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post #30271 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by drh3b View Post
I would try calling SVS. They are known for their customer service, and you could probably figure out very quickly if it's a setup issue, defective subwoofer, or just simply not enough subwoofer for you.
I budget subwoofer might not be enough, but just the fact you are getting weird noises makes me think either the subwoofer is defective, or you are clipping the signal from the AVR. I had slightly more powerful sealed subwoofers from SVS(SB12-NSD), and I often went beyond their capabilities, but never heard a bad sound because the protection circuitry would cut in(LED on rear would flicker red). I don't think the newer SVS subwoofers like yours have an LED that turns red when the protection circuitry cuts in, but I could be wrong.
Hello and thank you for respnding. I have gotten rid of the farting noise on all disc except for blade runner 2049. I'm just gonna go ahead and blame the disc for seemingly boosting the frick out of my subwoofer no matter the volume. I changed the lfe from 0db to the lowest setting. It's all good now. Thank you to everyone who has taken the time to help me out!!!
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post #30272 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 09:11 AM
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What's with the 4000 series shipping delays? It appears the 4000 series has long stretches of unavailability, someone mentioned Customs but a month or longer at a time? Where are these crates stored if held up because of customs problems? A container ship? A port warehouse somewhere? Any potential issues with the components being stored for long periods in the cold or damp atmosphere?

Curious if anyone has experience or knowledge
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post #30273 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Droidboi View Post
Hello and thank you for respnding. I have gotten rid of the farting noise on all disc except for blade runner 2049. I'm just gonna go ahead and blame the disc for seemingly boosting the frick out of my subwoofer no matter the volume. I changed the lfe from 0db to the lowest setting. It's all good now. Thank you to everyone who has taken the time to help me out!!!
Something still doesn't seem right. You shouldn't have to turn down the LFE channel that much. In fact, the LFE channel is designed to run 10 dB hot! I have the slightly bigger / newer SB2000 and have never had any farting sounds, even when testing max volumes. I even watched BR2049 recently and didn't notice any sound issues. I suspect you have a defective amp, and it's best to call SVS as others have suggested. Ed Mullen will take care of you.
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post #30274 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by drh3b View Post
I would try calling SVS. They are known for their customer service, and you could probably figure out very quickly if it's a setup issue, defective subwoofer, or just simply not enough subwoofer for you.
I budget subwoofer might not be enough, but just the fact you are getting weird noises makes me think either the subwoofer is defective, or you are clipping the signal from the AVR. I had slightly more powerful sealed subwoofers from SVS(SB12-NSD), and I often went beyond their capabilities, but never heard a bad sound because the protection circuitry would cut in(LED on rear would flicker red). I don't think the newer SVS subwoofers like yours have an LED that turns red when the protection circuitry cuts in, but I could be wrong.
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Originally Posted by Magellan55 View Post
Something still doesn't seem right. You shouldn't have to turn down the LFE channel that much. In fact, the LFE channel is designed to run 10 dB hot! I have the slightly bigger / newer SB2000 and have never had any farting sounds, even when testing max volumes. I suspect you have a defective amp, and it's best to call SVS as others have suggested. Ed Mullen will take care of you.
+1

IMO, I also suspect the behavior of the sub appears abnormal...the best advice for the OP is to contact SVS, establish the sub's functionality, and benefit from their most prominent product....customer service!

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post #30275 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Droidboi View Post
Hello and thank you for respnding. I have gotten rid of the farting noise on all disc except for blade runner 2049. I'm just gonna go ahead and blame the disc for seemingly boosting the frick out of my subwoofer no matter the volume. I changed the lfe from 0db to the lowest setting. It's all good now. Thank you to everyone who has taken the time to help me out!!!

The noise you're experiencing is the driver being over driven and bottoming out. Something that is very hard to do with SVS subs. It's sealed so there is no port to produce the "farting" noise that is called "chuffing".



You need a more powerful sub since it seems you like everything extremely loud.

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post #30276 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by mactoast View Post
Quick story, I walked into Best Buy the other day to buy A Quiet Place on a whim. I remembered it had some great bass scenes and wanted to demo them with the addition on the second sub. So, I'm at the register and the lady there strikes up a conversation and is asking me if I had seen Bird Box yet. Yes, I reply and after a little more small talk I asked her if she had seen a movie on good sound system.
" Oh yes" she replies. "we have a sound bar". Bit my tongue, thanked the nice young lady and walked out smiling and shaking my head.
And that my friends is why we still have crappy Dobly digital movie streams from Netflix.
For a second the story looked like it might end up as a Playboy one.
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post #30277 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 01:26 PM
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I'm pretty sure it has more to do with bandwidth than the majority of viewers not owning a good sound system.
I don't believe it's a band width issue at all. They are cramming 4k video down the same pipe. People run out and buy shiny new cheap 4k tv's because they see a "better picture". Then they watch the movies with the TV speakers or cheap sound bars because they have know idea what they are missing. Kind of like when HD tv's came out and you would go to someones house and see it hooked up with a composite cable. They never even realized they were not watching high def. At least now video is kind off dummy proof with one HDMI connection. Picture settings are another issue completely. I just hate watching anything with a lousy audio track these days. No reason for it other then no demand from most consumers.
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post #30278 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MarcusD777 View Post
My current setup consists of (2) Klipsch rp 280f towers with 450C Center speaker. This is configured in a 5.1.4 dolby atmos setup. I am using all in ceiling speakers for the atmos and surrounds. I just recently switched from an Elac Sub3030 subwoofer to the new SVS SB3000 as this is a bit more powerful and (most importantly to my wife) takes up less space in the room. I was happy with this setup but wanted to appease my wife with the sub size (yet hopefully end up with a better overall sound). I am pairing these speakers with a Denon 4400 receiver. After puting the SVS sub in line and re-running Audassey a couple times, I have not been able to get the sb 3000 up to par with the Elac sub3030 I had prior. The Elac filled the room much more efficiently and seemed to meld much easier with my other speakers. You could feel the sub fequencies for action movies/games yet filled out the low end with a warm tone. The SVS seems to have more punch but lacking in thickness and gel with the rest of the system. Any tips and tricks to get this sub running up to full steam with my current setup?
This sounds like a set-up and digital bass management issue. Contact us at [email protected] and we'll get all of your post-Audyssey settings and get the subwoofer and your entire system performing optimally.

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post #30279 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Droidboi View Post
Hello again. I have not had any progression in getting the vlume quite right. I did put the lfe level on the reciver from 0db to -20 db. That fixed the noise at one point but it was still noticable. I have tried the subwoofer crawl and the subwoofer is in the loudest place. Having the volume knob at 12 o'clock and the gain at -6db seems to be the only way to get rid of it when playing at 0db lfe level. Changing the lfe level to -10 or -20 helps but it's still there if i raise the volume or gain. Judging by the fact that the subwoofer has a 300 watt amp, 12 inch driver and is placed in the loudest place in my room. I am very suprised at how low the subwoofer handles without any weird noises. Maybe i was expecting to much out of a budget sealed subhwoofer?
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I have tried raising the volume knob while having the gain at -6bb. I do still get the same noise.
Post calibration you really want to be somewhere around -9/-10db on your AVR's sub level trim. That gives you room to bump it a few db or so, or reduce it if you so desire. But, as @drh3b suggested, you should contact SVS before giving up on that particular sub. It could very well be just a bad driver, and they'll help you to get it replaced. If that doesn't do it, then it might be time to consider going with something like the PB-2000.

Definitely look into troubleshooting your issue with SVS though, as they do a great job helping their customers. Actually, @Ed Mullen usually lends a hand here on the forums quite often. Perhaps he can assist you directly with your issue.

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post #30280 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by H Stevens View Post
What's with the 4000 series shipping delays? It appears the 4000 series has long stretches of unavailability, someone mentioned Customs but a month or longer at a time? Where are these crates stored if held up because of customs problems? A container ship? A port warehouse somewhere? Any potential issues with the components being stored for long periods in the cold or damp atmosphere?

Curious if anyone has experience or knowledge
Our latest shipment of 4000-series subwoofers arrived today - all current back-orders are being shipped today.

While it has been challenging keeping the 4000-series in stock due to its popularity, I want to clarify that this has not been one long/protracted back-order period and the product has not been sitting for extended periods of time. We've been receiving 4000-series shipments all along, and each back-order period has actually been fairly short.

This most recent shipment was indeed held-up in customs, but it was only for a short time (a few days) and we notified all affected customers of the delay.
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post #30281 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by d-rail34 View Post
Post calibration you really want to be somewhere around -9/-10db on your AVR's sub level trim. That gives you room to bump it a few db or so, or reduce it if you so desire. But, as @drh3b suggested, you should contact SVS before giving up on that particular sub. It could very well be just a bad driver, and they'll help you to get it replaced. If that doesn't do it, then it might be time to consider going with something like the PB-2000.

Definitely look into troubleshooting your issue with SVS though, as they do a great job helping their customers. Actually, @Ed Mullen usually lends a hand here on the forums quite often. Perhaps he can assist you directly with your issue.
The LFE channel (.1) should never be attenuated. It should be left at 0 dB. The reason this attenuation feature exists is rooted in the very distant past and honestly should not even be accessible to the end-user. The encoding level of the LFE channel relative to the bass in the speaker channels is set by the mixing engineers and the DD/DTS decoders. There is no reason to digitally attenuate the LFE channel on any incoming soundtrack.

Note, the LFE channel level attenuation control is not the same as the subwoofer channel level under manual set-up.

My advice to the SB-1000 owner is as follows:
  1. set the LFE attenuation control to 0 dB and never adjust it
  2. set the SB-1000 gain to 2 o'clock, the phase to 0, and the low pass to LFE
  3. run Accu-EQ
  4. report back with:
    • the crossover assigned to each channel (including if any channels are set to full-band)
    • the subwoofer mode LFE or LFE+main
    • the LPF/LFE setting
    • the trim/level settings for every speaker channel and the subwoofer channel

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post #30282 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
The LFE channel (.1) should never be attenuated. It should be left at 0 dB. The reason this attenuation feature exists is rooted in the very distant past and honestly should not even be accessible to the end-user. The encoding level of the LFE channel relative to the bass in the speaker channels is set by the mixing engineers and the DD/DTS decoders. There is no reason to digitally attenuate the LFE channel on any incoming soundtrack.

Note, the LFE channel level attenuation control is not the same as the subwoofer channel level under manual set-up.

My advice to the SB-1000 owner is as follows:
  1. set the LFE attenuation control to 0 dB and never adjust it
  2. set the SB-1000 gain to 2 o'clock, the phase to 0, and the low pass to LFE
  3. run Accu-EQ
  4. report back with:
    • the crossover assigned to each channel (including if any channels are set to full-band)
    • the subwoofer mode LFE or LFE+main
    • the LPF/LFE setting
    • the trim/level settings for every speaker channel and the subwoofer channel
This would be intended for @Droidboi .


Thanks Ed!

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post #30283 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
Our latest shipment of 4000-series subwoofers arrived today - all current back-orders are being shipped today.

While it has been challenging keeping the 4000-series in stock due to its popularity, I want to clarify that this has not been one long/protracted back-order period and the product has not been sitting for extended periods of time. We've been receiving 4000-series shipments all along, and each back-order period has actually been fairly short.

This most recent shipment was indeed held-up in customs, but it was only for a short time (a few days) and we notified all affected customers of the delay.
Thanks for clarifying, I have been checking your online store since the beginning of January and they have not been available. Evidently you were filling backorders, glad to see they are rolling again.
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post #30284 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by d-rail34 View Post
This would be intended for @Droidboi .


Thanks Ed!

Darrell
Yes - thanks for the lateral. I figured he was monitoring the thread.

I'm curious to see his Accu-EQ set-up results.

We actually have seen a few cases lately of bad set-up mics. They can't read bass frequencies properly and this results in 2 things - a super high crossover for each channel (way higher than you would normally expect for that speaker) and also a way overcooked subwoofer calibration level.

I'm not saying that is the case here, but 2 o'clock at the sub and +8 on the AVR in that size room is definitely suspect.

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post #30285 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 03:05 PM
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Thanks for clarifying, I have been checking your online store since the beginning of January and they have not been available. Evidently you were filling backorders, glad to see they are rolling again.
That is exactly correct. I think we're finally pulling ahead of demand at this point and this latest shipment should keep us in stock.

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post #30286 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by H Stevens View Post
What's with the 4000 series shipping delays? It appears the 4000 series has long stretches of unavailability, someone mentioned Customs but a month or longer at a time? Where are these crates stored if held up because of customs problems? A container ship? A port warehouse somewhere? Any potential issues with the components being stored for long periods in the cold or damp atmosphere?

Curious if anyone has experience or knowledge
The guy I deal with stores all his SVS subs in a storage unit so I doubt we have anything to worry about

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post #30287 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 05:23 PM
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My Pioneer Elite AVR's always set my subs low and my speakers to large when i run the set up. I always have to go into the menu and set the speakers back to small and turn up my sub setting. Not sure how other makes of AVR's do when it comes to the subs.

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post #30288 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 06:05 PM
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My Pioneer Elite AVR's always set my subs low and my speakers to large when i run the set up. I always have to go into the menu and set the speakers back to small and turn up my sub setting. Not sure how other makes of AVR's do when it comes to the subs.
While after taking a quick glance at the "Pioneer Elite AVR's", I could not find anything about what type of calibration system that they use.
However, I can tell you on my Marantz AVP and the previous ones that use Audyssey for calibration. It also set my speakers to large, and do the same as you did.
Change them to small post calibration. Many others also do the same.

The reason for the speakers to be set as large after calibration, is as long a speaker can reach a certain frequency, at a certain roll off point (the -3 or 6dB point).
It will be set to large, just cannot remember the number at this moment

For the bass level, many also find-it to be set to low. And like you most user just turn-up the bass on the AVR/AVP, post calibration.
While mine are only + 1dB, it is not uncommon for some user to have the bass at + 5-6dB.

So it is perfectly normal




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post #30289 of 31234 Old 01-21-2019, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
Yes - thanks for the lateral. I figured he was monitoring the thread.

I'm curious to see his Accu-EQ set-up results.

We actually have seen a few cases lately of bad set-up mics. They can't read bass frequencies properly and this results in 2 things - a super high crossover for each channel (way higher than you would normally expect for that speaker) and also a way overcooked subwoofer calibration level.

I'm not saying that is the case here, but 2 o'clock at the sub and +8 on the AVR in that size room is definitely suspect.
I'm curious as well. I too have an Onkyo (AccuEQ), and have had some less than favorable results at times. It wasn't until I made a few tweaks this last go around that I was finally able to get a really good calibration out of it.

As for the 2 o'clock/+8, I was really surprised to see that he ended up with that. Hopefully, he's able to get it resolved.


Thanks again for the support,

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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post

Personally, I might delay my purchase and try to save-up for a PB3000. I understand that WAF might also be a consideration in that, but that would be the best solution. More mid-bass, the new features, and even more low-bass than the PB2000. Win/win! If that really isn't possible, I would probably lean toward the PB2000, on the basis of 70/30 movies/music. But, that's about the best I can do. Hopefully, you will find sufficient information in this post to help you to better align your options with your objectives.

Regards,
Mike
Thanks Mike and others for your advice , If I can get an in home trial and upgrade possibility from my dealer I will definitely go for it. I am a believer in "Buy nice or buy twice" and the PB3K does seem to tick all the boxes for both movies and music and ease of use even if in Canada it is almost twice the price of a PB2K .
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post #30291 of 31234 Old 01-22-2019, 01:28 AM
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while after taking a quick glance at the "pioneer elite avr's", i could not find anything about what type of calibration system that they use.
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post #30292 of 31234 Old 01-22-2019, 04:02 AM
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Not sure how much has changed since i got my SC61 back in 2012. But it still works fine so i can't see replacing it.

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post #30293 of 31234 Old 01-22-2019, 09:22 AM
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Hey Ed!

First of all, I want to thank you guys for making such kickass subs, I've recently got two SB-1000s for my HT and the sound is amazing. However, there's always room for improvement, right?

I chose SB because of space limitations in my room, PB just couldn't fit anywhere without sticking out too much. And since SB is more precise and not as "brutal" as PB, I miss the chest pounding bass in some movie scenes. That made me thinking about adding a third sub to the system. Now, my options are a third SB-1000 or SB-2000. I've created a schematic of my room (attached to this post), outlining some key furniture, length and width, and current subs placement, and also marked three available options for placing a third sub. Btw, my ceiling is 8.2ft, forgot to add it to the picture.

My questions are, first, would you go with a 1000 or 2000? Second, where would you suggest placing the third sub? If you'd suggest going with a 2000, where would be the best spot for it in the room, maybe replace a front 1000 with it?
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My system: 7.2.4
Screen: LG OLED65B8 AVR: Denon X4400H, External amp: Emotiva A-500, Center: SVS Prime Center, Fronts: SVS Prime Bookshelfs, Surrounds: DefTech ProMonitor 800, Surround backs: DefTech ProMonitor 600, Subs: SVS SB-1000, SVS SB-3000, Heights: 4xCambridge Audio Minx 22, 4K Blu-Ray Player: Sony X700, Media player: Nvidia Shield
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post #30294 of 31234 Old 01-22-2019, 12:30 PM
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Questions about REW with multiple SVS subs

Hey @Austin Jerry I would very much like to do REW for my upcoming PC4000s when they arrive

At the beginning of your REW document you say to have a tape measure or laser pointer...is this negated or better with the MiniDSP 2x4? Also, I know it says to have a laptop or MacBook...would a Mac mini be ok with a Bluetooth keyboard and mouse?

Also I have a umik but not a mic stand...is this ok?

Sony 75Z9D, Samsung 65JS9500
Monitor Audio Gold 200(2), Gold 350, Gold 50(2), Gold CT280-IDC(4). SVS PC4000(2).
NAD 758, Anthem MCA-5
Apple TV 4K, Nvidea Shield. Mac Mini (2018). Samsung UHD BluRay and X-Box One X. 14 Sonos
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post #30295 of 31234 Old 01-22-2019, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avsmesa View Post
Thanks Mike and others for your advice , If I can get an in home trial and upgrade possibility from my dealer I will definitely go for it. I am a believer in "Buy nice or buy twice" and the PB3K does seem to tick all the boxes for both movies and music and ease of use even if in Canada it is almost twice the price of a PB2K .
Glad to see, that you chosen the wise approach of buying once instead of twice

As a fellow Canadian, I do know the pain of buying a US made product here in Canada. Since most of Theater gears are from a US, ID companies.
While the price is always almost double. Due to many factor, CDN/US dollar exchange, broker fee and more expensive to be ship, for the distributer.
It is worth the wait, time do fly-by fast, when you want a new toy.


Ray
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Last edited by darthray; 01-22-2019 at 04:50 PM.
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post #30296 of 31234 Old 01-22-2019, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
However, I can tell you on my Marantz AVP and the previous ones that use Audyssey for calibration. It also set my speakers to large, and do the same as you did.
Change them to small post calibration. Many others also do the same.
Heck my Sony AVR sets my tiny 3" Take sats to "large" during cal! They only go down to maybe 100 Hz.

Is there an AVR that DOESN'T set speakers to large during cal?

HT: OLED65E6P (ChadB cal'd), STR-DN1080, UBP-X800, 7 Take Classics, Dual SB2000's
LR: 47LW5600
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post #30297 of 31234 Old 01-22-2019, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Magellan55 View Post
Heck my Sony AVR sets my tiny 3" Take sats to "large" during cal! They only go down to maybe 100 Hz.

Is there an AVR that DOESN'T set speakers to large during cal?
Not that I am aware of.
While I only know how Audyssey work and not great at-it, since I only the basic. I believe that all calibration system, do work to a certain degree of the same principle.

The basic is, as long a speaker can play a certain frequency. At a certain cut off as so many minus dB, the calibration system will set those speakers as large.
And since any crossover on a speaker or AVR, is not a brick a wall.
Some lower frequency will be played, by the attenuation of the speaker slope.
Therefore some lower bass will be played, but at much lower level.
And if the calibration system pick-up those lower frequencies, then your speaker will be set as large.

Just the nature of the beast, and there is no harm, To set them after to small, with your preference for crossover points (as long it is higher, not lower than the calibration setting).
While I know with the Audyssey, it does not changes affect the calibration. I believe the same should be for various calibration system.

This side of the forum, may give you better explanation;
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...ps-processors/


Ray
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Last edited by darthray; 01-23-2019 at 03:28 PM.
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post #30298 of 31234 Old 01-22-2019, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magellan55 View Post
Heck my Sony AVR sets my tiny 3" Take sats to "large" during cal! They only go down to maybe 100 Hz.

Is there an AVR that DOESN'T set speakers to large during cal?
Hi,

Darth already gave you a good answer, but I will expand on it a little bit. When you put a speaker (or a subwoofer) inside a room, its bass capabilities change, partly as a result of boundary gain (proximity to walls which amplify the bass frequencies). Speakers can also have bass attenuated, due to room modes, so the bass capabilities can be reduced by the room placement, too. Having an AVR detect speakers with 3" woofers as "Large" is pretty unusual, but the basic principle is the same for all AVR's and calibration procedures.

When a calibration is performed, most AVR's will be measuring the frequency response at the main listening position and assigning settings of Large, or Small with a crossover, based on their <40Hz response. If the speaker (or pair) measures <40Hz at the MLP, the speaker is set to Large. And, if the speaker measures higher than 40Hz, the speaker is set to Small and a crossover is assigned. Some calibration systems are probably more accurate in their measurements than others, but I believe they are all working on the same basic principles.

That initial assignment is not a recommendation. So, your Sony AVR is not telling you that you should operate your little satellite speakers as Large, or even with a 40Hz or 60Hz crossover. It is merely informing you that it detected a FR consistent with its programming for Large. It is up to the listener to decide what to do with that information. And, of course, the standard advice is to set speakers to Small with crossovers of about 80Hz. This aspect of HT is one of the most confusing to many HT owners. Why did my AVR set my speakers to X, and what should they really be set to?

The only thing that is perhaps more confusing is, why does my subwoofer sound so soft after a calibration? The answer is that all of the channels in an HT system are initially intended to play at the same volume at the MLP. But, we don't hear bass frequencies as well as other frequencies, depending on the listening level. So, we have to adjust our subwoofer volumes to suit our own listening levels and preferences, after a calibration. If there were more information circulated on why AVR's set speakers the way they do during a calibration, and why they set subwoofer volumes the way they do, life would be simpler for most HT owners.

Both of those things are explained in detail in the Guide, linked in my signature, but I'm not sure how to make the explanations any more available to people who are curious. They are certainly natural questions for anyone to ask.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

Last edited by mthomas47; 01-22-2019 at 06:43 PM. Reason: Clarification
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post #30299 of 31234 Old 01-22-2019, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magellan55 View Post
Heck my Sony AVR sets my tiny 3" Take sats to "large" during cal! They only go down to maybe 100 Hz.

Is there an AVR that DOESN'T set speakers to large during cal?
Hi,

Darth already gave you a good answer, but I will expand on it a little bit. When you put a speaker (or a subwoofer) inside a room, its bass capabilities change, partly as a result of boundary gain (proximity to walls which amplify the bass frequencies). Speakers can also have bass attenuated, due to room modes, so the bass capabilities can be reduced by the room placement, too. Having an AVR detect speakers with 3" woofers as "Large" is pretty unusual, but the basic principle is the same for all AVR's and calibration procedures.

When a calibration is performed, most AVR's will be measuring the frequency response at the main listening position and assigning settings of Large, or Small with a crossover, based on their <40Hz response. If the speaker (or pair) measures <40Hz at the MLP, the speaker is set to Large. And, if the speaker measures higher than 40Hz, the speaker is set to Small and a crossover is assigned. Some calibration systems are probably more accurate in their measurements than others, but I believe they are all working on the same basic principles.

That initial assignment is not a recommendation. So, your Sony AVR is not telling you that you should operate your little satellite speakers as Large, or even with a 40Hz or 60Hz crossover. It is merely informing you that it detected a FR consistent with its programming for Large. It is up to the listener to decide what to do with that information. And, of course, the standard advice is to set speakers to Small with crossovers of about 80Hz. This aspect of HT is one of the most confusing to many HT owners. Why did my AVR set my speakers to X, and what should they really be set to?

The only thing that is perhaps more confusing is, why does my subwoofer sound so soft after a calibration? The answer is that all of the channels in an HT system are initially intended to play at the same volume at the MLP. But, we don't hear bass frequencies as well as other frequencies, depending on the listening level. So, we have to adjust our subwoofer volumes to suit our own listening levels and preferences, after a calibration. If there were more information circulated on why AVR's set speakers the way they do during a calibration, and why they set subwoofer volumes the way they do, life would be simpler for most HT owners. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif[/IMG]

Both of those things are explained in detail in the Guide, linked in my signature, but I'm not sure how to make the explanations any more available to people who are curious. They are certainly natural questions for anyone to ask. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]

Regards,
Mike
Hey Mike, would you be able to take a stab at the question I asked Austin Jerry about 6 posts ago? If you have experience with this, that is...(I’m guessing you do lol)

Sony 75Z9D, Samsung 65JS9500
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post #30300 of 31234 Old 01-22-2019, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
Questions about REW with multiple SVS subs

Hey @Austin Jerry I would very much like to do REW for my upcoming PC4000s when they arrive

At the beginning of your REW document you say to have a tape measure or laser pointer...is this negated or better with the MiniDSP 2x4? Also, I know it says to have a laptop or MacBook...would a Mac mini be ok with a Bluetooth keyboard and mouse?

Also I have a umik but not a mic stand...is this ok?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
Hey Mike, would you be able to take a stab at the question I asked Austin Jerry about 6 posts ago? If you have experience with this, that is...(I’m guessing you do lol)
Hi,

Like a lot of the HT questions that people ask, some of the ones you are asking are more complicated and time consuming to answer than they sound. And, for every answer, however complete it seemed to the person who gives it, another question is bound to occur to you. Starting to learn REW from scratch is a process. You will get much better help, over a period of time, by posting your questions on the REW thread.

This is a link to Page 1 of that thread. Jerry posts there all the time, and his expertise with REW greatly exceeds mine.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/91-au...et-graphs.html

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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