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post #30991 of 31287 Old 05-02-2019, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
Kind of weird, never add an issue with my past PB12 Plus/2 and my present PB13 with the Auto On. From either RCA or XLR connection.
And since you have a Denon AVR, I do hear of this problem often. Just like my Marantz.
Glad you figure out a way around your problem
Ray
Yeah, it was more of me being picky that all 4 subs didn't turn on at the same time. =) No fault of SVS that I didn't run the trigger line to the back when I ran the new RG6 Quad last week haha. Minor oversight on my part.
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post #30992 of 31287 Old 05-02-2019, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by confinoj View Post
No no way to link them but would be a nice feature. The option with the fewest steps is to set presets on each.
Correct - and this is a BLE limitation and not an SVS coding/programming limitation. It's a common request, we're capable of doing it from a coding standpoint, but we can't implement due to BLE limitations.

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post #30993 of 31287 Old 05-02-2019, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by buzurk View Post
I have same wake issues with pb3000s, they take quite some volume on AVR to wake them, and still take a good 30 seconds of playing something

i have Y splitter, AVR set to +5db on both outputs and the subs set to -5db, its quite frustrating as my old 12s never done this
Just to be sure - do a reset to factory defaults in the app. This should not change the sensitivity of the auto-on circuit - but it never hurts to be thorough.

Also make sure none of the speaker channels are set to full-band or large. And generally I recommend a crossover of no deeper than 60 Hz, even for fairly bass-capable speakers.

The auto-on sensitivity for this amp platform is not any different than our other platforms. And you are already doing all the right steps with a Y splitter and the sub-out set to +5. So if the problem persists after the above changes, contact Customer Service at [email protected] for further assistance.
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post #30994 of 31287 Old 05-02-2019, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ed mullen View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by confinoj View Post
no no way to link them but would be a nice feature. The option with the fewest steps is to set presets on each.
correct - and this is a ble limitation and not an svs coding/programming limitation. It's a common request, we're capable of doing it from a coding standpoint, but we can't implement due to ble limitations.
ble?

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post #30995 of 31287 Old 05-02-2019, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
ble?
Bluetooth Low Energy - it's the name of the current Bluetooth protocol that the smart phone and connected device use to communicate.

We did some digging to see if BLE will allow a smart phone to connect to two devices at the same time. While it's technically possible, it's not currently supported - at least that was my understanding.

It's on the wish list for now - until then it's still only the touch of the screen to switch subs.

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post #30996 of 31287 Old 05-02-2019, 01:31 PM
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@Ed Mullen
That sounds like something from here:
http://programmingexcuses.com/




The limitation is just in one direction - BLE peripheral can only be connected to one central device at a time, but central device can be connected to multiple BLE peripherals.

BTW, why would application need connection to two (or more) subwoofers at the same time?
It's trivial to program the application to browse through all subwoofers associated with application and to apply the same settings to all of them.
User can do that manually from the very same application


Personally, I don't need this functionality, since the settings on my two subwoofers are different.
When needed, remote control is quite ok to switch between predefined presets on both subwoofers. Two clicks (one for each) and that's it.
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post #30997 of 31287 Old 05-02-2019, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DT4 View Post
Yeah, it was more of me being picky that all 4 subs didn't turn on at the same time. =) No fault of SVS that I didn't run the trigger line to the back when I ran the new RG6 Quad last week haha. Minor oversight on my part.

Glad it all work out for you, at the end
All is left, is to enjoy


Ray
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post #30998 of 31287 Old 05-03-2019, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delija View Post
@Ed Mullen
That sounds like something from here:
http://programmingexcuses.com/




The limitation is just in one direction - BLE peripheral can only be connected to one central device at a time, but central device can be connected to multiple BLE peripherals.

BTW, why would application need connection to two (or more) subwoofers at the same time?
It's trivial to program the application to browse through all subwoofers associated with application and to apply the same settings to all of them.
User can do that manually from the very same application


Personally, I don't need this functionality, since the settings on my two subwoofers are different.
When needed, remote control is quite ok to switch between predefined presets on both subwoofers. Two clicks (one for each) and that's it.
@Ed Mullen Maybe the coders of the app can do this as a workaround?

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post #30999 of 31287 Old 05-03-2019, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Ferrari_1996 View Post
@Ed Mullen Maybe the coders of the app can do this as a workaround?
As stated previously - it's on the wish list. I don't have a time frame for this feature. For now the app users will need to switch subs to adjust their respective volumes.

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post #31000 of 31287 Old 05-03-2019, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrari_1996 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Delija View Post
@Ed Mullen
That sounds like something from here:
http://programmingexcuses.com/

[IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif[/IMG]


The limitation is just in one direction - BLE peripheral can only be connected to one central device at a time, but central device can be connected to multiple BLE peripherals.

BTW, why would application need connection to two (or more) subwoofers at the same time?
It's trivial to program the application to browse through all subwoofers associated with application and to apply the same settings to all of them.
User can do that manually from the very same application [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]


Personally, I don't need this functionality, since the settings on my two subwoofers are different.
When needed, remote control is quite ok to switch between predefined presets on both subwoofers. Two clicks (one for each) and that's it.
@Ed Mullen Maybe the coders of the app can do this as a workaround?
+1

I think it’s pretty clear it’s on a lot of people’s wish list.

If it’s possible, hopefully you guys can make it happen...
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post #31001 of 31287 Old 05-04-2019, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
+1

I think it’s pretty clear it’s on a lot of people’s wish list.
Mhm. I mean, I'm almost certainly moving away from SVS to PSA or Rythmik (nothing wrong with my PB-1000, but SVS has competition, the aforementioned ID companies offer equally good customer service and more performance-per-dollar). One of the things that differentiates SVS from the rest is the app, but duals are the way to go and the app can improve with this configuration.

If I'm watching a movie/listening to music and I want to quickly change the bass level up or down, I want both subs to change at the same time, otherwise it's not much quicker than going to the AVR menu and adjusting the trims (you'd have to unlock your phone, find the app, open it, change the volume for subwoofer 1, switch subwoofer, change the volume for subwoofer 2).

I may consider upgrading to another SVS sub if I can control both subs at the same time, otherwise the value of the app is not as much and I'd rather my money go towards better performance instead (with one of the aforementioned ID companies).

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post #31002 of 31287 Old 05-04-2019, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Ferrari_1996 View Post
Mhm. I mean, I'm almost certainly moving away from SVS to PSA or Rythmik (nothing wrong with my PB-1000, but SVS has competition, the aforementioned ID companies offer equally good customer service and more performance-per-dollar). One of the things that differentiates SVS from the rest is the app, but duals are the way to go and the app can improve with this configuration.

If I'm watching a movie/listening to music and I want to quickly change the bass level up or down, I want both subs to change at the same time, otherwise it's not much quicker than going to the AVR menu and adjusting the trims (you'd have to unlock your phone, find the app, open it, change the volume for subwoofer 1, switch subwoofer, change the volume for subwoofer 2).

I may consider upgrading to another SVS sub if I can control both subs at the same time, otherwise the value of the app is not as much and I'd rather my money go towards better performance instead (with one of the aforementioned ID companies).
I use a Harmony remote, display screen/touch screen, and have a "sub 1 and 2 up and down" touch screen controls...makes it so much easier...
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post #31003 of 31287 Old 05-04-2019, 06:04 PM
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If I have bookshelf speakers and a SB-2000 which i love but sometimes i want more bass would buying full tower speakers be an improvement or would it complete too much with the sub?

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post #31004 of 31287 Old 05-04-2019, 08:46 PM
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If I have bookshelf speakers and a SB-2000 which i love but sometimes i want more bass would buying full tower speakers be an improvement or would it complete too much with the sub?

Hi Jim,

The tower speakers wouldn't compete with the subwoofer, but I think it's important for you to define what you mean when you say that you want more bass. I looked up your speakers, and I definitely think that you could get better bass with larger speakers. But, even if you have large and capable tower speakers, you would still want to use at least a 60Hz crossover for most content. A lot of people with tower speakers use an 80Hz crossover. The tower speakers are still going to be responsible for all of the upper bass content, and some of the mid-bass content down to a little below the crossover you choose.

With a 60Hz or 80Hz crossover, they can contribute quite a bit to the mid-bass sensation known as chest punch. That sensation occurs when a sudden percussive mid-bass sound, in the range from about 50Hz to 100Hz, occurs. Examples would include the strike of a kick drum or kettle drum, or a bass guitar chord in music; or with gunshots in movies. It does take some SPL to feel that sensation strongly with either subwoofers or with main speakers. That would be one aspect of having more bass.

Another aspect of having more bass would be for the frequencies below about 60Hz or 80Hz. Those frequencies would and should be played by your subwoofers. So, having either a more powerful subwoofer, or multiple subwoofers, would be the best answer for having more low-bass. For frequencies from about 35 or 40Hz up to your crossover to whatever speakers you use, sealed subwoofers work very well. If you want more bass in that range, then moving up to an SB3000, or to dual SB2000's would be a good solution.

If you want more bass below about 35 or 40Hz, then you may want to consider a ported subwoofer. We rarely directly experience the deep bass frequencies with music, although they lend some weight to what we are hearing. But, movies are full of bass special effects at frequencies below 35Hz. Everything from explosions, to earthquakes, to airplanes, to the footfall of a T-Rex, use those deep bass frequencies. And, we may feel them as much as we hear them. The deep bass frequencies are perceived as rumbling or thudding sensations.

Ported subwoofers are particularly strong, compared to sealed subs, below about 35Hz, and they are particularly good at reproducing the deep bass special effects in movies. They also have more low-bass tactile response than sealed subs. If that is what you want, then I would especially recommend trying a PB3000, because it would still be very strong in the mid-bass range and would have a lot more <35Hz bass than what you are getting now. And, it can also be used in sealed mode, if you wanted to compare the difference between ported and sealed.

What may have initially seemed like a simple question has led to a pretty long post. But, I felt it was necessary to write all of this in order to give you a fair answer to your question.

I really don't think that tower speakers would compete with your subwoofer, but I'm also not sure exactly how much they would do to enhance it either, unless you are looking for more bass above about 80Hz. As noted in the first post, I definitely think that you could benefit from some larger speakers, particularly at a listening distance of about 10' or more.

However, a stronger sealed subwoofer, or dual SB2000's, or a good ported subwoofer (such as a PB3000), would be far more likely to enhance your bass than tower speakers would. Perhaps a compromise might be larger bookshelf speakers, and more subwoofer as well, if you could swing it.

It's just a matter of trying to decide where you want more bass. If you aren't sure where you want more bass, I would either play test tones at different frequencies to get an idea of the range I wanted more of, or I would try a PB3000, as noted. Of course you can also try just turning up the volume on your SB2000 some more, but I assume that you have already tried that. I hope that I have helped to clarify things, rather than just confusing your choices.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

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post #31005 of 31287 Old 05-04-2019, 08:55 PM
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Anyone have the Elevations mounted on-ceiling as front and rear heights? Dolby says (up to) 45 degrees from the listening position, and I'm concerned the Elevation baffle doesn't have a steep enough angle to point toward the seats.

They also have the same basic design as the Klipsch, and I'm curious about how they differ in sound.

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post #31006 of 31287 Old 05-05-2019, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi Jim,

The tower speakers wouldn't compete with the subwoofer, but I think it's important for you to define what you mean when you say that you want more bass. I looked up your speakers, and I definitely think that you could get better bass with larger speakers. But, even if you have large and capable tower speakers, you would still want to use at least a 60Hz crossover for most content. A lot of people with tower speakers use an 80Hz crossover. The tower speakers are still going to be responsible for all of the upper bass content, and some of the mid-bass content down to a little below the crossover you choose.

With a 60Hz or 80Hz crossover, they can contribute quite a bit to the mid-bass sensation known as chest punch. That sensation occurs when a sudden percussive mid-bass sound, in the range from about 50Hz to 100Hz, occurs. Examples would include the strike of a kick drum or kettle drum, or a bass guitar chord in music; or with gunshots in movies. It does take some SPL to feel that sensation strongly with either subwoofers or with main speakers. That would be one aspect of having more bass.

Another aspect of having more bass would be for the frequencies below about 60Hz or 80Hz. Those frequencies would and should be played by your subwoofers. So, having either a more powerful subwoofer, or multiple subwoofers, would be the best answer for having more low-bass. For frequencies from about 35 or 40Hz up to your crossover to whatever speakers you use, sealed subwoofers work very well. If you want more bass in that range, then moving up to an SB3000, or to dual SB2000's would be a good solution.

If you want more bass below about 35 or 40Hz, then you may want to consider a ported subwoofer. We rarely directly experience the deep bass frequencies with music, although they lend some weight to what we are hearing. But, movies are full of bass special effects at frequencies below 35Hz. Everything from explosions, to earthquakes, to airplanes, to the footfall of a T-Rex, use those deep bass frequencies. And, we may feel them as much as we hear them. The deep bass frequencies are perceived as rumbling or thudding sensations.

Ported subwoofers are particularly strong, compared to sealed subs, below about 35Hz, and they are particularly good at reproducing the deep bass special effects in movies. They also have more low-bass tactile response than sealed subs. If that is what you want, then I would especially recommend trying a PB3000, because it would still be very strong in the mid-bass range and would have a lot more <35Hz bass than what you are getting now. And, it can also be used in sealed mode, if you wanted to compare the difference between ported and sealed.

What may have initially seemed like a simple question has led to a pretty long post. But, I felt it was necessary to write all of this in order to give you a fair answer to your question.

I really don't think that tower speakers would compete with your subwoofer, but I'm also not sure exactly how much they would do to enhance it either, unless you are looking for more bass above about 80Hz. As noted in the first post, I definitely think that you could benefit from some larger speakers, particularly at a listening distance of about 10' or more.

However, a stronger sealed subwoofer, or dual SB2000's, or a good ported subwoofer (such as a PB3000), would be far more likely to enhance your bass than tower speakers would. Perhaps a compromise might be larger bookshelf speakers, and more subwoofer as well, if you could swing it.

It's just a matter of trying to decide where you want more bass. If you aren't sure where you want more bass, I would either play test tones at different frequencies to get an idea of the range I wanted more of, or I would try a PB3000, as noted. Of course you can also try just turning up the volume on your SB2000 some more, but I assume that you have already tried that. I hope that I have helped to clarify things, rather than just confusing your choices.

Regards,
Mike
Thanks for the reply. When i play movies like Aquaman and Into the Spider Verse the bass is loud so i think i am missing the chest thumping mid bass that tower speakers would provide.

If I did upgrade my sub i would stick with sealed despite the obvious advantage to ported so i would probably get a SB4000 but finding full tower speakers looks like my best option.
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post #31007 of 31287 Old 05-06-2019, 04:25 PM
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I just picked up a pair of SB-3000s and I am using a Y Splitter cable to go from the single LFE output to the subwoofers. The volume on both subs is at 0 and I have the go up to +2 or higher to get the bass that could be felt/heard. Is that normal? I've been reading most folks have to put their sub volume to -10 or -20.
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post #31008 of 31287 Old 05-06-2019, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
Anyone have the Elevations mounted on-ceiling as front and rear heights? Dolby says (up to) 45 degrees from the listening position, and I'm concerned the Elevation baffle doesn't have a steep enough angle to point toward the seats.

They also have the same basic design as the Klipsch, and I'm curious about how they differ in sound.
I do, and sound great for Atmos duty. Using a 80Hz crossover point for the front ones, and 90Hz for the rear (vibration problem when using 80Hz on the right rear one).
No problems what so ever from the baffle, been so close to the ceiling with those crossover points.
When Dolby say 45 degrees angle from your listening position, they mean where they are location wise on your ceiling.
Not the angle of the speaker, since there guide is mostly about in ceiling speakers with no angle at all (some do Tweeter and mids that play with angles).

I got some pictures, of them in my Theater thread;
The Chimaera theater
On page 3, post 64, 65 and 81.
Post 64 and 81, has many details on how to achieve the 45 degree with only two holes. Using small lag bolts, instead of screw and so on.
Or close to-it depending of your joist position for the front and back locations. Mine were off by a few degrees. But perfect for facing the MLP location.

From page 64;
"I end-up with, 49 degrees for the front, and 51 degrees for the back , for the distance from front and back to the MPL (45 is the magic #, but the acceptable range is 30 to 60), the speakers are facing the magic number of 45 degrees."


Ray
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post #31009 of 31287 Old 05-06-2019, 07:22 PM
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I do, and sound great for Atmos duty. Using a 80Hz crossover point for the front ones, and 90Hz for the rear (vibration problem when using 80Hz on the right rear one).
No problems what so ever from the baffle, been so close to the ceiling with those crossover points.
When Dolby say 45 degrees angle from your listening position, they mean where they are location wise on your ceiling.
Not the angle of the speaker, since there guide is mostly about in ceiling speakers with no angle at all (some do Tweeter and mids that play with angles).

I got some pictures, of them in my Theater thread;
The Chimaera theater
On page 3, post 64, 65 and 81.
Post 64 and 81, has many details on how to achieve the 45 degree with only two holes. Using small lag bolts, instead of screw and so on.
Or close to-it depending of your joist position for the front and back locations. Mine were off by a few degrees. But perfect for facing the MLP location.

From page 64;
"I end-up with, 49 degrees for the front, and 51 degrees for the back , for the distance from front and back to the MPL (45 is the magic #, but the acceptable range is 30 to 60), the speakers are facing the magic number of 45 degrees."


Ray

Thanks. It does look like the speaker baffles are only angled back 40° instead of 45°, which means to aim directly at your seats, they have a limit of 40°. But as long as they still sound good a bit off-axis then it's all good. And nice theater
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post #31010 of 31287 Old 05-06-2019, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
Thanks. It does look like the speaker baffles are only angled back 40° instead of 45°, which means to aim directly at your seats, they have a limit of 40°. But as long as they still sound good a bit off-axis then it's all good. And nice theater

Thanks
Hope my previous experience do help you, with my diagrams and pictures


Ray
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post #31011 of 31287 Old 05-07-2019, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Bardia View Post
I just picked up a pair of SB-3000s and I am using a Y Splitter cable to go from the single LFE output to the subwoofers. The volume on both subs is at 0 and I have the go up to +2 or higher to get the bass that could be felt/heard. Is that normal? I've been reading most folks have to put their sub volume to -10 or -20.

The way you have it wired seems correct. IE AVR LFE output, Y-Split and each being connected to the Subs LFE input. Your Sub volume of 0 would be max and as you mentioned, most have it in the -10 to -20 range. I would be curious as your your AVR setup. What brand and model are you using and did you perform the AVR Audyssey or similar correction setup? May also want to check your AVRs Line Level for the Sub output and see where that is. The room correction software should be rerun if you recently installed the new subs and havent yet. This will set the levels accordingly. With the pair of SB-3000s you should be getting lots of good bass.
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post #31012 of 31287 Old 05-07-2019, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by DT4 View Post
The way you have it wired seems correct. IE AVR LFE output, Y-Split and each being connected to the Subs LFE input. Your Sub volume of 0 would be max and as you mentioned, most have it in the -10 to -20 range. I would be curious as your your AVR setup. What brand and model are you using and did you perform the AVR Audyssey or similar correction setup? May also want to check your AVRs Line Level for the Sub output and see where that is. The room correction software should be rerun if you recently installed the new subs and havent yet. This will set the levels accordingly. With the pair of SB-3000s you should be getting lots of good bass.
Good call. I would reset both amps to factory defaults using the app. Then re-run set-up. Make sure the speaker size/crossover is set properly. Tell us more about your AVR and system and we can help dial them in.


If you want to do a sanity check on the subwoofers themselves - connect your smart phone directly to the subwoofer via the headphone jack (mini-RCA adapter), turn-up the headphone volume all the way and then play a bassy song. Set the LPF on the sub to 100 Hz temporarily just to filter out the mids/highs. The SB-3000 should be kicking out some pretty hard bass even at -15 to -10 and should be really loud when you get to -5.
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post #31013 of 31287 Old 05-08-2019, 05:39 PM
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PB4000 sounds a bit muddy?

Hey guys!

I love this sub, but sometimes I feel it just lacks a little detail. I know ported has this issue over sealed typically, but I wonder if there's a way to clean it up a bit? I haven't used a umik-1 or run REW. I've just used Audyssey settings (I have the Marantz 8805), and then adjust the subs gain. I know I can go in and mess w/ the EQ and room gain compensation and such in the SVS app. What is the easiest/best way to try and clean this up a bit?
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post #31014 of 31287 Old 05-08-2019, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ethos4Lyfe View Post
Hey guys!

I love this sub, but sometimes I feel it just lacks a little detail. I know ported has this issue over sealed typically, but I wonder if there's a way to clean it up a bit? I haven't used a umik-1 or run REW. I've just used Audyssey settings (I have the Marantz 8805), and then adjust the subs gain. I know I can go in and mess w/ the EQ and room gain compensation and such in the SVS app. What is the easiest/best way to try and clean this up a bit?
There are lots of factors that could be playing a role. One could just be suboptimal placement so you can experiment with that if able. Corner placement may get you more gain but also more bloat and less detail. Some people find that Audyssey’s DEQ muddies the bass a bit. If you have it on you can either try turning it off or taming it’s effect by increasing the reference level offset. If you turn it off you will likely need to add some additional sub gain back especially at lower listening levels.
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post #31015 of 31287 Old 05-08-2019, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ethos4Lyfe View Post
Hey guys!

I love this sub, but sometimes I feel it just lacks a little detail. I know ported has this issue over sealed typically, but I wonder if there's a way to clean it up a bit? I haven't used a umik-1 or run REW. I've just used Audyssey settings (I have the Marantz 8805), and then adjust the subs gain. I know I can go in and mess w/ the EQ and room gain compensation and such in the SVS app. What is the easiest/best way to try and clean this up a bit?
There are a number of variables that can affect subwoofer performance outside of the sub itself. You mention running Audyssey, how many samples did you take 3, 6 or 8? Were you able to do the sub-level calibration that Audyssey requests (IE 75 db sub vol) prior to running the full Audyssey calibration? How do you have the sub connected to the AVR (AVR Sub 1 out to the Subs LFE input)? Did you enable Dynamic EQ and / or Dynamic Volume in the AVR after running Audyssey?

You also mention "adjusting the sub gain" after Audyssey, can you elaborate exactly where you made those changes? What mode is the sub in (Standard 3 ports open, Extended 2 ports open, Sealed all ports closed) ? Sub volume on the front of the sub is set to? How much was this changed if any after Audyssey calibration?

If you can reply with some of the above I'm sure we can point to areas that can be modified or adjusted.
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post #31016 of 31287 Old 05-08-2019, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by confinoj View Post
There are lots of factors that could be playing a role. One could just be suboptimal placement so you can experiment with that if able. Corner placement may get you more gain but also more bloat and less detail. Some people find that Audyssey’s DEQ muddies the bass a bit. If you have it on you can either try turning it off or taming it’s effect by increasing the reference level offset. If you turn it off you will likely need to add some additional sub gain back especially at lower listening levels.
+1

Quote:
Originally Posted by DT4 View Post
There are a number of variables that can affect subwoofer performance outside of the sub itself. You mention running Audyssey, how many samples did you take 3, 6 or 8? Were you able to do the sub-level calibration that Audyssey requests (IE 75 db sub vol) prior to running the full Audyssey calibration? How do you have the sub connected to the AVR (AVR Sub 1 out to the Subs LFE input)? Did you enable Dynamic EQ and / or Dynamic Volume in the AVR after running Audyssey?

You also mention "adjusting the sub gain" after Audyssey, can you elaborate exactly where you made those changes? What mode is the sub in (Standard 3 ports open, Extended 2 ports open, Sealed all ports closed) ? Sub volume on the front of the sub is set to? How much was this changed if any after Audyssey calibration?

If you can reply with some of the above I'm sure we can point to areas that can be modified or adjusted.
Another +1

Very nice posts from you guys, with important questions.

I know for myself even with the flat Audyssey setting, instead of the Audyssey curve setting. I had the DEQ set to on for a long time, and find some movies to be blotted in the lower frequencies.
After reading reading this Guide;
Guide to Subwoofer Calibration and Bass Preferences

I decided to turn Off the DEQ, and sounded so much better for my room with my current subs.
But did need rising the volume of my subs, from 0dB (calibration level) to +2dB
Than I also try to experiment with, to get more mid bass;
III-C: Cascading Crossovers:

While the last settings with Cascading Crossovers work very well me, and many others who tried-it.
Some did not like the results, and the same could be said about DEQ been Off instead of On.

Therefore, only playing with the settings/ports configurations and sub placements. Can tell the whole story for anyone room or sub within that room.
And this is where lots experimentations, with lots of patience will pay off at the end


Ray
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post #31017 of 31287 Old 05-09-2019, 11:48 AM
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I currently own a svs SB2000 and thinking about upgrading to the SB3000, will there be a noticeable difference sound quality?
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post #31018 of 31287 Old 05-09-2019, 01:06 PM
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I currently own a svs SB2000 and thinking about upgrading to the SB3000, will there be a noticeable difference sound quality?
You're the only one that can really make that determination. SVS makes it easy to hear for yourself.

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post #31019 of 31287 Old 05-09-2019, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by confinoj View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ethos4Lyfe View Post
Hey guys!

I love this sub, but sometimes I feel it just lacks a little detail. I know ported has this issue over sealed typically, but I wonder if there's a way to clean it up a bit? I haven't used a umik-1 or run REW. I've just used Audyssey settings (I have the Marantz 8805), and then adjust the subs gain. I know I can go in and mess w/ the EQ and room gain compensation and such in the SVS app. What is the easiest/best way to try and clean this up a bit?
There are lots of factors that could be playing a role. One could just be suboptimal placement so you can experiment with that if able. Corner placement may get you more gain but also more bloat and less detail. Some people find that Audyssey’s DEQ muddies the bass a bit. If you have it on you can either try turning it off or taming it’s effect by increasing the reference level offset. If you turn it off you will likely need to add some additional sub gain back especially at lower listening levels.
Audyssey definitely does not muddy sub-bass - at least not XT32.

It's the sub and/or its placement.
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post #31020 of 31287 Old 05-09-2019, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
Audyssey definitely does not muddy sub-bass - at least not XT32.

It's the sub and/or its placement.
I'm talking specifically about the DEQ component of Audyssey which is separate from the filters XT32 applies. I personally have not had an issue with it and like the DEQ effects at low volumes. However there are many many users over the years that have turned off DEQ and have reported their bass to be cleaner sounding. I suspect some of that has to due with too much of a bass boost from DEQ in some setups/rooms but not sure if there are any other reasons.
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