PB-4000 Am I doing something wrong? - Page 7 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #181 of 268 Old 12-06-2018, 03:48 PM
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@d-rail34

Thanks again. My current trims and distances were correctly set by AccuEQ, that's why I found your comments a bit confusing. Also, it doesn't seem to matter my settings prior calibration. AccuEQ seems to ignore them and start from scratch. Which I'd think it's the correct behavior. However, whenever I have the chance I'll try your method just to see what happens. Appreciate the input.
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post #182 of 268 Old 12-06-2018, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmerCa View Post
@d-rail34

Thanks again. My current trims and distances were correctly set by AccuEQ, that's why I found your comments a bit confusing. Also, it doesn't seem to matter my settings prior calibration. AccuEQ seems to ignore them and start from scratch. Which I'd think it's the correct behavior. However, whenever I have the chance I'll try your method just to see what happens. Appreciate the input.
Mine were actually pretty close for the most part, but there were a couple of them that were way off.

And yeah, give it try. I'm curious to see what it does in your room.
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post #183 of 268 Old 12-06-2018, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by d-rail34 View Post
I definitely mispoke on that. My bad.

And I'm really not sure why it made such an impact on my calibration, but it really did make a huge difference. I mean, I had to at least try it out. Lol
Did you change anything else? I mean anything? Adding a center channel for example(and using phantom before) for example?

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post #184 of 268 Old 12-06-2018, 04:43 PM
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Did you change anything else? I mean anything? Adding a center channel for example(and using phantom before) for example?

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The only change made was the suggested MV adjustment, and turning my sub gain back to -10 from -6 prior to calibration. Also, I have a center, so no on the phantom.

The only real differene to the room itself is a Christmas tree and some decorations.

Now y'all really have me wondering what the heck actually made the difference. Lol

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post #185 of 268 Old 12-06-2018, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
Onkyos are a strange animal...

On any AVR I've ever used, none being an Onkyo, when you run the calibration it doesn't matter where the MV or speaker trims were set before-hand. I always assumed AccuEQ worked the same as Audyssey, YPAO and MCACC in that regard...maybe not. And if so, that is exceedingly strange.
It also doesn't matter with an Onkyo. Test tones are emitted at the same volume no matter where the MV is set prior to running the auto setup.
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post #186 of 268 Old 12-06-2018, 05:33 PM
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did charles come to your rescue yet ?
are you guys thru the 1st 12 pack yet, and belching beer and pizza ?
are you booming yet, or still bumming ?
im bored tonight, and this thread- problem- really has me befuddled.
im telling you, my 4000 will actually shake my couch and walls on certain songs, and ive yet to even push it to the levels ive seen online.
i MIGHT of had my woofer moving a half inch a few times, and its insane at that level.
i doubt ill ever see the end of the road with this thing.
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post #187 of 268 Old 12-06-2018, 07:06 PM
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Ha me 2 . Did you talk to svs after you installed replacememt amp? I wonder if their is some other issue and they could swap and send you a new 4000 to try without charging you more if you have a outlet unit.
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post #188 of 268 Old 12-07-2018, 12:13 PM
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So what is going on here. Did you get this thing dialed in yet? I wish you the best man.
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post #189 of 268 Old 12-07-2018, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nodoubt View Post
did charles come to your rescue yet ?
are you guys thru the 1st 12 pack yet, and belching beer and pizza ?
are you booming yet, or still bumming ?
im bored tonight, and this thread- problem- really has me befuddled.
im telling you, my 4000 will actually shake my couch and walls on certain songs, and ive yet to even push it to the levels ive seen online.
i MIGHT of had my woofer moving a half inch a few times, and its insane at that level.
i doubt ill ever see the end of the road with this thing.
When I play the bass testing songs that have been posted on this thread, the bass shakes the walls at some points. I'm not meaning that the sub always sounds horrible. The only time it sounds decent is when I have the receiver turned way up (around -10 volume and -3 gain) and it is only for lower frequencies. The higher frequencies (45-70) the sub is really quiet.

I am in no way meaning that no sound comes out of the sub. I just have to turn everything to its highest level. During normal volume (-40 to -20) the sub is barely audible. Even when the volume is way up though it doesn't impress me. It in no way is better than my old sub, except lower volumes. To me, that is not worth $2,000 and all of this headache.

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So what is going on here. Did you get this thing dialed in yet? I wish you the best man.
I ordered a longer sub rca cord so that I could position the sub in the corner - SVS's instructions. I will install later tonight and see if it helps.

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post #190 of 268 Old 12-07-2018, 03:05 PM
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Maybe I missed it...but did you try walking around the room? And if so, was the bass (45-70hz) a LOT stronger in other areas?? If not, it's a sub/equipment problem...if so, it's a placement problem.
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post #191 of 268 Old 12-07-2018, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
Maybe I missed it...but did you try walking around the room? And if so, was the bass (45-70hz) a LOT stronger in other areas?? If not, it's a sub/equipment problem...if so, it's a placement problem.
Its only been asked 20 times at least Alan , a dozen by me but never directly got a response

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post #192 of 268 Old 12-07-2018, 04:23 PM
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I didn't read through the whole thread, but I see the low pass filter on the subwoofer is enabled on the first page. If it hasn't been mentioned already, make sure it is disabled.

Last edited by Mandroid; 12-07-2018 at 04:25 PM. Reason: clarification
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post #193 of 268 Old 12-07-2018, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
When I play the bass testing songs that have been posted on this thread, the bass shakes the walls at some points. I'm not meaning that the sub always sounds horrible. The only time it sounds decent is when I have the receiver turned way up (around -10 volume and -3 gain) and it is only for lower frequencies. The higher frequencies (45-70) the sub is really quiet.

I am in no way meaning that no sound comes out of the sub. I just have to turn everything to its highest level. During normal volume (-40 to -20) the sub is barely audible. Even when the volume is way up though it doesn't impress me. It in no way is better than my old sub, except lower volumes. To me, that is not worth $2,000 and all of this headache.



I ordered a longer sub rca cord so that I could position the sub in the corner - SVS's instructions. I will install later tonight and see if it helps.
well thats the 1st time ive seen you post that the sub actually hits the low end ans shakes stuff.
its working then.
problem is placement, and settings.
ive calibrated my onkyo rz 820 a dozen times, and every time the sub sounds diff
did you try the negative polarity swap like i suggested ?
mine was lifeless till i did that
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post #194 of 268 Old 12-07-2018, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
When I play the bass testing songs that have been posted on this thread, the bass shakes the walls at some points. I'm not meaning that the sub always sounds horrible. The only time it sounds decent is when I have the receiver turned way up (around -10 volume and -3 gain) and it is only for lower frequencies. The higher frequencies (45-70) the sub is really quiet.

I am in no way meaning that no sound comes out of the sub. I just have to turn everything to its highest level. During normal volume (-40 to -20) the sub is barely audible. Even when the volume is way up though it doesn't impress me. It in no way is better than my old sub, except lower volumes. To me, that is not worth $2,000 and all of this headache.

I ordered a longer sub rca cord so that I could position the sub in the corner - SVS's instructions. I will install later tonight and see if it helps.

Hi,

I don't think that anyone wants you to keep the PB4000, if you think that it's too much of a headache for too little return. But what you seem to be saying now is significantly different from what I thought you were saying before. Apparently, you aren't lacking bass, you are just lacking mid-bass. That may very well be a placement issue. It is also entirely possible that your previous subwoofer, while not playing the very low-frequencies that I assume you bought the PB4000 for, had a peak that you liked in the mid-bass. Perhaps it was distorted sound, but that can be harder to identify with bass frequencies. Louder distorted bass, may just sound louder, until we get used to hearing undistorted sound.

I still think that having Dave there to measure your frequency response will help a lot. You may have some cancellation occurring in the mid-bass which is knocking down the volume. Until and unless he does that, though, there are some things you can try to enhance your mid-bass. One of them is to run your subwoofer in the all ports open 20Hz mode, if you are currently running it in the one port Extended mode. That will increase the mid-bass slightly relative to the low-bass. You should rerun Audyssey if you change the port tune, and don't forget to change to Standard mode in the sub's DSP.

Second, you can go into the subwoofer's digital menu and set some pre-programmed PEQ to add a 2+db boost centered on 63Hz. That frequency is sort of the sweet spot for mid-bass. Third, you can implement cascading crossovers, which are explained in detail in a section of the Guide that I am giving you a direct link to below. That will take you about 5 minutes to implement, and it will also concentrate more SPL in the mid-bass range. Doing all three of those things will give you relatively much more mid-bass. Perhaps too much, but you can be the judge of that. If you have down-loaded the Audyssey app, you may be able to add even more mid-bass if you want to.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...nces.html#IIIC

One of the advantages of the subwoofer you have now is it's versatility. It is a low-frequency specialist. But, if you know what you are doing, you can also enhance it's mid-bass capabilities. If it turns out that you are experiencing some cancellation in the mid-bass range, which Dave's measurements can determine, there will be several things you can try, including moving the subwoofer slightly or adjusting it's distance or its phase setting. But, you won't know about that until you measure the sub's performance in the room.

If, after everything, it's really still not giving you as much mid-bass as you want relative to the low-bass, then I would buy a subwoofer which emphasizes the mid-bass more, relative to the low-bass. The PSA V3611 should be perfect for you, in that case, or perhaps the JTR Cap 118HT. Both subwoofers would give you relatively more mid-bass than the PB4000, and they would be much better subwoofers than the HSU you were considering. But, I would try the other suggestions first. You have already got the subwoofer in your room. You may as well find out what it can do, and learn a little bit more about what frequencies you really like the most, in the process.

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #195 of 268 Old 12-07-2018, 07:51 PM
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You might be happier buying two lower budget subs with higher distortion like BIC PL-200s that'll hit hard in the mid to upper range giving the loudness you seem to be expecting.

I still have a BIC and while I don't like it now compared to what I have, the distortion definitely made the sub sound louder (and boomier) in the mid-bass. You would be losing lower frequencies and cleaner sub sound, though.
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post #196 of 268 Old 12-07-2018, 07:59 PM
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I think back to all the times I bought a speaker/sub...1st thing I did was hook em up and crank em to see if they worked...for subs 0mv and adjusting gain knob on sub amp to see if it could go max gain(most cant) and what level it sounded best at...cant believe op still dicking around with it

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post #197 of 268 Old 12-07-2018, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nodoubt View Post
problem is placement, and settings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Apparently, you aren't lacking bass, you are just lacking mid-bass. That may very well be a placement issue.
Well, today I experienced how a bad b1tch bass can be. Due to some random circumstance, I moved my chair back aprox. 30cm (1ft), and it suddenly unlocked some bass I hadn't heard before. I wasn't lacking bass before, but I was aware I was making some compromises at certain frequencies.

But those small 30cm to the back made some notable difference. I actually watched the same movie I had watched the day before in this new spot, and I liked the bass much better, even when the bass was actually 2db lower!! Yes, it sounded louder than when I watched the same movie with 2db bass boost. Who could have imagined that? It wasn't like day and night difference, but it was clearly noticeable, and bass sounded a bit more uniform.

The moral to the story is that the solution to a bass problem may be 1ft to the back...or to the left...or forward. Who knows? Even with REW you could have to test every inch of space available just to know for sure what's the best spot.

Enviado desde mi XT1032 mediante Tapatalk
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post #198 of 268 Old 12-08-2018, 05:42 AM
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Any luck with new placement of sub?
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post #199 of 268 Old 12-08-2018, 07:26 PM
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Any luck with new placement of sub?
must be too much beer and pizza
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post #200 of 268 Old 12-10-2018, 07:21 AM
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@pfar54 : Any luck ? did you move sub around at all to see if it improved? or is it going back to svs

Last edited by golden78; 12-10-2018 at 07:25 AM.
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post #201 of 268 Old 12-10-2018, 05:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

I don't think that anyone wants you to keep the PB4000, if you think that it's too much of a headache for too little return. But what you seem to be saying now is significantly different from what I thought you were saying before. Apparently, you aren't lacking bass, you are just lacking mid-bass. That may very well be a placement issue. It is also entirely possible that your previous subwoofer, while not playing the very low-frequencies that I assume you bought the PB4000 for, had a peak that you liked in the mid-bass. Perhaps it was distorted sound, but that can be harder to identify with bass frequencies. Louder distorted bass, may just sound louder, until we get used to hearing undistorted sound.

I still think that having Dave there to measure your frequency response will help a lot. You may have some cancellation occurring in the mid-bass which is knocking down the volume. Until and unless he does that, though, there are some things you can try to enhance your mid-bass. One of them is to run your subwoofer in the all ports open 20Hz mode, if you are currently running it in the one port Extended mode. That will increase the mid-bass slightly relative to the low-bass. You should rerun Audyssey if you change the port tune, and don't forget to change to Standard mode in the sub's DSP.

Second, you can go into the subwoofer's digital menu and set some pre-programmed PEQ to add a 2+db boost centered on 63Hz. That frequency is sort of the sweet spot for mid-bass. Third, you can implement cascading crossovers, which are explained in detail in a section of the Guide that I am giving you a direct link to below. That will take you about 5 minutes to implement, and it will also concentrate more SPL in the mid-bass range. Doing all three of those things will give you relatively much more mid-bass. Perhaps too much, but you can be the judge of that. If you have down-loaded the Audyssey app, you may be able to add even more mid-bass if you want to.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...nces.html#IIIC

One of the advantages of the subwoofer you have now is it's versatility. It is a low-frequency specialist. But, if you know what you are doing, you can also enhance it's mid-bass capabilities. If it turns out that you are experiencing some cancellation in the mid-bass range, which Dave's measurements can determine, there will be several things you can try, including moving the subwoofer slightly or adjusting it's distance or its phase setting. But, you won't know about that until you measure the sub's performance in the room.

If, after everything, it's really still not giving you as much mid-bass as you want relative to the low-bass, then I would buy a subwoofer which emphasizes the mid-bass more, relative to the low-bass. The PSA V3611 should be perfect for you, in that case, or perhaps the JTR Cap 118HT. Both subwoofers would give you relatively more mid-bass than the PB4000, and they would be much better subwoofers than the HSU you were considering. But, I would try the other suggestions first. You have already got the subwoofer in your room. You may as well find out what it can do, and learn a little bit more about what frequencies you really like the most, in the process.

Regards,
Mike
Definitely willing to put the work in on the sub, if it isn't evident by how long this thread is. I have positioned, re-positioned, and ran Audyssey at least 20 times. To say the least, my wife hasn't been happy with me the last couple of weeks.

I will check out all of your suggestions this week and see if any help. In all honesty, I'm not sure if this sub is going to do it for me. I might just upgrade to the PB-16 or the PSA V3611 ... I wish Tom had this sub in piano black...I would be all over it then.

Quote:
Originally Posted by torii View Post
I think back to all the times I bought a speaker/sub...1st thing I did was hook em up and crank em to see if they worked...for subs 0mv and adjusting gain knob on sub amp to see if it could go max gain(most cant) and what level it sounded best at...cant believe op still dicking around with it
No offense, but you have no idea what I have or haven't done ("dicked around") with the sub. I have done far more than what I have posted on here. I am doing my due-diligence to the fullest.

Quote:
Originally Posted by golden78 View Post
@pfar54 : Any luck ? did you move sub around at all to see if it improved? or is it going back to svs
Not sure if it is going back to SVS. At this moment, I am thinking yes, however I want to weigh my options. I might just upgrade to the PB-16 or the PSA V3611 ... I wish Tom had this sub in piano black...I would be all over it then.

I did move the sub earlier today (very hectic weekend) to the corner. It helped slightly, but still nowhere near where I thought it would be. Before I finalize my decision I will try the suggestions that mthomas provided earlier. If those don't work then it will be going back.
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post #202 of 268 Old 12-10-2018, 05:47 PM
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Well that sucks it shouldn't be be that much work to get it to sound good. Maybe you can still get @David Charles to come over and help. Or maybe you will need to go with dual subs instead good luck .
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post #203 of 268 Old 12-10-2018, 06:36 PM
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I will check out all of your suggestions this week and see if any help. In all honesty, I'm not sure if this sub is going to do it for me. I might just upgrade to the PB-16 or the PSA V3611 ... I wish Tom had this sub in piano black...I would be all over it then.
We have no plans to offer any gloss options on any products. jtr does custom finish work though as does DSS and Funk iirc--check with them.

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post #204 of 268 Old 12-10-2018, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
I might just upgrade to the PB-16 or the PSA V3611 ...
I would not even bother with a PB-16 to be honest. If this sub is not cutting it for you, then step up to a JTR 2400 either small cab or big cab or PSA 3611. The PSA will be very strong up top the JTR will be strong down low and close up top. However they are more expensive than the 3611. Custom finish from JTR are beautiful but figure in an up charge of about $500 and an extended wait time. For sheer output down to 10hz look at the JTRs for sure. I would also recommend the Rythmik FV18 paper cone but won't be available till Jan. The black oak finish on them is really nice and good looking for no extra charge.

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post #205 of 268 Old 12-10-2018, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
Definitely willing to put the work in on the sub, if it isn't evident by how long this thread is. I have positioned, re-positioned, and ran Audyssey at least 20 times. To say the least, my wife hasn't been happy with me the last couple of weeks.

I will check out all of your suggestions this week and see if any help. In all honesty, I'm not sure if this sub is going to do it for me. I might just upgrade to the PB-16 or the PSA V3611 ... I wish Tom had this sub in piano black...I would be all over it then.



No offense, but you have no idea what I have or haven't done ("dicked around") with the sub. I have done far more than what I have posted on here. I am doing my due-diligence to the fullest.



Not sure if it is going back to SVS. At this moment, I am thinking yes, however I want to weigh my options. I might just upgrade to the PB-16 or the PSA V3611 ... I wish Tom had this sub in piano black...I would be all over it then.

I did move the sub earlier today (very hectic weekend) to the corner. It helped slightly, but still nowhere near where I thought it would be. Before I finalize my decision I will try the suggestions that mthomas provided earlier. If those don't work then it will be going back.

did you try toggling to the neg polarity setting ?
bumping the eq on the sub up in the mid bass areas ?
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post #206 of 268 Old 12-10-2018, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
Definitely willing to put the work in on the sub, if it isn't evident by how long this thread is. I have positioned, re-positioned, and ran Audyssey at least 20 times. To say the least, my wife hasn't been happy with me the last couple of weeks.

I will check out all of your suggestions this week and see if any help. In all honesty, I'm not sure if this sub is going to do it for me. I might just upgrade to the PB-16 or the PSA V3611 ... I wish Tom had this sub in piano black...I would be all over it then.

Not sure if it is going back to SVS. At this moment, I am thinking yes, however I want to weigh my options. I might just upgrade to the PB-16 or the PSA V3611 ... I wish Tom had this sub in piano black...I would be all over it then.

I did move the sub earlier today (very hectic weekend) to the corner. It helped slightly, but still nowhere near where I thought it would be. Before I finalize my decision I will try the suggestions that mthomas provided earlier. If those don't work then it will be going back.

Hi,

I hope that some of those suggestions help! If they don't, then I think that it is likely that you are experiencing some mid-bass cancellation. I was hoping that you and Dave would be able to make arrangements for him to come measure your frequency response. But, if the PB4000 doesn't cut it for you, then the PB16 won't either. The PB16 is even more of a low-bass specialist then the PB4000 is. It has about 3db more SPL from about 35Hz down, but roughly equivalent mid-bass. From what you have been saying, you have been getting enough low-bass already. It is more mid-bass you are after.

If you put a different subwoofer in the same room, you may experience the same problems, if cancellation in the mid-bass region is the culprit. That's why I think it would be smart to rule that out via measurement. If it's not a question of cancellation, but simply a question of wanting more mid-bass SPL, there are two specific subwoofers that I would look at, if I were you. I mentioned them before. Both the PSA V3611 and the JTR Cap 118HT are ported subwoofers with proportionally more mid-bass SPL than the PB4000 has. The big SVS subwoofers deliberately concentrate more SPL in the low-bass.

If you are serious about wanting piano black, the JTR Cap 118HT can be special-ordered that way. I would not consider the Cap 2400 if I were you. It would have proportionately even more low-bass than the PB4000. If the problem is not mid-bass cancellation, but instead, just your desire for relatively more mid-bass, compared to the low-bass, then you need a subwoofer with a higher port tune, and/or more overall SPL distributed across the mid-bass range.

The V3611 would be very good for that purpose, and so would the Cap 118HT. If you wanted him to, Jeff P. of JTR, could also give your Cap 118 a 20Hz port tune, rather than the current 18Hz. That would give you even more mid-bass, relative to the low-bass. Rule-out the possibility of mid-bass cancellation first, and then it's strictly a YMMV question as to where you want to concentrate more SPL.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #207 of 268 Old 12-10-2018, 07:33 PM
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setting the xover for the sub higher to maybe 150hz in the avr might result in a difference...many subs roll off at 80hz or so and getting great bass above that requires good front speakers


so why expect a suB woofer to do midbass?


Midbass or midrange is generally defined to be within about 80-500Hz.

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post #208 of 268 Old 12-10-2018, 07:35 PM
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agree with mt, plus...
the bass on these svs are SO DARN CLEAN, it takes you a while to really understand what you are hearing at times.
i know ive never personally heard bass like this.
all those years of hearing the loud, distorted, pounding, most folks called bass, makes you think thats what its supposed to sound like.
ill take clean, tight, articulate, undistorted bass , over a huge mess of pounding, flapping, bloated,port chuffing, chaos anyday.
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post #209 of 268 Old 12-10-2018, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

I hope that some of those suggestions help! If they don't, then I think that it is likely that you are experiencing some mid-bass cancellation. I was hoping that you and Dave would be able to make arrangements for him to come measure your frequency response. But, if the PB4000 doesn't cut it for you, then the PB16 won't either. The PB16 is even more of a low-bass specialist then the PB4000 is. It has about 3db more SPL from about 35Hz down, but roughly equivalent mid-bass. From what you have been saying, you have been getting enough low-bass already. It is more mid-bass you are after.

If you put a different subwoofer in the same room, you may experience the same problems, if cancellation in the mid-bass region is the culprit. That's why I think it would be smart to rule that out via measurement. If it's not a question of cancellation, but simply a question of wanting more mid-bass SPL, there are two specific subwoofers that I would look at, if I were you. I mentioned them before. Both the PSA V3611 and the JTR Cap 118HT are ported subwoofers with proportionally more mid-bass SPL than the PB4000 has. The big SVS subwoofers deliberately concentrate more SPL in the low-bass.

If you are serious about wanting piano black, the JTR Cap 118HT can be special-ordered that way. I would not consider the Cap 2400 if I were you. It would have proportionately even more low-bass than the PB4000. If the problem is not mid-bass cancellation, but instead, just your desire for relatively more mid-bass, compared to the low-bass, then you need a subwoofer with a higher port tune, and/or more overall SPL distributed across the mid-bass range.

The V3611 would be very good for that purpose, and so would the Cap 118HT. If you wanted him to, Jeff P. of JTR, could also give your Cap 118 a 20Hz port tune, rather than the current 18Hz. That would give you even more mid-bass, relative to the low-bass. Rule-out the possibility of mid-bass cancellation first, and then it's strictly a YMMV question as to where you want to concentrate more SPL.

Regards,
Mike
That is a good point Mike, hadn't picked out the fact that the OP is not after low bass? Is that right though? I don't think we still know much about the cause of what he is hearing, this is where REW would have been very helpful

Subwoofers: Dual Rythmik FV18s Rev2 with Paper cone, BOSS Platform mini riser
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Video: Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 6500 UB; Room: 2100 cuft sealed on suspended floor
Receiver & Players: Denon X4400H, Oppo UDP-203, Roku Ultra. Apple TV, Minidsp 2X4 HD
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post #210 of 268 Old 12-10-2018, 07:41 PM
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That is a good point Mike, hadn't picked out the fact that the OP is not after low bass? Is that right though? I don't think we still know much about the cause of what he is hearing, this is where REW would have been very helpful
yeah, i would actually give money, to go to his place, just to see what he is calling " not enough mid bass"

have you tried it in all 3 port settings ?
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