Official SVS Owners/Support Thread. - Page 1032 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #30931 of 31793 Old 04-19-2019, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by gene4ht View Post
Thanks for clarifying some of the possible confusion for the OP. As you've suggested, much of his eventual satisfaction and performance expectations will be highly dependent on the physical parameters of his relatively small space and its interaction with his chosen sub type. I'll stand by my belief that auditioning both the SB2000 and the PB2000 will provide him the greatest degree of understanding and knowledge...hopefully it's an available offering for him.
There is only one store here that sells svs stuff that i know off. That store does not allow a in home trial. I could only return if the box is not open.
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post #30932 of 31793 Old 04-19-2019, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Droidboi View Post
There is only one store here that sells svs stuff that i know off. That store does not allow a in home trial. I could only return if the box is not open.
It's unfortunate that business policies/practicies are not uniform across the globe. SVS's Bill of Rights is an excellent benefit for the consumer. Hopefully, international laws, duties, taxation, politics, etc. will allow improved practices in the near future. Any chance you may be able to source SVS products outside of Sweden with more favorable business practices?

@Ed Mullen ...just thinking out loud...is it possible, feasible, or contractually legal for SVS to publish the dealers and/or countries where the Bill of Rights are offered?
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post #30933 of 31793 Old 04-19-2019, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gene4ht View Post
It's unfortunate that business policies/practicies are not uniform across the globe. SVS's Bill of Rights is an excellent benefit for the consumer. Hopefully, international laws, duties, taxation, politics, etc. will allow improved practices in the near future. Any chance you may be able to source SVS products outside of Sweden with more favorable business practices?

@Ed Mullen ...just thinking out loud...is it possible, feasible, or contractually legal for SVS to publish the dealers and/or countries where the Bill of Rights are offered?
International dealers are independent businesses which carry many different audio brands. These businesses each have their own set of consumerism policies which apply to all brands they sell.

So it's always best for the prospective customer to contact that retailer directly for their complete set of consumerism policies - so they can make an informed decision before purchasing.

SVS is both an audio brand and a retailer (because we sell our own products). The SVS Bill of Rights is our set of consumerism policies as a retailer, not as an audio brand.

Some aspects of the Bill of Rights - like our 5 year warranty - apply worldwide. Even if the retailer doesn't normally offer a 5 year warranty, we'll cover it directly if needed.

This is more about consumer policies like in-home audition, return policy and shipping costs, the 1-year upgrade program, etc. Those are all consumerism policies we offer as a retailer and other authorized SVS dealers are not obligated to adopt them - they all have their own consumer policies.
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post #30934 of 31793 Old 04-19-2019, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
International dealers are independent businesses which carry many different audio brands. These businesses each have their own set of consumerism policies which apply to all brands they sell.

So it's always best for the prospective customer to contact that retailer directly for their complete set of consumerism policies - so they can make an informed decision before purchasing.

SVS is both an audio brand and a retailer (because we sell our own products). The SVS Bill of Rights is our set of consumerism policies as a retailer, not as an audio brand.
Thanks Ed! That provides perfect clarity for the Bill of Rights policy!
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post #30935 of 31793 Old 04-19-2019, 11:32 PM
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Who here has a PC-2000 sub? I'm considering that one in my potential upgrade from the SB-1000. Either that or the SB-3000.

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post #30936 of 31793 Old 04-20-2019, 12:34 PM
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Has anyone paired the SVS Ultra Surrounds with another speaker maker in the front stage? In my case it would be Magico A3s? Also, can anyone offer an opinion of the Ultra surround in general. I was considering then for sides and rears? I need a wall mounted speaker option as there is only about 2.5 feet between my theater side walls and the seating. Thanks in advance!


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post #30937 of 31793 Old 04-21-2019, 06:24 AM
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How to do (dual) sub crawl with PC 4000

I have two Pc 4000s and my understanding is that do find best placement and avoid nulls that I have to move my sub to the MLP and then do the sub crawl. I have 2 questions or challenges with that

1. The PC4000 is huge-to put on top of couch seat is heavy and massive but I guess can still be done-any issue with that?

2. More importantly, the sub is down fireing and in the sub crawl recommendations they said don’t do it if the diaphragm is pressed down into the seat. Because it’s a long, large, cylinder, I’m not sure how else to do that.

Any advise for doing a sub crawl for dual large cylinder subs? Is this the best way (to bring one sub to put on seat at MLP)?

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post #30938 of 31793 Old 04-21-2019, 07:26 AM
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@Chirosamsung
How old are you?
You have A LOT of very strange questions


p.s. Use microphone and REW.

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post #30939 of 31793 Old 04-21-2019, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
Summit hifi near Toronto Canada is where I purchased from and does offer the SVS bill of rights. Aamir was excellent to work with when I purchased my dual PC4000 in my 12x17.5 room.

Tell him Alex from Brooklin sent you
I agree that Aamir at Summit is excellent to deal with but the bill of rights is not as good as dealing with SVS in the United States. On the 45 day trial if you are not satisfied you must pay the return shipping which is probably close to $100.
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post #30940 of 31793 Old 04-21-2019, 08:57 AM
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@Chirosamsung
How old are you?
You have A LOT of very strange questions [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]


p.s. Use microphone and REW.
How is asking about a sub crawl for proper placement and how to accomplish that with the suggested placement of the sub in the MLP a strange question??

Do people not use sub crawl to get proper placement before they EQ dual subs with a umik and REW??? That’s what I have read is best.

The PC4000 is a beast and would be challenging to place in the main seat and tricky since it is down firing. What is strange about asking about that?

Btw, I’m 38 and I’m a health professional. I’m NOT a audio professional-hence the “strange” questions...

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post #30941 of 31793 Old 04-21-2019, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
I have two Pc 4000s and my understanding is that do find best placement and avoid nulls that I have to move my sub to the MLP and then do the sub crawl. I have 2 questions or challenges with that

1. The PC4000 is huge-to put on top of couch seat is heavy and massive but I guess can still be done-any issue with that?

2. More importantly, the sub is down fireing and in the sub crawl recommendations they said don’t do it if the diaphragm is pressed down into the seat. Because it’s a long, large, cylinder, I’m not sure how else to do that.

Any advise for doing a sub crawl for dual large cylinder subs? Is this the best way (to bring one sub to put on seat at MLP)?
move the chair/sofa/etc and place the sub in that spot or spots for multiple...

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post #30942 of 31793 Old 04-21-2019, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
I have two Pc 4000s and my understanding is that do find best placement and avoid nulls that I have to move my sub to the MLP and then do the sub crawl. I have 2 questions or challenges with that

1. The PC4000 is huge-to put on top of couch seat is heavy and massive but I guess can still be done-any issue with that?

2. More importantly, the sub is down fireing and in the sub crawl recommendations they said don’t do it if the diaphragm is pressed down into the seat. Because it’s a long, large, cylinder, I’m not sure how else to do that.

Any advise for doing a sub crawl for dual large cylinder subs? Is this the best way (to bring one sub to put on seat at MLP)?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Winters View Post
move the chair/sofa/etc and place the sub in that spot or spots for multiple...

You can also put furniture sliders under the sub, and try different positions for the sub, while measuring/listening at your MLP. It is the relationship of subwoofer position and chair that matters. You can put the sub in your chair (at your listening height) and move around the room at subwoofer height (hence the idea of a crawl).

Or, you can move the sub around the room, returning each time to your chair to measure/listen. Either way works! If you move your chair and put the subwoofer where it was, I would elevate the sub to about the equivalent of the chair height. Again, it is the relationship of the subwoofer to the listening position that really matters.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #30943 of 31793 Old 04-21-2019, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
I have two Pc 4000s and my understanding is that do find best placement and avoid nulls that I have to move my sub to the MLP and then do the sub crawl. I have 2 questions or challenges with that

1. The PC4000 is huge-to put on top of couch seat is heavy and massive but I guess can still be done-any issue with that?

2. More importantly, the sub is down fireing and in the sub crawl recommendations they said don’t do it if the diaphragm is pressed down into the seat. Because it’s a long, large, cylinder, I’m not sure how else to do that.

Any advise for doing a sub crawl for dual large cylinder subs? Is this the best way (to bring one sub to put on seat at MLP)?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Winters View Post
move the chair/sofa/etc and place the sub in that spot or spots for multiple...

You can also put furniture sliders under the sub, and try different positions for the sub, while measuring/listening at your MLP. It is the relationship of subwoofer position and chair that matters. You can put the sub in your chair (at your listening height) and move around the room at subwoofer height (hence the idea of a crawl).

Or, you can move the sub around the room, returning each time to your chair to measure/listen. Either way works! If you move your chair and put the subwoofer where it was, I would elevate the sub to about the equivalent of the chair height. Again, it is the relationship of the subwoofer to the listening position that really matters.

Regards,
Mike
That all makes sense and thanks. Just curious though:

1. If one was to move the couch out of the way in order to put the sub in the right position, wouldn’t that tamper with/distort the true room sounds once the couch is back in its proper position? Ie you are measuring/listening for something with a huge object in a position it won’t be in once the sub is actually used after the measurements.

2. I still haven’t been given any advice on HOW to position/place my sub on my seating position since the PC4000 is a DOWN firing sub and every sub crawl page says to NOT place the sub down but recommends it for forward firing subs that are facing away from seat.

3. Because the PC4000 is very tall and the diaphragm (where the bass is produced) is at the bottom of the sub-do I have to further elevate the PC4000 so that the bottom part is close to head position?

4. When finding ideal room placements for dual subs does one do the sub crawl for each sub separately or do them with them both on?

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post #30944 of 31793 Old 04-21-2019, 02:20 PM
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@Chirosamsung

Forget the sub crawl and just use REW. If you must crawl, put the pc4000 on its side on the couch with the bottom at your mlp. You're going to to use REW anyway with 2 subs so you may as well just start there. It's going to be more accurate.
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post #30945 of 31793 Old 04-21-2019, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctsv510 View Post
@Chirosamsung

Forget the sub crawl and just use REW. If you must crawl, put the pc4000 on its side on the couch with the bottom at your mlp. You're going to to use REW anyway with 2 subs so you may as well just start there. It's going to be more accurate.
Ok, I’ll save the trouble of playing around with the sub crawl and just devote that time to learning REW.

It just seems so complex and daunting-but I guess all good things take time and patience 😛

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post #30946 of 31793 Old 04-21-2019, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
Ok, I’ll save the trouble of playing around with the sub crawl and just devote that time to learning REW.

It just seems so complex and daunting-but I guess all good things take time and patience 😛
It sounds that way until you just start using it. Then everything becomes much more clear. It does take time though.
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post #30947 of 31793 Old 04-21-2019, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
Ok, I’ll save the trouble of playing around with the sub crawl and just devote that time to learning REW.

It just seems so complex and daunting-but I guess all good things take time and patience 😛
That’s your best bet. Sub crawl is fine for a single sub but once you get into multiples REW is much better. When I knew I was adding a second sub that’s when I decided to jump into REW. I got a wireless adapter to open up placement options and just started measuring available locations. Once you figure out how to do a basic frequency response with REW (which is all that is needed for this purpose) subsequent sweeps are quick and easy and sometimes fun especially if you find physics interesting. I wound up discovering that both subs behind MLP in rear corners of our living room gave a reasonable frequency response with the advantage of more tactile response (closer to MLP) and better aesthetics for the room. I did observe that front/rear caddy corner gave flattest response (as often reported) but it wasn’t a large enough difference to make up for the other advantages. By the way I’m also a healthcare professional. I don’t know many colleagues that are into AV so good to see others here.

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post #30948 of 31793 Old 04-22-2019, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
I have two Pc 4000s and my understanding is that do find best placement and avoid nulls that I have to move my sub to the MLP and then do the sub crawl.

Any advise for doing a sub crawl for dual large cylinder subs? Is this the best way (to bring one sub to put on seat at MLP)?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
Ok, I’ll save the trouble of playing around with the sub crawl and just devote that time to learning REW.

It just seems so complex and daunting-but I guess all good things take time and patience 😛
The sub crawl is a surprisingly effective way to determine a good position for a subwoofer, but trying to find a suitable location for multiple subs does turn that process into something a bit more complicated. That's where a measuring system like REW comes into play; moving a mic instead of a sub is a whole lot easier. The software is free but the microphone and stand are not. Figure $100 or so for that pair. REW is an excellent piece of software - and the fact it doesn't cost anything is a huge bonus - but as you noted it's not the easiest application to learn, especially if audio is a hobby and not something you're interested in doing a 'deep dive' with. An alternative is Omnimic. It does cost more but it's easier to use. Omnimic is a self-contained system so there is nothing separate to buy or download, it all comes in the kit. If you decide to go the measurement route check out that as well.
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post #30949 of 31793 Old 04-22-2019, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by DT4 View Post
Thanks for replying Ed! Just wow =). My family and I are very happy with your products and your customer support, 2nd to none.

I read your comments immediately after moving the mains out 9 inches and finishing an 8 position Audyssey Calibration. Your remarks were spot on as the Audyssey induced Null remained after the new calibration and turning Audyssey On. I'll post a capture showing Audyssey On/Off, LFE, Front Pair Positive, Rear Pair Negative.

I'm short a Y splitter and placed and order for delivery tomorrow. Once that comes in, I'll perform the steps you mentioned and post the results here.

Thank you!

After receiving another Y splitter and having some time on my hands, went ahead and split Sub 1 out and sent it to all 4 subs (Capture 1)

Also since last update, ran a new RG6 Quad Shielded line from front to back. This allowed the removal of the Audio Transmitter / Receiver used to send the LFE signal to the back subs. I heard artifacts while watching a couple movies I had previously viewed and also while sending Pink Noise. I suspect the metal surface of the table the receiver was resting on must have caused interference or severely attenuated the signal. I also suspect the added delay was exaggerating an issue with my AVR: Having a 0-90ft scale in the UI but only allowing 0-30ft to be selected, Audyssey setting 38ft messing up delay / phase.

So at this point, I'm torn on which setup to use. They are very close IMO (Capture 2) . Do I use Sub 1 out, Y Split to all 4 subs or use Sub 1 for Front / Sub 2 for Back and let Audyssey handle it. Seems to be very close with an actual cable being used for the back subs.



Thoughts?
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post #30950 of 31793 Old 04-22-2019, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by confinoj View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
Ok, I’ll save the trouble of playing around with the sub crawl and just devote that time to learning REW.

It just seems so complex and daunting-but I guess all good things take time and patience 😛
That’s your best bet. Sub crawl is fine for a single sub but once you get into multiples REW is much better. When I knew I was adding a second sub that’s when I decided to jump into REW. I got a wireless adapter to open up placement options and just started measuring available locations. Once you figure out how to do a basic frequency response with REW (which is all that is needed for this purpose) subsequent sweeps are quick and easy and sometimes fun especially if you find physics interesting. I wound up discovering that both subs behind MLP in rear corners of our living room gave a reasonable frequency response with the advantage of more tactile response (closer to MLP) and better aesthetics for the room. I did observe that front/rear caddy corner gave flattest response (as often reported) but it wasn’t a large enough difference to make up for the other advantages. By the way I’m also a healthcare professional. I don’t know many colleagues that are into AV so good to see others here.
Thanks for that!

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Monitor Audio Gold 200(2), Gold 350, Gold 50(2), Gold CT280-IDC(4). SVS PC4000(2).
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post #30951 of 31793 Old 04-22-2019, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
I have two Pc 4000s and my understanding is that do find best placement and avoid nulls that I have to move my sub to the MLP and then do the sub crawl.

Any advise for doing a sub crawl for dual large cylinder subs? Is this the best way (to bring one sub to put on seat at MLP)?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
Ok, I’ll save the trouble of playing around with the sub crawl and just devote that time to learning REW.

It just seems so complex and daunting-but I guess all good things take time and patience 😛
The sub crawl is a surprisingly effective way to determine a good position for a subwoofer, but trying to find a suitable location for multiple subs does turn that process into something a bit more complicated. That's where a measuring system like REW comes into play; moving a mic instead of a sub is a whole lot easier. The software is free but the microphone and stand are not. Figure $100 or so for that pair. REW is an excellent piece of software - and the fact it doesn't cost anything is a huge bonus - but as you noted it's not the easiest application to learn, especially if audio is a hobby and not something you're interested in doing a 'deep dive' with. An alternative is Omnimic. It does cost more but it's easier to use. Omnimic is a self-contained system so there is nothing separate to buy or download, it all comes in the kit. If you decide to go the measurement route check out that as well.
Looking forward to diving in 🙂
Also, already have a umik and MiniDSP 2x4 HD (which I assume works for REW and dual subs...?)
So just need to do the learning and relearning!

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post #30952 of 31793 Old 04-22-2019, 03:11 PM
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After receiving another Y splitter and having some time on my hands, went ahead and split Sub 1 out and sent it to all 4 subs (Capture 1)

Also since last update, ran a new RG6 Quad Shielded line from front to back. This allowed the removal of the Audio Transmitter / Receiver used to send the LFE signal to the back subs. I heard artifacts while watching a couple movies I had previously viewed and also while sending Pink Noise. I suspect the metal surface of the table the receiver was resting on must have caused interference or severely attenuated the signal. I also suspect the added delay was exaggerating an issue with my AVR: Having a 0-90ft scale in the UI but only allowing 0-30ft to be selected, Audyssey setting 38ft messing up delay / phase.

So at this point, I'm torn on which setup to use. They are very close IMO (Capture 2) . Do I use Sub 1 out, Y Split to all 4 subs or use Sub 1 for Front / Sub 2 for Back and let Audyssey handle it. Seems to be very close with an actual cable being used for the back subs.

Thoughts?

Hi,

Of the two graphs, I prefer the first one. Ed's advice was spot-on, in my opinion. You seem to be getting a very nice low-bass house curve now that you are using the 16Hz Extended mode. That means that you should have plenty of headroom to spare if you want to try to bring-up some mid-bass dips. The dip at 40Hz in the first graph is probably too narrow to be audible, but I would probably try to do something about the larger one between about 56Hz and 70Hz.

Have you tried to experiment any more with your subwoofer positions in an effort to get a little better native response? If not, that might still be something that you could try. Once you have achieved your best post-Audyssey frequency response, I might look into using a miniDSP HD, if necessary, to bring-up any remaining mid-bass dips. That dip in the 56-70Hz range is right in the area where most people feel chest punch.

Something else you might try is adding a bump at 63Hz, via the Music pre-set on your PB16's. That is also something you would change after running Audyssey, and it would add about 3db right in the middle of that wide dip. That might be worth a try.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #30953 of 31793 Old 04-22-2019, 07:05 PM
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Hi,

Of the two graphs, I prefer the first one. Ed's advice was spot-on, in my opinion. You seem to be getting a very nice low-bass house curve now that you are using the 16Hz Extended mode. That means that you should have plenty of headroom to spare if you want to try to bring-up some mid-bass dips. The dip at 40Hz in the first graph is probably too narrow to be audible, but I would probably try to do something about the larger one between about 56Hz and 70Hz.

Have you tried to experiment any more with your subwoofer positions in an effort to get a little better native response? If not, that might still be something that you could try. Once you have achieved your best post-Audyssey frequency response, I might look into using a miniDSP HD, if necessary, to bring-up any remaining mid-bass dips. That dip in the 56-70Hz range is right in the area where most people feel chest punch.

Something else you might try is adding a bump at 63Hz, via the Music pre-set on your PB16's. That is also something you would change after running Audyssey, and it would add about 3db right in the middle of that wide dip. That might be worth a try.

Regards,
Mike

Hi Mike,

Thanks again for your feedback. I agree, Ed's suggestion provided the better result and decided to stick with that configuration. (IE Sub1 out Y-Split to all 4 Subs).

Earlier tonight I enabled the PEQ on the subs and added 3 each to address the dips in 40Hz and 56Hz - 70Hz. All subs had the same values and captured a REW after making minor adjustments to them all. In the end the best results were from: PEQ1 of 40Hz/+6db/10Q PEQ2 of 59Hz/+6db/10Q & 54Hz/+6db/10Q I kept the Q high to help address the problem areas without increasing the surrounding frequencies as much.

I've attached Capture1 which overlays 4 Subs / Audyssey On / Front Positive / Back Negative / 1 to 4 Mono Split with and without the PEQs applied. I'm pretty happy with the results and feel the PEQs helped significantly in the problem areas you mentioned.

Once again thank you for the suggestion of Extended Mode. As you mentioned the low frequencies really did improve. The slight loss of overall output (2db if I remember) is a good tradeoff IMO and not noticeable to me with 4 subs in the room.

RE: Sub Placement, I haven't moved them other than a few inches here or there around the room. I'm pretty OCD with symmetry which you've already noticed. After reading research from Todd Welti covering placement of multiple subwoofers, I'm pretty set on the FBQ setup. Future plans may include adding a wall to the right of the room to help segment the large open space in the basement. This would make it more in line with a dedicated theater room and adjust the acoustics accordingly.

Thanks again!
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5.4.4 - Subs: SVS PB16-Ultra x 4 | AVR: Denon AVR-X4200W | Ext Amp: Emotiva BasX A-150 | L&R: Polk RTiA7 | F&R Heights: Polk RTiA3 | SL&SR: Polk RTiA7 | C: Polk CSiA6 | Display: Sharp LC-70UH30U | UHD Source: Sony UBP-UX80

Last edited by DT4; 04-22-2019 at 07:11 PM. Reason: Adjusted graph to +5 vs +10
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post #30954 of 31793 Old 04-22-2019, 08:34 PM
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I am upgrading my home theater system. I'd appreciate your thoughts. I own an SVS Ultra Series speaker system (L,R,C,SL,SR) plus two SB-13 Ultra Subwoofers. We sit about 15 feet back from the speakers (as part of a great room). I just installed a Marantz AV8805 Pre/Pro and just ordered the Parasound Halo A 52+ Amplifier. SVS reports: Sensitivity: 87 dB (2.83V @ 1 meter full-space, 300-3kHz). Parasound reports: 180 watts RMS x 5 @ 8 Ω. I will use new balanced cables from pre/pro to amplifier.

I generally listen to multichannel (classical and jazz) surround music (SACD, etc). We also, of course, watch movies and streaming TV shows.

Thoughts? Marcus
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post #30955 of 31793 Old 04-22-2019, 08:38 PM
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Looking forward to diving in 🙂
Also, already have a umik and MiniDSP 2x4 HD (which I assume works for REW and dual subs...?)
So just need to do the learning and relearning!


I also agree rew will definitely be worth the effort. Curious though. If you wanted to do the crawl to start with, why not lay it on its side? Or lay a piece of wood on the cushion so the driver doesn’t make contact? That’s all.
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post #30956 of 31793 Old 04-22-2019, 09:18 PM
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pb -4000 plugged vs all open.
just a quick shot of mine after tweaking all 3 of my dsp filters.
it really does dig deeper in the extended mode

rew is really the deal if you want the most out of your sub.
would of had no idea how of got it this close by ear.
this is at mlp, roughly 10 feet away, with rew saying -20db on the sweep.
so i could of hit 120db or more if i would of kept pushing it to 0 db ?
still new to rew, thanks




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post #30957 of 31793 Old 04-23-2019, 07:12 AM
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@Chirosamsung

Forget the sub crawl and just use REW. If you must crawl, put the pc4000 on its side on the couch with the bottom at your mlp. You're going to to use REW anyway with 2 subs so you may as well just start there. It's going to be more accurate.
^+1

In situations where you already have duals and very likely have limited placement combinations - it's best to simply start measuring the FRs with REW.

I would start with both subs in your preferred locations and then measure Sub1, Sub2 and then Sub1+Sub2. Make sure they are level matched before measuring of course. Then we can see any room modes affecting each subwoofer individually, along with how they are interacting from a phasing standpoint and work from there.

If the results show a huge null for either subwoofer - try your other placement combinations and pick the best one as your starting baseline.
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post #30958 of 31793 Old 04-23-2019, 09:10 PM
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Anyone having problems waking up the new 3000 subs from auto mode? I received a sb3000 and haven't had time to play with it much yet but I did notice the 3000 doesn't seem to turn on in auto as easily the sb2000. I had them both in auto mode and plugged in to my receiver which has dual sub outputs. the 2000 was on the entire time I was watching tv while the 3000 was not. I finally had to go into the app to wake it up. the 2000 that I previously had in its place always turned on in auto mode when watching tv too so I know it's not the sub output from receiver. is there something i can do to make it more sensitive to the signal to turn on as easily as the 2000? maybe some setting on the 3000 needs adjusted? I dont want to have to increase the sub gain on the receiver when it works fine with the 2000s. the sub gain on the receiver is at negative 5 so right around where should be post auto calibration. thanks
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post #30959 of 31793 Old 04-24-2019, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by aschmoldt View Post
Anyone having problems waking up the new 3000 subs from auto mode? I received a sb3000 and haven't had time to play with it much yet but I did notice the 3000 doesn't seem to turn on in auto as easily the sb2000. I had them both in auto mode and plugged in to my receiver which has dual sub outputs. the 2000 was on the entire time I was watching tv while the 3000 was not. I finally had to go into the app to wake it up. the 2000 that I previously had in its place always turned on in auto mode when watching tv too so I know it's not the sub output from receiver. is there something i can do to make it more sensitive to the signal to turn on as easily as the 2000? maybe some setting on the 3000 needs adjusted? I dont want to have to increase the sub gain on the receiver when it works fine with the 2000s. the sub gain on the receiver is at negative 5 so right around where should be post auto calibration. thanks
What is the current volume setting on the SB-3000?

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post #30960 of 31793 Old 04-24-2019, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by nodoubt View Post
pb -4000 plugged vs all open.
just a quick shot of mine after tweaking all 3 of my dsp filters.
it really does dig deeper in the extended mode[IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif[/IMG]

rew is really the deal if you want the most out of your sub.
would of had no idea how of got it this close by ear.
this is at mlp, roughly 10 feet away, with rew saying -20db on the sweep.
so i could of hit 120db or more if i would of kept pushing it to 0 db ?
still new to rew, thanks




Is the red one extended mode??

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