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post #32281 of 32523 Old 01-20-2020, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by residentsystems View Post
Ok I’ve decided to move my second pb 1000 into the TV room and I’ll go with one in each front corner.

For the family room I’m going to go with the PC 2000 Pro.

I’m debating returning the PB 1000s since budget isn’t really a concern. But I really like the dimensions and think two will give me plenty of bass. I don’t think I could fit anything bigger up front. I could move a sub to the back wall if need but I like symmetry.

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Always open to other opinions. Thanks.
Have you considered dual PC-2000s for your TV room? They take up less floor space than the PB1000.

My dual PB1000s weren't enough (for me) in my open loft so I purchased the PB12-NSDs. Since your TV room is open to the rest of the house, you're likely to feel the same.
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post #32282 of 32523 Old 01-21-2020, 06:48 AM
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Sometimes we see RCA cables with a very tight grip on the ground shield - it's like the 'turbine death grip'. If the cable ground shield has any type of slits or slots - they can generally be opened up very gently/carefully with a pair of needle nose pliers for a slightly looser fit. That usually solves the problem. A more flexible cable can also help - but that usually isn't the main issue with RCA jacks pulling out or getting loose/noisy.
I contacted your CS and they were skeptical but helped me get a replacement. Thanks for the awesome CS your company always gives. I did get a more flexible cable and I am confident this cable will not lead to the same issue the old one did.

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post #32283 of 32523 Old 01-21-2020, 06:55 AM
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Do people adjust room-gain and PEQ with Rew before the use Dirac normally?

Just bought my PB-16 and tried room-gain before Dirac, but wonder if I should bother with a couple of dips with PEQ and rerun Dirac?
Always run set-up first and then assess the results - preferably independently with REW and a UMIK-1. If there is anything remaining that auto-set-up didn't address, then you can layer on a PEQ.

Don't try to correct narrow peaks - look for broad trends in the FR (like 1/3 octave wide or wider).

The biggest challenge is to find a spot where there are no deep nulls. No correction system can fully compensate for them and when this is attempted the EQ boost is rather heavy-handed and results in excessive energy dumped into the room, which will manifest itself as peaks in other locations and also longer ring/decay times.

Once you find a spot without major standing wave issues - you are handing auto-set-up a much easier task which will result in more moderate EQ filters.

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post #32284 of 32523 Old 01-21-2020, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Kiler View Post
I contacted your CS and they were skeptical but helped me get a replacement. Thanks for the awesome CS your company always gives. I did get a more flexible cable and I am confident this cable will not lead to the same issue the old one did.
Excellent - happy to help and if you need anything else, don't hesitate to reach out to our CS team.

Ed Mullen
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SVS

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post #32285 of 32523 Old 01-21-2020, 10:41 AM
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I would suggest that you contact SVS and specifically inquire about the protection circuit, I can hit 10 Hz flat in my room with the PC2000 with room gain after calibration. If the new PC2000Pro has a protection circuit similar or the same as the 3000 and 4000 series I would doubt that I could do that as the PC4000 in my room is flat to around 17 Hz. Of course the PC4000 has more output an SPL. Also, can you buy a PC2000 now? I would imagine you would have to wait for one to show up in the outlet.
Thanks for the response. So you think getting rid of the pb12 +2 and getting a pc2000 is the way to go?
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post #32286 of 32523 Old 01-21-2020, 04:39 PM
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Have you considered dual PC-2000s for your TV room? They take up less floor space than the PB1000.



My dual PB1000s weren't enough (for me) in my open loft so I purchased the PB12-NSDs. Since your TV room is open to the rest of the house, you're likely to feel the same.


I ordered a PC 2000 Pro and if I like the two PB 1000s in the TV room and the PC 2000 Pro in the family room we will go with that. The PB 1000s can still be returned to Crutchfield so if I may send those back and get another PC 2000 to replace them.

Should be here this week to start some comparisons.
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post #32287 of 32523 Old 01-21-2020, 05:52 PM
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After much reading and asking advice on here, today I ordered two SVS sb3000 subs for my open floor plan living area. I am hoping I do not regret going sealed rather than ported. My wife is not a fan of loud booming bass sounds in HT and I prefer my system to be geared to music so I believe I made the right decision. I cannot wait to get them installed!

JBL Studio 590's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk TSI 500's, 2 SVS SB 3000's and a Sony 65" 850
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post #32288 of 32523 Old 01-21-2020, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mdildine View Post
After much reading and asking advice on here, today I ordered two SVS sb3000 subs for my open floor plan living area. I am hoping I do not regret going sealed rather than ported. My wife is not a fan of loud booming bass sounds in HT and I prefer my system to be geared to music so I believe I made the right decision. I cannot wait to get them installed!
Sub location ideas please. I do not have a dedicated room for music or HT. I have a large open living area, 24 x 31x8 all open except a partial center wall of 12' that is behind to the left of the MLP. This wall separates the kitchen area from the open area behind the MLP sectional. The MLP sits around 12' from the front speakers. I use my system for both music, tv and, movies however my main interest is music. I now have JBL 590's for fronts, a Klipsch RP-450 center, Polk tsi200's surrounds and had two Polk PSW505 as subs, now replaced by the Svs sb3000's. The TV is on a tiled wall that extends 17" from the front wall and is 7' wide. The center channel sits below the TV along with the electronics. Prior to this past weekend there were cabinets on either side of the TV wall that sat roughly 18" off the ground and it was under these that the subs were. I have since moved those cabinets out further and I have now moved the JBL 590's adjacent to the center tiled wall so they sit roughly 8' apart. Before I upgraded to the JBL's I had smaller Polk TSI500's up front and had them spread further out with 2 Polk PSW 505 subs between the speakers and the center tiled wall. With the cabinets moved that leaves me only a few locations for the dual SVS sb3000's that are on the way. I have looked at SVS's advice for dual sub placement and none of the desired locations are really doable with my set up. I can keep them up front on the outside of the JBL's with the front right sub being corner loaded while the front left would be roughly 7' from that side wall and could not be moved closer to the wall due to two doors in that location. I could put them next to each other about halfway down the right side wall close to the sectional and therefore close to the mlp. I could put the right front one in the corner and the other behind and to the left of the mlp on the wall that divides the kitchen from the open area. I did get the wireless adapters rom SVS so moving the subs around will not be difficult as far as wiring goes. I attached pics, sorry for the messy room
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JBL Studio 590's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk TSI 500's, 2 SVS SB 3000's and a Sony 65" 850
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post #32289 of 32523 Old 01-21-2020, 08:48 PM
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Which do you like acoustically and aesthetically the subs inside the towers or outside?





Thanks
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post #32290 of 32523 Old 01-22-2020, 07:48 AM
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^^^
Subs out (distal to) TV.
I would pull the towers out more also.

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post #32291 of 32523 Old 01-22-2020, 08:05 AM
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^^^
Subs out (distal to) TV.
I would pull the towers out more also.
I would agree, additionally I would experiment with putting the center speaker on top of the cabinet and letting the front overhang it about half an inch. It made a remarkable difference in opening the soundstage.
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post #32292 of 32523 Old 01-22-2020, 08:49 AM
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Regards,
Mike
Hi mike ,

I kinda entered this thread looking for you hehe and for my luck you wrote the last comment 🙂

I really have a delima here and hope you could help since I really appreciate your knowledge and experience...

My ht is the following:
Room size 1700 cu f
Klipsch 150M
450C
160M
Pb1000
Denon 4500 upgraded from v685 and really helped with the surround and yesterday I had a very goood experience at low volume which I did not enjoy with the yamaha .

I want to upgrade my subwoofer experience since I don't feel it in my chest and don't feel any shaking or crazy moment with certain scenes, and I can have some in certain subwoofer position when I also raise the sub knob more than a little bit it but it start to pressure my ears and causing discomfort, I wanted to order the mic to use Rew but put ot on hold when I knew that might not help and might need to buy a dsp .

Right now I really want to upgrade to somthing better, I like the pb1000 but I always wondered what better subwoofer will give me and that's why I don't like the idea of getting another pb1000 so my options now is the following:

1- Pb3000 (can't add second on the near future
2- Pb2000 pro
It is possible to go for dual pb2000 pro either right away or later on if not satisfied but dual would cost me more than single pb3000 by more than 700 usd coz of shipping and price difference.

And ofcourse I have the option to try my pb1000 with any option I go with .

I liked the pb3000 users impressions and reviews alot especially the kick it has and don't know what pb2000 pro would offer since I can't find any decent review , I looked for reviews which said that dual will offer same output at mid frequency and and more at lower ones.

And I am also wondering if any of above choices will preform better at low volume than another .

Would really appreciate your help and input.

Thanx
Hi,
new to the forum here, just wanted to mention that i just got my 2nd pb 2000 pro and i could not be more pleased! I started with one (adding to my dual klipsch r120 sw) to add more to the lower end/ seat rattling movie scenes, and while the one sub did substantially add to my room, i felt it was a little unbalanced with the 2 klipsch subs up front and the svs in the rear corner. Just added the second pb 2000 pro and am amazed. You will not be disappointed if you choose to go this route!

My system:
Marantz SR 6013
Klipsch R 28F fronts
klipsch RP450c center
Klipsch RP402s surrounds
Klipsch RP 140 sa rear height
Klipsch CDT 2650 C II ceilings
Klipsch R120 sw dual front subs
SVS PB 2000 Pro dual rear subs
adding a 2ch amp amd some rear surrounds soon!
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post #32293 of 32523 Old 01-22-2020, 09:48 AM
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I would agree, additionally I would experiment with putting the center speaker on top of the cabinet and letting the front overhang it about half an inch. It made a remarkable difference in opening the soundstage.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_WI View Post
^^^

Subs out (distal to) TV.

I would pull the towers out more also.


Thanks to you both. Honestly it’s getting a little busy up front so may move one of the subs to the back corner or depending on how much I like the PC 2000 arriving today I may just put that on the left. And return these. The PC 2000 is for another room.
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post #32294 of 32523 Old 01-22-2020, 10:08 AM
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Thanks to you both. Honestly it’s getting a little busy up front so may move one of the subs to the back corner or depending on how much I like the PC 2000 arriving today I may just put that on the left. And return these. The PC 2000 is for another room.

Hi,

I have a feeling that you will enjoy the PC2000 (probably dual PC2000's) more than the PB1000's in that room, for reasons that transcend over-crowding on the front soundstage. The 2000's will go lower in frequency than the 1000's can, and I think that you will enjoy having that lower-frequency extension for your primary HT. The low-frequencies in movies add a lot to the experience.

With respect to the front soundstage, part of what you are trying to avoid is early reflections from your speakers. If a subwoofer, or a cabinet, or a side or front wall is very close to a speaker, it can cause more mid and high-frequency distortion than we may realize. Moving the front speakers out a bit, and toeing them in a bit toward your main listening position may result in more clarity and better overall sound quality.

The same thing applies to the center channel. If the center channel is up higher and pointed more directly at ear level (using a shim if necessary), clarity and especially dialogue intelligibility should improve. And, getting the center channel out of a cabinet, with back and side walls, and slightly overlapping the shelf it sits on, will also help to prevent distortion from those surfaces.

I would be very surprised if doing those things didn't immediately improve your overall sound quality, irrespective of whatever you are doing with your subwoofers. Don't forget to rerun Audyssey, or whatever auto-calibration routine you have, after you move speakers or subs.

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #32295 of 32523 Old 01-22-2020, 12:15 PM
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Selling dual PB-2000's for $1,100 and got an offer for $800. Both subs are 2 years old with 3 years left on the warranty. Should I take the money and run?
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post #32296 of 32523 Old 01-22-2020, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by residentsystems View Post
Which do you like acoustically and aesthetically the subs inside the towers or outside?





Thanks
Thanks for posting these pictures! I too have to decide whether to put the subs inside or outside of the towers. I am also trying to decide between PB-4000s and SB16-Ultras. Visually, I think towers on the outside looks best, but that sacrifices corner placement room gain. How far are you from each tower? If you are 10 feet, then the best positioning for the towers would be 10 feet apart (equilateral triangle). How far apart are the towers when they are inside the subs vs. outside? Like Mike said, the speakers should be pulled out to minimize reflections on adjacent surfaces.

After looking at your room and thinking about it, I am now leaning towards a 3-wide Salamander AV cabinet (65" vs. 85" with a 4-wide) and dual SB16-Ultras inside the towers. I think this will look the best and sound the best for my towers. If I were putting the subs on the outside, I would have to get the 85" Salamander to avoid a big empty space between the towers and cabinet and my towers would be no more than 8.5' apart. With the 65" cabinet flanked by the subs, I'll be able to spread my towers 9-12 feet, depending on how I space things out and how far my couch ends up being from the TV (rather than moving my subs around, I can move my couch forward or backward if there's a bass null). This is going in my living room, not a home theater, so I should err in favor of aesthetics. Maybe when I retire I can build a dedicated home theater with dual or quad PB16-Ultras (or whatever is the latest and greatest at the time) for movies.
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post #32297 of 32523 Old 01-22-2020, 12:55 PM
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Thanks for posting these pictures! I too have to decide whether to put the subs inside or outside of the towers. I am also trying to decide between PB-4000s and SB16-Ultras. Visually, I think towers on the outside looks best, but that sacrifices corner placement room gain. How far are you from each tower? If you are 10 feet, then the best positioning for the towers would be 10 feet apart (equilateral triangle). How far apart are the towers when they are inside the subs vs. outside? Like Mike said, the speakers should be pulled out to minimize reflections on adjacent surfaces.



After looking at your room and thinking about it, I am now leaning towards a 3-wide Salamander AV cabinet (65" vs. 85" with a 4-wide) and dual SB16-Ultras inside the towers. I think this will look the best and sound the best for my towers. If I were putting the subs on the outside, I would have to get the 85" Salamander to avoid a big empty space between the towers and cabinet and my towers would be no more than 8.5' apart. With the 65" cabinet flanked by the subs, I'll be able to spread my towers 9-12 feet, depending on how I space things out and how far my couch ends up being from the TV (rather than moving my subs around, I can move my couch forward or backward if there's a bass null). This is going in my living room, not a home theater, so I should err in favor of aesthetics. Maybe when I retire I can build a dedicated home theater with dual or quad PB16-Ultras (or whatever is the latest and greatest at the time) for movies.


Thanks for the comments. Much appreciated.

We call this the TV room as we have a family room for more hanging out. This is for TV and movie watching but I wouldn’t call it a home theatre room.

The room is 19 feet long by 14 feet wide with 9ft ceilings.

The cabinet is an 82” media cabinet from Standout Designs. It’s awesome and I wanted it wide but it does take up a lot of space. But get is needed to be big too keep the TV looking appropriate.

I will pull the speakers out a bit. I agree aesthetically I like the speakers on the outside. I have a PC 2000 Pro coming tonight for the family room, the other room. I think I’m going to try it out here first and if I like it I’ll get return the PB 1000s and get another PC 2000. It’s will just cost me return shipping.
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post #32298 of 32523 Old 01-22-2020, 01:09 PM
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Thanks for the comments. Much appreciated.

We call this the TV room as we have a family room for more hanging out. This is for TV and movie watching but I wouldn’t call it a home theatre room.

The room is 19 feet long by 14 feet wide with 9ft ceilings.

The cabinet is an 82” media cabinet from Standout Designs. It’s awesome and I wanted it wide but it does take up a lot of space. But get is needed to be big too keep the TV looking appropriate.

I will pull the speakers out a bit. I agree aesthetically I like the speakers on the outside. I have a PC 2000 Pro coming tonight for the family room, the other room. I think I’m going to try it out here first and if I like it I’ll get return the PB 1000s and get another PC 2000. It’s will just cost me return shipping.
Only issue I see with the speakers on the outside of the subs is that the front right speaker is really close to the wall/window and may cause some too early first reflections and mess with the sound stage some. Up to your ears though.
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post #32299 of 32523 Old 01-22-2020, 02:24 PM
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Interesting that the sub inside/outside discussion came up on this thread. I have always had my subs outside on my setup. Just yesterday I switched to having my towers on the outside.

My towers don't seem to be coupling well though. I lost almost exactly 6db above 70hz even though the FR is exactly the same.

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post #32300 of 32523 Old 01-22-2020, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by steinbes View Post

Hi,
new to the forum here, just wanted to mention that i just got my 2nd pb 2000 pro and i could not be more pleased! I started with one (adding to my dual klipsch r120 sw) to add more to the lower end/ seat rattling movie scenes, and while the one sub did substantially add to my room, i felt it was a little unbalanced with the 2 klipsch subs up front and the svs in the rear corner. Just added the second pb 2000 pro and am amazed. You will not be disappointed if you choose to go this route!

My system:
Marantz SR 6013
Klipsch R 28F fronts
klipsch RP450c center
Klipsch RP402s surrounds
Klipsch RP 140 sa rear height
Klipsch CDT 2650 C II ceilings
Klipsch R120 sw dual front subs
SVS PB 2000 Pro dual rear subs
adding a 2ch amp amd some rear surrounds soon!
Thank you for sharing your experience and what a nice setup you have there I hope you enjoy it .
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post #32301 of 32523 Old 01-22-2020, 02:49 PM
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Interesting that the sub inside/outside discussion came up on this thread. I have always had my subs outside on my setup. Just yesterday I switched to having my towers on the outside.

My towers don't seem to be coupling well though. I lost almost exactly 6db above 70hz even though the FR is exactly the same.

That's interesting! When you moved the speakers, did they get further away from a boundary wall, either behind or beside them? I would have expected the speakers to have moved closer to side walls if they moved outside the subs. Of course, the cabinets of the PB16's would also work as boundary walls, for the purposes of boundary reinforcement for the woofers in your towers, so perhaps the towers moved further away from the PB16's.

In any event, what was happening before probably didn't involve your towers mutually-coupling at their previous position. As I understand it, bass transducers (either speakers or subwoofers) can mutually-couple at frequencies where they are within 1/4 wavelength of each other. A 70Hz wavelength is approximately 16' long, so in order to mutually couple at 70Hz (and above), two transducers would have to be within 4' of each other. And, as you correctly assumed, that would add +6dB to their combined response.

Of course, that general principle doesn't actually work quite as well with speakers, as it does with subwoofers, since speakers are EQed separately. There wouldn't be an easy way to anticipate the extent of any mutual-coupling with speakers, as there would be with subwoofers which are EQed together. That might depend a bit on the type of room EQ being used, though.

In any case, I doubt that the towers were nearly close enough together to reinforce each other at 70Hz. My guess is that the boundary reinforcement for those speakers changed, if you lost -6dB at 70Hz, when you moved them. Perhaps there is another explanation that we are missing. Room modes for those speakers might have exerted an influence on their volume at that specific frequency. I assume that you reran room EQ after moving things around?

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

Last edited by mthomas47; 01-22-2020 at 02:59 PM.
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post #32302 of 32523 Old 01-22-2020, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by residentsystems View Post

The cabinet is an 82” media cabinet from Standout Designs. It’s awesome and I wanted it wide but it does take up a lot of space. But get is needed to be big too keep the TV looking appropriate.
That's what my dad bought! He also got tall bookcases on each side of the cabinet, but I don't think they sell them any more. His GoldenEar Triton 2's with built in subs are on each side of the bookcases. He did not get standalone subs.
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post #32303 of 32523 Old 01-22-2020, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
That's interesting! When you moved the speakers, did they get further away from a boundary wall, either behind or beside them? I would have expected the speakers to have moved closer to side walls if they moved outside the subs. Of course, the cabinets of the PB16's would also work as boundary walls, for the purposes of boundary reinforcement for the woofers in your towers, so perhaps the towers moved further away from the PB16's.

In any event, what was happening before probably didn't involve your towers mutually-coupling at their previous position. As I understand it, bass transducers (either speakers or subwoofers) can mutually-couple at frequencies where they are within 1/4 wavelength of each other. A 70Hz wavelength is approximately 16' long, so in order to mutually couple at 70Hz (and above), two transducers would have to be within 4' of each other. And, as you correctly assumed, that would add +6dB to their combined response.

Of course, that general principle doesn't actually work quite as well with speakers, as it does with subwoofers, since speakers are EQed separately. There wouldn't be an easy way to anticipate the extent of any mutual-coupling with speakers, as there would be with subwoofers which are EQed together. That might depend a bit on the type of room EQ being used, though.

In any case, I doubt that the towers were nearly close enough together to reinforce each other at 70Hz. My guess is that the boundary reinforcement for those speakers changed, if you lost -6dB at 70Hz, when you moved them. Perhaps there is another explanation that we are missing. Room modes for those speakers might have exerted an influence on their volume at that specific frequency. I assume that you reran room EQ after moving things around?

Regards,
Mike
Everything you've said is what I was suspecting as well. The speakers were very close, probably 4.5' apart as I had them set up right next to my 55" which is 4 feet long. Like the comments above I more or less did that because it looked better. Now, both speakers are about 10' from a wall (I'm almost in the middle of the room, thankfully my FR is ok!).

I changed the locations and ran YPAO, which has given fairly consistent results in my room. The only difference in EQ that I noticed was a 1dB boost at 78Hz with a Q of 1.260 on the towers. After YPAO I took a measurement to ensure my FR wasn't messed up. On first glance it looked the same. It wasn't until I overlaid my old measurement that I noticed the loss in SPL.

With the subs on the outside one set of the 8" woofers were firing toward each other (and I assume coupling ~4.5' apart) and the other set was firing toward the PB16 cabinets about 2' away perhaps giving a boundary effect.

I had some time to mess around with it today, and boosted the 1dB PEQ at 78Hz to 5dB. I also changed the subwoofer level to -7 (it usually sets -6.5, but this time it was set to -8). Now the REW graphs are overlapping about as well as I could hope . So it seems like nothing noticeable was lost in the shape of my FR but somehow I lost some SPL around/after my crossover.

I felt the sound stage was too narrow for movies in my previous position but was a bit hesitant to move anything because I didn't want to mess up my FR for music.
I'm hoping I can get in a serious music/movie listening session tomorrow so I can evaluate the change properly.
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post #32304 of 32523 Old 01-22-2020, 05:29 PM
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Which do you like acoustically and aesthetically the subs inside the towers or outside?





Thanks
Subs wise, subs are all about locations, but since it look like your concern about aesthetic. The one that sound better to you.

Other than that, you should move your towers a little bit forward. Just enough for them to pass the front edge of your cabinet and subs, to remove any reflections problem. This way, your towers will sound better. The same apply to the center speaker, brought forward to pass the edge of the shelf.

That said, your tower have big open space on the left side and a wall next to the right one. So if I were you, I would also toe them in a little to reduce the reflections from the right wall.


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post #32305 of 32523 Old 01-22-2020, 09:34 PM
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So this is where I’ve landed for the moment. I’ll rerun Audessy this weekend but so far I am very impressed by the PC 2000 Pro. Can’t wait to play with it a bit more.

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post #32306 of 32523 Old 01-23-2020, 03:56 AM
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So this is where I’️ve landed for the moment. I’️ll rerun Audessy this weekend but so far I am very impressed by the PC 2000 Pro. Can’️t wait to play with it a bit more.


I think you could pull all your system out couple on inches which mean the tv stand included so would still look nice aesthetically and achieve what the guys advised you to do .

And I would like to know which you liked more dual pb1000 or the one pc2000 pro ?

Enjoy it .
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post #32307 of 32523 Old 01-23-2020, 10:09 AM
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I think you could pull all your system out couple on inches which mean the tv stand included so would still look nice aesthetically and achieve what the guys advised you to do .

And I would like to know which you liked more dual pb1000 or the one pc2000 pro ?

Enjoy it .


At this time I’m going to keep the PB 1000s as I think they will fit the other room better. The PC 2000 Pro was for the family room but I think it will stay in TV room. It’s a beast both in terms of sound and size. It’s very tall so it won’t work for every room.

More thoughts to come on the performance after tuning this weekend.
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post #32308 of 32523 Old 01-23-2020, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by residentsystems View Post
At this time I’m going to keep the PB 1000s as I think they will fit the other room better. The PC 2000 Pro was for the family room but I think it will stay in TV room. It’s a beast both in terms of sound and size. It’s very tall so it won’t work for every room.

More thoughts to come on the performance after tuning this weekend.

Hi,

I like your new arrangement, and I'm very glad that you are already enjoying the 2000 Pro!

May I make two more small suggestions, before you rerun Audyssey this weekend?

First, point your front speakers inward just a little bit, toward your listening position. Right now, you are just catching the outside edge of the sound waves coming from the mid-range driver and the tweeter, if you are sitting in the center of the room width.

Pointing the speakers inward a little bit will help to give you better sound to start with, and it will also help with your Audyssey calibration. If you pull the speakers just a little further forward (just a few inches) that will also help to avoid reflections from the sides of the TV cabinet.

Second, if you will try moving the center channel to the top of the cabinet, I am certain that you will prefer the sound! Right now, that speaker is well below your ear level, and being inside a cabinet will degrade the sound quality rather than improve it. If you move the speaker to the top of the cabinet, and point it upward slightly toward your ears, it will make a considerable difference with respect to your sound quality, and especially with respect to dialogue in movies.

Just to emphasize these points, the Audyssey microphone doesn't hear sounds the same way that our ears do. If speakers aren't pointed where they should be, Audyssey can actually make the sound worse, as it boosts some frequencies that really wouldn't need boosting if we had just pointed the speakers better to start with. Those unnecessary boosts can add to the distortion (lack of clarity) that we hear.

I hope this helps!

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
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Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #32309 of 32523 Old 01-23-2020, 11:28 AM
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New SB-3000 owner here.... just lurking (didn't want to be completely invisible) and learning!


And, and something learned in the 'speakers' forum, don't overlook angling a center channel speaker slightly upward (to the trig and figure out the angle); the recommended implement is "rubber" door stop wedges.



Ed
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post #32310 of 32523 Old 01-23-2020, 01:02 PM
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Corner placement will excite all room modes. If you move the subwoofers sufficiently far inward, you can create the potential for a standing wave to occur between the subs and the side walls.

There will be a front/rear standing wave null - which will typically be far more problematic than the side-to-side axial standing wave.

Best to get REW and a UMIK-1 and measure the FR with the subs corner loaded and then in-board and see which one measures better.

Neither placement option will correct the front/rear standing wave null - so if you see that at the MLP - then I would advise moving the MLP forward/rearward and re-measuring, or trying opposite diagonal corners with phasing driven by REW.
After going over placement options, it looks as though I will only have 1 placement option for the dual SB-3000 subs and that is in the "in-board" position. If I do have a front/rear standing wave null, how do I minimize it? Would acoustic panels help?

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