Subwoofer comparisons and impressions - Page 33 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #961 of 1774 Old 02-24-2019, 11:21 AM
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I'm also in NJ, Hillsborough to be exact and am always looking for fellow enthusiasts and ht friends
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post #962 of 1774 Old 02-25-2019, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post
Of all the JTR subs I've heard the 118HT had the best SQ in my opinion, better than the S1 I own. Jeff seemingly never appreciated my review where I said the 118HT was "polite and subtle, until it was time not to be subtle". That was a compliment as far as I was concerned, but he felt otherwise. I prefer detail and precision, qualities that don't shout "look at me!". The S1 has a tendency to be in your face sometimes, while the 118HT never displayed that. The S1 fit my size restrictions however, otherwise I likely would have chosen the 118HT for my own personal sub instead.
Jeff no want Polite and Subtle, Jeff want brutal and kinda stabby.
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post #963 of 1774 Old 02-25-2019, 11:58 AM
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Just a quick update on my new 2400ULF situation for anyone who cares and is waiting for the comparison between the V3601's and the 2400ULFs.

I received the amp on Saturday (thanks Jeff) and let it sit a few hours and then installed it. I started to take pics to document the process of changing out the amp so it would be available if anyone else in the future needs a reference but honestly it was so easy and self explanatory that I stopped... the whole process took less than 10 minutes.

Anyway, after installing it I let the sub sit overnight and it was over 24 hours before that amp was plugged in (taking the precautions Enrico suggested). Everything seems to be working fine and I've run Audyssey and have done some listening but I have much more to do before I write up any comparison. I hope to be able to give a comparison by Thursday or so.

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Guide to Subwoofer Calibration and Bass Preferences
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post #964 of 1774 Old 02-25-2019, 02:59 PM
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I am indeed. NW corner, Warren county. And you?
Middlesex county, North Brunswick. We should meet up. Would love to have you over and hear your opinion about my system. I have been in Ht for last 4 years but didn't change many subs/speakers so my knowledge on how different subs sound is very limited. Having your opinion and also listening to your system would be great.
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post #965 of 1774 Old 02-25-2019, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by subacabra View Post
I'm also in NJ, Hillsborough to be exact and am always looking for fellow enthusiasts and ht friends
Oh cool. Same here we can even do a small gtg :-)
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post #966 of 1774 Old 02-25-2019, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopinater View Post
Just a quick update on my new 2400ULF situation for anyone who cares and is waiting for the comparison between the V3601's and the 2400ULFs.

I received the amp on Saturday (thanks Jeff) and let it sit a few hours and then installed it. I started to take pics to document the process of changing out the amp so it would be available if anyone else in the future needs a reference but honestly it was so easy and self explanatory that I stopped... the whole process took less than 10 minutes.

Anyway, after installing it I let the sub sit overnight and it was over 24 hours before that amp was plugged in (taking the precautions Enrico suggested). Everything seems to be working fine and I've run Audyssey and have done some listening but I have much more to do before I write up any comparison. I hope to be able to give a comparison by Thursday or so.
That's awesome. Don't make us wait too long please. May be an initial impression and then last a detail session followed by in depth session :-)
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post #967 of 1774 Old 02-25-2019, 03:09 PM
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Oh cool. Same here we can even do a small gtg :-)
Sweet! Practically right up the road lol
Yeah I'm down anytime. Got a new projector on the way next month and new seating tomorrow.
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post #968 of 1774 Old 02-25-2019, 07:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopinater View Post
Just a quick update on my new 2400ULF situation for anyone who cares and is waiting for the comparison between the V3601's and the 2400ULFs.



I received the amp on Saturday (thanks Jeff) and let it sit a few hours and then installed it. I started to take pics to document the process of changing out the amp so it would be available if anyone else in the future needs a reference but honestly it was so easy and self explanatory that I stopped... the whole process took less than 10 minutes.



Anyway, after installing it I let the sub sit overnight and it was over 24 hours before that amp was plugged in (taking the precautions Enrico suggested). Everything seems to be working fine and I've run Audyssey and have done some listening but I have much more to do before I write up any comparison. I hope to be able to give a comparison by Thursday or so.


Glad to see you got it all sorted out. Looking forward to reading your impressions


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post #969 of 1774 Old 02-25-2019, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopinater View Post
Just a quick update on my new 2400ULF situation for anyone who cares and is waiting for the comparison between the V3601's and the 2400ULFs.

I received the amp on Saturday (thanks Jeff) and let it sit a few hours and then installed it. I started to take pics to document the process of changing out the amp so it would be available if anyone else in the future needs a reference but honestly it was so easy and self explanatory that I stopped... the whole process took less than 10 minutes.

Anyway, after installing it I let the sub sit overnight and it was over 24 hours before that amp was plugged in (taking the precautions Enrico suggested). Everything seems to be working fine and I've run Audyssey and have done some listening but I have much more to do before I write up any comparison. I hope to be able to give a comparison by Thursday or so.
Nice
Can't wait till Thursday!


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post #970 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 02:11 AM
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enricoclaudio post on sweating during initial startup of amps opened my eyes to be more careful...just bought a new computer and felt the super cold case when unboxed and didnt plug it in til acclimated/warmed up to room temp...I do have experience living in alaska and never had a prob with my electronics going inside to outside in winter...maybe my camera gear and cell phones and laptops just designed different than amps.
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post #971 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 02:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torii View Post
enricoclaudio post on sweating during initial startup of amps opened my eyes to be more careful...just bought a new computer and felt the super cold case when unboxed and didnt plug it in til acclimated/warmed up to room temp...I do have experience living in alaska and never had a prob with my electronics going inside to outside in winter...maybe my camera gear and cell phones and laptops just designed different than amps.
I do have a question regarding cold weather and electronics... Instead of letting the device acclimating to the room temp, can we speed up the process by using a blow dryer at low heat, probably 1 ft away? I suppose putting it near a fireplace should work?

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post #972 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
I do have a question regarding cold weather and electronics... Instead of letting the device acclimating to the room temp, can we speed up the process by using a blow dryer at low heat, probably 1 ft away? I suppose putting it near a fireplace should work?

my computer got room temp very quickly...I used one of those infra red thermometers to get readings. took about 3 hrs when outside was 26F and inside 72f.

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post #973 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Hopinater View Post
I hope to be able to give a comparison by Thursday or so.
Guess what today is???

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post #974 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 06:52 AM
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Subwoofer comparisons and impressions

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Originally Posted by ereed View Post
Guess what today is???

Lol, tick tock...no pressure Hop.

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post #975 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
I do have a question regarding cold weather and electronics... Instead of letting the device acclimating to the room temp, can we speed up the process by using a blow dryer at low heat, probably 1 ft away? I suppose putting it near a fireplace should work?
That might work, but why risk it? If you quickly open the box in your home it will almost instantly create condensation. I’d rather leave it in the box, and slowly let it acclimate. This way no condensation would even form, I would prefer it not have any condensation myself. I can wait a day or 2 vs risking the chance of damage.

Is my way any better than hastily opening my new toy, letting condensation form, then heating it with a hairdryer....not a clue. I’ve never tried it.

Just my opinion. I have a little experience dealing with this stuff living in Minnesota my entire life. every once in a while it gets cold here. lol
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post #976 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 08:27 AM
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V3001 vs 2400ULF Part 2

Okay here is the part that some of you seem to be interested in. How does the V3601 and the 2400ULF sound when compared to one another. This is a question where the answer would vary with every room you compared them and I think that needs to be kept mind whenever we compare subwoofers of similar type, size and power. The room plays a vital role, as vital as the subs.

All right here we go... First off let me say this was truly a lot of fun, even though I wasn't able to compare the subs head to head I was able to compare them in the same room, under the same conditions and listening levels with the same material, material that I know very well. What became obvious to me is that this was a battle of two titans. Obviously, since both are massive ported subs there are many ways they are more similar than different, even though one is a low port tuned monster with tons of ULF capability while the other has a higher port tune with the gobs and gobs of mid-bass output. But in some ways this was a comparison of apples to oranges (even thought they are both ported beasts) because of their port tunes and what they focus on.

I'll start with music. I didn't do a ton of this because I've never done much listening to music in my HT so it just wasn't all that important to me. What I listened to was classic rock (like Rush) and some jazz (like Harry Connick Jr) where both had an emphasis on bass. For the most part I didn't crank the music (but I did at times). What I focused on was playing it at moderate listening levels, loud but not too loud. Final conclusion, they both actually sound good with music. But the V3601's won out. The 2400ULF did well and sounds good but it lingers a bit more where as the V3601 is punchier. So if I was going to use these subs in a room where I conducted critical listening I would choose the V3601's. On that note, to my ear the V3601 is a nice musical sub, I think all the extra mid-bass capability that this sub has allows it to play music with no strain what so ever so you can crank it if you want and the sub is effortless. But the 2400 still sounds good so don't walk away from this thinking it doesn't.

Okay now on to the movies. I did a lot of my comparing with my dad in the room who is very familiar with the V3601 and through the years has watched a lot of demo material as well as entire movies in my HT, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to have a 2nd set of ears. Plus he loves this type of stuff, he's been into audio forever and he's the one who got me started down this road back in 1983 when he went with me to pick out my first set up. He was as excited to hear the 2400ULF as I was.

Anyway, as interesting as music was, movies (to me) is where the whole ULF vs. Mid-bass focus in subwoofer design really becomes evident. Having said that, it wasn't as obvious as I thought it would be. For some reason I was expecting a night and day difference and it wasn't that. There was an obvious difference but it wasn't as in your face as I thought it might be. I also want to mention that Mike Thomas has made some good posts recently regarding how some people seem to have a preference for ULF bass while others seem to desire more mid-bass. After doing this comparison this really became evident between my dad and myself.

I watched a number of demo clips and am very familiar with these clips on the V3601 so the fact they weren't in the room going head to head with the 2400ULF may not have been ideal but I think I was still able to do a decent comparison. I played War of the Worlds (pod scene), Olympus Has fallen (monument scene), Ender's Game (both launch scenes), TIH (ULF cannon scene as well as others), Oblivion (cord break scene), WWZ (grenade scene), 13 hours (various scenes), How to Train your Dragon (the huge dragon scene at the end), Interstellar (black hole scene), Blade Runner 2049 (dam scene, but you could play this whole movie), The Force Awakens (Kylo Ren and Rey scene). The list goes on but I'm blanking on the rest. I was able to get Audyssey to set my sub trims at the same levels as the V3601 and then ran the 2400ULF 6dB hot just like I normally did with he V3601's. I mostly watched at my normal MV level of -18 to -16.

One other note, I watched the scenes first without the Crowsons and then again with them on. I think this was very important because with the Crowson's (in my concrete slab basement) your brain seems to get tricked into thinking you are getting a lot more ULF output then if you have them off. I always used the Crowsons with the V3601's so to be fair I used them with the 2400ULF's as well (after seeing how they sounded by themselves first).

Okay, enough with laying the foundation... what were my dad's and my conclusions. LOL... in a nutshell my dad preferred the V3601 mid-bass monster while I preferred the low port tuned 2400ULF. The low port tuned 2400ULF definitely makes its presence known, it brings exactly what I was looking for... a low end weight and impact that you just can't ignore. It's what Ray (Imureh) described to me on the phone that made me want a low port tuned sub. If I had to describe it with a word, it brings with it an ominous presence where as the V3601 has a powerful but smooth presence. I noticed it in most (but not all) of the bass demos. But even more importantly, I noticed it when I watched portions of movies like Total Recall that just had general background music and effects, but were not actual bass scenes. Now part of this was how hot I was running them, the subs bring out any lower bass they can get their hands on. If I backed off on how hot I was running them that ominous presence can go into the background... somewhat. I really like that presence though, so why back them off?

To me, this weight and impact is really awesome, it's what the guys from the GTG between the 2400ULF and Rythmik FV25HP said these subs bring. But it can be intense and to my dad it detracted from the movie. It was too overbearing for his tastes. And even in the demos scenes he felt that it kind of overpowered the scene, not badly but a little more than he liked. Whereas I liked it... I liked it a lot! I found the 2400ULF with that low port tune was able to find more bass notes to bring out of the scenes. Good examples of this was the cord break scene in Oblivion and the scene between Rey and Kilo Ren in the Force Awakens (where he uses the Force to read her mind). Another is of course the pod scene from War of the Worlds. My dad on the other hand, found that he preferred a less powerful ULF presence. Trust me when I say the deep power and the TR of the 2400ULF can really smack a room around, it will find new rattles in a heartbeat.

Having said all that. There were demo scenes where the V3601 seemed to have had more impact and intensity, like the Dam scene in Blade Runner 2049. When I watched that scene with the V3601's it could get overwhelming with the intensity it delivered. Another scene is in Lone Survivor where the helicopters dropped off the four soldiers. I don't think that scene is all that low and all that mid-bass power from the V3601's combined with the Crowsons really makes that scene intense in my room. And as I sat there watching those scenes I was reminded just how great of a sub the V3601 really is. There were also scenes where the two subs seemed very even (as I said, it wasn't a night and day difference). Don't think the V3601 isn't able to put out great bass below 20Hz. In my room The V3601's could put out very good bass down to at least 16 to 17Hz. But a low port tuned monster like the 2400ULF can go far beyond that, it's what it's made to do.

As much as I loved my V3601's I was craving the impact and weight of a low port tuned sub and the 2400ULF does not disappoint. I really like the way it delivers its bass. My dad on the other hand kind of misses the V3601's. So I guess this is an interesting example that when you set out to buy a sub, demo different subs that focus on different areas and choose the one that delivers the bass you are most interested in.

All in all, both subs are absolutely great. They have incredible output and great bass. They both have areas where they shine over the other but as for me I really found that I prefer the impact of a low port tuned monster and that is exactly what the 2400ULF is. Rythmik has their answer for the low port tuned subs in the FV25HP and maybe someday other companies will come out with more versions as well.

I do have a small Part 3 segment that I think is important but I'm tired of typing. I'll be back later. I hope all of this may be useful to some of you someday as you shop for subs.

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Last edited by Hopinater; 02-28-2019 at 08:34 AM.
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post #977 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 08:46 AM
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Hop, you hit the nail on the head! I see so many people using drivers that are better at midbass than ULF and prefer it. I started that way and had tons midbass with a flat response to 5hz because of my room. I then started using big x-max drivers which created a peak down low rather than flat and less efficient in the mid bass and I seemed to like them better. I kept trying different alignments and then decided to try the RE monster 18s and they have the most ULF I have owned and I like them the best even though lacking midbass somewhat. It is interesting that we both are on concrete as well. I have thought about adding eminence, dayton, or B&C drivers but I keep forgetting I already have been there. I am adding two more RE drivers!
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post #978 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 09:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Great write up @Hop inator and not surprising to me to be honest. By the way where did you have the RSC on the V3601 and LFA on the 2400? The LFA can really add a lot more impact on the 2400...Also be interested to see if you noticed anything in clarity between the two, I think you noticed it in music. The high excursion driver does have longer decay times so would be interesting to get your thoughts. The FV18 I have seem to have a great balance between ULF and mid bass for my room. As you say its very room dependent and one statement of mine that Marc Alexander wanted to coin "there is the sub, there is the room and then there is the sub for the room" I am glad you are happy bud
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post #979 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imureh View Post
Great write up @Hop inator and not surprising to me to be honest. By the way where did you have the RSC on the V3601 and LFA on the 2400? The LFA can really add a lot more impact on the 2400...Also be interested to see if you noticed anything in clarity between the two, I think you noticed it in music. The high excursion driver does have longer decay times so would be interesting to get your thoughts. The FV18 I have seem to have a great balance between ULF and mid bass for my room. As you say its very room dependent and one statement of mine that Marc Alexander wanted to coin "there is the sub, there is the room and then there is the sub for the room" I am glad you are happy bud
Thanks imureh. Both were set to max level for the largest room setting.

The V3601 wins the battle for clarity. The V3601 is buttery smooth and clean with its bass (I think that's why my dad likes it more) where as the 2400ULF is more impactful. As I said, they both shine in different arenas.

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Guide to Subwoofer Calibration and Bass Preferences

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post #980 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 10:54 AM
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Thanks imureh. Both were set to max level for the largest room setting.

The V3601 wins the battle for clarity. The V3601 is buttery smooth and clean with its bass (I think that's why my dad likes it more) where as the 2400ULF is more impactful. As I said, they both shine in different arenas.

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post #981 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 11:03 AM
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V3601 vs. 2400ULF Part 3

Okay I wrote out the good news, now for the bad news. Last night while I was sitting around with my wife listening to music at very low levels the amp on the 2400ULF (the one I just replaced) started acting up. It cut out and started flashing a series of red lights. I know from past discussions with Tom at PSA the amp will send a coded message with its light flashes to tell you whats wrong (but I don't know the secret code). So this situation is different than the other amp problem because that amp problem just cycled on and off with no light flashes and no sound.

Now today I turned the sub on and let the TV run at moderate listening levels and it worked fine for the few minutes I was able to test it. I need to get back at this and see if the problem comes back but obviously now I'm nervous there is an issue. SIGH... If this does turn out to be another issue I think I'm leaning to just returning the 2400ULFs to Jeff as painful as that would be for me. I hope it doesn't come to that but I'm beginning to walk on egg shells around that sub and I have very little confidence right now in these amps or that they will last. And before anyone asks I'm running a different and new set of BJC sub cables on that sub. I did that just as a precaution.

By the way, I really don't think these amp issues have anything to do with Jeff at JTR. I think its a Speaker Power issue... perhaps they've lost some of their credibility for decent QC. That amp was working fine for three days and then suddenly it started acting up for no reason at all. This type of thing happens and its unfortunate. I'm sure Jeff isn't thrilled about it.

This brings up one very important thing that I learned in all of this. Jeff is not so good at communication. He takes care of you and his turn around time for my amp issue (once he returned from vacation) was good. He got back on Sunday and sent out the new amp on Tuesday so that was good customer service. But he never called me or returned an email telling me the status of the situation... so I was left in limbo for a while. Some people may care about such things and others may not. Personally I like communication but I know others are more laid back and are fine with that so what ever works for you is all that matters.

Okay, that's it. That's the extent of my comparison at this point. I hope all three parts were useful for those shopping around.

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post #982 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 11:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Subwoofer comparisons and impressions

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopinater View Post
V3601 vs. 2400ULF Part 3



Okay I wrote out the good news, now for the bad news. Last night while I was sitting around with my wife listening to music at very low levels the amp on the 2400ULF (the one I just replaced) started acting up. It cut out and started flashing a series of red lights. I know from past discussions with Tom at PSA the amp will send a coded message with its light flashes to tell you whats wrong (but I don't know the secret code). So this situation is different than the other amp problem because that amp problem just cycled on and off with no light flashes and no sound.



Now today I turned the sub on and let the TV run at moderate listening levels and it worked fine for the few minutes I was able to test it. I need to get back at this and see if the problem comes back but obviously now I'm nervous there is an issue. SIGH... If this does turn out to be another issue I think I'm leaning to just returning the 2400ULFs to Jeff as painful as that would be for me. I hope it doesn't come to that but I'm beginning to walk on egg shells around that sub and I have very little confidence right now in these amps or that they will last. And before anyone asks I'm running a different and new set of BJC sub cables on that sub. I did that just as a precaution.



By the way, I really don't think these amp issues have anything to do with Jeff at JTR. I think its a Speaker Power issue... perhaps they've lost some of their credibility for decent QC. That amp was working fine for three days and then suddenly it started acting up for no reason at all.



This brings up one very important thing that I learned in all of this. Jeff is not so good at communication. He takes care of you and his turn around time for my amp issue (once he returned from vacation) was good. He got back on Sunday and sent out the new amp on Tuesday so that was good customer service. But he never called me or returned an email telling me the status of the situation... so I was left in limbo for a while. Some people may care about such things and others may not. Personally I like communication but I know others are more laid back and are fine with that so what ever works for you is all that matters.



Okay, that's it. That's the extent of my comparison at this point. I hope all three parts were useful for those shopping around.


Ok this sucks man. In all honesty I think I know you enough to say that you need to get the product that you can enjoy and not have to worry about all the time and fret about not hearing back and no follow up etc. If you don’t get to enjoy your subs then what’s the point? Hope you get this sorted out within the 30 day JTR return window.


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post #983 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopinater View Post
V3601 vs. 2400ULF Part 3

Okay I wrote out the good news, now for the bad news. Last night while I was sitting around with my wife listening to music at very low levels the amp on the 2400ULF (the one I just replaced) started acting up. It cut out and started flashing a series of red lights. I know from past discussions with Tom at PSA the amp will send a coded message with its light flashes to tell you whats wrong (but I don't know the secret code). So this situation is different than the other amp problem because that amp problem just cycled on and off with no light flashes and no sound.

Now today I turned the sub on and let the TV run at moderate listening levels and it worked fine for the few minutes I was able to test it. I need to get back at this and see if the problem comes back but obviously now I'm nervous there is an issue. SIGH... If this does turn out to be another issue I think I'm leaning to just returning the 2400ULFs to Jeff as painful as that would be for me. I hope it doesn't come to that but I'm beginning to walk on egg shells around that sub and I have very little confidence right now in these amps or that they will last. And before anyone asks I'm running a different and new set of BJC sub cables on that sub. I did that just as a precaution.

By the way, I really don't think these amp issues have anything to do with Jeff at JTR. I think its a Speaker Power issue... perhaps they've lost some of their credibility for decent QC. That amp was working fine for three days and then suddenly it started acting up for no reason at all. This type of thing happens and its unfortunate. I'm sure Jeff isn't thrilled about it.

This brings up one very important thing that I learned in all of this. Jeff is not so good at communication. He takes care of you and his turn around time for my amp issue (once he returned from vacation) was good. He got back on Sunday and sent out the new amp on Tuesday so that was good customer service. But he never called me or returned an email telling me the status of the situation... so I was left in limbo for a while. Some people may care about such things and others may not. Personally I like communication but I know others are more laid back and are fine with that so what ever works for you is all that matters.

Okay, that's it. That's the extent of my comparison at this point. I hope all three parts were useful for those shopping around.
In our Hypex amps, there is code that trigger the red flashing LED if one wire on the driver side is loose. You may want to check the wires again as one could have been left loose after you replaced the amp.

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post #984 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 11:42 AM
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Another scene is in Lone Survivor where the helicopters dropped off the four soldiers. I don't think that scene is all that low and all that mid-bass power from the V3601's combined with the Crowsons really makes that scene intense in my room.
All that low? The chinook scene in Lone Survivor is the lowest and longest sustained note in the entire catalog of ULF tracks...by a long shot. It has a sustained 6hz fundamental that lasts for almost 2 1/2 minutes straight. If any scene in any movie is going to cook a woofer, it's that scene.
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post #985 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 11:50 AM
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All that low? The chinook scene in Lone Survivor is the lowest and longest sustained note in the entire catalog of ULF tracks...by a long shot. It has a sustained 6hz fundamental that lasts for almost 2 1/2 minutes straight. If any scene in any movie is going to cook a woofer, it's that scene.
Well that is interesting. I wonder why would it would seem to me the V3601 was more intense? I'll have too give it a re-listen and see. Maybe by that time I was cooked as far as listening and absorbing information. It was the last demo in a long series of demos. Either way both subs make that scene fun.

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Well that is interesting. I wonder why would it would seem to me the V3601 was more intense? I'll have too give it a re-listen and see. Maybe by that time I was cooked as far as listening and absorbing information. It was the last demo in a long series of demos. Either way both subs make that scene fun.
I have no doubt about that for sure. Also, fwiw I don't know if the 3601 has any type of limiter on it, or "Subsonic filter" but either of those would probably remove most of the 6hz effect. With the 2400 you will see some major movement from the driver even with the HPF being above that, it still sneaks in there a good bit.
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post #987 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 12:02 PM
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In our Hypex amps, there is code that trigger the red flashing LED if one wire on the driver side is loose. You may want to check the wires again as one could have been left loose after you replaced the amp.
I could pull the amp out and check again but I'm pretty obsessive compulsive when I deal with things and I triple checked, those wire clamps were tight on that amp and I was gentle putting it back in. I never had to put any tension on the wires so the wires on the driver never took any tension, they were hanging loose the entire time so if they are loose they were shipped loose (but I don't think that's the case).

Now this is the interesting part to me, it happened when the music was low so the signal going to the amp was low. The one subwoofer was fine but the other one had it's little episode. After it shut down with it flashes I switched over to TV with a stronger signal but it wouldn't come back on until I very gently moved the RCA connection and sub cable. Then it came on briefly and then went back into its coded flashing. But now today it working with the TV on.

I've had the TV going for an hour and it's doing fine but I may see if it low music causes it to act up gain. Either way I will email Jeff about it and see what he has to say.

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post #988 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 12:06 PM
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Ok this sucks man. In all honesty I think I know you enough to say that you need to get the product that you can enjoy and not have to worry about all the time and fret about not hearing back and no follow up etc. If you don’t get to enjoy your subs then what’s the point? Hope you get this sorted out within the 30 day JTR return window.
Yeah I'm watching that closely. I like these subs but they are making me nervous. I've never had a sub struggle like this. Its great for hours and then it has an issue.

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post #989 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 01:16 PM
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Yeah I'm watching that closely. I like these subs but they are making me nervous. I've never had a sub struggle like this. Its great for hours and then it has an issue.

Hi Hop,

I sincerely hope that you get that subwoofer issue sorted out!

I wanted to compliment you on your thorough and balanced comparison of the two different subs. They are both excellent subs, and I liked the way that you described them. It makes perfect sense that there would be things to like and appreciate about both of them. And, it makes perfect sense that your Dad and you had slightly different preferences for movie listening. Different strokes and all that.

I have never been all that fond of talking about night-and-day differences in audio. I think that people may get a little carried away, at times, with their enthusiasm for changes they have made. Most of the changes I have made to my audio system, or to my room, have been incremental in nature, or even subtle. And, I have made them over a period of time. Put enough incremental changes together, and the difference might be night-and-day, but I'm usually not in a position to compare things that way.

With that said, though, I think that the Crowson's made your comparison a little less dramatic than it might otherwise have been. What I mean by that is that the Crowson's did exactly what they were designed to do, which was to augment the low-bass, and especially the ULF, TR. And, in doing that, they helped to level the playing field a little bit between the V3601's and the Cap 2400ULF's. I imagine you thought of that, but what could you do at that point?

I think that if you had always been listening to the V3601's, without the Crowson's, and then you suddenly started listening to the Cap 2400's, the difference in the low-frequency response would have seemed even more dramatic. FWIW, I believe that below 30Hz, and especially below 20Hz, we feel low-frequencies as much or more than we hear them, and that's exactly where the Cap 2400's have the biggest advantage. But, the use of the Crowson's, in both comparisons, would have served to obscure some of the advantage of the Cap 2400's, in that respect.

This isn't in any way a criticism of your comparison. Since you had already been listening with the Crowson's, there really wasn't any other good way to compare the subs. You did it exactly right, in my opinion! It's just an observation for why the difference between the subs might not have seemed even more dramatic than it actually did.

I know that you already know this next part, but I think it's worth stating, anyway. With the subwoofer boosts you are currently using, your Cap 2400's should have a good bit more very low-frequency headroom, where the V3601's probably didn't. So, if you ever did want to demonstrate an even more dramatic low-frequency difference between the subs, you probably could.

I really hope that the Cap 2400ULF's work-out for you. They sound like just what you were looking for.

Regards,
Mike
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post #990 of 1774 Old 02-28-2019, 02:20 PM
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Thanks Mike.

Yeah the 2400ULF is really a stunning subwoofer and I think Jeff did a great job in the design. I would recommend them to anyone seeking ULF and all that goes with it. Obviously the amp issue has me concerned...

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