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post #30331 of 31460 Old 01-27-2019, 12:29 AM
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Hi to anyone who can help. Need some info on my pb4000, it isn’t to be found anywhere in the manuals, i am daisy chaining my pb4000 to another sub, what are the line in and out voltage specs for it?



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post #30332 of 31460 Old 01-27-2019, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Geronimo.USMC View Post
Hi guys. I'm planning to run DIRAC on my RMC when they release it. I have two SVS SB16-ULTRAs. Each Ultra has a 3 band PEQ in it. I already see I have a huge fat peak at 70hz ob both, and smaller nulls in one sub's position .What would you guys do, and why?


Apply the PEQ from the subs to flatten the summed bass before DIRAC.


Just run DIRAC


Use the sub's PEQ after DIRAC to further flatten


Or, something else.


I'll be using REW to help compare.
Hi,

There is always some quality of trial-and-error in this this, but in my experience, most people have better success by making final adjustments after running Audyssey, or Dirac, or ARC. The exception might be where the initial problem is so severe that the automated room EQ just can't affect it. But, that really shouldn't be a problem in the situation you describe. Dirac shouldn't have any trouble pulling down a large peak at 70Hz. (Pulling up really large areas of cancellation is a much more difficult problem than pulling down peaks.)

As for the small nulls at one sub's position, you really won't know what happens until you run Dirac. As you know, it will EQ both subs together, and their combined response may take care of the problem to start with. If not, pulling-up small dips in the FR is typically well within Dirac's capabilities.

Regards,
Mike
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* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #30333 of 31460 Old 01-27-2019, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geronimo.USMC View Post
Hi guys. I'm planning to run DIRAC on my RMC when they release it. I have two SVS SB16-ULTRAs. Each Ultra has a 3 band PEQ in it. I already see I have a huge fat peak at 70hz ob both, and smaller nulls in one sub's position .What would you guys do, and why?


Apply the PEQ from the subs to flatten the summed bass before DIRAC.


Just run DIRAC


Use the sub's PEQ after DIRAC to further flatten


Or, something else.


I'll be using REW to help compare.
Speaking from very recent experience with my PB16 Ultras (using Audyssey not DIRAC), I had a much better result with this order:

(1) use REW to find sub locations with the most flat frequency response

(2) adjusting phase/polarity as needed

(3) run Audyssey

(4) set PEQ to flatten FR

I tried different orders and it helped me the most to have PEQ options post room correction.
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post #30334 of 31460 Old 01-27-2019, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

There is always some quality of trial-and-error in this this, but in my experience, most people have better success by making final adjustments after running Audyssey, or Dirac, or ARC. The exception might be where the initial problem is so severe that the automated room EQ just can't affect it. But, that really shouldn't be a problem in the situation you describe. Dirac shouldn't have any trouble pulling down a large peak at 70Hz. (Pulling up really large areas of cancellation is a much more difficult problem than pulling down peaks.)

As for the small nulls at one sub's position, you really won't know what happens until you run Dirac. As you know, it will EQ both subs together, and their combined response may take care of the problem to start with. If not, pulling-up small dips in the FR is typically well within Dirac's capabilities.

Regards,
Mike
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctsv510 View Post
Speaking from very recent experience with my PB16 Ultras (using Audyssey not DIRAC), I had a much better result with this order:

(1) use REW to find sub locations with the most flat frequency response

(2) adjusting phase/polarity as needed

(3) run Audyssey

(4) set PEQ to flatten FR

I tried different orders and it helped me the most to have PEQ options post room correction.
Thanks for the input guys. I definitely will be using REW.
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post #30335 of 31460 Old 01-28-2019, 02:41 AM
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I'm toying with upgrading my subwoofer system. We only watch movies in a very small room (11 x 12) with one doorway. Speaker-wise I have SVS Ultras across the front powered by a Yamaha 1080. Presently I have two SVS SB 1000's. I'm wondering if there would be an advantage / benefit to replace the 1000's with the SB 2000 or even the SB 3000? Or, perhaps, be happy with what I got and maybe add the Anti-mode 8033 to the chain? Thoughts / suggestions would be appreciated.
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post #30336 of 31460 Old 01-28-2019, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abba1 View Post
I'm toying with upgrading my subwoofer system. We only watch movies in a very small room (11 x 12) with one doorway. Speaker-wise I have SVS Ultras across the front powered by a Yamaha 1080. Presently I have two SVS SB 1000's. I'm wondering if there would be an advantage / benefit to replace the 1000's with the SB 2000 or even the SB 3000? Or, perhaps, be happy with what I got and maybe add the Anti-mode 8033 to the chain? Thoughts / suggestions would be appreciated.
I'm not real sure what would be the best, there is a group on FB called " Home theater on a budget" there are several guys that run SVS in the group and the admin has tested all of the svs speakers/subs and is very knowledgeable, mabye give that a shot if you don't find the answer you are looking for here.

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post #30337 of 31460 Old 01-28-2019, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abba1 View Post
I'm toying with upgrading my subwoofer system. We only watch movies in a very small room (11 x 12) with one doorway. Speaker-wise I have SVS Ultras across the front powered by a Yamaha 1080. Presently I have two SVS SB 1000's. I'm wondering if there would be an advantage / benefit to replace the 1000's with the SB 2000 or even the SB 3000? Or, perhaps, be happy with what I got and maybe add the Anti-mode 8033 to the chain? Thoughts / suggestions would be appreciated.
The first question is what is your primary objective? What is it you’re looking for in terms of performance you feel is currently lacking with the SB1000’s? See my previous post below...

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...l#post57471146
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post #30338 of 31460 Old 01-28-2019, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geronimo.USMC View Post
Hi guys. I'm planning to run DIRAC on my RMC when they release it. I have two SVS SB16-ULTRAs. Each Ultra has a 3 band PEQ in it. I already see I have a huge fat peak at 70hz ob both, and smaller nulls in one sub's position .What would you guys do, and why?


Apply the PEQ from the subs to flatten the summed bass before DIRAC.


Just run DIRAC


Use the sub's PEQ after DIRAC to further flatten


Or, something else.


I'll be using REW to help compare.
Hi,

There is always some quality of trial-and-error in this this, but in my experience, most people have better success by making final adjustments after running Audyssey, or Dirac, or ARC. The exception might be where the initial problem is so severe that the automated room EQ just can't affect it. But, that really shouldn't be a problem in the situation you describe. Dirac shouldn't have any trouble pulling down a large peak at 70Hz. (Pulling up really large areas of cancellation is a much more difficult problem than pulling down peaks.)

As for the small nulls at one sub's position, you really won't know what happens until you run Dirac. As you know, it will EQ both subs together, and their combined response may take care of the problem to start with. If not, pulling-up small dips in the FR is typically well within Dirac's capabilities.

Regards,
Mike
This is why audio and home theatre is so confusing...

I essentially asked the same question in the REW thread and the NAD 758 thread (which includes DIRAC) and was told to do sub calibration (REW and MiniDSP stuff) BEFORE doing DIRAC

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post #30339 of 31460 Old 01-28-2019, 09:38 AM
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Is there a side-by-side photo of the SB2000 and SB3000 somewhere?

I know the dimensions from the spec sheets, but I would find a visual comparison between the two more helpful

I checked the past 15 pages of this thread, and didn't find any.
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post #30340 of 31460 Old 01-28-2019, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
This is why audio and home theatre is so confusing...

I essentially asked the same question in the REW thread and the NAD 758 thread (which includes DIRAC) and was told to do sub calibration (REW and MiniDSP stuff) BEFORE doing DIRAC
Welcome to the age of technology! I find aspects of my smartphone and computer confusing at times--or really anything involving a microprocessor, where I don't fully understand the function and the rules which govern the operation. And, I never fully understand everything (or sometimes, anything)!

Here is something you really need to understand at the outset, though. REW is just a system of measurement. It doesn't actually change anything. It just measures your frequency response, so of course, you would want to do that first to give you a before-and-after picture of what's happening. Whether you try to use something like a miniDSP, or the PEQ controls in your subwoofer, before running Dirac or after running Dirac, depends on the specific problems you are trying to address. And, there is some trial-and-error involved in that with Audyssey, or Dirac, or whatever.

A simple way to think about it is: big problem--try to fix it before running room EQ; small problem--just make tweaks after running room EQ. But, even that isn't a hard-and-fast rule. That's why you keep hearing the advice to experiment to find out what actually works best. If you are looking for set-it and forget it techniques, there aren't many that don't require some degree of effort. Just like operating a DVR, or a smartphone, or a computer, there is some learning curve involved.

Regards,
Mike
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post #30341 of 31460 Old 01-28-2019, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by tezster View Post
Is there a side-by-side photo of the SB2000 and SB3000 somewhere?

I know the dimensions from the spec sheets, but I would find a visual comparison between the two more helpful

I checked the past 15 pages of this thread, and didn't find any.
Better yet...many people build a simple mock up from cardboard boxes and place them about their rooms. The actual physical boxes provide far more information than pictures.

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post #30342 of 31460 Old 01-28-2019, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
This is why audio and home theatre is so confusing...

I essentially asked the same question in the REW thread and the NAD 758 thread (which includes DIRAC) and was told to do sub calibration (REW and MiniDSP stuff) BEFORE doing DIRAC
Welcome to the age of technology! [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif[/IMG] I find aspects of my smartphone and computer confusing at times--or really anything involving a microprocessor, where I don't fully understand the function and the rules which govern the operation. And, I never fully understand everything (or sometimes, anything)!

Here is something you really need to understand at the outset, though. REW is just a system of measurement. It doesn't actually change anything. It just measures your frequency response, so of course, you would want to do that first to give you a before-and-after picture of what's happening. Whether you try to use something like a miniDSP, or the PEQ controls in your subwoofer, before running Dirac or after running Dirac, depends on the specific problems you are trying to address. And, there is some trial-and-error involved in that with Audyssey, or Dirac, or whatever.

A simple way to think about it is: big problem--try to fix it before running room EQ; small problem--just make tweaks after running room EQ. But, even that isn't a hard-and-fast rule. That's why you keep hearing the advice to experiment to find out what actually works best. If you are looking for set-it and forget it techniques, there aren't many that don't require some degree of effort. Just like operating a DVR, or a smartphone, or a computer, there is some learning curve involved.

Regards,
Mike
That really makes sense and puts the big picture/process into perspective-thanks again mike!
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post #30343 of 31460 Old 01-28-2019, 04:32 PM
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Dirac sees two (or more) subwoofers as one, so any problem with integration of two (or more) subwoofers with each other should be addressed prior Dirac.
The most obvious case would be cancelation on some frequencies which could be fixed by positioning and/or delay/phase settings, but also if some major peak in FR originate from just one subwoofer it's better to fix it at least partially using PEQs on problematic subwoofer prior running Dirac (or any other room EQ).
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post #30344 of 31460 Old 01-29-2019, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
If the SB3000 were available to you, I would probably recommend against trying to combine it with your SB1000's. I think it is easier to go up one model than it is two models. The SB3000 would be a lot more powerful than the SB1000's, and the shape of the frequency response would change more, too.
Hey again Mike!

I've managed to locate a SVS dealer that has SB-3000 in stock and that made me thinking - what if I get a single SB-3000 now and pair it with two stacked SB-1000s for the moment, while simultaneously putting them on sale and after they are gone get another SB-3000 in their place. I can put stacked 1000s ti the right of the TV and put the 3000 under my work table where the second 1000 is now. What do you think, sound like a good plan?

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post #30345 of 31460 Old 01-29-2019, 04:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Demetri Zuev View Post
Hey again Mike!

I've managed to locate a SVS dealer that has SB-3000 in stock and that made me thinking - what if I get a single SB-3000 now and pair it with two stacked SB-1000s for the moment, while simultaneously putting them on sale and after they are gone get another SB-3000 in their place. I can put stacked 1000s ti the right of the TV and put the 3000 under my work table where the second 1000 is now. What do you think, sound like a good plan?
Sounds like a plan stan. I had a SB1000 and 2000 paired up. Sold the 1000 and have a SB3000 coming this week to pair up with a 2000.

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post #30346 of 31460 Old 01-29-2019, 04:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tezster View Post
Is there a side-by-side photo of the SB2000 and SB3000 somewhere?

I know the dimensions from the spec sheets, but I would find a visual comparison between the two more helpful

I checked the past 15 pages of this thread, and didn't find any.
I can post a pic once i get my SB3000 this week .
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post #30347 of 31460 Old 01-29-2019, 05:14 AM
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Sounds like a plan stan. I had a SB1000 and 2000 paired up. Sold the 1000 and have a SB3000 coming this week to pair up with a 2000.
Did the play well together? Have you ran into any issues with that setup?

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post #30348 of 31460 Old 01-29-2019, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Demetri Zuev View Post
Hey again Mike!

I've managed to locate a SVS dealer that has SB-3000 in stock and that made me thinking - what if I get a single SB-3000 now and pair it with two stacked SB-1000s for the moment, while simultaneously putting them on sale and after they are gone get another SB-3000 in their place. I can put stacked 1000s ti the right of the TV and put the 3000 under my work table where the second 1000 is now. What do you think, sound like a good plan?
Hi,

I think that buying an SB3000, and adding a second one when you can, is a terrific idea. I like the thought of stacking the SB1000's next to the TV, but I would consider putting the SB3000 further away, perhaps at position 3. It will be stronger than the combined SB1000's, and that will make level-matching easier.

Don't forget to level-match the two SB1000's, stacked. You can use your two sub outs to do that. Then, once they are level-matched with each other, you can Y-connect them into one sub out, and level-match the pair of SB1000's with the SB3000.

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #30349 of 31460 Old 01-29-2019, 02:14 PM
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my 10x10x15 open on a side sounds good with the two BICs,ran line level with front to rear fade on the left channel for game and music use mostly


but my SVS Ultra/2(2006),there is a unit to be braggadocios about,20x30x15 with the open to this other room and it fills well
no problems presented with just a few user marks left in the walnut finish
would purchase again

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post #30350 of 31460 Old 01-29-2019, 03:39 PM
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Did the play well together? Have you ran into any issues with that setup?
They played fine as wine and no fuss or muss on setup. It was better than one SB13 Ultra i had in my bedroom. So i would think my new SB3000 should do as well with my SB2000.

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post #30351 of 31460 Old 01-29-2019, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abba1 View Post
I'm toying with upgrading my subwoofer system. We only watch movies in a very small room (11 x 12) with one doorway. Speaker-wise I have SVS Ultras across the front powered by a Yamaha 1080. Presently I have two SVS SB 1000's. I'm wondering if there would be an advantage / benefit to replace the 1000's with the SB 2000 or even the SB 3000? Or, perhaps, be happy with what I got and maybe add the Anti-mode 8033 to the chain? Thoughts / suggestions would be appreciated.
While I would encourage someone shopping to go for the newer SB2000 if they can afford the relatively small upcharge (at least in the US), I'm not sure it's a big enough upgrade over an existing SB1000 to be worth the effort. Probably the biggest difference is the more gentle ramp-off on the low end, which will allow you to take much more advantage of room gain in that small room. But going to an SB3000 should be a good upgrade :-) Just be advised it's a good bit deeper (size, not just sound) than your SB1000.
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post #30352 of 31460 Old 01-29-2019, 07:50 PM
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anybody know who actually makes the sledge amps in the 4000 series ?
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post #30353 of 31460 Old 01-30-2019, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by abba1 View Post
I'm toying with upgrading my subwoofer system. We only watch movies in a very small room (11 x 12) with one doorway. Speaker-wise I have SVS Ultras across the front powered by a Yamaha 1080. Presently I have two SVS SB 1000's. I'm wondering if there would be an advantage / benefit to replace the 1000's with the SB 2000 or even the SB 3000? Or, perhaps, be happy with what I got and maybe add the Anti-mode 8033 to the chain? Thoughts / suggestions would be appreciated.
I was in the same boat as you are, after much reading about people's experiences with 2000 and 3000, and considering that 3000 is the latest in SVS tech, plus the full app control feature, I've decided to go for SB-3000 and get another one when I can. The beast is arriving tomorrow, so I will post my impressions soon.
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post #30354 of 31460 Old 01-30-2019, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by nodoubt View Post
anybody know who actually makes the sledge amps in the 4000 series ?

This has been asked before and I never figured who did. When my 2007 PB 13 Ultra went bad Ed at SVS was awesome to work with. I thought about a Class D table amp like a Crown etc but it did not have adjustable DSP. I went back with new Sledge plate amp from SVS, the 5 year warranty and honest Customer Service.
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post #30355 of 31460 Old 01-30-2019, 08:16 PM
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My previous post appears to have gotten buried on the previous page of this thread without any reply so i'd like to re ask my question, I ended up re running the audyssey XT32 calibration on my Onkyo nR818 last week, did the full 8 positions in my living room, this time around audyssey set the volume for my SVS SB3000 to -6.5db, i tested some music material after the calibration and bass was a bit too much to my liking so i manually adjusted the volume level for the subwoofer channel on the AVR to -10db, I spoke to SVS customer service today and thats what they recommended me to do. they said its most likely room gain that is causing the bass to feel a bit too much so adjusting the volume on the AVR is the way to go, the actual volume gain on the subwoofer itself is -10db and they recommend leaving that as is. Dynamic EQ is on for all my sources, Reference level offset is set to 0 / MOVIE for all my sources except for the HDTV Source which is set to 10db / Movie

I wouldn't get better softer and smoother bass (which is what i want) if i was to adjust the actual gain level on the SB3000 from -10 to something lower and then re run audyssey XT32 yet again right? Is it true that its better leaving the gain on the SB3000 at -10 and simply adjusting the AVR Subwoofer Channel Level to a point where i like the impact of the bass?
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post #30356 of 31460 Old 01-31-2019, 10:13 AM
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the new models make me need more cash flow,some sweet equipment to be had
long live super sound options and power users with the desire to wield
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post #30357 of 31460 Old 01-31-2019, 12:22 PM
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I can post a pic once i get my SB3000 this week .
Here it is next to the SB2000. Not much bigger. Does lots of kick compared to the SB1000 when used with the SB2000.

I don't see my pics showing up for some reason.

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post #30358 of 31460 Old 01-31-2019, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post
My previous post appears to have gotten buried on the previous page of this thread without any reply so i'd like to re ask my question, I ended up re running the audyssey XT32 calibration on my Onkyo nR818 last week, did the full 8 positions in my living room, this time around audyssey set the volume for my SVS SB3000 to -6.5db, i tested some music material after the calibration and bass was a bit too much to my liking so i manually adjusted the volume level for the subwoofer channel on the AVR to -10db, I spoke to SVS customer service today and thats what they recommended me to do. they said its most likely room gain that is causing the bass to feel a bit too much so adjusting the volume on the AVR is the way to go, the actual volume gain on the subwoofer itself is -10db and they recommend leaving that as is. Dynamic EQ is on for all my sources, Reference level offset is set to 0 / MOVIE for all my sources except for the HDTV Source which is set to 10db / Movie

I wouldn't get better softer and smoother bass (which is what i want) if i was to adjust the actual gain level on the SB3000 from -10 to something lower and then re run audyssey XT32 yet again right? Is it true that its better leaving the gain on the SB3000 at -10 and simply adjusting the AVR Subwoofer Channel Level to a point where i like the impact of the bass?
I might be wrong, but I believe either function, using the AVR sub trim or the gain on the sub would result in the same thing. Both are allegedly adjusting the bass by .5 or 1db at time. So I wouldn't bother running Audessey again.

Also, it's probably easier to adjust the bass using the app for the sub than to dig into the AVR menu.
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post #30359 of 31460 Old 01-31-2019, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post
My previous post appears to have gotten buried on the previous page of this thread without any reply so i'd like to re ask my question, I ended up re running the audyssey XT32 calibration on my Onkyo nR818 last week, did the full 8 positions in my living room, this time around audyssey set the volume for my SVS SB3000 to -6.5db, i tested some music material after the calibration and bass was a bit too much to my liking so i manually adjusted the volume level for the subwoofer channel on the AVR to -10db, I spoke to SVS customer service today and thats what they recommended me to do. they said its most likely room gain that is causing the bass to feel a bit too much so adjusting the volume on the AVR is the way to go, the actual volume gain on the subwoofer itself is -10db and they recommend leaving that as is. Dynamic EQ is on for all my sources, Reference level offset is set to 0 / MOVIE for all my sources except for the HDTV Source which is set to 10db / Movie

I wouldn't get better softer and smoother bass (which is what i want) if i was to adjust the actual gain level on the SB3000 from -10 to something lower and then re run audyssey XT32 yet again right? Is it true that its better leaving the gain on the SB3000 at -10 and simply adjusting the AVR Subwoofer Channel Level to a point where i like the impact of the bass?
Hi,

Audyssey set my PB16 to -9.5 in AVR which was -16 on the sub. I then boosted AVR to -6.5 and use the remote for the sub to increase or decrease volume depending on material. I never go over the -16 volume on the sub unless i'm running not DEQ and even then it would be a couple of db.
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post #30360 of 31460 Old 02-01-2019, 09:42 AM
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Thought I would post this here. I had another thread asking for advice, and got some really good advice on several models of subs. My space is a weird shape, but is only about 294sq ft, and 2205cu ft. I currently have an Outlaw LFM-Compact 10", and a ED A2-300. Both are downward firing on thin carpeted concrete. They set as end tables on both sides of my viewing couch. I just ordered a pair of PB3000's to replace them. I think they will be a considerable upgrade to what I currently have. I don't have the room up front to put the subs there. So I ended up pulling my couch out away from the back wall, and plan on putting the new subs behind the couch. Which saves me from having to run new sub cables, since that is where my existing cables come out now. It does not look as aesthetically good when you walk into the room, but who cares. I'm usually the only one down there watching anyway. Also it does move my viewing distance to around 8', which is better for my 65" TV. It also moves me close enough to actually be able to read the tiny display on my Marantz. I went with the PD3000's for a five reasons. 1. I've always had ported subs, and was hesitant on going sealed. B. Was the footprint compared to other brands. I need the couch not to hit them if I recline all the way back. 3. The feq graphs on these looked as good or better to me, as some of the others people were recommending. D. With them being behind my couch, having the app will make adjusting them much easier. 5. I have also wanted to try SVS subs since I first heard of them years ago. I know that I could of gotten something for less money, but sometimes the heart wants what the heart wants. Now I just can't wait for them to arrive so I can start playing with them.

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