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post #32161 of 33274 Old 12-31-2019, 07:40 AM
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Hey folks, I really want a second PB-1000 from the Outlet store. So why don't some of you upgrade to 2000 and send your current 1000 back so I can get it once they spiffy it up. Thanks in advance!

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post #32162 of 33274 Old 12-31-2019, 07:41 AM
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Construction of PC-4000 cylinder

Thinking my Xmas present to myself needs to be the PC-4000, and surprised at the reduced cost and weight compared to the PB-4000 which afaict has the same componentry. This cross-section of the PC-2000 shows that the cylinder appears to be wood covered with cloth. I should probably have known that MDF, being pressed wood fibers, could be fashioned into a perfectly round cylinder but I hafta wonder: is anything compromised by a thinner-walled construction of the PC-4000 over the PB? No doubt the PB, having to support the very heavy driver/motor needs to be thick and stiff and strong, but maybe because the PC has gravity working FOR not AGAINST the heavy driver means the thinner wall of the cylinder is a "don't care" to sound or long-term quality?

Any/all opinions welcome.
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post #32163 of 33274 Old 12-31-2019, 08:00 AM
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I got a couple of questions.



I bought a SVS PB12 sub that I got around 2005 Its got the 1000 watt bash amp in it. The amp was DOA on shipment so they sent me a new one that didn't have the model number on it and I don't remember exactly which one I bought. Is there any way to identify what I actually have now?



Anyway, I have been in a new house for a while in a smaller room than I was originally (I am around 1800 cubic feet now) on the second floor with a neighbor that is pretty close so I am working on some soundproofing so I can enjoy my room without worrying about bothering the neighbors. This has led me to the conclusion that a front firing sub with those fancy isolation feet might help with vibrations outside the house.


So my questions

1) Would a similar tier SVS sub (or dual down tier subs) any improvements over what I have now?

2) From the perspective of sound passing out of the house could this be a valid improvement?
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post #32164 of 33274 Old 12-31-2019, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by rishrash View Post
I have a PB12-Ultra/2 that I purchased clear back in 2003! It has been a great subwoofer and hasn't given me any problems. It has had relatively low use over the years, sometimes only once a week, sometime less. It has the original 1000w Bash amp in it. Apparently now the amp has failed as I have no power LED and not output. The fuse is good and I don't see any obvious bad components on the amp.

As many have said, SVS no longer has the Bash amps or even the STA-1000 Sledge replacements. The only thing they could offer was a STA-1200 Sledge amp for $600, but the plate size is different, so I'd have to modify the opening. The new plate size is 9" wide x 14" high, so I'd have to enlarge it 1" in width and 2" in height, which I am totally willing to do. They were concerned about the quality of the drivers, given the age and not necessarily the low use.

The question is this, is it worth putting a new $600 amp into my old cabinet? The 2 12" drivers look to be in good condition, as far as I can tell. Or is it time to move on and invest in a new sub with the new dsp amps?

Thanks for any thoughts/opinions.
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Wow that would be amazing! it seems such a waste to just discard the great cabinet and drivers.

Here are some pics of the amp. The face plate measures 8" wide x 12" high.
If Tom has one which powers up - awesome. If he doesn't have one, I would go the external amp route along with a miniDSP 2x4 providing the EQ and HPF for port tuning.

You can install a pair of insulated binding posts on the BASH plate and just connect the woofer spades to them. The dual driver woofer female spades are likely 0.1875" and most of the binding posts listed in the link have 0.250" male spades - so you might need to replace the female spades with slightly larger ones - but that's easy enough.

The woofers are wired in series - so the impedance load won't be difficult for any decent external amp to drive. The DCR of the Ultra/2 woofers in series is about 6-7 ohms (you can confirm this with an ohmmeter). Something like a QSC, Behringer, Crown amp in the 500-1000W range into a 6 ohm load would be fine. I wouldn't throw a ton of power at the woofers considering they are 15 years old with no direct replacements.
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post #32165 of 33274 Old 12-31-2019, 12:35 PM
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I want to share my experience repairing Bash 750W amp for my SVS PB13-Ultra sub. I have spent considerable amount of time so I figured I should share it with community. I promised to share my findings earlier but never got to it. So I figured I better do it before the year ends (Happy New Year!). Note that service manual is not available for this product or any support from SVS. You are on your own and if you search online you will find similar amp failures online. Similarly to SVS other manufactures (i.e. Klipsch) won’t provide any help. As a result most amplifier repair shops won't even touch them. So far I haven't seen any successful Bash amplifier repairs with serious power supply failure. Most common failure is TH1 thermistor that can be easily repaired. You need to source Ametherm Part Number SL15 4R008-03 and replace it even if yours looks OK.
Main board 640047 has 2 pairs of FET transistors on the primary side that are connected to SMPS transformer. These transistors are driven by half bridge driver IR2153 that is located on 640045-1 daughter board. FET transistors can be easily checked with DMM (search youtube on how to check FETs with DMM if you don't know how). If FETs are blown chances are you have several things that fried on the board. Most importantly it would be IR2153. If IR2153 is damaged or any components in between IR2153 and FET swapping FET's alone won't do any good. You will likely end up shorting high voltage to the ground on this board (shoot through). So before you power on you should inspect all components. Chances are your IR2153 is gone.


Schematic for main board 640047:



I had to replace:
Power FET transistors PN: 512FQP17N40
Vishay Zener PN: Power switching diode: 1N5253B-TR
Q8 2N4401
Repair burned trace/traces due to high voltage short.

Schematic for daughter board 660045-1:


I had to replace:
D3, D4 A6T Type BAS SOT23 mouser part# 512-BAS16
Q2, Q4 2T mouser part#: MMBT4403LT1G
IR2153 mouser part#: 942-IR2153DPBF
R4 resistor (1210) 221Ohm. I ordered 220 Ohm mouser part # 667-ERJ-14NF2200U
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post #32166 of 33274 Old 01-02-2020, 09:46 PM
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Hi guys, advice needed. My pb4000 front display seems to be not working correctly. E.g when the volume is displayed I can’t adjust the volume, if I press either the up or down seems to change to another setting instead of adjusting volume. Is there a reset procedure or is it faulty and needs service which I rather not because of it’s weight and size
Advice or tips would be great


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post #32167 of 33274 Old 01-02-2020, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyboy632 View Post
Hi guys, advice needed. My pb4000 front display seems to be not working correctly. E.g when the volume is displayed I can’t adjust the volume, if I press either the up or down seems to change to another setting instead of adjusting volume. Is there a reset procedure or is it faulty and needs service which I rather not because of it’s weight and size
Advice or tips would be great


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If the display says "volume" and up and down brings you to another setting it's working as intended. You need to press right while "volume" is displayed, this will show the gain in dB. Once you start seeing numbers then you can adjust the gain up and down.

If that's not working you can always change it via the SVS app.

SVS can send a replacement display that you can change yourself. I did this when I had similar issues with my pb16, all you need is a screwdriver (takes less than 5 minutes).

There is also a reset option under system settings.
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post #32168 of 33274 Old 01-03-2020, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JudgeSmails View Post
Hey folks, I really want a second PB-1000 from the Outlet store. So why don't some of you upgrade to 2000 and send your current 1000 back so I can get it once they spiffy it up. Thanks in advance!
I was lucky enough to find one in great condition on Craigslist for $150.
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post #32169 of 33274 Old 01-03-2020, 10:51 AM
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Hey folks, I have a PB-1000 that was burnt out some of the components. I can't find any schematics so i don't know the value of the Capacitors that was burnt out. I attached a photo here
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post #32170 of 33274 Old 01-03-2020, 11:03 PM
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Ummm,,, I see lots of burnt foam, and circuit board. Might be bigger then you think.

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post #32171 of 33274 Old 01-03-2020, 11:13 PM
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Umm, looking more closely I see a bit of "oh hell no" and some "not a chance in hell" type of repairs. That board is fried. This is most likely beyond a few "capacitors" and a soldering iron type of fix. Best to call SVS, and then go shopping for a new sub assuming its out of warranty. Something went way wrong me thinks.
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post #32172 of 33274 Old 01-04-2020, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Deaf-Forever View Post
Umm, looking more closely I see a bit of "oh hell no" and some "not a chance in hell" type of repairs. That board is fried. This is most likely beyond a few "capacitors" and a soldering iron type of fix. Best to call SVS, and then go shopping for a new sub assuming its out of warranty. Something went way wrong me thinks.
Yeap! out of warranty! It just stopped working one day. Is this a common problem on these PB-1000 model? anybody have the same problem? is this a design fault?
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post #32173 of 33274 Old 01-04-2020, 08:36 AM
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Well after 4 weeks of not using DEQ on my marantz AVR I was messing yesterday and re engaged it whilst watching Passengers 4k Blu Ray... I’m not not sure if I actually need to upgrade my PC-2000 for an PB-3000 !!.

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post #32174 of 33274 Old 01-04-2020, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mobilext View Post
Yeap! out of warranty! It just stopped working one day. Is this a common problem on these PB-1000 model? anybody have the same problem? is this a design fault?
Why not give SVS an email along with your photos, customer service I’ve found excellent. I’m not saying they will repair it for free but they might be willing to help

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post #32175 of 33274 Old 01-04-2020, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by panman40 View Post
Why not give SVS an email along with your photos, customer service I’ve found excellent. I’m not saying they will repair it for free but they might be willing to help
Does SVS have either a repair facility or provider, or can one purchase replacement components (in this case I guess the amp) from them?
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post #32176 of 33274 Old 01-04-2020, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyboy632 View Post
Hi guys, advice needed. My pb4000 front display seems to be not working correctly. E.g when the volume is displayed I can’t adjust the volume, if I press either the up or down seems to change to another setting instead of adjusting volume. Is there a reset procedure or is it faulty and needs service which I rather not because of it’s weight and size
Advice or tips would be great


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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkEnigma View Post
If the display says "volume" and up and down brings you to another setting it's working as intended. You need to press right while "volume" is displayed, this will show the gain in dB. Once you start seeing numbers then you can adjust the gain up and down.

If that's not working you can always change it via the SVS app.

SVS can send a replacement display that you can change yourself. I did this when I had similar issues with my pb16, all you need is a screwdriver (takes less than 5 minutes).

There is also a reset option under system settings.
Let us know what smart device (if any) you are using with the SVS Subwoofer Control app - and if that allows the volume to be changed as expected.

I have a working theory - but we'll need to confirm to be sure. If the subwoofer display mode is set to Volume, but you are actually in a different part of the menu structure, then toggling up/down will reflect the menu options at that location in the navigation structure. Then after the time-out period it will go back to Volume.

The menu navigation options are shown on page 19 of the owner's manual. Based on what the display is reading when you toggle up/down or left/right - you should be able to figure out pretty quickly where you are in the menu structure. Then you can navigate to Volume if that is what you want to adjust.

While we do include a credit card remote and a front control panel/display - the app is by far the best/easiest way to control the subwoofer and easily navigate to/change all menu settings.
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post #32177 of 33274 Old 01-04-2020, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mobilext View Post
Hey folks, I have a PB-1000 that was burnt out some of the components. I can't find any schematics so i don't know the value of the Capacitors that was burnt out. I attached a photo here
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deaf-Forever View Post
Ummm,,, I see lots of burnt foam, and circuit board. Might be bigger then you think.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deaf-Forever View Post
Umm, looking more closely I see a bit of "oh hell no" and some "not a chance in hell" type of repairs. That board is fried. This is most likely beyond a few "capacitors" and a soldering iron type of fix. Best to call SVS, and then go shopping for a new sub assuming its out of warranty. Something went way wrong me thinks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mobilext View Post
Yeap! out of warranty! It just stopped working one day. Is this a common problem on these PB-1000 model? anybody have the same problem? is this a design fault?
Quote:
Originally Posted by panman40 View Post
Why not give SVS an email along with your photos, customer service I’ve found excellent. I’m not saying they will repair it for free but they might be willing to help
Quote:
Originally Posted by Laserfan View Post
Does SVS have either a repair facility or provider, or can one purchase replacement components (in this case I guess the amp) from them?
Please don't attempt any repairs to the amplifier. Just reach-out to SVS Customer Service and reference this AVS thread and my name. Provide us with your complete contact information (name, email, phone, shipping address, subwoofer SN) and I'll make sure we get a replacement amp shipped out to you. Thanks.
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post #32178 of 33274 Old 01-04-2020, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laserfan View Post
Thinking my Xmas present to myself needs to be the PC-4000, and surprised at the reduced cost and weight compared to the PB-4000 which afaict has the same componentry. This cross-section of the PC-2000 shows that the cylinder appears to be wood covered with cloth. I should probably have known that MDF, being pressed wood fibers, could be fashioned into a perfectly round cylinder but I hafta wonder: is anything compromised by a thinner-walled construction of the PC-4000 over the PB? No doubt the PB, having to support the very heavy driver/motor needs to be thick and stiff and strong, but maybe because the PC has gravity working FOR not AGAINST the heavy driver means the thinner wall of the cylinder is a "don't care" to sound or long-term quality?

Any/all opinions welcome.
The PC tubing is constructed of highly dense/compressed fiber composite material, with an exterior coating for moisture resistance. The tubing construction is similar to Sonotube (or equivalent) but thicker.

Geometrically the tubing is uniformly strong in all directions and doesn't flex under pressure like the flat walls of a conventional MDF cabinet would. We do use a heavy brace for the woofer motor and we also use heavy end-caps for the woofer and port baffles.

But overall, the PC-4000 is considerably lighter than the PB-4000 which uses much thicker/heavier MDF construction for the cabinet.

The PB-4000 does have about 1 ft^3 more internal volume than the PC-4000 - but they do share the same amp, woofer and porting - so their overall performance envelope is far more alike than different and the PC-4000 has a much smaller footprint and fits into locations where the PB-4000 simply can't.
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post #32179 of 33274 Old 01-04-2020, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeekle View Post
I got a couple of questions.



I bought a SVS PB12 sub that I got around 2005 Its got the 1000 watt bash amp in it. The amp was DOA on shipment so they sent me a new one that didn't have the model number on it and I don't remember exactly which one I bought. Is there any way to identify what I actually have now?



Anyway, I have been in a new house for a while in a smaller room than I was originally (I am around 1800 cubic feet now) on the second floor with a neighbor that is pretty close so I am working on some soundproofing so I can enjoy my room without worrying about bothering the neighbors. This has led me to the conclusion that a front firing sub with those fancy isolation feet might help with vibrations outside the house.


So my questions

1) Would a similar tier SVS sub (or dual down tier subs) any improvements over what I have now?

2) From the perspective of sound passing out of the house could this be a valid improvement?
Does your subwoofer have one down-firing woofer, or two down-firing woofers? What is the inside diameter of the ports? If you post some pics of it - we'll be able to tell.

If it really did have a 1000W amp, it could be a dual driver PB12-NSD/2, PB12-Plus/2 or PB12-Ultra/2.

While your current subwoofer will certainly work fine in an 1800 ft^2 room, a smaller SVS can also work equally as well while taking up less floor space and having less visual impact.

If properly level-matched and calibrated, your current subwoofer will not 'overpower' the room. A better way to look at it would be - it likely will have a lot of reserve headroom at your preferred playback level. That's not necessarily a bad thing - but you will need to put-up with its size and footprint.

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post #32180 of 33274 Old 01-04-2020, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
Does your subwoofer have one down-firing woofer, or two down-firing woofers? What is the inside diameter of the ports? If you post some pics of it - we'll be able to tell.

If it really did have a 1000W amp, it could be a dual driver PB12-NSD/2, PB12-Plus/2 or PB12-Ultra/2.

While your current subwoofer will certainly work fine in an 1800 ft^2 room, a smaller SVS can also work equally as well while taking up less floor space and having less visual impact.

If properly level-matched and calibrated, your current subwoofer will not 'overpower' the room. A better way to look at it would be - it likely will have a lot of reserve headroom at your preferred playback level. That's not necessarily a bad thing - but you will need to put-up with its size and footprint.
I believe that it only has one woofer in it. Something that was smaller would give me more options in the room for placement. I currently have it as far away as I can get it from the external wall (I am not attached but the neighbors house is about 12 feet away).

Would a front firing woofer help in floor/wall vibration transfer?

Working on a window plug for the only window in the room which I expect will help a lot with sound leakage.

Thanks for taking a look!
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post #32181 of 33274 Old 01-04-2020, 05:11 PM
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I have plantation shutters all over my house and they rattle like crazy when the bass hits... what can I do about this aside from getting rid of them?
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post #32182 of 33274 Old 01-04-2020, 05:49 PM
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I have plantation shutters all over my house and they rattle like crazy when the bass hits... what can I do about this aside from getting rid of them?
You could try something like the SubDude. It decouples your subwoofer from the floor and minimizes those type of issues.

 
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post #32183 of 33274 Old 01-04-2020, 05:54 PM
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You could try something like the SubDude. It decouples your subwoofer from the floor and minimizes those type of issues.
The subs are sitting on a concrete slab so it's not taking the vibration through the floor I don't think. It's getting the vibration from the sheer amount of bass in the room with my PB12+ and PB13 Ultra
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post #32184 of 33274 Old 01-04-2020, 06:57 PM
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I have plantation shutters all over my house and they rattle like crazy when the bass hits... what can I do about this aside from getting rid of them?
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The subs are sitting on a concrete slab so it's not taking the vibration through the floor I don't think. It's getting the vibration from the sheer amount of bass in the room with my PB12+ and PB13 Ultra

The strong low-frequency TR is actually a good thing. (At least until things in the room, or house, start to rattle.) A lot of people don't believe that it's possible to get really strong ULF TR (Ultra low-frequency tactile response) on concrete, but as you have demonstrated, it is very possible.

You can try to discover where the rattles are originating--for instance are the shutters rattling from contact with the wall, or from contact with each other, where they touch? Depending on what you find out, you could try using some soft adhesive tabs to treat the worst points of contact. It's possible that could help to minimize the loudest of the rattles. Where this type of thing is occurring, it's nearly always necessary to treat the rattles at the source of the rattle.

If that doesn't work, it may come down to a choice of which is more important to you, the plantation shutters, or the ULF TR? You could certainly knock down your low-bass, in several different ways, but that is a choice I would hate to have to make.

Regards,
Mike
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Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #32185 of 33274 Old 01-04-2020, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by enkrypt3d View Post
The subs are sitting on a concrete slab so it's not taking the vibration through the floor I don't think. It's getting the vibration from the sheer amount of bass in the room with my PB12+ and PB13 Ultra
Concrete sucks the life out of a subwoofer so you're correct, a SubDude wouldn't help.

 
If you take yourself too seriously expect me to do the exact opposite.

BTW, did you really need to quote the entire post?
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post #32186 of 33274 Old 01-04-2020, 07:53 PM
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Concrete sucks the life out of a subwoofer so you're correct, a SubDude wouldn't help.
yes it does. In my last house the bass was so much better with a basement below the living room... what can I do to make it better?
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post #32187 of 33274 Old 01-04-2020, 08:10 PM
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yes it does. In my last house the bass was so much better with a basement below the living room... what can I do to make it better?
Typically lot's of horsepower (amp wattage) and drivers. Some people go the bass shaker route, like the ButtKicker for example, but I'm not a fan of those.

 
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post #32188 of 33274 Old 01-05-2020, 02:12 AM
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I wonder if the PC-2000 pro’s Amp plate would fit the original PC-2000 ?. Might be a useful upgrade to have the app etc.

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post #32189 of 33274 Old 01-05-2020, 06:30 AM
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I believe that it only has one woofer in it. Something that was smaller would give me more options in the room for placement. I currently have it as far away as I can get it from the external wall (I am not attached but the neighbors house is about 12 feet away).

Would a front firing woofer help in floor/wall vibration transfer?

Working on a window plug for the only window in the room which I expect will help a lot with sound leakage.

Thanks for taking a look!
If it has one woofer it has a 525W BASH amp and triple 3" ports.

Yes, a front-firing woofer will impart less mechanical energy to the flooring system than will a down-firing woofer. This is assuming it's a suspended wooden floor over an open space (or even a suspended concrete floor over an open space - like a hotel). If the flooring system is a concrete slab on earth then it won't transmit any significant energy in the subwoofer bandwidth.

You can add the SoundPath Subwoofer Isolation System with (or without) the base plate - if you want to try that first.

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post #32190 of 33274 Old 01-05-2020, 08:10 AM
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i have a SB-2000 and the RCA cable connecting it is stiff. I have tried to soften it up but it is still stiff. Within the first year the cable caused the connecter on the subwoofer to move and causes the sub to generate noise. I got a new amp board and replaced it. But now my bunny got behind it and triggered it again. While it is not broken are the connectors dare I say "weak" or is my cable too stiff? I don't want to send it back again if it will happen again but anyone else experience issues with the connectors?

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