m not sure if the one I have is faulty. Someone had replied to my post earlier thinking it was. But after reading through some posts it seems some people have tried to justify having to turned the gain all the way up to get some bass out of these things. ( justify, without connotation just saying they argued the point ).


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post #1598 of 1750 Old 03-27-2020, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klipsch123 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bad1550 View Post
My replacement is set to a gain between 12:00 and 1:00. After running Audessey
My level is - 10, I then bump up to - 4 and sounds great.

interesting, how did the one u had replaced sound with these settings?

I’️m not sure if the one I have is faulty. Someone had replied to my post earlier thinking it was. But after reading through some posts it seems some people have tried to justify having to turned the gain all the way up to get some bass out of these things. ( justify, without connotation just saying they argued the point [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif[/IMG] ).


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Some people using the RCA inputs have split the signal with a y-splitter to both RCA jacks and that helped.

I'm using XLR and that tends to have a slightly hotter signal. I'm getting plenty o' bass.
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post #1599 of 1750 Old 03-27-2020, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klipsch123 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bad1550 View Post
My replacement is set to a gain between 12:00 and 1:00. After running Audessey
My level is - 10, I then bump up to - 4 and sounds great.

interesting, how did the one u had replaced sound with these settings?

I’️m not sure if the one I have is faulty. Someone had replied to my post earlier thinking it was. But after reading through some posts it seems some people have tried to justify having to turned the gain all the way up to get some bass out of these things. ( justify, without connotation just saying they argued the point [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif[/IMG] ).


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My sub was dead on arrival. I got no power at all. So far very pleased with the replacement.
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post #1600 of 1750 Old 03-27-2020, 07:41 PM
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Some people using the RCA inputs have split the signal with a y-splitter to both RCA jacks and that helped.

I'm using XLR and that tends to have a slightly hotter signal. I'm getting plenty o' bass.

Interesting, but I wonder if that being necessary indicates something is wrong with the unit. I doubt it would help me tho. I’m thinking maybe it’s the exact cable I’m using. It’s the one that cam with my yamaha HTIB years ago. But I have been using it with the klipsch and I don’t think it should matter anyway. I get like no sound at 12 o clock gain.

I really don’t want to have to return this thing and wait weeks or whatever for the process.


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post #1601 of 1750 Old 03-27-2020, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by klipsch123 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
Some people using the RCA inputs have split the signal with a y-splitter to both RCA jacks and that helped.

I'm using XLR and that tends to have a slightly hotter signal. I'm getting plenty o' bass.

Interesting, but I wonder if that being necessary indicates something is wrong with the unit. I doubt it would help me tho. I’️m thinking maybe it’️s the exact cable I’️m using. It’️s the one that cam with my yamaha HTIB years ago. But I have been using it with the klipsch and I don’️t think it should matter anyway. I get like no sound at 12 o clock gain.

I really don’️t want to have to return this thing and wait weeks or whatever for the process.


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I would get a higher quality, shielded sub cable and see what happens.

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post #1602 of 1750 Old 03-28-2020, 02:34 AM
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People need to stop being afraid of turning up the gain knob. I have it set at 3 o'clock, just past +6dB.
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post #1603 of 1750 Old 03-28-2020, 12:49 PM
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People need to stop being afraid of turning up the gain knob. I have it set at 3 o'clock, just past +6dB.

i think the issue is that I’m not sure whether my unit faulty or not. I can set the subwoofer trim in AVR at 0db
and the gain on the sub at 12 o clock and get zero output from it.

and at 3 o clock i get some Bass. I have to set the overall volume on the AVR to way above listening level which i usually set to about -15db
to hear anything from the bass.
Which leaves me with pretty much zero “headroom” and unacceptably low bass.

I changed the sub cable and no difference.


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post #1604 of 1750 Old 03-28-2020, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by klipsch123 View Post
i think the issue is that I’m not sure whether my unit faulty or not. I can set the subwoofer trim in AVR at 0db
and the gain on the sub at 12 o clock and get zero output from it.

and at 3 o clock i get some Bass. I have to set the overall volume on the AVR to way above listening level which i usually set to about -15db
to hear anything from the bass.
Which leaves me with pretty much zero “headroom” and unacceptably low bass.

I changed the sub cable and no difference.


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That's WAAAAY out of spec. I would request a replacement amp. You shouldn't have to return the whole damn thing. In fact, Monoprice higher ups were considering allowing parts swapping to save on back ache at both ends.

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post #1605 of 1750 Old 03-28-2020, 01:51 PM
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That's WAAAAY out of spec. I would request a replacement amp. You shouldn't have to return the whole damn thing. In fact, Monoprice higher ups were considering allowing parts swapping to save on back ache at both ends.

I was going back and reading through the posts, but it seems that they haven’t made the move towards this sort of repair.

I think I will just use this opportunity to return this one and get the ported version Monolith 15 which is the one I meant to order anyway.

or maybe the HSU VTF 15 Mk2 or PSA v1512.


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post #1606 of 1750 Old 03-28-2020, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by klipsch123 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
That's WAAAAY out of spec. I would request a replacement amp. You shouldn't have to return the whole damn thing. In fact, Monoprice higher ups were considering allowing parts swapping to save on back ache at both ends.

I was going back and reading through the posts, but it seems that they haven’️t made the move towards this sort of repair.

I think I will just use this opportunity to return this one and get the ported version Monolith 15 which is the one I meant to order anyway.

or maybe the HSU VTF 15 Mk2 or PSA v1512.


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Either one would be better at least in terms of reliability. If you can swing it, the ported 15 incher from PSA (the original SVS come again) is a beast.

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post #1607 of 1750 Old 03-28-2020, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by klipsch123 View Post
I was going back and reading through the posts, but it seems that they haven’t made the move towards this sort of repair.

I think I will just use this opportunity to return this one and get the ported version Monolith 15 which is the one I meant to order anyway.

or maybe the HSU VTF 15 Mk2 or PSA v1512.


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Another option is to try plugging into another outlet.
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Another option is to try plugging into another outlet.

Funny that you suggest this because I moved the subwoofer to the other side of the room which required me to plug it into the surge protector there.

I thought maybe sub placement was an issue but I seriously doubted this because the bass was non existent.
Anyway didn’t fix the issue.

Maybe i’ll try plugging it directly into the wall without a surge protector.

But on live chat with monoprice support, they suggested disconnecting it for 15 mins and the plugging into a surge protector that was preferably less than 2 years old. I did this and no improvement.

BTW Why would you suggest a different outlet ? ( I don’t understand how this would help, outlet seems to work with everything else)


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Funny that you suggest this because I moved the subwoofer to the other side of the room which required me to plug it into the surge protector there.

I thought maybe sub placement was an issue but I seriously doubted this because the bass was non existent.
Anyway didn’t fix the issue.

Maybe i’ll try plugging it directly into the wall without a surge protector.

But on live chat with monoprice support, they suggested disconnecting it for 15 mins and the plugging into a surge protector that was preferably less than 2 years old. I did this and no improvement.

BTW Why would you suggest a different outlet ? ( I don’t understand how this would help, outlet seems to work with everything else)



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When My dead on arrival sub did not work, support mentioned to try another outlet.
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When My dead on arrival sub did not work, support mentioned to try another outlet.

Ahh I see thanks. well it’s worth a shot.


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post #1611 of 1750 Old 03-28-2020, 05:12 PM
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I thought maybe sub placement was an issue but I seriously doubted this because the bass was non existent.
I don't own this unit. Does this sub, like mine, have an LED to indicate to you if it is in "sleep" mode vs. "auto-on activated"?

Maybe the issue is your sub's auto-on circuit needs an unusually strong signal to bring it out of sleep mode. The solution is to run the signal out of the AVR at a "hot" level, so it more easily breaks the threshold level to induce the sub to wake up, and turn down the sub's volume knob to a lower setting like 8 o'clock to compensate.

I've seen situations where annoyingly the user also had to play a blast of loud bass heavy content before each session in order to wake the sub.

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post #1612 of 1750 Old 03-28-2020, 05:19 PM
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Does this sub, like mine, have an LED to indicate to you if it is in "sleep" mode vs. "auto-on activated"?

Maybe the issue is your sub's auto-on circuit needs an unusually strong signal to bring it out of sleep mode. The solution is to run the signal out of the AVR at a "hot" level, so it more easily breaks the threshold level to induce the sub to wake up, and turn down the sub's volume knob to a lower setting like 8 o'clock to compensate.

I've seen situations where annoyingly the user also had to play a blast of loud bass heavy content before each session in order to wake the sub.

Leaving the subs in the ON position is another option.
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I did the Y splitter on my first mono15 and it made a HUGE difference, and when i got my second i did the same thing from the beginning. I do love these subs and the only other sub i'd be moving towards to in the later future would probably be a JTR sub . I had came from SVS pb2000 to dual PSAv1500's. These have been the best in my room, i have them set to -4dB on my denon avr and about 3 o'clock on the sub amp itself when i want to get it shaking the house (it shakes my projector so i gotta ease it back a little sometimes) or i leave it on THX volume mode most of the times when my wife is in there
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Does this sub, like mine, have an LED to indicate to you if it is in "sleep" mode vs. "auto-on activated"?

Maybe the issue is your sub's auto-on circuit needs an unusually strong signal to bring it out of sleep mode. The solution is to run the signal out of the AVR at a "hot" level, so it more easily breaks the threshold level to induce the sub to wake up, and turn down the sub's volume knob to a lower setting like 8 o'clock to compensate.

I've seen situations where annoyingly the user also had to play a blast of loud bass heavy content before each session in order to wake the sub.

ah yeah i checked this first. At first the led was blinking red and green and the manual made no mention of this state. I had to power cycle the thing like 10 times to get solid green led. so yeah it’s “on”
Also if i leave it at THX gain level i get zero sound. So i don’t know but another poster mentioned using it in this position, but literally get zero sound out of the thing at that level.


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post #1615 of 1750 Old 03-28-2020, 10:58 PM
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Flashing red and green means there is a problem with the amp.
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post #1616 of 1750 Old 03-30-2020, 03:26 AM
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Flashing red and green means there is a problem with the amp.

Yeah as soon As i plugged it in and saw this, I was a bit let down because I couldnt get it to even turn on. I really did not want to have to wait out a long a$$ return process. It’s solid green now BTW.

could be my klipsch sub 12 is just a really underrated subwoofer, because it blows this thing out of the water the way it is performing now. Nothing weird is going on with the unit anymore other than low sound. So I am hesistant in trying out the ported version. Like if I turn the gain up on the klipsch at the same trim level as I would for this one here, the klipsch really delivers some tactile response. Don’t want to give out on that kind of raw power for other metrics (sound quality, accuracy, etc) I would prefer to have all of these things.

Could be, maybe, I should just get another of the klipsch and call it a day. There much cheaper too.


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post #1617 of 1750 Old 03-31-2020, 12:56 PM
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well, i returned the sealed 15 today. I might give the ported 15 a shot. I have read some review on monoprice website that say the same thing I did about having to turn everything way up to get it to start pumping up bass. Now, I’m not sure if maybe the reviewers and I are experienced the same symptoms of a faulty unit or if this is just how these subwoofers are.

To any owners, has it been your experience that these subs sacrifice in output or punch for accuracy? I mean some have said that they set the gain to 3 o clock, if that is so, then this leaves me with little headroom to play with. I like to play music and movies extremely loud sometimes. I’m hoping my unit was just faulty.

I mean can anyone compare the ported 15 to my other choice HSU VTF 15h MK2 from personal experience?

Which will deliver more overall?


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post #1618 of 1750 Old 03-31-2020, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by klipsch123 View Post
well, i returned the sealed 15 today. I might give the ported 15 a shot. I have read some review on monoprice website that say the same thing I did about having to turn everything way up to get it to start pumping up bass. Now, I’m not sure if maybe the reviewers and I are experienced the same symptoms of a faulty unit or if this is just how these subwoofers are.

To any owners, has it been your experience that these subs sacrifice in output or punch for accuracy? I mean some have said that they set the gain to 3 o clock, if that is so, then this leaves me with little headroom to play with. I like to play music and movies extremely loud sometimes. I’m hoping my unit was just faulty.

I mean can anyone compare the ported 15 to my other choice HSU VTF 15h MK2 from personal experience?

Which will deliver more overall?


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I would look at the Power Sound Audio V1512.

Listen up, studios! Dolby Atmos Lite™ print-outs must stop!!
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post #1619 of 1750 Old 03-31-2020, 02:14 PM
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I would look at the Power Sound Audio V1512.

I haven’t been able to find any measurement data and reviews for these, which is data I like to see


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post #1620 of 1750 Old 03-31-2020, 02:18 PM
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I haven’t been able to find any measurement data and reviews for these, which is data I like to see


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All I know is that they are pretty darn powerful and its from the original SVS guru.

Listen up, studios! Dolby Atmos Lite™ print-outs must stop!!
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bestsubs , better than psa , monolith 12" thx ultra 500w sub , monolith 15" thx ultra 1000w sub , psa sucks

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