Monolith THX subwoofer and A2070 advice - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 27 Old 06-19-2018, 01:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Just purchased a monolith 10" thx subwoofer. Very low output of sound. Tried adjusting levels and gain, it helps but isn't quite cutting it. Ive run ypao, manual peq and tried a monster and mediBridge cable. Im guessing its the low lfe output voltage on the yamaha a2070 lfe outs. Should i use a y splitter cable to remedy or minidsp hd for the 2v line out? Open to any advice.

Well the a2070 goes into the monolith. The a2070 sub lfe out is .9v and the monolith wants 2v input. I was thinking using the y splitter for the 6db gain and drop in noise floor. I get good sub output with the gain high but then it sounds distorted and boomy which is not the monoliths natural performance especially with all thx modes and controllers engaged. If i put the a2070 gain high in the PEQ or the sub db levels it improves the volume but the quality of output is so low. Yes I have run ypao multipoint and honed in the phase dial. Anybody have any recommendations? Im open to advice.

I didnt do the full sub crawl because i havent purchased umik-1 for rew usb mic precision. I have changed sub direction, position and phase but the sub remained within 2ft of its original position to the left of my front speakers in the corner 1ft from either of the walls. I will add my room is a top floor so 7.5ft celings 14ft wide 24ft long. With couch 3ft from back wall and speakers 2m from listening MLP facing the couch. Subwooofer best spot without doing the crawl and usb calibration is nearfield directly facing MLP 2.5m away.


What purchase or modifications would be best right now. I was debating between isoacoustics isol8r subXL to raise the sub to ear level and isolate from wooden floor or minidsp hd to bump the signal output voltage? Or purchase a umik-1 and sub crawl calibrate through REW? I have a limited budget so I can only get one of those options momentarily.

Last edited by Euphorios; 06-19-2018 at 01:12 PM.
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post #2 of 27 Old 06-19-2018, 01:28 PM
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On the back of the Monolith subwoofer
Make sure you have the toggle switch for crossover marked to THX or "off". This will allow your AVR to provide crossover
Try the phase at 90 degrees
Set the level on the back of the sub to about 2pm on the dial.
I would set EQ to extended

Then make sure you have LFE turned on in your AVR and try starting your crossover points at about 80hz. Try it without YPAO first and manually set your distances and make sure speakers are set to small.

You may have done all the above but something doesn't seem right. You could try a Y splitter, but I am not familar with Yamaha receivers.
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post #3 of 27 Old 06-19-2018, 01:40 PM
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Splitting the signal and using both inputs on the mono10 should give you 6dB more gain strength which will help. But in my experiences with this problem...you would be best served getting something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-LINE-P...dp/B00I01ZNUS/

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post #4 of 27 Old 06-19-2018, 01:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ack_bk View Post
On the back of the Monolith subwoofer
Make sure you have the toggle switch for crossover marked to THX or "off". This will allow your AVR to provide crossover
Try the phase at 90 degrees
Set the level on the back of the sub to about 2pm on the dial.
I would set EQ to extended

Then make sure you have LFE turned on in your AVR and try starting your crossover points at about 80hz. Try it without YPAO first and manually set your distances and make sure speakers are set to small.

You may have done all the above but something doesn't seem right. You could try a Y splitter, but I am not familar with Yamaha receivers.

I have done all of that and those adjustments helped and yes gain at 2 or 3 oclock does make it louder but you start to hear the noise floor at volumes -20 and up. I wanted to be able to have the noise floor at 0db so i could play reference volume without distortion or hiss. The monster cable i use is lower quality but seems to have lower resitance i suppose because it has more volume with that cable whereas the mediabridge is great quality but its much quieter sound even at 3oclock gain. And my avr is adjusted to -5db sub and +3 subwoofer trim to keep it from being run hot and clipping.
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post #5 of 27 Old 06-19-2018, 01:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tom Vodhanel View Post
Splitting the signal and using both inputs on the mono10 should give you 6dB more gain strength which will help. But in my experiences with this problem...you would be best served getting something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-LINE-P...dp/B00I01ZNUS/

Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
Hi Tom!

Honored to have you post on my thread, youre always so knowledgable and helpful! You think that stereo line premp would be ideal? Does that split the mono lfe signal from my avr into stereo? I have heard adding steps and splitting signals impacts quality. I heard best results are using mindsp 2x4hd for preamplification of sub signal. Im 100% willing to go the route you recommended if you believe that is my best option. As long as there is no signal degradation or splitting from what my Yamaha outputs.
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post #6 of 27 Old 06-19-2018, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Euphorios View Post
Hi Tom!

You think that stereo line premp would be ideal? Does that split the mono lfe signal from my avr into stereo? I have heard adding steps and splitting signals impacts quality. I heard best results are using mindsp 2x4hd for preamplification of sub signal. Im 100% willing to go the route you recommended if you believe that is my best option. As long as there is no signal degradation or splitting from what my Yamaha outputs.
You would use one input and one output on the device I linked. I've run into numerous issues just like yours in the past with newer yamaha models. In one instance the customer did a system reset and he said that fixed it. But the overwhelming majority first tried every setting possible(including a reset) with no satisfaction. Then they added the Y cable and in a small percentage that helped enough. But the much larger percentage either gave up on the yamaha entirely or keep it and added a gain device in line. In each of these cases the problem was completely solved.

I talked about this previously here.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...ver-issue.html

I must have sent 15(?) of these boxes to customers over the past 1-2 years and from what I can recall they were all happy with the results and reported no audible signal degradation. They have all worked fine in my in office testing as well.

Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
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post #7 of 27 Old 06-19-2018, 03:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Vodhanel View Post
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Originally Posted by Euphorios View Post
Hi Tom!

You think that stereo line premp would be ideal? Does that split the mono lfe signal from my avr into stereo? I have heard adding steps and splitting signals impacts quality. I heard best results are using mindsp 2x4hd for preamplification of sub signal. Im 100% willing to go the route you recommended if you believe that is my best option. As long as there is no signal degradation or splitting from what my Yamaha outputs.
You would use one input and one output on the device I linked. I've run into numerous issues just like yours in the past with newer yamaha models. In one instance the customer did a system reset and he said that fixed it. But the overwhelming majority first tried every setting possible(including a reset) with no satisfaction. Then they added the Y cable and in a small percentage that helped enough. But the much larger percentage either gave up on the yamaha entirely or keep it and added a gain device in line. In each of these cases the problem was completely solved.

I talked about this previously here.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...ver-issue.html

I must have sent 15(?) of these boxes to customers over the past 1-2 years and from what I can recall they were all happy with the results and reported no audible signal degradation. They have all worked fine in my in office testing as well.

Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
Ok so I will be getting the line preamp next if this y splitter does not improve the noise floor levels/sq clarity. So regarding subwoofer height level and isolation would you say I would get a significant performance increase if I were to add an isoacoustics subXL isolator stand. It would raise the woofer to listening level and isolate from my hardwood floor. Or do you think that this is overkill?
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post #8 of 27 Old 06-19-2018, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Euphorios View Post
Ok so I will be getting the line preamp next if this y splitter does not improve the noise floor levels/sq clarity. So regarding subwoofer height level and isolation would you say I would get a significant performance increase if I were to add an isoacoustics subXL isolator stand. It would raise the woofer to listening level and isolate from my hardwood floor. Or do you think that this is overkill?
I've never found any type of "isloator" device to offer any real(measurable) benefit so I'm not the guy to ask..


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post #9 of 27 Old 06-19-2018, 06:03 PM
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Another Yamaha / Monolith owner here. I have the A860 and I had to crank the gain near the max on the sub; I even have the sub level on the AVR @ +1 or +2.

I can see why people would ditch their Yamaha's for a different brand due to these low line levels, but I got too good of a deal on mine, and I like it otherwise.
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post #10 of 27 Old 06-19-2018, 06:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Another Yamaha / Monolith owner here. I have the A860 and I had to crank the gain near the max on the sub; I even have the sub level on the AVR @ +1 or +2.

I can see why people would ditch their Yamaha's for a different brand due to these low line levels, but I got too good of a deal on mine, and I like it otherwise.
Everybody I have spoken to said use mediabridge subwoofer y cable to both lfe ports on the monolith. Raises gain 6db and drops noise floor so better SQ. Mine comes in the 21st, if that isnt suitable ill purchase that line driver Tom recommended.
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post #11 of 27 Old 06-19-2018, 08:49 PM
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@Euphorios

Try these settings..I have the Monolith 10” & 12” & a Yamaha AVR. The newer Yamaha’s were supposed to have corrected the output voltage but, nevertheless try these settings.

Sub settings
Turn the crossover on the back of the sub to THX or off
Gain to 3 o’clock
Extended mode
Phase 0

AVR settings
(Option) [Tone control] {bass} +6
(Option) [Tome control] {Sub trim} +6
<LEAVE EXTRA BASS TURNED OFF> It kills ULF’s!!

— Run YPAO, see where it sets the AVR trim, you’re aiming for -9 to -5
If it sets it higher than that than back down the AVR trim in between-9 & -5 & adjust the gain up to compensate.

Here is a picture of what all settings achieve as to not concern you to crank things up. Yamaha’s are weird when it comes to bass management.

Report back & let me know how these work before spending extra money on other “fixes”



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| Sub | Trilithon | Stonehenge Variant Subwoofer - 18” - 9ft³ - 19Hz | Marty | Microcube 390HO - 22Hz | Monolith THX Ultra 12 | Monolith THX Select 10 |
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post #12 of 27 Old 06-26-2018, 08:38 PM - Thread Starter
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@Euphorios

Try these settings..I have the Monolith 10” & 12” & a Yamaha AVR. The newer Yamaha’s were supposed to have corrected the output voltage but, nevertheless try these settings.

Sub settings
Turn the crossover on the back of the sub to THX or off
Gain to 3 o’clock
Extended mode
Phase 0

AVR settings
(Option) [Tone control] {bass} +6
(Option) [Tome control] {Sub trim} +6
<LEAVE EXTRA BASS TURNED OFF> It kills ULF’s!!

— Run YPAO, see where it sets the AVR trim, you’re aiming for -9 to -5
If it sets it higher than that than back down the AVR trim in between-9 & -5 & adjust the gain up to compensate.

Here is a picture of what all settings achieve as to not concern you to crank things up. Yamaha’s are weird when it comes to bass management.

Report back & let me know how these work before spending extra money on other “fixes”


So i got my mediabridge y split lfe cable. Re-ran multipoint ypao.
Copied flat to manual eq.
Ypao put me at -9.5db and -5.5db 31hz
The throughput is much better with the y cable and no muffled sounds. I have my crossover to thx, eq to thx, and always one and thx gain setting.

I am getting the response ive expected now. My next step will be REW and umik and subwoofer crawl.

As for my system its 2.1 right now and it does sound amazing with an already powerful wide soundstage.

Next step go 3.1 and get a center channel or save up and go 5.1 and buy an external amp from monolith line or emotiva?

I think my a2070 should drive my LCR fine and also crossing over at 100hz gives headroom.

What path do you guys think i should go with my home theater step by step expansion?

Thank you all for all your input. Avsforums has educated me and guided me correctly countless times. You all are gems and such kind helpful people. Im honored to be a part of this AV community.
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post #13 of 27 Old 06-26-2018, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Euphorios View Post
So i got my mediabridge y split lfe cable. Re-ran multipoint ypao.
Copied flat to manual eq.
Ypao put me at -9.5db and -5.5db 31hz
The throughput is much better with the y cable and no muffled sounds. I have my crossover to thx, eq to thx, and always one and thx gain setting.

I am getting the response ive expected now. My next step will be REW and umik and subwoofer crawl.

As for my system its 2.1 right now and it does sound amazing with an already powerful wide soundstage.

Next step go 3.1 and get a center channel or save up and go 5.1 and buy an external amp from monolith line or emotiva?

I think my a2070 should drive my LCR fine and also crossing over at 100hz gives headroom.

What path do you guys think i should go with my home theater step by step expansion?

Thank you all for all your input. Avsforums has educated me and guided me correctly countless times. You all are gems and such kind helpful people. Im honored to be a part of this AV community.
Glad to hear you got your subwoofer dialed in correctly. It makes a huge difference.

REW & a umik will also help improve your FR by helping you find the correct placement & EQ settings.

As far as an amp would go I’d look at the new Monolith amplifiers, here’s a comparison done by THX w/ the Monolith & Emotiva

https://www.thxstandard.com/#!/comparison/22,31/42//

Personally I’d get the nicest center you can afford next.

Check these out

Emotiva C2

https://emotiva.com/products/airmotiv-c2

Ascend Sierra 2 center (you have to click on the center option in the description)

http://www.ascendacoustics.com/pages...SRM2/srm2.html

Ascend Sierra Horizon

http://www.ascendacoustics.com/pages...n/horizon.html

GoldenEar SuperCenter XXL

https://www.goldenear.com/products/supercenters

Goodluck w/ your search

| Eqmt | Vizio 4K M50-E1 | Yamaha RX-V681 | iNUKE 3kdsp x2 | Emotiva BasX A-100 | miniDSP UMIK-1 | Monolith M1060 | Monolith USB DAC |
| Sub | Trilithon | Stonehenge Variant Subwoofer - 18” - 9ft³ - 19Hz | Marty | Microcube 390HO - 22Hz | Monolith THX Ultra 12 | Monolith THX Select 10 |
| Spkrs | HSU CCB8 x3 | SVS Prime Elevation x2 | Polk S15 |
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post #14 of 27 Old 06-27-2018, 08:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBateman View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Euphorios View Post
So i got my mediabridge y split lfe cable. Re-ran multipoint ypao.
Copied flat to manual eq.
Ypao put me at -9.5db and -5.5db 31hz
The throughput is much better with the y cable and no muffled sounds. I have my crossover to thx, eq to thx, and always one and thx gain setting.

I am getting the response ive expected now. My next step will be REW and umik and subwoofer crawl.

As for my system its 2.1 right now and it does sound amazing with an already powerful wide soundstage.

Next step go 3.1 and get a center channel or save up and go 5.1 and buy an external amp from monolith line or emotiva?

I think my a2070 should drive my LCR fine and also crossing over at 100hz gives headroom.

What path do you guys think i should go with my home theater step by step expansion?

Thank you all for all your input. Avsforums has educated me and guided me correctly countless times. You all are gems and such kind helpful people. Im honored to be a part of this AV community.
Glad to hear you got your subwoofer dialed in correctly. It makes a huge difference.

REW & a umik will also help improve your FR by helping you find the correct placement & EQ settings.

As far as an amp would go I’d look at the new Monolith amplifiers, here’s a comparison done by THX w/ the Monolith & Emotiva

https://www.thxstandard.com/#!/comparison/22,31/42//

Personally I’d get the nicest center you can afford next.

Check these out

Emotiva C2

https://emotiva.com/products/airmotiv-c2

Ascend Sierra 2 center (you have to click on the center option in the description)

http://www.ascendacoustics.com/pages...SRM2/srm2.html

Ascend Sierra Horizon

http://www.ascendacoustics.com/pages...n/horizon.html

GoldenEar SuperCenter XXL

https://www.goldenear.com/products/supercenters

Goodluck w/ your search
I have Chane A1.4s for L and R. Was planning to go 3 A2.4s for front 3 then move A1.4s to surround duty then purchase some good atmos speakers. Possibly may go to goldenear or sierras, the price point per performance for goldenear is high for my income. C2 is 4ohm right? Yamaha only run 6 or 8. Do Cierras timbre match Chanes?

Im not 100% set on Chanes but I am 75% set on that choice. Their A1.4 soundstage amazes me for the price and size.
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post #15 of 27 Old 06-27-2018, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Euphorios View Post
I have Chane A1.4s for L and R. Was planning to go 3 A2.4s for front 3 then move A1.4s to surround duty then purchase some good atmos speakers. Possibly may go to goldenear or sierras, the price point per performance for goldenear is high for my income. C2 is 4ohm right? Yamaha only run 6 or 8. Do Cierras timbre match Chanes?

Im not 100% set on Chanes but I am 75% set on that choice. Their A1.4 soundstage amazes me for the price and size.
If you are looking for speaker options for a similar price range, might want to look at HTD Level Three speakers. Absolutely love these speakers and I do not think you'd be able to match the build quality anywhere near this price range.
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post #16 of 27 Old 06-27-2018, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Euphorios View Post
I have Chane A1.4s for L and R. Was planning to go 3 A2.4s for front 3 then move A1.4s to surround duty then purchase some good atmos speakers. Possibly may go to goldenear or sierras, the price point per performance for goldenear is high for my income. C2 is 4ohm right? Yamaha only run 6 or 8. Do Cierras timbre match Chanes?

Im not 100% set on Chanes but I am 75% set on that choice. Their A1.4 soundstage amazes me for the price and size.
Chanes are absolutely amazing for their price, I agree 100% w/ you. Sadly they’re just never in stock.

If the GoldenEar is too expensive I’d assume the Sierra Horizon is as well coming in at ~$1000

The absolute best performance per dollar would be the Emotiva C2.

Don’t worry about the Emotivas being 4ohm. Unless you are listening beyond reference level it will not make a difference. Many AVS users have 4ohm speakers on $200 entry level AVR’s. Especially considering you’d only have one 4ohm speaker; it will be perfectly fine.

Realistically Chane 2.4 for LCR & 1.4 for surrounds would be your best option but, if you want something a little different I’d highly recommend ordering the C2. For the price no other center channel compares. It is comparable to ~$700-1000 center channels.

I’d highly recommend ordering it & testing in home, I doubt you’d want to send it back but, even if you do $40 for return shipping would be worth getting the best options available.

Also make sure to check the dimensions that you can fit the C2, it is quite a big center channel.

Let us know what you decide.

| Eqmt | Vizio 4K M50-E1 | Yamaha RX-V681 | iNUKE 3kdsp x2 | Emotiva BasX A-100 | miniDSP UMIK-1 | Monolith M1060 | Monolith USB DAC |
| Sub | Trilithon | Stonehenge Variant Subwoofer - 18” - 9ft³ - 19Hz | Marty | Microcube 390HO - 22Hz | Monolith THX Ultra 12 | Monolith THX Select 10 |
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I prefer sealed/acoustic suspension designs for the center channel, I like the NHT's.

https://www.nhthifi.com/products?cat...enter-speakers
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post #18 of 27 Old 06-29-2018, 05:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Euphorios View Post
I have Chane A1.4s for L and R. Was planning to go 3 A2.4s for front 3 then move A1.4s to surround duty then purchase some good atmos speakers. Possibly may go to goldenear or sierras, the price point per performance for goldenear is high for my income. C2 is 4ohm right? Yamaha only run 6 or 8. Do Cierras timbre match Chanes?

Im not 100% set on Chanes but I am 75% set on that choice. Their A1.4 soundstage amazes me for the price and size.
Chanes are absolutely amazing for their price, I agree 100% w/ you. Sadly they’re just never in stock.

If the GoldenEar is too expensive I’d assume the Sierra Horizon is as well coming in at ~$1000

The absolute best performance per dollar would be the Emotiva C2.

Don’t worry about the Emotivas being 4ohm. Unless you are listening beyond reference level it will not make a difference. Many AVS users have 4ohm speakers on $200 entry level AVR’s. Especially considering you’d only have one 4ohm speaker; it will be perfectly fine.

Realistically Chane 2.4 for LCR & 1.4 for surrounds would be your best option but, if you want something a little different I’d highly recommend ordering the C2. For the price no other center channel compares. It is comparable to ~$700-1000 center channels.

I’d highly recommend ordering it & testing in home, I doubt you’d want to send it back but, even if you do $40 for return shipping would be worth getting the best options available.

Also make sure to check the dimensions that you can fit the C2, it is quite a big center channel.

Let us know what you decide.
Jon Lane gave me an A2.4 for $50 off and free in home 30 day trial. Im going to test out the A2.4 and if I find it lacklustre which i doubt i would go to emotiva c2 for my next audition. I feel kind of boring if I go 3 A2.4 LCR and move my 2 A1.4 to surrounds. I was looking at some lovely towers but thats overkill and my monolith subwoofer is plenty to cover any bass response needed. Then some people were saying chane A1.4s would be wasted being used as surrounds. So my starter system will be Chane because of the price point and currently my 1900 cubic ft room has great soundstage with just my 2.1 setup. It does lack heavily in dialogue strength unless I turn up my DTS Dialogue level for my L and R. As for crossover points on the AVR I have found I feel 90hz is best. Anybody have a strong case for 80hz or 100hz over 90? My chanes are capable of 40hz and monolith capable of 15hz. Also some crossover the center at 100 or 120hz, I was wondering why because some very low male voices can reach below 100hz. Also would purchasing a umik-1 running REW and doing a sub crawl have more impact then furthering my system to 5.1? I was thinking about doing a middle step and going 3.1 with 2 A1.4s and the A2.4 center and getting a cheaper pair of surrounds to fill the soundstage and directional audio before i can afford to budget out some better fronts to move the A1.4s

The reson I was considering this is because my bedroom has tv too but no system so I was going to move the surround speakers I purchased to hold me over until I can get my goal HT. Also I hear matching rears arent important because timbre matching doesnt affect surrounds as much as fronts. Any advice on cheap surrounds that can be moved to my bedroom speakers to hold me over until my budget allows better?

Thank you friends!
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post #19 of 27 Old 06-29-2018, 05:39 AM
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Jon Lane gave me an A2.4 for $50 off and free in home 30 day trial. Im going to test out the A2.4 and if I find it lacklustre which i doubt i would go to emotiva c2 for my next audition. I feel kind of boring if I go 3 A2.4 LCR and move my 2 A1.4 to surrounds. I was looking at some lovely towers but thats overkill and my monolith subwoofer is plenty to cover any bass response needed. Then some people were saying chane A1.4s would be wasted being used as surrounds. So my starter system will be Chane because of the price point and currently my 1900 cubic ft room has great soundstage with just my 2.1 setup. It does lack heavily in dialogue strength unless I turn up my DTS Dialogue level for my L and R. As for crossover points on the AVR I have found I feel 90hz is best. Anybody have a strong case for 80hz or 100hz over 90? My chanes are capable of 40hz and monolith capable of 15hz. Also some crossover the center at 100 or 120hz, I was wondering why because some very low male voices can reach below 100hz. Also would purchasing a umik-1 running REW and doing a sub crawl have more impact then furthering my system to 5.1? I was thinking about doing a middle step and going 3.1 with 2 A1.4s and the A2.4 center and getting a cheaper pair of surrounds to fill the soundstage and directional audio before i can afford to budget out some better fronts to move the A1.4s

The reson I was considering this is because my bedroom has tv too but no system so I was going to move the surround speakers I purchased to hold me over until I can get my goal HT. Also I hear matching rears arent important because timbre matching doesnt affect surrounds as much as fronts. Any advice on cheap surrounds that can be moved to my bedroom speakers to hold me over until my budget allows better?

Thank you friends!
Very nice, can’t beat saving fifty bucks. I highly doubt as well that you will find the A2.4 lackluster but, nevertheless I understand how you feel about not wanting a complete setup. Although I love my LCR I’d never buy two more for surrounds but, they’re like ~$700 a pair so that’s that.

I don’t believe the A1.4’s would be ‘wasted’ per surround duty, especially if you do any multichannel music listening albeit matching surrounds for HT is far less needed. I personally believe the timbre match myth was created by mass speaker companies to sell more of their products.

I could see why you could have some dialogue issues in a 2.1 setup. A phantom center can work but, personally I much prefer a dedicated center channel. Especially for off axis response.

As far as crossover goes, choose whatever sounds the best to you. Somethings are worth listening to when it comes to setup, settings, etc but, if you enjoy a crossover of 90Hz then who cares that 80Hz is universally applied to recommendations. The main reason for 80Hz is that’s a little above where the human ear can start localization of sound. I don’t understand either why anyone would want their center at 100Hz or 120Hz if they’re capable of lower. I thoroughly enjoy the mid bass of my center, I want that ‘chestiness’ of vocals, especially male voices.

If you are happy with your bass & it’s integration I would not yet worry with umik & REW. I’d rather focus on adding a dedicated center channel then maybe afterwards buy a umik.

As far as cheap surrounds I’d look at

JBL B15
Emotiva BasX sats
Dayton Air
Monoprice 6” ribbon (idk model # they’re like $50-60)
SVS Prime sats

| Eqmt | Vizio 4K M50-E1 | Yamaha RX-V681 | iNUKE 3kdsp x2 | Emotiva BasX A-100 | miniDSP UMIK-1 | Monolith M1060 | Monolith USB DAC |
| Sub | Trilithon | Stonehenge Variant Subwoofer - 18” - 9ft³ - 19Hz | Marty | Microcube 390HO - 22Hz | Monolith THX Ultra 12 | Monolith THX Select 10 |
| Spkrs | HSU CCB8 x3 | SVS Prime Elevation x2 | Polk S15 |
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Jon Lane gave me an A2.4 for $50 off and free in home 30 day trial. Im going to test out the A2.4 and if I find it lacklustre which i doubt i would go to emotiva c2 for my next audition. I feel kind of boring if I go 3 A2.4 LCR and move my 2 A1.4 to surrounds. I was looking at some lovely towers but thats overkill and my monolith subwoofer is plenty to cover any bass response needed. Then some people were saying chane A1.4s would be wasted being used as surrounds. So my starter system will be Chane because of the price point and currently my 1900 cubic ft room has great soundstage with just my 2.1 setup. It does lack heavily in dialogue strength unless I turn up my DTS Dialogue level for my L and R. As for crossover points on the AVR I have found I feel 90hz is best. Anybody have a strong case for 80hz or 100hz over 90? My chanes are capable of 40hz and monolith capable of 15hz. Also some crossover the center at 100 or 120hz, I was wondering why because some very low male voices can reach below 100hz. Also would purchasing a umik-1 running REW and doing a sub crawl have more impact then furthering my system to 5.1? I was thinking about doing a middle step and going 3.1 with 2 A1.4s and the A2.4 center and getting a cheaper pair of surrounds to fill the soundstage and directional audio before i can afford to budget out some better fronts to move the A1.4s

The reson I was considering this is because my bedroom has tv too but no system so I was going to move the surround speakers I purchased to hold me over until I can get my goal HT. Also I hear matching rears arent important because timbre matching doesnt affect surrounds as much as fronts. Any advice on cheap surrounds that can be moved to my bedroom speakers to hold me over until my budget allows better?

Thank you friends!
Very nice, can’t beat saving fifty bucks. I highly doubt as well that you will find the A2.4 lackluster but, nevertheless I understand how you feel about not wanting a complete setup. Although I love my LCR I’d never buy two more for surrounds but, they’re like ~$700 a pair so that’s that.

I don’t believe the A1.4’s would be ‘wasted’ per surround duty, especially if you do any multichannel music listening albeit matching surrounds for HT is far less needed. I personally believe the timbre match myth was created by mass speaker companies to sell more of their products.

I could see why you could have some dialogue issues in a 2.1 setup. A phantom center can work but, personally I much prefer a dedicated center channel. Especially for off axis response.

As far as crossover goes, choose whatever sounds the best to you. Somethings are worth listening to when it comes to setup, settings, etc but, if you enjoy a crossover of 90Hz then who cares that 80Hz is universally applied to recommendations. The main reason for 80Hz is that’s a little above where the human ear can start localization of sound. I don’t understand either why anyone would want their center at 100Hz or 120Hz if they’re capable of lower. I thoroughly enjoy the mid bass of my center, I want that ‘chestiness’ of vocals, especially male voices.

If you are happy with your bass & it’s integration I would not yet worry with umik & REW. I’d rather focus on adding a dedicated center channel then maybe afterwards buy a umik.

As far as cheap surrounds I’d look at

JBL B15
Emotiva BasX sats
Dayton Air
Monoprice 6” ribbon (idk model # they’re like $50-60)
SVS Prime sats
Thank you,

Would you recommend powered monitors for satellites because my yamaha a2070 is driving 3 channels and i dont have an external amp and cant afford a monolith 5 amp. I wish yamaha listed THD levels with 3 and 5 channels driven i know 9 channels driven is 10% at 40w per channel. and 160w .001 thd 2 channels driven.
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post #21 of 27 Old 06-29-2018, 06:02 AM
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Thank you,

Would you recommend powered monitors for satellites because my yamaha a2070 is driving 3 channels and i dont have an external amp and cant afford a monolith 5 amp. I wish yamaha listed THD levels with 3 and 5 channels driven i know 9 channels driven is 10% at 40w per channel. and 160w .001 thd 2 channels driven.
Sure you can. Only con may be trying to calibrate them along w/ the rest of the system.

For the money I’d get either JBL LSR305 or Emotiva 5’s or 6’s.

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-2-Way-Pow.../dp/B077N2GQXC

^i think the above link is priced per speaker

The Emotiva monitors are currently not sold new by Emotiva as they’re developing a new model of them so you’d have to find them used.
But for the prices you can’t beat either one.

| Eqmt | Vizio 4K M50-E1 | Yamaha RX-V681 | iNUKE 3kdsp x2 | Emotiva BasX A-100 | miniDSP UMIK-1 | Monolith M1060 | Monolith USB DAC |
| Sub | Trilithon | Stonehenge Variant Subwoofer - 18” - 9ft³ - 19Hz | Marty | Microcube 390HO - 22Hz | Monolith THX Ultra 12 | Monolith THX Select 10 |
| Spkrs | HSU CCB8 x3 | SVS Prime Elevation x2 | Polk S15 |
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Thank you,

Would you recommend powered monitors for satellites because my yamaha a2070 is driving 3 channels and i dont have an external amp and cant afford a monolith 5 amp. I wish yamaha listed THD levels with 3 and 5 channels driven i know 9 channels driven is 10% at 40w per channel. and 160w .001 thd 2 channels driven.
Sure you can. Only con may be trying to calibrate them along w/ the rest of the system.

For the money I’d get either JBL LSR305 or Emotiva 5’s or 6’s.

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-2-Way-Pow.../dp/B077N2GQXC

^i think the above link is priced per speaker

The Emotiva monitors are currently not sold new by Emotiva as they’re developing a new model of them so you’d have to find them used.
But for the prices you can’t beat either one.
I can get 2 JBL Pro LSR308s for 500 paid over 2 years zero interest(with 15% off promo). Would you say go for that or yamaha HS7? On the THX website they rate powered monitors. Refer to attached images. Open to any options still.
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post #23 of 27 Old 06-29-2018, 07:04 AM
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I can get 2 JBL Pro LSR308s for 500 paid over 2 years zero interest(with 15% off promo). Would you say go for that or yamaha HS7? On the THX website they rate powered monitors. Refer to attached images. Open to any options still.
Yes I rather enjoy THX’s new website. I just wish they would add additional products.

Nevertheless I’ve heard the Yamaha has very distinct bass but, the JBL maybe the better overall speaker.

I would watch these for a little more insight. I don’t trust his opinions when it comes to making a decision but, helping to inform you to make a decision is another subject.

Yamaha

Mk II JBL

Original JBL

| Eqmt | Vizio 4K M50-E1 | Yamaha RX-V681 | iNUKE 3kdsp x2 | Emotiva BasX A-100 | miniDSP UMIK-1 | Monolith M1060 | Monolith USB DAC |
| Sub | Trilithon | Stonehenge Variant Subwoofer - 18” - 9ft³ - 19Hz | Marty | Microcube 390HO - 22Hz | Monolith THX Ultra 12 | Monolith THX Select 10 |
| Spkrs | HSU CCB8 x3 | SVS Prime Elevation x2 | Polk S15 |
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Originally Posted by Euphorios View Post
I can get 2 JBL Pro LSR308s for 500 paid over 2 years zero interest(with 15% off promo). Would you say go for that or yamaha HS7? On the THX website they rate powered monitors. Refer to attached images. Open to any options still.
Yes I rather enjoy THX’s new website. I just wish they would add additional products.

Nevertheless I’ve heard the Yamaha has very distinct bass but, the JBL maybe the better overall speaker.

I would watch these for a little more insight. I don’t trust his opinions when it comes to making a decision but, helping to inform you to make a decision is another subject.

Yamaha

Mk II JBL

Original JBL
Interesting. Once I get to the 700 price point what about kef LS50. I think thats probably way overkill for satellites. Also i feel bad spending 250 a powered speaker or worse 1200 for ls50s. I mean my end goal is a 5.2.4 system with my 5 powered by monolith 5 amp($1000) then power my atmos speakers through my a2070. If I got LS50s i mean i could move them to my bedroom speakers and not worry about an avr or full setup there.
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post #25 of 27 Old 06-29-2018, 07:39 AM
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Interesting. Once I get to the 700 price point what about kef LS50. I think thats probably way overkill for satellites. Also i feel bad spending 250 a powered speaker or worse 1200 for ls50s. I mean my end goal is a 5.2.4 system with my 5 powered by monolith 5 amp($1000) then power my atmos speakers through my a2070. If I got LS50s i mean i could move them to my bedroom speakers and not worry about an avr or full setup there.
There’s no way I’d talk you out of getting LS50’s, although definitely not for surround duty.

I’d get them and make them there own 2.1 setup.

I’d personally love to have a set. Either white w/ the blue cone or grey w/ the red cone.

They are so gorgeous & those highs, oh those highs.

| Eqmt | Vizio 4K M50-E1 | Yamaha RX-V681 | iNUKE 3kdsp x2 | Emotiva BasX A-100 | miniDSP UMIK-1 | Monolith M1060 | Monolith USB DAC |
| Sub | Trilithon | Stonehenge Variant Subwoofer - 18” - 9ft³ - 19Hz | Marty | Microcube 390HO - 22Hz | Monolith THX Ultra 12 | Monolith THX Select 10 |
| Spkrs | HSU CCB8 x3 | SVS Prime Elevation x2 | Polk S15 |
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Interesting. Once I get to the 700 price point what about kef LS50. I think thats probably way overkill for satellites. Also i feel bad spending 250 a powered speaker or worse 1200 for ls50s. I mean my end goal is a 5.2.4 system with my 5 powered by monolith 5 amp($1000) then power my atmos speakers through my a2070. If I got LS50s i mean i could move them to my bedroom speakers and not worry about an avr or full setup there.
There’s no way I’d talk you out of getting LS50’s, although definitely not for surround duty.

I’d get them and make them there own 2.1 setup.

I’d personally love to have a set. Either white w/ the blue cone or grey w/ the red cone.

They are so gorgeous & those highs, oh those highs.
I hear the ls50w have digital firmware update capabilities improving their performance as kef advances tech. I wish they could upgrade the regular ls50 because I can get a great deal on them.
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post #27 of 27 Old 06-29-2018, 08:09 AM
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I hear the ls50w have digital firmware update capabilities improving their performance as kef advances tech. I wish they could upgrade the regular ls50 because I can get a great deal on them.
Well you can look at it from two different vantage points.

1) The wireless set has dual amps per speaker, therefore once the amp goes bad, more than likely out of warranty; you’ll have a $2k doorstop. Although the advantages of them being active is their DSP, inputs, & as you stated the updates.

I find the DSP considerable but, $1,000 more considerable? Well that’s not for me to decide.

2) The passives having no internals therefore results in not having to worry about them crapping out within or outside of the warranty. You’ll definitely get your moneys worth without having to worry about putting more money back into them later on.


IMO if I were to get LS50’s I’d splurge the extra cash & get the wireless version. I find the DSP worth the extra price tag, that way it’s tailored exactly as the designers intentions beyond what the crossover allows.

| Eqmt | Vizio 4K M50-E1 | Yamaha RX-V681 | iNUKE 3kdsp x2 | Emotiva BasX A-100 | miniDSP UMIK-1 | Monolith M1060 | Monolith USB DAC |
| Sub | Trilithon | Stonehenge Variant Subwoofer - 18” - 9ft³ - 19Hz | Marty | Microcube 390HO - 22Hz | Monolith THX Ultra 12 | Monolith THX Select 10 |
| Spkrs | HSU CCB8 x3 | SVS Prime Elevation x2 | Polk S15 |
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