PB-4000 Am I doing something wrong? - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 03:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
I 100% want to do this right. I am rushing it in no way. I just figured the sub would blow be away right after turning it on and then tuning it would make it even better.

Alright so for the 3rd time I reset my receiver to default and did the same for the sub.

I ran Audyssey again. I am unable to set my sub's gain lower or higher than about 20-23 Audyssey won't let me. It makes me do a sub level match. See here.

https://youtu.be/XrdOG8pjMeY

After this run my sub trim was at -0.5 db. I moved my sub over more to the left and put my front main speaker to the right of it. That is the only difference.

I made this video below to show what I am doing. It is all so basic I don't know what I could be doing wrong.

I purchased the sub from SVS' outlet, so hopefully it isn't bad.

https://youtu.be/datRp55BYt8
Ok so as far as Audyssey not letting you set your sub gain higher or lower. I know what you are talking about. When you first enter the Audyssey setup before the actual chirps start there is a test tone sent to just the sub. You are correct that Audyssey is wanting to get you to have the sub at 75dB. However you don't have to do it that way. I have 2 subs and I believe during that Audyssey level matching I had each sub at about 78 dB or so, so for you with one sub I would try to adjust the sub gain (volume on sub itself) between the 78 and 81 dB mark in the Audyssey level matching screen. Then when Audyssey throws up an error as it will you can choose to continue with the Audyssey calibration (the chirps) even with the error in sub level. If you do this when Audyssey is done you should end up with a sub trim level of -9 to -6 dB. Then boost that up to -3 dB or -1 dB at the highest. (Make sure you are adjusting the sub trim level in the test tone section where the level of all the speakers is shown. Best of luck to you.
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post #62 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 05:53 AM
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I just want to say something to the OP

DON'T LOOSE FAITH !!!

i was going through a similar experience when i first got my Outlaw X12 (my living room / theater has some weird shapes).

But in the end it only took a few "Inches" of moving the sub then BAM the Bass came alive.

You may never get it perfect but sometimes moving the sub forward/left/right a few inches makes a HUGE difference.

You could also move the couch and set the sub on the floor where your MLP is located to do your sub crawl.

Speakers: KEF Q100, Q300, Q750, Q650C / Fluance Signature Series Bookshelf, SX6, XL5F/ Mirage M-190 / DCM TP160S-CH Subwoofers: Outlaw Ultra X12 (x2) / BIC H100-II
Receiver: Denon AVR-X4500H, AVR-X1400H Integrated Amplifier: Yamaha A-S501/ Fosi Audio TPA3116 mini amp Extras: MiniDSP Umik-1 Amplifier: Emotiva BasX-A300
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post #63 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 06:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkmarket View Post
Have you tried the pfar54 crawl yet? I'd set a test tone on youtube at 20, 30 and 40hz and then crawl around the room and see if you can find spots where it shakes the earth. Easier than moving the sub to the mlp and at least you'll know how big of an issue your sub placement is or if it is indeed your main problem. If you do find spots in your room where the sub finally meets your listening expectations then yep, it's time to do the subwoofer crawl to make it work.
Not yet. I moved the sub further left though. I didn't notice any difference. Waiting for the weekend to do the crawl.

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Originally Posted by torii View Post
this guy has bunch of simple youtube vids...maybe it can help...if this one doesnt help maybe his channel has others to help....he has a lot.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FR2AM4_ifXU
Thanks I watched a few. He isn't doing anything differently than I am though.

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Originally Posted by AmerCa View Post
I actually watched your videos. Here's the thing, your sub gain is too low, and Audyssey is reporting it, so it's resorting to other measures to raise the trim levels, I'm not sure how the Subwoofer Level Adjust (SLA) works, but is a feature not recommended to raise the sub levels. The sub gain is NOT controlled by the AVR, so if you can't get past -22 on the app, try raising it manually either with the remote or on the sub itself. If you can't do it, there's your problem.

In any case, I leave you the link that was posted earlier with the magnificent guide (albeit too long and imposing) that will give you more specific info, infi that will help you with future setups and will give you a better understanding of how bass works. The cliff notes on top are already very helpful, and give all the basic info (and more) that has been given you in this thread,. You can jump to specific sections for more in-depth explanations.

If you somehow think Audyssey is the culprit, you can always turn it off and see how your system works without it, without losing the EQ parameters that Audyssey set to improve frequency response (FR) in your room. Play with MV, sub gain and trim levels just to test your sub pre calibration.

But you need to be able to raise the sub gain!!!!

Calibration Guide: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...eferences.html
I made the first video to show how when I set the sub under/over the 75dB point it throws that warning and asks to do sub-level matching. In this calibration, I took the sub to -22. See below to what flickhtguru said.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pieface1 View Post
I don't know the SVS interface but it looks like you had the sub gain set to -30 if that is what the tablet was showing?

Assuming the -30 was the sub gain setting...

You mentioned earlier that SVS recommended -10 as the starting point for the calibration. You have the gain (~volume) turned way down on the sub - the closer to 0 the more gain (louder) you have the sub dialled in. Audessy is reporting that the sub is not loud enough. You must increase the sub gain to get into the volume range that Audessy can set the level relative to the other speaker channels with the available trim settings in the AVR. This process is automated once you have given the subwoofer enough gain.

Shoot the same video with the gain on the subwoofer set to -10 as suggested by SVS. What does Audessy report?
I'll try this based on the response below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flickhtguru View Post
Ok so as far as Audyssey not letting you set your sub gain higher or lower. I know what you are talking about. When you first enter the Audyssey setup before the actual chirps start there is a test tone sent to just the sub. You are correct that Audyssey is wanting to get you to have the sub at 75dB. However you don't have to do it that way. I have 2 subs and I believe during that Audyssey level matching I had each sub at about 78 dB or so, so for you with one sub I would try to adjust the sub gain (volume on sub itself) between the 78 and 81 dB mark in the Audyssey level matching screen. Then when Audyssey throws up an error as it will you can choose to continue with the Audyssey calibration (the chirps) even with the error in sub level. If you do this when Audyssey is done you should end up with a sub trim level of -9 to -6 dB. Then boost that up to -3 dB or -1 dB at the highest. (Make sure you are adjusting the sub trim level in the test tone section where the level of all the speakers is shown. Best of luck to you.
Yes, this is exactly what it has been doing. I didn't know I could keep going without the level matching. I'll give it a shot.

Thanks everyone. Updates coming later today.
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post #64 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
I had the sub level set at 0 for the new Audyssey run this past time. However, I turned it off as you mentioned.

What does your sub sound like when you scroll down to it on the test tone page? Can you hear the sub? If so, how loud?

Here is what my settings are at post Audy config.

It's quiet unless you turn the AVR to MV -0 which is Reference and the level Audy uses to calibrate the system. Your sub gain level on the amp is now set too low. You need to adjust it so that Audy ends up around -9db post calibration. As previously mentioned don't worry about the Audy level warning. Set the level to 80-81db and run the program. Afterwards go back to this screen manually adjust the sub level +6db...SO if it reports -9, then move it up to -3 and report back.
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Last edited by basshead81; 11-30-2018 at 07:11 AM.
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post #65 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 07:19 AM
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I'm not talking about moving the sub around yet, I'm talking about leaving the sub where it is at and you crawling around the room with a 20hz, 30hz and 40hz tone and seeing if you can find places where it comes alive to your expectation. That should give you an idea of whether or not you have a setting issue or a location issue. You don't have to move your 155lb sub yet to do that. If you do determine it's the subs location then yes, you have to move the sub to the mlp to determine the best possible location.
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post #66 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 07:25 AM
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I honestly was disappointed in my SVS PB12-Plus when I got it. It took me a year or two to figure out what was wrong.

I had a resonance in my room. I measured this with REW and used the built in PEQ to tame this resonance. Then I ran Audyssey. The results were night and day by comparison. Suddenly I had all the low sub 40Hz bass I expected.

Based on my REW measurements, it seems like Audyssey saw this resonance as the natural roll off of the sub and just stopped trying to EQ it. When I tamed the resonance it no longer saw that and saw a nice flat response and just tuned that response further.

If you could do some cursory measurements it might be the same problem I had. You can use the PEQ via the app to fix that and see if it makes a difference.
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post #67 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 10:53 AM - Thread Starter
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What is MLP and ML/MP(forget which one)? I keep seeing it used in this forum section.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkmarket View Post
I'm not talking about moving the sub around yet, I'm talking about leaving the sub where it is at and you crawling around the room with a 20hz, 30hz and 40hz tone and seeing if you can find places where it comes alive to your expectation. That should give you an idea of whether or not you have a setting issue or a location issue. You don't have to move your 155lb sub yet to do that. If you do determine it's the subs location then yes, you have to move the sub to the mlp to determine the best possible location.
I'll give it a shot. Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdiver2489 View Post
I honestly was disappointed in my SVS PB12-Plus when I got it. It took me a year or two to figure out what was wrong.

I had a resonance in my room. I measured this with REW and used the built in PEQ to tame this resonance. Then I ran Audyssey. The results were night and day by comparison. Suddenly I had all the low sub 40Hz bass I expected.

Based on my REW measurements, it seems like Audyssey saw this resonance as the natural roll off of the sub and just stopped trying to EQ it. When I tamed the resonance it no longer saw that and saw a nice flat response and just tuned that response further.

If you could do some cursory measurements it might be the same problem I had. You can use the PEQ via the app to fix that and see if it makes a difference.
Thanks. Any specific things I need to do to measure? I've never heard of this type of measure, let alone how to do it.
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post #68 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 11:14 AM
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call svs and have them walk you through setup and troubleshooting thats what you pay extra for when you buy svs products - good customer service
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post #69 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
What is MLP and ML/MP(forget which one)? I keep seeing it used in this forum section.




I'll give it a shot. Thanks



Thanks. Any specific things I need to do to measure? I've never heard of this type of measure, let alone how to do it.
MLP = Main listening Point/Position

To do the measurements the bare minimum you need is a radioshack style SPL meter and a signal generator. You can do it manually by outputting a test tone to your receiver every 5 Hz or so. Then just go through each one and write it down. Note that there is error in a cheap SPL meter so you need to look up the corrections and take those into account.

The alterantive is you can install room equalization wizard (https://www.roomeqwizard.com/) and run that program. It automates the process but again make sure that you load in the correction file for whatever mic you are using.

This will solve your problem very quickly I think once you get the hang of it. I know it sounds like a lot of work and to some degree it is but it will be worth it even if you don't keep the SVS.
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post #70 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
Any specific things I need to do to measure? I've never heard of this type of measure, let alone how to do it.
See the REW guide linked in my sig, and this thread.
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post #71 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
After doing Audyssey again, no change in improved sound. The level was at 0 after this run of Audyssey (pretty sure it was last time too).

Anything else I can try. Plain and simple, I am extremely dissapointed in the performance of this sub. I appreciate the higher quality in lows, but at the same time for the price they cost, it should sound louder.
It takes some testing I had to run audyssey a coupe of times. If I remember after the screen showing speaker distances it should have on that will list the connect speakers with a + or - db value to the right. Sometimes you have to reset the entire thin and start from scratch. When in the set up from SVS they say the sub trim level should be -3 to - 10 it is at the screen showing the + or - db level of all the speakers where it should show that -3 to -10 amount you might have to go to "check results" from this screen http://manuals.denon.com/AVRX3100W/N...SYdgawypva.php

The volume knob on the back fo the sub should be at 10 o clock or midnight when you first run Audyssey, and then you ONLY adjust it there until your subwoofer trim on you AVR shows between -3 and -10
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post #72 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 02:51 PM
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This thread is kind of funny TBH. Imagining poor PFAR54 crawling around on the floor with a 150lb sub trying to find the ideal spot. The wife standing in the doorway shaking her head. lol.



There are some differences here that nobody has really mentioned so far, well not clearly anyways.


The original sub was down firing, the SVS is front firing. In the original post, it was mentioned that the speakers were set to Small. Were they set to Small with the original Sub? If they were set to Large, that would explain why it seems this new sub is not putting out as much bass. You are turning over all of the bass effects to it, and this is now coming from one place in the room, instead of all around you.


I know on my Monolith 12" sub, I tried following the instructions as everyone is mentioning here, but the bass was just not enough. I am considering adding two 18" subs in future, but for now I just set my speakers to Large and that improved it enough for my liking. I also have a second sub which I left connected, and it covers some of the frequencies that the Monolith is not handling so well, together they seem to fill the gap.


Maybe PFAR54 just needs to play with some of the speaker settings until he finds something that works as he desires, and stop trying to make the SVS into a magic whole room bass pump.


Is the sub sitting on a concrete floor by any chance? Maybe try turning it around so the bass bounces off the wall behind? Move it into a corner, Hook up the old sub to the second channel and see if that fills in what your missing/wanting.


One thing is certain, if the auto calibration software is showing 75db output, then the sub is working as designed. You can tweek it a bit, but if it is not filling up the room, you need to reconsider it's application.
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post #73 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 03:20 PM
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I am a complete noob, clearly, but isnt the placement of the sub an issue? Not just off by a few inches but possible one of the worst places in his room?

Throw that bad boy on some wheels and move it around, if you have a helper you could play a tone through it as someone sits on the couch and once the bass is adequate at the MLP, try to get your sub close to there.

I know you said you are limited on placement, but as others have said, where your MLP is in relation to the sub could just unfortunately be in a standing wave node.
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post #74 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost Recon View Post
I am a complete noob, clearly, but isnt the placement of the sub an issue? Not just off by a few inches but possible one of the worst places in his room?

Throw that bad boy on some wheels and move it around, if you have a helper you could play a tone through it as someone sits on the couch and once the bass is adequate at the MLP, try to get your sub close to there.

I know you said you are limited on placement, but as others have said, where your MLP is in relation to the sub could just unfortunately be in a standing wave node.
Actually it is a nice post
You are correct, location is one of the most important thing, when it come to sub/s.
In the case of the OP, it start to look now, it is more a setting issue. Since the sub location is not that bad.


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post #75 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 03:55 PM
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I'm watching this thread carefully as I just picked up a Monolith 15" sub (replacing an old Pioneer 8" subwoofer!) hooked up an AVR-X4400H and am similarly underwhelmed with the performance after running the auto setup. I'm reading the subwoofer calibration and Audyssey FAQs and will take another stab at it tonight after a few tips posted in this thread.

In my case the Monolith 15" sub is in the corner of a 30' W x 20' D x ~10' H room, so I was expecting to need 2, but was hoping to at least get some decent thump with one to start. I'm hoping it's a setup issue as well...

Not intending to hijack, just saying I feel your pain, OP!!
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post #76 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdiver2489 View Post
MLP = Main listening Point/Position

To do the measurements the bare minimum you need is a radioshack style SPL meter and a signal generator. You can do it manually by outputting a test tone to your receiver every 5 Hz or so. Then just go through each one and write it down. Note that there is error in a cheap SPL meter so you need to look up the corrections and take those into account.

The alterantive is you can install room equalization wizard (https://www.roomeqwizard.com/) and run that program. It automates the process but again make sure that you load in the correction file for whatever mic you are using.

This will solve your problem very quickly I think once you get the hang of it. I know it sounds like a lot of work and to some degree it is but it will be worth it even if you don't keep the SVS.

Just providing a link for the Radio Shack SPL, correction table;
https://www.subwoofer-builder.com/SPL-corrections.htm


Ray
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post #77 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 07:58 PM
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give it a few more weeks to loosen up.
run this piss out of it, like you stole it.

my pb-4000 took on a whole new level of kick and grunt, after 2 or 3 weeks, and continues to get better and better.
ive had the best luck with the actual sub set at -17 or so, when calibrating, then usually run the av trim at -10 to -6 at times.
i can tell you this, theres a fine point when you can have your stuff run a tad hot, or over, and it will fall on its face and actually loose out put .
mine will do that with just a few clicks at times, and i can back off the actual sub a few dbs, and it will regain its punch.
sometimes less is better

it has taken me a few months , and alot of tinkering , but mine has bass so good, low, and clean now, it will bring tears to your eyes on some songs, the bass sounds so darn good
i had no idea bass was so hard to perfect, but it is like chasing the wind at times.
keep at it, that pb-4000 you have is one potent black box my friend.
mine will actually shake my couch , with me on it, at 1:15 of this song

yes, mine also sounds weak on the sub noise when calibrating .


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post #78 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nodoubt View Post
give it a few more weeks to loosen up.
run this piss out of it, like you stole it.

my pb-4000 took on a whole new level of kick and grunt, after 2 or 3 weeks, and continues to get better and better.
ive had the best luck with the actual sub set at -17 or so, when calibrating, then usually run the av trim at -10 to -6 at times.
i can tell you this, theres a fine point when you can have your stuff run a tad hot, or over, and it will fall on its face and actually loose out put .
mine will do that with just a few clicks at times, and i can back off the actual sub a few dbs, and it will regain its punch.
sometimes less is better

it has taken me a few months , and alot of tinkering , but mine has bass so good, low, and clean now, it will bring tears to your eyes on some songs, the bass sounds so darn good
i had no idea bass was so hard to perfect, but it is like chasing the wind at times.
keep at it, that pb-4000 you have is one potent black box my friend.
mine will actually shake my couch , with me on it, at 1:15 of this song

yes, mine also sounds weak on the sub noise when calibrating .


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhB7quYvcMA

I like to call-it, chasing the White Rabbit
Achieving perfect bass, do require lots of patience/research and experimentations.
But once done, it is Nirvana. Glad you have achieve yours


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post #79 of 272 Old 11-30-2018, 10:31 PM
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Soooo, I went through this same thing when I moved from an ancient 10" JBL to a PSA 1500. So I moved from a 10" 300W sub to a 15" 800(ish?)W sub. And like the OP is saying, I was severely underwhelmed by what I would call the 'rap' range. From 40hz and up, the JBL actually did kill the PSA when it came out output. Was it probably distorted as hell and sounded like crap? Yea maybe, but it was louder. The PSA kicked ass down low, down to some areas the JBL never ventured. But that little JBL, with it's higher tune and my carelessness with the gain knob, allowed it to be louder than the PSAi in a certain range.

So OP, I feel your pain. I needed that 40-80hz boominess back so now I have 4 18" subs. I don't think this is a placement issue at all like everyone else. You are just used to hearing a higher tuned little sub be really loud in one area, and the SVS probably can't reach that area as well. It does other things much better, but it can't do everything.
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post #80 of 272 Old 12-01-2018, 07:59 AM
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Any luck with improvements?
What are you watching to test it with? Just curious
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post #81 of 272 Old 12-01-2018, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raylon View Post
Soooo, I went through this same thing when I moved from an ancient 10" JBL to a PSA 1500. So I moved from a 10" 300W sub to a 15" 800(ish?)W sub. And like the OP is saying, I was severely underwhelmed by what I would call the 'rap' range. From 40hz and up, the JBL actually did kill the PSA when it came out output. Was it probably distorted as hell and sounded like crap? Yea maybe, but it was louder. The PSA kicked ass down low, down to some areas the JBL never ventured. But that little JBL, with it's higher tune and my carelessness with the gain knob, allowed it to be louder than the PSAi in a certain range.

So OP, I feel your pain. I needed that 40-80hz boominess back so now I have 4 18" subs. I don't think this is a placement issue at all like everyone else. You are just used to hearing a higher tuned little sub be really loud in one area, and the SVS probably can't reach that area as well. It does other things much better, but it can't do everything.
I get what you are saying, but There is no way that a 10" JBL even comes close to a PSA 1500 anywhere. I had the 12" JBL in my room and it wasn't it even close. Actually I have had several brick and mortar subs in my room to compare...Paradigm PDR10, JBL ES250, Polk PSW505...again not close anywhere. All of these subs are 106-110db subs in the 40-80hz with the peak of their output centered around 50hz. The PSA 1500 is a 115-117db sub in that range.

It does take time for your ears to adjust to a sub with a cleaner flatter response. Most of the Brick and Mortar subs are 50hz 1 note boomers.

The PB-4000 is not efficient in the upper end of the frequency range <50hz, but looking at it's output numbers his previous shouldn't be close anywhere.

I do agree that it might not be a placement issue, it could be a calibration issue...I had to do some manipulating with the setup to get the same level of Bass with the Marantz 6012 that has Audyssey XT32 compared to my Yamaha's that have YPAO. Audyssey is not really easy to setup for a Novice. If you do the standard calibration process that it prompts you to do, then you end up with a high dollar sub that has NO BASS.

Mike Thomas has a excellent setup guide that all owners of AVR's with XT32 should read.

The OP does not need a mic or change placement yet. There are some order of operations I would do to try and figure out the problem.

Let's start fresh and try these steps:

1) Pre calibration. Use the level match function in Audyssey. Adjust the level of the sub past the green. Set it for 80-82 db. Ignore the warning and proceed to calibrate.

2) After the calibration finishes. Go in the the manual setup and set all speakers small, 80-90hz cross overs.

3) Verify that Audy set the sub level around the -9 range. Then move it up to -3.

4) Do not use the sub level adjust, that just ends up clipping the signal.

5) If still low bass output, Then turn Audyssey off together, and move the sub trim in the AVR level to 0, and start increasing the Sub level in on the sub amp. If you start to get good bass output then you know Audyssey is trying to apply too much EQ to fix a potential room response issue. Now it's time to invest in a mic and start moving the sub around and measuring the room response to find a area that will require the least amount of EQ to flatten the response.

6) If still No bass output, Disconnect the sub from the AVR and hook it up directly to a smart phone with a 3mm to rca y adapter and play some music. If the sub has good bass output then you have a AVR or cable issue.

7) If still nothing...Call SVS. SVS has had some minor issues with amps. I had to have the amp replaced on my SB12 due the gain side failing and I couldn't get any output from it.
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Hey everyone. I ran Audyssey again. I put the sub at -10 gain (what SVS recommended - from my first post). This put the sub trim to -12 db. Is this good or should I run Audyssey again at a lower gain? If it is good, what should I do?


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manually adjust the sub level from -12 up to -6.
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Hey everyone. I ran Audyssey again. I put the sub at -10 gain (what SVS recommended - from my first post). This put the sub trim to -12 db. Is this good or should I run Audyssey again at a lower gain? If it is good, what should I do?
No sub gain is too high. You will need to lower sub gain until you wind up with a a sub trim slightly more than -12. Aim for 10-11. -12 is the max negative trim so you have no idea if it's really -12 or -20 (if the AVR could go that low). When Audy gives you the sub gain calibration screen (triggered when sub is significantly out of expected gain range) instead of adjusting gain for a 75db level try somewhere around 80 and see what trim you get. Then adjust sub gain up or down and try again aiming for trim -10/-11. I have found it's often close to a 1:1 correlation. After this process you can increase sub gain and/or avr sub trim to your liking but you need to start with a calibrated 75db baseline and if you maxed the negative sub trim you just don't know where you are starting from. Also post calibration don't adjust AVR trim higher than -5db as it can cause clipping. If you need more just make further increases at sub gain. You are doing the same thing essentially.
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manually adjust the sub level from -12 up to -6.
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No sub gain is too high. You will need to lower sub gain until you wind up with a a sub trim slightly more than -12. Aim for 10-11. -12 is the max negative trim so you have no idea if it's really -12 or -20 (if the AVR could go that low). When Audy gives you the sub gain calibration screen (triggered when sub is significantly out of expected gain range) instead of adjusting gain for a 75db level try somewhere around 80 and see what trim you get. Then adjust sub gain up or down to wind up and try again aiming for trim -10/-11. I have found it's often close to a 1:1 correlation. After this process you can increase sub gain and/or avr sub trim to your liking but you need to start with a calibrated 75db baseline and if you maxed the negative sub trim you just don't know where you are starting from. Also post calibration don't adjust AVR trim higher than -5db as it can cause clipping. If you need more just make further increases at sub gain. You are doing the same thing essentially.
Ok ran Audyssey again. I let the sub-level matching get to 81db. It took the sub-trim to -8 after calibration. I then adjusted this to -5dB. This thing still doesn't sound good. I am playing music now at 65 (0-98) on my receiver. The base is minimum.
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Ok ran Audyssey again. I let the sub-level matching get to 81db. It took the sub-trim to -8 after calibration. I then adjusted this to -5dB. This thing still doesn't sound good. I am playing music now at 65 (0-98) on my receiver. The base is minimum.
I highly encourage you to do this to help you avoid wasting any more of your time. Go find yourself a headphone jack to RCA cable, plug your phone/tablet/mp3 player to one end and the other to your sub. Play a test track. If the base is still "lacking" return the sub. There's something wrong with it.
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Ok ran Audyssey again. I let the sub-level matching get to 81db. It took the sub-trim to -8 after calibration. I then adjusted this to -5dB. This thing still doesn't sound good. I am playing music now at 65 (0-98) on my receiver. The base is minimum.
why didn't you adjust it 6db instead of 3? Move the trim up to -2, if still not enough try 0. If still not enough...follow the steps I posted 2 posts back. You have to follow directions in order to be helped.
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Ok ran Audyssey again. I let the sub-level matching get to 81db. It took the sub-trim to -8 after calibration. I then adjusted this to -5dB. This thing still doesn't sound good. I am playing music now at 65 (0-98) on my receiver. The base is minimum.
So you are now running +3db hot which isn't a whole lot. Leave sub trim where it is. Try adding another 4-6db at sub gain now. Are you using dynamic eq? Turning it on may help when you are well below (-33) reference volume. Also can you tell us how your crossovers are set? Audy sometimes sets them very low if you have decent sized mains so much of the mid bass would be directed to the mains. Put them at 80Hz to start. If Audy had set them to like 40Hz that could make a huge difference.

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I highly encourage you to do this to help you avoid wasting any more of your time. Go find yourself a headphone jack to RCA cable, plug your phone/tablet/mp3 player to one end and the other to your sub. Play a test track. If the base is still "lacking" return the sub. There's something wrong with it.
Agree with this and I had advised this earlier in the thread. I think he needed to purchase a cable first. However I will say that if Audy mic is measuring 75db at a reasonable sub gain it most likely is functioning normally.

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why didn't you adjust it 6db instead of 3? Move the trim up to -2, if still not enough try 0. If still not enough...follow the steps I posted 2 posts back. You have to follow directions in order to be helped.
There has been multiple options posted as to what the trim should be after calibration. I took the average.

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I highly encourage you to do this to help you avoid wasting any more of your time. Go find yourself a headphone jack to RCA cable, plug your phone/tablet/mp3 player to one end and the other to your sub. Play a test track. If the base is still "lacking" return the sub. There's something wrong with it.
So went to the store and got these. The bass isn’t any different.

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So you are now running +3db hot which isn't a whole lot. Leave sub trim where it is. Try adding another 4-6db at sub gain now. Are you using dynamic eq? Turning it on may help when you are well below reference volume. Also can you tell us how your crossovers are set? Audy sometimes sets them very low if you have decent sized mains so much of the mid bass would be directed to the mains. Put them at 80Hz to start. If Audy had set them to like 40Hz that could make a huge difference.




Agree with this and I had advised this earlier in the thread. I think he needed to purchase a cable first. However I will say that if Audy mic is measuring 75db at a reasonable sub gain it most likely is functioning normally.
I turned the sub gain to -3 for listening right now. It maxes at 0, so I am basically maxed. (-60 - 0).

I am using dynamic eq.

Crossovers - all small speakers. Fronts are at 80, center 90, surrounds 110.

The app is still reading 89 dB for spl. This is sound maxed out.
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There has been multiple options posted as to what the trim should be after calibration. I took the average.



So went to the store and got these. The bass isn’t any different.



I turned the sub gain to -3 for listening right now. It maxes at 0, so I am basically maxed. (-60 - 0).

I am using dynamic eq.

Crossovers - all small speakers. Fronts are at 80, center 90, surrounds 110.

The app is still reading 89 dB for spl. This is sound maxed out.
Well seems odd at this point. I'm assuming you have walked around the room and the bass isn't any better somewhere other than MLP? Maybe just try a microprocessor reset on your AVR and run Audy one more time. If no different then give SVS a call and see what they say.

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