Official SVS Owners/Support Thread. - Page 1098 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #32911 of 33563 Old 04-02-2020, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
Hi Mark,

Not to mention, on that day. The weather, was not at it's best for a winter day. And for two older fellow like You and me, it was a bit of a challenge to load them
But we got it done, and had a pleasant chat about Audio

Wishing You, and all other member. That you are staying in good health, in those hard time.


Darth
We did get it done and I have to say it's a pleasure to meet a forum member face to face and talk about our hobby!
The drive home was the easy part. Once I was home I backed my SUV right up to my front step and slid those monsters on blankets all the way down in to my basement by myself.

Anyways, everyone stay safe, stay healthy and be kind in these trying times.

Mark
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post #32912 of 33563 Old 04-02-2020, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Titan319 View Post
If the Pb16's are more then you want to spend i would consider the PB-4000's a nice in between and they sound really close the the 16 ultra.
agreed, ive got the pb-4000 and it still impresses me even after 2 years of owning it.
it is a serious sub that hits deep and clean.
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post #32913 of 33563 Old 04-02-2020, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by electronjunkie View Post
We did get it done and I have to say it's a pleasure to meet a forum member face to face and talk about our hobby!
The drive home was the easy part. Once I was home I backed my SUV right up to my front step and slid those monsters on blankets all the way down in to my basement by myself.

Anyways, everyone stay safe, stay healthy and be kind in these trying times.

Mark
Same here, my friend
And +1, on your last!


Darth
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post #32914 of 33563 Old 04-02-2020, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
Set the fronts crossover to the highest frequency and sweep again. We need to see if that is the subwoofer or the speakers or a phase issue between them.
OK, so i set the mains crossover to 200Hz and the LPF for LFE to 200Hz as well and ran a new sweep... looks like the deep null at 80Hz is still there. Moving the crossover to 200 helped the smaller null around 190Hz.
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post #32915 of 33563 Old 04-02-2020, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by UMD_Terp View Post
OK, so i set the mains crossover to 200Hz and the LPF for LFE to 200Hz as well and ran a new sweep... looks like the deep null at 80Hz is still there. Moving the crossover to 200 helped the smaller null around 190Hz.
Do you happen to have a really low ceiling? That almost looks like a vertical null you're getting at 90Hz, though normally it's more in the 60-70Hz range for 8-9' ceilings.

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post #32916 of 33563 Old 04-02-2020, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Magellan55 View Post

Do you happen to have a really low ceiling? That almost looks like a vertical null you're getting at 90Hz, though normally it's more in the 60-70Hz range for 8-9' ceilings.
It’s a 9 foot ceiling... room is about 18’ wide by 16.5’ deep
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post #32917 of 33563 Old 04-03-2020, 01:21 AM
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So is it ok to leave my subs on the default of always on? Will it harm the amps of my subs if I leave it on the always on setting or should I set them to auto?
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post #32918 of 33563 Old 04-03-2020, 01:42 AM
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I came here to post that I ordered a second SB-4000 but it's crushing to see endless posts about broken avs subs. My first sub was a dud and I hope I am not im the hordes posting here with multiple broken subs etc. I just want to liaten to my subs without worry for the years that $7000 total between the 2 should justify.

Very keen to hear what 2 of these can do when one is amazing.
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post #32919 of 33563 Old 04-03-2020, 02:42 AM
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Hello.

New here, and came here to poke some minds.
I bought my first svs sub years ago, a sb13+
And, knock on wood it has been fine right upp untill last week.

Now i just so happend to have two sb16 amps laying arround
Thank you svs for sticking with the same formfactor amps

Now i had a look at the old sta-1000d and it fires upp, i can navigate the menus and it basicly works.
there just is no sound ouput. Now there is no excessive heat buildupp so i assume it might be the preamp card/dsp module.
And if it is, would be a terrible shame to toss a working amp, as far as i know the only reason to toss it would be if the power supply was a gonner?
Anyone worked on these amps?
I know there has been alot of discussion about them going bad, but repairs?
And yes i know you can still get them new from some places, just want to know if it can be saved seeing as it still fires upp np.

Best regards.
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post #32920 of 33563 Old 04-03-2020, 05:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UMD_Terp View Post
OK, so i set the mains crossover to 200Hz and the LPF for LFE to 200Hz as well and ran a new sweep... looks like the deep null at 80Hz is still there. Moving the crossover to 200 helped the smaller null around 190Hz.
OK thanks - it's definitely a room null.

It's very narrow though - which is a good thing - but it's also very deep.

Where is the sub located relative to the MLP and how much latitude do you have with respect to alternate placement options?

I would try all possible room locations and remeasure with REW and pick the best one. I'll take a few peaks over a deep/persistent null.

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post #32921 of 33563 Old 04-03-2020, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post

OK thanks - it's definitely a room null.

It's very narrow though - which is a good thing - but it's also very deep.

Where is the sub located relative to the MLP and how much latitude do you have with respect to alternate placement options?

I would try all possible room locations and remeasure with REW and pick the best one. I'll take a few peaks over a deep/persistent null.
Unfortunately the location in this case is fixed. I can possibly add another sub down the road in a second spot, but for now this one will have to stay where it is. The sub itself is about 13’ from the MLP in the corner firing at the MLP.

I guess the null isn’t too bad in that it is narrow... are there any other things to try? I get that you can’t necessarily just dump energy into the null and have it be effective.

Appreciate all the help!
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post #32922 of 33563 Old 04-03-2020, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by UMD_Terp View Post
Unfortunately the location in this case
You will be very surprised how turning that sub 90 degrees left or right will change the response at the listening position and possibly even correct that issue. I have a sealed sub in one room that is positioned along a side wall and when it is facing out into the room I have a deep null around 63 Hz that completely goes away as soon as I turn the sub 90 degrees and have it facing toward the front.
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post #32923 of 33563 Old 04-03-2020, 08:51 PM
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You will be very surprised how turning that sub 90 degrees left or right will change the response at the listening position and possibly even correct that issue. I have a sealed sub in one room that is positioned along a side wall and when it is facing out into the room I have a deep null around 63 Hz that completely goes away as soon as I turn the sub 90 degrees and have it facing toward the front.
Well, the sub is in a built-in enclosure so I am afraid I don't have the ability to turn it 90 degrees... thanks for the advice, however.

I can get the null to be narrower if I change the sub polarity negative and adjust the phase slightly to 20 degrees. Its still there, but much more frequency selective. I might do another run of audyssey after this tweak to fix some peaks that this introduces.

This is a living room and not a dedicated theater, so there will be some compromises. I do appreciate all the helpful input.
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post #32924 of 33563 Old 04-04-2020, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by UMD_Terp View Post
Well, the sub is in a built-in enclosure so I am afraid I don't have the ability to turn it 90 degrees... thanks for the advice, however.

I can get the null to be narrower if I change the sub polarity negative and adjust the phase slightly to 20 degrees. Its still there, but much more frequency selective. I might do another run of audyssey after this tweak to fix some peaks that this introduces.

This is a living room and not a dedicated theater, so there will be some compromises. I do appreciate all the helpful input.
Reversing the sub polarity isn't recommended - when you re-integrate the mains by lowering the crossover back to its normal setting, the reverse polarity will likely show an even larger cancellation than the narrow null you are attempting to fix.

If all physical changes are locked-out and non-starters - then you might want to try minor changes to the MLP to the extent they are possible give the video display and other speaker locations.

If moving the MLP is also a non-starter (and it often is), then you might just need to live with it. As nulls go - it's very narrow and won't be very audible.

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post #32925 of 33563 Old 04-04-2020, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Mrimstad View Post
Hello.

New here, and came here to poke some minds.
I bought my first svs sub years ago, a sb13+
And, knock on wood it has been fine right upp untill last week.

Now i just so happend to have two sb16 amps laying arround
Thank you svs for sticking with the same formfactor amps

Now i had a look at the old sta-1000d and it fires upp, i can navigate the menus and it basicly works.
there just is no sound ouput. Now there is no excessive heat buildupp so i assume it might be the preamp card/dsp module.
And if it is, would be a terrible shame to toss a working amp, as far as i know the only reason to toss it would be if the power supply was a gonner?
Anyone worked on these amps?
I know there has been alot of discussion about them going bad, but repairs?
And yes i know you can still get them new from some places, just want to know if it can be saved seeing as it still fires upp np.

Best regards.
First bump test the woofer via a 9V battery applied to the female spades to make sure the wiring and the woofer are OK.

If the wiring/woofer test OK - then the amp needs to be replaced - I wouldn't bother attempting to repair it. The replacement amp is the Sledge 1200D shipping in the 4000 series. Contact SVS CS and reference this thread and we'll take it from there.

Ed Mullen
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post #32926 of 33563 Old 04-04-2020, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by meak81 View Post
So is it ok to leave my subs on the default of always on? Will it harm the amps of my subs if I leave it on the always on setting or should I set them to auto?
Leaving the amp set to On won't cause harm - but it will use considerably more energy than Auto mode after it drops into standby. On mode idling with no signal will pull 20-25W from the line whereas standby only uses using about 0.5W - so definitely go with Auto mode.

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post #32927 of 33563 Old 04-04-2020, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
Reversing the sub polarity isn't recommended - when you re-integrate the mains by lowering the crossover back to its normal setting, the reverse polarity will likely show an even larger cancellation than the narrow null you are attempting to fix.

If all physical changes are locked-out and non-starters - then you might want to try minor changes to the MLP to the extent they are possible give the video display and other speaker locations.

If moving the MLP is also a non-starter (and it often is), then you might just need to live with it. As nulls go - it's very narrow and won't be very audible.
I only changed the polarity/phase after setting the crossover back to 80Hz and then checking sweeps to see if there was a difference.

I may have some leeway in slight adjustments in listening position. I’ll play around with it some. Thanks again...
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post #32928 of 33563 Old 04-05-2020, 02:42 PM
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Hey Darth,

I'm not going to say this is for everyone but speaking of what I do know generally speaking on Selling Per-Owned A/V gear.

It's next to impossible UNLESS you are prepared to almost give it away and in some cases the buyer even wants you to deliver it for FREE !!!
(And with WARRANTY)

As you might recall recently I purchased from local Best Buy's (Magnolia Center) 4 SVS PB-4000 subs.

That means I then have 4 Mirage BPS-400 subwoofers to do something with.

I made the decision to deal with my local A/V dealer and of course installer .

So, by doing that I don't have to deal with the Public, period.
And believe me I'm glad !!!

Terry
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If what you are selling is exactly what the buyer wants then it can work out very well for both parties. I bought both of darth's PB13Ultra's because I knew exactly what these subs are capable of and the price was excellent! For me it was worth the 6 hour round trip drive and I believe for darth it worked out well, also. Due to his location the shipping costs were very prohibitive. 155 lb subs ain't cheap to ship!
In over 20 years of upgrading electronics and speakers, my experience has been parallel to @electronjunkie ...that is exceptionally easy and painless. Buyers and sellers who are of the same mindset and understand the value of the transaction typically arrive at a fair price for both as well as an agreed upon transaction location. I’ve sold $50 and $2000 items without difficulty or fanfair, both of us happy, and never had a request for a return or refund. It’s really dependent on the right two collaborative parties getting together.

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post #32929 of 33563 Old 04-05-2020, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by dchalfont View Post
I came here to post that I ordered a second SB-4000 but it's crushing to see endless posts about broken avs subs. My first sub was a dud and I hope I am not im the hordes posting here with multiple broken subs etc. I just want to liaten to my subs without worry for the years that $7000 total between the 2 should justify.
My first SB13U was also DOA (bad amp), but I think even called on a Sunday (?) and had the option of sending back or sending a new amp for me to change. Easier to change the amp. Had a new one withing a few days, all good! 2nd one was a non-issue, both fine 4 years for one, and about 3.5 years later for the other. SVS service is excellent, I don't think anybody here would argue otherwise.

You're gonna get DOAs from every manufacturer and even the best of the best will have premature failures. SVS has a robust 5 year warranty, which is pretty good really.

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post #32930 of 33563 Old 04-06-2020, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dchalfont View Post
I came here to post that I ordered a second SB-4000 but it's crushing to see endless posts about broken avs subs. My first sub was a dud and I hope I am not im the hordes posting here with multiple broken subs etc. I just want to liaten to my subs without worry for the years that $7000 total between the 2 should justify.
My first SB13U was also DOA (bad amp), but I think even called on a Sunday (?) and had the option of sending back or sending a new amp for me to change. Easier to change the amp. Had a new one withing a few days, all good! 2nd one was a non-issue, both fine 4 years for one, and about 3.5 years later for the other. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG] SVS service is excellent, I don't think anybody here would argue otherwise.

You're gonna get DOAs from every manufacturer and even the best of the best will have premature failures. SVS has a robust 5 year warranty, which is pretty good really.
Yes my amp on my SB13 also had issues and SVS took care of it so quickly, my head was spinning at the turnaround time. Hence when I was in the market for another sub, I considered Monoprice but I just couldn’t overlook SVS and bought a PB16.

Plan is to buy another PB16 down the road as this unit is literally out of this world good imho. Others may have higher standards or whatnot but in my room, this sub has everything I wanted and more. It’s like I have 10 of the SB13 subs (I’m exaggerating to make a point &#x1f60a.
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post #32931 of 33563 Old 04-07-2020, 01:02 AM
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New Android SVS app update.
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What's the general consensus on XLR vs RCA cables?

I've got an SB16 coming tomorrow, my Anthem pre-pro supports both and I need to buy a new cable.

Thanks

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Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
First bump test the woofer via a 9V battery applied to the female spades to make sure the wiring and the woofer are OK.

If the wiring/woofer test OK - then the amp needs to be replaced - I wouldn't bother attempting to repair it. The replacement amp is the Sledge 1200D shipping in the 4000 series. Contact SVS CS and reference this thread and we'll take it from there.
`
Thanks for the reply Ed.

Not going to buy a new amp for this old thing.
The woofer works, (running a sta-1500d in there now)
I was just currius if it was possible to repair givven the amp still turns on.
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post #32934 of 33563 Old 04-08-2020, 03:37 AM
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Welcome home twinsie.
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post #32935 of 33563 Old 04-08-2020, 05:31 AM
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Welcome home twinsie.
Very nice, Congrats!
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post #32936 of 33563 Old 04-08-2020, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by DannyBoy73 View Post
What's the general consensus on XLR vs RCA cables?

I've got an SB16 coming tomorrow, my Anthem pre-pro supports both and I need to buy a new cable.

Thanks

Go with the xlr cables. That way you will be sure not to be picking up and noise from that cable and you can run a longer cable if you need to. But if your only need to run a 10’ or shorter cable. The rca will be fine. No need for costly cables. Just make sure it’s a shielded cable even if it’s a rca cable


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post #32937 of 33563 Old 04-08-2020, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by hessc50 View Post
Go with the xlr cables. That way you will be sure not to be picking up and noise from that cable and you can run a longer cable if you need to. But if your only need to run a 10’ or shorter cable. The rca will be fine. No need for costly cables. Just make sure it’s a shielded cable even if it’s a rca cable
Great, thank you!

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post #32938 of 33563 Old 04-08-2020, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by DannyBoy73 View Post
What's the general consensus on XLR vs RCA cables?

I've got an SB16 coming tomorrow, my Anthem pre-pro supports both and I need to buy a new cable.
While maybe not absolutely necessary, if you've got the option for XLR, might as well use 'em! I use them on my AVM / SVS duals (but I do have relatively long runs).

If I didn't make my own, I'd buy one of these:

http://www.mogamicable.com/category/...6-15-25-50.php

Plenty of options out there though on the less expensive (or more expensive) side....

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #32939 of 33563 Old 04-08-2020, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
While maybe not absolutely necessary, if you've got the option for XLR, might as well use 'em! I use them on my AVM / SVS duals (but I do have relatively long runs).

If I didn't make my own, I'd buy one of these:

http://www.mogamicable.com/category/...6-15-25-50.php

Plenty of options out there though on the less expensive (or more expensive) side....
Those are amazing, just bought a few a while back.

Can't go wrong with the Mogami Gold series for subs.
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post #32940 of 33563 Old 04-08-2020, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Balbolito View Post
Those are amazing, just bought a few a while back.

Can't go wrong with the Mogami Gold series for subs.

Yeah, I didn't buy complete cables, rather the bulk form that is used in them so I could make my own custom lengths. Used those connectors too, but 90 degree angled ones on the subs so I could get them closer to their respective walls. I've built out of Canare and Belden as well, but Mogami is my favorite.
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7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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