Originally Posted by iStorm
First off, again thank you so much for taking time out of your day to help me. You and Mike have been AMAZING!
I want to first preface this with did you see my other note in my last post that I quoted you on? I edited it in so you may not have seen it. I will copy it here just in case.
I also want to clarify, I thought if I changed anything on the subwoofer itself like turning on the Low Pass Filter, I had to recalibrate? I don't need to at all?
I also set the phase of the subs prior to running the ARC room correction. I have one subwoofer in the front left corner next to the left tower and one subwoofer diagonally across in the right corner right next to the 2 seat home theater chair. The front subwoofer is set to phase 0 and the one in back is set to phase 180. I used an SPL meter and turned through each phase degree to see which phase had the most SPL at the MLP and this is how I got these phase settings for each sub. Sound right?
That was my previous reply. Now let me reply to your recent post.
The FLAT setting is specifically on the ARC calibration software from Anthem AFTER the calibration has ended. You can choose and adjust settings manually to sync with your receiver. It defaults to FLAT (full range mode) but has options to do various other curves like the 4th order, 3rd order, etc. You choose the roll off here. Again, it defaults within ARC to FLAT. I'm assuming because I am running the subs full range with no low pass filter? I haven't tried the calibration with turning the low pass filter to ON on the subs themselves yet because with ARC I calibrate 10 mic positions which takes awhile lol.
So I was basically saying should I choose FLAT since I have the sub defaulted to No low pass filter OR should I choose a different curve like 4th order 24db octave roll off? Or should I save the 4th order for if I set the subs themselves low filter ON to let's say 80hz to match my front speakers.
Can you explain why for movies you would do standard tuning all ports open? I thought for movies I would want the lowest possible deepest hz so down to 13hz with 1 sealed? I have seen all ports open or 1 port sealed and do not know which one sounds better to my ears lol.
I want to mention with this processor it is trickier because I am used to my other denon receiver and xt32. I have no DEQ and with my amp the master volume only needs set to like -22db for loud movies. Since I have no DEQ I should probably just turn the sub up quite a bit for listening at these low levels right? I am assuming so because when calibrating the test tones are really loud with ARC and they probably make it calibrated for master volume 0 like xt32 audyssey.
I was advised by SVS not to use their PEQ when using ARC since it does a hood job but if I absolutely wanted to, I could do it before I ran ARC. I do not think it is needed and leave PEQ OFF on the PB16s.
Thanks for any input as always!!
Sorry had to go to bed, I'm on Irish time
Thanks for the compliment, although Mike has far more knowledge to this subject than I have I appreciate it
Okay for pre-calibration I think the most important setting is to have the LPF at default which is off. So if this was on when calibrating you will need to recalibrate.
The list on my previous post for pre-calibration is more recommended settings to get the best out of the subs and give ARC something more to work with.
The position of your subs is a tricky one giving that ARC doesn't assign distances to the subs. Form the setup you have it would make sense that the back sub would be 180 to bring in with polarity with the front sub. But you would really need to verify this in REW as this is a important part to get right.
I understand now what you mean with the term flat and is a setting for ARC not the SVS App. Giving that you have you have calibrated with the LPF= off on the SVS App, ARC is in full control of the sub, which is what we want, no need to re-calibrate
. So without having the ARC program in front of me or using it for that matter, it is hard to give you good recommendation on what setting to choose. But to give you a guideline, you want a curve that follows the response of the subs, this should have a natural house curve to them, you may roll them off a little earlier in which you would use the LPF. From my experience you want them at a good SPL from 20-100hz and rolling of from there, this can avoid too much content being outputted in the subs above 100hz(it will still receive this content but the SPL will be lower). This is a bit
like Cascading Crossover.
You could choose 80hz as well, but you can try all those setting that you mentioned in the 7th paragraph, they all seem right and you seem to be getting the idea here. In Audyssey you would have not been able to make LPF in the AMP, but you can in ARC so this may negate the reason to ever use the LPF setting in the SVS APP and just leave it on full and let ARC do this.
Ya when I use Dirac, the first feature you miss is DEQ, but this is where you have to use ARC to set up house Curves. It can take some time to get used to new EQ software. The goal at the end for me anyway was to set it up that you will not need to touch the sub gain on either the AVR or the App.
Check out some Harman Curves to get some idea of a curve to go for, it's important that all the speakers follow the same curve especially in the lower regions, you don't want flat speakers and a sub with a house curve, they both need to work together, In Dirac this took me a bit of time to do but I have a sound now that is very true to my speakers with the sub giving that icing on the cake and the backbone for bass heavy scenes. This is my preference I like to hear the sub when it is needed nothing more than this. But this is down to the user on how hot you want the subs to be.
I concur with SVS, let ARC do the PEQ's for you
Sorry I missed a part on the port tuning, again I don't own these subs, which is why I put a question mark on port tunings on the last post, if extended gives a better output down to 18hz by all means go with that
Don't be shy in redoing the calibration, I know it can be a PITA, but this is probably the most important part to get right and having the settings set up pre calibration as regards to the SVS APP might yield better results in the end. You can always cut some peaks that are caused by room gain or naturally by the subs. But you don't want to boost anything if possible, so the better output you get at the start the more you have to work with at the end
All the best