* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 361 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10801 of 10842 Old 07-03-2019, 10:57 PM
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HELP WITH A DEQ-8R BV PLEASE.

I successfully repair the SMPS and the D Power Amp Module in this Sub, so it powers on now and it sounds but at a very low volume level even when the volume is at max/full (#80), also the Low Pass Crossover potentiometer seems that it does not do any change. Someone who has had this same or similar problem and can help me gently with any suggestions please ???
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post #10802 of 10842 Old 07-05-2019, 01:57 PM
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Hi all, hoping someone can provide some help to my problem. I have a Velodyne F1200b. While watching TV one day there was an audible pop and then a hum. I've since detached it and plugged it into the wall sans inputs to make sure it was the woofer and not the source. The him is still there. I've unscrewed the cone to make sure there was nothing wrong and there isn't. And unscrewing the back panel did not reveal any visible damage. I suspect it may be due to a capacitor but unsure of which and where to get replacements. Any directions would be fantastic. Apologies if this has been answered countless times in the past but my google-fu has not been strong with this problem.
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post #10803 of 10842 Old 07-09-2019, 06:12 PM
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I've been having an issue with my HGS15BG where it makes a popping noise at the same level regardless of whether it's plugged into any source and regardless of what volume it is set at. I've been trying to reach Velodyne customer support for the past two weeks using the form on their website but haven't had any luck, and I haven't come across a phone number.

Any suggestions as to reaching them -- I came across a phone number on their Amazon page and will probably try that tomorrow.

Or better yet, what might be wrong with the sub, and maybe I could try and fix it myself depending on the issue.
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post #10804 of 10842 Old 07-09-2019, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by djdwosk97 View Post
I've been having an issue with my HGS15BG where it makes a popping noise at the same level regardless of whether it's plugged into any source and regardless of what volume it is set at. I've been trying to reach Velodyne customer support for the past two weeks using the form on their website but haven't had any luck, and I haven't come across a phone number.

Any suggestions as to reaching them or what might be wrong with the sub -- and maybe I could try and fix it myself.
Forget about Velodyne!

Company couldn't care less about subwoofers and the people who bought them.

I heartily recommend contacting Paul at ebcelectronics.com

Paul specializes in repairing Velodynes. His work is expert and reasonable.

He brought my HGS12 back to life.

Last edited by SnellKrell; 07-09-2019 at 06:22 PM.
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post #10805 of 10842 Old 07-09-2019, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SnellKrell View Post
Forget about Velodyne!

Company couldn't care less about subwoofers and the people who bought them.

I heartily recommend contacting Paul at ebcelectronics.com

Paul specializes in repairing Velodynes. His work is expert and reasonable.

He brought by HGS12 back to life.
That's sad to hear. I'll reach out and see what they have to say. I also attached a snippet of the sound that the sub is making in case you might have a hunch what's wrong then I might be able to fix it myself.
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post #10806 of 10842 Old 07-10-2019, 06:08 PM
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Using the main Lidar phone number there is an option for Velodyne Acoustics sales and another option for parts and service. Yesterday I left a message regarding a new purchase and they returned the call today.

I spoke with someone who claimed to be from Velodyne Acoustic's LLc. They said the owners maybe trying to sell the company. That the website was hacked and they're working on it. They mentioned they had quite a bit of stock left.

They quoted me DD-12 Plus for $1947. or $1831. for a DD-10 Plus plus shipping or pickup at a Fremont, CA. location. I think that's roughly 44% off retail, probably a dealer price? Sounds like liquefaction to me.

Sales (669) 275-2217 leave message
Parts / Service (669) 275-2219 leave message

I left a message with parts today, no response yet.

There was a very sad Velodyne Yelp review obviously made by an employee.
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post #10807 of 10842 Old 07-11-2019, 10:10 AM
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I have a Velodyne DEQ-8R sub that I plan to integrate into my stereo system. The sub has a 120Hz high-pass filter on the line level connections, however I would prefer to set my own crossover and let my speakers still operate full range.

If I set a specific value on the crossover dial, will that take precedence over the high pass filter and disable it?

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post #10808 of 10842 Old 07-11-2019, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-dB View Post
Using the main Lidar phone number there is an option for Velodyne Acoustics sales and another option for parts and service. Yesterday I left a message regarding a new purchase and they returned the call today.

I spoke with someone who claimed to be from Velodyne Acoustic's LLc. They said the owners maybe trying to sell the company. That the website was hacked and they're working on it. They mentioned they had quite a bit of stock left.

They quoted me DD-12 Plus for $1947. or $1831. for a DD-10 Plus plus shipping or pickup at a Fremont, CA. location. I think that's roughly 44% off retail, probably a dealer price? Sounds like liquefaction to me.

Sales (669) 275-2217 leave message
Parts / Service (669) 275-2219 leave message

I left a message with parts today, no response yet.

There was a very sad Velodyne Yelp review obviously made by an employee.
Hopefully someone will buy them and turn them into what they once were...but with more competitive pricing!

You'll have to link the Yelp review as I don't see anything like that here.

https://www.yelp.com/biz/velodyne-ac...-morgan-hill-2

I have a DD15 but I'd not pay more for a new Velodyne unless it was at the same price or less than a comparable Rhythmik subwoofer.

Geoff A. J., California
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post #10809 of 10842 Old 07-13-2019, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnellKrell View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by djdwosk97 View Post
I've been having an issue with my HGS15BG where it makes a popping noise at the same level regardless of whether it's plugged into any source and regardless of what volume it is set at. I've been trying to reach Velodyne customer support for the past two weeks using the form on their website but haven't had any luck, and I haven't come across a phone number.

Any suggestions as to reaching them or what might be wrong with the sub -- and maybe I could try and fix it myself.
Forget about Velodyne!

Company couldn't care less about subwoofers and the people who bought them.

I heartily recommend contacting Paul at ebcelectronics.com

Paul specializes in repairing Velodynes. His work is expert and reasonable.

He brought my HGS12 back to life.
I'm removing the amp from my HGS15 and I just want to double check that the wire leads are soldered and crimped onto the board so I have to cut them.

I just want to make sure I'm not being too gentle and just not pulling hard enough.
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post #10810 of 10842 Old 07-13-2019, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djdwosk97 View Post
I'm removing the amp from my HGS15 and I just want to double check that the wire leads are soldered and crimped onto the board so I have to cut them.

I just want to make sure I'm not being too gentle and just not pulling hard enough.
On my HGS12 there was no cutting of wires!!!!!

The wires from the speaker pulled out of (unplugged) components on the amplifier.

I took pictures to allow me to reinstall properly.

DO NOT CUT WIRES!


Contact Paul at EBC and I would think he'd be able to guide you through
the process.
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post #10811 of 10842 Old 07-13-2019, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnellKrell View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by djdwosk97 View Post
I'm removing the amp from my HGS15 and I just want to double check that the wire leads are soldered and crimped onto the board so I have to cut them.

I just want to make sure I'm not being too gentle and just not pulling hard enough.
On my HGS12 there was no cutting of wires!!!!!

The wires from the speaker pulled out of (unplugged) components on the amplifier.

I took pictures to allow me to reinstall properly.

DO NOT CUT WIRES!


Contact Paul at EBC and I would think he'd be able to guide you through
the process.
Mine had two wires that appeared to be soldered and crimped in place and a third set of wires connected via a block connector.

I ended up cutting the two wires and I'll just splice them back in when I get it back.
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post #10812 of 10842 Old 07-15-2019, 11:11 AM
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Question regarding setup. Is it safer to have more gain/volume on the receiver or more gain/volume on the sub's amp?

Coming from car audio you would have the amp set with a high gain and use the receiver/processor to increase or reduce the sub's volume.

Currently my receiver has the sub @ 0 dB and Sub Volume is at 30.

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post #10813 of 10842 Old 07-15-2019, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by maximus5403 View Post
Question regarding setup. Is it safer to have more gain/volume on the receiver or more gain/volume on the sub's amp?

Coming from car audio you would have the amp set with a high gain and use the receiver/processor to increase or reduce the sub's volume.

Currently my receiver has the sub @ 0 dB and Sub Volume is at 30.
That sounds pretty good; most folks aim for a negative single digit number in the AVR menu like -6db or so.

My DD15 is at -9db in the AVR menu and sub volume is at 12!.

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post #10814 of 10842 Old 07-15-2019, 07:51 PM
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That sounds pretty good; most folks aim for a negative single digit number in the AVR menu like -6db or so.

My DD15 is at -9db in the AVR menu and sub volume is at 12!.
Thanks. Trying to set these up together has been a nightmare. Manual says to daisy chain them but it's not working because one is on firmware 2.2 and the other is on 1.4. Not finding any way to update so I'm just going to run the 2nd to my 2nd sub output. I do wish these were simpler...

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post #10815 of 10842 Old 07-16-2019, 01:48 PM
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Hopefully someone will buy them and turn them into what they once were...but with more competitive pricing!

You'll have to link the Yelp review as I don't see anything like that here.

https://www.yelp.com/biz/velodyne-ac...-morgan-hill-2

I have a DD15 but I'd not pay more for a new Velodyne unless it was at the same price or less than a comparable Rhythmik subwoofer.

gajCA,

There seems to be many satisfied Rhythmik users. Are you using any of the DD-15s EQ features?

I'm still using an EarthQuake Nova 15 in my home theater system with Pioneer Elite MCACC providing its equalization but it's just TV. It turns out adding ELF to a two channel room was far more demanding.

I replaced my HGS-18 fourteen years ago with the DD-18 and the more advanced Plus' in 2012. Without the development guidance of David Hall I'm not sure what more technical advancement a new owner would bring.

With one of my Plus' being repaired I never anticipated Velodyne closing. If there is another subwoofer or a stand alone component with the processing power of the Velodyne Digital Drive Plus I would truly value that referral.
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post #10816 of 10842 Old 07-16-2019, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by M-dB View Post
gajCA,

There seems to be many satisfied Rhythmik users. Are you using any of the DD-15s EQ features?

I'm still using an EarthQuake Nova 15 in my home theater system with Pioneer Elite MCACC providing its equalization but it's just TV. It turns out adding ELF to a two channel room was far more demanding.

I replaced my HGS-18 fourteen years ago with the DD-18 and the more advanced Plus' in 2012. Without the development guidance of David Hall I'm not sure what more technical advancement a new owner would bring.

With one of my Plus' being repaired I never anticipated Velodyne closing. If there is another subwoofer or a stand alone component with the processing power of the Velodyne Digital Drive Plus I would truly value that referral.
Yes I use the DD15s microphone based EQ and have had good results with it.

If I got a Rhythmik down the road by then I'd assume I'd have an AVR with the latest EQ that would also EQ the subs.

If not, I'd get a standalone EQ device like the Anti Mode Dual Core.

In my secondary room I used a MiniDSP, Umik and REW to dial in my dual subs and that might actually be the cheapest way to do it but I never felt the need to try that in my main living room as I'm happy with the results the DD15's EQ delivers.

Geoff A. J., California
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post #10817 of 10842 Old 07-16-2019, 02:41 PM
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Thanks. Trying to set these up together has been a nightmare. Manual says to daisy chain them but it's not working because one is on firmware 2.2 and the other is on 1.4. Not finding any way to update so I'm just going to run the 2nd to my 2nd sub output. I do wish these were simpler...
http://velodyneacoustics.com/software

I'm not sure if the software is still downloading. You may need to register from the main page. If you're successful at registering the log in page may take you to a fatal error page. Wait a few seconds then (back click) < and you should be in.
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post #10818 of 10842 Old 07-16-2019, 05:10 PM
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I have a Velodyne DEQ-8R sub that I plan to integrate into my stereo system. The sub has a 120Hz high-pass filter on the line level connections, however I would prefer to set my own crossover and let my speakers still operate full range.

If I set a specific value on the crossover dial, will that take precedence over the high pass filter and disable it?

Transmaniacon,

The manual on their site http://velodyneacoustics.com/pdf/deq-r/DEQ-RManual.pdf doesn't mention a High Pass Filter. You'll be using the Low Pass Crossover. Determine at what frequency your main speakers begin to drop off preferably using review measurements. If you use the manufactures stated frequency response, which is usually -3dB or -6dB, you may need to raise the subs crossover point slightly after you perform the Auto EQ.

Before you get to Auto EQ and the crossover you might want to go on line and check out Crawl Testing Subwoofer Placement. Essentially, placing your sub on your listening position playing bass heavy music crawling around and listening for your rooms modes (areas where the bass sounds loudest) which denotes a superior location for your subwoofer.

If you find crawl testing interesting but need long interconnects check out Monoprice or Blue Jeans Cable for economical but well made interconnects.
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post #10819 of 10842 Old 07-16-2019, 06:21 PM
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Transmaniacon,



The manual on their site http://velodyneacoustics.com/pdf/deq-r/DEQ-RManual.pdf doesn't mention a High Pass Filter. You'll be using the Low Pass Crossover. Determine at what frequency your main speakers begin to drop off preferably using review measurements. If you use the manufactures stated frequency response, which is usually -3dB or -6dB, you may need to raise the subs crossover point slightly after you perform the Auto EQ.



Before you get to Auto EQ and the crossover you might want to go on line and check out Crawl Testing Subwoofer Placement. Essentially, placing your sub on your listening position playing bass heavy music crawling around and listening for your rooms modes (areas where the bass sounds loudest) which denotes a superior location for your subwoofer.



If you find crawl testing interesting but need long interconnects check out Monoprice or Blue Jeans Cable for economical but well made interconnects.


Page 7 under “line output” talks about the high pass crossover. I am trying to figure out if I can defeat the high pass crossover by using some value other than the maximum (which I believe is the correct setting for the high pass filter).

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post #10820 of 10842 Old 07-16-2019, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by M-dB View Post
gajCA,

There seems to be many satisfied Rhythmik users. Are you using any of the DD-15s EQ features?

I'm still using an EarthQuake Nova 15 in my home theater system with Pioneer Elite MCACC providing its equalization but it's just TV. It turns out adding ELF to a two channel room was far more demanding.
Fa
I replaced my HGS-18 fourteen years ago with the DD-18 and the more advanced Plus' in 2012. Without the development guidance of David Hall I'm not sure what more technical advancement a new owner would bring.

With one of my Plus' being repaired I never anticipated Velodyne closing. If there is another subwoofer or a stand alone component with the processing power of the Velodyne Digital Drive Plus I would truly value that referral.
While it's not popular on these forums, largely I think because of price, the JL Audio Fathom units are a substantial step up from anything Velodyne has ever offered.

I have an older Velodyne F-1200, a DD-12, and two Mini Vee'e. I use the Mini Vee's for our backyard movies. The DD-12 is used for TV and the F-1200 is in retirement.

A single JL Audio F113 easily pressurizes our 3000 cu/ft dedicated theater. I've added a second for modal correction. The JL Audio's on board RC does an excellent job in my room and is a substantial step up from Velodyne's RC IMO.

I've not had any experience with Rythmik Audio's product, but on paper, I would expect these products to be the closest or maybe the logical progression of what Velodyne has done in the past/present but maybe short of Velodyne's RC products.
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While it's not popular on these forums, largely I think because of price, the JL Audio Fathom units are a substantial step up from anything Velodyne has ever offered.

I have an older Velodyne F-1200, a DD-12, and two Mini Vee'e. I use the Mini Vee's for our backyard movies. The DD-12 is used for TV and the F-1200 is in retirement.

A single JL Audio F113 easily pressurizes our 3000 cu/ft dedicated theater. I've added a second for modal correction. The JL Audio's on board RC does an excellent job in my room and is a substantial step up from Velodyne's RC IMO.

I've not had any experience with Rythmik Audio's product, but on paper, I would expect these products to be the closest or maybe the logical progression of what Velodyne has done in the past/present but maybe short of Velodyne's RC products.
b curry,

Thanks for the suggestion. We use our Velodyne's in our main two channel (music only) system. We compared an F113 v1 and found it to be a very potent high quality subwoofer for its size. The ARO and even the increased multi-band v2 DARO are limited in their manual adjustability. A quick study of the JL Audio $3000. CR-1 active outboard crossover doesn't cover what the Velodyne Plus offers.

In the Plus they revised its Digital Drive System Settings and developed the addition of the Frequency Response And Parameters Screen which includes Filter Frequency and Level, Summation and Individual Parametric Filter EQs, and Parametric Q Filter which are all click and drag software adjustments.

After the Auto EQ performs an initial adjustment of these parameters through trial and error these parameters can be manually fine tuned from the listening position. This type of multi-band gain and equalization allows the user to tailor the subs output and Q at higher crossover point to attain a smoother transition that more closely matches the main speakers sonic presentation in the crossover region and on down. Kind of difficult to explain the sound of the results until you actually hear the difference. We fed the F113 from the DD Plus and reached practically the same crossover transition.

Anthem / Paradigm's MartinLogan sub has some new application based DSP combined with a proprietary microphone that may be promising. In the mean time I hope I can get this plate amp repaired.

Thanks again
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post #10822 of 10842 Old 07-17-2019, 02:08 AM
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Page 7 under “line output” talks about the high pass crossover. I am trying to figure out if I can defeat the high pass crossover by using some value other than the maximum (which I believe is the correct setting for the high pass filter).
That RCA subwoofer output to the preamp input may be a misprint since you can only select one input on a preamplifier at a time.

It should read RCA subwoofer output to the amplifiers input. That's how my Velodyne's High Pass works.

If your preamp or receiver has two sets of line level outputs simply connect one set to the subwoofers inputs. If you only have one set of preamp outputs I think Audioquest offers some nice solid block RCA splitters.
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post #10823 of 10842 Old 07-17-2019, 08:29 AM
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b curry,

Thanks for the suggestion. We use our Velodyne's in our main two channel (music only) system. We compared an F113 v1 and found it to be a very potent high quality subwoofer for its size. The ARO and even the increased multi-band v2 DARO are limited in their manual adjustability. A quick study of the JL Audio $3000. CR-1 active outboard crossover doesn't cover what the Velodyne Plus offers.

In the Plus they revised its Digital Drive System Settings and developed the addition of the Frequency Response And Parameters Screen which includes Filter Frequency and Level, Summation and Individual Parametric Filter EQs, and Parametric Q Filter which are all click and drag software adjustments.

After the Auto EQ performs an initial adjustment of these parameters through trial and error these parameters can be manually fine tuned from the listening position. This type of multi-band gain and equalization allows the user to tailor the subs output and Q at higher crossover point to attain a smoother transition that more closely matches the main speakers sonic presentation in the crossover region and on down. Kind of difficult to explain the sound of the results until you actually hear the difference. We fed the F113 from the DD Plus and reached practically the same crossover transition.

Anthem / Paradigm's MartinLogan sub has some new application based DSP combined with a proprietary microphone that may be promising. In the mean time I hope I can get this plate amp repaired.

Thanks again
Interesting...

I agree with your point with regards to manual adjustability of the JL Audio ARO/DARO. However, my practical experience is nearly a polar opposite.

My two channel system is built around Apogee full range ribbon speakers with the now discontinued F110. The integration/crossover/voicing between the two is audibly invisible with the F110 placed at a right angle to the Apogee's and using only the F110's ARO. Big sound stage with extremely well defined imagining. I was never able to achieve this with Velodyne's DD or SMS products.

Our dedicated theater uses F113's and we fine tune with Dirac. The F113's tend to play smother and with a much wider dynamic range than the DD's.

We use two Velodyne Mini Vee's in our backyard theater and the great outdoors makes the use of RC a moot point.

Don't get me wrong. I very much like Velodyne's products and I wish that they had continued development of new product. Velodyne was always in the forefront as an industry leader with regards to technology, design, and generally quality. However, the move to switching power supply, class D amplifiers as used and supplied in the DD's, SPL's, HGS, etc. series of product leaves something of a bad taste for many. These amplifiers are not designed to be repaired but exchanged like and kind; the economics of a disposable society. And with Velodyne sheepishly withdrawing from the market making exchange a near impossibility, it's quite fortunate that businesses like EBC are around to do the heavy lifting.

But, I think the industry is at a point where quite powerful DSP SiP Blocks are available at much lower price points and are being incorporated in AVR's and pre-pro's at very affordable prices. More powerful RC algorithms from companies like Dirac and improvements to existing RC algorithms like Anthem's ARC Genesis will make RC built into a subwoofer box much less desirable or even necessary. You see this reflected in product from JL Audio and others where a driver with a powerful motor structure is offered with less RC capability at a lower price point.
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post #10824 of 10842 Old 07-18-2019, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by M-dB View Post
That RCA subwoofer output to the preamp input may be a misprint since you can only select one input on a preamplifier at a time.



It should read RCA subwoofer output to the amplifiers input. That's how my Velodyne's High Pass works.



If your preamp or receiver has two sets of line level outputs simply connect one set to the subwoofers inputs. If you only have one set of preamp outputs I think Audioquest offers some nice solid block RCA splitters.


My path is as such:

Sources > Schiit SYS Preamp Inputs

Schiit SYS Output > Velodyne RCA Input

Velodyne RCA Output > Parasound Amp Input

If I’m reading you right, this configuration with a sub crossover set around 60-80Hz will not engage the high pass filter?

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post #10825 of 10842 Old 07-19-2019, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Transmaniacon View Post
My path is as such:

Sources > Schiit SYS Preamp Inputs

Schiit SYS Output > Velodyne RCA Input

Velodyne RCA Output > Parasound Amp Input

If I’m reading you right, this configuration with a sub crossover set around 60-80Hz will not engage the high pass filter?
That's correct.

I apologize for my misunderstanding. I'm not certain a passive preamp is compatible controlling both the subwoofer and the amplifier. I don't see a problem but you might want to contact Schitt.

You should have typical Crossover control of the subwoofer until you turn the crossover control all the way to 120Hz. The sub should now become a fixed 120 Hz High Pass filter for the signal going to the Parasound and the sub will output all the way up to 120Hz.

I don't recommend using High Pass filtering unless the amplifier is not powerful enough to fully drive the main speakers or if the speakers have a very poor low frequency response.
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post #10826 of 10842 Old 07-19-2019, 04:40 AM
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That's correct.



I apologize for my misunderstanding. I'm not certain a passive preamp is compatible controlling both the subwoofer and the amplifier. I don't see a problem but you might want to contact Schitt.



You should have typical Crossover control of the subwoofer until you turn the crossover control all the way to 120Hz. The sub should now become a fixed 120 Hz High Pass filter for the signal going to the Parasound and the sub will output all the way up to 120Hz.



I don't recommend using High Pass filtering unless the amplifier is not powerful enough to fully drive the main speakers or if the speakers have a very poor low frequency response.


Thanks! I will contact Schiit and make sure there is no issue with this connection. I definitely don’t want to use the high pass filter, just want to add a bit more low end to things and let the Chanes continue to play everything.

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post #10827 of 10842 Old 07-20-2019, 11:20 AM
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Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread or whatever. Need suggestions. I own 2 paridgm pdr10 and came across 2 velodyne dsl3750r from a divorce sale for $225.00. Bought without a blink. This is a better sub for sure with lower extension. However I would like to incorporate all 4 if possible.
Do I put the velos in the front and pdrs in back or 2 of each cross cornered. Is the difference between the 2 so different that the pdrs will bring down the velos.
I know the cht10s were the predosser to the 3750 and were comparable to the pdrs then so...
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post #10828 of 10842 Old 07-21-2019, 03:23 PM
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Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread or whatever. Need suggestions. I own 2 paridgm pdr10 and came across 2 velodyne dsl3750r from a divorce sale for $225.00. Bought without a blink. This is a better sub for sure with lower extension. However I would like to incorporate all 4 if possible.
Do I put the velos in the front and pdrs in back or 2 of each cross cornered. Is the difference between the 2 so different that the pdrs will bring down the velos.
I know the cht10s were the predosser to the 3750 and were comparable to the pdrs then so...
Rich 63, With four subs you essentially have what is currently being referred to as a Swarm.

If you're able to monaurally daisy chain them via low level (RCA or XLR) then place them in the rooms four corners. This will literally eliminate most if not all of your room modes and load the rooms bass frequencies nicely.

I'd suggest placing the pairs in diagonal corners to begin with. Economical long cable runs are available at Blue Jeans Cable or Monoprice.
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post #10829 of 10842 Old 07-22-2019, 05:24 AM
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I did just that and it works well. There is a noticeable lower end. Not surprising give the 8hz lower difference between the 2 subs.I used a splitter off of 1 preout to the front soundstage and ran to the rear soundstage off of the second preout and dasied the 2 in back. Room constraints did not allow 4 corner loading so they are 1/4 distance off each corner along front and back walls respectively. Waf.

Last edited by Rich 63; 07-22-2019 at 05:27 AM. Reason: Clarifying
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post #10830 of 10842 Old 07-25-2019, 05:26 AM
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Hello,
could someone help me with my pre-owned velodyne spl-1200 ultra, mfgd in 2008, serial number 682591001? If it was left connect to AC power with main switch on, after a while (like 6-10 hours), it's stops to give any sounds. If I leave it for few hours with main switch off, then it's start to work normally for another few hours. Auto power settings doesn't affect that behavior. When it is in this faulty mode, it's still can sense incoming signal (when auto power on option is selected, volume indicator turn's on when sub detects incoming signal).
I will really appreciate if someone can send me electronic schematics of this unit. I already sent an email to service at velodyne dot com, but no reply yet for almost a week now.
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