* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 359 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 88Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #10741 of 10872 Old 03-15-2019, 03:52 PM
Read the FAQ!
 
Bob Pariseau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 35,276
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5832 Post(s)
Liked: 8304
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parrotheads View Post
Have a DLS-5000R which is calibrated. During movies I get a rattling sound that appears to come from the front, piano black plastic. Any thoughts?
If you have anything sitting on top of, or touching the subwoofer, remove that first. The rattle you are hearing may actually be coming from that instead of the front.

If not, test with the front grill removed.
--Bob
SteveC356 likes this.

Need personal consultation/training? Or just curious about my Blog? Check out my web site!
Bob Pariseau is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #10742 of 10872 Old 03-26-2019, 04:39 AM
Member
 
bigdaddy999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 186
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Liked: 11
HGS-12x rattling / bottoming out at high levels?

Hi. I have a pair of these subs and have been very happy with them. I don't generally play movies super-loud, but get surprised now and then with some very heavy LFE. In any case, in those situations one of these subs emits a clattering sound, almost sound like metal on metal. Turning it down a bit stops it. There's no hum or other issue with the sub and it works fine in general.

Is this a symptom of an amp or electronics issue, or is this a physical issue with the speaker itself? To my knowledge, the driver has never been serviced, but I did get both of the plate amps upgraded to the "x" level years ago.

Thanks
bigdaddy999 is offline  
post #10743 of 10872 Old 03-27-2019, 08:21 AM
Read the FAQ!
 
Bob Pariseau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 35,276
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5832 Post(s)
Liked: 8304
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post
Hi. I have a pair of these subs and have been very happy with them. I don't generally play movies super-loud, but get surprised now and then with some very heavy LFE. In any case, in those situations one of these subs emits a clattering sound, almost sound like metal on metal. Turning it down a bit stops it. There's no hum or other issue with the sub and it works fine in general.

Is this a symptom of an amp or electronics issue, or is this a physical issue with the speaker itself? To my knowledge, the driver has never been serviced, but I did get both of the plate amps upgraded to the "x" level years ago.

Thanks
If you are actually bottoming out the sub (playing it too loud so that the cone travel hits the stops) you can damage the sub. But first check what you are hearing is actually coming from the sub. Loud bass at frequencies which resonate with different objects can trigger loud rattles in the room itself. Some of these can even be inside the walls (e.g., HVAC ducts, pipe runs, or even the studs moving). It can be confusing trying to locate what's actually rattling. Audio calibration discs (e.g., "AIX Audio Calibration", Blu-ray) typically include Subwoofer buzz/rattle tests you can use to reliably reproduce the frequencies generating the rattles and locate the source of the rattle. Set low Volume to start, and raise it until you can just start hearing the rattle.

If the rattle really is coming from the sub, be aware that some movies have ridiculous levels of very low frequency bass -- quite likely stuff that was left in there by mistake at frequencies lower than the monitors could reproduce when the audio was mixed. To protect your subs against such stuff, be sure you don't disable the lowest frequency protection for the sub. I.e., you WANT the lowest frequencies to roll off rather sharply so that the Sub isn't trying to reproduce them. This high pass filtering (rolling off the very lowest frequencies) may be in your crossover electronics, but typically Subs include their own, built-in protection down there. With some subs you can alter or disable that protection, and that should only be done with caution. The majority of the normal energy in LFE tracks -- for explosions and such -- is around 50 Hz, which is high enough it won't be attenuated by that sort of protection. The bass you feel more than hear in some tracks is typically in the 20-30 Hz range. If your sub is rated to go down that low, its built-in protection will likely start taking effect in the 15-25 Hz range and lower. (Higher if the sub is not rated to go down that low.)
--Bob

Need personal consultation/training? Or just curious about my Blog? Check out my web site!

Last edited by Bob Pariseau; 03-27-2019 at 08:29 AM.
Bob Pariseau is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #10744 of 10872 Old 03-27-2019, 10:25 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Montecito, CA
Posts: 1,629
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 739 Post(s)
Liked: 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
To protect your subs against such stuff, be sure you don't disable the lowest frequency protection for the sub. I.e., you WANT the lowest frequencies to roll off rather sharply so that the Sub isn't trying to reproduce them. This high pass filtering (rolling off the very lowest frequencies) may be in your crossover electronics, but typically Subs include their own, built-in protection down there. With some subs you can alter or disable that protection, and that should only be done with caution. The majority of the normal energy in LFE tracks -- for explosions and such -- is around 50 Hz, which is high enough it won't be attenuated by that sort of protection. The bass you feel more than hear in some tracks is typically in the 20-30 Hz range. If your sub is rated to go down that low, its built-in protection will likely start taking effect in the 15-25 Hz range and lower. (Higher if the sub is not rated to go down that low.)
Thanks, Bob. In the past I've been tempted to disable sub protection, especially for the big Velodyne HGS-15s, but your reply makes me glad I didn't and assures I won't in the future. I use Velodyne SMS-1 bass managers for my HGS-15 and HGS-10 setups that provide acoustic room correction.
dbphd is offline  
post #10745 of 10872 Old 03-27-2019, 05:04 PM
Member
 
bigdaddy999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 186
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
If you are actually bottoming out the sub (playing it too loud so that the cone travel hits the stops) you can damage the sub. But first check what you are hearing is actually coming from the sub. Loud bass at frequencies which resonate with different objects can trigger loud rattles in the room itself. Some of these can even be inside the walls (e.g., HVAC ducts, pipe runs, or even the studs moving). It can be confusing trying to locate what's actually rattling. Audio calibration discs (e.g., "AIX Audio Calibration", Blu-ray) typically include Subwoofer buzz/rattle tests you can use to reliably reproduce the frequencies generating the rattles and locate the source of the rattle. Set low Volume to start, and raise it until you can just start hearing the rattle.

If the rattle really is coming from the sub, be aware that some movies have ridiculous levels of very low frequency bass -- quite likely stuff that was left in there by mistake at frequencies lower than the monitors could reproduce when the audio was mixed. To protect your subs against such stuff, be sure you don't disable the lowest frequency protection for the sub. I.e., you WANT the lowest frequencies to roll off rather sharply so that the Sub isn't trying to reproduce them. This high pass filtering (rolling off the very lowest frequencies) may be in your crossover electronics, but typically Subs include their own, built-in protection down there. With some subs you can alter or disable that protection, and that should only be done with caution. The majority of the normal energy in LFE tracks -- for explosions and such -- is around 50 Hz, which is high enough it won't be attenuated by that sort of protection. The bass you feel more than hear in some tracks is typically in the 20-30 Hz range. If your sub is rated to go down that low, its built-in protection will likely start taking effect in the 15-25 Hz range and lower. (Higher if the sub is not rated to go down that low.)
--Bob
Thank you. I'm 99% sure it's the sub. I think I've pretty much de-rattled the room, lol. I will look through the processor (Anthem S2 Statement) as well as on the sub to see what options I have for cutting off the bottom end. As I said it's not like I play it all that loud, but then some crazy LFE hits and that's when. Good example: Rocket launch in Interstellar.... I did just change the infrasonic filter on the subs from 20hz to 35. One one sub makes the noise. These were calibrated using Anthems room correction SW, so it is possible they're not set at identical levels given what's in the room.

Last edited by bigdaddy999; 03-27-2019 at 05:10 PM.
bigdaddy999 is offline  
post #10746 of 10872 Old 03-27-2019, 05:36 PM
Read the FAQ!
 
Bob Pariseau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 35,276
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5832 Post(s)
Liked: 8304
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddy999 View Post
Thank you. I'm 99% sure it's the sub. I think I've pretty much de-rattled the room, lol. I will look through the processor (Anthem S2 Statement) as well as on the sub to see what options I have for cutting off the bottom end. As I said it's not like I play it all that loud, but then some crazy LFE hits and that's when. Good example: Rocket launch in Interstellar.... I did just change the infrasonic filter on the subs from 20hz to 35. One one sub makes the noise. These were calibrated using Anthems room correction SW, so it is possible they're not set at identical levels given what's in the room.
"Interstellar", UHD, is a good, recent example of the "Louder Is Better" screwup -- a classic feature of the School of Shoddy filmmaking. The track is about 6 dB more aggressive than makes sense.

Overdriving noise from just one sub could indicate that it is rocking. Check its feet and see if it seems stable on the floor.
--Bob

Need personal consultation/training? Or just curious about my Blog? Check out my web site!
Bob Pariseau is online now  
post #10747 of 10872 Old 03-27-2019, 05:41 PM
Member
 
bigdaddy999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 186
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
"Interstellar", UHD, is a good, recent example of the "Louder Is Better" screwup -- a classic feature of the School of Shoddy filmmaking. The track is about 6 dB more aggressive than makes sense.

Overdriving noise from just one sub could indicate that it is rocking. Check its feet and see if it seems stable on the floor.
--Bob
It's on carpet. Definitely not able to create that sound. I will test it in the next couple of days at 35hz. I don't know if there's a low pass cutoff in the Anthem, but will look for that.
bigdaddy999 is offline  
post #10748 of 10872 Old 03-29-2019, 07:50 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 0
F1500 sub powers up but no audio.
Sol Calderon is offline  
post #10749 of 10872 Old 03-29-2019, 11:14 AM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
gajCA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 19,392
Mentioned: 224 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9089 Post(s)
Liked: 6232
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sol Calderon View Post
F1500 sub powers up but no audio.
If in the States these guys can likely repair it for $175.

https://www.ebcelectronics.com/velod...r-Service.html

Geoff A. J., California
gajCA is offline  
post #10750 of 10872 Old 03-31-2019, 01:01 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 0
I’m helping a friend try to repair his DLS-5000R amp as it only emits static whenever it's hooked up to an input.

It's more an exercise in learning how to diagnose amp issues and seeing if I can resolve it.

But there's a part on the bottom board that I haven't been able to ID and it looks like it might have overheated.

Here's a picture of it:

https://photos.app.*******/DkTgvnhPWG9P7azW9

*It's the two round pieces, one with the visible label T46.

Thanks for any input on what they might be so I can figure out how to test them!
Dead_end is offline  
post #10751 of 10872 Old 03-31-2019, 01:10 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Guess I haven't posted enough to include links or images.

If you want to see the image, the obscured part of the URL is goo . gl

Otherwise, thanks for any input on how to figure out what the round T46 item is on the bottom board of the DLS-5000R amp.
Dead_end is offline  
post #10752 of 10872 Old 04-04-2019, 06:56 AM
Advanced Member
 
CRAW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Des Moines, Iowa
Posts: 718
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Old CT 120 blowing fuse...

I know this is probably a long shot, but recently I had a CT120 included (for free) in a Craigslist sale. Cosmetically it looks great, and came from a very nice home, but when I plugged it in - nothing. The power light doesn't come on, and I get no "hum" when I plug in the sub woofer cable. I unscrewed the back panel and I see there is a blown fuse right behind the power switch of the sub. I replaced it, and that fuse blew too. The fuse I took out of the sub the first time was a 2 amp / 250 volt. Is that the right fuse?


Like I said, I know this is a long shot, but can anyone offer any advice / trouble shooting? I don't want to spend an incredible amount of time on this old sub, but I thought if it could be an easy fix, I'd be all for it.


TYIA
CRAW is offline  
post #10753 of 10872 Old 04-04-2019, 01:27 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
b curry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: on the way to Hell, Michigan USA
Posts: 4,603
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1033 Post(s)
Liked: 650
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRAW View Post
I know this is probably a long shot, but recently I had a CT120 included (for free) in a Craigslist sale. Cosmetically it looks great, and came from a very nice home, but when I plugged it in - nothing. The power light doesn't come on, and I get no "hum" when I plug in the sub woofer cable. I unscrewed the back panel and I see there is a blown fuse right behind the power switch of the sub. I replaced it, and that fuse blew too. The fuse I took out of the sub the first time was a 2 amp / 250 volt. Is that the right fuse?


Like I said, I know this is a long shot, but can anyone offer any advice / trouble shooting? I don't want to spend an incredible amount of time on this old sub, but I thought if it could be an easy fix, I'd be all for it.


TYIA


The CT series were solid performers. The amplifier is a class AB design and as such can be repaired on the component level. It maybe as simple as a bad capacitor or a power transistor if your popping the fuse. Most any good shop should by able to repair it for you. It's not a very complicated board. There is the input board, amplifier board, and the power supply and transformer.

I believe if you can get in touch with Velodyne service, they will send you the CT-120 schematics for DIY as it's no longer in production, [email protected] .

EBC Electronics has a flat rate repair for the CT-120 for $150. I've used them before and can recommended them highly. You send them just the amplifier and they send it back working like new.

https://www.ebcelectronics.com/velod...r-Service.html


I do see a Velodyne CT Series Amplifier Module on ebay for sale at $22 but it's listed for the CT-100, the 10" driver version. It should work fine but it could be 20 watts short of the CT-120 amplifier spec's but I doubt it as the difference is usually a difference in power supply size. As far as I know, both units used the same model 89-0034 amplifier. Maybe well worth the $22 with free shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Velodyne-CT...4383.l4275.c10


Here's the CT-100/CT-120 manual. I believe 2A/250V is the correct fuse value.

http://velodyneacoustics.com/pdf/ct/CTSeriesManual.pdf
CRAW, drh3b and shs1234 like this.
b curry is offline  
post #10754 of 10872 Old 04-04-2019, 01:34 PM
Advanced Member
 
CRAW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Des Moines, Iowa
Posts: 718
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by b curry View Post
The CT series were solid performers. The amplifier is a class AB design...

Wow, man. Thanks a lot for your thoughtful and diligent reply! I really appreciate it! Thanks!!!

Last edited by CRAW; 04-05-2019 at 05:12 AM.
CRAW is offline  
post #10755 of 10872 Old 04-22-2019, 08:51 PM
Member
 
z3roz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 75
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 55 Post(s)
Liked: 19
I have a DEQ-15R that is awesome but has developed a rattle in the upper rear area of the enclosure. I know it's there because if I push down on that area the rattle goes away. I popped the amp out and tightened the allen screws that hold the top on, but still it rattles. Thoughts?

Separate topic. I'd like to add a minivee as a second sub to cover what the DEQ-15R doesn't. Good idea? Terrible idea? I have AT 270THX fronts and dipole surrounds. I've got a fairly big dip at 40-50hz. Room acoustics are decent and I've done the subcrawl and use Audyssey XT32.

Last edited by z3roz; 04-25-2019 at 07:04 PM.
z3roz is offline  
post #10756 of 10872 Old 04-23-2019, 06:21 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 0
DD 18 issues,

anyone comes cross this kind of issue: Sub makes this loud thumping noise, even without input, no noise when it standby.

every couple seconds, it comes the noise.

please help.
fire88 is offline  
post #10757 of 10872 Old 04-23-2019, 12:29 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
gajCA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 19,392
Mentioned: 224 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9089 Post(s)
Liked: 6232
Quote:
Originally Posted by fire88 View Post
DD 18 issues,

anyone comes cross this kind of issue: Sub makes this loud thumping noise, even without input, no noise when it standby.

every couple seconds, it comes the noise.

please help.
Time to pull the amp and send it to these guys for repair.

https://www.ebcelectronics.com/velod...r-Service.html

Geoff A. J., California
gajCA is offline  
post #10758 of 10872 Old 04-24-2019, 03:57 AM
Newbie
 
smolteni's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Hi, yesterday my DD+ 10 suffering exactly about this issue, someone has the missed information? Wich capacitor need to be replace?
Thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Val_Val View Post
DD+ 12
The remote stopped working (new batteries). Receiving constant "P3" message on display.
The electronics are not damaged.
Failed firmware
Where can I download the new firmware?
Please, help
It is not a firmware issue.

There is a known issue that effected the DD+ sub-woofers built between 2011 and 2013. It doesn't hit every unit but when it does it causes the unit to show "P3" and the unit stops responding to the remote.

There is a capacitor on the power board that needs to be replaced with a different value. If you email Velodyne they can tell you which one and what it needs to be traded with. Just tell them the symptoms you mentioned above.
smolteni is offline  
post #10759 of 10872 Old 04-24-2019, 05:57 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
drh3b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Saint Louis, MO
Posts: 3,770
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2033 Post(s)
Liked: 4038
Velodyne might have to pivot back to subwoofers as it looks like eventually LIDAR will be supplanted by cheap cameras.
https://gizmodo.com/elon-musk-was-ri...dar-1834266742
drh3b is offline  
post #10760 of 10872 Old 04-30-2019, 04:12 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 0
I've recently moved house and I've got two Velodyne SPL 1200 Ultra subwoofers which the removals company didn't move so carefully! Unfortunately they're scratched/marked and I want to have the cabinets repainted. I've taken the amplifiers out no problem but I can't work out how to remove the front panel and woofer! They're not screwed in from the front and there's no screws on the inside either...
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
kcajjones is offline  
post #10761 of 10872 Old 05-05-2019, 12:10 PM
Newbie
 
Marc84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
The LED display of my Velodyne SPL-1200 Ultra says the following:

What does this mean?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1702.JPG
Views:	35
Size:	21.1 KB
ID:	2562706  
Marc84 is offline  
post #10762 of 10872 Old 05-09-2019, 06:35 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 0
I have a velodyne hgs12bg. Recently I hear a weird noise when I turn on my reciever and it doesn't want to turn on at low volumes, I have to turn the Chanel level on my receiver up to get it to turn on. It does fine at high volumes though????
Dannyboy559 is offline  
post #10763 of 10872 Old 05-22-2019, 07:41 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by aronake View Post
Anyone managed to get hold of the Digital drive service manual? If so id be very happy for a PM.

I really want to find it.
Hello,
I too would be interested to have a copy of the service manual for the DD+ 12
Many thanks.
antoine_b is offline  
post #10764 of 10872 Old 05-24-2019, 08:52 AM
Member
 
sunshdw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Good morning gents,
I've got a DD18+ and I am at the end of my rope. The issue is my sub won't come out of standby mode(as best I can describe it). Here's an example of what I mean. When I get home from work the first thing I do is fire up the system to my Apple TV to play Pandora at a moderate volume. The issue is the sub has no output, the remote nor the controls on the front are responsive. The LED display doesn't come up or show the volume changes when pressing the remote vol +\- or turning the front control knob. None of the preset buttons do anything or any other buttons, the sub is just sitting there dead. Once I power cycle it then the sub comes alive and works normally. When I come home the next day, I go through the same routine to get it to work again.

I've spent a bunch of money with 2 shops in So. Cal to fix this and when I get the amp back it works for a while, then goes back to doing this again. I'm really close to cutting my ties and throwing this thing in a dumpster.

I'm hoping someone has run into this problem and can give me some help.
Thanks!
gajCA likes this.
sunshdw is offline  
post #10765 of 10872 Old 05-24-2019, 11:41 AM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
gajCA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 19,392
Mentioned: 224 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9089 Post(s)
Liked: 6232
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunshdw View Post
Good morning gents,
I've got a DD18+ and I am at the end of my rope. The issue is my sub won't come out of standby mode(as best I can describe it). Here's an example of what I mean. When I get home from work the first thing I do is fire up the system to my Apple TV to play Pandora at a moderate volume. The issue is the sub has no output, the remote nor the controls on the front are responsive. The LED display doesn't come up or show the volume changes when pressing the remote vol +\- or turning the front control knob. None of the preset buttons do anything or any other buttons, the sub is just sitting there dead. Once I power cycle it then the sub comes alive and works normally. When I come home the next day, I go through the same routine to get it to work again.

I've spent a bunch of money with 2 shops in So. Cal to fix this and when I get the amp back it works for a while, then goes back to doing this again. I'm really close to cutting my ties and throwing this thing in a dumpster.

I'm hoping someone has run into this problem and can give me some help.
Thanks!
If you already tried George Meyer AV in SoCal give it one last try by calling these guys.

You may, sadly, have to send them the amp though but could well be worth the effort.

https://www.ebcelectronics.com/velod...r-Service.html

Geoff A. J., California
gajCA is offline  
post #10766 of 10872 Old 05-24-2019, 11:46 AM
Member
 
sunshdw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by gajCA View Post
If you already tried George Meyer AV in SoCal give it one last try by calling these guys.

You may, sadly, have to send them the amp though but could well be worth the effort.

https://www.ebcelectronics.com/velod...r-Service.html
Yes I have sent them this amp section twice, along with a video showing them what it's doing and a picture of me ohm testing the driver proving them wrong when they said it's blown. To be honest I don't think they could find their own ass with both hands and a map.

While reading through some of this thread I saw that companies website and I just may try it one more time if no one has any suggestions.
gajCA likes this.
sunshdw is offline  
post #10767 of 10872 Old 05-24-2019, 12:23 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
gajCA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 19,392
Mentioned: 224 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9089 Post(s)
Liked: 6232
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunshdw View Post
Yes I have sent them this amp section twice, along with a video showing them what it's doing and a picture of me ohm testing the driver proving them wrong when they said it's blown. To be honest I don't think they could find their own ass with both hands and a map.

While reading through some of this thread I saw that companies website and I just may try it one more time if no one has any suggestions.
George Meyer "fixed" my DD15 amp to the tune of $670, EQ section second time I sent it back, and while it "works" it doesn't seem to have quite the extension it used to so if I have another issue I'm going to try the company I linked before throwing in the towel.

Geoff A. J., California
gajCA is offline  
post #10768 of 10872 Old 05-24-2019, 12:28 PM
Member
 
sunshdw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by gajCA View Post
George Meyer "fixed" my DD15 amp to the tune of $670, EQ section second time I sent it back, and while it "works" it doesn't seem to have quite the extension it used to so if I have another issue I'm going to try the company I linked before throwing in the towel.
It looks like theres a few here that have had good luck with them so yeah I'll probably go that route as well
sunshdw is offline  
post #10769 of 10872 Old 05-24-2019, 12:49 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
gajCA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 19,392
Mentioned: 224 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9089 Post(s)
Liked: 6232
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunshdw View Post
It looks like theres a few here that have had good luck with them so yeah I'll probably go that route as well
Let us know if they actually repair it properly so I can have a future plan as well.

Good luck.

Geoff A. J., California
gajCA is offline  
post #10770 of 10872 Old 05-26-2019, 07:54 PM
Member
 
z3roz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 75
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 55 Post(s)
Liked: 19
I emailed them weeks ago. No response. I bought a Monolith. Sooooo much better anyways.

Cheers!
z3roz is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers

Tags
Velodyne Acoustics , Velodyne Impact 10 10 Subwoofer , Velodyne Wiconnect 10 Wireless Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 8 8 Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 10 10 Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 12 12 Subwoofer , Velodyne Eq Max 15 15 Subwoofer , Velodyne

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off