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post #31081 of 31618 Old 05-18-2019, 04:34 AM
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I think if you are listening to -20 and below then the difference will be big (that also depends how much bass boost you are aplying)...but if you are not listening very loud (moderate) then i doubt the difference will be big...but the more you will crank your system the bigger the difference will be especially with movies that has a strong content in 16-30hz...higher than this there wont be much difference...depends on your listening habits
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post #31082 of 31618 Old 05-18-2019, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by pau View Post
I Have a couple questions before pulling the trigger and trading SB13u to PC4000 for my apartment.

1. The floors are laminated concrete and i have people living downstairs that havent really noticed/bothered with me playing SB13u (playing moderately loud only at casual times not sleeping times) so is the downfiring PC4000 going to sound 'more' to the people living downstairs?

2. Only using boosted (DEQ, +bass trim) moderate volume levels is the upgrade bringing more grunt to movies thats worth the trade? What i mean is, can there be heard/feld difference in 10-20hz range that can be boosted in even lower volume levels in going to ported subwoofer or am i just blowing trades and not archieving anything spectacular without making the neighbours angry?

Hi,

If you are interested in having more low-frequency bass, that can be both heard and felt, then the upgrade will be worth the trade. The PC4000 will have a lot more <35Hz SPL than the SB13 has, and it will also produce a lot more tactile energy. That's the low-bass you can feel. Those low-frequency sound waves, and the unheard vibrations that accompany them, do travel through adjoining spaces though, so as you add more low-frequency SPL and TR (tactile response) compared to what you have now, you will need to continue to be careful about your neighbors.

Perhaps you could invite them up for a movie sometime and discuss ways that they can let you know, politely, if your movie watching ever starts to really bother them. And, on those occasions, you would just back-off the volume of the sub, or use one of several other measures to reduce the low-bass. It won't be primarily the direction that the driver points, however, which determines whether they can feel or hear something.

Bass sound waves radiate omnidirectionally from the cabinet, and the ports (which point upward on the PC4000) probably contribute even more to the particle velocity (air movement) which helps to create the low-frequency vibrations we feel. Those vibrations are carried through the air, although the concrete floor will also carry some vibrations. (Since you are on a suspended concrete floor, I would probably try putting something under the sub, such as isolation feet or a SubDude, just in case.) But, the vibrations that you feel won't be primarily from the sub's physical contact with the floor, or from the down-firing driver--the vibrations are carried mainly through the air, the way they are in a thunderstorm. I hope all of that made sense.

I would do the upgrade, if I were interested in having what you described as more "grunt" to movies. The PC4000 will have a little deeper tone, even after Audyssey EQ's it, and even at moderate volume levels. But, you will always still control the volume and you will always have multiple ways to back-off the low-bass a bit when you want to (different tuning options, RLO settings, Low Frequency Containment, sub volume, etc.). And, on those occasions when you really do want to cut loose, it will deliver much more of what you are looking for than the sealed model will. The PC4000 is also a little better subwoofer with some cool features.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #31083 of 31618 Old 05-18-2019, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommaazz View Post
I think if you are listening to -20 and below then the difference will be big (that also depends how much bass boost you are aplying)...but if you are not listening very loud (moderate) then i doubt the difference will be big...but the more you will crank your system the bigger the difference will be especially with movies that has a strong content in 16-30hz...higher than this there wont be much difference...depends on your listening habits
My listenings are usually -30 ... -20 mark (calibrated to 75db) with some bass boost applied so there is that. But from time to time i really would prefer some more from the SB13 so mayby the <20Hz is easier to tune 'alive' without boosting the whole subwoofer range too much.

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Hi,

If you are interested in having more low-frequency bass, that can be both heard and felt, then the upgrade will be worth the trade. The PC4000 will have a lot more <35Hz SPL than the SB13 has, and it will also produce a lot more tactile energy. That's the low-bass you can feel. Those low-frequency sound waves, and the unheard vibrations that accompany them, do travel through adjoining spaces though, so as you add more low-frequency SPL and TR (tactile response) compared to what you have now, you will need to continue to be careful about your neighbors.

Perhaps you could invite them up for a movie sometime and discuss ways that they can let you know, politely, if your movie watching ever starts to really bother them. And, on those occasions, you would just back-off the volume of the sub, or use one of several other measures to reduce the low-bass. It won't be primarily the direction that the driver points, however, which determines whether they can feel or hear something.

Bass sound waves radiate omnidirectionally from the cabinet, and the ports (which point upward on the PC4000) probably contribute even more to the particle velocity (air movement) which helps to create the low-frequency vibrations we feel. Those vibrations are carried through the air, although the concrete floor will also carry some vibrations. (Since you are on a suspended concrete floor, I would probably try putting something under the sub, such as isolation feet or a SubDude, just in case.) But, the vibrations that you feel won't be primarily from the sub's physical contact with the floor, or from the down-firing driver--the vibrations are carried mainly through the air, the way they are in a thunderstorm. I hope all of that made sense.

I would do the upgrade, if I were interested in having what you described as more "grunt" to movies. The PC4000 will have a little deeper tone, even after Audyssey EQ's it, and even at moderate volume levels. But, you will always still control the volume and you will always have multiple ways to back-off the low-bass a bit when you want to (different tuning options, RLO settings, Low Frequency Containment, sub volume, etc.). And, on those occasions when you really do want to cut loose, it will deliver much more of what you are looking for than the sealed model will. The PC4000 is also a little better subwoofer with some cool features.

Regards,
Mike
PC-4000 has SVS's own subwoofer feets,

SoundPath Subwoofer Isolation System for Cleaner, Tighter Bass with Less Room Rattle
Elastomer feet on the PC-4000 improve bass performance while reducing floor and wall vibrations, noise artifacts and complaints from neighbors or roommates. De-coupling a subwoofer from the floor results in inherently tighter and cleaner sounding bass. It’s also the next best thing to sound-proofing and ideal for carpeted rooms, hardwood floors or any space where room rattles, buzzes or vibrations are present.

Do you think it would help to add another or do they work the same as a subdude would do?

I've arranged the sales and going to do it hopefully next weekend. Will post the differences once heard in the house and definately will keep with the neighbours so that dont end up at war with them.

The space to fill is around 3200 cubic feets (including opening to kitchen and lounge) so that allso might favor the ported version in low frequencies? It might have been a bit stretch for the sealed but then again i have really enjoyed the sound and havent graved more for last 4 years except now.
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post #31084 of 31618 Old 05-18-2019, 08:12 AM
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That juice is definitely worth the squeeze, as mike has already pointed out.
Maybe you could run some demo scenes at rising volume levels and have the lower neighbor text or call when it gets to be too much for them. Then you’ll have a baseline. For example, if -5mv is consistently too loud for them, but -10 is unnoticed, then you know your normal -20 with the occasional spirited session is safe.
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post #31085 of 31618 Old 05-18-2019, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Perhaps you could invite them up for a movie sometime and discuss ways that they can let you know, politely, if your movie watching ever starts to really bother them. And, on those occasions, you would just back-off the volume of the sub, or use one of several other measures to reduce the low-bass.
If you do end up inviting the neighbors over make sure it's when you have the SB13 because it's a pretty small subwoofer. If they see the PC4000 - which is the size of a 50 gallon hot water heater - the visual alone might cause them to object.
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post #31086 of 31618 Old 05-18-2019, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polyrythm1k View Post
That juice is definitely worth the squeeze, as mike has already pointed out.
Maybe you could run some demo scenes at rising volume levels and have the lower neighbor text or call when it gets to be too much for them. Then you’ll have a baseline. For example, if -5mv is consistently too loud for them, but -10 is unnoticed, then you know your normal -20 with the occasional spirited session is safe.
Going to be exciting times to see when the rattles begin if i'm correct about the low level differences to the point where even the downstairs start to have lamps shaking.

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If you do end up inviting the neighbors over make sure it's when you have the SB13 because it's a pretty small subwoofer. If they see the PC4000 - which is the size of a 50 gallon hot water heater - the visual alone might cause them to object.
I bet even the SB13 would scare them. Better not to tell where the sound is coming at. Might just point the center channel and tell the rumble is from that. Good thing about PC4000 i can allways say its a cat pole and not speaker.

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post #31087 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 03:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by pau View Post
I Have a couple questions before pulling the trigger and trading SB13u to PC4000 for my apartment.

1. The floors are laminated concrete and i have people living downstairs that havent really noticed/bothered with me playing SB13u (playing moderately loud only at casual times not sleeping times) so is the downfiring PC4000 going to sound 'more' to the people living downstairs?

2. Only using boosted (DEQ, +bass trim) moderate volume levels is the upgrade bringing more grunt to movies thats worth the trade? What i mean is, can there be heard/feld difference in 10-20hz range that can be boosted in even lower volume levels in going to ported subwoofer or am i just blowing trades and not archieving anything spectacular without making the neighbours angry? [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]

Hi,

If you are interested in having more low-frequency bass, that can be both heard and felt, then the upgrade will be worth the trade. The PC4000 will have a lot more <35Hz SPL than the SB13 has, and it will also produce a lot more tactile energy. That's the low-bass you can feel. Those low-frequency sound waves, and the unheard vibrations that accompany them, do travel through adjoining spaces though, so as you add more low-frequency SPL and TR (tactile response) compared to what you have now, you will need to continue to be careful about your neighbors.

Perhaps you could invite them up for a movie sometime and discuss ways that they can let you know, politely, if your movie watching ever starts to really bother them. And, on those occasions, you would just back-off the volume of the sub, or use one of several other measures to reduce the low-bass. It won't be primarily the direction that the driver points, however, which determines whether they can feel or hear something.

Bass sound waves radiate omnidirectionally from the cabinet, and the ports (which point upward on the PC4000) probably contribute even more to the particle velocity (air movement) which helps to create the low-frequency vibrations we feel. Those vibrations are carried through the air, although the concrete floor will also carry some vibrations. (Since you are on a suspended concrete floor, I would probably try putting something under the sub, such as isolation feet or a SubDude, just in case.) But, the vibrations that you feel won't be primarily from the sub's physical contact with the floor, or from the down-firing driver--the vibrations are carried mainly through the air, the way they are in a thunderstorm. I hope all of that made sense. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif[/IMG]

I would do the upgrade, if I were interested in having what you described as more "grunt" to movies. The PC4000 will have a little deeper tone, even after Audyssey EQ's it, and even at moderate volume levels. But, you will always still control the volume and you will always have multiple ways to back-off the low-bass a bit when you want to (different tuning options, RLO settings, Low Frequency Containment, sub volume, etc.). And, on those occasions when you really do want to cut loose, it will deliver much more of what you are looking for than the sealed model will. The PC4000 is also a little better subwoofer with some cool features. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]

Regards,
Mike
The PC4000s come with noise isolation feet btw

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post #31088 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 09:33 AM
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I'm thinking about getting the SB-1000. The PB-1000 will be to big to fit in my area. Can anyone tell me the quality and sound this will produce? I'll be running it with a older Yamaha 7.1 and have RP 250's as my mains and RP 600M for my rears. I have read multiple rave reviews on this sub. I want to stick with this model because its small enough to stick in my corner and somewhat hide because its small. Thanks
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post #31089 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 10:23 AM
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I'm thinking about getting the SB-1000. The PB-1000 will be to big to fit in my area. Can anyone tell me the quality and sound this will produce? I'll be running it with a older Yamaha 7.1 and have RP 250's as my mains and RP 600M for my rears. I have read multiple rave reviews on this sub. I want to stick with this model because its small enough to stick in my corner and somewhat hide because its small. Thanks
If your use case is primarily HT and want to enjoy the LFE in today’s blockbuster action movies, the PB (ported) version is the overwhelming choice. Many uninitiated or novice buyers allow size, aesthetics, or placement possibilities to govern the buy decision and later experience less than satisfactory bass performance for HT and subsequently upgrade to a ported sub. The decision comes down to optimal performance or an item that must be hidden. The adage for subwoofers has always been...there is no replacement for displacement. Good luck with your decision.

Epson: 5040UB | Elite: 115" Fixed Frame CinemaScope (2.35:1) | Onkyo: TX-RZ920 + M-5010 (7.2.4) | Klipsch: RF-7 II's, RC-64 II, RS-62 II, RB-61 II MICCA: M-8C (Atmos) x 6 | SVS: PB16-Ultra x 2 | Philips: BDP7501, Panasonic: DMP UB900, Oppo: UDP-203
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post #31090 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 10:49 AM
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Yeah, I would definitely work on placement and see what you can do. Not hands on familiar with arc. Does it address phase? Also, the resolution on each graph is different so if they were scaled the same, they might look more similar. And yeah, for sure that dip is right in the area of a lot of music bass. I wonder if the klipsch was easier to place since it covers less frequencies, and probably has a bump in the 50-60 range. Maybe I should go to sleep... lol
So, I spent All weekend looking for a sub location thats relativly flat at 60-70Hz.

Only found one location that clears up the huge dip. If I turn the sub 90 degrees in the original location and face the woofer at the side of the entertaiment table, it measures better.

In the attached photo I turned it back forward, see the arrow for the direction I turned it.

Just not sure if this a good idea to have the woofer blasting into the side of the table. Then again, i guess its no different than a downfiring sub firing into the floor 3 inches away like i previously had.

You think This is ok?


Something I am also wondering about the is the room correction target curve and applied curve.

After room correction (I am using Anthem Arc Genesis on an MRX 520) its seems to correct it pretty flat. However doing another measurment after the corretions are uploaded, the curves don't reflect the corrections. How are we supposd to trust those curves?
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post #31091 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by test4echo101 View Post
So, I spent All weekend looking for a sub location thats relativly flat at 60-70Hz.

Only found one location that clears up the huge dip. If I turn the sub 90 degrees in the original location and face the woofer at the side of the entertaiment table, it measures better.

In the attached photo I turned it back forward, see the arrow for the direction I turned it.

Just not sure if this a good idea to have the woofer blasting into the side of the table. Then again, i guess its no different than a downfiring sub firing into the floor 3 inches away like i previously had.

You think This is ok?


Something I am also wondering about the is the room correction target curve and applied curve.

After room correction (I am using Anthem Arc Genesis on an MRX 520) its seems to correct it pretty flat. However doing another measurment after the corretions are uploaded, the curves don't reflect the corrections. How are we supposd to trust those curves?

Interesting... Have you tried measuring the Sub facing forward as shown and adjusting the phase? You may get the improved response while still allowing the driver to face forward.


I would also suggest (if space allows) separating the cabinet / sub / front speaker a bit. They seem very close together IMO.
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post #31092 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 11:20 AM
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If your use case is primarily HT and want to enjoy the LFE in today’s blockbuster action movies, the PB (ported) version is the overwhelming choice. Many uninitiated or novice buyers allow size, aesthetics, or placement possibilities to govern the buy decision and later experience less than satisfactory bass performance for HT and subsequently upgrade to a ported sub. The decision comes down to optimal performance or an item that must be hidden. The adage for subwoofers has always been...there is no replacement for displacement. Good luck with your decision.
This post should mandatory for all new people who have never purchase a subwoofer. People should know what subs are capable of based on your room size, extension, and output. When you understand the differences between ported and sealed, 10"/12" and 15"
subs you can then avoid being disappointed with your choice. For most people optimal performance will trump aesthetics and placement possibilities. First listen to different subs to see how they sound, next purchase the sub that sound good to you and fits your budget. Understand that higher price subs will sound difference than the sub you have budgeted. listen to subs that cost more than you have in your budget. Use SVS to make theses evaluation, due to there trial period and free shipping both ways. If you do these things you will be making a informed decision. I am not saying that you cannot make your choice based on aesthetics and placement possibilities, but understand what trade off you are making and why.

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post #31093 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by test4echo101 View Post
So, I spent All weekend looking for a sub location thats relativly flat at 60-70Hz.

Only found one location that clears up the huge dip. If I turn the sub 90 degrees in the original location and face the woofer at the side of the entertaiment table, it measures better.

In the attached photo I turned it back forward, see the arrow for the direction I turned it.

Just not sure if this a good idea to have the woofer blasting into the side of the table. Then again, i guess its no different than a downfiring sub firing into the floor 3 inches away like i previously had.

You think This is ok?


Something I am also wondering about the is the room correction target curve and applied curve.

After room correction (I am using Anthem Arc Genesis on an MRX 520) its seems to correct it pretty flat. However doing another measurment after the corretions are uploaded, the curves don't reflect the corrections. How are we supposd to trust those curves?

Hi,

I have several observations. First, the corrected graph you see is just a visual approximation of what ARC is attempting to do. ARC doesn't have a way to actually measure its own post-calibration results. As with similar before-and-after Audyssey graphs, you need to take them with a grain of salt. You should trust what you can actually measure, and what you can actually hear. And of the two, I would always put how things sound as the highest priority. If turning the subwoofer 90 degrees gave you better mid-bass measurements, and above all, better sound, then I think that the combination of better sub positioning and ARC room correction was successful.

With respect to clearance from the front of the subwoofer, the main concern would be giving the ports enough room to breathe in and out. The grille helps with that, since it stands out away from the front of the sub. If I were you, I would move the speaker over a few more inches to allow just a little more clearance for the sub, but even a gap of about 4" or so would probably be enough.

As you concluded, there should be no practical difference in the overall quality of the bass by rotating the subwoofer to one side, and it may help the frequency response. You may lose just a bit of tactile response if the driver and ports face away from your listening position, but I suspect that the difference would be modest or imperceptible unless the subwoofer were being played at pretty high volume levels to start with. For instance, some people like the port wind sensation, but it takes some serious oomph to achieve it. Everything is a compromise. Personally, port wind has never held much appeal for me.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #31094 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by gene4ht View Post
If your use case is primarily HT and want to enjoy the LFE in today’s blockbuster action movies, the PB (ported) version is the overwhelming choice. Many uninitiated or novice buyers allow size, aesthetics, or placement possibilities to govern the buy decision and later experience less than satisfactory bass performance for HT and subsequently upgrade to a ported sub. The decision comes down to optimal performance or an item that must be hidden. The adage for subwoofers has always been...there is no replacement for displacement. Good luck with your decision.
The point I was trying to make was the dimensions are a tad to big for my area that it will be sitting. I know that seems a bit funny, but my space is limited and I need to work with what I have. But with some moving some furniture around it could work out. My HT room is a small dorm like room upstairs in our house. So as I said space is limited. Back to my original post I asked what is the quality like and what sound this will produce?
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post #31095 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by gene4ht View Post
If your use case is primarily HT and want to enjoy the LFE in today’s blockbuster action movies, the PB (ported) version is the overwhelming choice. Many uninitiated or novice buyers allow size, aesthetics, or placement possibilities to govern the buy decision and later experience less than satisfactory bass performance for HT and subsequently upgrade to a ported sub. The decision comes down to optimal performance or an item that must be hidden. The adage for subwoofers has always been...there is no replacement for displacement. Good luck with your decision.
Coupled with the popular belief that you need a sealed sub for "musical" tight/accurate bass, which seems to always seems to get instilled from those initial layers of sub research for some reason.

Move some furniture around and get the biggest ported sub you can live with. Wouldn't mention anything specific in another manufacturer's dedicated thread, but there are good deals lately on mid sized ported subs. Because unless @buckeye1966 is in a very small cu. ft. HT, I fear a small low powered sealed sub will underwhelm.

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post #31096 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 04:00 PM
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The point I was trying to make was the dimensions are a tad to big for my area that it will be sitting. I know that seems a bit funny, but my space is limited and I need to work with what I have. But with some moving some furniture around it could work out. My HT room is a small dorm like room upstairs in our house. So as I said space is limited. Back to my original post I asked what is the quality like and what sound this will produce?

Hi,

I'm not exactly sure what you are looking for here? In your first post you said that "I have read multiple rave reviews on this sub." What can anyone on this owner's thread tell you that you haven't already read? Sound quality is subjective, and it is difficult to describe the sound quality of a subwoofer except in relation to another subwoofer.

I second Gene's recommendation to take advantage of SVS's free-trial period to determine for yourself how you like the sound of the subwoofer in your room. I also agree with several posters who have advised you to move things around, if necessary, in order to buy the biggest subwoofer you can afford and can accommodate.

If your only interest is music, and your listening levels are not extremely loud, then I would recommend an SB2000 over the SB1000. It's a better subwoofer! If you are interested in movies, then you may find that you will want a ported subwoofer, rather than a sealed sub, for the greater amount of low-bass and for the increased low-bass tactile sensations..

Again, I'm certain that the rave reviews you read attempted to describe the sound characteristics of the SB1000. Personally, I don't think that you will know exactly what the sound quality is like, or how much subwoofage you really need, until you actually try one of these subs in your room. That is what the free 45-day trial period is for, and I think that savvy consumers should take advantage of it.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #31097 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by buckeye1966 View Post
The point I was trying to make was the dimensions are a tad to big for my area that it will be sitting. I know that seems a bit funny, but my space is limited and I need to work with what I have. But with some moving some furniture around it could work out. My HT room is a small dorm like room upstairs in our house. So as I said space is limited. Back to my original post I asked what is the quality like and what sound this will produce?
First, sound quality (SQ) is very subjective. Second, as other members/respondents have suggested, it would be very beneficial for you to audition various types and qualities of subs to understand your own preferences. Since you have an “HT” room, it is highly recommended to default to ported subs as these produce both the gratifying LFE (low frequency effects)...extension (low end) and SPL (loudness) that current movies contain. Alternatively, sealed subs (smaller & less costly) are typically the domain of music use cases. There is no compromise...ported (larger and typically costlier) for HT and sealed for music. Further, to maximize/optimize any sub’s performance, it is necessary to identify its optimum placement in any given room relative to the MLP (main listening position). Serious enthusiasts are not deterred by aesthetics, sub size, furniture placement, etc. If you’re still with me, the following two suggestions will provide all the necessary information you’ll need for you decision.

1. Although a lengthy read, review/peruse the valuable information at the folllowing link...

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...eferences.html

2, If you are unable to audition various subs at retailers/dealers/friends/family, take advantage of SVS’s Bill Of Rights and audition the subs of your choice in your home at no cost to you.
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I'm thinking about getting the SB-1000. The PB-1000 will be to big to fit in my area. Can anyone tell me the quality and sound this will produce? I'll be running it with a older Yamaha 7.1 and have RP 250's as my mains and RP 600M for my rears. I have read multiple rave reviews on this sub. I want to stick with this model because its small enough to stick in my corner and somewhat hide because its small. Thanks
It sounds like you have a small sealed room, which is a plus for the SB1000. My take is that it is just going to run out of gas if you like blockbuster action movies or play anything loudly. Fortunately, SVS is really good at limiting their subwoofers, so they max out gracefully, and you might not even realize you are at their limits.
That being said, if you think a ported is too much hassle to fit in your room, I would go up the SVS food chain as far as you are willing to afford, at least the SB2000, and even better, the SB3000. You can check the outlet for deals, as well.
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It sounds like you have a small sealed room, which is a plus for the SB1000. My take is that it is just going to run out of gas if you like blockbuster action movies or play anything loudly. Fortunately, SVS is really good at limiting their subwoofers, so they max out gracefully, and you might not even realize you are at their limits.
That being said, if you think a ported is too much hassle to fit in your room, I would go up the SVS food chain as far as you are willing to afford, at least the SB2000, and even better, the SB3000. You can check the outlet for deals, as well.
Can you be a bit more specific when you say its going to run of gas if I like blockbuster action movies. And how does it max out?
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Can you be a bit more specific when you say its going to run of gas if I like blockbuster action movies. And how does it max out?
I highly recommend reviewing the guide authored by @mthomas47 to gain the knowledge necessary to make an informed decision. At the minimum, review sections 8a and 8b.
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Can you be a bit more specific when you say its going to run of gas if I like blockbuster action movies. And how does it max out?


My interpretation of that statement is that at some point, even when you increase the master volume, the subs output will fail to increase with it. The limiters in SVS subs are very good if not a little aggressive. (Maybe?) so there’s little danger of damage. Problem is, you will possibly be looking for more deep bass output and end up disappointed with your new purchase. Quality bass is an investment, and obviously it matters to you since your asking questions. I will echo the above and say go for the largest, most expensive sub you can comfortably live with, and don’t look back.
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post #31102 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 05:47 PM
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My interpretation of that statement is that at some point, even when you increase the master volume, the subs output will fail to increase with it. The limiters in SVS subs are very good if not a little aggressive. (Maybe?) so there’s little danger of damage. Problem is, you will possibly be looking for more deep bass output and end up disappointed with your new purchase. Quality bass is an investment, and obviously it matters to you since your asking questions. I will echo the above and say go for the largest, most expensive sub you can comfortably live with, and don’t look back.
Until the OP gains the neccessay knowledge and experience, our responses will have very little “real world” relevance. The first step is typically the most difficult.

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post #31103 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 05:49 PM
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Until the OP gains the neccessay knowledge and experience, our responses will have very little “real world” relevance. The fist step is typically the most difficult.


That’s definitely fair to say. Some things can’t be put into words. I think it’s like a “once you know you can never go back” thing.
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post #31104 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 06:28 PM
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Can you be a bit more specific when you say its going to run of gas if I like blockbuster action movies. And how does it max out?
A relatively inexpensive subwoofer like the sb1000 just isn't going to be able to play that loudly. A blockbuster action film is going to have a lot of effects that it will not be able to reproduce with any kind of volume. I had a slightly better, older model, the sb12nsd, and the only reason I knew I was going beyond it's capabilities was the LED overload light would come on. I don't think the newer SVS subwoofers have that. However, SVS is able to limit the signal so that you don't hear bad noises, etc, it just automatically limits the volume so that the subwoofer doesn't go beyond its abilities.

With SVS, you can buy a subwoofer, and upgrade later, but most people that start with a small, inexpensive subwoofer like the sb1000 seem to upgrade pretty quickly. I think Mike's recommendation to start with at least the sb2000 is spot on.

I just checked the outlet, and there aren't any SB3000 in it. People must be pretty satisfied with it, and not returning theirs. However, if you don't mind a subwoofer with scuff marks since you sound like you are kind of hiding it, you can get a discount for an SB2000 in the outlet.

https://www.svsound.com/collections/...ice_$500-$1000

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post #31105 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 06:34 PM
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My interpretation of that statement is that at some point, even when you increase the master volume, the subs output will fail to increase with it. The limiters in SVS subs are very good if not a little aggressive. (Maybe?) so there’s little danger of damage. Problem is, you will possibly be looking for more deep bass output and end up disappointed with your new purchase. Quality bass is an investment, and obviously it matters to you since your asking questions. I will echo the above and say go for the largest, most expensive sub you can comfortably live with, and don’t look back.
Yup. I ended up with 4 SB12-NSD, played music very loudly at times, had the overload light flash often when doing that, but never heard a bad noise as SVS' limiting programming worked very well. I don't have a small room, and got no room gain with them. I only played a few action films while I had them, and again, the overload LED came on, but I didn't hear any bad noises, but I'm no golden ear.
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post #31106 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 06:44 PM
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Yup. I ended up with 4 SB12-NSD, played music very loudly at times, had the overload light flash often when doing that, but never heard a bad noise as SVS' limiting programming worked very well. I don't have a small room, and got no room gain with them. I only played a few action films while I had them, and again, the overload LED came on, but I didn't hear any bad noises, but I'm no golden ear.


Lol, fwiw I feel like “golden ears” are usually SELF imposed.

I see you found your way to some very capable subwoofers. They’re on my wish list, someday...
I kinda feel like the NSD’s, and pb1k’s etc are “gateway” subs lol. Better than BB subs, but not in the same realm as great ID subs. It’s like, once you get a taste...
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post #31107 of 31618 Old 05-19-2019, 06:52 PM
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Lol, fwiw I feel like “golden ears” are usually SELF imposed.

I see you found your way to some very capable subwoofers. They’re on my wish list, someday...
I kinda feel like the NSD’s, and pb1k’s etc are “gateway” subs lol. Better than BB subs, but not in the same realm as great ID subs. It’s like, once you get a taste...
Yup, and when I can afford it, two more, then I'll stop. I have no problem recommending the SB12NSD, they sounded great, but my Rythmiks sound even better.

If my room was smaller, I'd probably still have them, tbh. I don't need super low extension for my normal listening, just lots of SPL.
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Yup, and when I can afford it, two more, then I'll stop. I have no problem recommending the SB12NSD, they sounded great, but my Rythmiks sound even better.



If my room was smaller, I'd probably still have them, tbh. I don't need super low extension for my normal listening, just lots of SPL.


I’ve never experienced the NSD’s personally but do have hands on with the SB2k. It’s no output beast, but man that little guy is smoooth. Great sounding subwoofer.
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post #31109 of 31618 Old 05-20-2019, 05:38 AM
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Can you be a bit more specific when you say its going to run of gas if I like blockbuster action movies. And how does it max out?
Simply, if you want your bass to hit deep & hard, a single small sealed sub will leave you wanting.

Sci Fi space ship engine rumble, horror movie pressure ambiance, deep bass punctuation of super heroes doing powerful otherwordly stuff, earthquakes & thunder to feel real, most anything underwater for some reason. I mean if you want a system to handle what you want, yeah. You need the bass.


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post #31110 of 31618 Old 05-20-2019, 05:48 AM
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That’s definitely fair to say. Some things can’t be put into words. I think it’s like a “once you know you can never go back” thing.
Exactly...you just have to experience it to know....first date, first kiss, first.......

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