Originally Posted by TheWarrior97
I tried the setting you described first, increasing the sub trim to 6 and leaving the extra bass off and increasing the bass in tone control to 6, not much of a difference.
...........HOWEVER, you hit the nail on the head with that muddy flat comment. I set the manual eq as you stated, turned the sub trim and tone control back to normal and THAT was what I was looking for! Even my wife said that's what she remembered!! We turned it back to flat eq and the experience was completely different for us, we felt like we were watching a movie rather than being in the movie. Is this wrong to want to feel the movie?
So many questions.
So what does this mean and where do I go from here? Would keeping that setting for the SVS ruin the sub? Is this muddy/boomy reference wrong to have? Does it mean I can't distinguish an explosion from a dinosaur stepping on the ground if I keep this setting? I would like accurate sound...whatever that sounds like, but I really want that boomy feeling like being in the actual movie....how can I get both? 18"?? Should I take my foot out of the rabbit hole, or still jump in?
Is this boomy feeling have something to do with tightness or headroom or what?
Thanks again DaBateman for helping me figure out MY problem, now onto solving it.
There’s nothing wrong with you liking that sound. Rather than focusing on what is considered “correct” you should enjoy your system regardless of what needs to be done to achieve that.
The more “boomy-ness” we’re referring to is what you’d commonly refer to as mid-bass..somewhere around 40-100Hz.
Also no keeping those EQ settings will not ruin the SVS sub, the plate amp does have a limiter set so its nearly impossible to damage it.
Again there’s nothing wrong with wanting more midbass. A lot of DIY users have specific subs called MBM (midbass module) that cover those specific frequencies.
You’ll be able to distinguish the difference for sure it’ll just take some time training your ear what the difference between midbass and ULF is. A lot of times people think they’re hearing subsonic frequencies meaning 20 or less and it’s really 30-40Hz so that’ll just take time.
IMO an accurate sound is a completely flat frequency response but, if that’s not for you that’s fine too. IMO if you’re listening to music I’d turn the flat EQ setting on and if watching TV/movie I’d turn it back to manual.
I may be biased having gone down the DIY hole but, you don’t know what you’re missing until you know. A lot of folks here on the subwoofer subforum gets furious when we come over recommending DIY subs but, it’s for a good reason..although I also understand it’s not for everyone.
IMO I’d still send the SVS back and build (2) VBSS’s after finding out that you like mid-bass. The driver is the Dayton PA460 and it’s about $90. It’s a pro audio woofer so that’s one reason it excels at midbass but it also has a high sensitivity so it doesn’t need thousands of watts to power it to reference.
So figure $180 for drivers, $60 for wood, $50 for misc stuff like glue and connectors, and $450 for the amp (I’d still get the NX6000D to allow future builds and plenty of headroom) so you could have a killer system for ~$740. The VBSS thread is linked above. I’d also post on it or make a new thread on the DIY subforum and ask about port tuning. You liking midbass more you may want to tune them a little higher.
Edit: I forgot to add the VBSS (PA460) is an 18”. I would stick with 18’s only. With bigger cone area it keeps everything better, distortion, headroom, SPL, etc.