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post #31051 of 31279 Old 05-13-2019, 02:45 AM
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Well, you learn something new everyday on this site
I would have thought, it should have been the other way around. Since the SVS PB/SB16 is their new Flagship

Thanks to add, once again to my Audio Education


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It would be so easy if only max SPL were important

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post #31052 of 31279 Old 05-13-2019, 05:41 AM
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Hi,

I have several thoughts. First, when you are positioning dual subs, it isn't just about finding the two best individual locations for the subs. It is about finding the locations where the subs will best reinforce each other. So, a dip at one frequency by one sub may be filled in with a peak at that same frequency by the other sub. You could very well be correct that you only have one good place for a subwoofer, but I don't think that you can be sure of that from the experiments you have performed with a single sub.

But, let's put that issue on hold for a moment and address your question. You want to upgrade. What would be the better upgrade for <20Hz SPL and tactile response: a PC4000 or an SB16? The answer to that is pretty easy. Rounding down for convenience, at 25Hz the PB4000 (in Extended mode) produces 110db, with 109db at 20Hz, and 107db at 16Hz. (The PC4000 is essentially identical to that.)

By comparison, the SB16 produces 106db at 25Hz (4db less), 100db at 20Hz (9db less), and only about 95db at 16Hz (a whopping 12db difference). The PC/PB4000 continues to have the advantage down to 12.5Hz (~1db) so even with the faster roll-off, the PC4000 is producing much more SPL than the SB16 down into the low-teens.

If you have read the last page or two, you know that a volume increase of about 5db at 30Hz and below is perceived as a doubling in loudness, so the PC4000 will be almost twice as loud as the SB16 at 25Hz, almost 4 times as loud at 20Hz, and well, you get the idea. There will be no comparison from 25Hz down to the low-teens.

The other aspect you mentioned was tactile response (TR). Ported subs produce much more low-bass TR than sealed subs, due to the action of the ports. Within about an octave of its port tune, a ported sub can produce a great deal more low-bass TR than an equivalent sealed sub. That is because low-bass TR is the product of both SPL and particle velocity. Section VIII-A of the Guide, linked below, explains this in much more detail if you are interested.

If more low-bass SPL and TR are what you are after, the PC4000 would give you a great deal more of both than the SB13 you have now, or the SB16 you are considering. I definitely don't think it would be a waste of money. As to whether you could benefit by adding another identical sub to whatever you end up with, that is another question. I think it is very possible that you might want to consider dual subs at some point. But, a single ported sub would still have the advantage, for the 20Hz down to low-teens frequencies, over dual sealed subs. And, it would also still have the advantage in low-bass TR.

Regards,
Mike
Oh boy lots of good information. I have read the guides couple times and have gotten tons of knowledge. Guess i'll take the PC4000 for a ride soon. Thanks!
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post #31053 of 31279 Old 05-13-2019, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by pau View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

I have several thoughts. First, when you are positioning dual subs, it isn't just about finding the two best individual locations for the subs. It is about finding the locations where the subs will best reinforce each other. So, a dip at one frequency by one sub may be filled in with a peak at that same frequency by the other sub. You could very well be correct that you only have one good place for a subwoofer, but I don't think that you can be sure of that from the experiments you have performed with a single sub.

But, let's put that issue on hold for a moment and address your question. You want to upgrade. What would be the better upgrade for <20Hz SPL and tactile response: a PC4000 or an SB16? The answer to that is pretty easy. Rounding down for convenience, at 25Hz the PB4000 (in Extended mode) produces 110db, with 109db at 20Hz, and 107db at 16Hz. (The PC4000 is essentially identical to that.)

By comparison, the SB16 produces 106db at 25Hz (4db less), 100db at 20Hz (9db less), and only about 95db at 16Hz (a whopping 12db difference). The PC/PB4000 continues to have the advantage down to 12.5Hz (~1db) so even with the faster roll-off, the PC4000 is producing much more SPL than the SB16 down into the low-teens.

If you have read the last page or two, you know that a volume increase of about 5db at 30Hz and below is perceived as a doubling in loudness, so the PC4000 will be almost twice as loud as the SB16 at 25Hz, almost 4 times as loud at 20Hz, and well, you get the idea. There will be no comparison from 25Hz down to the low-teens.

The other aspect you mentioned was tactile response (TR). Ported subs produce much more low-bass TR than sealed subs, due to the action of the ports. Within about an octave of its port tune, a ported sub can produce a great deal more low-bass TR than an equivalent sealed sub. That is because low-bass TR is the product of both SPL and particle velocity. Section VIII-A of the Guide, linked below, explains this in much more detail if you are interested.

If more low-bass SPL and TR are what you are after, the PC4000 would give you a great deal more of both than the SB13 you have now, or the SB16 you are considering. I definitely don't think it would be a waste of money. As to whether you could benefit by adding another identical sub to whatever you end up with, that is another question. I think it is very possible that you might want to consider dual subs at some point. But, a single ported sub would still have the advantage, for the 20Hz down to low-teens frequencies, over dual sealed subs. And, it would also still have the advantage in low-bass TR.

Regards,
Mike
Oh boy lots of good information. I have read the guides couple times and have gotten tons of knowledge. Guess i'll take the PC4000 for a ride soon. Thanks! [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
For what it’s worth I have two PC4000s and they rock!
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post #31054 of 31279 Old 05-13-2019, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Polyrythm1k View Post
Don’t forget, the content has to be there too. Like pushing my hand deeper into my pocket doesn’t make it have more money lol. If it’s movies your testing with, try something like hacksaw ridge that’s know to have very deep bass. Not sure T2 has much.
I will try lowering the volume of all the channels except the sub and raise the main volume to see if that makes a difference. I will also try taking the sound isolation feet out to see how it sounds without them. If all these fail I would have to send them back.
I had the Velodyne DD+10 and the bass was pretty on spot so I am baffled that 2 13s can't hit as low as a single 10.
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post #31055 of 31279 Old 05-13-2019, 02:40 PM
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After a week of listening and tuning the 2 subs placed in diagonal corners of the room, they sound like they have too much mid bass punch. Too tight sounding. I can’t get them to sound a little deeper.
Does this mean I should look into the PBS instead?
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I am not giving up on them just yet. I played with the parametric eq and low pass filter a little bit more and it improved things a bit.
Watching T2 on 4K disc, the sounds of explosions are a lot more forceful than say shotguns being fired. If I turn up the bass where you can hear the roar of the shotgun being fired, then the explosion scenes are extremely loud. I’m trying to get this adjustment correct so the bass is more even
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I will try lowering the volume of all the channels except the sub and raise the main volume to see if that makes a difference. I will also try taking the sound isolation feet out to see how it sounds without them. If all these fail I would have to send them back.
I had the Velodyne DD+10 and the bass was pretty on spot so I am baffled that 2 13s can't hit as low as a single 10.

I think that part of the issue is that the new subs simply sound different than your old sub did. In your first post, you said that you wanted the subs to sound deeper with less mid-bass punch. In your second post, you say that the sound of explosions is louder than the sound of shotguns being fired.

The explosions you are hearing are the deeper bass frequencies, and the shotgun blasts are the mid-bass frequencies. There is no way that a 10" Velodyne subwoofer can go anywhere nearly as low as dual SB13's, and what you said in the second post I bolded is evidence of that. So, the real issue here may not be how to get more deep bass, it may be how to get more mid-bass from the SB13's in relation to the deep bass.

To do that, I would use the pre-programmed PEQ at 63Hz. That will be right in that shotgun blast range you said you are looking for. You also need to give yourself a little time to get used to a completely different sound signature than the one you were used to with the small Velodyne sub. The dual SB13's will have a natively heavier sound compared to the single small Velodyne.

One of the things you can do is to pull the two subwoofers slightly out of the corners. The closer to the two walls of the corner they are, the more boundary gain you will get, and you will especially notice that for the lower frequencies. If you pull the subs forward by a few inches or a foot, so that they are not pushed back into the corners as much, you should notice a reduction in the lower bass sound. As you get more accustomed to the new sound signature, you may decide to push them back a little or you may prefer to have them pulled away more.

Different subwoofers can have different sound characteristics, and one of the most noticeable differences can be the sound of the low-bass in proportion to the mid-bass. It seems to me that coming from your Velodyne subwoofer, you are accustomed to hearing a much higher proportion of mid-bass, compared to low-bass, than you are currently experiencing. If that is correct, then solving that problem is entirely different from what I thought we were addressing in your first post.

Again, try the suggestions I made, try turning off DEQ if you have an Audyssey system, and give yourself a little time to see if the sound of your new subs grows on you. You can also contact Ed Mullen directly, for some additional technical assistance, if the suggestions I made don't help, or if you want some personalized assistance.

Regards,
Mike
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post #31056 of 31279 Old 05-13-2019, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
I think that part of the issue is that the new subs simply sound different than your old sub did. In your first post, you said that you wanted the subs to sound deeper with less mid-bass punch. In your second post, you say that the sound of explosions is louder than the sound of shotguns being fired.

The explosions you are hearing are the deeper bass frequencies, and the shotgun blasts are the mid-bass frequencies. There is no way that a 10" Velodyne subwoofer can go anywhere nearly as low as dual SB13's, and what you said in the second post I bolded is evidence of that. So, the real issue here may not be how to get more deep bass, it may be how to get more mid-bass from the SB13's in relation to the deep bass.

To do that, I would use the pre-programmed PEQ at 63Hz. That will be right in that shotgun blast range you said you are looking for. You also need to give yourself a little time to get used to a completely different sound signature than the one you were used to with the small Velodyne sub. The dual SB13's will have a natively heavier sound compared to the single small Velodyne.

One of the things you can do is to pull the two subwoofers slightly out of the corners. The closer to the two walls of the corner they are, the more boundary gain you will get, and you will especially notice that for the lower frequencies. If you pull the subs forward by a few inches or a foot, so that they are not pushed back into the corners as much, you should notice a reduction in the lower bass sound. As you get more accustomed to the new sound signature, you may decide to push them back a little or you may prefer to have them pulled away more.

Different subwoofers can have different sound characteristics, and one of the most noticeable differences can be the sound of the low-bass in proportion to the mid-bass. It seems to me that coming from your Velodyne subwoofer, you are accustomed to hearing a much higher proportion of mid-bass, compared to low-bass, than you are currently experiencing. If that is correct, then solving that problem is entirely different from what I thought we were addressing in your first post.

Again, try the suggestions I made, try turning off DEQ if you have an Audyssey system, and give yourself a little time to see if the sound of your new subs grows on you. You can also contact Ed Mullen directly, for some additional technical assistance, if the suggestions I made don't help, or if you want some personalized assistance.

Regards,
Mike
Thank you Mike, so I don't have room correction. From analogs of the Oppo 205 I am going into Bel Canto Pre 6 analog pre-amp. It has 1 LFE out which I am using a Y splitter to send to the LFEs inputs of the subs. The front subwoofer is on the right corner. The rear Subwoofer is as far left in the rear of the room as it can get as there is a fireplace with a granite footstep in front of it. so no wall on the side of the rear subwoofer. to clarify I am hearing more mid bass than deep bass. Only when I switch the crossover of the OPPO to 60 or 70hz the bass gets a bit deeper but of course it dissapears a bit. I will try moving the subs around a little and adjusting the EQ on them more. Trial and Error till its right!!
When playing the track TIME from Dark side of the moon, in the begining of the song after all the bells go off, there is some bass notes playing, they all sounded ok except one at the end almost shook the foundation of the house like crazy. I wish it was more even sounding

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post #31057 of 31279 Old 05-13-2019, 03:40 PM
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Thank you Mike, so I don't have room correction. From analogs of the Oppo 205 I am going into Bel Canto Pre 6 analog pre-amp. It has 1 LFE out which I am using a Y splitter to send to the LFEs inputs of the subs. The front subwoofer is on the right corner. The rear Subwoofer is as far left in the rear of the room as it can get as there is a fireplace with a granite footstep in front of it. so no wall on the side of the rear subwoofer. to clarify I am hearing more mid bass than deep bass. Only when I switch the crossover of the OPPO to 60 or 70hz the bass gets a bit deeper but of course it dissapears a bit. I will try moving the subs around a little and adjusting the EQ on them more. Trial and Error till its right!!
When playing the track TIME from Dark side of the moon, in the begining of the song after all the bells go off, there is some bass notes playing, they all sounded ok except one at the end almost shook the foundation of the house like crazy. I wish it was more even sounding

I would suggest adjusting Phase / Polarity on the "far left rear" sub since you mention not having room correction. Multiple subs are more sensitive to placement / delay / phase and they could be working against each other.
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post #31058 of 31279 Old 05-13-2019, 04:09 PM
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Thank you Mike, so I don't have room correction. From analogs of the Oppo 205 I am going into Bel Canto Pre 6 analog pre-amp. It has 1 LFE out which I am using a Y splitter to send to the LFEs inputs of the subs. The front subwoofer is on the right corner. The rear Subwoofer is as far left in the rear of the room as it can get as there is a fireplace with a granite footstep in front of it. so no wall on the side of the rear subwoofer. to clarify I am hearing more mid bass than deep bass. Only when I switch the crossover of the OPPO to 60 or 70hz the bass gets a bit deeper but of course it dissapears a bit. I will try moving the subs around a little and adjusting the EQ on them more. Trial and Error till its right!!
When playing the track TIME from Dark side of the moon, in the begining of the song after all the bells go off, there is some bass notes playing, they all sounded ok except one at the end almost shook the foundation of the house like crazy. I wish it was more even sounding

You are very welcome! I think that you might find it illuminating if you can find a way to play some test tones through your system. By my definition, mid-bass frequencies start at about 50Hz and go up to at least 120Hz. Low-bass frequencies are below 50Hz, and very low-bass frequencies are below 30Hz.

I'm sure that different people define bass frequencies differently, but in my experience most of us think that we are hearing lower frequencies than we really are. For instance, someone may hear a 60 or 70Hz fundamental frequency and think that it is a deep bass sound rather than a mid-bass sound.

The example you used was a perfect illustration of that.
The sound at the end which "almost shook the foundation of the house like crazy" was a deep bass frequency. You actually feel those deep bass frequencies as much as you hear them, and it can be hard to separate the two sensations of feeling and hearing. But, they add weight to the bass frequencies that we hear more easily. I guarantee your Velodyne didn't shake the house like that, and it's because it didn't play nearly as low, or as loudly at low-frequencies, as the dual SB13's can.

The evenness you are looking for may actually involve attenuating the deep bass a bit, or emphasizing the mid-bass more in comparison to the deep bass. If you emphasize the mid-bass more, you could just turn down the volume on your subs a little in order to reduce the impact of the deepest bass. And, that would sound more balanced, compared to what you are accustomed to with your 10" Velodyne sub.

Try to play some test tones at known frequencies through your system, so you can get an idea of what I am talking about regarding the difference in mid-bass versus deep bass. You will find it hard to solve the problem you are describing if the description isn't accurate in actually describing the problem. I do think that experimenting with placement will help, but you probably still need to get a better handle on the difference between mid-bass and deep bass.

Regards,
Mike
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post #31059 of 31279 Old 05-13-2019, 04:32 PM
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I will try lowering the volume of all the channels except the sub and raise the main volume to see if that makes a difference. I will also try taking the sound isolation feet out to see how it sounds without them. If all these fail I would have to send them back.

I had the Velodyne DD+10 and the bass was pretty on spot so I am baffled that 2 13s can't hit as low as a single 10.


Well I would definitely say you’re not quite set up then. Those two ultras should crush the velo. FWIW I’m a fan of ported subs. IMO, the 10” velodyne was probably a high Q low damped unit with a bump somewhere in the 40-60hz range. That non linear behavior is built in to smaller subs to make them seem bigger than they are. Some bookshelf speakers are built that way too. My hunch is, as mike indicated, you might be used to(using this gently lol) boomier bass. It can take some time to adjust from that. The sb’s are much more linear, and I’m actually surprised at how your experience has gone so far.
Do you have rew and a mic? Or an spl meter at least? You can check phase with an spl meter and some tones if you don’t have rew.
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post #31060 of 31279 Old 05-13-2019, 08:23 PM
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Well I would definitely say you’re not quite set up then. Those two ultras should crush the velo. FWIW I’m a fan of ported subs. IMO, the 10” velodyne was probably a high Q low damped unit with a bump somewhere in the 40-60hz range. That non linear behavior is built in to smaller subs to make them seem bigger than they are. Some bookshelf speakers are built that way too. My hunch is, as mike indicated, you might be used to(using this gently lol) boomier bass. It can take some time to adjust from that. The sb’s are much more linear, and I’m actually surprised at how your experience has gone so far.
Do you have rew and a mic? Or an spl meter at least? You can check phase with an spl meter and some tones if you don’t have rew.
Hello, they are a pair of SB-3000 and not the ultras. The velodyne was the $3800 dd+10 and it’s a very capable sub. Having said that I now hear bass sounds that I previously did not hear on some tracks. Tonight I adjusted the subs some more. I will try different placements as well.

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post #31061 of 31279 Old 05-13-2019, 11:48 PM
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Hello, they are a pair of SB-3000 and not the ultras. The velodyne was the $3800 dd+10 and it’s a very capable sub. Having said that I now hear bass sounds that I previously did not hear on some tracks. Tonight I adjusted the subs some more. I will try different placements as well.
The DD10+ used the same amp and servo technology as the very capable DD18+, and was probably the premier 10 incb sealed sub of it's day, and might still be, but I would think the SB-3000 would easily beat it, at least in output, especially on the low end. I wouldn't be surprised if the DD10+ could give it a run for it's money in the mid bass, though. If the DD10+ is like the DD18+, it should have a pretty linear frequency response, with a lot less energy at the low end.

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post #31062 of 31279 Old 05-14-2019, 09:58 AM
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Well I would definitely say you’re not quite set up then. Those two ultras should crush the velo. FWIW I’m a fan of ported subs. IMO, the 10” velodyne was probably a high Q low damped unit with a bump somewhere in the 40-60hz range. That non linear behavior is built in to smaller subs to make them seem bigger than they are. Some bookshelf speakers are built that way too. My hunch is, as mike indicated, you might be used to(using this gently lol) boomier bass. It can take some time to adjust from that. The sb’s are much more linear, and I’m actually surprised at how your experience has gone so far.
Do you have rew and a mic? Or an spl meter at least? You can check phase with an spl meter and some tones if you don’t have rew.
Yea, I'm going through exactly this issue myself with a New SVS PB 3000.

My old Sub was a $299 Klipsch Synergy Sub 12 @ 300W. Its was a downword firing Sub.

This Sub had a particular sound, especially when Playing the Boz Scaggs Tune "Thanks to You" The bass was just all enveloping and was really outstanding. It was everywhere.

I placed the New SVS PB 3000 in the same location. Ran Anthem Arc Setup a few times, and for whatever reason the PB 3000 just isn't lighting up the Bass in that song like the Klipsch Sub 12 was.

So, I have some work to do regarding placement. The PB 3000 just isn't at home in the same location as the Klipsch was.

Attached are the Curves from both in the same location.

Any critique or advise welcome!
Attached Thumbnails
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Mpray1983- "User error due to sneeze or fart occurred during measurement"

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post #31063 of 31279 Old 05-14-2019, 02:19 PM
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You have to work on positioning.
That huge dip around 63 Hz is VERY bad - that's exactly the frequency range which is essential for music.
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post #31064 of 31279 Old 05-14-2019, 09:44 PM
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Yea, I'm going through exactly this issue myself with a New SVS PB 3000.



My old Sub was a $299 Klipsch Synergy Sub 12 @ 300W. Its was a downword firing Sub.



This Sub had a particular sound, especially when Playing the Boz Scaggs Tune "Thanks to You" The bass was just all enveloping and was really outstanding. It was everywhere.



I placed the New SVS PB 3000 in the same location. Ran Anthem Arc Setup a few times, and for whatever reason the PB 3000 just isn't lighting up the Bass in that song like the Klipsch Sub 12 was.



So, I have some work to do regarding placement. The PB 3000 just isn't at home in the same location as the Klipsch was.



Attached are the Curves from both in the same location.



Any critique or advise welcome!


Yeah, I would definitely work on placement and see what you can do. Not hands on familiar with arc. Does it address phase? Also, the resolution on each graph is different so if they were scaled the same, they might look more similar. And yeah, for sure that dip is right in the area of a lot of music bass. I wonder if the klipsch was easier to place since it covers less frequencies, and probably has a bump in the 50-60 range. Maybe I should go to sleep... lol
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post #31065 of 31279 Old 05-14-2019, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Bardia View Post
Hello, they are a pair of SB-3000 and not the ultras. The velodyne was the $3800 dd+10 and it’s a very capable sub. Having said that I now hear bass sounds that I previously did not hear on some tracks. Tonight I adjusted the subs some more. I will try different placements as well.


Sorry, thought I read they were sb13u. In any case, while that’s a LOT more money than I would spend on a 10” subwoofer, I have to agree it’s a pretty damn good one. I still feel the sb3k would be an upgrade and they probably just need some more TLC.

Btw, didn’t you have pics up? Iirc it was a beautiful room with white towers and the great joe Rogan In screen? Great airplanes too. I might be confused too! Lol
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post #31066 of 31279 Old 05-15-2019, 05:51 AM
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Hello,

I have Dual SVS SB16 Ultra and notice that one of them seem to exhibit a thump sound when I turn it off. Here is link to short video that I captured

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1k-...AOk1ahiCfKvrAq

You will hear a click (me turning it off) followed by that thump (can see woofer moving when that happens) and then followed by another click which is me turning it back on. Is that thump sound something common? I dont see the same issue with my other unit though and hence my concern. I have reached out to SVS customer support and they are looking into it as we speak but wanted to check here and see if you have experienced similar and whats the issue it could be?

Thanks!
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post #31067 of 31279 Old 05-15-2019, 05:54 PM
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Hi!

Such a depressing first post... but let's go.

Today I started watching TV and noticed the bass was missing. Looked at the sub and the light was off. Tried a couple of things and nothing... So I decided to take off the plate amp, hoping for a blown fuse. What I found instead was a black/smelly area around the red capacitor (imgur.com/a/uIIEygd).

I've been using this baby for almost 2 years now... I live in Brazil and bought it from Paraguay's Tentaciones store (official international dealer). Do you guys think I am covered by warranty or am I screwed?

This is a sad day
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post #31068 of 31279 Old 05-16-2019, 07:02 AM
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Hi!

Such a depressing first post... but let's go.

Today I started watching TV and noticed the bass was missing. Looked at the sub and the light was off. Tried a couple of things and nothing... So I decided to take off the plate amp, hoping for a blown fuse. What I found instead was a black/smelly area around the red capacitor (imgur.com/a/uIIEygd).

I've been using this baby for almost 2 years now... I live in Brazil and bought it from Paraguay's Tentaciones store (official international dealer). Do you guys think I am covered by warranty or am I screwed?

This is a sad day
Please contact SVS Customer Service directly at [email protected]. We'll take a look at everything and make sure you're taken care of.

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"What We Do In Life, Echoes In Eternity"
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post #31069 of 31279 Old 05-16-2019, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anand_raman View Post
Hello,

I have Dual SVS SB16 Ultra and notice that one of them seem to exhibit a thump sound when I turn it off. Here is link to short video that I captured

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1k-...AOk1ahiCfKvrAq

You will hear a click (me turning it off) followed by that thump (can see woofer moving when that happens) and then followed by another click which is me turning it back on. Is that thump sound something common? I dont see the same issue with my other unit though and hence my concern. I have reached out to SVS customer support and they are looking into it as we speak but wanted to check here and see if you have experienced similar and whats the issue it could be?

Thanks!
I watched the video and presume the click is from you turning on / off the physical switch on the back of the Sub? Are you turning it off / on for every use? I think in the years owning my first pair of PB16s I've only turned them off / on using the switch a handful of times.

Typical use is to leave the switch on and use the LFE Auto On feature or better yet, a 12v trigger line. These options will wake the sub from standby and sleep after use as appropriate. There really is no need to turn the switch on / off after every use.

I'd be interested to hear what SVS CS has to say about the sound when they reply.
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post #31070 of 31279 Old 05-16-2019, 08:28 AM
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Please contact SVS Customer Service directly at custservice at svsound.com. We'll take a look at everything and make sure you're taken care of.
Thanks for the response! You just put a smile on my face

As soon as I get home I will prepare the e-mail.
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post #31071 of 31279 Old 05-16-2019, 10:19 AM
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I watched the video and presume the click is from you turning on / off the physical switch on the back of the Sub? Are you turning it off / on for every use? I think in the years owning my first pair of PB16s I've only turned them off / on using the switch a handful of times.

Typical use is to leave the switch on and use the LFE Auto On feature or better yet, a 12v trigger line. These options will wake the sub from standby and sleep after use as appropriate. There really is no need to turn the switch on / off after every use.

I'd be interested to hear what SVS CS has to say about the sound when they reply.
I dont turn off and on the sub for every use! Its in standby (on mode) always and I noticed this when I turned it off to move it another location in the room. SVS is sending me replacement AMP that I was told must be straight forward to replace and hopefully that fixes it. This was the reply from SVS

"My lead engineer has reported back that the sound you are hearing when you power off that subwoofer is only a noise artifact from the DSP in the amplifier and that this will not damage the woofer or the amplifier in any way. As mentioned yesterday, this noise artifact does not happen with every subwoofer. With that said, if you would prefer we replace the amplifier for peace of mind, I can process a replacement amplifier under warranty. I have attached the amplifier replacement instructions for your reference in case you would like a replacement amp and are comfortable swapping it out."

Seems its not a problem but their customer service is top-notch and they are sending a replacement AMP just for peace of mind!
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post #31072 of 31279 Old 05-16-2019, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by anand_raman View Post
I dont turn off and on the sub for every use! Its in standby (on mode) always and I noticed this when I turned it off to move it another location in the room. SVS is sending me replacement AMP that I was told must be straight forward to replace and hopefully that fixes it. This was the reply from SVS

"My lead engineer has reported back that the sound you are hearing when you power off that subwoofer is only a noise artifact from the DSP in the amplifier and that this will not damage the woofer or the amplifier in any way. As mentioned yesterday, this noise artifact does not happen with every subwoofer. With that said, if you would prefer we replace the amplifier for peace of mind, I can process a replacement amplifier under warranty. I have attached the amplifier replacement instructions for your reference in case you would like a replacement amp and are comfortable swapping it out."

Seems its not a problem but their customer service is top-notch and they are sending a replacement AMP just for peace of mind!
My PC-4000s both make a similar sound when manually shutting off even after replacing both amps (for other reasons).

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post #31073 of 31279 Old 05-16-2019, 10:39 AM
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My PC-4000s both make a similar sound when manually shutting off even after replacing both amps (for other reasons).

Hmmm...I have dual sub and only one of them makes that noise though...If both were making I would have assumed it be the case but since only one of them is doing I was concerned..Oh well..If its not going to make any damage and from what I am hearing it might very well still happen I am questioning if I should even try to replace the amp...
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post #31074 of 31279 Old 05-16-2019, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by anand_raman View Post
Hmmm...I have dual sub and only one of them makes that noise though...If both were making I would have assumed it be the case but since only one of them is doing I was concerned..Oh well..If its not going to make any damage and from what I am hearing it might very well still happen I am questioning if I should even try to replace the amp...
I'd say do the swap. If that fixes the issue I think it will be satisfying AND you won't have to wonder "what if".

IF it doesn't change you're no worse off.
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post #31075 of 31279 Old 05-16-2019, 12:13 PM
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Ok, I got the sound to be 80-90% there. I have to make some more adjustments and maybe different placements but I am hearing bass notes that I had not heard from the same song or movie before. I probably had not tuned my last sub correctly but I remember hearing the same bass note for almost everything. With the SB-3000s I am hearing different bass notes in different part of the movie. Also when listening to DSD jazz tracks, the bass is just AMAZING!!!! Yep, it's a keeper!!
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post #31076 of 31279 Old 05-16-2019, 12:44 PM
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I'd say do the swap. If that fixes the issue I think it will be satisfying AND you won't have to wonder "what if".

IF it doesn't change you're no worse off.
Thats true....my only other reason for that was I didnt want to mess up anything internal during the AMP swap on my own . But the instructions that SVS sent looks startight forward though.
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post #31077 of 31279 Old 05-16-2019, 01:11 PM
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Thats true....my only other reason for that was I didnt want to mess up anything internal during the AMP swap on my own . But the instructions that SVS sent looks startight forward though.
I can certainly appreciate that! I worked in electronics for a very long time and what might seem relatively easy to me might not be so for others. That said, diving into a piece of gear I have no familiarity with is done with some trepidation at times... I don't want to break anything

I hope all goes well whatever you decide to do
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post #31078 of 31279 Old 05-16-2019, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by confinoj View Post
My PC-4000s both make a similar sound when manually shutting off even after replacing both amps (for other reasons).
Quote:
Originally Posted by anand_raman View Post
Hmmm...I have dual sub and only one of them makes that noise though...If both were making I would have assumed it be the case but since only one of them is doing I was concerned..Oh well..If its not going to make any damage and from what I am hearing it might very well still happen I am questioning if I should even try to replace the amp...
Indeed, this is odd

Quote:
Originally Posted by anand_raman View Post
Hello,

I have Dual SVS SB16 Ultra and notice that one of them seem to exhibit a thump sound when I turn it off. Here is link to short video that I captured

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1k-...AOk1ahiCfKvrAq

You will hear a click (me turning it off) followed by that thump (can see woofer moving when that happens) and then followed by another click which is me turning it back on. Is that thump sound something common? I dont see the same issue with my other unit though and hence my concern. I have reached out to SVS customer support and they are looking into it as we speak but wanted to check here and see if you have experienced similar and whats the issue it could be?

Thanks!
The thump sound is often heard with many subs, no matter the brand. When switching a sub to On or Off manually.
Due to some Capacitor charging or discharging very fast, after a signal is present or no longer present. Depending of the Amp design.
The reason I leave mines on the Auto set-up, no thump what so ever


Darth
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Last edited by darthray; 05-17-2019 at 06:00 AM.
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post #31079 of 31279 Old 05-17-2019, 07:20 AM
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The noise you're experiencing is the driver being over driven and bottoming out. Something that is very hard to do with SVS subs. It's sealed so there is no port to produce the "farting" noise that is called "chuffing".



You need a more powerful sub since it seems you like everything extremely loud.
Yup toy're right the sub was not properly calibrated. It turns out i had the suwboofer 20-30 db "hot". I was using a spl meter which i thought was c weighted but was actually a weighted. All is good now and i actually have a pb 2000 now
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post #31080 of 31279 Old 05-18-2019, 02:12 AM
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I Have a couple questions before pulling the trigger and trading SB13u to PC4000 for my apartment.

1. The floors are laminated concrete and i have people living downstairs that havent really noticed/bothered with me playing SB13u (playing moderately loud only at casual times not sleeping times) so is the downfiring PC4000 going to sound 'more' to the people living downstairs?

2. Only using boosted (DEQ, +bass trim) moderate volume levels is the upgrade bringing more grunt to movies thats worth the trade? What i mean is, can there be heard/feld difference in 10-20hz range that can be boosted in even lower volume levels in going to ported subwoofer or am i just blowing trades and not archieving anything spectacular without making the neighbours angry?

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