Short answer--there is not one.
Long answer--Custom built and powered subwoofers, along the lines of 4 of them (minimum) with proper parametric EQ, dynamic EQ to protect the driver (or building) bass management with many measurements to match the room/building, your personal frequency response requirements, distortion limits, space limits and SPL requirements.
Eventually, we all have to climb out of the rabbit hole and determine wants VS needs VS cost VS space available.
I've been building subs for decades--blame that on car audio! The good thing about car audio is you have a very limited space, limited areas where subwoofers can be installed and you don't have unlimited power available to power the subwoofers. A great way to learn the limits quickly be they frying batteries/alternators, blowing the glass out of the vehicle to attempting the uber sub build to actually fit in the car.
The first question is frequency response, 20 Hz? 16Hz? 8 Hz or4 whatever you desire but that is the first real world limit. The physical building will resonate at a specific frequency, everyone does not live in an underground bunker to the first puzzle is how low can you go? Then you have SPL requirements--how loud at your listening position and at what frequency? The good thing about subs is the more you add, the more even your frequency response will be, the lower power you need for a specific SPL and it lowers distortion as you add more.
When people ask me, I tell them to go to a THX certified theater and watch an action film and determine what you want be it more SPL, less SPL or deeper frequency response. For most people that ask me those questions, they are not well versed in reference levels, frequency response, SPL and that sort of thing. If they really don't know much, they find it much easier to understand by comparing their wants to what a THX theater provides. The makes a HUGE difference in what is required for their system be it "half as loud" (-10 dB frome reference) "a little quieter than the theater (-3dB) or they want refference because that is what they want the system to do. Once they go past iMax levels (105dB at MLP for mids/highs and 118dB peaks for bass response at around 20 to 25Hz) then I step asside as they will need more electrical power than provided in typical rooms, might need some constuction to beef up the room and so on.
For most normal people, I tell them to get an AVR with pre-amp outs so if they need more power for the mains--they can add it if needed. Start off with two subwoofers that meet the frequency response they desire be it 16, 20 or 25 Hz and add more of those same subwoofers until their frequency response smoothness, distortion and SPL levels are met. Generally speaking, if they have the space I'll direct them towards ported if they want reference levels in the 16Hz to 25Hz range and want to start with two subwoofers. If they want 5 to 15Hz performance and cost, quanity and size is not an issue--then I direct them towards sealed subs and keep stacking them until the budget is blown, the breakers blow, drywall damage happens or they become content. The greatness of sealed subs is you can use EQ (within limits) to get the frequency response correct down low when the room dominates the response. You might need quite a few subwoofers to do that but they will know that going in.
For example, my brother wants a system in a year or two and yes, he wants reference levels because he wants a theater experience. He does not want a rack of amps, no rewiring the room for more electricity and nothing larger than 4 cubic feet for subwoofers. Frequency response smooth down to around 20 Hz but able to provide 16Hz just for extra kick (-6dB at 16Hz) I told him to get 12" ported subs that can go down that far (data-bass.com) and build two subs to start that do that function. The speakers he likes are 96dB 1w/1m and he will sit around 11 feet or 3.3 meters away. Basically, a 100 WPC or so AVR should do it for him but the pre-amp outs in case the rabbit hole goes deep. Two ported 12's won't do it for him to get reference levels at 20 Hz--but it is a good start. If he wants more, he can add more be it 3 or 4 tweleves up to 8 or more. Say he goes nuts and wants to jam out to the Irene Scene (7 or 8 Hz), he can change the subs to sealed and just keep adding more to gain SPL and efficiency to not strain the breakers. My brother is aware of all the specs and what they mean, he built subwoofers for his car and the boat back in the day.
If I get the wide open question of "best" with no other information--my default is to get the JTR 4000 ULF--get four of them and go. If they want single digits, get 18 to 32 inch sealed subs and keep stacking them until you get there. Not enough information as the room dominate the discussion. For most people, when they talk about subs things become too large once you get past four cubic feet so their choices are 10/12 ported boxes or 15/18" sealed boxes be it off the shelf or DIY (or kits to assemble) I just guide them to get the frequency response exactly what they want first--then keep adding until the distortion, smoothness and SPL requirements are met. Nothing worse than playing musical subs and taking a bath on them financially as they get into the upgrade wallet draining path.
For most people, the vast majority of typical people--if they can get 20Hz at close to reference levels they tend to be content. The monoprice 10" sub, various low tuned 12 or 15" subs will work wonders for them. If they are not sure, I guide them to the subs that can be "tuned" by closing a port or closing all of them for sealed alignment. Always nice to have options! I have a pair of large subs in my garage, I designed them to run either 24Hz ported or sealed so my buddies can play around with them. They are high passed at 21Hz but they get a good idea of what all those jibber-jabber numbers mean. Each sub can punch 118 dB above 30Hz in the model so two of them easily hit reference levels. Interesting to watch as the bass heads demand crazy high SPL then actually hear what 115dB sounds and feels like. Generally, they then adjust their demands.
Personally, I use three ported subs for my HT--they provide reference levels and have a usable frequency response down to around 16Hz (room gain is your friend!) My house will start doing crazy things down at around 10Hz so any thoughts of infrasond at high SPL is a non-starter--building a bunker is a bit much.
For the record, I've had sealed, bandpass, ported, passive radiator and push-pull slot loaded subs but have yet had the motivation to build a horn loaded subwoofer, I'll get there as the Quadhorn looks like a garage addition just to play around with tapped horns.
If WAF is a concern, subs can be built into end tables, side tables and so on as pretty furniture--custom furniture builders will hook you up if you don't have a wood shop laying around. Other options would be Funk Audio with custom finishes or JTR and Danley Sound Labs do custom finishes if you pay the $$$$ for it. Plenty of options for WAF, you are not required to have a bunch of boxes laying around.
Plenty of options be it custom built, stealth furniture subs, 10 inch all the way up to the Powersoft 40" M-Force sub used for night clubs and rock concerts (you asked!) Pierce Audio just rolled out a 33 inch sub and there are plenty of Powersoft, LABGruppen, Danley Sound Labs or Crown amps to power the beasts. Overkill then runs into weight, the Pierce 33 incher uses neodymium magnets to lighted it up--and at 176 pounds I use the "lighten" term very loosely!
The end result is to go over to data-bass.com and read about subs, vearious alignments and so seriously insane subwoofer builds to see what the rabbit hole has in store for you. The great thing about AVS is somebody already has dove off the deep end and plenty of information abounds for the overkill builds. Such is the hobby, from mild to wild there are people that have such systems and can provide tips and guidance to get what you need without taking out a second home loan.
Still waiting on the Powersoft M-Force 40" sub build--jus' sayin'