* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 354 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10591 of 10885 Old 04-14-2018, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eamodio View Post
Hi all, I have an old Velodyne ULD-15 and I'm getting interference with the old servo cable I have and am looking to replace it with something with more shielding. The original manual says it can be replaced with any "standard shielded phono cable" but I can't figure out what that actually is. It looks like a 5-pin xlr cable with male connectors on each end, but I can't seem to find any xlr cables that are 5-pin (looks like 5-pin is usual DMX). Another alternative could be a 5-pin DIN midi cable.

Anyone have any idea on what I can use?

Thanks!
I have a brand new ULD 15 cable from the days I had my dearly departed ULD15 that Velodyne sent to me for some reason I can't recall but I never used it.

If you are in the US I can mail it to you; just PM me.

Bach then when they couldn't repair my ULD15 amp they sold me a refurb DD15 for 1/4 msrp. Those days of exemplary service are, sadly, long gone.

Geoff A. J., California
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post #10592 of 10885 Old 04-14-2018, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by dminches View Post
I have a DD15, manufactured in 2005. I am now getting crackling at pretty much any volume level. If I run test tones to it via my AV processor it just crackles. The likely culprit is the amp but I don’t want to spend $260 repairing it if it could likely be a number of other things.

Is the amp the most likely bad part? Is there anyway to narrow this down?

On a side note, how do I remove the amp if I want to ship it out for repair? I took out the 12 Phillips head screws but there are others there (hex or torx)? Can someone tell me which other ones I need to remove and what type they are?

TIA.
Probably to late now but just remove the screws on the edge of the plate amp.

Here's photos when I did it last year; they had to replace numerous capacitors and the entire self EQ board. It only lasted 8 1/2 years, cost $670 to repair.
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post #10593 of 10885 Old 04-15-2018, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Jharvys View Post
You have two issues there. First the Power on command is not "#JU1 $" Try "#PW1 $" for on and "#PW0$" for off.

The other issue is most likely that your sub is not set to "auto on". You have three options... always on, auto on and 12 volt trigger.
Thank you Jharvys the power on command i.e. #JU1 $ is for the older model DD Series. The new DD Plus series have the #PW1 $ command for power on as i discovered from your post.

There is no option to set the unit to always On. There is a factory alteration required to override the Standby for which I have sent the unit to my Distributor. Hope it works.
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post #10594 of 10885 Old 04-21-2018, 08:06 AM
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Mini vee amp repair:worth it?

I’ve got a 6 year old minivee and the amp is starting to go? Major hum etc. I do like the smal” form factor and performance

I’m not a DIY Kind a guy anyone have any thoughts on wether it’s orth shipping this thing to get an amp replacement. I’ve figuring the shipping costs plus amp repair may be close to say a new rsl speedwooofer.

Any opinions appreciated. Thanks
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post #10595 of 10885 Old 04-21-2018, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbuzz View Post
I’ve got a 6 year old minivee and the amp is starting to go? Major hum etc. I do like the smal” form factor and performance

I’m not a DIY Kind a guy anyone have any thoughts on wether it’s orth shipping this thing to get an amp replacement. I’ve figuring the shipping costs plus amp repair may be close to say a new rsl speedwooofer.

Any opinions appreciated. Thanks
The amp went on my DD-15 and I sent it to this place and had it repaired for about $265. All you have to do is send the amp, not the whole sub.

https://www.ebcelectronics.com/
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post #10596 of 10885 Old 04-21-2018, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dminches View Post
The amp went on my DD-15 and I sent it to this place and had it repaired for about $265. All you have to do is send the amp, not the whole sub.

https://www.ebcelectronics.com/
I also had my Velodyne subwoofer repaired at EBC and couldn't be more pleased.

It's refreshing to find a repair facility that is honest and competent.
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post #10597 of 10885 Old 04-22-2018, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by SnellKrell View Post
I also had my Velodyne subwoofer repaired at EBC and couldn't be more pleased.

It's refreshing to find a repair facility that is honest and competent.
snellkrell, dminches,

what are symptoms of amp going ?

mine(DD15s) are great and still going, but just want to know what to look out for incase ever happens

good to know these things are fixable and at relatively affordable cost

"Technology is a drug. We can't get enough of it."


Welcome to my lounge room :)
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post #10598 of 10885 Old 04-28-2018, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Jharvys View Post
It is likely that after you get the unit back together you will still have the issue the blew the fuse in the first place. Fingers crossed maybe not.

The edge screws hold the back plate on the cabinet and the center screws hold the amp circuit boards to the back plate. So if you removed the screws that are not along the edge you have most likely detached a circuit board.
Once all the edge screws are out the back plate can be removed. If it does not let go you will need a pry bar. They may have used glue to hold the back plate down. You can also use a hair dryer or if you are careful a heat gun to soften the glue and pop the back plate off.

Once off you can place the circuit boards back on the back plate and screw them back down. That will walk you back to your starting point. Whether it resolved the starting issue of a blown fuse is another matter.
Late reply, but txs, I managed to open it, discovered that a few compenents are fried, and trandform that into a passive sub, drived by a crown 1502 now
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post #10599 of 10885 Old 05-01-2018, 11:47 AM
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I recently changed my received. In the process I also cleaned up all my media center (dusted, re-organized cables, etc).

I had a Velodyne DEQ-10R subwoofer since 2010, and I've been very pleased with it so far. However, after putting it back in place, hooking it up to the new received I no longer get any sound from it. The display works fine, the cone looks good but otherwise it seems dead. I checked the subwoofer out port on the receiver to make sure that's not broken (connected it to a normal speaker) and did get sound/signal out that way.

So, where do I even start to troubleshoot this? Why would this thing die so unexpectedly simply because it's been moved for dusting. I didn't drop the thing and I didn't handle it roughly either.

Thanks!
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post #10600 of 10885 Old 05-01-2018, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ser_zone View Post
I recently changed my received. In the process I also cleaned up all my media center (dusted, re-organized cables, etc).

I had a Velodyne DEQ-10R subwoofer since 2010, and I've been very pleased with it so far. However, after putting it back in place, hooking it up to the new received I no longer get any sound from it. The display works fine, the cone looks good but otherwise it seems dead. I checked the subwoofer out port on the receiver to make sure that's not broken (connected it to a normal speaker) and did get sound/signal out that way.

So, where do I even start to troubleshoot this? Why would this thing die so unexpectedly simply because it's been moved for dusting. I didn't drop the thing and I didn't handle it roughly either.

Thanks!
Check that you have the Velodyne end of the cable hooked into its LFE Input and not one of its line level output jacks.

It may be your new receiver, in its current settings, is not putting out enough bass volume on that output jack to bring the Velodyne out of Standby. Check this by flipping the switch on the Velodyne to Always On.

Check that the Volume on the Velodyne has not been dropped to 0.
--Bob

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post #10601 of 10885 Old 05-01-2018, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alebonau View Post
snellkrell, dminches,

what are symptoms of amp going ?

mine(DD15s) are great and still going, but just want to know what to look out for incase ever happens

good to know these things are fixable and at relatively affordable cost
Oh, you will know. The sound will be crackling and distorted.
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post #10602 of 10885 Old 05-01-2018, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ser_zone View Post
I recently changed my received. In the process I also cleaned up all my media center (dusted, re-organized cables, etc).

I had a Velodyne DEQ-10R subwoofer since 2010, and I've been very pleased with it so far. However, after putting it back in place, hooking it up to the new received I no longer get any sound from it. The display works fine, the cone looks good but otherwise it seems dead. I checked the subwoofer out port on the receiver to make sure that's not broken (connected it to a normal speaker) and did get sound/signal out that way.

So, where do I even start to troubleshoot this? Why would this thing die so unexpectedly simply because it's been moved for dusting. I didn't drop the thing and I didn't handle it roughly either.

Thanks!
Do you have all your speakers set to "small" with a +/- 80hz crossover and with sub "on" in the AVR menu?

When you run EQ do you get anything out of the sub?

Geoff A. J., California
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post #10603 of 10885 Old 05-01-2018, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by gajCA View Post
Do you have all your speakers set to "small" with a +/- 80hz crossover and with sub "on" in the AVR menu?

When you run EQ do you get anything out of the sub?
Yes. I tried all combinations. Small speakers large speakers. Sub mode: lfe and left+main. I tried the eq through all speakers. They all hiss except for the sub. Any way to test the sub without the receiver? In a more direct straightforward way?
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post #10604 of 10885 Old 05-01-2018, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ser_zone View Post
Yes. I tried all combinations. Small speakers large speakers. Sub mode: lfe and left+main. I tried the eq through all speakers. They all hiss except for the sub. Any way to test the sub without the receiver? In a more direct straightforward way?
I'm not sure if your saw my reply above. Did you double-check the items I listed? Including setting the Velodyne to Always ON? Try toggling that switch in case it got stuck in half-way position when you were dusting/cleaning.

If you haven't already done so, you should check with a replacement cable. There may be a wire break inside the insulation of the cable -- meaning the signal only gets through if the cable is bent in certain ways.

You could also try re-routing speaker wire from a main speaker to the speaker-level Input of the Sub as an alternate signal path test.
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post #10605 of 10885 Old 05-02-2018, 02:50 AM
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Broken DD12+ remote control

Hi all,
I have Velodyne DD12+ and it's been working fine. I have not used the remote control basically at all but now suddenly I would need it I found that it's not working. I changed batteries which didn't help.


Do you have any ideas how to solve this? Is there any button combinations that would reset the remote for instance?




Appreciate your help.


BR,
Niko
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post #10606 of 10885 Old 05-02-2018, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Niko Aurala View Post
Hi all,
I have Velodyne DD12+ and it's been working fine. I have not used the remote control basically at all but now suddenly I would need it I found that it's not working. I changed batteries which didn't help.


Do you have any ideas how to solve this? Is there any button combinations that would reset the remote for instance?




Appreciate your help.


BR,
Niko
The remote is pretty simple — there’s not much you can do to address this. First double check you put the new batteries in the right way around. Then press and release each button a couple times to make sure you don’t have a button which is physically stuck.

If still no joy, you will likely need a replacement.

If you have a programmable remote such as a Harmony from Logitech, the Velodyne may be in their database as a device you can add.
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post #10607 of 10885 Old 05-02-2018, 08:01 AM
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I currently have 2 CHT-15s that are gathering dust and 2 BIC F12s. I know the CHT-15's are very old now, but I was wondering with things like Audessey SubEQ if hooking up the old CHT-15's would serve me better than the BIC F12s until I can afford to replace my subs (which will be soon). My room is 13x23 and I am running a Denon AVR-X6200W with an Emotiva XPA-5 and Aperion Intimus 5t, 6c, and 5b's all round. I bought the F12's because they were cheap and I thought they would be better than the aging CHT-15's but I did not do much research so I am doing that now. I assume the CHT's can get lower than the F12's. Any feedback would be appreciated greatly!
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post #10608 of 10885 Old 05-02-2018, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Justin Phillips View Post
I currently have 2 CHT-15s that are gathering dust and 2 BIC F12s. I know the CHT-15's are very old now, but I was wondering with things like Audessey SubEQ if hooking up the old CHT-15's would serve me better than the BIC F12s until I can afford to replace my subs (which will be soon). My room is 13x23 and I am running a Denon AVR-X6200W with an Emotiva XPA-5 and Aperion Intimus 5t, 6c, and 5b's all round. I bought the F12's because they were cheap and I thought they would be better than the aging CHT-15's but I did not do much research so I am doing that now. I assume the CHT's can get lower than the F12's. Any feedback would be appreciated greatly!
BIC subs are known as boom boxes with inflated specs that lead one to conclude there is inflated performance which there is not.

Your Velodynes are much much better.

If I was replacing my DD15 today it would be with a Rhythmik Servo sub; they have numerous sealed and ported versions.

I prefer sealed, most prefer ported.

Geoff A. J., California
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post #10609 of 10885 Old 05-02-2018, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
I'm not sure if your saw my reply above. Did you double-check the items I listed? Including setting the Velodyne to Always ON? Try toggling that switch in case it got stuck in half-way position when you were dusting/cleaning.

If you haven't already done so, you should check with a replacement cable. There may be a wire break inside the insulation of the cable -- meaning the signal only gets through if the cable is bent in certain ways.

You could also try re-routing speaker wire from a main speaker to the speaker-level Input of the Sub as an alternate signal path test.
--Bob
Hi Bob, thank you for your message.

Yes, I did try all of those. I tried a different cable as well... I also tried the same cable to another speaker and did get sound... I'm trying to think how to get it to crackle or produce some static to see if it's working and the next step would be opening it up I guess.
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post #10610 of 10885 Old 05-02-2018, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by ser_zone View Post
Hi Bob, thank you for your message.

Yes, I did try all of those. I tried a different cable as well... I also tried the same cable to another speaker and did get sound... I'm trying to think how to get it to crackle or produce some static to see if it's working and the next step would be opening it up I guess.
This may be quite obvious and you may have tried it already -
but have you tried the test tones feature that's probably on
you receiver?
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post #10611 of 10885 Old 05-02-2018, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by SnellKrell View Post
This may be quite obvious and you may have tried it already -
but have you tried the test tones feature that's probably on
you receiver?
Yes, tried them when setting up initially (which played some looping notes) and then via the menu, I played the test tone which sends static to each speaker... each works except the sub.
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post #10612 of 10885 Old 05-02-2018, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ser_zone View Post
Yes, tried them when setting up initially (which played some looping notes) and then via the menu, I played the test tone which sends static to each speaker... each works except the sub.
You'll probably get the same results but try these test tones.

Does your receiver have an pre outs other than the sub pre out?

https://www.audiocheck.net/testtones...rsts20-200.php

Do you have a friend that can lend you a sub to eliminate the receiver as the issue?

Geoff A. J., California
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post #10613 of 10885 Old 05-02-2018, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by gajCA View Post
You'll probably get the same results but try these test tones.

Does your receiver have an pre outs other than the sub pre out?

https://www.audiocheck.net/testtones...rsts20-200.php

Do you have a friend that can lend you a sub to eliminate the receiver as the issue?
gajCA: Yes, the receiver has multiple pre outs, it as and extra subwoofer out (it can handle 2 subwoofers) , and pre outs for zone2, center, front, surround, surround back. I did try to connect the sub to the Subwoofer 2 out (and configured the receiver accordingly) with no luck.

I have a friend who can help troubleshoot, but that's in the weekend... i thought i might figure it out before that.
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post #10614 of 10885 Old 05-02-2018, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ser_zone View Post
gajCA: Yes, the receiver has multiple pre outs, it as and extra subwoofer out (it can handle 2 subwoofers) , and pre outs for zone2, center, front, surround, surround back. I did try to connect the sub to the Subwoofer 2 out (and configured the receiver accordingly) with no luck.

I have a friend who can help troubleshoot, but that's in the weekend... i thought i might figure it out before that.
Sounding more like the plate amp...but if your friend can bring over a small sub that will seal the deal if it works fine.

Geoff A. J., California
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Originally Posted by gajCA View Post
Sounding more like the plate amp...but if your friend can bring over a small sub that will seal the deal if it works fine.
So, considering the thing's dead.... when you say "plate amp" is that something fixable? I'm hoping it's something along the lines... "oh yeah, that diode or capacitor's fried, just pop it out and solder another one in, and that'll fix it" , any chance of that?
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post #10616 of 10885 Old 05-02-2018, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ser_zone View Post
So, considering the thing's dead.... when you say "plate amp" is that something fixable? I'm hoping it's something along the lines... "oh yeah, that diode or capacitor's fried, just pop it out and solder another one in, and that'll fix it" , any chance of that?
This time last year my DD15 died so I took out the plate amp, (took lots of pictures before unhooking the wires), and sent it in to the Velodyne repair center in LA.

The initial repair was 2 resistors and 32 capacitors.

Still wouldn't work so I sent it back.

They replaced the entire EQ board as the DD series has EQ.

Has worked fine since; I think it was $650 or so.

Geoff A. J., California
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post #10617 of 10885 Old 05-02-2018, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by gajCA View Post
This time last year my DD15 died so I took out the plate amp, (took lots of pictures before unhooking the wires), and sent it in to the Velodyne repair center in LA.

The initial repair was 2 resistors and 32 capacitors.

Still wouldn't work so I sent it back.

They replaced the entire EQ board as the DD series has EQ.

Has worked fine since; I think it was $650 or so.
Yikes... at that price I'm buying a new one... this thing wasn't that pricey when I first bought it.
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post #10618 of 10885 Old 05-02-2018, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ser_zone View Post
Yikes... at that price I'm buying a new one... this thing wasn't that pricey when I first bought it.
Yeah, if it was closer to $1000 I'd have bought a Rhythmik F12SE.

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/F12SE.html

Geoff A. J., California
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post #10619 of 10885 Old 05-02-2018, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gajCA View Post
This time last year my DD15 died so I took out the plate amp, (took lots of pictures before unhooking the wires), and sent it in to the Velodyne repair center in LA.

The initial repair was 2 resistors and 32 capacitors.

Still wouldn't work so I sent it back.

They replaced the entire EQ board as the DD series has EQ.

Has worked fine since; I think it was $650 or so.
I'm not so surprised by the price, I'm surprised that last year, Velodyne had a repair center!

Last year, I finally found the company's phone number, they now hide it, I sent multiple e-mails
without any response.

Fortunately, I found EBC Electronics in New Jersey - they repaired the Plate Amplifier on my
HGS-12 quickly and at a reasonable price.

Velodyne was once proud company almost owned the subwoofer business. Today, Velodyne is a
mere shadow of what it once was. Ford self-driving cars are now the company's interest -
not subwoofers or its customers.

I constantly recommend other manufacturers to friends and family - and, if anyone mentions
Velodyne, my retort is "Run, do not walk far away!"
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post #10620 of 10885 Old 05-02-2018, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnellKrell View Post
I'm not so surprised by the price, I'm surprised that last year, Velodyne had a repair center!

Last year, I finally found the company's phone number, they now hide it, I sent multiple e-mails
without any response.

Fortunately, I found EBC Electronics in New Jersey - they repaired the Plate Amplifier on my
HGS-12 quickly and at a reasonable price.

Velodyne was once proud company almost owned the subwoofer business. Today, Velodyne is a
mere shadow of what it once was. Ford self-driving cars are now the company's interest -
not subwoofers or its customers.

I constantly recommend other manufacturers to friends and family - and, if anyone mentions
Velodyne, my retort is "Run, do not walk far away!"
I read an article where the owner simply lost the zeal that he once had, enthusiastically, for HiFi/Subs.

I bought one of the very first ULD15s in the late 80s and it lasted 20 years before they couldn't repair the amp any more and offered me a DD15 factory refurb for $1200 instead of $4500.

That was astonishing service.

They have fallen a long long way and I'm actually surprised they still bother to sell subs; surely they aren't actually making them anymore?

The market has passed them by.

Geoff A. J., California
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