Originally Posted by Rysa_105
People like you are the exact reason why everything you read on the internet should not be taken at face value and especially purchase decisions should not be based upon what you read on the internet, but instead personally auditioning the subwoofers.
So this post that is quoted was actually deleted. I’m not sure what a mod will do to my post, but please edit it instead of deleting it as there is good information here. Ive removed my response in accordance. Thanks.
OP, I actually have a dealer right next to my house. Very useful if you ask me. I pop by to hear every so often. They usually have something different out every time. I believe last time it was the F212! Beautiful sub if you ask me.
Now, OP, here’s some information from someone who knows a little bit about what he’s talking about. These JL sub drivers are designed for high excursion and high power handling, not much else than that. It’s a good sub, sure. $16500? It’s not worth a third that. It makes you wonder why the DIY guys don’t ever use JL’s 13W7 driver for a DIY sub if it’s so that much superior.
Their “musicality”, otherwise known as transient response, is not any better than that of the servo subs Rythmik uses or close to lightweight pro woofers of PSA. Even the huge custom 18” drivers made by Fi that JTR uses are quite fine in that department. They have a ginormous magnet structure to keep them in check.
Distortion wise? It’s actually quite easy. Not only are the amps lower powered (you’re going to get less excess heat from the amps and less thermal throttling from the voice coil), the drivers are larger with a higher efficiency. This means less power to get to the same output level. Distortion is also correlated to excursion, which is the JL sub’s specialty and only reason it can keep up in terms of output. Which makes someone in this thread’s claim of lowest distortion sub when pushed to the max a fallacy.
I already covered output, but I’ll rehash, 4+ 15” or larger drivers, due to their much larger surface area, will almost always walk over a pair of 13” drivers in terms of output. Not to mention you know have more amplifier power behind them since there are multiple subs.
Getting a sub to “blend” is all about room placement and integration via crossovers, phase, and delay. REW generally helps the most with this as it allows you to take a sweep of your room and you can tweak the above variables over and over till you get it right. No magic involved, and no special sub needed!
A friend of mine who lives on the east coast actually used to deal JL subs before they trimmed down their dealers last year. When I asked him about them, he described them as a prettier than most box that has a good sub driver in it. Buy a sub from Kef or Revel for much cheaper and get equivalent performance. So it’s not just me
Though I don’t recommend Kef or Revel subs as is. Rythmik, PSA, JTR, SVS, etc all make better ones for cheaper
Here’s some numbers measured by an independent 3rd party. Distortion, and output
Note the low distortion and higher output. This sub by Rythmik costs $1800.
Note the high distortion and lower output. This sub by JL costs $2300.
Hopefully this helps OP!