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post #32851 of 32909 Old 03-26-2020, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
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Originally Posted by meak81 View Post
@Ed Mullen I have the crossover set at 80Hz for my mains and no external amp just using my denon x4500h. I have not tried to reverse the wiring polarity at both my speakers, I was unaware that I can try that? By reverse the wiring polarity do you mean plugging the positive banana plug into the negative and vice versa?
Yes - do it for both speakers and run the FR sweep again. This won't hurt the speakers at all - we're just reversing the electrical polarity of the signal.
@Ed Mullen Ok I'll try that to see if it helps and report my findings here, do I reverse the wiring polarity at the speakers connection and on my avr's speaker connection or just the speakers ends themselves?
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post #32852 of 32909 Old 03-26-2020, 10:09 AM
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@Ed Mullen Ok I'll try that to see if it helps and report my findings here, do I reverse the wiring polarity at the speakers connection and on my avr's speaker connection or just the speakers ends themselves?
Just do it at the speaker side.

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post #32853 of 32909 Old 03-26-2020, 05:37 PM
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I've been considering relegating my old Velodyne HGS 10 servo sub to my upstairs great room and getting an SVS sub for the downstairs theater/media room. It is carpet over concrete slab and have had to move the Velo behind my seating nearfield, it does pretty well as it is also corner loaded but I am wanting more tactile feel. The room is 15x18 and partially open to a billiards room, bedroom, bathroom, and the stairway leading upstairs.
I cant really do a sub crawl because there are only about three locations for placement, behind the seating, which is where the Velodyne sits or in either front corners flanking the SVS Prime Towers. Because of the way the front of the room is shaped (like half a stop sign) space is of a premium. I know you all are going to say PB or PC but I am also considering dual SB2000 Pro or even dual SB3000. I could easily fit a PC behind the seating and take advantage of both nearfield and corner loading but two SB would fit nicely in the front corners as would two PC's but I'm not sold on the form factor and my cat might mistake it for a scratching post but that hasn't happened with the other speaker grills. One or even two PB's would stick out too far into the room and really overwhelm the front of the room.
I've added photos of the front and back of the room, where you can the Velodyne placement.

Edit: Not sure why these thumbnails aren't working properly, recent Samsung Note 9..
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post #32854 of 32909 Old 03-26-2020, 07:10 PM
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@Ed Mullen So here are a couple of snaps of measurements, one with the polarity on the mains reversed and the other normal polarity crossover at 80 Hz. It seems the polarity reversal has helped out some with that big dip I have around 100 Hz but let me know what you think? Is it safe to leave my mains with the polarity reversed since I am getting better measurements like that? Also I was doing some measurements of my mains individually and it seems that the culprit is going to be my left main speaker, everytime I measure it it has that nasty drop around around that 100Hz mark my right main does not. I really appreciate all the help sorry for being a bug with all these questions.
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post #32855 of 32909 Old 03-26-2020, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
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Originally Posted by schwock5 View Post
Hi All,

about to begin framing my basement for a lounge/theater.
Wanted to get some preliminary advice/feedback on subs/layout/electric so i can plan as best as possible.
The room is fairly small (12.5 x 13 x 7.5) ~1,200 sq ft.

I was thinking of potentially using 2 PB2000 pros.
(however, if i can find a good used deal on a PB3000 i will go that route even if it may be overkill).

my question is, what do i need for power?
Given the size of the room, these wouldn't be driven THAT hard (i don't think).
also, my main speakers are Klipsch Reference, which are very sensitive and don't require too much power.
Do i need to run more than a dedicated 15amp line to the room? (the lighting will be on it's own circuit shared from the rest of the basement).
Should i do a dedicated 20amp and i just use regular 15amp outlets?

also, if there's a sub in the front and i plug this into my power center, which would also share the TV and receiver, is that not recommended?
and if a sub is in a different location should that have it's own surge protector on the outlet? what are folks using?
AV amplifiers (including sub amps) are transient draw devices. They will only draw peak power from the AC line for very short periods of time and most of the time the overall draw will be far lower. And a circuit breaker will typically pass 30-40% above its rated amperage for short periods of time anyway - they are thermally tripped due to heat build-up.

Contrast this against steady draw devices like salon hair dryers, space heaters, vacuum cleaners, air compressors, etc. These types of devices will typically cause the occasional circuit breaker to trip because they are steady high current draw (13-15 amps).

So AV amps rarely present any true issues with the AC circuit and a single 20A or twin 15A is more than enough for this entire system. Even a single 15A would be fine if nothing else was on the circuit.
Thanks Ed for your succinct response.

I myself have only one single 15 amp circuit feeding all my AV equipment and have never had an issue. Including feeding two SVS PB13 Ultra's

As I stated in my response to schwock5, 2 separate circuits would be more than enough for his purposes but if he wants to run 10 separate circuits all the power to him.
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post #32856 of 32909 Old 03-27-2020, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mylan View Post
I've been considering relegating my old Velodyne HGS 10 servo sub to my upstairs great room and getting an SVS sub for the downstairs theater/media room. It is carpet over concrete slab and have had to move the Velo behind my seating nearfield, it does pretty well as it is also corner loaded but I am wanting more tactile feel. The room is 15x18 and partially open to a billiards room, bedroom, bathroom, and the stairway leading upstairs.
I cant really do a sub crawl because there are only about three locations for placement, behind the seating, which is where the Velodyne sits or in either front corners flanking the SVS Prime Towers. Because of the way the front of the room is shaped (like half a stop sign) space is of a premium. I know you all are going to say PB or PC but I am also considering dual SB2000 Pro or even dual SB3000. I could easily fit a PC behind the seating and take advantage of both nearfield and corner loading but two SB would fit nicely in the front corners as would two PC's but I'm not sold on the form factor and my cat might mistake it for a scratching post but that hasn't happened with the other speaker grills. One or even two PB's would stick out too far into the room and really overwhelm the front of the room.
I've added photos of the front and back of the room, where you can the Velodyne placement.

Edit: Not sure why these thumbnails aren't working properly, recent Samsung Note 9..
Sealed subs and a set of Crowson's and you will have all of the bases covered. http://crowsontech.com
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post #32857 of 32909 Old 03-27-2020, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by meak81 View Post
@Ed Mullen So here are a couple of snaps of measurements, one with the polarity on the mains reversed and the other normal polarity crossover at 80 Hz. It seems the polarity reversal has helped out some with that big dip I have around 100 Hz but let me know what you think? Is it safe to leave my mains with the polarity reversed since I am getting better measurements like that? Also I was doing some measurements of my mains individually and it seems that the culprit is going to be my left main speaker, everytime I measure it it has that nasty drop around around that 100Hz mark my right main does not. I really appreciate all the help sorry for being a bug with all these questions.
Double check the wiring at both the speaker and the AVR on the left main. It's either a wiring error or simply bad room acoustics.

Reversing the electrical polarity going to the speakers won't hurt them - and since you are only running a 2 channel system it won't affect other speakers in the system (because there aren't any).

With that said, deliberate reversal of the wiring is never recommended unless it can be proven the speaker itself was built with negative polarity or there is a confirmed polarity reversal upstream in the signal chain.

All SVS speakers are built with positive polarity - but I've seen certain European brands built with negative polarity, and even more troubling it's only certain models.

I've also seen a polarity reversal using the XLR connections on certain brands of external amp - which is why I asked about that.

I've even see XLR cables themselves built with a polarity reversal.

Polarity reversals wreaks havoc in the system and give the owner fits until they can be isolated and corrected.

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post #32858 of 32909 Old 03-27-2020, 05:04 AM
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The second PB-3000 arrived yesterday and I'm now facing a connection decision. My 4400H has two sub outputs and a separate calibration for each sub, however I can't wrap my head around how can I place a second sub cable in a way for it to not be visible. I think I've exhausted my rooms capabilities in this regard.

So if I daisy chain both PB-3000s and calibrate them as a single sub, am I loosing much?

P.S.: If someone is having a hard time pushing against WAF with a big box like PB-3000 in a small to medium room, here's a little idea for you. Worked for me
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Screen: LG OLED77C9 AVR: Denon X4400H, External amps: Emotiva XPA-5 Gen3/A-500, Center: SVS Ultra Center, Fronts: SVS Ultra Bookshelfs, Surrounds: SVS Prime Bookshelfs, Surround backs: SVS Ultra Surrounds, Sub: Dual SVS PB-3000s, Heights: 4xCambridge Audio Minx 22, 4K Blu-Ray Player: Sony X700, Media player: Nvidia Shield

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post #32859 of 32909 Old 03-27-2020, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electronjunkie View Post
Thanks Ed for your succinct response.

I myself have only one single 15 amp circuit feeding all my AV equipment and have never had an issue. Including feeding two SVS PB13 Ultra's

As I stated in my response to schwock5, 2 separate circuits would be more than enough for his purposes but if he wants to run 10 separate circuits all the power to him.
lol...def not running 10 circuits!
i've always been in an apartment with no subs, so wasn't sure how much more it would use and since i have the opportunity now to do it right from the start wanted to cover all my bases.
You also read of all these crazy builds that have so many amps and so much power and separate power for projector vs sound, it's crazy.
I always try to find the best value point and a lot of the extreme stuff seems like a lot of money for minimal diminishing returns.

Since i already have a circuit in the basement for lights i'll continue to use that for the lighting and the bar (fridge, etc)
i think i can just run a dedicated 20 for the outlets that are around the room and that should work?

For the sub that wouldn't be near my existing power center/surge projector, should i be looking for something like this? does anyone have any recommendations or straight into wall?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...6MM2EV98&psc=1

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post #32860 of 32909 Old 03-27-2020, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schwock5 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by electronjunkie View Post
Thanks Ed for your succinct response.

I myself have only one single 15 amp circuit feeding all my AV equipment and have never had an issue. Including feeding two SVS PB13 Ultra's

As I stated in my response to schwock5, 2 separate circuits would be more than enough for his purposes but if he wants to run 10 separate circuits all the power to him.
lol...def not running 10 circuits!

For the sub that wouldn't be near my existing power center/surge projector, should i be looking for something like this? does anyone have any recommendations or straight into wall?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...6MM2EV98&psc=1
I was kidding about running 10 separate circuits but as I stated previously 2 circuits would be a good idea. Since your walls are open it's easy to do now.
As for surge protection, a plug in one like the one you linked certainly can't hurt.
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post #32861 of 32909 Old 03-27-2020, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by electronjunkie View Post
I was kidding about running 10 separate circuits but as I stated previously 2 circuits would be a good idea. Since your walls are open it's easy to do now.
As for surge protection, a plug in one like the one you linked certainly can't hurt.
Hi Mark, +1

Quote:
Originally Posted by schwock5 View Post
lol...def not running 10 circuits!
i've always been in an apartment with no subs, so wasn't sure how much more it would use and since i have the opportunity now to do it right from the start wanted to cover all my bases.
You also read of all these crazy builds that have so many amps and so much power and separate power for projector vs sound, it's crazy.
I always try to find the best value point and a lot of the extreme stuff seems like a lot of money for minimal diminishing returns.

Since i already have a circuit in the basement for lights i'll continue to use that for the lighting and the bar (fridge, etc)
i think i can just run a dedicated 20 for the outlets that are around the room and that should work?

For the sub that wouldn't be near my existing power center/surge projector, should i be looking for something like this? does anyone have any recommendations or straight into wall?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...6MM2EV98&psc=1
Hi,

Reference to the underline, if you mean using an existing wired for a 15Amp circuit and putting a new 20 Amp breaker for those wires.
I strongly suggest against-it, since a 20Amp circuit required a higher AWG wire and different plug outlet. Normally a 12AWG wire, compare to 14AWG for a 15 AMP circuit.

As @electronjunkie said, having your walls open would be a perfect time. To run the proper wires and using the proper wall outlet;
https://www.lowes.ca/product/electri...y%7CAll%20SDVs


Darth
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Last edited by darthray; 03-27-2020 at 06:52 AM.
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post #32862 of 32909 Old 03-27-2020, 06:37 AM
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Hi,

I'm glad that your new PB4000's are working so well for you. But, if you are enjoying the deep bass sound with the subs in Standard mode, then I think you will enjoy the Extended mode even more. As far as rerunning Audyssey goes, I can make a case for doing it either way. In a smaller room, Audyssey may be flattening out the frequency response, below about 20Hz, more than you want it too. If so, it is taking away some of your room gain that would help you to have a natural low-bass house curve. Starting in Standard mode, prior to running Audyssey, and then switching to Extended mode, post-Audyssey, should help in that case.

(You could also set a HPF in each subwoofer at about 20Hz, prior to running Audyssey, and then remove the HPF after running Audyssey. That would have the same effect on the <20Hz frequencies, and might be an even better method, since Audyssey would still be EQing the slight differences between the two modes above 20Hz. But, just changing the port tune seems a little easier for most people.)

In a larger room, which I believe you have, there may not be as much room gain to start with, and if so, Audyssey will stop EQing a little earlier anyway, due to the natural roll-off of the subs. (In theory, Audyssey will stop EQing at the natural -3dB roll-off point of the subs, in the room.) If you had REW, you could measure the difference in FR both ways. Without it, you will have to let your ears be the judge. I don't see any harm in trying it the way you have described--just changing the port tune to Extended mode without rerunning Audyssey.

Regards,
Mike

Thanks Mike,

I just tried extended mode last night and i will have to take some measurements with REW and compare to standard mode. I popped in Blade Runner 2049 and just using my ears i think i could feel a little more tactical bass and a super deep sound with extended mode but had a little more impact with standard mode. Also i tried some music and i think i can hear a little better delineation in the bass notes but again a little less output just a little. Once i do some measurements i will post them.

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post #32863 of 32909 Old 03-27-2020, 06:51 AM
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Hi Mark, +1



Hi,

Reference to the underline, if you mean using an existing wired for a 15Amp circuit and putting a new 20 Amp breaker for those wires.
I strongly suggest against-it, since a 20Amp circuit required a higher AWG wire and different plug outlet. Normally a 12AWG wire, compare to 14AWG for a 15 AMP circuit.


As @electronjunkie said,
the basement currently has 0 outlets, just a light in the ceiling. so that circuit i'd use for remaining lighting and outlets at the bar so nothing audio/video related is being shared.
for the remaining walls/rest of room i'd run a brand new dedicated 20 amp circuit just for those outlets, that was the plan. unless 15 is enough. but if i have to install a brand new circuit anyway should i just do a 20?

Additionally, no 20 amp device is being plugged in, so can the outlets just be 15 amp outlets but run from wire gauge and a breaker that's 20amp? or do they all need to be specific 20 amp outlets? and is there any difference? by using 15 amp outlets i'm essentially restricting any 20 amp device from being plugged in, but now they all together shared have 20amp capacity among them instead of 15 ....

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post #32864 of 32909 Old 03-27-2020, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by schwock5 View Post
the basement currently has 0 outlets, just a light in the ceiling. so that circuit i'd use for remaining lighting and outlets at the bar so nothing audio/video related is being shared.
for the remaining walls/rest of room i'd run a brand new dedicated 20 amp circuit just for those outlets, that was the plan. unless 15 is enough. but if i have to install a brand new circuit anyway should i just do a 20?

Additionally, no 20 amp device is being plugged in, so can the outlets just be 15 amp outlets but run from wire gauge and a breaker that's 20amp? or do they all need to be specific 20 amp outlets? and is there any difference? by using 15 amp outlets i'm essentially restricting any 20 amp device from being plugged in, but now they all together shared have 20amp capacity among them instead of 15 ....
First, 15 Amp is enough. I run dual 20 Amp, since I like to overkill (dual 15 Amp circuit and two more 20 Amp ones in my room).

While your devise are only rated at 15 Amp, and still can be use on a 20 Amp circuit. The 20 Amp circuit must be indicated by using the proper wall outlet (showed by the small Horizontal line).


Darth

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post #32865 of 32909 Old 03-27-2020, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meak81 View Post
@Ed Mullen So here are a couple of snaps of measurements, one with the polarity on the mains reversed and the other normal polarity crossover at 80 Hz. It seems the polarity reversal has helped out some with that big dip I have around 100 Hz but let me know what you think? Is it safe to leave my mains with the polarity reversed since I am getting better measurements like that? Also I was doing some measurements of my mains individually and it seems that the culprit is going to be my left main speaker, everytime I measure it it has that nasty drop around around that 100Hz mark my right main does not. I really appreciate all the help sorry for being a bug with all these questions.
Double check the wiring at both the speaker and the AVR on the left main. It's either a wiring error or simply bad room acoustics.

Reversing the electrical polarity going to the speakers won't hurt them - and since you are only running a 2 channel system it won't affect other speakers in the system (because there aren't any).

With that said, deliberate reversal of the wiring is never recommended unless it can be proven the speaker itself was built with negative polarity or there is a confirmed polarity reversal upstream in the signal chain.

All SVS speakers are built with positive polarity - but I've seen certain European brands built with negative polarity, and even more troubling it's only certain models.

I've also seen a polarity reversal using the XLR connections on certain brands of external amp - which is why I asked about that.

I've even see XLR cables themselves built with a polarity reversal.

Polarity reversals wreaks havoc in the system and give the owner fits until they can be isolated and corrected.
I see, well I purchased the Speaker wire from you guys as well it's the Soundpath Ultra speaker cables, and unless you think the wiring might be wrong on my left main ( has that happened before with these cables that you've heard of?) then it is probably going to be bad room acoustics.. which is unfortunate. @Ed Mullen
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post #32866 of 32909 Old 03-27-2020, 07:58 AM
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I see, well I purchased the Speaker wire from you guys as well it's the Soundpath Ultra speaker cables, and unless you think the wiring might be wrong on my left main ( has that happened before with these cables that you've heard of?) then it is probably going to be bad room acoustics.. which is unfortunate. @Ed Mullen
Anything is possible - including a cable accidentally built wrong.

Check the cable for continuity using a DMM across the positive terminals. If the cable shows 0 ohms (i.e., continuity) across the positive terminals - it was built correctly. If the cable shows an open circuit - it was built incorrectly and needs to be replaced.
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post #32867 of 32909 Old 03-27-2020, 10:01 AM
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Just want to say I run my PB16s in the "negative" polarity configuration (and keep all my speakers positive) as I get massive cancellation if I run them in the positive configuration. I measured each channel with the subs and always lost 10-30dB output above/around crossover in the positive config.

I've changed subwoofers, cables and external amps multiple times and always seen the same behavior. I used to just flip the wires to my speakers and listen to the difference before I even had REW to verify what I was hearing. The only thing that hasn't changed is my AVR. It could be doing something funky with the signal or i just have "bad" room acoustics.

Ed had me do the battery test a while ago and the woofers always pushed out so I don't think it's the speakers.

It sounds just fine running them out of phase for me, so I'd say trust your ears and use the measurements as verification.

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post #32868 of 32909 Old 03-27-2020, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Demetri Zuev View Post
The second PB-3000 arrived yesterday and I'm now facing a connection decision. My 4400H has two sub outputs and a separate calibration for each sub, however I can't wrap my head around how can I place a second sub cable in a way for it to not be visible. I think I've exhausted my rooms capabilities in this regard.

So if I daisy chain both PB-3000s and calibrate them as a single sub, am I loosing much?

P.S.: If someone is having a hard time pushing against WAF with a big box like PB-3000 in a small to medium room, here's a little idea for you. Worked for me
That looks like a perfect fit, nicely done! Did you obtain that table online or somewhere locally?
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post #32869 of 32909 Old 03-27-2020, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demetri Zuev View Post
The second PB-3000 arrived yesterday and I'm now facing a connection decision. My 4400H has two sub outputs and a separate calibration for each sub, however I can't wrap my head around how can I place a second sub cable in a way for it to not be visible. I think I've exhausted my rooms capabilities in this regard.

So if I daisy chain both PB-3000s and calibrate them as a single sub, am I loosing much?

P.S.: If someone is having a hard time pushing against WAF with a big box like PB-3000 in a small to medium room, here's a little idea for you. Worked for me
First, Audessey sets the distance and level for each sub independently but calibrates them as one. So I don't think you would lose much by daisy chaining them.

Have you thought about using a wireless kit? By most accounts they work quite well and I believe SVS sells them.

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post #32870 of 32909 Old 03-27-2020, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by schwock5 View Post
Additionally, no 20 amp device is being plugged in, so can the outlets just be 15 amp outlets but run from wire gauge and a breaker that's 20amp? or do they all need to be specific 20 amp outlets? and is there any difference? by using 15 amp outlets i'm essentially restricting any 20 amp device from being plugged in, but now they all together shared have 20amp capacity among them instead of 15 ....
Check with your electrician, but I'm pretty sure US code allows 15A outlets on a 20A circuit. I have that setup in my kitchen and garage (maybe bath too). Though you might as well use 20A outlets as they are only ~$3 more each and normal 15A plugs work in them. I never understood why builders don't just use 20A outlets in these places - maybe in bulk the 20A outlets start adding up.

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post #32871 of 32909 Old 03-27-2020, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Titan319 View Post
I just tried extended mode last night and i will have to take some measurements with REW and compare to standard mode. I popped in Blade Runner 2049 and just using my ears i think i could feel a little more tactical bass and a super deep sound with extended mode but had a little more impact with standard mode. Also i tried some music and i think i can hear a little better delineation in the bass notes but again a little less output just a little. Once i do some measurements i will post them.
You probably won't hear the difference with extended mode since most can't hear sounds below 20Hz, but you should feel it. And standard mode does have more impact above 20Hz, where you can hear things. Some like one, some like the other. So they give you a choice :-)
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post #32872 of 32909 Old 03-28-2020, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demetri Zuev View Post
The second PB-3000 arrived yesterday and I'm now facing a connection decision. My 4400H has two sub outputs and a separate calibration for each sub, however I can't wrap my head around how can I place a second sub cable in a way for it to not be visible. I think I've exhausted my rooms capabilities in this regard.

So if I daisy chain both PB-3000s and calibrate them as a single sub, am I loosing much?

P.S.: If someone is having a hard time pushing against WAF with a big box like PB-3000 in a small to medium room, here's a little idea for you. Worked for me
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kini62 View Post
First, Audessey sets the distance and level for each sub independently but calibrates them as one. So I don't think you would lose much by daisy chaining them.

Have you thought about using a wireless kit? By most accounts they work quite well and I believe SVS sells them.
If you want to take advantage of the dual discrete sub feature of XT32, where it will do distance and level matching independently - then you'll need to connect both subs separately to sub 1 and sub 2 pre-outs of the Denon.

Conversely, if you daisy-chain both subs from a single pre-out, you'll need to phase them with respect to each other for an optimal combined FR. This is best done using REW to steer the phase settings.

I've actually seen this method measure as well or better than the conventional XT32 approach, particularly when the subs are on opposing walls/corners. It's one of those things that you'll simply have to try both ways and see.

One wired and one wireless probably won't work optimally - most wireless units have a latency of 20-30 ms so getting both subs time-aligned won't be easy and may also exceed the distance limits in the AV processor.
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post #32873 of 32909 Old 03-29-2020, 03:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
If you want to take advantage of the dual discrete sub feature of XT32, where it will do distance and level matching independently - then you'll need to connect both subs separately to sub 1 and sub 2 pre-outs of the Denon.

Conversely, if you daisy-chain both subs from a single pre-out, you'll need to phase them with respect to each other for an optimal combined FR. This is best done using REW to steer the phase settings.

I've actually seen this method measure as well or better than the conventional XT32 approach, particularly when the subs are on opposing walls/corners. It's one of those things that you'll simply have to try both ways and see.

One wired and one wireless probably won't work optimally - most wireless units have a latency of 20-30 ms so getting both subs time-aligned won't be easy and may also exceed the distance limits in the AV processor.
Thanks Ed, looks like I will have to wrap my head around how can I squeeze in a second cable after all

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keenan View Post
That looks like a perfect fit, nicely done! Did you obtain that table online or somewhere locally?
It was made by a local shop with custom measurements provided by me to specifically fit PB-3000. Here's a 3D model with all the dimensions, mind you, they are listed for a sub including SVS isolation feet that are installed on my unit, but feet themselves are not pictured on the model. The metal pipe is 20mm wide all around.

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post #32874 of 32909 Old 03-29-2020, 10:24 AM
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Thinking about upgrading from my SB-1000 to an SB-2000 Pro while I'm still in the window. I'm completely over what Audyssey does to my speakers, but I do like what it does to my sub.

I was wondering how well the 3 band EQ of the Pro series compares to Audyssey's results? I have a huge room gain mode centered at 37hz which makes my single sub sound like a 1 note wonder with no digital magic. I have a couple smaller gains here and there as well, but nothing like that one.

What say you Pro owners (especially SB-2000) regarding your experience with the onboard APP's EQ results?
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post #32875 of 32909 Old 03-29-2020, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demetri Zuev View Post


It was made by a local shop with custom measurements provided by me to specifically fit PB-3000. Here's a 3D model with all the dimensions, mind you, they are listed for a sub including SVS isolation feet that are installed on my unit, but feet themselves are not pictured on the model. The metal pipe is 20mm wide all around.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NuEemmfeJ7w
That's fantastic, thank you for the information!
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post #32876 of 32909 Old 03-29-2020, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by D Bone View Post
Thinking about upgrading from my SB-1000 to an SB-2000 Pro while I'm still in the window. I'm completely over what Audyssey does to my speakers, but I do like what it does to my sub.

I was wondering how well the 3 band EQ of the Pro series compares to Audyssey's results? I have a huge room gain mode centered at 37hz which makes my single sub sound like a 1 note wonder with no digital magic. I have a couple smaller gains here and there as well, but nothing like that one.

What say you Pro owners (especially SB-2000) regarding your experience with the onboard APP's EQ results?
The app provides you with 3 bands which may or may not be enough depending on your sweep results. I haven't used Audyssey since they are now providing an app so my questions is: Does the Audyssey app allow you to do any manual eq? And if so, to what extent? You also have the MiniDSP option.
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post #32877 of 32909 Old 03-29-2020, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by H Stevens View Post
The app provides you with 3 bands which may or may not be enough depending on your sweep results. I haven't used Audyssey since they are now providing an app so my questions is: Does the Audyssey app allow you to do any manual eq? And if so, to what extent? You also have the MiniDSP option.
I have the Audyssey app and absolutely hate it..... 2 different phones, 3 different AVRs and 2 different houses and I can't get the PoS to ever go through all 8 positions without disconnecting, or whatever the hell happens to it.

If I could rip the actual app out of my phone and hold it in my hand, I would throw it down a well and make it put the lotion on its skin for the many hours of frustration it has caused me. I can't believe I actually paid for it.

I'm just looking to get my sub "close" - compared to where it is now without correction, and am not looking for perfection. If all 3 of the EQ target points are infinitely adjustable, then that will be good enough for me.

I was going to go with an Antimode 8033S-II and keep my SB-1000, but it's actually $0.50 cheaper to buy the SB-2000 Pro.
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post #32878 of 32909 Old 03-30-2020, 06:21 AM
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I have a pair of paradigm seismic 10 subs where the foam around the passive drivers gave out and deteriorated pretty badly. I’m now in the market for some subs. Would the the sb2000 be on par to what I have or do I have to go with the sb3000?
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post #32879 of 32909 Old 03-30-2020, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by D Bone View Post
I have the Audyssey app and absolutely hate it..... 2 different phones, 3 different AVRs and 2 different houses and I can't get the PoS to ever go through all 8 positions without disconnecting, or whatever the hell happens to it.

If I could rip the actual app out of my phone and hold it in my hand, I would throw it down a well and make it put the lotion on its skin for the many hours of frustration it has caused me. I can't believe I actually paid for it.

I'm just looking to get my sub "close" - compared to where it is now without correction, and am not looking for perfection. If all 3 of the EQ target points are infinitely adjustable, then that will be good enough for me.

I was going to go with an Antimode 8033S-II and keep my SB-1000, but it's actually $0.50 cheaper to buy the SB-2000 Pro.
The audyssey app is miserably buggy. A couple tips.

1. Make sure your AVR is hard wired.
2. Don't use other apps while calibrating. Random button presses have hosed the whole thing for me.
3. Try and get through the whole thing as fast as possible I put my phone down and do nothing but click next when prompted.

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post #32880 of 32909 Old 03-30-2020, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Magellan55 View Post
Check with your electrician, but I'm pretty sure US code allows 15A outlets on a 20A circuit. I have that setup in my kitchen and garage (maybe bath too). Though you might as well use 20A outlets as they are only ~$3 more each and normal 15A plugs work in them. I never understood why builders don't just use 20A outlets in these places - maybe in bulk the 20A outlets start adding up.

This would not meet code. You can put a 20A outlet on a 15A circuit but putting a 15A outlet on a 20A circuit means there is no protection for the outlet. It could see higher than rated currents which could lead to damage and or fire.
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