REW subwoofer alignment Video using MiniDSP complete walk through! - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 140 Old 10-22-2019, 03:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 02slowride View Post
cdy2179, Thanks for pulling this and your other tuning how-to videos together. Over the course of this year, had made multiple attempts to tune my subs with miniDSP 2x4 HD with mixed results. This past weekend, after reviewing your Episode 7 I have my best results to date. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. Well Done!
Awesome! Good to know I didn't confuse you too much..
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post #32 of 140 Old 10-22-2019, 03:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mark Seaton View Post
This is basically the next step of the subwoofer optimization after you get the subs working together well at the listening position. This is also one aspect where having a single subwoofer output to the external EQ makes adjustment much easier, as you can work with a single distance/delay setting. Of course after you set this up, remember that if in listening you decide to apply significant gain to the subwoofer (nothing wrong with that if it sounds appropriate), you want to come back and double check the crossover integration as the relative levels through the crossover can change significantly.

Several years ago It was Your walk through posts that guided me through this.

Mark is one of the few people that when he talks I take notes! Thanks for everything you've done for us. Even the guys here have you and others than I learned from to thank even if they don't realize it.
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post #33 of 140 Old 10-23-2019, 01:04 PM
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Hi there. I originally posted this in the same topic. But I moved her because it's more active and likely has more audience.

I had a few questions after watching all your videos. Specifically the order and process of doing things. I am more than willing to pay for your time to answer these questions if this is beyond what you'd answer in a forum post.

I have a room where the only place I can put subs are far right corner (where I have a mini-marty ported to 20Hz) and nearfield behind the couch. I have two cabinets sealed behind the couch with two 12" drivers each. The nearfields are wired together for a 4ohm load to one channel of my iNuke 6000 (actually NX6000D) and the marty is on the other channel. My Denon AVR can control both LFE channels independently.

Since I am completed limited to sub placement along the back wall, does the android RTA replacement for room crawl even matter? I guess I do wonder how import the position of the drivers are. The marty's baffle and port is currently facing directly into the back corner. I guess I could rotate it in any direction. Would facing out into the room be better? Would RTA tell me this? Same with the nearfields. I can put the baffle facing right into the couch (which is 18" from back wall) or turn them around facing the wall. I can move the two near fields about anywhere across the back wall. So either both behind the coach or one in the middle and one in back left corner.

Once I have this figured out I know I move on to gains for each sub channel. I understand how this works from your video and have no problem moving the subs into the middle of the room (in exact same position) to determine gain levels for each channel. But since I have 2 subs wired to the same iNuke channel, would I place them on top of each other for this measurement?

Once this is done, I move on to Rew. You state that Audessey should be turned off. Since I already ran it before, do I just wipe out all trim and distance measurements back to zero?

I also wasn't clear if Dynamic EQ should be turned on or off when running REW?

And then do I want to use the same EQ curve you use in your video where you're fairly flat from 20 – 33 Hz and then slowly drop down to 80Hz with about a 15db drop from 30 - 80? Or is this only if I don’t have Dynamic EQ, which I do.

Lastly, you state I can bypass the ASIO4ALL drivers by setting my crossovers as high as I can. I was confused as to which crossover? LFE? Or after setting speakers to small move all the 5 channels to as high as they go?

Thank you very much.

Audio: Denon AVR-X3400H - Behringer NX6000D - miniDSP
Speakers: LCR: DIYSoundGroup Cobalt 8s | Surrounds: NHT SuperOnes | Atmos: Boston Acoustic SoundWare | Subs: Marty cube w/ Ultimax UM18 and (4) JBL CS1214s
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post #34 of 140 Old 10-23-2019, 03:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ghart999 View Post
Hi there. I originally posted this in the same topic. But I moved her because it's more active and likely has more audience.

I had a few questions after watching all your videos. Specifically the order and process of doing things. I am more than willing to pay for your time to answer these questions if this is beyond what you'd answer in a forum post.

I have a room where the only place I can put subs are far right corner (where I have a mini-marty ported to 20Hz) and nearfield behind the couch. I have two cabinets sealed behind the couch with two 12" drivers each. The nearfields are wired together for a 4ohm load to one channel of my iNuke 6000 (actually NX6000D) and the marty is on the other channel. My Denon AVR can control both LFE channels independently.

Since I am completed limited to sub placement along the back wall, does the android RTA replacement for room crawl even matter? I guess I do wonder how import the position of the drivers are. The marty's baffle and port is currently facing directly into the back corner. I guess I could rotate it in any direction. Would facing out into the room be better? Would RTA tell me this? Same with the nearfields. I can put the baffle facing right into the couch (which is 18" from back wall) or turn them around facing the wall. I can move the two near fields about anywhere across the back wall. So either both behind the coach or one in the middle and one in back left corner.

The RTA will tell you if you have any nulls or dips that need fixing. When you turn a sub all you're doing is changing it's location in the room and nothing more. You can't "aim" a sub as the waves are so large they just pressurize the room.
The baffle is where the sound is produced so when you spin a sub you're acoustically moving it in the room.



Once I have this figured out I know I move on to gains for each sub channel. I understand how this works from your video and have no problem moving the subs into the middle of the room (in exact same position) to determine gain levels for each channel. But since I have 2 subs wired to the same iNuke channel, would I place them on top of each other for this measurement?

The two 12s are usually treated as individual subs but wired like you have them and considering they're two sealed 12s asked to play with a marty sub I'd maybe stack them and set the gain to equal the Marty.

Once this is done, I move on to Rew. You state that Audessey should be turned off. Since I already ran it before, do I just wipe out all trim and distance measurements back to zero?

Just go into the AVR and turn off audyssey. Nothing more needs to be done other than raising the crossover point to allow for sub sweeps

I also wasn't clear if Dynamic EQ should be turned on or off when running REW?

When you turn Audyssey off dynamic EQ will be turned off automatically.

And then do I want to use the same EQ curve you use in your video where you're fairly flat from 20 – 33 Hz and then slowly drop down to 80Hz with about a 15db drop from 30 - 80? Or is this only if I don’t have Dynamic EQ, which I do.

When using dynamic EQ which I recommend you'll use a flat target in the REW EQ screen. The manual house curve is only when not using Audyssey or similar auto room correction EQ.

Lastly, you state I can bypass the ASIO4ALL drivers by setting my crossovers as high as I can. I was confused as to which crossover? LFE? Or after setting speakers to small move all the 5 channels to as high as they go?

Set mains to small and set the crossover for the mains as high as it'll go. Usually 250hz. LFE LPF only affects the LFE channel, we are sweeping one of the mains which is being routed to the sub via bass management.

Thank you very much.

You're welcome!
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post #35 of 140 Old 10-23-2019, 04:00 PM
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Edit: never mind I found that you already addressed this earliest in the thread. Apologies.

Thank you so much. One more question. Without relistening to the 90 min video, did you say I should only use one LFE output to the iNuke and then use the DSP to control phase and delay for each output instead of Audessey?

Audio: Denon AVR-X3400H - Behringer NX6000D - miniDSP
Speakers: LCR: DIYSoundGroup Cobalt 8s | Surrounds: NHT SuperOnes | Atmos: Boston Acoustic SoundWare | Subs: Marty cube w/ Ultimax UM18 and (4) JBL CS1214s
Automation: Fire Cube - Harmony Hub- Insteon Plugs - Sensi Thermostat
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Last edited by ghart999; 10-23-2019 at 04:32 PM. Reason: found answer elsewhere
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post #36 of 140 Old 10-24-2019, 05:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ghart999 View Post
Edit: never mind I found that you already addressed this earliest in the thread. Apologies.

Thank you so much. One more question. Without relistening to the 90 min video, did you say I should only use one LFE output to the iNuke and then use the DSP to control phase and delay for each output instead of Audessey?
Yes only use one AVR sub out. This way only you can mess with the alignment. The AVR will see one sub.
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post #37 of 140 Old 10-24-2019, 09:01 AM
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Thank you again. Sorry for the questions.

When running sweeps, what do I set the AVR to? Stereo or full surround? If stereo, I can’t get my subs to play unless I allow LFE + Main. This one has always baffled me. I have XT32 if that matters.

Once REW is done, I run Audssey. But what about the subwoofer distance it sets? Do I leave alone or wipe this out and rely completely on what iNuke DSP set?
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Audio: Denon AVR-X3400H - Behringer NX6000D - miniDSP
Speakers: LCR: DIYSoundGroup Cobalt 8s | Surrounds: NHT SuperOnes | Atmos: Boston Acoustic SoundWare | Subs: Marty cube w/ Ultimax UM18 and (4) JBL CS1214s
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post #38 of 140 Old 10-24-2019, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ghart999 View Post
TIf stereo, I can’t get my subs to play unless I allow LFE + Main. This one has always baffled me.
Are all speakers set to "Small"?
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post #39 of 140 Old 10-24-2019, 12:18 PM
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Are all speakers set to "Small"?
They are. Fronts crossed at 120. I don't get it. I have a Denon 3400H for what it's worth.

Audio: Denon AVR-X3400H - Behringer NX6000D - miniDSP
Speakers: LCR: DIYSoundGroup Cobalt 8s | Surrounds: NHT SuperOnes | Atmos: Boston Acoustic SoundWare | Subs: Marty cube w/ Ultimax UM18 and (4) JBL CS1214s
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post #40 of 140 Old 10-24-2019, 12:47 PM
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They are. Fronts crossed at 120. I don't get it. I have a Denon 3400H for what it's worth.
Hmmm...listening in Stereo, not Direct or Pure, right?
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post #41 of 140 Old 10-24-2019, 12:49 PM
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yup. But if I play as surround, the sub kicks on. All speakers are set to small.

Audio: Denon AVR-X3400H - Behringer NX6000D - miniDSP
Speakers: LCR: DIYSoundGroup Cobalt 8s | Surrounds: NHT SuperOnes | Atmos: Boston Acoustic SoundWare | Subs: Marty cube w/ Ultimax UM18 and (4) JBL CS1214s
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post #42 of 140 Old 10-24-2019, 12:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ghart999 View Post
They are. Fronts crossed at 120. I don't get it. I have a Denon 3400H for what it's worth.
mains set to small and bump the crossover up to 250hz (I think that's the max in your AVR). Once that's done and you go back into REW it will sweep which ever main you tell it to on the screen that pops up when you hit measure. It'll let you sweep both or either the Left or Right main. Anything below 250 will be crossed over to the sub for REW analysis.
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post #43 of 140 Old 10-28-2019, 12:54 PM
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Question about the positive sum mation measurement...

Yesterday I was trying to align 2 subs for my brother-in-law, and measured difference in distance from the listening position to each sub was only about a 1 foot. So I added 1 millisecond of delay the closet sub and the summed response got better but it was still not positive across the entire subwoofer frequency range. I added more and beyond 3 millisecond it looked like it was getting worse in some areas, particularly below 30Hz. When I reduced the daley back to 1.56 millisecond the low end summation improved, but the summation around the 70-90Hz range was never clearly above the to individual measurements. I also tried inverting the second sub it, but that yielded worse results in the 20 to 30 Hz range. Just wondering how far in excess of what the ruler measures should we consider going, and at what point would it not make sense anymore?
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post #44 of 140 Old 10-28-2019, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by welldun View Post
Question about the positive sum mation measurement...

Yesterday I was trying to align 2 subs for my brother-in-law, and measured difference in distance from the listening position to each sub was only about a 1 foot. So I added 1 millisecond of delay the closet sub and the summed response got better but it was still not positive across the entire subwoofer frequency range. I added more and beyond 3 millisecond it looked like it was getting worse in some areas, particularly below 30Hz. When I reduced the daley back to 1.56 millisecond the low end summation improved, but the summation around the 70-90Hz range was never clearly above the to individual measurements. I also tried inverting the second sub it, but that yielded worse results in the 20 to 30 Hz range. Just wondering how far in excess of what the ruler measures should we consider going, and at what point would it not make sense anymore?
When you inverted, did you reset the delay to "0"? May or may not make a difference since you were dealing with a small delay.

Were you measuring subs only (LFE) from REW? Make sure there isn't a speaker active when performing sub alignment.

Depending on the room, the number of subs and the placement of the subs, positive summation across the entire bandwidth just may not be possible. Have you tried different placements, ones that compliment each other when measured individually?
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post #45 of 140 Old 10-28-2019, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
When you inverted, did you reset the delay to "0"? May or may not make a difference since you were dealing with a small delay.

Were you measuring subs only (LFE) from REW? Make sure there isn't a speaker active when performing sub alignment.

Depending on the room, the number of subs and the placement of the subs, positive summation across the entire bandwidth just may not be possible. Have you tried different placements, ones that compliment each other when measured individually?
Yes, I reset the delay and also played around with and without delay in both normal and inverted mode. I also moved the subs around the room to get the best individual output from each before aligning them. Overall the best results at the MLP were with both subs set to normal with 1.56 milliseconds of delay to the second sub.
I'm sure the room is adding to the issue since the only full wall is the front wall. The rest of the walls are partial and open up to bigger spaces. The front wall extends on the left into a bar area with the A.V. rack there also. the back wall is open on the left, and the right side-wall is non-existent in the middle section. Here is a rough sketch to aid with visuals. The dash lines represent future soundproof curtains that will be hung in order to form some boundaries.

S1 and S2 are the positions of the two subs. They are a pair of Monoprice Monolith 10 THX Select.
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post #46 of 140 Old 10-28-2019, 04:47 PM
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Yes, I reset the delay and also played around with and without delay in both normal and inverted mode. I also moved the subs around the room to get the best individual output from each before aligning them. Overall the best results at the MLP were with both subs set to normal with 1.56 milliseconds of delay to the second sub.
I'm sure the room is adding to the issue since the only full wall is the front wall. The rest of the walls are partial and open up to bigger spaces. The front wall extends on the left into a bar area with the A.V. rack there also. the back wall is open on the left, and the right side-wall is non-existent in the middle section. Here is a rough sketch to aid with visuals. The dash lines represent future soundproof curtains that will be hung in order to form some boundaries.

S1 and S2 are the positions of the two subs. They are a pair of Monoprice Monolith 10 THX Select.
Hopefully @cdy2179 can comment as well, but that summation looks about like I would expect considering your open floor plan, you gained at least 3-5dB over most of the range (even more if you consider the front sub response!). Did you gain match the subs prior to aligning them?

Just an FYI, sub graphs should be posted with 5dB increments. Also FYI, (and you may already know this, but...) "soundproof" curtains will neither contain nor improve the bass one iota.
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post #47 of 140 Old 10-28-2019, 06:26 PM
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This is awesome. I’ve been putting off getting a Minidsp and REW because of the learning curve but now I think I’m ready to proceed. Great job.
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post #48 of 140 Old 10-30-2019, 06:09 AM - Thread Starter
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This is awesome. I’ve been putting off getting a Minidsp and REW because of the learning curve but now I think I’m ready to proceed. Great job.
Thanks! Hope it makes it much easier for you.
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post #49 of 140 Old 10-30-2019, 06:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, I reset the delay and also played around with and without delay in both normal and inverted mode. I also moved the subs around the room to get the best individual output from each before aligning them. Overall the best results at the MLP were with both subs set to normal with 1.56 milliseconds of delay to the second sub.
I'm sure the room is adding to the issue since the only full wall is the front wall. The rest of the walls are partial and open up to bigger spaces. The front wall extends on the left into a bar area with the A.V. rack there also. the back wall is open on the left, and the right side-wall is non-existent in the middle section. Here is a rough sketch to aid with visuals. The dash lines represent future soundproof curtains that will be hung in order to form some boundaries.

S1 and S2 are the positions of the two subs. They are a pair of Monoprice Monolith 10 THX Select.
I'd probably try and find a better place for one of the subs to help fix that issue at 70hz or simply move the seats a tad. The video on room mode calculations and seating may help as you should be able to use it for distance back as the front and rear wall are parallel. Or you can simply measure a foot forward and backwards and see what's going on. You'll be crossing over to speakers around that area so I wouldn't want a dip around there if you can fix it.
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post #50 of 140 Old 10-31-2019, 08:58 PM
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Thanks for positing the video and starting the series; I'm looking forward to future installments. The video was straight to the point, and you laid out a very quick strategy to get some really nice responses. After just a few tests, it was easy to start flying through individual adjustments.

When measuring your first two subs, you started with the front left and then went to rear right. Was there a specific strategy behind this? I'm guessing that their the furthest subs from each other, and you were looking for contrast, and also to see if flipping the phase was going to have the desired effect. But by the end of the exercise, would it have made any difference in what order each sub was added?

When setting up multiple subs in the past, I spent a lot of time trying to multiple cuts to each sub in order to try and get a smooth curve, but it's a time-consuming process, with lots of trials, and even more errors. Have you tried to do any of that yourself? Just wondering if you've found any shortcuts that might be worth trying.

Scott

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post #51 of 140 Old 11-01-2019, 05:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for positing the video and starting the series; I'm looking forward to future installments. The video was straight to the point, and you laid out a very quick strategy to get some really nice responses. After just a few tests, it was easy to start flying through individual adjustments.

When measuring your first two subs, you started with the front left and then went to rear right. Was there a specific strategy behind this? I'm guessing that their the furthest subs from each other, and you were looking for contrast, and also to see if flipping the phase was going to have the desired effect. But by the end of the exercise, would it have made any difference in what order each sub was added?

When setting up multiple subs in the past, I spent a lot of time trying to multiple cuts to each sub in order to try and get a smooth curve, but it's a time-consuming process, with lots of trials, and even more errors. Have you tried to do any of that yourself? Just wondering if you've found any shortcuts that might be worth trying.

Scott
I did the front and rear subs first to just walk everyone through aligning some subs knowing that I would need delay there and show the "hunting" process. Normally you'd do as I do after that when I align them before EQ. Farthest sub is sub one then start adding subs to the group. If the farthest subs are equidistant you'll just makes sure they have positive summation and keep on rolling with adding sub 3.

As for EQ'ing individual subs. We aren't wanting to have each subs response flat and shouldn't care if each subs response is flat. The subs in room will naturally have peaks and dips and we want to place them based on that and then simply align for most positive summation at the seats. Then we can simply load and REW EQ file globally which as you see in the video EQ takes just a few minutes and really less than a minute if you're quick. If you EQ'd each sub individually you'd have some subs working much harder than others.
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post #52 of 140 Old 11-01-2019, 11:35 AM
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Hmmm...listening in Stereo, not Direct or Pure, right?
There was an issue. Someone recommended a factory reset, which fixed the issue.
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Audio: Denon AVR-X3400H - Behringer NX6000D - miniDSP
Speakers: LCR: DIYSoundGroup Cobalt 8s | Surrounds: NHT SuperOnes | Atmos: Boston Acoustic SoundWare | Subs: Marty cube w/ Ultimax UM18 and (4) JBL CS1214s
Automation: Fire Cube - Harmony Hub- Insteon Plugs - Sensi Thermostat
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post #53 of 140 Old 11-01-2019, 11:44 AM
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I just added some nearfield subs directly behind the coach. Since they literally make the couch shake, my wife hates it unless we're watching a movie. The other sub (a Marty Cube) is far enough a way that it doesn't bug her when just watching TV. Per your video, you recommend using a single LFE out from AVR into the DSP and then splitting out to the multiple subs. My one concern is both subs are now matched. So I feel the rumble in the couch even when watching football. Ideally I could turn down the nearfield during these times and only enable for movies. But with a single output from AVR, this wuold not be possible without manually changing the gain on the Behringer NX6000D.

But using both LFE outs on the AVR (Denon X3400H) would let me control this from the remote. Based on this, what would I be losing out on by using both LEF outs on my AVR?

Thank you.

Audio: Denon AVR-X3400H - Behringer NX6000D - miniDSP
Speakers: LCR: DIYSoundGroup Cobalt 8s | Surrounds: NHT SuperOnes | Atmos: Boston Acoustic SoundWare | Subs: Marty cube w/ Ultimax UM18 and (4) JBL CS1214s
Automation: Fire Cube - Harmony Hub- Insteon Plugs - Sensi Thermostat
Video Image: TCL 55r625 - Roku - nVidia Shield Pro 2019 - Xbox One X
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post #54 of 140 Old 11-01-2019, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ghart999 View Post
I just added some nearfield subs directly behind the coach. Since they literally make the couch shake, my wife hates it unless we're watching a movie. The other sub (a Marty Cube) is far enough a way that it doesn't bug her when just watching TV. Per your video, you recommend using a single LFE out from AVR into the DSP and then splitting out to the multiple subs. My one concern is both subs are now matched. So I feel the rumble in the couch even when watching football. Ideally I could turn down the nearfield during these times and only enable for movies. But with a single output from AVR, this wuold not be possible without manually changing the gain on the Behringer NX6000D.

But using both LFE outs on the AVR (Denon X3400H) would let me control this from the remote. Based on this, what would I be losing out on by using both LEF outs on my AVR?

Thank you.
You can get a remote for the MiniDSP (or teach it to use literally any IR remote) and it will let you change configs with a single button press. You can also do this with the MiniDSP app. Set up one config for full-on "Movie Mode" and another for "Laid-back TV Watching Mode" and you're all set.

As an aside; if you are feeling an over-abundance of rumbles during football, you may have your NF sub turned up a bit to high. Also, if you are using different inputs on the AVR for movies vs TV, you could try changing some of the settings for the TV input (if you are using DEQ, set the RLO down to -15, if you have LFC on your AVR, turn that on, turn Subwoofer Adjust down for that input, etc.).
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post #55 of 140 Old 11-01-2019, 12:37 PM
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No MiniDSP me for. I have the Behinger NX6000D with the built in DSP. Thus, not remote.

But your second suggestion sounds really good. I never use my TV input for anything requiring bass. Thanks.

Audio: Denon AVR-X3400H - Behringer NX6000D - miniDSP
Speakers: LCR: DIYSoundGroup Cobalt 8s | Surrounds: NHT SuperOnes | Atmos: Boston Acoustic SoundWare | Subs: Marty cube w/ Ultimax UM18 and (4) JBL CS1214s
Automation: Fire Cube - Harmony Hub- Insteon Plugs - Sensi Thermostat
Video Image: TCL 55r625 - Roku - nVidia Shield Pro 2019 - Xbox One X
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post #56 of 140 Old 11-01-2019, 12:49 PM
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No MiniDSP me for. I have the Behinger NX6000D with the built in DSP. Thus, not remote.
I guess since you said "you recommend using a single LFE out from AVR into the DSP and then splitting out to the multiple subs.", I assumed you were considering getting one.


Quote:
But your second suggestion sounds really good. I never use my TV input for anything requiring bass. Thanks.
You're welcome. Let us know how it goes!
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post #57 of 140 Old 11-01-2019, 09:44 PM
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I did the front and rear subs first to just walk everyone through aligning some subs knowing that I would need delay there and show the "hunting" process. Normally you'd do as I do after that when I align them before EQ. Farthest sub is sub one then start adding subs to the group. If the farthest subs are equidistant you'll just makes sure they have positive summation and keep on rolling with adding sub 3.
OK, that makes sense.

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As for EQ'ing individual subs. We aren't wanting to have each subs response flat and shouldn't care if each subs response is flat. The subs in room will naturally have peaks and dips and we want to place them based on that and then simply align for most positive summation at the seats. Then we can simply load and REW EQ file globally which as you see in the video EQ takes just a few minutes and really less than a minute if you're quick. If you EQ'd each sub individually you'd have some subs working much harder than others.
I'm sorry, I didn't make it clear what I meant in my earlier post.

I didn't mean to equalize each sub so that they're individually as flat as possible, but to equalize each sub differently (mostly using cuts, and only minimal gains), so that the net result of all four is flat. So, let's say you cut just sub one by 5 dB at 40 Hz, but sub two might not have any cut at 40, but perhaps a 10 dB cut at 70 Hz, and so on. This would be much more time-consuming since it's trial and error (speaking from personal experience), but could maybe provide an even flatter overall response.

It's hard to argue with the results you got in the video, though, and that process is much faster.

Scott

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post #58 of 140 Old 11-02-2019, 08:45 AM
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No MiniDSP me for. I have the Behinger NX6000D with the built in DSP. Thus, not remote.
Here's a trick I use...simply place a PC next to your NX6000D and plug it in via USB, doesn't have to be powerful at all, I use a laptop. Install the Behringer software on that PC. Then simply remote desktop into that PC using another laptop or even a phone, which will allow you to change settings from wherever you are. I leave the laptop I have connected up all the time as it's also my Plex server. I use the basic windows remote desktop, but you could also use Chrome Remote Desktop.

I use this method for controlling my MiniDSP as well as my Behringer DSP amp from wherever I want and didn't have to purchase the WiFi adapter for it. Works great!

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post #59 of 140 Old 11-02-2019, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by luv2fly3 View Post
Here's a trick I use...simply place a PC next to your NX6000D and plug it in via USB, doesn't have to be powerful at all, I use a laptop. Install the Behringer software on that PC. Then simply remote desktop into that PC using another laptop or even a phone, which will allow you to change settings from wherever you are. I leave the laptop I have connected up all the time as it's also my Plex server. I use the basic windows remote desktop, but you could also use Chrome Remote Desktop.

I use this method for controlling my MiniDSP as well as my Behringer DSP amp from wherever I want and didn't have to purchase the WiFi adapter for it. Works great!
Nice idea. However, I do not have a 2nd laptop I could use. What's this Wi-fi adapter you mention?

Audio: Denon AVR-X3400H - Behringer NX6000D - miniDSP
Speakers: LCR: DIYSoundGroup Cobalt 8s | Surrounds: NHT SuperOnes | Atmos: Boston Acoustic SoundWare | Subs: Marty cube w/ Ultimax UM18 and (4) JBL CS1214s
Automation: Fire Cube - Harmony Hub- Insteon Plugs - Sensi Thermostat
Video Image: TCL 55r625 - Roku - nVidia Shield Pro 2019 - Xbox One X
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post #60 of 140 Old 11-02-2019, 02:02 PM
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Yes only use one AVR sub out. This way only you can mess with the alignment. The AVR will see one sub.
I mentioned above in this thread that being able to control the output of each sub is very helpful to me since I have four 12's nearfield and they sometimes rumble too much during regular TV. The 18" is not an issue. So I am thinking that I would really like to use both Sub outs from the AVR so I can control the level. I have a NX6000D, so no way to remotely control like the miniDSP can.

With that being said, what things would I need to consider when using both sub outs into the Behringer DSP? Thank you so much.

Audio: Denon AVR-X3400H - Behringer NX6000D - miniDSP
Speakers: LCR: DIYSoundGroup Cobalt 8s | Surrounds: NHT SuperOnes | Atmos: Boston Acoustic SoundWare | Subs: Marty cube w/ Ultimax UM18 and (4) JBL CS1214s
Automation: Fire Cube - Harmony Hub- Insteon Plugs - Sensi Thermostat
Video Image: TCL 55r625 - Roku - nVidia Shield Pro 2019 - Xbox One X
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