Help me with Epik sub repair / amp panel replacement - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Help me with Epik sub repair / amp panel replacement

I haven't used my Epik Empire sub in a while, and now it is not turning on.
I checked the fuses, they are ok.

If it is likely an issue with the amp, what are my choices for replacement (plate amp or external)?

I have seen several topics about issues with Epik amps, so I am would probably look into replacing the amp, rather than trying to fix it.
Specs on sub:
2 x 15 inch speakers
600W (1500w peak) original amp

Thank you very much in advance!
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Last edited by Vladyxa; 07-19-2019 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 07-19-2019, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vladyxa View Post
I haven't used my Epik Empire sub in a while, and now it is not turning on.
I checked the fuses, they are ok.

If it is likely an issue with the amp, what are my choices for replacement (plate amp or external)?

I have seen several topics about issues with Epik amps, so I am would probably look into replacing the amp, rather than trying to fix it.
Specs on sub:
2 x 15 inch speakers
600W (1500w peak) original amp

Thank you very much in advance!

Here's one suggestion. Three things that are good about it-
power rating more or less equivalent
dimensions are close to your existing amp
This has an adjustable high pass filter. You would want to set a 24 db filter at 20hz or so to approximate the DSP on the original amp.


If the amp is a bit smaller than the opening, I would just attach wood strips to the box using the current screw holes and attach the new amp to the wood. If you get a little creative you should be able to make it work.


https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...-dsp--300-8012
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Old 07-19-2019, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpc716 View Post
Here's one suggestion. Three things that are good about it-
power rating more or less equivalent
dimensions are close to your existing amp
This has an adjustable high pass filter. You would want to set a 24 db filter at 20hz or so to approximate the DSP on the original amp.


If the amp is a bit smaller than the opening, I would just attach wood strips to the box using the current screw holes and attach the new amp to the wood. If you get a little creative you should be able to make it work.


https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...-dsp--300-8012
I can second the use of a parts express plate amplifier to repair an Epik sub. I have an Epik Sentinel, and the amp went dead. I obtained a different Parts Express amp that was nearly a perfect match for the opening and had the same power rating. It works great.
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Old 07-20-2019, 04:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpc716 View Post
Here's one suggestion. Three things that are good about it-
power rating more or less equivalent
dimensions are close to your existing amp
This has an adjustable high pass filter. You would want to set a 24 db filter at 20hz or so to approximate the DSP on the original amp.


If the amp is a bit smaller than the opening, I would just attach wood strips to the box using the current screw holes and attach the new amp to the wood. If you get a little creative you should be able to make it work.


https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...-dsp--300-8012
Quote:
Originally Posted by harync View Post
I can second the use of a parts express plate amplifier to repair an Epik sub. I have an Epik Sentinel, and the amp went dead. I obtained a different Parts Express amp that was nearly a perfect match for the opening and had the same power rating. It works great.
Thank you for the suggestion!
If I am going to place the sub in a smaller room (20 x 20) would it make sense to fix the Epik sub for $300, or get a new sub for almost same?

Instead of fixing, I can get:
- Def Tech SuperCube 2000 650W for $480
- Def Tech ProSub 1000 300W for $400
- Klipsch Reference 400W for $360

Or, I could get a used SVS sub, but that would be double the price.
So, maybe the right option would be to get new amp and fix the Epik.

I guess my biggest question is whether I should fix it or not.

Last edited by Vladyxa; 07-20-2019 at 07:44 AM.
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Old 07-20-2019, 10:43 AM
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I would repair/replace the amp, especially if you use it for any music. You’re not going to find anything that sounds as good or fills the room as well for $300, or $600 for that matter. You’d have to up the budget a lot before you’re looking at something comparable.
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Old 07-22-2019, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vladyxa View Post
Thank you for the suggestion!
If I am going to place the sub in a smaller room (20 x 20) would it make sense to fix the Epik sub for $300, or get a new sub for almost same?

Instead of fixing, I can get:
- Def Tech SuperCube 2000 650W for $480
- Def Tech ProSub 1000 300W for $400
- Klipsch Reference 400W for $360

Or, I could get a used SVS sub, but that would be double the price.
So, maybe the right option would be to get new amp and fix the Epik.

I guess my biggest question is whether I should fix it or not.
I ran into the same issue as you. I had 1 good Empire and bought a used one for a 2nd sub with a bad amp. After going round and round what to do. I ended up with an external amp. It was just the better decision vs the plate amp. I am glad I did since the control I have with the external is well worth it. Plus I added a 3rd Empire to my arsenal and having 3 is amazing.

If you decide to get rid of the Epik, I am looking for a 4th and would entertain buying it, the bad amp does not matter to me since I would run it off the external. Where are you located? If you are looking for SVS stuff. I also have an SVS SB12-NSD I will be selling. Let me know if you are interested.
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:09 AM
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I have an empire that still works fine, but I suspect at some point the amp will fail. Thanks for the pictures. Replacing the amp doesn't look as intimidating as I would expect.

Is it really just 2 wires? A red and black like you would use for a normal speaker?
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Old 07-23-2019, 09:14 AM
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A thread was opened awhile back about converting an active sub to passive using an external amp. He used existing speaker inputs which an Empire doesn't have, but you could screw in binding posts or just connect the wires directly. There's not much to it really.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...t-passive.html
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Old 07-23-2019, 11:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dpc716 View Post
I would repair/replace the amp, especially if you use it for any music. You’re not going to find anything that sounds as good or fills the room as well for $300, or $600 for that matter. You’d have to up the budget a lot before you’re looking at something comparable.
Several websites have mentioned that each sub's internal amp is tuned to work with that sub. When replacing an amp panel with another brand, it might adversely impact the performance. Don't know how much of a difference this might cause and how easy it would be to fix.
Would something like SVS PB-2000 be close or comparable?

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Originally Posted by Juiced46 View Post
I ran into the same issue as you. I had 1 good Empire and bought a used one for a 2nd sub with a bad amp. After going round and round what to do. I ended up with an external amp. It was just the better decision vs the plate amp. I am glad I did since the control I have with the external is well worth it. Plus I added a 3rd Empire to my arsenal and having 3 is amazing.

If you decide to get rid of the Epik, I am looking for a 4th and would entertain buying it, the bad amp does not matter to me since I would run it off the external. Where are you located? If you are looking for SVS stuff. I also have an SVS SB12-NSD I will be selling. Let me know if you are interested.
Which amp did you use with your subs? The idea of using an internal amp is new to me, but I will like to look into that.
I have a feeling that an external amp would be more expensive than an amp panel?

Just curious, what would you offer for the sub?

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Originally Posted by KidHorn View Post
I have an empire that still works fine, but I suspect at some point the amp will fail. Thanks for the pictures. Replacing the amp doesn't look as intimidating as I would expect.

Is it really just 2 wires? A red and black like you would use for a normal speaker?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dpc716 View Post
A thread was opened awhile back about converting an active sub to passive using an external amp. He used existing speaker inputs which an Empire doesn't have, but you could screw in binding posts or just connect the wires directly. There's not much to it really.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...t-passive.html
Thank you for the link. I will check it out.
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Old 07-23-2019, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Vladyxa View Post
Several websites have mentioned that each sub's internal amp is tuned to work with that sub. When replacing an amp panel with another brand, it might adversely impact the performance. Don't know how much of a difference this might cause and how easy it would be to fix.


Would something like SVS PB-2000 be close or comparable?


.
That is quite true. Take a look at the testing performed for the Empire in the link below and the native response obtained in the "measurements" link. You'll notice three things-


1) a sharp drop off below 20 hz. That is to prevent unloading the drivers and would be your highest priority to address. That's why I mentioned the filter earlier.
2) a little hump in the low 20's - you could live without that
3) a natural response shape that is relatively flat - more flat than what you'd get with a sealed sub normally. Going to another amp might give you a more humped response, but that is something room eq (e.g.Audyssey) could address, or you could see if you can live with it.


A PB-2000 might give comparable output from 18-30 hz (probably a little less) but would be nowhere close for midbass.


https://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=50
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Old 07-23-2019, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Vladyxa View Post
Several



Which amp did you use with your subs? The idea of using an internal amp is new to me, but I will like to look into that.
I have a feeling that an external amp would be more expensive than an amp panel?

Just curious, what would you offer for the sub?
I went with a Behringer NX6000D external amp and love it. I am powering 4 Epik drivers off 1 channel and 2 more on the 2nd channel for now until I acquire 2 more drivers (1 more complete Empire enclosure). So right now I am running 6- 15" Epik drivers off of the amp. The adjust-ability on the Behringer is very nice. If you decide to keep the Epik and go external you wouldnt need the NX6000D for your setup since you are only powering 2 subs. You can go with something like a Behringer NX3000 which go for about $300.

I looked at the internal amps and they seem like a simple easy bolt in fix. However I wanted something that can power more which is why I went external. It was very simple to convert to external. I actually left the plate amps in the Empires, I removed 1 of the XLR connectors and put a Speakon connector in its place. It actually looks like it belongs there. Its nice now since I just have to run speaker wire to the sub and not sub cables. It makes it easier to move stuff around IMO for when need be.

As far as what to offer for the sub. To be honest, the last 2 Empires I bought, were very cheap. I am in CT, I drove to NY to pick up one with a bad amp and paid $200 for it. The other I got from a member on this site from California. He wanted $100 for it with a blown amp and for me to cover shipping. It came out to about $200 total shipped to get it from Cali to CT. I need 1 more Empire to make a total of 8 drivers and I will eventually make custom enclosures and totally remove them from the opposed firing boxes they are in now.
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Old 08-02-2019, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
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That is quite true. Take a look at the testing performed for the Empire in the link below and the native response obtained in the "measurements" link. You'll notice three things-


1) a sharp drop off below 20 hz. That is to prevent unloading the drivers and would be your highest priority to address. That's why I mentioned the filter earlier.
2) a little hump in the low 20's - you could live without that
3) a natural response shape that is relatively flat - more flat than what you'd get with a sealed sub normally. Going to another amp might give you a more humped response, but that is something room eq (e.g.Audyssey) could address, or you could see if you can live with it.


A PB-2000 might give comparable output from 18-30 hz (probably a little less) but would be nowhere close for midbass.


https://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=50
I spent quite a bit of time reading about SVS subs (although I am still pretty much ignorant on the graphs and hz.
Remembering how Epik sounded, it was perfect in so many ways - all bass levels were filing the room without sounding like a cheap boombox just trying to pump out bass. So, I've decided to test out PB-2000.

I got PB-2000 from SVS, it was their outlet model, which SVS claims is as good as a new sub.
Long story short, either I'm doing something wrong or what a disappointment... I can barely feel or hear any bass, and if I crank up the volume on the sub, it sounds like a cheap ears-hitting boombox, unable to fill the much smaller room (Epik was filling open floor ~ 1,100 sq. ft.).

Mid-bass on PB-2000... what mid-bass?

I'm now considering returning the SVS sub, and try to fix the Epik.

Is it just me or Epik sub was just so much better?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Juiced46 View Post
I went with a Behringer NX6000D external amp and love it. I am powering 4 Epik drivers off 1 channel and 2 more on the 2nd channel for now until I acquire 2 more drivers (1 more complete Empire enclosure). So right now I am running 6- 15" Epik drivers off of the amp. The adjust-ability on the Behringer is very nice. If you decide to keep the Epik and go external you wouldnt need the NX6000D for your setup since you are only powering 2 subs. You can go with something like a Behringer NX3000 which go for about $300.

I looked at the internal amps and they seem like a simple easy bolt in fix. However I wanted something that can power more which is why I went external. It was very simple to convert to external. I actually left the plate amps in the Empires, I removed 1 of the XLR connectors and put a Speakon connector in its place. It actually looks like it belongs there. Its nice now since I just have to run speaker wire to the sub and not sub cables. It makes it easier to move stuff around IMO for when need be.

As far as what to offer for the sub. To be honest, the last 2 Empires I bought, were very cheap. I am in CT, I drove to NY to pick up one with a bad amp and paid $200 for it. The other I got from a member on this site from California. He wanted $100 for it with a blown amp and for me to cover shipping. It came out to about $200 total shipped to get it from Cali to CT. I need 1 more Empire to make a total of 8 drivers and I will eventually make custom enclosures and totally remove them from the opposed firing boxes they are in now.
Thanks a lot! I think I might attempt to fix the sub. I've decided to give SVS PB-2000 a try (please see my other reply above), and was so disappointed in the way it sounds and fills the room, or doesn't fill the room I should say.

For the same price point (both $800) SVS PB-2000 doesn't deliver much comparing to Epik.
I will try to move it around the room before I decide to return it, but Epik might be just a much better sub worth keeping?
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Old 08-02-2019, 10:24 AM
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A sub with a single 12 inch driver can't really compete with one that has 2 15's for midbass.. Just asking too much. I've heard and owned a lot of subs in the last 25 years and I have not heard anything that sounds better than an Empire (though some have been as good).
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Old 08-02-2019, 12:49 PM
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I went with a Behringer NX6000D external amp and love it. I am powering 4 Epik drivers off 1 channel and 2 more on the 2nd channel for now until I acquire 2 more drivers (1 more complete Empire enclosure). So right now I am running 6- 15" Epik drivers off of the amp. The adjust-ability on the Behringer is very nice. If you decide to keep the Epik and go external you wouldnt need the NX6000D for your setup since you are only powering 2 subs. You can go with something like a Behringer NX3000 which go for about $300.

I looked at the internal amps and they seem like a simple easy bolt in fix. However I wanted something that can power more which is why I went external. It was very simple to convert to external. I actually left the plate amps in the Empires, I removed 1 of the XLR connectors and put a Speakon connector in its place. It actually looks like it belongs there. Its nice now since I just have to run speaker wire to the sub and not sub cables. It makes it easier to move stuff around IMO for when need be.

As far as what to offer for the sub. To be honest, the last 2 Empires I bought, were very cheap. I am in CT, I drove to NY to pick up one with a bad amp and paid $200 for it. The other I got from a member on this site from California. He wanted $100 for it with a blown amp and for me to cover shipping. It came out to about $200 total shipped to get it from Cali to CT. I need 1 more Empire to make a total of 8 drivers and I will eventually make custom enclosures and totally remove them from the opposed firing boxes they are in now.
the inuke 3000 is rated at 900 watts/channel into 4 ohms... is that PEAK power or RMS? The blown amp in my EPIK PEOENIX is 600 RMS 1500 peak I believe. I too REALLY love my PHOENIX ( I dad duel uuntill one amp failed) I really miss the deul EPIKs and would weally like to get the bad one up and running.
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Old 08-03-2019, 04:58 AM
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the inuke 3000 is rated at 900 watts/channel into 4 ohms... is that PEAK power or RMS? The blown amp in my EPIK PEOENIX is 600 RMS 1500 peak I believe. I too REALLY love my PHOENIX ( I dad duel uuntill one amp failed) I really miss the deul EPIKs and would weally like to get the bad one up and running.

These are the specs for the iNuke. The 900watts @ 4 ohms is PEAK

Specifications: • Output power (per channel, stereo): 315 watts RMS, 440 watts peak (8 ohms), 680 watts RMS, 880 watts peak (4 ohms), 1040 watts RMS, 1520 watts peak (2 ohms) • Output power (bridged mono): 1250 watts RMS, 1520 watts peak (8 ohms), 2050 watts RMS, 3000 watts
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Old 08-03-2019, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Vladyxa View Post

I'm now considering returning the SVS sub, and try to fix the Epik.

Is it just me or Epik sub was just so much better?



Thanks a lot! I think I might attempt to fix the sub. I've decided to give SVS PB-2000 a try (please see my other reply above), and was so disappointed in the way it sounds and fills the room, or doesn't fill the room I should say.

For the same price point (both $800) SVS PB-2000 doesn't deliver much comparing to Epik.
I will try to move it around the room before I decide to return it, but Epik might be just a much better sub worth keeping?
To be honest. I would stick with the Epik. Buy a a nice amp, like I mentioned, I prefer the external and enjoy it. You wont have to mess with buying and returning subs until you find one you like. I love my Behringer amp and feel the cost spent for me (you do not need the 6000 like I bought) was well worth it to drive my 3 Empires.
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Old 08-03-2019, 06:55 AM
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To be honest. I would stick with the Epik. Buy a a nice amp, like I mentioned, I prefer the external and enjoy it. You wont have to mess with buying and returning subs until you find one you like. I love my Behringer amp and feel the cost spent for me (you do not need the 6000 like I bought) was well worth it to drive my 3 Empires.
So is the NX3000 the new version of the INUKE?
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Old 08-03-2019, 07:09 AM - Thread Starter
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To be honest. I would stick with the Epik. Buy a a nice amp, like I mentioned, I prefer the external and enjoy it. You wont have to mess with buying and returning subs until you find one you like. I love my Behringer amp and feel the cost spent for me (you do not need the 6000 like I bought) was well worth it to drive my 3 Empires.
I looked at Behringer, and will probably get it. You're right, I don't need 6000, and 3000 should work really well. Between 3000 and 3000D, is D model for fine-tuning the amp? For few $ more might just go for NX3000D?

How did you connect the sub to the amp? Is this what I will need to do:
- cut the black and red wires going from the sub to amp.
- add few feet of wire so I can move the amp away from the sub with a self-sealing connector.
- put speaker plugs on the black and red wires.

Does that sound right, what are your recommendations?
Also, what is the wire gauge in the sub?

Many thanks for your continuous help!

Last edited by Vladyxa; 08-03-2019 at 07:15 AM.
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Old 08-03-2019, 07:31 AM
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So is the NX3000 the new version of the INUKE?
Yes it is the newer version. I personally like the look of the newer version over the iNuke.

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I looked at Behringer, and will probably get it. You're right, I don't need 6000, and 3000 should work really well. Between 3000 and 3000D, is D model for fine-tuning the amp? For few $ more might just go for NX3000D?

How did you connect the sub to the amp? Is this what I will need to do:
- cut the black and red wires going from the sub to amp.
- add few feet of wire so I can move the amp away from the sub. Can I just twist connecting wires and put electrical tape over it? There has to be a self-sealing connector, but I don't know what it might be called.
- put speaker plugs on the black and red wires.

Does that sound right, what are your recommendations?

Many thanks for your continuous help!
Go with the D. Having the extra adjust ability is well worth it. You can really dial in the low end of the Epiks and really make them come to life. After spending some time in the Behringer adjustment software, my Epiks went from Great to amazing. Also using the Behringer PC software to dial the amp in, you can do adjustments on the fly. So no need to adjust settings and then upload. The adjustment you make is instantaneous.

As far as connections. The back of the Behringer uses a SpeakOn connector. So you will need to get those. The speakon is a twist lock connector that uses regular speaker wire. They are really easy to use. From there, you just run the speaker wire directly to the sub. Unscrew the plate amp and cut the black and red wires from the amp as close as possible.

From there you have a few options.

-The cheap way. Drill a small hole in the Epik enclosure and just run the speaker wire out the back and seal it.
-Install a speaker wire quick connect on the back.
-or do what I did. I installed a Neutrik Speakon connector on the plate amp. The "LFE" and "Crossover" plug on the back of the Epik plate amp just unscrews. So I removed the LFE connector and installed the Neutrik plug into it. It is a direct fit to the bolt holes etc. No drilling, no nothing, just unscrew the LFE plug and screw in your Neutrik. From there, then you just put another SpeakOn connector to the speaker wires that are going to the sub and now you have a quick disconnect at the sub. Quick, simple and clean.

Here is a picture of what I did so you can get an idea.




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Old 08-03-2019, 07:43 AM
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Also, my amp stays with the rest of my AV equipment. The beauty is you just need to run speaker wire so its pretty easy. The Behringer stays cool even when driving it hard. I run one channel at 2 ohms and one at 4ohms and is always cool. The fans are a little loud, but not unbearable.



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Old 08-03-2019, 08:56 AM
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Yes it is the newer version. I personally like the look of the newer version over the iNuke.



Go with the D. Having the extra adjust ability is well worth it. You can really dial in the low end of the Epiks and really make them come to life. After spending some time in the Behringer adjustment software, my Epiks went from Great to amazing. Also using the Behringer PC software to dial the amp in, you can do adjustments on the fly. So no need to adjust settings and then upload. The adjustment you make is instantaneous.

As far as connections. The back of the Behringer uses a SpeakOn connector. So you will need to get those. The speakon is a twist lock connector that uses regular speaker wire. They are really easy to use. From there, you just run the speaker wire directly to the sub. Unscrew the plate amp and cut the black and red wires from the amp as close as possible.

From there you have a few options.

-The cheap way. Drill a small hole in the Epik enclosure and just run the speaker wire out the back and seal it.
-Install a speaker wire quick connect on the back.
-or do what I did. I installed a Neutrik Speakon connector on the plate amp. The "LFE" and "Crossover" plug on the back of the Epik plate amp just unscrews. So I removed the LFE connector and installed the Neutrik plug into it. It is a direct fit to the bolt holes etc. No drilling, no nothing, just unscrew the LFE plug and screw in your Neutrik. From there, then you just put another SpeakOn connector to the speaker wires that are going to the sub and now you have a quick disconnect at the sub. Quick, simple and clean.

Here is a picture of what I did so you can get an idea.




Ok ...so im thinking of getting the 3000dsp and converting BOTH my epiks to passive subs...

...since the one sub seems to be fine would you leave it alone or in the interest of being identical subs go ahead and convert it

Last edited by snookfisher; 08-03-2019 at 09:07 AM.
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Old 08-03-2019, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Juiced46 View Post
Yes it is the newer version. I personally like the look of the newer version over the iNuke.



Go with the D. Having the extra adjust ability is well worth it. You can really dial in the low end of the Epiks and really make them come to life. After spending some time in the Behringer adjustment software, my Epiks went from Great to amazing. Also using the Behringer PC software to dial the amp in, you can do adjustments on the fly. So no need to adjust settings and then upload. The adjustment you make is instantaneous.

As far as connections. The back of the Behringer uses a SpeakOn connector. So you will need to get those. The speakon is a twist lock connector that uses regular speaker wire. They are really easy to use. From there, you just run the speaker wire directly to the sub. Unscrew the plate amp and cut the black and red wires from the amp as close as possible.

From there you have a few options.

-The cheap way. Drill a small hole in the Epik enclosure and just run the speaker wire out the back and seal it.
-Install a speaker wire quick connect on the back.
-or do what I did. I installed a Neutrik Speakon connector on the plate amp. The "LFE" and "Crossover" plug on the back of the Epik plate amp just unscrews. So I removed the LFE connector and installed the Neutrik plug into it. It is a direct fit to the bolt holes etc. No drilling, no nothing, just unscrew the LFE plug and screw in your Neutrik. From there, then you just put another SpeakOn connector to the speaker wires that are going to the sub and now you have a quick disconnect at the sub. Quick, simple and clean.

Here is a picture of what I did so you can get an idea.




Ok ...so im thinking of getting the 3000dsp and converting BOTH my epiks to passive subs...

...since the one sub seems to be fine would you leave it alone or in the interest of being identical subs go ahead and convert it
Id convert it. Run it all off the Behringer. You need a Sub to XLR cable. Cheap to find online
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Old 08-04-2019, 08:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Juiced46 View Post
Yes it is the newer version. I personally like the look of the newer version over the iNuke.



Go with the D. Having the extra adjust ability is well worth it. You can really dial in the low end of the Epiks and really make them come to life. After spending some time in the Behringer adjustment software, my Epiks went from Great to amazing. Also using the Behringer PC software to dial the amp in, you can do adjustments on the fly. So no need to adjust settings and then upload. The adjustment you make is instantaneous.

As far as connections. The back of the Behringer uses a SpeakOn connector. So you will need to get those. The speakon is a twist lock connector that uses regular speaker wire. They are really easy to use. From there, you just run the speaker wire directly to the sub. Unscrew the plate amp and cut the black and red wires from the amp as close as possible.

From there you have a few options.

-The cheap way. Drill a small hole in the Epik enclosure and just run the speaker wire out the back and seal it.
-Install a speaker wire quick connect on the back.
-or do what I did. I installed a Neutrik Speakon connector on the plate amp. The "LFE" and "Crossover" plug on the back of the Epik plate amp just unscrews. So I removed the LFE connector and installed the Neutrik plug into it. It is a direct fit to the bolt holes etc. No drilling, no nothing, just unscrew the LFE plug and screw in your Neutrik. From there, then you just put another SpeakOn connector to the speaker wires that are going to the sub and now you have a quick disconnect at the sub. Quick, simple and clean.

Here is a picture of what I did so you can get an idea.




The puzzle starts coming together.
I like the way you did it with the connector on the plate amp. It seems that the last thing I need is the connection between my received (RCA) and the amp (Speakon).
Should I get RCA cable with Y-split, cut and replace red and white connectors with Speakon connector?

P.S.: great setup you got there, thank you for sharing pictures!
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Old 08-04-2019, 10:07 AM
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The puzzle starts coming together.
I like the way you did it with the connector on the plate amp. It seems that the last thing I need is the connection between my received (RCA) and the amp (Speakon).
Should I get RCA cable with Y-split, cut and replace red and white connectors with Speakon connector?

P.S.: great setup you got there, thank you for sharing pictures!
You will need an RCA to XLR adapter to connect the Receiver to the AMP. No cutting required.

From the AMP to the speakers you will just need a Speakon connector.

It goes like this.

RCA out of receiver > cable to convert RCA to XLR> connect XLR to INPUT of Amp. This gets the sub signal from the receiver to the AMP.

From there, its a Speakon connector out to the sub with speaker wire. At that point you can do what I did and add another speakon terminal at the back of the Epik.

All you need to make all of this work is an RCA to XLR cable like this-

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-XLR...gateway&sr=8-6


You will not have to cut any wires at all. Then you will need the SpeakOn connectors to go from Amp to sub.
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Old 08-04-2019, 06:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Juiced46 View Post
You will need an RCA to XLR adapter to connect the Receiver to the AMP. No cutting required.

From the AMP to the speakers you will just need a Speakon connector.

It goes like this.

RCA out of receiver > cable to convert RCA to XLR> connect XLR to INPUT of Amp. This gets the sub signal from the receiver to the AMP.

From there, its a Speakon connector out to the sub with speaker wire. At that point you can do what I did and add another speakon terminal at the back of the Epik.

All you need to make all of this work is an RCA to XLR cable like this-

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-XLR...gateway&sr=8-6


You will not have to cut any wires at all. Then you will need the SpeakOn connectors to go from Amp to sub.
I think I got it now. Did you have to solder wires to the Neutrik connector or screw them on?
It looks like most connectors have to be soldered, but Neutrik also mentions screw-on connectors.

Also, some connectors are 4 and some 8 poles. Assuming I don't need 8 poles, which poles I would use of 4 poles +-1 or +-2?
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Old 08-04-2019, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juiced46 View Post
You will need an RCA to XLR adapter to connect the Receiver to the AMP. No cutting required.

From the AMP to the speakers you will just need a Speakon connector.

It goes like this.

RCA out of receiver > cable to convert RCA to XLR> connect XLR to INPUT of Amp. This gets the sub signal from the receiver to the AMP.

From there, its a Speakon connector out to the sub with speaker wire. At that point you can do what I did and add another speakon terminal at the back of the Epik.

All you need to make all of this work is an RCA to XLR cable like this-

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-XLR...gateway&sr=8-6


You will not have to cut any wires at all. Then you will need the SpeakOn connectors to go from Amp to sub.
I think I got it now. Did you have to solder wires to the Neutrik connector or screw them on?
It looks like most connectors have to be soldered, but Neutrik also mentions screw-on connectors.

Also, some connectors are 4 and some 8 poles. Assuming I don't need 8 poles, which poles I would use of 4 poles +-1 or +-2?
Get the 4 pole screw on ones. No soldering needed at all. If running the speakers in parallel like they are wired now you would use 1+ and 1-
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Old 08-04-2019, 06:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Get the 4 pole screw on ones. No soldering needed at all. If running the speakers in parallel like they are wired now you would use 1+ and 1-
Many thanks!!!
Off to do some shopping now.
Thanks again!
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Old 08-05-2019, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juiced46 View Post
You will need an RCA to XLR adapter to connect the Receiver to the AMP. No cutting required.

From the AMP to the speakers you will just need a Speakon connector.

It goes like this.

RCA out of receiver > cable to convert RCA to XLR> connect XLR to INPUT of Amp. This gets the sub signal from the receiver to the AMP.

From there, its a Speakon connector out to the sub with speaker wire. At that point you can do what I did and add another speakon terminal at the back of the Epik.

All you need to make all of this work is an RCA to XLR cable like this-

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-XLR...gateway&sr=8-6


You will not have to cut any wires at all. Then you will need the SpeakOn connectors to go from Amp to sub.
I am just getting ready to pull the trigger … im wondering if the 3000 is enough juice to run duel PHOENIX's .. The RMS is right (the important one.) But the PEAK isn't as high as the original amp.. thoughts?
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Old 08-05-2019, 04:18 PM
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I am just getting ready to pull the trigger … im wondering if the 3000 is enough juice to run duel PHOENIX's .. The RMS is right (the important one.) But the PEAK isn't as high as the original amp.. thoughts?
You can always run it in Bridge mode
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Old 08-06-2019, 06:08 AM
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You can always run it in Bridge mode
Then I would need 2 of them..in which case im looking at almost the cost of a new sub
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