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post #31231 of 31371 Old 06-14-2019, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigzee3 View Post
Hi guys, Has anyone played around with sub distance settings after Audyssey?. I know some people add a few feet and was wondering if anyone had some feedback.
Sub distance tweak is completely dependent on your setup so a general recommendation can not be given. Audyssey does not measure combined response of subs and main speakers, it only measures individual speaker response unfortunately. For some people there can be significant negative interaction around the crossover and even well below and above. You really need REW to sort this out though. For me with my mains up front and subs in the rear I get a marked null in mid base region that needs to be rectified with sub distance adjustment. Below link is quick version of how to do it.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...l#post55770290
Thanks,

Audyssey set about 1.5 foot distance delay on my sub from actual location so almost no delay at all. It sounds good to me but was curious about the tweak.
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post #31232 of 31371 Old 06-14-2019, 03:54 PM
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I’m currently reconfiguring my space so that I can add dual SB-3000 subs. I’m curious whether it would be best to place them in the corners of the space and move my speakers inward or place the subs inside my current speakers (pic 2)? I will be buying a smaller 40” wide media cabinet (pic 2) than the current one (69”) to make room for the subs. I’m leaning toward placing the subs inside the speakers to create a wider soundstage. I live in a townhouse so I prefer to have tight bass rather than the booming bass that would disturb my neighbors.

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post #31233 of 31371 Old 06-14-2019, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mbroadus View Post
I’m currently reconfiguring my space so that I can add dual SB-3000 subs. I’m curious whether it would be best to place them in the corners of the space and move my speakers inward or place the subs inside my current speakers (pic 2)? I will be buying a smaller 40” wide media cabinet (pic 2) than the current one (69”) to make room for the subs. I’m leaning toward placing the subs inside the speakers to create a wider soundstage. I live in a townhouse so I prefer to have tight bass rather than the booming bass that would disturb my neighbors.

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Hi,

It's difficult to know in advance where subwoofers will sound the best. Like you, I would prefer to have a wider front soundstage. Trying to get a roughly equilateral triangle with the two front speakers and the main listening position also isn't a bad idea. So, I would start by trying the subs more toward the center with the speakers where they are now.

If you don't like the way that the subs sound in that arrangement, you can always experiment with the subs in the corners (although probably not pushed all the way back into the corners) and with the speakers pulled-out a bit in front of the subs. The speakers wouldn't necessarily have to be between the subs and the display.

You can also try one sub somewhere on the front wall and one sub behind the listening position somewhere. Front/back center wall or 1/4 wall, or diagonal corners can sometimes work well. I'm sorry for offering even more options than the ones you started with, but there really is some degree of trial-and-error involved in this if you are interested in experimenting.

Of course, sometimes we just put subwoofers wherever they seem to look the best, and live with whatever they happen to sound like in those positions. As with most things in audio, there is a degree of YMMV involved in subwoofer placement.

Regards,
Mike
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post #31234 of 31371 Old 06-14-2019, 05:39 PM
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@mthomas47 - thanks for the info. I really do not have a whole lot options since I have such a small space and was going to buy 1 SB-3000 and place it on a side wall but heard that’s not the best place unless there’s dual on opposing side walls. It’s going to cost me a lot of coin to switch my configuration so I hope it sounds good. I see a lot of pics on Instagram with similar placements in the front so hopefully I’ll be making a good decision.


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post #31235 of 31371 Old 06-18-2019, 12:58 PM
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What is a realistic price to ask if I am trying to sell my PB-2000? I got it last March. Looking at selling and doing two DIY subs in its place.
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post #31236 of 31371 Old 06-18-2019, 02:31 PM
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What is a realistic price to ask if I am trying to sell my PB-2000? I got it last March. Looking at selling and doing two DIY subs in its place.


Looking at these sold on eBay in the last couple of months in used condition they are going for $699 shipped.
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post #31237 of 31371 Old 06-19-2019, 01:47 PM
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Hi Everyone,

I currently have a single PB-2000 in a 21x22 room with an 8 ft ceiling. I am looking to upgrade my subwoofer situation. I can only do a single subwoofer setup in my current room. I have the Ultra Towers and Center. I originally wanted the PB-4000 but after seeing it in person. I am thinking it is just too massive for my space and my wife. LOL. So, I am looking at sealed boxes and do not like the way the PC-4000 looks. Would there be a night and day difference in low bass frequencies output between the PB-2000 vs the SB-4000 or SB16-Ultra? I am looking for that low impact for movies and I haven't seen a discussion on comparing the PB-2000 to the SB-4000 or SB16 Ultra. I was hoping the size/power difference would compensate for a non-ported design.
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post #31238 of 31371 Old 06-19-2019, 04:19 PM
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How difficult is it to find a used SVS SB12-NSD? Can't find any on eBay, Amazon or the SVS page.
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post #31239 of 31371 Old 06-19-2019, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradley Smith View Post
I currently have a single PB-2000 in a 21x22 room with an 8 ft ceiling. I am looking to upgrade my subwoofer situation. I can only do a single subwoofer setup in my current room. I have the Ultra Towers and Center. I originally wanted the PB-4000 but after seeing it in person. I am thinking it is just too massive for my space and my wife. LOL. So, I am looking at sealed boxes and do not like the way the PC-4000 looks. Would there be a night and day difference in low bass frequencies output between the PB-2000 vs the SB-4000 or SB16-Ultra? I am looking for that low impact for movies and I haven't seen a discussion on comparing the PB-2000 to the SB-4000 or SB16 Ultra. I was hoping the size/power difference would compensate for a non-ported design.
Your room is about 3700 ft^3, so a pretty good size. Given that you want "low impact for movies" ported is really your best option. A pair of SB-4000's or SB16-Ultra's would likely get you there, but I don't think a single would. Like certain other things, size matters with subwoofers; big space = big subs. Physics will not be denied I'm afraid.

If the PB-4000 is too large what about the PB-3000? That thing has some kick. This isn't a concrete basement by chance, is it? If so, you're going to need a lot more than a single ported subwoofer to get the sensations you're after.
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post #31240 of 31371 Old 06-19-2019, 07:01 PM
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Any insight on weather a single SB16-Ultra or single PB16-Ultra could keep up with a pair of MFW-15s in a 20x16x9 room. The MFWs are close 8 (or so) years old and am wondering if they are worth replacing at this point. I am wanting to go single to save some space around the screen. I am also moving from Rocket 850 signatures to some onwalls (Axiom M80) as well to clean things up. What do you all think?

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post #31241 of 31371 Old 06-19-2019, 08:07 PM
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Official SVS Owners/Support Thread.

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How difficult is it to find a used SVS SB12-NSD? Can't find any on eBay, Amazon or the SVS page.

Here you go. EBay

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post #31242 of 31371 Old 06-19-2019, 09:50 PM
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Here you go. EBay

Who would buy this? New one comes on sale very often at $399
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post #31243 of 31371 Old 06-19-2019, 09:51 PM
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Infact, I have been wondering about this. NSD is frequently on sale at $399.

What is missing in SB 12 NSD that makes is so much less expensive than SV1000 or SB2000?

Is it the DSP quality or the power rating or the finish or is it something else?

What do we lose in sound quality in 12 NSD compared to these other more expensing SVS subs?
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post #31244 of 31371 Old 06-19-2019, 10:28 PM
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Infact, I have been wondering about this. NSD is frequently on sale at $399.

What is missing in SB 12 NSD that makes is so much less expensive than SV1000 or SB2000?

Is it the DSP quality or the power rating or the finish or is it something else?

What do we lose in sound quality in 12 NSD compared to these other more expensing SVS subs?
The 12NSD slots in between the 1000 and 2000. It is the precursor to the 2000. Going by how it's sold, which is Christmas season until stock runs out, I think they make one batch in China each year, there is no R & D, they probably just dedicate their manufacturing plant to it for a week or so, and so on year after year. They reviewed well by Audioholics.
https://www.audioholics.com/subwoofe...d-introduction
https://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-reviews/pb12-nsd
I would definitely take an NSD over a 1000 series. More output, probably similar sound quality.

Spoiler!
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post #31245 of 31371 Old 06-20-2019, 12:37 AM
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The 12NSD slots in between the 1000 and 2000. It is the precursor to the 2000. Going by how it's sold, which is Christmas season until stock runs out, I think they make one batch in China each year, there is no R & D, they probably just dedicate their manufacturing plant to it for a week or so, and so on year after year. They reviewed well by Audioholics.

https://www.audioholics.com/subwoofe...d-introduction

https://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-reviews/pb12-nsd

I would definitely take an NSD over a 1000 series. More output, probably similar sound quality.
That sure sounds reasonable. But if expensive R&D is going into sb1000 and sb2000 that is making them more expensive, what are those improvements and how much sound quality do they improve over NSD 12?
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post #31246 of 31371 Old 06-20-2019, 05:39 AM
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That sure sounds reasonable. But if expensive R&D is going into sb1000 and sb2000 that is making them more expensive, what are those improvements and how much sound quality do they improve over NSD 12?
At this point, the R & D must be long since paid for on those, as well, so not sure what the business model is on them. Maybe the single batch of NSD is bigger, giving them better economies of scale, maybe the others are made in smaller batches throughout the year? Dunno. Maybe the profit margin is less on the NSD, but they don't care, because they know the whole batch will sell out quickly, and the idea is probably to introduce customers to SVS, with the hope they will purchase the more expensive, profitable ones later. Just wild guesses. It's probably easier and cheaper to make the NSD because they know they are going to make a certain amount at a certain time, and can have it perfectly planned each year during a slow time of year....

Spoiler!
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post #31247 of 31371 Old 06-20-2019, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradley Smith View Post
Hi Everyone,

I currently have a single PB-2000 in a 21x22 room with an 8 ft ceiling. I am looking to upgrade my subwoofer situation. I can only do a single subwoofer setup in my current room. I have the Ultra Towers and Center. I originally wanted the PB-4000 but after seeing it in person. I am thinking it is just too massive for my space and my wife. LOL. So, I am looking at sealed boxes and do not like the way the PC-4000 looks. Would there be a night and day difference in low bass frequencies output between the PB-2000 vs the SB-4000 or SB16-Ultra? I am looking for that low impact for movies and I haven't seen a discussion on comparing the PB-2000 to the SB-4000 or SB16 Ultra. I was hoping the size/power difference would compensate for a non-ported design.
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Any insight on weather a single SB16-Ultra or single PB16-Ultra could keep up with a pair of MFW-15s in a 20x16x9 room. The MFWs are close 8 (or so) years old and am wondering if they are worth replacing at this point. I am wanting to go single to save some space around the screen. I am also moving from Rocket 850 signatures to some onwalls (Axiom M80) as well to clean things up. What do you all think?


Hi,

I'm going to address both of these posts together, because the questions being asked are somewhat similar. @Jim Wilson already answered the first question, and I want to reinforce his answer. Larger cabinet volumes, combined with porting, allows subwoofers to play frequencies below about 35Hz with (much) more SPL than would be the case with comparable sealed subwoofers. Ported subs also produce more low-bass tactile response (TR) than their sealed counterparts, even if the SPL at low-frequencies is comparable.

People who become accustomed to those low-bass tactile sensations may really notice if they lose them in moving to sealed subs. So, for people who already have ported subs, and who like what they do at lower frequencies, it isn't just a matter of comparing SPL between their current subs and prospective sealed subs. Ported subs may produce as much as 2 to 4 times the SPL <30Hz of a comparable sealed model, and much more low-bass TR besides.

I agree that, for the first poster, upgrading to a PB3000 would probably be a good move. (Your PB2000 has much more SPL <30Hz than an SB4000, or even an SB16.) Personally, I would really try to make a PB4000 work. We all (including spouses) tend to become accustomed to larger subwoofers over time, and after a while we just treat them as pieces of furniture. That is particularly the case with subs which have nice finishes, such as the PB4000 in either piano black or black oak.



For the second poster, I would start with at least a PB4000, if I wanted to upgrade, and a PB16 would have even more SPL (and TR) below 35Hz than the PB4000 has. (It has ~3db more SPL below 35Hz, and it is a noticeable difference. Above ~35Hz, the PB 4000 and the PB16 would be equal.) I looked for reviews of your current subs and couldn't find much. A single PB4000 should handily beat those two subs below about 25 or 30Hz. But, I'm not sure about the mid-bass frequencies.

The nice thing about upgrading to a single more powerful sub is that you can always add a second one if you ever decide you need to. I know that's the opposite of downsizing, but most of us with fairly serious HT systems and interests have found that it's nice to be able to have options. And, when it comes to subwoofers, and having sufficient bass for movies, most of us have learned to never say never.

I hope this helps!

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

Last edited by mthomas47; 06-20-2019 at 07:05 AM.
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post #31248 of 31371 Old 06-20-2019, 01:52 PM
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Ive been on merlin....for my speakers,dali opticon lcr, it lists the 4000 series as the best match, question is would i get away with a pb13ultra and pb4000 as dual subs? Svs on chat say yes, coming from dual psa s1500. Over her in uk psa seem to not be interested and i fancy a upgrade.
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post #31249 of 31371 Old 06-20-2019, 02:48 PM
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Ive been on merlin....for my speakers,dali opticon lcr, it lists the 4000 series as the best match, question is would i get away with a pb13ultra and pb4000 as dual subs? Svs on chat say yes, coming from dual psa s1500. Over her in uk psa seem to not be interested and i fancy a upgrade.

Hi,

I definitely think that the PB4000 would be the closest match to the PB13 it replaced. If you already have a PB13, I would probably give it a try. (If not, I would try to buy two of the same model.)

The frequency response is going to be just a bit different, in any tuning mode, but the port tunes should be very similar. The real imponderable is something that I can't help with. Different DSP (digital signal processing) was used to shape the two different frequency responses. I'm not exactly sure what practical effect that has when the two subs operate together.

I believe that I might try to chat directly with Ed Mullen, if possible, to see if he can give you any additional insight on the question. I would try it unless Ed advises against it. Short of having identical model subs, that combination is probably as close as you can come to having two of the same thing.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
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post #31250 of 31371 Old 06-20-2019, 05:50 PM
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At this point, the R & D must be long since paid for on those, as well, so not sure what the business model is on them. Maybe the single batch of NSD is bigger, giving them better economies of scale, maybe the others are made in smaller batches throughout the year? Dunno. Maybe the profit margin is less on the NSD, but they don't care, because they know the whole batch will sell out quickly, and the idea is probably to introduce customers to SVS, with the hope they will purchase the more expensive, profitable ones later. Just wild guesses. It's probably easier and cheaper to make the NSD because they know they are going to make a certain amount at a certain time, and can have it perfectly planned each year during a slow time of year....
All points make sense....

Still wondering why SVS management will be willing to price NSD cheaper than SB1000 or SB2000. Why would they be willing to take less margin on this product compared to others? It would have been cheaper for SVS to just put SB1000 on sale or SB2000 on sale periodically (which they do) rather than start a new SKU and mange it's inventory separately.

Most often companies do that because the production cost of the old model (NSD) is cheaper than the current product (SB 1000 or 2000). Or if the older model is less capable and will not command the same price in the market. So in order to gain customers looking for a cheaper ( $399 ) speaker, NSD is produced.

Hopefully, we have someone here who works in one of sub manufacturers and can shed light here.
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post #31251 of 31371 Old 06-20-2019, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

I'm going to address both of these posts together, because the questions being asked are somewhat similar. @Jim Wilson already answered the first question, and I want to reinforce his answer. Larger cabinet volumes, combined with porting, allows subwoofers to play frequencies below about 35Hz with (much) more SPL than would be the case with comparable sealed subwoofers. Ported subs also produce more low-bass tactile response (TR) than their sealed counterparts, even if the SPL at low-frequencies is comparable.

People who become accustomed to those low-bass tactile sensations may really notice if they lose them in moving to sealed subs. So, for people who already have ported subs, and who like what they do at lower frequencies, it isn't just a matter of comparing SPL between their current subs and prospective sealed subs. Ported subs may produce as much as 2 to 4 times the SPL <30Hz of a comparable sealed model, and much more low-bass TR besides.

I agree that, for the first poster, upgrading to a PB3000 would probably be a good move. (Your PB2000 has much more SPL <30Hz than an SB4000, or even an SB16.) Personally, I would really try to make a PB4000 work. We all (including spouses) tend to become accustomed to larger subwoofers over time, and after a while we just treat them as pieces of furniture. That is particularly the case with subs which have nice finishes, such as the PB4000 in either piano black or black oak.



For the second poster, I would start with at least a PB4000, if I wanted to upgrade, and a PB16 would have even more SPL (and TR) below 35Hz than the PB4000 has. (It has ~3db more SPL below 35Hz, and it is a noticeable difference. Above ~35Hz, the PB 4000 and the PB16 would be equal.) I looked for reviews of your current subs and couldn't find much. A single PB4000 should handily beat those two subs below about 25 or 30Hz. But, I'm not sure about the mid-bass frequencies.

The nice thing about upgrading to a single more powerful sub is that you can always add a second one if you ever decide you need to. I know that's the opposite of downsizing, but most of us with fairly serious HT systems and interests have found that it's nice to be able to have options. And, when it comes to subwoofers, and having sufficient bass for movies, most of us have learned to never say never.

I hope this helps!

Regards,
Mike
Big +1

The dimension's are;
-PB3000 "21.9” (H) 18.3” (W) 26” (D)"
-PB4000 "23.4” (H) 20.5” (W) 30” (D)"
A whole difference of 1.5" (H) 2.?" (W) and 4" (D).

Easily manageable, and disappear very fast


Darth
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post #31252 of 31371 Old 06-21-2019, 04:44 PM
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Quick question - I’m running a single pb12 plus in 20 hz mode in a 2700 cubic foot room that opens up to the kitchen and the rest of the house. My response at current position is very flat right up until 40 hz and then I have a peak that tops out at about 12 do over flat around 50 hz before finally getting back to flat around 80 hz. Obviously I can use Audyssey to get rid of some of this but not all. Based on what people are saying about losing impact I. The kid bass region in 16 hz mode, could this possibly help further flatten the response while giving me power extension?
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post #31253 of 31371 Old 06-21-2019, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradley Smith View Post
Hi Everyone,

I currently have a single PB-2000 in a 21x22 room with an 8 ft ceiling. I am looking to upgrade my subwoofer situation. I can only do a single subwoofer setup in my current room. I have the Ultra Towers and Center. I originally wanted the PB-4000 but after seeing it in person. I am thinking it is just too massive for my space and my wife. LOL. So, I am looking at sealed boxes and do not like the way the PC-4000 looks. Would there be a night and day difference in low bass frequencies output between the PB-2000 vs the SB-4000 or SB16-Ultra? I am looking for that low impact for movies and I haven't seen a discussion on comparing the PB-2000 to the SB-4000 or SB16 Ultra. I was hoping the size/power difference would compensate for a non-ported design.
Your room is on big side, I would start with one PB4000. Then a second one when budget allow to do so. For the size, I got a solution for you. Look at my response to Jim Wilson

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Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post
Your room is about 3700 ft^3, so a pretty good size. Given that you want "low impact for movies" ported is really your best option. A pair of SB-4000's or SB16-Ultra's would likely get you there, but I don't think a single would. Like certain other things, size matters with subwoofers; big space = big subs. Physics will not be denied I'm afraid.

If the PB-4000 is too large what about the PB-3000? That thing has some kick. This isn't a concrete basement by chance, is it? If so, you're going to need a lot more than a single ported subwoofer to get the sensations you're after.
Agree, dual PB4000 would be the best in my opinion. For the WAF about the size, my solution would be. Due to my Evil nature, with my user name.
You first buy a use PB12Plus/2 first, since it is a very old model. And should be able to get one on the very cheap side. This sub is very big, the wife will go . Then you unpack your PB4000 and put-it beside it. The other half will tell you, "much better" and walk away with a smile Problem solve, you got your first PB4000.


Darth
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Last edited by darthray; 06-21-2019 at 06:45 PM.
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post #31254 of 31371 Old 06-21-2019, 08:05 PM
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Your room is on big side, I would start with one PB4000. Then a second one when budget allow to do so. For the size, I got a solution for you. Look at my response to Jim Wilson

Agree, dual PB4000 would be the best in my opinion. For the WAF about the size, my solution would be. Due to my Evil nature, with my user name.
You first buy a use PB12Plus/2 first, since it is a very old model. And should be able to get one on the very cheap side. This sub is very big, the wife will go . Then you unpack your PB4000 and put-it beside it. The other half will tell you, "much better" and walk away with a smile Problem solve, you got your first PB4000.
So perhaps we should call you "evilray" instead?
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post #31255 of 31371 Old 06-22-2019, 07:25 PM
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So perhaps we should call you "evilray" instead?
Who me


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post #31256 of 31371 Old 06-22-2019, 07:56 PM
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I might be stepping into the world of SVS next week. I trying to convince myself to get the PB1000 over the SB1000. This will be primarily used for movies and some TV viewing. I'm not sure if I'm ready for a "big" sub in the house. I'm used to having an older Sony sub and now a used Paradigm that I got from a flea market last year. I guess I'm ready to step up to the big leagues now. Wish me luck..

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post #31257 of 31371 Old 06-22-2019, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by buckeye1966 View Post
I might be stepping into the world of SVS next week. I trying to convince myself to get the PB1000 over the SB1000. This will be primarily used for movies and some TV viewing. I'm not sure if I'm ready for a "big" sub in the house. I'm used to having an older Sony sub and now a used Paradigm that I got from a flea market last year. I guess I'm ready to step up to the big leagues now. Wish me luck..
Coming from someone who has PB1000 and SB2000, I would strongly recommend the PB1000 over the SB1000 if you are using it for movies and TV viewing.
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post #31258 of 31371 Old 06-23-2019, 07:34 AM
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Coming from someone who has PB1000 and SB2000, I would strongly recommend the PB1000 over the SB1000 if you are using it for movies and TV viewing.
Would you consider the PB1000 to be a "larger sub"? And I'm not talking about the dimensions I'm talking about overall size in general. I can see the dimensions on the web site but need to know if the size will be overkill for my smaller room before I make the order. I have some room for it but I don't want a large sub in small area, that would look kinda out of place. If I'm going to get this I'll place my order Monday sometime.
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post #31259 of 31371 Old 06-23-2019, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by buckeye1966 View Post
Would you consider the PB1000 to be a "larger sub"? And I'm not talking about the dimensions I'm talking about overall size in general. I can see the dimensions on the web site but need to know if the size will be overkill for my smaller room before I make the order. I have some room for it but I don't want a large sub in small area, that would look kinda out of place. If I'm going to get this I'll place my order Monday sometime.

It's kinda big for smaller rooms. But you should definitively try it since movies is your primarily viewing.
Keep it for few days. If you don't get used to the size then...

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post #31260 of 31371 Old 06-23-2019, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckeye1966 View Post
Would you consider the PB1000 to be a "larger sub"? And I'm not talking about the dimensions I'm talking about overall size in general. I can see the dimensions on the web site but need to know if the size will be overkill for my smaller room before I make the order. I have some room for it but I don't want a large sub in small area, that would look kinda out of place. If I'm going to get this I'll place my order Monday sometime.

Hi,

I guess a lot depends on our own perceptions and expectations. To the owner of a Mini Cooper, a mid-size Toyota might seem like a very large car. To put "larger" in perspective, the PB1000 is the smallest ported subwoofer that SVS makes. Above that, in order of size, are the PB2000, the PB3000, the PB4000, and the PB16. And, even the largest SVS sub, the PB16, is not large compared to some of the subwoofers which people put in their home theaters or mixed-use rooms.

Most of us who are starting to get serious about subwoofers probably tend to be a little too concerned initially about whether subwoofers will be too big. Over time, most of us begin to understand the essential correlation between subwoofer size and bass performance, and we may move to even bigger models than the ones we started with. That is a pretty common pattern.

All of this is to say that from most owners' perspectives, the PB1000 will not be too big for even a 10' by 10' by 8' (800^3) room. But, your perspective is the only one that really counts, and you will need to try one to find out. If I were you, I wouldn't hesitate at all to buy a PB1000. And, don't be surprised if you find yourself wanting to go even bigger after a while. That's where the free-trial period, and SVS's upgrade program, will be helpful for you.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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