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post #23761 of 31562 Old 05-01-2016, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by systemlayers View Post
But if I connect to the Y connector I'm not getting all the benefits of SUB EQ on audyssey? Can I just connect all 3 to the minidsp? I think the minidsp can still route the signals to both for audyssey sub eq.

I have always understood that you don't want the buttkicker in the signal chain during an Audyssey calibration. I would start by calibrating the subs with their separate inputs and then add the buttkicker post-calibration. Then, if some sort of post-calibration tweaking of the buttkicker (or the subs) were helpful, you could use the miniDSP for that.

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post #23762 of 31562 Old 05-01-2016, 06:40 AM
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My SVS PB13-Ultra wasn't working so looking online I found that it would likely be the fuse, the thermistor, or something else with the BASH amp. I can't find the manual or a spare fuse, so I just removed the amp... only to discover there was no fuse there. It's on the plug. Doh! I'm an idiot. I didn't see that mentioned in the online manual though, although in retrospect it's stamped right on the back of the unit. I just didn't know what T6.3AL meant. Now I do. I guess the silver lining to having removed the amp is I got to check the thermistors and they are fine.

I curious, do the fuses normal blow like this? Mine was in a bazillion pieces.





Also, where to get them in Toronto/Scarborough? I assume they are 5mm x 20mm, correct? I checked The Source (which used to be Radio Shack) and in that size they jump from 5 amp to 10 amp. No 6.3 amp. I'm thinking Sayal Electronics, but my understanding these are slow blow fuses, correct? The only 6.3A I found in the Sayal catalogue says "FB" which I assume means fast blow.

http://www.sayal.com/STORE/Action_SE...rch_key=5x20mm

Also, this one doesn't mention the "L" in the fuse name, but that just means glass right?
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post #23763 of 31562 Old 05-01-2016, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by BuGsArEtAsTy View Post
My SVS PB13-Ultra wasn't working so looking online I found that it would likely be the fuse, the thermistor, or something else with the BASH amp. I can't find the manual or a spare fuse, so I just removed the amp... only to discover there was no fuse there. It's on the plug. Doh! I'm an idiot. I didn't see that mentioned in the online manual though, although in retrospect it's stamped right on the back of the unit. I just didn't know what T6.3AL meant. Now I do. I guess the silver lining to having removed the amp is I got to check the thermistors and they are fine.

I curious, do the fuses normal blow like this? Mine was in a bazillion pieces.





Also, where to get them in Toronto/Scarborough? I assume they are 5mm x 20mm, correct? I checked The Source (which used to be Radio Shack) and in that size they jump from 5 amp to 10 amp. No 6.3 amp. I'm thinking Sayal Electronics, but my understanding these are slow blow fuses, correct? The only 6.3A I found in the Sayal catalogue says "FB" which I assume means fast blow.

http://www.sayal.com/STORE/Action_SE...rch_key=5x20mm

Also, this one doesn't mention the "L" in the fuse name, but that just means glass right?

Don't know about the "L" but I'd email SVS and let them know you're having trouble finding a replacement, they just might send you one

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post #23764 of 31562 Old 05-01-2016, 10:44 AM
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Well I tried everything suggested, decided to hook up the dual PBs to my minidsp finally and recalculated audyssey and... they both chuff now DEQ on or off haha. Tried switching positions and it was the same. They're both in the best spot in the room response wise.
It's only that one 10hz hit i've ever heard them on actually. What I did was cross them over at 20hz with the minidsp and the chuffing pretty much disappeared. Not ideal obviously but I'm building dual 18" DIY units soon which should be a ton more capable anyways and will move the PBs behind the couch for some nearfield mid bass shake.
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post #23765 of 31562 Old 05-01-2016, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by systemlayers View Post
Well I tried everything suggested, decided to hook up the dual PBs to my minidsp finally and recalculated audyssey and... they both chuff now DEQ on or off haha. Tried switching positions and it was the same. They're both in the best spot in the room response wise.
It's only that one 10hz hit i've ever heard them on actually. What I did was cross them over at 20hz with the minidsp and the chuffing pretty much disappeared. Not ideal obviously but I'm building dual 18" DIY units soon which should be a ton more capable anyways and will move the PBs behind the couch for some nearfield mid bass shake.

Bummer, but at least now you know. FWIW, that 10Hz tone is way above their pay grade. Or below, depending on your point of view.

I believe that 20Hz is actually about as low as the PB-1000 is supposed to be able to go in-room. And at -15 MV, for example, I think that DEQ adds about 9db of boost below 20Hz. That would make me chuff, too.
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #23766 of 31562 Old 05-01-2016, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Bummer, but at least now you know. FWIW, that 10Hz tone is way above their pay grade. Or below, depending on your point of view.

I believe that 20Hz is actually about as low as the PB-1000 is supposed to be able to go in-room. And at -15 MV, for example, I think that DEQ adds about 9db of boost below 20Hz. That would make me chuff, too.
I still think they're great subs to 20hz or so. Quite powerful when I need them to be but since my room is open on 2 sides I think they're having to work quite hard to get to that SPL. They got me addicted to bass in the first place. Perhaps they've struggled in other scenes but it hasn't been noticeable until that beginning on Edge of Tomorrow. So I'm not going to lament budget subs choking a bit on a single 20 second sequence. Now when I get my UXL-18s built and hooked up to a Behringer 6000 watt.. that's when the real fun begins (I hope).

On another note this weekend I did way too much testing.. but it yielded great results. Added some more room treatments and spent a LONG time moving my SVS Ultras to the absolute best spot I could in the room. They were too close to the wall and getting quite a bit of room null at the MLP (around 80hz). Didn't get the nulls perfect but did get them manageable. My corner bass traps actually only yield about a 5db improvement on that 80hz bass null, alas I don't have room for 4 feet of bass trap .

It was worth it. I compared apples to apples with my go to track (Daft Punk- Get Lucky) and the bass was much tighter and satisfying with my subs/towers in the best possible spots. I actually heard things I'd never heard of before on my flac version of Philip Glass's Koyaanisqatsi soundtrack (reed playing breathing).

It's crazy the difference only a few inches can make in terms of measurable response in REW. I'm going to have to play with the minidsps EQ feature some more to see if I want to produce a house curve or anything.
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post #23767 of 31562 Old 05-02-2016, 02:45 PM
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So I think my dual PB-1000s perform quite differently maybe to the point of a defect in the one? They're almost identical in distance to MLP, both placed midwall 11 inches from wall (did a LOT of experimentation in REW and their response is best there). One chuffs HARD during the opening scene of Edge of Tomorrow (the 10hz part). Chuffs hard at -10 and even a bit at -25 (no sub trim boost, DEQ on). The other seems to have no issues at all. My Left (non chuffing sub) also needs a gain to about 3 oclock to hit -80db when I calibrate for Audyssey and the Right needs only 12 oclock. Thus when I tried to do the gain matching method I couldn't really. Not sure if I should bring this issue to SVS? From what I was reading chuffing is more of a port tuning thing..
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But if I connect to the Y connector I'm not getting all the benefits of SUB EQ on audyssey? Can I just connect all 3 to the minidsp? I think the minidsp can still route the signals to both for audyssey sub eq.
I see you've pretty much got your issue figured out, I just wanted to point out that if your two subs are equidistant to the MLP (as you mentioned above), you won't be missing anything by not using SubEQ HT. All it does is set different distances and levels for the two subs...since they are equidistant, the distance settings won't matter and you can set the levels with the gain controls on the subs themselves.
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post #23768 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 12:19 AM
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OK-

So I finally setup my sub and ran Audyssey. Never done any type of setup like this so still learning here...

Per SVS manual, I set the vol to -20dB when running Audyssy. Hooked it up to the right LFE input.

When I ran Audyssey, said vol was too low and made me set it to -11dB.

Now I feel like I'm missing out on bass, tried turning the VOL(gain?) up on the sub, but still don't get that "oomf" I'd thought I'd get by adding this massive sub (ran my setup without a bass for awhile)

I changed my fronts to small and the crossover to all speakers to 80hz. LPF to LFE is set to 120Hz ( can be set as high as 250Hz, didn't mess with that)

Did I miss configure something?

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post #23769 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by BuGsArEtAsTy View Post
My SVS PB13-Ultra wasn't working so looking online I found that it would likely be the fuse, the thermistor, or something else with the BASH amp. I can't find the manual or a spare fuse, so I just removed the amp... only to discover there was no fuse there. It's on the plug. Doh! I'm an idiot. I didn't see that mentioned in the online manual though, although in retrospect it's stamped right on the back of the unit. I just didn't know what T6.3AL meant. Now I do. I guess the silver lining to having removed the amp is I got to check the thermistors and they are fine.

I curious, do the fuses normal blow like this? Mine was in a bazillion pieces.





Also, where to get them in Toronto/Scarborough? I assume they are 5mm x 20mm, correct? I checked The Source (which used to be Radio Shack) and in that size they jump from 5 amp to 10 amp. No 6.3 amp. I'm thinking Sayal Electronics, but my understanding these are slow blow fuses, correct? The only 6.3A I found in the Sayal catalogue says "FB" which I assume means fast blow.

http://www.sayal.com/STORE/Action_SE...rch_key=5x20mm

Also, this one doesn't mention the "L" in the fuse name, but that just means glass right?
I found the slow blow 6.3A fuses at Sayal. ~CAD$5 for 5.

Put one in and turned the sub on. Lights flickered for a split second and then nothing. Sub still dead. Checked fuse and it was blown. Tried again. Blown fuse again. And again. I'm glad I got 5 fuses.

Is it correct to assume the amp is just dead? Like I said I couldn't see any external damage to the thermistors but I'm not an engineer.

Any point trying to get it repaired? If so, where to do that in Toronto? How do I disconnect the amp? Do I just cut the two wires going to the driver?
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post #23770 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by SodomySquirrel View Post
OK-

So I finally setup my sub and ran Audyssey. Never done any type of setup like this so still learning here...

Per SVS manual, I set the vol to -20dB when running Audyssy. Hooked it up to the right LFE input.

When I ran Audyssey, said vol was too low and made me set it to -11dB.

Now I feel like I'm missing out on bass, tried turning the VOL(gain?) up on the sub, but still don't get that "oomf" I'd thought I'd get by adding this massive sub (ran my setup without a bass for awhile)

I changed my fronts to small and the crossover to all speakers to 80hz. LPF to LFE is set to 120Hz ( can be set as high as 250Hz, didn't mess with that)

Did I miss configure something?
Sub placement is critical for good bass.
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post #23771 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by BuGsArEtAsTy View Post
I found the slow blow 6.3A fuses at Sayal. ~CAD$5 for 5.

Put one in and turned the sub on. Lights flickered for a split second and then nothing. Sub still dead. Checked fuse and it was blown. Tried again. Blown fuse again. And again. I'm glad I got 5 fuses.

Is it correct to assume the amp is just dead? Like I said I couldn't see any external damage to the thermistors but I'm not an engineer.

Any point trying to get it repaired? If so, where to do that in Toronto? How do I disconnect the amp? Do I just cut the two wires going to the driver?
Call SVS.
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post #23772 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SodomySquirrel View Post
OK-

So I finally setup my sub and ran Audyssey. Never done any type of setup like this so still learning here...

Per SVS manual, I set the vol to -20dB when running Audyssy. Hooked it up to the right LFE input.

When I ran Audyssey, said vol was too low and made me set it to -11dB.

Now I feel like I'm missing out on bass, tried turning the VOL(gain?) up on the sub, but still don't get that "oomf" I'd thought I'd get by adding this massive sub (ran my setup without a bass for awhile)

I changed my fronts to small and the crossover to all speakers to 80hz. LPF to LFE is set to 120Hz ( can be set as high as 250Hz, didn't mess with that)

Did I miss configure something?
This sounds like you're sitting in a null. While there is some learning curve I would suggest picking up a measurement mic and running Room EQ Wizard. It will allow you to see the frequency response and will give you a better idea of what the problem is. If you are sitting in a null the only real way to fix the problem is to move either the main listening position or the sub. REW makes life easier because it removes the guess work and allows you to see the difference you're making when you change things.

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post #23773 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SodomySquirrel View Post
OK-

So I finally setup my sub and ran Audyssey. Never done any type of setup like this so still learning here...

Per SVS manual, I set the vol to -20dB when running Audyssy. Hooked it up to the right LFE input.

When I ran Audyssey, said vol was too low and made me set it to -11dB.

Now I feel like I'm missing out on bass, tried turning the VOL(gain?) up on the sub, but still don't get that "oomf" I'd thought I'd get by adding this massive sub (ran my setup without a bass for awhile)

I changed my fronts to small and the crossover to all speakers to 80hz. LPF to LFE is set to 120Hz ( can be set as high as 250Hz, didn't mess with that)

Did I miss configure something?
After running audyssey what is the sub volume at on the Denon? I have my Ultra volume at -15 and after audyssey my Denon set it to -9. It wasn't loud enough for me so I went to -3 so running 6db's hot.

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post #23774 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by SodomySquirrel View Post
OK-

So I finally setup my sub and ran Audyssey. Never done any type of setup like this so still learning here...

Per SVS manual, I set the vol to -20dB when running Audyssy. Hooked it up to the right LFE input.

When I ran Audyssey, said vol was too low and made me set it to -11dB.

Now I feel like I'm missing out on bass, tried turning the VOL(gain?) up on the sub, but still don't get that "oomf" I'd thought I'd get by adding this massive sub (ran my setup without a bass for awhile)

I changed my fronts to small and the crossover to all speakers to 80hz. LPF to LFE is set to 120Hz ( can be set as high as 250Hz, didn't mess with that)

Did I miss configure something?
Hi,

I haven't found a lot of correlation in my room, with my subs, between the SVS recommended gain setting and the actual one. Both position in the room, and distance from the MLP, can be factors in the amount of gain required. What sub are you using, and did you do a sub crawl to try to find the best location for your sub?

As noted, you may be sitting in a null. But it's also entirely possible that you just need to add trim post-Audyssey. People typically find that they need to add 3 to 6db of trim to their sub(s) after running an Audyssey calibration, and some add even more. What was your post-calibration trim setting in your sub, and have you tried increasing it?

The answer to the questions in both paragraphs will help to resolve things.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #23775 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
Call SVS.
Yup. SVS confirms my PB13 the BASH amp is almost certainly dead, and that I will need a replacement.

Now I'm waiting for pricing from the Canadian distributor for the Sledge. SVS indicated they no longer have the BASH.

However, has anyone here from Toronto successfully repaired a BASH through a 3rd party repair shop?

BTW, SVS says Sonavox made the BASH amps. Sonavox was bought by Indigo, but Indigo refuses to release the design schematics, which I would imagine would make repairs difficult.

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post #23776 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by BuGsArEtAsTy View Post
Yup. SVS confirms my PB13 the BASH amp is almost certainly dead, and that I will need a replacement.

Now I'm waiting for pricing from the Canadian distributor for the Sledge. SVS indicated they no longer have the BASH.

However, has anyone here from Toronto successfully repaired a BASH through a 3rd party repair shop?

Hi,

I can't tell you anything about repairing Bash amps. But I do remember when SVS went from Bash amps to Sledge amps. They mentioned at the time that the Sledge amps were more reliable, and I haven't heard anything to contradict that. Unless the cost of the new Sledge amp is exorbitant, I would be very inclined to go with SVS's newest and best amp.

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #23777 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 08:46 AM
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I can't tell you anything about repairing Bash amps. But I do remember when SVS went from Bash amps to Sledge amps. They mentioned at the time that the Sledge amps were more reliable, and I haven't heard anything to contradict that. Unless the cost of the new Sledge amp is exorbitant, I would be very inclined to go with SVS's newest and best amp.
I think in the past SVS was selling the amps for $600 US, which up here probably means closer to CAD$800. If that's the case I will have to think about getting the old one repaired. If it's less than that, then I'd be more willing to just buy a new one.

BTW, I was almost tempted to just sell the PB13-Ultra and buy some physically smaller SVS subs, just because with my current arrangment, the PB13-Ultra doesn't fit very well. It's huge!
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post #23778 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 08:47 AM
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My replacement amp was 6.

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post #23779 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 08:50 AM
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My replacement amp was 6.
Thx. $600 US you mean? For the PB13-Ultra?
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post #23780 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 08:54 AM
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Thx. $600 US you mean? For the PB13-Ultra?
US. Sledge. PC13.

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post #23781 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 09:44 AM
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I think in the past SVS was selling the amps for $600 US, which up here probably means closer to CAD$800. If that's the case I will have to think about getting the old one repaired. If it's less than that, then I'd be more willing to just buy a new one.

BTW, I was almost tempted to just sell the PB13-Ultra and buy some physically smaller SVS subs, just because with my current arrangment, the PB13-Ultra doesn't fit very well. It's huge!

I understand. That's a lot! The PB-13 is definitely a big boy. Unfortunately, from everything I have seen, performance and size are closely related. Since Mongo mentioned the PC-13, I wonder whether some sort of swap would be possible. Send your PB back to SVS as an exchange for a new PC-13 with it's smaller footprint. Shipping might kill you, but there might be some way to work out something along that line, if the combination of large form and new amp are both factors under consideration.

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #23782 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by BuGsArEtAsTy View Post
I think in the past SVS was selling the amps for $600 US, which up here probably means closer to CAD$800. If that's the case I will have to think about getting the old one repaired. If it's less than that, then I'd be more willing to just buy a new one.

BTW, I was almost tempted to just sell the PB13-Ultra and buy some physically smaller SVS subs, just because with my current arrangment, the PB13-Ultra doesn't fit very well. It's huge!
If space is an issue, I'll echo the above comments to look at the PC-13 Ultra. It has the extra advantage that is can be laid on it's side. In my case, the only way I was going to fit an Ultra into my room was with the PC version.

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post #23783 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 11:42 AM
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Back in the day, I actually had the PC-1000, their first cylinder sub. However, I wasn't all that impressed with it. Nice deep bass, but not very musical. I ended up selling it years later and got the PB13-Ultra. The PC13-Ultra didn't exist at the time, but I've read some online comments from people comparing the PB13-Ultra to the PC13-Ultra, and it seems most prefer the PB13-Ultra. So, I'm a little apprehensive to get rid of the thing even though it takes up so much room.

I used to have the PB13-Ultra in the centre, with the centre channel speaker sitting on top of that. The problem with that setup though is that it raised the centre channel speaker up higher than I wanted it. This was many years ago:



I've since bought a component stand that is about 19.5" tall and put the centre channel on that, so that lowers the height by about 4", which is ergonomically better since the bottom of the screen still needs to be above that. This is now, with the PB13-Ultra on the right in front of that closet:



I think what I'll do is wait for pricing and then either get the amp fixed (if even possible) or else get a new amp. Then I'll play with the sub and Audyssey settings to see if I can get the thing dialed in. If I can't, then I'll consider moving PB13-Ultra back to where it was, and just live with the added height of the centre channel, or else rejig things with yet another component stand. Note if I did have to increase the centre channel height again, this actually may be OK for the second row, since I've recently just built a 9" riser for the second row. That doesn't solve my problem with the front row though. I have reclining seats there, but it's still not ideal.

The front firing PB13-Ultra did work well pointed at us from the centre. In the new configuration the PB13-Ultra is in a corner in front of a closet, very close to the front row and pointed to the right edge of the seating, so not ideal. However, then again I haven't been able to test it to see how badly the sound is affected, since the amp is dead of course.
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post #23784 of 31562 Old 05-03-2016, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuGsArEtAsTy View Post
Back in the day, I actually had the PC-1000, their first cylinder sub. However, I wasn't all that impressed with it. Nice deep bass, but not very musical. I ended up selling it years later and got the PB13-Ultra. The PC13-Ultra didn't exist at the time, but I've read some online comments from people comparing the PB13-Ultra to the PC13-Ultra, and it seems most prefer the PB13-Ultra. So, I'm a little apprehensive to get rid of the thing even though it takes up so much room.

I used to have the PB13-Ultra in the centre, with the centre channel speaker sitting on top of that. The problem with that setup though is that it raised the centre channel speaker up higher than I wanted it. This was many years ago:



I've since bought a component stand that is about 19.5" tall and put the centre channel on that, so that lowers the height by about 4", which is ergonomically better since the bottom of the screen still needs to be above that. This is now, with the PB13-Ultra on the right in front of that closet:



I think what I'll do is wait for pricing and then either get the amp fixed (if even possible) or else get a new amp. Then I'll play with the sub and Audyssey settings to see if I can get the thing dialed in. If I can't, then I'll consider moving PB13-Ultra back to where it was, and just live with the added height of the centre channel, or else rejig things with yet another component stand. Note if I did have to increase the centre channel height again, this actually may be OK for the second row, since I've recently just built a 9" riser for the second row. That doesn't solve my problem with the front row though. I have reclining seats there, but it's still not ideal.

The front firing PB13-Ultra did work well pointed at us from the centre. In the new configuration the PB13-Ultra is in a corner in front of a closet, very close to the front row and pointed to the right edge of the seating, so not ideal. However, then again I haven't been able to test it to see how badly the sound is affected, since the amp is dead of course.
I shouldn't matter that the sub is to the side, since LFE isn't directional. I have my PC12 + subs behind us. Doesn't make a bit of difference.
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post #23785 of 31562 Old 05-04-2016, 09:25 AM
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I bought some new speakers a couple months ago, all Klipsch Reference Premier speakers for a 7.2.4 setup, and I've not been happy at all with my bass. The subs I'm currently using are Klipsch SW-112, which don't even sound as good as my old Mirage subwoofer with 2 10" drivers in an isobaric enclosure.

So, I started looking at subs, and I read a lot of good things about the PB-13 Ultra. I asked for some advice in another thread, and everyone had a different opinion and would recommend a different brand saying that I could get more for my money with a PSA or HSU, etc, but after spending another few days researching these other brands, I still decided to go with the PB-13 Ultra in piano black. Since every sub I looked at was quite large, I wanted to at least get something with a nice finish since it's obviously going to be difficult to hide.

I hope I made the right decision, and I hope the PB-13 Ultra will give me the deep rumbling bass you can not only hear but feel as well. One thing that sucks is that I'm also stuck with these 2 other subs. They're not horrible, they just don't produce the deep bass that I'm used to, which leads me into my question.

When I get my PB-13 Ultra, can I hook it up to one of my sub outs on my receiver and keep these other 2 hooked up to my other sub out with a Y splitter or should I only use the PB-13 Ultra? Even though I'm not really satisfied with these 2 subs, I don't have the original boxes they came in, which would make it difficult for me to sell, and even though I'm not happy with them, I think they would probably sound better with the PB-13 Ultra since the PB-13 will give me the lower bass and power I'm missing. These subs would probably help produce more bass, but it would probably be in the 40/50Hz to 100Hz range. Could I hook all of them up together or should I just rely on the PB-13 and get rid of these other 2?

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post #23786 of 31562 Old 05-04-2016, 09:28 AM
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I shouldn't matter that the sub is to the side, since LFE isn't directional. I have my PC12 + subs behind us. Doesn't make a bit of difference.
I've found I can localize the sub with an 80 Hz crossover. That said, IIRC that was in a different room.
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post #23787 of 31562 Old 05-04-2016, 09:29 AM
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Well, I've just joined your ranks as an SVS owner. (Well, it's on order anywa....) SB13 Ultra. I believe this is most likely overkill for my situation. Placement for me is unfortunately somewhat constrained, but I hope it will work in the location I intend and performs well. I much as I wanted a JL Audio sub, I just couldn't "Fathom" spending that kind of money at this point. Like the Made in USA part, the look and the control placement, but not the price.

I know it's a bit insane, bit I had an electrician just install two additional 20A circuits in my dwelling - one for an amp (that's rady and connected) and the other circuit is tied off until I can figure out a good place for the sub - fingers crossed - I find a good location using my crappy existing outlets and a really long XLR cable - then the elctrician will come back and drop the second circuit to a new outlet and I'll run in-wall cable to it. At least that's the plan! I know two subs would likely be better than one in my challenging space, but I'm hoping I am satisified with the one - my available space and wallet will thank me.

Wish me luck! I'm sure I'll be bugging you all for info in the near future, so many thanks in advance.
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post #23788 of 31562 Old 05-04-2016, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by rolldog View Post
I bought some new speakers a couple months ago, all Klipsch Reference Premier speakers for a 7.2.4 setup, and I've not been happy at all with my bass. The subs I'm currently using are Klipsch SW-112, which don't even sound as good as my old Mirage subwoofer with 2 10" drivers in an isobaric enclosure.

So, I started looking at subs, and I read a lot of good things about the PB-13 Ultra. I asked for some advice in another thread, and everyone had a different opinion and would recommend a different brand saying that I could get more for my money with a PSA or HSU, etc, but after spending another few days researching these other brands, I still decided to go with the PB-13 Ultra in piano black. Since every sub I looked at was quite large, I wanted to at least get something with a nice finish since it's obviously going to be difficult to hide.

I hope I made the right decision, and I hope the PB-13 Ultra will give me the deep rumbling bass you can not only hear but feel as well. One thing that sucks is that I'm also stuck with these 2 other subs. They're not horrible, they just don't produce the deep bass that I'm used to, which leads me into my question.

When I get my PB-13 Ultra, can I hook it up to one of my sub outs on my receiver and keep these other 2 hooked up to my other sub out with a Y splitter or should I only use the PB-13 Ultra? Even though I'm not really satisfied with these 2 subs, I don't have the original boxes they came in, which would make it difficult for me to sell, and even though I'm not happy with them, I think they would probably sound better with the PB-13 Ultra since the PB-13 will give me the lower bass and power I'm missing. These subs would probably help produce more bass, but it would probably be in the 40/50Hz to 100Hz range. Could I hook all of them up together or should I just rely on the PB-13 and get rid of these other 2?

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Hi,

Outstanding! Out of a sense of fairness, I was one of the people advising you to look at other subs before deciding, but I'm glad that you went with the PB-13. Looks matter to me too, and I think that the Ultra in piano black, with the metal grille, is a winner. And I definitely do think it will give you the deep bass that you can both hear and feel.

That's the good news. The bad news is that you should probably just get rid of the Klipsch subs, original boxes or not. Perhaps you can find someone in your community who wants them (Craigslist, maybe) and avoid shipping. If not, there are places where you can get large boxes.

If you combine the weaker subs with your much more powerful Ultra, you will either hold back the Ultra, or risk distorting/damaging the Klipsch subs, or both. Audyssey, for instance, will only set filters to the F3 point of the lesser sub, and then will EQ the subs as one, even with XT-32 and two sub inputs. So, if the Ultra has an in-room F3 of 10 or 11Hz, which is very possible with one port plugged, and the Klipsch subs have an in-room F3 of about 25Hz, then there will be a large gap of more than an octave where you have no EQ at all. And then when you try to crank up your subs, particularly with something like DEQ engaged, you will risk distorting the sound, or damaging the Klipsch subs, as they are unable to keep up. People do use lesser subs in conjunction with more powerful ones, but it takes some effort (with measurements and something like a miniDSP) to make it work well.

I would just enjoy the Ultra, and depending on how things work out, look forward to the time when I could add a second one.

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

Last edited by mthomas47; 05-04-2016 at 10:27 AM.
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post #23789 of 31562 Old 05-04-2016, 10:24 AM
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Finally my PB 1000 was delivered today... cant wait to try it out

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post #23790 of 31562 Old 05-04-2016, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
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Well, I've just joined your ranks as an SVS owner. (Well, it's on order anywa....) SB13 Ultra. I believe this is most likely overkill for my situation. Placement for me is unfortunately somewhat constrained, but I hope it will work in the location I intend and performs well. I much as I wanted a JL Audio sub, I just couldn't "Fathom" spending that kind of money at this point. Like the Made in USA part, the look and the control placement, but not the price.

I know it's a bit insane, bit I had an electrician just install two additional 20A circuits in my dwelling - one for an amp (that's rady and connected) and the other circuit is tied off until I can figure out a good place for the sub - fingers crossed - I find a good location using my crappy existing outlets and a really long XLR cable - then the elctrician will come back and drop the second circuit to a new outlet and I'll run in-wall cable to it. At least that's the plan! I know two subs would likely be better than one in my challenging space, but I'm hoping I am satisified with the one - my available space and wallet will thank me.

Wish me luck! I'm sure I'll be bugging you all for info in the near future, so many thanks in advance.
When it comes to subwoofers ( and lots of other things in home theater ), there is no such thing as " overkill " ( says the guy with twin PC12 + subs ).
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