Better Bass if possible for Large Living room HT - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 9 Old 12-13-2019, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Question Better Bass if possible for Large Living room HT

1. Budget: Can be whatever it needs to be, $2,000 is the sweet spot, but I'm not purchasing if it can't make a real difference.

2. Size Constraints: No more than 30" on shortest of length/width. Have a corner with stonework that comes out 30". Height doesn't matter and the other of the length/width I have 48" to work with. Single sub only or wife will kill me.

3. Room dimensions: Gigantic. The "room" it is in is 20'x16'x11', but opens nearly fully into the kitchen, dining room and entry area. I don't think this room can be pressurized in any real way. This is my main is there a point question.

4. Usage: 90% TV/Movies, 10% Music

5. Listening habits: Medium Volume, just want quality and something of a home theater feel with more body bass than I'm currently getting. I know it can't be perfect in this poor environment.

6. Appearance requirements: Really prefer a cylinder like it's replacing or piano gloss box that matches my Polk LSiM 705 towers it sits next to and 706 center.

7. Timeframe: Now to 6 months

More Details: Currently use a SVS PC-2000. Worked really well in the old house where the living room was largish, but not open. In this giant open room I get some rattling which actually annoys the wife and wakes up whoever is in the room on the wall it's touching. But no base through the floor or body it's just lost into the void.

I'm considering a PB-4000 or PB16-Ultra. I'd like to know if the 2.5 year older and more expensive Ultra is worth it for it's much larger driver, or the PB-4000 has enough trickle down technology for the $500 savings to be worth it. I also want to know if either is likely to give noticeably stronger bass especially at the low end where I feel the PC-2000 loses all it's power or if the room is just too large for anything to help. I also got wife acceptance on the large black box, but if all it does is rattle the walls and windows it's not helping the problem. Moving from Polk Monitor70's to the LSiM 705/706 helped a lot with dialog quality and total sound, but even putting them in large mode and letting them take some of the bass as suggested by SVS, doesn't really even begin to fill the room. Let me know my options and your thoughts. Thanks for the help!!
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post #2 of 9 Old 12-13-2019, 10:20 AM
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Just to check, the bass is lacking everywhere and not just at your seating position?
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post #3 of 9 Old 12-13-2019, 11:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes all seating positions and really nothing through the floor or body just from it’s origin point. Limited on other spots to place. But really just shakes the wall it’s on and some light rattles nearby and some feel of bass especially in the mid to upper low end.
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post #4 of 9 Old 12-13-2019, 12:49 PM
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For that size room, 90% HT/TV use, and you only want one sub I would highly suggest you take a look at the PSA TV3612 or TV36 ipal. They are phenomenal subs that uses pro audio drivers that delivers great ULF and awesome mid bass. I have the TV36 ipal in my living room which only has three walls and open to the rest of the house. It simply fills my room with clean, tight bass.

One more item of note. In the past few years I also had an SVS PC Ultra (the original SVS cylinder sub), an SVS SB16 Ultra and a JTR 2400. Like you, my PC Ultra worked fine in my old house. However, in the new house on a concrete floor and much more open floor plan I just couldn't get the bass I had in the old house. I then tried the other two subs mentioned until I finally ended up with a TV36 ipal. The JTR was good, but the TV36 was better. It is by far the best sub I have ever owned.

Edit: forgot to mention that PSA subs include a "room size" control on the amp. This allows you to adjust the output of the lowest frequency of the sub. So if you are getting too much low frequency room rattle, you can lower the output to suit your needs.

Last edited by Dave Ol; 12-13-2019 at 02:17 PM.
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post #5 of 9 Old 12-13-2019, 01:05 PM
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If you are going SVS I would go PB16. I'm running dual PB-4000 in a 20x21x8 but no opening to another room. I could probably get by with one PB-4000 but would be running it a bit hotter than I would like.

I'm also on concrete and neither sub is in a corner and about two feet from the wall.

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post #6 of 9 Old 12-13-2019, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam61 View Post
1. Budget: Can be whatever it needs to be, $2,000 is the sweet spot, but I'm not purchasing if it can't make a real difference.

2. Size Constraints: No more than 30" on shortest of length/width. Have a corner with stonework that comes out 30". Height doesn't matter and the other of the length/width I have 48" to work with. Single sub only or wife will kill me.

3. Room dimensions: Gigantic. The "room" it is in is 20'x16'x11', but opens nearly fully into the kitchen, dining room and entry area. I don't think this room can be pressurized in any real way. This is my main is there a point question.

4. Usage: 90% TV/Movies, 10% Music

5. Listening habits: Medium Volume, just want quality and something of a home theater feel with more body bass than I'm currently getting. I know it can't be perfect in this poor environment.

6. Appearance requirements: Really prefer a cylinder like it's replacing or piano gloss box that matches my Polk LSiM 705 towers it sits next to and 706 center.

7. Timeframe: Now to 6 months

More Details: Currently use a SVS PC-2000. Worked really well in the old house where the living room was largish, but not open. In this giant open room I get some rattling which actually annoys the wife and wakes up whoever is in the room on the wall it's touching. But no base through the floor or body it's just lost into the void.

I'm considering a PB-4000 or PB16-Ultra. I'd like to know if the 2.5 year older and more expensive Ultra is worth it for it's much larger driver, or the PB-4000 has enough trickle down technology for the $500 savings to be worth it. I also want to know if either is likely to give noticeably stronger bass especially at the low end where I feel the PC-2000 loses all it's power or if the room is just too large for anything to help. I also got wife acceptance on the large black box, but if all it does is rattle the walls and windows it's not helping the problem. Moving from Polk Monitor70's to the LSiM 705/706 helped a lot with dialog quality and total sound, but even putting them in large mode and letting them take some of the bass as suggested by SVS, doesn't really even begin to fill the room. Let me know my options and your thoughts. Thanks for the help!!
Try the PC4000 then.

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post #7 of 9 Old 12-13-2019, 03:38 PM
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Throw SVS out the Window!!!! You need to move up to some big boy subs to fill that room...JTR's are widely known for the power and room filling bass , but your size constraints may limit them..Not quite sure...As they have said before the TV36Ipal would be a good starting point for you...Rythmik also has the G28 or something like that coming out soon that should also be very competitive with the TV36 and Cap2400s/4000's....Anything SVS offers is not in the same category as those subs and will leave you underwhelmed in that large room...
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post #8 of 9 Old 12-13-2019, 03:48 PM
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You need to chase down those rattles and fix them first. Earthquake putty under nicknacks should help. The real problem is if stuff inside the wall is rattling. Then, you'll need drywall skills.

It's a VIRTUAL channel unless stated otherwise.

Last edited by RayGuy; 12-13-2019 at 11:38 PM.
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post #9 of 9 Old 12-14-2019, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam61 View Post
Yes all seating positions and really nothing through the floor or body just from it’s origin point. Limited on other spots to place. But really just shakes the wall it’s on and some light rattles nearby and some feel of bass especially in the mid to upper low end.
It might be worth the time to get REW and a UMIK-1 and measure the FR of the subwoofer at the MLP. It's a new environment and it's possible there is a null at the MLP.

If you do confirm there is a null - I would first look into moving the subwoofer to a better location in the room where the FR is more linear at the MLP. Once you optimize subwoofer placement, then look into more powerful subwoofer options.

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