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post #2851 of 2882 Old 01-11-2019, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Alaric View Post
Hi There,

Re-building my cinema set-up, which has been a multi year thing. I've got a two tier riser with three cinema seats on the back and a double laz-y-boy recliner up front. I built it all stiff and braced with Buttkickers in mind and have it supported on rubber mounts (reclaimed industrial aircon mounts).
It's got a pair of LFE's at the back and an Origional (about 3x the size) - I've currently got them hooked to an Inuke 3000DSP (Filter for low frequency response ) The two LFE's are parallel on one chanel and the Origional on the other.

I've got them via a Minidsp 2x4HD which is used to time align my two Paradigm Servo 15's (Output 1 and 2) and a bit of PEQ before Dirac works it's magic. I'm also playing with BEQ on this. I've got the inuke in dual mono mode (Y'd) with Output 3. I could switch to 3 and 4 a decouple the Buttkickers if needed!

It all works to a fashion, but I've never been happy setting levels to what feels right......Some form of calibration would be useful if there is anything???

Also time alignment. I managed to use REW to align the dual subs ( a massive 1.08ms, but they are both on the same wall etc). However since the Buttkickers are more tactile than sound ??? Turn 'em up loud and measure the clack???


Ta,
Lee
It's pretty complicated to follow your description, but I have a couple thoughts. First, if you are not doing so already, I would try to wire all the shakers together in whatever parallel/series wiring presents a friendly impedance to a single amp/EQ -- that way you will always be able to control the EQ/level of all shakers in unison. Unlike subs that require significant eq/level variations based on sub location and room reflections, all shakers should always be set to the exact same level/eq. There might be some tiny variation in intensity level between the chairs with one shaker each and the couch with multiple shakers, but I doubt the intensity difference will be significant enough to require separate levels (and almost certainly it wouldn't require separate EQ).

Second, in my experience, the best way to set the shaker cutoff is to set the intensity level a little bit higher than you plan to run with, then watch a lot of content and vary the frequency cutoff until you've found the exact point where things in the scene that are supposed to shake actually shake, and things that aren't supposed to shake, don't shake -- that will be the correct frequency cutoff. You may be able to tweak that a bit further by adjusting the slope of the cutoff to refine it a bit more. Once you have the frequency cutoff/slope perfect, then dial down the level back down so that the shaking intensity feels appropriate.
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post #2852 of 2882 Old 01-11-2019, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Alaric View Post
However since the Buttkickers are more tactile than sound ??? Turn 'em up loud and measure the clack??
The shakers will make sound with an LFE test signal, just like a sub rumbling, so it is possible to set them up by sound level analysis. I have done that (though mine was simple level setting and wasn't anything close to as sophisticated as your analysis), but in my experience, the only thing that makes sense is to set them by feel. Really the only trick is filtering out the higher frequency stuff that shouldn't produce shakes. After that, you just vary the intensity level.

The amount of "shake" content varies a bit for each movie based on how the audio was processed, so no matter how precisely you have set the shake level, there will still be times when you need to tweak the shake level slightly up or down slightly for individual movies. The more perfect you have the frequency cutoff, though, the less level tweaking you need for individual movie variations. I never touch the cutoff EQ on my shakers, just keep the intensity level at "+0" and then occasionally click it up or down a couple of notches with Harmony remote "shake up" and "shake down" buttons to compensate for variations in individual movies on the fly.

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post #2853 of 2882 Old 02-25-2019, 02:39 PM
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How do you guys deal with changing volumes and dynamics of movies with shakers? It seems I’m constantly having to adjust up and down. Movies like The Nun and Hunter/Killer both are great bass movies for example. The Nun has such high spl and low bass my chair nearly fell apart. Hunter/Killer was just right. I’ve ran into a few movies where the low bass is cranked up so much that I’m in fear of my ht chairs vaporizing.
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post #2854 of 2882 Old 02-25-2019, 03:29 PM
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How do you guys deal with changing volumes and dynamics of movies with shakers? It seems I’m constantly having to adjust up and down. Movies like The Nun and Hunter/Killer both are great bass movies for example. The Nun has such high spl and low bass my chair nearly fell apart. Hunter/Killer was just right. I’ve ran into a few movies where the low bass is cranked up so much that I’m in fear of my ht chairs vaporizing.
Sure, there are some movies which feature some brutal LFE (or vice-versa) which can prompt the need to adjust... but with my setup, I feel I have finally found the right amount of isolation, proper mounting locations, crossover and gain with my separate combos of loveseat, chair and whole riser assy that I really don't have to adjust. Believe me, it has taken some time and tweaking to get there, but you will. Alaric in the post above yours says it well, a big key is get the frequency cutoff correct first.
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post #2855 of 2882 Old 02-25-2019, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by deano86 View Post
Sure, there are some movies which feature some brutal LFE (or vice-versa) which can prompt the need to adjust... but with my setup, I feel I have finally found the right amount of isolation, proper mounting locations, crossover and gain with my separate combos of loveseat, chair and whole riser assy that I really don't have to adjust. Believe me, it has taken some time and tweaking to get there, but you will. Alaric in the post above yours says it well, a big key is get the frequency cutoff correct first.
Thanks for your response. I’m getting closer. I have mine cut out at 40hz. For movies that feature the brutal lfe I turned the amp down a bit. I’ll experiment some more with these types of movies.
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post #2856 of 2882 Old 02-25-2019, 04:37 PM
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My experience is that, even with the crossover carefully tuned, you still do have to bump the shake level up or down based upon how individual movies were mixed and mastered. I programmed "shake up" and "shake down" buttons on the Harmony to be able to adjust it on the fly. I use the Atlantic Technology box below for shake crossover and level. I set the gain so "+0" on the LED is the optimal setting (for most material), and then use the Harmony buttons to bump up or down based upon content differences. I don't usually need to go more than a couple clicks off of "+0" in either direction, but it's not unusual that I do need to adjust shake level for different content to avoid too much or too little shake.

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post #2857 of 2882 Old 02-25-2019, 04:53 PM
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FYI, the only time that I might be bothered with too much or too little shake is with my loveseat and chair setup which have buttkickers mounted inside of them... and like you, I can make gain adjustments with my Harmony if so needed. But, in my room, my MLP is actually on a second level riser and I find that my dual ProBk (big buttkickers!) shakers setup for it provides a much more consistent and natural feeling tactile response being that it comes from the floor ....without having to really make adjustments.
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post #2858 of 2882 Old 02-25-2019, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjp View Post
My experience is that, even with the crossover carefully tuned, you still do have to bump the shake level up or down based upon how individual movies were mixed and mastered. I programmed "shake up" and "shake down" buttons on the Harmony to be able to adjust it on the fly. I use the Atlantic Technology box below for shake crossover and level. I set the gain so "+0" on the LED is the optimal setting (for most material), and then use the Harmony buttons to bump up or down based upon content differences. I don't usually need to go more than a couple clicks off of "+0" in either direction, but it's not unusual that I do need to adjust shake level for different content to avoid too much or too little shake.

Agreed. Those movies I mention have a 10 to 15 decibel increase in low bass over many other action and horror movies. The Nun while not a great movie has some crazy low bass. A movie like that I would think should wreak havoc on many peoples transducer levels.
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post #2859 of 2882 Old 03-11-2019, 11:31 PM
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If the Buttkicker is directly below the MLP, is it safe to set the distance in the Denon AVR to 0 feet with Audyssey calibration? What about subwoofer levels in AVR? You leaving that at 0dB or moving it up or down?

Josh
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post #2860 of 2882 Old 03-27-2019, 07:17 AM
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FREE REMOTE CONTROLLED SHAKER AMP ====> If your AVR has an "amplifiable zone" (for example, many 7.1 Denon AVR's allow you to reconfigure the "surround back" amps for a zone usage if you are only running 5.1), then post 27 and post 19 of this thread (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/173-2...l#post57811068) shows how to use that spare amp channel as a free shaker amp. Not only is it a free shaker amp, but it allows you to be able to turn shaking on/off and to tweak shaking levels on the fly from your existing AVR remote control (something many actual shaker amps don't allow). If you are using Aura Pro shakers, the power from 2 AVR channels is more than enough to drive 4 or more shaker units.
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post #2861 of 2882 Old 04-04-2019, 07:51 PM
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Talking Powering an Earthquake Sound MQB-1 Pro Tactile Transducer?

Hi folks, (My first post here)

Please forgive the etiquette, but I'll get straight 2 the point. So I've ordered an Earthquake Sound MQB-1 Pro Tactile Transducer on Amazon for my current home theater set-up (for movie usage). I'm new to the optics surrounding transducers.

I do however know that I will need a power source (an AMP) for the Transducer. Would an an old Onkyo TX-SR502 receiver be enough to supply the juice required? And will I still need a low pass filter in addition to that to make this thing happen?

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.
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post #2862 of 2882 Old 04-04-2019, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GetStraight2ThePoint View Post
Hi folks, (My first post here)

Please forgive the etiquette, but I'll get straight 2 the point. So I've ordered an Earthquake Sound MQB-1 Pro Tactile Transducer on Amazon for my current home theater set-up (for movie usage). I'm new to the optics surrounding transducers.

I do however know that I will need a power source (an AMP) for the Transducer. Would an an old Onkyo TX-SR502 receiver be enough to supply the juice required? And will I still need a low pass filter in addition to that to make this thing happen?

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.
I would guess that receiver would be able to power 1 mqb. Is it the best option, probably not. You will need a low pass for sure cut off around 50Hz. If not your shaker will be active constantly and that will be bad for the shaker, amp, and just plain annoying.
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post #2863 of 2882 Old 04-05-2019, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by GetStraight2ThePoint View Post
Hi folks, (My first post here)

Please forgive the etiquette, but I'll get straight 2 the point. So I've ordered an Earthquake Sound MQB-1 Pro Tactile Transducer on Amazon for my current home theater set-up (for movie usage). I'm new to the optics surrounding transducers.

I do however know that I will need a power source (an AMP) for the Transducer. Would an an old Onkyo TX-SR502 receiver be enough to supply the juice required? And will I still need a low pass filter in addition to that to make this thing happen?

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.
I think the Onkyo should be fine, and you can use the LFE controls on that Onkyo to provide the lower cutoff for the shakers. You would put a splitter on your main sound system AVR LFE output (or take an unused LFE output if there is one) and run an RCA cable from LFE on main AVR to "CD in" left channel (or any analog stereo audio input) of the Onkyo. You would also want to set the Onkyo sound mode to "stereo" and select the CD input.

Feeding the LFE from your main AVR into the Onkyo left CD input will allow the Onkyo to process the main AVR subwoofer signal, then you can use the Onkyo's LFE controls to set the lower cutoff for the shakers. Then you would run an RCA from the Onkyo LFE output to the "right" CD input and use the right main Onkyo speaker output to drive the shaker.

Generally you would leave the Onkyo at a fixed volume and fixed LFE cutoff, but you could use the Onkyo volume and LFE to adjust shake intensity and cutoff "on the fly" to adjust for variations in effects mixes across movies. For the most part, the LFE settings for the shakers will stay constant once you have it dialed in, but volume (aka shake intensity) often does need to be slightly tweaked up or down to account for differences in effects processing across different movies/content.
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post #2864 of 2882 Old 04-06-2019, 06:46 PM
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Talking Powering an Earthquake Sound MQB-1 Pro Tactile Transducer?

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Originally Posted by pjp View Post
I think the Onkyo should be fine, and you can use the LFE controls on that Onkyo to provide the lower cutoff for the shakers. You would put a splitter on your main sound system AVR LFE output (or take an unused LFE output if there is one) and run an RCA cable from LFE on main AVR to "CD in" left channel (or any analog stereo audio input) of the Onkyo. You would also want to set the Onkyo sound mode to "stereo" and select the CD input.

Feeding the LFE from your main AVR into the Onkyo left CD input will allow the Onkyo to process the main AVR subwoofer signal, then you can use the Onkyo's LFE controls to set the lower cutoff for the shakers. Then you would run an RCA from the Onkyo LFE output to the "right" CD input and use the right main Onkyo speaker output to drive the shaker.

Generally you would leave the Onkyo at a fixed volume and fixed LFE cutoff, but you could use the Onkyo volume and LFE to adjust shake intensity and cutoff "on the fly" to adjust for variations in effects mixes across movies. For the most part, the LFE settings for the shakers will stay constant once you have it dialed in, but volume (aka shake intensity) often does need to be slightly tweaked up or down to account for differences in effects processing across different movies/content.
Great..would there be any negative effect on performance by going the Receiver route, or should I just forgo it all and purchase an Amplifier?

On a side note, I do plan on using only one Earthquake MQB1 to rattle one 3-seat sofa. Would just one unit suffice?

Since I plan of using only one, which amps should I be leaning towards? I was looking at this Dayton Audio SA1000 Subwoofer Amplifier Rack Mountable, but fear that this might be overkill. Your opinions and or recommendations for this and other amplifiers would be greatly appreciated once again.
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post #2865 of 2882 Old 04-06-2019, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by GetStraight2ThePoint View Post
Great..would there be any negative effect on performance by going the Receiver route, or should I just forgo it all and purchase an Amplifier?
To drive just one shaker, I don't think there is any disadvantage of using your AVR unless it really needs more than 75 watts (I haven't used that shaker to know what it takes to drive it). There is a big advantage in using your AVR over a SA1000 because you can adjust the volume (aka "shake level") from your Onkyo remote control, where you would have to get up and manually adjust the SA1000 knob, and then you can't feel the result of your adjustment until you sit back down again and wait for more shakes. That adjustment needs to be done from your seat, both for convenience and to be able to adjust it effectively. Having remote volume is a very large advantage because in my experience you will need to tweak the shake intensity slightly up or down based upon how individual movies have their special effects mixed/mastered.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GetStraight2ThePoint View Post
On a side note, I do plan on using only one Earthquake MQB1 to rattle one 3-seat sofa. Would just one unit suffice?
I've never used the Earthquake MQB1, but my guess (and it is definitely only a guess) is that something like 3 Aura pros distributed near the seating positions on the couch might be better (and less stressful on the sofa frame than one very powerful shaker). I'm driving 4 Aura Pros off of a single 100 watt channel and it is more than enough shaking power.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GetStraight2ThePoint View Post
Since I plan of using only one, which amps should I be leaning towards? I was looking at this Dayton Audio SA1000 Subwoofer Amplifier Rack Mountable, but fear that this might be overkill. Your opinions and or recommendations for this and other amplifiers would be greatly appreciated once again.
Honestly, I think using an SA1000 for a single shaker is a really bad idea. Shakers can generate a lot of force -- my 4 Aura pros with 100 watts will develop a lot of shaking on 4 theater chairs. I tend to intentionally use the lower end of the amp power range to prevent shakers from being overdriven/damaged. The Earthquake can handle a more power than the Aura Pro, but I would be very concerned putting 1000 watts into one shaker, both for the shaker's sake and the furniture it's attached to. Also, as mentioned before, it's very handy to have an amp with a remote volume/shake control. If you have a Harmony, you can add a "shake up" and "shake down" buttons to each activity that allow you to easily control the volume/shake of the Onkyo or whatever amp you use.

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post #2866 of 2882 Old 04-06-2019, 07:22 PM
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You could also use your Onkyo as a 5-channel amplifier. That model has DVD direct inputs (where it allows the DVD player to do the 5.1 processing and the Onkyo just passes whatever it receives on the 5.1 input directly to the 5-channel speaker outputs). You can use these 5 channels for anything you want -- use one or two speaker outputs to drive shakers, use two channels' speaker outputs as "surround back" channels, or to be the amp for zones, or whatever.
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post #2867 of 2882 Old 04-08-2019, 03:56 PM
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Powering an Earthquake Sound MQB-1 Pro Tactile Transducer?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pjp View Post
To drive just one shaker, I don't think there is any disadvantage of using your AVR unless it really needs more than 75 watts (I haven't used that shaker to know what it takes to drive it). There is a big advantage in using your AVR over a SA1000 because you can adjust the volume (aka "shake level") from your Onkyo remote control, where you would have to get up and manually adjust the SA1000 knob, and then you can't feel the result of your adjustment until you sit back down again and wait for more shakes. That adjustment needs to be done from your seat, both for convenience and to be able to adjust it effectively. Having remote volume is a very large advantage because in my experience you will need to tweak the shake intensity slightly up or down based upon how individual movies have their special effects mixed/mastered.



I've never used the Earthquake MQB1, but my guess (and it is definitely only a guess) is that something like 3 Aura pros distributed near the seating positions on the couch might be better (and less stressful on the sofa frame than one very powerful shaker). I'm driving 4 Aura Pros off of a single 100 watt channel and it is more than enough shaking power.



Honestly, I think using an SA1000 for a single shaker is a really bad idea. Shakers can generate a lot of force -- my 4 Aura pros with 100 watts will develop a lot of shaking on 4 theater chairs. I tend to intentionally use the lower end of the amp power range to prevent shakers from being overdriven/damaged. The Earthquake can handle a more power than the Aura Pro, but I would be very concerned putting 1000 watts into one shaker, both for the shaker's sake and the furniture it's attached to. Also, as mentioned before, it's very handy to have an amp with a remote volume/shake control. If you have a Harmony, you can add a "shake up" and "shake down" buttons to each activity that allow you to easily control the volume/shake of the Onkyo or whatever amp you use.
Thanks, so the advantage of sticking with the Onkyo AVR is the finer control it allows for when tuning the transducer. If I were to instead use two Earthquake MQB1s instead of one, would the Onkyo AVR still be as effective? or would opting for a dedicated amp be more feasible?

Your advice would be much appreciate again.
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post #2868 of 2882 Old 04-08-2019, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GetStraight2ThePoint View Post
Thanks, so the advantage of sticking with the Onkyo AVR is the finer control it allows for when tuning the transducer. If I were to instead use two Earthquake MQB1s instead of one, would the Onkyo AVR still be as effective? or would opting for a dedicated amp be more feasible?

Your advice would be much appreciate again.
The advantage of the AVR is not that it gives you finer control, but that it gives you remote control of shaking intensity and also crossover. You can sit in the seat and adjust the shaking for various content using the Onkyo remote -- you need to be sitting in the seat to do that effectively. The crossover you will only need to set only once (it will take a while to find perfect settings, but then you will pretty much leave it once you find the right setting). Shake intensity you will need to tweak slightly up or down for different movies. For the SA1000, or any shake amp without a remote control, you would need to get up from your seat to make adjustments (which means that you can't feel them as you make the adjustments), so you end up running back and forth between the couch and the amp, only being able to tell if it worked after you sit and wait for more shaking to evaluate.

The Earthquakes are 8 ohm shakers, so you can wire those two in parallel to create a 4 ohm load to drive them both from one speaker channel. Double check your AVR to make sure it can handle a 4 ohm load. I don't know how much power the Earthquakes require, but I suspect it would drive a pair of them just fine.

If not, then you could likely use post #2866 to drive up to 5 shakers with the 5 separate amps in your AVR. The only thing I'm not sure of is how your AVR handles LFE passthrough on the 6-channel DVD input. If it just passes LFE through, then you'd probably need to use 50hz FMOD's or some other crossover to set the shake cutoff. If the Onkyo's LFE controls are additive to the 6-channel DVD "subwoofer" input, then you could use the Onkyo's LFE to set the shake cutoff. In the latter case, you would feed your main AVR's LFE output into the Onkyo 6-channel DVD "subwoofer" input, then put a splitter RCA cable to connect the Onkyo Subwoofer output to the front left and front right inputs on the 6-channel Onkyo DVD input, then drive the shakers with the Front left and Front right speaker outputs.

.

Last edited by pjp; 04-08-2019 at 06:57 PM.
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post #2869 of 2882 Old 04-09-2019, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GetStraight2ThePoint View Post
Thanks, so the advantage of sticking with the Onkyo AVR is the finer control it allows for when tuning the transducer. If I were to instead use two Earthquake MQB1s instead of one, would the Onkyo AVR still be as effective? or would opting for a dedicated amp be more feasible?

Your advice would be much appreciate again. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
The advantage of the AVR is not that it gives you finer control, but that it gives you remote control of shaking intensity and also crossover. You can sit in the seat and adjust the shaking for various content using the Onkyo remote -- you need to be sitting in the seat to do that effectively. The crossover you will only need to set only once (it will take a while to find perfect settings, but then you will pretty much leave it once you find the right setting). Shake intensity you will need to tweak slightly up or down for different movies. For the SA1000, or any shake amp without a remote control, you would need to get up from your seat to make adjustments (which means that you can't feel them as you make the adjustments), so you end up running back and forth between the couch and the amp, only being able to tell if it worked after you sit and wait for more shaking to evaluate.

The Earthquakes are 8 ohm shakers, so you can wire those two in parallel to create a 4 ohm load to drive them both from one speaker channel. Double check your AVR to make sure it can handle a 4 ohm load. I don't know how much power the Earthquakes require, but I suspect it would drive a pair of them just fine.

If not, then you could likely use post #2866 to drive up to 5 shakers with the 5 separate amps in your AVR. The only thing I'm not sure of is how your AVR handles LFE passthrough on the 6-channel DVD input. If it just passes LFE through, then you'd probably need to use 50hz FMOD's or some other crossover to set the shake cutoff. If the Onkyo's LFE controls are additive to the 6-channel DVD "subwoofer" input, then you could use the Onkyo's LFE to set the shake cutoff. In the latter case, you would feed your main AVR's LFE output into the Onkyo 6-channel DVD "subwoofer" input, then put a splitter RCA cable to connect the Onkyo Subwoofer output to the front left and front right inputs on the 6-channel Onkyo DVD input, then drive the shakers with the Front left and Front right speaker outputs.

.
I've also come across this amp as well. Dayton BSA 200

https://www.daytonaudio.com/index.ph...th-remote.html

It seems to be marketed towards shakers and It too comes with a remote. Would this amp also work as well? Or is the AVR better due to its ability to fine tune the tt's
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post #2870 of 2882 Old 04-10-2019, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by GetStraight2ThePoint View Post
I've also come across this amp as well. Dayton BSA 200

https://www.daytonaudio.com/index.ph...th-remote.html

It seems to be marketed towards shakers and It too comes with a remote. Would this amp also work as well? Or is the AVR better due to its ability to fine tune the tt's
The Dayton BSA 200 amp seems to be a really good choice with the possible exception of it only having "wired" remote. If you plan to stuff the shaker amp behind the couch, where an IR signal from your remote wouldn't hit it, then a wired remote might be an advantage, but it means you have to snake a wired volume control from the amp to somewhere within reach on the couch. I can't in a million years understand why they wouldn't spend an extra $5 and design the BSA 200 to also include an IR remote receiver so that you could control it with a wireless remote or a Harmony/universal remote.

If you don't mind spending $200 on the BSA 200, and you don't mind the wired remote, then the BSA 200 seems to be an excellent choice. If you want wireless remote and want to reuse your AVR, then the other approach should work. To power two shakers, the performance between the Dayton BSA-200 and the AVR should be virtually identical.

You can use practically any amp for a shaker as long as it has low bass extension. For my four theater chair shakers, I use a spare 6th channel off my McIntosh amp. At the complete opposite end of the spectrum, I've used a $20 t-amp to drive a pair of mini-puck shakers in a driving seat -- both amps work just fine. There's nothing magical about a shaker amp, it's far less critical than an audio amp as long the amp is capable of low-bass extension. The only critical thing is the shake crossover and (for me at least) having remote control over volume.
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post #2871 of 2882 Old 04-13-2019, 11:10 AM
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The advantage of the AVR is not that it gives you finer control, but that it gives you remote control of shaking intensity and also crossover. You can sit in the seat and adjust the shaking for various content using the Onkyo remote -- you need to be sitting in the seat to do that effectively. The crossover you will only need to set only once (it will take a while to find perfect settings, but then you will pretty much leave it once you find the right setting). Shake intensity you will need to tweak slightly up or down for different movies. For the SA1000, or any shake amp without a remote control, you would need to get up from your seat to make adjustments (which means that you can't feel them as you make the adjustments), so you end up running back and forth between the couch and the amp, only being able to tell if it worked after you sit and wait for more shaking to evaluate.

The Earthquakes are 8 ohm shakers, so you can wire those two in parallel to create a 4 ohm load to drive them both from one speaker channel. Double check your AVR to make sure it can handle a 4 ohm load. I don't know how much power the Earthquakes require, but I suspect it would drive a pair of them just fine.

If not, then you could likely use post #2866 to drive up to 5 shakers with the 5 separate amps in your AVR. The only thing I'm not sure of is how your AVR handles LFE passthrough on the 6-channel DVD input. If it just passes LFE through, then you'd probably need to use 50hz FMOD's or some other crossover to set the shake cutoff. If the Onkyo's LFE controls are additive to the 6-channel DVD "subwoofer" input, then you could use the Onkyo's LFE to set the shake cutoff. In the latter case, you would feed your main AVR's LFE output into the Onkyo 6-channel DVD "subwoofer" input, then put a splitter RCA cable to connect the Onkyo Subwoofer output to the front left and front right inputs on the 6-channel Onkyo DVD input, then drive the shakers with the Front left and Front right speaker outputs.

.
Hello again, So I ended up purchasing an additional Earthquake MQB1 for a total of two units. I'm just about ready to begin surgery but wanted to clarify somethings.

Firstly, within the Onkyo receiver there is a setting for 60hz (which also happens to be it's lowest setting) crossover and according to this webpage https://www.soundandvision.com/content/onkyo-tx-sr502 the 60hz crossover appears to only(?) work out of the subwoofer pre-out. Would that crossover be sufficient to bring this project to fruition or would a 50hz FMOD still be required? Is there any suggested setup that I could use that wouldn't require the use of an FMOD?

Earlier you suggested using the DVD direct input setting..would this method also require the use of an FMOD?

Your advice/suggestions would be much appreciated as always, thank you.
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post #2872 of 2882 Old 04-14-2019, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by GetStraight2ThePoint View Post
Hello again, So I ended up purchasing an additional Earthquake MQB1 for a total of two units. I'm just about ready to begin surgery but wanted to clarify somethings.

Firstly, within the Onkyo receiver there is a setting for 60hz (which also happens to be it's lowest setting) crossover and according to this webpage https://www.soundandvision.com/content/onkyo-tx-sr502 the 60hz crossover appears to only(?) work out of the subwoofer pre-out. Would that crossover be sufficient to bring this project to fruition or would a 50hz FMOD still be required? Is there any suggested setup that I could use that wouldn't require the use of an FMOD?

Earlier you suggested using the DVD direct input setting..would this method also require the use of an FMOD?

Your advice/suggestions would be much appreciated as always, thank you.
What exact settings will work will depend on the characteristics of the shaker itself and on the slopes used in the crossover in the AVR. 60 hz might very well be low enough, or it might not, the only way to know is to try it. I've attached a photo of my settings to drive 4 Aura Pros -- I have not had to touch those crossover settings at all for a couple of years, but the volume/shake intensity I do tweak up or down a click or three based upon various material. I adjust shake intensity from the seats using "shake up" and "shake down" buttons on a Harmony remote. The shake intensity happens to be at -1 in that setting, but I have everything set so that "0" intensity is typically correct for most material.

For using the DVD inputs to access multiple channels, you'll need to research or experiment with the Onkyo AVR to see how it handles the "pass through" of the subwoofer DVD input. If it truly passes it through then you will probably need an Fmod, but if your Onkyo AVR LFE controls are layered on top of the DVD subwoofer input, then you should be able to use the Onkyo LFE controls. I have no idea what your Onkyo does or what is the norm -- if I were designing it I would make the LFE additive so you could additionally tweak the sub in the AVR rather than needing to do that in the DVD player, but I don't know what Onkyo did.

My crossover settings for 4 Aura Pro shakers are shown in the picture below. My crossover is set at about 65hz, but your shakers and AVR crossover will have different operational characteristics, so it's impossible to predict what will work for your system without trying it. It will take a bit of experimentation to get it right and the AVR is better than an Fmod because you have control over it (as long as the AVR controls go low enough).

PS: You'll probably notice the SA1000 I talked you out of in the photo below -- the SA1000 works great for the 18" table sub in my avatar, but I don't recommend it for shakers for reasons previously mentioned.

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post #2873 of 2882 Old 04-16-2019, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bob_vdi View Post
Practical speakers in SERIES wiring.<br>
Good idea for moving/removing a chair from a room for some reason, or if you don't want to run wires from one chair to the next based on spacing.<br><a href="http://cdn.avsforum.com/b/b8/b81fd44c_vbattach15287.jpeg"><img alt="LL" src="http://cdn.avsforum.com/b/b8/525x525px-LL-b81fd44c_vbattach15287.jpeg" style="width:525px;height:404px;"></a>
yes
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post #2874 of 2882 Old 05-02-2019, 08:35 PM
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I think I am confused and maybe someone can help. I recently starting turning a room into our HT and just purchased some seating. I will have two rows of 3 so six chairs total. Can the 250watt amp from PE run 6 Aura pro bass shakers? should I run 2 of the amps one for each row? how do I wire these? Sorry for all the questions im reading through the thread but some of the pictures are missing and I feel kinda lost.
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post #2875 of 2882 Old 05-03-2019, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Cinemiya View Post
I think I am confused and maybe someone can help. I recently starting turning a room into our HT and just purchased some seating. I will have two rows of 3 so six chairs total. Can the 250watt amp from PE run 6 Aura pro bass shakers? should I run 2 of the amps one for each row? how do I wire these? Sorry for all the questions im reading through the thread but some of the pictures are missing and I feel kinda lost.
I'm running 4 Aura Pros with the 6th 100-watt channel of a McIntosh amp, so 250 watts should be more than enough for 6. It would help a lot to see which exact 250 watt amp you are looking at to see what the impedance compatibility is. Since the Aura Pros are 4 ohms, you should be able to connect 2 sets of 3 shakers in series (12 ohms each), then connect those two serial chains in parallel to get you to 6 ohms overall that the amp sees. Depending on the amp, you might be able to do alternate wiring for a lower overall impedance to squeeze a few more watts more out of the amp, but 6 ohms should be a nice safe (easy to drive) load for most sub/shaker amp.
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post #2876 of 2882 Old 05-03-2019, 11:22 AM
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I'm running 4 Aura Pros with the 6th 100-watt channel of a McIntosh amp, so 250 watts should be more than enough for 6. It would help a lot to see which exact 250 watt amp you are looking at to see what the impedance compatibility is. Since the Aura Pros are 4 ohms, you should be able to connect 2 sets of 3 shakers in series (12 ohms each), then connect those two serial chains in parallel to get you to 6 ohms overall that the amp sees. Depending on the amp, you might be able to do alternate wiring for a lower overall impedance to squeeze a few more watts more out of the amp, but 6 ohms should be a nice safe (easy to drive) load for most sub/shaker amp.
The amp i was looking at is the Dayton Audio SPA250 Amp. They have the bundle which includes 4 aura pros and then I would just need to buy two extra. Thanks for your help by the way.
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post #2877 of 2882 Old 05-03-2019, 11:37 AM
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The amp i was looking at is the Dayton Audio SPA250 Amp. They have the bundle which includes 4 aura pros and then I would just need to buy two extra. Thanks for your help by the way.
The SPA250 can handle 4 ohms according to the specs, so it should be fine. The SA230 (https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...ifier--300-813) might be a nicer form factor (unless you have a good place to put the plate) -- it's rated at 233 watts into 4 ohms. Costs a bit more than the plate though.
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post #2878 of 2882 Old 06-17-2019, 12:01 AM
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Noob question on connecting Aura Bass Shaker

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Bob,

I apologize.. I looked at your diagrams and read your message, but must have skipped right over the 3 pair portion of it..

With three pair, you are limited to either 6 or 12 ohms.. I honestly think that your receiver would run fine at 6ohms, so I would try that first..

12ohms is simply series wiring all 3 shakers together on each side of the amp.

6ohms is two shakers wired in parallel for a 2ohm load and then this wired in series to the remaining shaker for a (2+4) 6ohm load..

Calculating it is pretty easy.. Series you just add the numbers.. two 4ohms is 8ohms.. Parallel is (R1*R2)/(R1+R2)... For the same numbers, you just half it.. (4*4)/(4+4) = 16/8 = 2...... If you had an 8ohm load and a 4ohm load, it would be (8*4)/8+4) = 32/12 = 2.66ohms, almost as low as two 4ohm speakers..

As far as attaching the shakers, in recliners you don't have much option. I'd have to see under the chair to really think about it, but I bet you could fit a strip of 1/4" ply between the foam and springs.. I'm thinking about 4-5 springs running front to back.. If it's crisscrossed springs, never mind about that idea..

You could try screwing them with small screws to the front/back, or sides of the chair frame.. Something to get the vibration up through the back of the chair, as the butt only effect gets old after a while..

Maybe zip tie a piece of wood across several springs? Again, if the springs all ready criss-cross and touch each other anyway, disregard..

You are losing some vibration through the zip ties too. No matter how tight you get them, they will never be as tight as one screwed into something else.. The wood works well because the shaker can become fully coupled with it and then has a larger area to hit more of the springs.. Right now your 5" circle of power is only transferring it where ever a spring is touching it.. So together you might only have a 1" circle of coupled energy..

Hey there,

I am trying to understand this post but I can't. Not a very technical person, far from it actually its a miracle I got this DIY project done properly. I installed two shakers and it seemed unbalanced so I am getting another one.

But my issue now is, I am using Aura Bassshaker rated at 50w, 4ohm. My amp is a Dayton 100W at 4ohm. Currently running the pair via series connection, making it 8ohm each. It means each Shaker is using 50W, 50W and 8ohm correct?

Wha can I do with the third one when it arrived? How do I wire them and what kind of power is given to each?
As mentioned, I am electronically an idiot so, I don't want it to explode or anything. At the same time I want to get the optimum power I can channel to each of the shaker without compromising performance and safety using the given equipment.

I am also not clear on how this Ohm and Wattage works. If I connect all three in series, I will get 12ohm, which means Shaker 1 = 33W
Shaker 2 = 33W
Shaker 3 = 33W

Correct?

Would that be best ? Any expert help is appreciated, a simple drawing on which connect to which would even be greater, just in case I don't understand, which chances are, I probably might not.

Sorry for the noob question.

Thanks in advance.
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post #2879 of 2882 Old 06-24-2019, 12:29 PM
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I saw somewhere about powering a bass shaker with the extra spots on a receiver. I probably don't qualify or read that entirely wrong.

I have a Yamaha RX-V673. I only run 5.1 right now. Any chance I could get two bass shakers going off the receiver?
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post #2880 of 2882 Old 06-24-2019, 02:42 PM
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I saw somewhere about powering a bass shaker with the extra spots on a receiver. I probably don't qualify or read that entirely wrong.

I have a Yamaha RX-V673. I only run 5.1 right now. Any chance I could get two bass shakers going off the receiver?
I think that model allows you to assign the unused channel amps to zone 2, which means you can feed LFE into zone 2 to drive shakers directly with that unused internal amp.
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