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post #241 of 274 Old 01-16-2019, 10:08 AM
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In the new house you mentioned carpet, but do you know if the subfloor is concrete or wood? This can make a big difference
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post #242 of 274 Old 01-16-2019, 10:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ack_bk View Post
In the new house you mentioned carpet, but do you know if the subfloor is concrete or wood? This can make a big difference
I'm not sure. I will have to open up a vent and see what surrounds it. There is a crawl space under it, so maybe that will help me identify it.

I'm guessing concrete is better?

Currently, 5.1 setup
AVR - Denon AVR-X4400H
Sub - SVS PB-4000
Mains - Klipsch RP-600M
Surrounds - Klipsch satellite speakers
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post #243 of 274 Old 01-16-2019, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
I'm not sure. I will have to open up a vent and see what surrounds it. There is a crawl space under it, so maybe that will help me identify it.

I'm guessing concrete is better?
Concrete is the enemy of bass and TR. Suspended floor or a riser on concrete is best to feel the bass

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post #244 of 274 Old 01-16-2019, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
I'm not sure. I will have to open up a vent and see what surrounds it. There is a crawl space under it, so maybe that will help me identify it.

I'm guessing concrete is better?
Concrete has some advantages. Sometimes, people can obtain more boundary reinforcement and a slightly more even sound quality with a concrete floor. But, the advantage of a wood floor over a crawl space, whether there is tile or carpet or whatever on top of the wood, is that the suspended floor will resonate with low-bass frequencies. Concrete on top of soil won't do that to nearly the extent that a suspended floor will. That resonance (vibration) increases the low-bass tactile response which we feel as rumbling or thudding sensations. At very low-frequencies, it can be hard to distinguish the low-bass sounds and the tactile sensations which accompany them.

In the large room you have described, I am fairly certain that you will want to add a second subwoofer. If you plan to keep the PB4000, I would get another one. Matching subwoofers are much easier to integrate than mismatched ones. Since you made it clear in your last post that it is the mid-bass frequencies that you want more of, I would plan to start with the 20Hz, all ports open, port tune. You can also use the preset Music mode, from the sub's internal DSP, which will add about 3db of boost, centered on 63Hz. That is right where most people want more oomph for chest punch sensations.

Finally, if I were you, I would investigate the use of cascading crossovers, described in detail in a section I am linking for you. Using that technique will free-up more headroom, and concentrate more bass in the critical 50hz to 80Hz range which is where most people want more mid-bass. I believe that you will want dual subwoofers in the larger space, no matter what. But as long as your subwoofers are not extremely far away from your listening position, dual PB4000's should give you plenty of mid-bass headroom, and the suspended wood floor should help you with the very low-frequencies, as described above.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...nces.html#IIIC

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #245 of 274 Old 01-16-2019, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post

Finally, if I were you, I would investigate the use of cascading crossovers, described in detail in a section I am linking for you. Using that technique will free-up more headroom, and concentrate more bass in the critical 50hz to 80Hz range which is where most people want more mid-bass.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...nces.html#IIIC

Regards,
Mike

I had been read about this before and meant to try it for fun but kept forgetting about it.

I thought I would try it now before I forgot about it again. It turns out that I've already running cascading crossovers for at least 2 months now by accident. I didnt know my LPF on the sub was turned on and set to 90 hz while I kept my AVR's xover at 80.

I just flipped the switch to bypass on the sub and definitely can tell a difference. Not sure which one I prefer but in a cascading setup I thoroughly enjoyed the sound.
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post #246 of 274 Old 01-16-2019, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
I'm not sure. I will have to open up a vent and see what surrounds it. There is a crawl space under it, so maybe that will help me identify it.

I'm guessing concrete is better?
If there is a crawl space under the house then you're on wood.

One potential advantage to the larger room is there will be less room affect on the sub. Less likely to have nulls and peaks.

Even with that size room you can still have a good experience with just the one sub (for now) above 20hz.

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post #247 of 274 Old 01-16-2019, 08:29 PM
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your not used to good clean bass.
most other subs like klisph, have twice or more distortion than svs.
some perceive that as the norm.
keep at it, rew should show you the light
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post #248 of 274 Old 01-18-2019, 09:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone. I will update soon.

Currently, 5.1 setup
AVR - Denon AVR-X4400H
Sub - SVS PB-4000
Mains - Klipsch RP-600M
Surrounds - Klipsch satellite speakers
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post #249 of 274 Old 01-19-2019, 03:07 AM
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PB-4000 Am I doing something wrong?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
Thanks everyone. I will update soon.


Good to see you back, hope you don’t have any issues in your new home and enjoy your SVS PB-4000.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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post #250 of 274 Old 01-19-2019, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
Thanks everyone. I will update soon.
I have a suggestion for you to look into. It seems as though you are after a lot of mid bass slam and punch. Most deep bass focused subwoofers out there are just that....deep bass focused. They use high excursion, low efficiency drivers to produce very high levels of low bass. There is always a trade off, which is going to be less optimal mid and upper bass performance. Manufacturers strike different balances with their designs, some strive for equivalent low bass and mid/upper bass, some tilt towards the lower stuff, some tilt towards the upper bass. But the fact is, almost any sub designed to produce very strong output below 20 Hz is not going to be completely optimal for mid and upper bass, compared to the other extreme end of the spectrum which would be a very light weight, pro audio style driver.

I have experienced this first hand. I've had dual subs(high excursion low frequency drivers) that, on paper, had more mid and upper bass SPL capability than I could use. Removing one of the low frequency drivers and replacing it with an inexpensive, high sensitivity pro audio driver made a DRASTIC difference in mid and upper bass slam. HUGE difference. With music, the difference was incredible.

So here is the suggestion:https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...gn-thread.html
A pair of these, added to your PB4000, will increase your low bass output capability almost as much as adding another PB4000, while quadrupling your mid and upper bass impact and output capability. Lots of guys running 2,4, even 8 18" subs who add a couple of these for a DRAMATIC improvement in mid bass slam.

I would take a hard look at this extremely inexpensive option, and if you aren't 100% thrilled with the low end, add another PB4000 someday. But I almost guarantee you will be blown away by the results two of these would get you for maybe $600 total.
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post #251 of 274 Old 01-22-2019, 04:55 AM
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This thread, I am sure, is watched by so many people who have similar bass issues while many go gaga with bass they are getting from the same sub. I have PB2000 and had same issues compared with Polk DSW 660. I tried some basic stuff, not as detailed as what is mentioned in the 9 pages here, and figured out that my new monoprice $20 cable was hogging some bass. The cheap cable that was connected to my old sub was much better. Though I still need to go through all the pages of this post again to get best out of my sub, i would recommend (if you have not done so) try changing Sub cable and if possible get another Audy mic from denon. Hope that helps.

Just my 0.2 cents...
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post #252 of 274 Old 01-22-2019, 12:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bear123 View Post
I have a suggestion for you to look into. It seems as though you are after a lot of mid bass slam and punch. Most deep bass focused subwoofers out there are just that....deep bass focused. They use high excursion, low efficiency drivers to produce very high levels of low bass. There is always a trade off, which is going to be less optimal mid and upper bass performance. Manufacturers strike different balances with their designs, some strive for equivalent low bass and mid/upper bass, some tilt towards the lower stuff, some tilt towards the upper bass. But the fact is, almost any sub designed to produce very strong output below 20 Hz is not going to be completely optimal for mid and upper bass, compared to the other extreme end of the spectrum which would be a very light weight, pro audio style driver.

I have experienced this first hand. I've had dual subs(high excursion low frequency drivers) that, on paper, had more mid and upper bass SPL capability than I could use. Removing one of the low frequency drivers and replacing it with an inexpensive, high sensitivity pro audio driver made a DRASTIC difference in mid and upper bass slam. HUGE difference. With music, the difference was incredible.

So here is the suggestion:https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...gn-thread.html
A pair of these, added to your PB4000, will increase your low bass output capability almost as much as adding another PB4000, while quadrupling your mid and upper bass impact and output capability. Lots of guys running 2,4, even 8 18" subs who add a couple of these for a DRAMATIC improvement in mid bass slam.

I would take a hard look at this extremely inexpensive option, and if you aren't 100% thrilled with the low end, add another PB4000 someday. But I almost guarantee you will be blown away by the results two of these would get you for maybe $600 total.
Thanks for the suggestion. I have always wanted to do a DIY sub build. After looking at this, I'm not sure if I could build the cabinet part myself though. Then how would insullation and all of that be handled. After opening the PB-4000 for the amp replacement, it was put together very nicely. Not sure if I missed it, but how would the speaker connection work? Was there a plate with controls on the back.

Also, how could I build two of these and use both with the PB-4000 if I only have two sub connections on my receiver. Are there ways around this?

Not sure if I should do this....I still have my Klipsch sub. Should I use the PB-4000 and Klipsch together for now, until I either build this or get another sub?

Quote:
Originally Posted by argentum246 View Post
This thread, I am sure, is watched by so many people who have similar bass issues while many go gaga with bass they are getting from the same sub. I have PB2000 and had same issues compared with Polk DSW 660. I tried some basic stuff, not as detailed as what is mentioned in the 9 pages here, and figured out that my new monoprice $20 cable was hogging some bass. The cheap cable that was connected to my old sub was much better. Though I still need to go through all the pages of this post again to get best out of my sub, i would recommend (if you have not done so) try changing Sub cable and if possible get another Audy mic from denon. Hope that helps.

Just my 0.2 cents...
I previously had a mid-level sub cable. I then bought the SVS cable to see if this was an issue. It sounded the same to me.


Thanks for the on-going suggestions everyone.

Currently, 5.1 setup
AVR - Denon AVR-X4400H
Sub - SVS PB-4000
Mains - Klipsch RP-600M
Surrounds - Klipsch satellite speakers
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post #253 of 274 Old 01-22-2019, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
Thanks for the on-going suggestions everyone.
Hi pfar54,

If you have the time is there any chance you can take a video of the sub in action and post it? Remove the grill and also show the driver movement.

I'm not sure if it will actually help the troubleshooting process but I am personally dying to see if the driver is moving around or not.
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post #254 of 274 Old 01-22-2019, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
Thanks for the suggestion. I have always wanted to do a DIY sub build. After looking at this, I'm not sure if I could build the cabinet part myself though. Then how would insullation and all of that be handled. After opening the PB-4000 for the amp replacement, it was put together very nicely. Not sure if I missed it, but how would the speaker connection work? Was there a plate with controls on the back.

Also, how could I build two of these and use both with the PB-4000 if I only have two sub connections on my receiver. Are there ways around this?

Not sure if I should do this....I still have my Klipsch sub. Should I use the PB-4000 and Klipsch together for now, until I either build this or get another sub?



I previously had a mid-level sub cable. I then bought the SVS cable to see if this was an issue. It sounded the same to me.


Thanks for the on-going suggestions everyone.
When you replaced the plate amp, didn’t you have to disconnect the speaker wiring from the driver to the amp (and reconnect hopefully)?
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post #255 of 274 Old 01-22-2019, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by imureh View Post
Concrete is the enemy of bass and TR. Suspended floor or a riser on concrete is best to feel the bass

With a concrete floor, another way to feel the bass. Is to add some Tactile Transducer;
Shakers - Simple/Cheap Hookup - Visual Guide

Work well for me, and have the advantage to be adjusted to taste


Ray
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post #256 of 274 Old 01-22-2019, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
Thanks for the suggestion. I have always wanted to do a DIY sub build. After looking at this, I'm not sure if I could build the cabinet part myself though. Then how would insullation and all of that be handled. After opening the PB-4000 for the amp replacement, it was put together very nicely. Not sure if I missed it, but how would the speaker connection work? Was there a plate with controls on the back.

Also, how could I build two of these and use both with the PB-4000 if I only have two sub connections on my receiver. Are there ways around this?

Not sure if I should do this....I still have my Klipsch sub. Should I use the PB-4000 and Klipsch together for now, until I either build this or get another sub?



I previously had a mid-level sub cable. I then bought the SVS cable to see if this was an issue. It sounded the same to me.


Thanks for the on-going suggestions everyone.
Of course it would

While it always been a big can or worm, in certain debates.
As long a speaker wire is made of a descent quality, and sufficient gauge. It will not change the sound.
And the same is true for cables.

If you want fancy wires or cables, as I do. This is a good thread to read;
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/89-sp...nd-cables.html
And nothing wrong to overkill sometime, some of my speaker could use 14 AWG and other require 12 AWG due to a much longer distance.
The reason I got 12 AWG for all speakers, since the difference in price is very small. When buying by the reel, but do understand it will not change my sound.


Ray

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post #257 of 274 Old 01-22-2019, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by nodoubt View Post
your not used to good clean bass.
most other subs like klisph, have twice or more distortion than svs.
some perceive that as the norm.
keep at it, rew should show you the light
^^^This!

My PB12 Plus is the first sub of this caliber that I've owned. All I ever had before that was HTIB systems.

My first impressions were mixed. But, I always kept in mind being told about the differences between what I was accustomed to hearing vs. subs with "clean" bass.

Once I spent a little time with it, and some (lots) of tweaking on my new system, it became very obvious what I had. Clean, powerful bass!

...now I want more.

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Living Room - Denon AVR-X2400H/MiniDSP 2X4HD/Hsu Research HB-1 Bookshelf (4) w/HC-1 Center/SVS PB12 Plus (1)/Samsung UN65H7150/Sony UBP-X800/PC Built by D-Rail/XBox One S/Rythmik T-Shirt (1)
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post #258 of 274 Old 01-22-2019, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bear123 View Post
I have a suggestion for you to look into. It seems as though you are after a lot of mid bass slam and punch. Most deep bass focused subwoofers out there are just that....deep bass focused. They use high excursion, low efficiency drivers to produce very high levels of low bass. There is always a trade off, which is going to be less optimal mid and upper bass performance. Manufacturers strike different balances with their designs, some strive for equivalent low bass and mid/upper bass, some tilt towards the lower stuff, some tilt towards the upper bass. But the fact is, almost any sub designed to produce very strong output below 20 Hz is not going to be completely optimal for mid and upper bass, compared to the other extreme end of the spectrum which would be a very light weight, pro audio style driver.

I have experienced this first hand. I've had dual subs(high excursion low frequency drivers) that, on paper, had more mid and upper bass SPL capability than I could use. Removing one of the low frequency drivers and replacing it with an inexpensive, high sensitivity pro audio driver made a DRASTIC difference in mid and upper bass slam. HUGE difference. With music, the difference was incredible.

So here is the suggestion:https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...gn-thread.html
A pair of these, added to your PB4000, will increase your low bass output capability almost as much as adding another PB4000, while quadrupling your mid and upper bass impact and output capability. Lots of guys running 2,4, even 8 18" subs who add a couple of these for a DRAMATIC improvement in mid bass slam.

I would take a hard look at this extremely inexpensive option, and if you aren't 100% thrilled with the low end, add another PB4000 someday. But I almost guarantee you will be blown away by the results two of these would get you for maybe $600 total.
I knew what you were going to suggest before I even made it to the link. Lol

These are definitely on my to do list following my LCR/sub builds...hopefully in the not-so-distant future. Unfortunately it had to be put on hold for a bit, but I'm trying like hell to make it happen.

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Living Room - Denon AVR-X2400H/MiniDSP 2X4HD/Hsu Research HB-1 Bookshelf (4) w/HC-1 Center/SVS PB12 Plus (1)/Samsung UN65H7150/Sony UBP-X800/PC Built by D-Rail/XBox One S/Rythmik T-Shirt (1)
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post #259 of 274 Old 01-22-2019, 07:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B3ntwooki3 View Post
Hi pfar54,

If you have the time is there any chance you can take a video of the sub in action and post it? Remove the grill and also show the driver movement.

I'm not sure if it will actually help the troubleshooting process but I am personally dying to see if the driver is moving around or not.
The driver is moving. I can post something after the move. Too busy and cluttered in my house now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DennisPagoulatos View Post
When you replaced the plate amp, didn’t you have to disconnect the speaker wiring from the driver to the amp (and reconnect hopefully)?
Yes, there were two plugs that I had to remove. They were a pain because of the adhesive. They were hooked back up correctly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post
Of course it would

While it always been a big can or worm, in certain debates.
As long a speaker wire is made of a descent quality, and sufficient gauge. It will not change the sound.
And the same is true for cables.

If you want fancy wires or cables, as I do. This is a good thread to read;
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/89-sp...nd-cables.html
And nothing wrong to overkill sometime, some of my speaker could use 14 AWG and other require 12 AWG due to a much longer distance.
The reason I got 12 AWG for all speakers, since the difference in price is very small. When buying by the reel, but do understand it will not change my sound.


Ray
Thanks Ray. I knew it wouldn't be much of a difference or any at all. I just felt the cable itself was of better quality - that is the outer part of it. I'm glad you brought up the 12 gauge for longer distances. I was wondering if this would be the case for my speakers. The area of my new room will be much greater and the speakers will be further away then they are currently. Currently, I am using 14 gauge wire. Anyways, different topic for a different day.

Currently, 5.1 setup
AVR - Denon AVR-X4400H
Sub - SVS PB-4000
Mains - Klipsch RP-600M
Surrounds - Klipsch satellite speakers
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post #260 of 274 Old 01-23-2019, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
No, never even heard of a sub crawl. There is only so much room in my living room for placement. The sub is placed to the left of my tv stand, on the inside of the left speaker..







Sub trim level? Is this in the crossover section?



The volume on the PB-4000 is showing in dbs. It is a 0 db right now, which is the highest volume on the sub.


So you’re going to want to do the subwoofer crawl. Here’s a solid link. https://lifehacker.com/use-the-subwo...er-set-5751818
As far as trim goes, you’ll find that in your speaker settings under levels. I would highly suggest buying a mini dsp umik-1 and downloading rew. You have an amazing sub and a high quality receiver. I’d hate to see you not get the most out of them



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post #261 of 274 Old 01-23-2019, 08:22 AM
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I don't know if this is helpful, but I just got a PB12-Plus and when I first plugged it in to my system I wasn't getting any output. I had no idea what the problem was. Then... I doubled checked what my receiver was saying the current configuration was and it was something unrecognizable. I literally had no idea what state it was in. I checked crossovers and the fronts were grayed out and the center/surrounds were set at 40hz. Strange because all I did was plug in my new sub. I was already in a dual system, but I didn't re-run Audyssey, I just switched the subs. Once I saw that I went to "restore" my Audyssey settings and then everything came to life. Maybe I accidently hit something on the remote, but I don't think so. I love the sound I'm getting now, but at first I had to set the volume at 0db to get anything decent. After restoring my Audyssey settings I was able to back it off -8db. I have a Denon x4300h.

Sony XBR75X940D | SVS PB12-Plus | HSU VTF-15H | Denon X4300H | Apple TV 4K | RC80i Ceiling Speakers x 5 (victim of HGTV)
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post #262 of 274 Old 01-23-2019, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post

Thanks Ray. I knew it wouldn't be much of a difference or any at all. I just felt the cable itself was of better quality - that is the outer part of it. I'm glad you brought up the 12 gauge for longer distances. I was wondering if this would be the case for my speakers. The area of my new room will be much greater and the speakers will be further away then they are currently. Currently, I am using 14 gauge wire. Anyways, different topic for a different day.
Nothing wrong buying a nicer cable, for a piece of mind
While it is a different topic, I thought to send you this link explaining the whole concept;
https://www.audioholics.com/audio-vi...er-cable-gauge
And there is a chart about distance and the different resistance, that vary between speakers.
Around the middle of this nice and short article.


Ray

Last edited by darthray; 01-23-2019 at 03:23 PM.
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post #263 of 274 Old 01-24-2019, 11:38 AM
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To the @OP: Like some people already said (VERY IMPORTANT), make sure you DONT have DUAL lowpass filters on! This is bad because it creates a cascading effect with your AVR crossover. You NEED to DISABLE the LOW PASS FILTER on your subwoofer's software. Only manage the low pass crossover filter on the AVR, usually 80Hz !!!!

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post #264 of 274 Old 04-10-2019, 08:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey everyone. I am finally getting settled into my new house and getting all of my audio equipment hooked back up. I somewhat remodeled the room all of this equipment is in, so it took a while longer than I hoped.

I hooked up my sub. I still have to recalibrate Audyssey. I have a feeling the much bigger room is going to need more help. I mentioned before having a 12" Klipsch sub. Would it hurt to hook this up in conjunction with my PB-4000? It would be temporary...maybe for a year.

What do you all think?

I will work on tuning this and be posting again in the next week or two.

Currently, 5.1 setup
AVR - Denon AVR-X4400H
Sub - SVS PB-4000
Mains - Klipsch RP-600M
Surrounds - Klipsch satellite speakers
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post #265 of 274 Old 04-10-2019, 09:25 AM
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A 12inch sub will probably make a mess of things compared to or in conjunction to the pb4000. The best way is to place the pb4000 in a good spot, it may very well do a very good job in the bigger room. Placement is key no matter how many subs.
I have not done this myself but some have used a second weaker sub nearfield with success. But still, placement for the main sub is key.



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post #266 of 274 Old 04-11-2019, 08:02 PM
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Any updates in the new room?

When I first heard my PB13-Ultra, I was shocked at the raw power! I would think the 4000 is even stronger. I had a Denon AVR-x4400H that I haven't even taken out of the box yet. I hope that model is not bad for bass output.

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post #267 of 274 Old 04-12-2019, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
Hey everyone. I am finally getting settled into my new house and getting all of my audio equipment hooked back up. I somewhat remodeled the room all of this equipment is in, so it took a while longer than I hoped.

I hooked up my sub. I still have to recalibrate Audyssey. I have a feeling the much bigger room is going to need more help. I mentioned before having a 12" Klipsch sub. Would it hurt to hook this up in conjunction with my PB-4000? It would be temporary...maybe for a year.

What do you all think?

I will work on tuning this and be posting again in the next week or two.
The two subwoofers will have a very different FR and phase response and this will likely create phase cancellation over certain bandwidths. You can certainly try it - experimenting with the phase control might help some but it's not a complete cure/fix.

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post #268 of 274 Old 04-16-2019, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
You need to lower the sub gain and rerun Audy. Then go into the AVR Setup/ Manual Setup/ levels and check to see what the sub is set at. You want to end up around -9db. If not adjust the sub amp level and rerun Audy until the sub level in the AVR is -9 after calibration. Then manually adjust the level up to -3. The issue is Audy tends to set the sub low. Also keep in mind that you can not boost the sub output till after you run Audy because it will attempt to set the sub at standard 75db no matter what you have the sub amp level set at prior to running Audy. That is why there is adjustment levels, so the room correction can make the necessary adjustments to get the sub and speakers calibrated for set target which again is 75db.
+1
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post #269 of 274 Old 09-17-2019, 08:39 AM - Thread Starter
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For a few beers and pizza Ill come help you calibrate and troubleshoot. I can bring my mic and laptop and compare to what you are getting. I have recently helped a few AVS'ers around the greater Cleveland area dial in their subs. I enjoy the challenge with respect to the room


I am a solid hr away but would be willing to help.

PM if this is something you wanna do.



Dave
@David Charles

Are you still up for doing this? After moving, I finally am starting to get some free time. About two months ago I tried calibrating this to the new room it is in and the results weren't what I was expecting at all. I added my Klipsch sub to see if two subs would help and I think it is actually worse. During normal tv watching at around -15 volume, I can barely even hear the sub.

Keep in mind the room is a lot larger than before. It is now 27' x 22.5' x 12.5' (at the peak height).

Currently, 5.1 setup
AVR - Denon AVR-X4400H
Sub - SVS PB-4000
Mains - Klipsch RP-600M
Surrounds - Klipsch satellite speakers
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post #270 of 274 Old 09-17-2019, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by pfar54 View Post
@David Charles

Are you still up for doing this? After moving, I finally am starting to get some free time. About two months ago I tried calibrating this to the new room it is in and the results weren't what I was expecting at all. I added my Klipsch sub to see if two subs would help and I think it is actually worse. During normal tv watching at around -15 volume, I can barely even hear the sub.

Keep in mind the room is a lot larger than before. It is now 27' x 22.5' x 12.5' (at the peak height).
Dave has been MIA for a few months now

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
TV: Panasonic 65" P65ST60 AVR: Denon AVR-X4000 Speakers: PSA MTM-210C (Centre), PSA MTM-210 (Left & Right), PSA MT-110 (Surrounds) Subwoofers: Seaton SubMersives x 3
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