* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 355 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10621 of 10887 Old 05-02-2018, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnellKrell View Post
I'm not so surprised by the price, I'm surprised that last year, Velodyne had a repair center!

Last year, I finally found the company's phone number, they now hide it, I sent multiple e-mails
without any response.

Fortunately, I found EBC Electronics in New Jersey - they repaired the Plate Amplifier on my
HGS-12 quickly and at a reasonable price.

Velodyne was once proud company almost owned the subwoofer business. Today, Velodyne is a
mere shadow of what it once was. Ford self-driving cars are now the company's interest -
not subwoofers or its customers.

I constantly recommend other manufacturers to friends and family - and, if anyone mentions
Velodyne, my retort is "Run, do not walk far away!"
Yes, I sent and email, no response. I did look at the EBC repair shop... I'm kindda torn. The repair comes to about $220 with the shipping and so... that's not too far from buying a new sub, different model/brand. I'm not a picky guy with subs, I want a decent one, the DEQ-10R was nice, so something in that range... $3-400.
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post #10622 of 10887 Old 05-02-2018, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ser_zone View Post
Yes, I sent and email, no response. I did look at the EBC repair shop... I'm kindda torn. The repair comes to about $220 with the shipping and so... that's not too far from buying a new sub, different model/brand. I'm not a picky guy with subs, I want a decent one, the DEQ-10R was nice, so something in that range... $3-400.
Something like the RSL Speedwoofer, Or Emotiva BasX. I'd rather buy a new subwoofer than repair an aging Velodyne, unless it was one the top ones, like a DD18 or DD18+.

These seem well regarded for their price. $300-400.

https://rslspeakers.com/products/rsl-speedwoofer-10s/
https://emotiva.com/products/basx-s10
https://emotiva.com/products/basx-s12

My World Beating System!
Spoiler!
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post #10623 of 10887 Old 05-03-2018, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ser_zone View Post
Yes, I sent and email, no response. I did look at the EBC repair shop... I'm kindda torn. The repair comes to about $220 with the shipping and so... that's not too far from buying a new sub, different model/brand. I'm not a picky guy with subs, I want a decent one, the DEQ-10R was nice, so something in that range... $3-400.
Brent Butterworth tested both the RSL speedwoofer and BasX S12; both $399.

He preferred the RSL for music and the Emotiva BasX S12 for movies as there was useable extension down to 22hz despite the -3db point of 27.

That all assumes you are in the US of course.

300watts =17w18h18d= 49 lbs 12" [27hz] $399 EMOTIVA BASX S12, (extension from Sound & Vison)

350watts =15w16h17d= 40 lbs 10" [30hz] $399 RSL SPEEDWOOFER 10S, (extension from Sound & Vision review)

Geoff A. J., California
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post #10624 of 10887 Old 05-06-2018, 05:44 PM
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opened up the sub

So I opened up the sub eventually and I "think" i found the problem. That circuit board is toast! the number on it is E230194 hx-008. No luck google-ing it. The board was inside a silver metal box. Any idea what it is? I don't suppose there's much chance of finding a replacement part...
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post #10625 of 10887 Old 05-07-2018, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ser_zone View Post
So I opened up the sub eventually and I "think" i found the problem. That circuit board is toast! the number on it is E230194 hx-008. No luck google-ing it. The board was inside a silver metal box. Any idea what it is? I don't suppose there's much chance of finding a replacement part...
Here are replacements to consider; the Monolith 10" is a game changer with its 500 watt amp.

PORTED SUBWOOFERS $600 AND BELOW, DELIVERED

NOTE: IF LOOKING AT LARGER/MORE EXPENSIVE SUBWOOFERS ADD PSA TO THE LIST OF BRANDS

ALSO, IF YOU ARE NOT AN ACTION MOVIE FAN A SUBWOOFER WITH 22-30HZ EXTENSION WOULD BE FINE

Specs are from the manufacturer unless noted otherwise.

150watts =11w18h13d= 18 lbs 8" [28hz] $199 EMOTIVA BASX S8

200watts =14w16h16d= 34 lbs 10" [27hz] $299 EMOTIVA BASX S10

300watts =17w18h18d= 49 lbs 12" [27hz] $399 EMOTIVA BASX S12, (extension from Sound & Vison)

350watts =15w16h17d= 40 lbs 10" [30hz] $399 RSL SPEEDWOOFER 10S, (extension from Sound & Vision review)

250watts =15w19h17d= 42 lbs 10" [25hz] $455 HSU VTF 1 MK3 (extension from Audioholics review)

300watts =15w19h20d= 46 lbs 10" [18hz] $499 SVS PB1000, (extension from Sound & Vision Review)

500watts =15w19h20d= 72 lbs 10" [20hz] $500 MONOPRICE MONOLITH THX 10"

300watts =16w22h21d= 69 lbs* 12" [19hz] $549 RHYTHMIK LV12R

350watts =15w21h22d= 62 lbs 12" [18hz] $607 HSU VTF2 MK5, (extension from Audioholics review)

* = shipping weight

Geoff A. J., California
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post #10626 of 10887 Old 05-07-2018, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by gajCA View Post
Here are replacements to consider; the Monolith 10" is a game changer with its 500 watt amp.

PORTED SUBWOOFERS $600 AND BELOW, DELIVERED

NOTE: IF LOOKING AT LARGER/MORE EXPENSIVE SUBWOOFERS ADD PSA TO THE LIST OF BRANDS

ALSO, IF YOU ARE NOT AN ACTION MOVIE FAN A SUBWOOFER WITH 22-30HZ EXTENSION WOULD BE FINE

Specs are from the manufacturer unless noted otherwise.

150watts =11w18h13d= 18 lbs 8" [28hz] $199 EMOTIVA BASX S8

200watts =14w16h16d= 34 lbs 10" [27hz] $299 EMOTIVA BASX S10

300watts =17w18h18d= 49 lbs 12" [27hz] $399 EMOTIVA BASX S12, (extension from Sound & Vison)

350watts =15w16h17d= 40 lbs 10" [30hz] $399 RSL SPEEDWOOFER 10S, (extension from Sound & Vision review)

250watts =15w19h17d= 42 lbs 10" [25hz] $455 HSU VTF 1 MK3 (extension from Audioholics review)

300watts =15w19h20d= 46 lbs 10" [18hz] $499 SVS PB1000, (extension from Sound & Vision Review)

500watts =15w19h20d= 72 lbs 10" [20hz] $500 MONOPRICE MONOLITH THX 10"

300watts =16w22h21d= 69 lbs* 12" [19hz] $549 RHYTHMIK LV12R

350watts =15w21h22d= 62 lbs 12" [18hz] $607 HSU VTF2 MK5, (extension from Audioholics review)

* = shipping weight
@gajCA Thank you for the list. I like the SVS PB1000. I'm hoping Fry's will have a deal on them some time soon.I'm hoping for something under $400, so I'll check the Emotiva and RSL (although the design, with that ugly "speedwoofer" writing on the front really kills the deal for me).
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post #10627 of 10887 Old 05-08-2018, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ser_zone View Post
@gajCA Thank you for the list. I like the SVS PB1000. I'm hoping Fry's will have a deal on them some time soon.I'm hoping for something under $400, so I'll check the Emotiva and RSL (although the design, with that ugly "speedwoofer" writing on the front really kills the deal for me).
The Emotiva is a better sub for movies, the RSL is better for music.

Geoff A. J., California
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post #10628 of 10887 Old 05-15-2018, 02:21 PM
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Sorry if this has been asked, but this thread is enormous.

I have a older DD12 that I use for music in a 2-channel system. I want to add a second sub to have one for each channel. I also have a SMS-1, so I don't necessarily need the full DD system. Is (or was) there a Velodyne model that was the equivalent of the DD12 minus the eq?

John Moschella
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post #10629 of 10887 Old 05-15-2018, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Moschella View Post
Sorry if this has been asked, but this thread is enormous.

I have a older DD12 that I use for music in a 2-channel system. I want to add a second sub to have one for each channel. I also have a SMS-1, so I don't necessarily need the full DD system. Is (or was) there a Velodyne model that was the equivalent of the DD12 minus the eq?


Yes, it’s the HGS-12.

I have two HGS-12’s. I also have a brand new SMS-1 that I don’t use but it would essentially make them a DD-12.

It’s for sale in the classified section.

Receiver : Pioneer Elite SC-LX701
Main & Center Speakers : Phase Technology PC 3.5, & Surrounds
Amplifiers : Emotiva UPA-1 Monoblocks, SVS SB3000 Subwoofer
MonsterPower HTS5100, Harmony Elite Remote
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post #10630 of 10887 Old 05-16-2018, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by todd1010 View Post
Yes, it’s the HGS-12.

I have two HGS-12’s. I also have a brand new SMS-1 that I don’t use but it would essentially make them a DD-12.

It’s for sale in the classified section.
Thanks for the quick reply.

John Moschella
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post #10631 of 10887 Old 05-16-2018, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by todd1010 View Post
Yes, it’s the HGS-12.

I have two HGS-12’s. I also have a brand new SMS-1 that I don’t use but it would essentially make them a DD-12.

It’s for sale in the classified section.
After a little reading the HGS series is close but not exactly the same as the DD series sans EQ. It seems that the servo control is quite different (and better) on the DD series as it uses DSP to control the servo.

John Moschella
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post #10632 of 10887 Old 05-18-2018, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post
There are going to be several files for each subwoofer, it would be significantly easier if you could PM me your email address so I could send them to you.
Any chance of reposting or emailing these to me it would be greatly appreciated!!!!
I'm a newbie here. What is the possibility of finding Schematics here for an old Velodyne F-1500R-B Subwoofer. The serial is 5509549 build date April 5, 1995

Thanks Bill
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post #10633 of 10887 Old 05-19-2018, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by dminches View Post
The amp went on my DD-15 and I sent it to this place and had it repaired for about $265. All you have to do is send the amp, not the whole sub.

https://www.ebcelectronics.com/
Anyone happen to know if someone ever posted any pics or diagrams on how to remove the amp. Im a complete doofus with anything electric or mechanical and would have no idea where to start
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post #10634 of 10887 Old 05-19-2018, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by kbuzz View Post
Anyone happen to know if someone ever posted any pics or diagrams on how to remove the amp. Im a complete doofus with anything electric or mechanical and would have no idea where to start
There are a series of screws around the edge of the amp. Those need to be removed. If the amp doesn’t slip out after you remove the screws you may need to nudge it a bit. The edge screws are the only things that hold the amp to the cabinet.

Second, there are 5-6 cables/connectors attached to the amp. I would recommend taking a picture of each one before you remove it so you know where to reconnect them when you get the amp back.

David M.
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post #10635 of 10887 Old 05-19-2018, 11:48 AM
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Anyone happen to know if someone ever posted any pics or diagrams on how to remove the amp. Im a complete doofus with anything electric or mechanical and would have no idea where to start
Just remove the Philips head screws around the edge of the amp.

Here's photos of when I removed mine last year.

They had to replace capacitors, resistors and the entire self EQ board.
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post #10636 of 10887 Old 05-25-2018, 01:12 AM
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Hello Velodyne support,
I have a DS10 subwoofer that has an issue getting stuck when switched on- it displays "P4" when turned on, and it won't respond to any remote commands or to the front controls. It happened when unplugged and plugged back in. The first time it happened, I connected the MIC and video out to my TV, it displayed the welcome screen, and It responded to the remote, and I was able to calibrate it, after that it worked fine until recently when I had to unplug it to move it to a different outlet, when I plugged it back in, it displayed "P4" again and wouldn't respond to anything. I tried the MIC and video out like before, but this time, it's not outputting any video and is not responding to any remote command, or front controls- it just sits there with the "P4" on the display. I tried unplugging it and waiting for a long time, unplugging and plugging back in, nothing seems to work. Any advice or tip would be appreciated.
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post #10637 of 10887 Old 05-29-2018, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Moschella View Post
After a little reading the HGS series is close but not exactly the same as the DD series sans EQ. It seems that the servo control is quite different (and better) on the DD series as it uses DSP to control the servo.

I thought the SPL-1200 II were similar to the DD12.
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post #10638 of 10887 Old 06-06-2018, 12:35 PM
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Hello ,

I bought a Velodyne SPL 1200- Ultra (European version of optimum12), but the previous owner lost the remote.
I've been looking online for a replacement without success.
Does anybody knows where could I find one?

Is there anyway to use the sub's features (Eq, light and modes) without the remote?
Thanks!

Edit: I found an older model for sale nearby. It doesn't looks like the optimum one, but has the same buttons. Would this work?
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post #10639 of 10887 Old 06-06-2018, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpgfontes View Post
Hello ,

I bought a Velodyne SPL 1200- Ultra (European version of optimum12), but the previous owner lost the remote.
I've been looking online for a replacement without success.
Does anybody knows where could I find one?

Is there anyway to use the sub's features (Eq, light and modes) without the remote?
Thanks!

Edit: I found an older model for sale nearby. It doesn't looks like the optimum one, but has the same buttons. Would this work?
Looks identical to the remote for the SPL1000R that my daughter now has.

It should work.

Without the remote you can only control the volume/gain setting and crossover point setting on the rear of the sub.
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Geoff A. J., California
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post #10640 of 10887 Old 06-06-2018, 03:03 PM
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I have a pair of the DD10plus that I absolutely love. THE ability to alter the slopes (and level) from the remote is fantastic, since I can tune bass to taste (since bass levels often vary from studio to studio when mixing and mastering)

I have mine on a pair of sistrum stands to elevate from the floor, as I've found that to help match my TAD CR1's.

The issue I am having is that one sub is very hard to get the software to recognize the sub is plugged into the USB port. The other sub recognizes the computer just fine . This is to use their software to set up curves, eq, etc.

I contactEd velodyne year and ago they told me to email my serial number for an rma but they didn't respond .

Any tips to get the sub and software talking ? Could it be a grounding issue ?
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post #10641 of 10887 Old 06-07-2018, 02:42 PM
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Why is it so hard to find a replacement for the IR remote online?
I've searched all over the net for a remote of the Optimum line with no luck! Not in ebay, not in Amazon or anywhere else...
Does Velodyne still attend to this thread?
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post #10642 of 10887 Old 06-07-2018, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpgfontes View Post
Why is it so hard to find a replacement for the IR remote online?
I've searched all over the net for a remote of the Optimum line with no luck! Not in ebay, not in Amazon or anywhere else...
Does Velodyne still attend to this thread?
No. The thread used to have a really great guy who followed the thread after Velodyne stopped making subs. But he went into full retirement quite some time ago... a really big loss for the thread, and greatly missed. Velodyne is now only interested in their vehicle collision avoidance business and no longer replies to any subwoofer support questions.
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post #10643 of 10887 Old 06-13-2018, 08:20 AM
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Keen for some fellow advice from users - I know this isn't monitored by Velodyne anymore.

I'm having low level output on one of my DD18 units in a daisy chain set-up.

Scenario:
I have four DD units in my theatre synced up in Master/Slave mode.
From right to left, sub 1 is the master and each sub is then connected via RS232 and becomes a slave. A pair of RCA outputs run to the input of the next sub, and so on.
Each sub receives an identical L&R RCA input, including the master sub, so the input levels are identical.

All volumes are equal, as the master sub controls level, EQ and setting for all 4.
The other day I had to reset one of the subs: sub 3 in the link. It's very tough getting behind the screen and pulling the structure off. But I ran the sweep tone from the Velodyne set-up and found 3 of the 4 subs were producing an equal level of movement and volume but sub 3 was like it was almost off.
It's basically producing no volume. But it is actually working... Just.

I painfully disconnected each sub and reset them one by one, including the setting the same settings and volume just incase a slave sync had gone bad.
No change.
Checked inputs, all good - as my theory is if sub 3 had a lower level input (like a dodgy RCA or something) to the others then it's output level to sub 4 would therefore be less.. And it's not. Sub 4 produces as much volume and excursion as sub 1&2. So the electronics in that regard would appear in tact.

I'm reluctant to rip it out and send off to the repairer as I just had one of my other DD18's repaired last year.
The bill racked up was over $2,200 and NINE MONTHS in the authorised Velodyne repairer shop as they struggled to figure out the problem.
In the end they replaced every electronic part bar the cone itself and charged me nothing due to sheer embarrassment.
But I don't count on being so lucky with another and the wait was ridiculous...

Has anyone experienced this situation whether in a slave and master set-up or in just a single unit where the woofer is producing hardly any sound??

-- 133" AT 2.35:1 Screen -- JVC X500 -- Oppo UDP-205 -- Cambridge 650R -- QSC DCM 10-D -- 2x Emotiva XPA-5 -- Krix Theatrix (L,C,R), Krix Megaphonix surrounds -- 4x Velodyne DD18 --

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post #10644 of 10887 Old 06-18-2018, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galaxyluv View Post
Thank you Jharvys the power on command i.e. #JU1 $ is for the older model DD Series. The new DD Plus series have the #PW1 $ command for power on as i discovered from your post.

There is no option to set the unit to always On. There is a factory alteration required to override the Standby for which I have sent the unit to my Distributor. Hope it works.
Hi, I know that this is an older post but I just got a new DD-12+ and I'm finding that the power on command is #JU1 $. I tried the #PW1 $ and that produced no response from the sub. Are you sure about the command syntax?


I verified this with "realterm" directly connected to the sub so I'm pretty sure about what I'm seeing.


Thanks
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post #10645 of 10887 Old 06-19-2018, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jk246 View Post
No. The thread used to have a really great guy who followed the thread after Velodyne stopped making subs. ........

Haven't seen anything new...but haven't heard that they stopped making subs either?
http://velodyneacoustics.com/

Last edited by rob80b; 06-19-2018 at 01:57 PM.
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post #10646 of 10887 Old 06-19-2018, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by rob80b View Post
Haven't seen anything new...but haven't heard that they stopped making subs either?
http://velodyneacoustics.com/
That's news to me, last time I went on the website about 6-9 months ago there was nothing but LIDAR stuff, on velodyne.com... now they've split velodyne.com into velodynelidar.com and velodyneacoustics.com; but they no longer have a service dept like they used to, just a list of 'authorized service centers'.
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post #10647 of 10887 Old 06-19-2018, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jk246 View Post
That's news to me, last time I went on the website about 6-9 months ago there was nothing but LIDAR stuff, on velodyne.com... now they've split velodyne.com into velodynelidar.com and velodyneacoustics.com; but they no longer have a service dept like they used to, just a list of 'authorized service centers'.

...My bro and I bit our teeth on Velodyne back in the eighties and sort of stuck with them, he's now gone with 4 Seaton Submersives after his DD18 failed ...but hopefully my DD12 will continue to hang in there. Lack of support is not encouraging though....prior to and even after his retirement Curt was a godsend and kept on top of any user concerns.

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post #10648 of 10887 Old 06-19-2018, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by rob80b View Post
...My bro and I bit our teeth on Velodyne back in the eighties and sort of stuck with them, he's now gone with 4 Seaton Submersives after his DD18 failed ...but hopefully my DD12 will continue to hang in there. Lack of support is not encouraging though....prior to and even after his retirement Curt was a godsend and kept on top of any user concerns.
I got my first Velodyne about the same time; when the amp went out, Velodyne exchanged my plate amp for one that had come in a trade-in- cost about $100 including shipping. I bought a second matching sub on ebay that was in great shape for a few hundred. Had one re-coned after a transient, and a few years later had the second re-coned only this time what blew it out was the amp dying. The guy from Velodyne that used watch this thread (was that Curt?) was great and on top of all the customer problems, knew with almost perfect certainty what caused failures from their descriptions, knew what the weak points were in the product line, and had access to schematics, which would have been great for me as I'm and engineer and could have fixed my sub if I'd had that documentation. I guess in this 'throw away and buy another' world we live in now, if people keep fixing their subs, Velodyne figures that they're losing sales, and paying for a tech support dept. to boot; if that's their philosophy, I won't buy their products anymore.
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post #10649 of 10887 Old 06-22-2018, 03:49 AM
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Velodyne Deco 5.1 system

Just musings on this item. I bought this 12 years ago from Velodyne on clearance, then never used it. Big mistake. I never sold it on ebay because it's so heavy, I figured it wouldn't sell with the shipping. Anyway, I've been upgrading my system, and decided to finally break into it to use the satellites for Atmos speakers, with one as a spare. I put them atop my system, and at reasonable levels (below 80 db) the satellites crossed at 120 Hz sound GREAT! I've been listening to multichannel music for the last hour. It would have been great upstairs in my non critical living room, but I never got around to it. Not sure what I will do with the subwoofer, maybe sell it as it has its own box. However, I feel confident these will do great as Atmos speakers.
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Last edited by drh3b; 06-22-2018 at 07:24 AM.
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post #10650 of 10887 Old 06-22-2018, 10:02 AM
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One last attempt at a bypass for the piezo accelerometer on a velodyne hgs-15 sub. Apparently there are no replacements. There is a bypass procedure to eliminate the need for the accelerometer. Surely someone knows how to do this.
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