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post #24151 of 31450 Old 06-13-2016, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
Yeah, and given that I'm also having issues with hum and buzz in my other speakers (without the sub even part of the equation) I might be very overly sensitized to the whole issue at this point!
If you are getting that from all your electronics then it is either the wiring in your house or the current running to your house.

Ive got some stuff
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post #24152 of 31450 Old 06-14-2016, 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
Yep! Still hisses with just the sub connected to power and powered on. This is the new amp, that I replaced courtesy of SVS sending recently as the original one was DOA new. It made a ticking sound, don't recall if it hissed at all. The tick was definitely what I was focused on.

Connecting to the AVR *barely* changes this if at all, you can hear the AVR connecting, little bit of a tiny pop and might add the tiniest amount of additional background noise, but that might be psychological.


I would not be connecting or disconnecting any wires or cables while any equipment is powered on.


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post #24153 of 31450 Old 06-14-2016, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by phannon View Post
Jonas2:

Last spring I purchased an SB-2000 and
soon heard a hiss that seems to be similar to what you hear. I could hear it from about 3-4 metres away. If I turned the sub away from the listening position, it was barely noticable, but you could hear it somewhat. I could make the hiss disappear for a while by unplugging / re-plugging the power or just removing the RCA cable and re-seating it. I contacted SVS by e-mail, and sent along an MP3 recording of the hiss. We tried a number of things......Y adapters, new cables, but the hiss would return, usually within a few hours. They sent a replacement amp.......I installed it and not a bit of hiss! I do not think you should be able to hear the hiss at a distance of more than 20 cm or so...

Hope this helps.......By the way, the SVS service guys were great and very helpful in tracking down the problem.

Cheers,
phannon


And that's about right - I don't hear the hiss beyond 8-10 inches, which is about 20cm or less, so I think this is O.K. No chance in Hades of hearing it at MLP!

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Originally Posted by baron2 View Post
If you are getting that from all your electronics then it is either the wiring in your house or the current running to your house.
Well, that's the thing - I don't get this form any other electronics - no other audio devices in the home are affected, even ones using the same circuit. Though not apples to apples either......not to mention, the system (stereo) has worked properly in the past, so I must identify what has gone south. That is the current challenge.

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Originally Posted by bear123 View Post
I would not be connecting or disconnecting any wires or cables while any equipment is powered on.
Oh, I don't! Power, interconnects, speaker cables - these are always plugged in prior to powering on the amp or pre-amp, or sub. The noise I was referring to is upon powering the pre-amp with everything in place, not connecting live.
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post #24154 of 31450 Old 06-15-2016, 03:35 PM
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So i bought a used SVS pb13 ultra off craigslist and after today it is officially in hand, $1k later...Apparently I had no idea what I was getting into when I went to go pick it up lol. Luckily I was able to fit it in front seat as it didn't fit in trunk and almost had to leave the gf behind but she fit in trunk so wasn't a complete loss...

It does have 2 switches that appear to be broken or at least messed up. He said they still work but they were smashed when he first bought it and was trying to bring the beast into his room to setup. Switches are marked "input level" and "power mode" and they seem to also spin which is not good. So say if it's flipped to right, I could just spin it so it looks to be flipped to left and vice versa. What should these be set to and is there a way I can tell which it actually is set to incase it's spun around?

This is my first real surround sound setup besides one of those onkyo all-in-one box 5.1 setups from 10 years ago, so I have a nice size job set out in front of me
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post #24155 of 31450 Old 06-15-2016, 03:51 PM
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^^^

What? No pics of the girlfriend in the trunk??

That's a shame.


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post #24156 of 31450 Old 06-16-2016, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokeyla1 View Post
So i bought a used SVS pb13 ultra off craigslist and after today it is officially in hand, $1k later...Apparently I had no idea what I was getting into when I went to go pick it up lol. Luckily I was able to fit it in front seat as it didn't fit in trunk and almost had to leave the gf behind but she fit in trunk so wasn't a complete loss...

It does have 2 switches that appear to be broken or at least messed up. He said they still work but they were smashed when he first bought it and was trying to bring the beast into his room to setup. Switches are marked "input level" and "power mode" and they seem to also spin which is not good. So say if it's flipped to right, I could just spin it so it looks to be flipped to left and vice versa. What should these be set to and is there a way I can tell which it actually is set to incase it's spun around?

This is my first real surround sound setup besides one of those onkyo all-in-one box 5.1 setups from 10 years ago, so I have a nice size job set out in front of me
Hi,

The Ultra's are beasts, aren't they? I would send the picture of the broken switches to SVS and seek their advice. If you have any DIY skills, they might be able to send you a couple of replacement switches that you could attach. Otherwise, a friend with some knowledge of electronics might be able to help you. They can also explain what the switches do, and what the practical effects would be to leave them as they are. Good luck with it! I think you will be very impressed once you get it set-up.

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #24157 of 31450 Old 06-16-2016, 01:30 PM
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I am still very happy with my pb13 ultra dsp my neighbours not so, though
You should be carefull with those switches. The "Input level" knob is just for setting the input gain and you will hear it when it is low or high level.
the other switch is for setting the mode of the sub. this one is more dangerous as it sets the port mode for the sub. i.e. if you have 1 port (the holes below the woofer) plugged then it requires the 16hz setting. 3 ports open and having the knob set to "sealed" mode is the most demolishing as it makes the sub go to the max. I wouldnt touch it if they where set allready when you got the sub.
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post #24158 of 31450 Old 06-16-2016, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by DaJoJo View Post
I am still very happy with my pb13 ultra dsp my neighbours not so, though
You should be carefull with those switches. The "Input level" knob is just for setting the input gain and you will hear it when it is low or high level.
the other switch is for setting the mode of the sub. this one is more dangerous as it sets the port mode for the sub. i.e. if you have 1 port (the holes below the woofer) plugged then it requires the 16hz setting. 3 ports open and having the knob set to "sealed" mode is the most demolishing as it makes the sub go to the max. I wouldnt touch it if they where set allready when you got the sub.

From the picture, the second damaged switch is the Power Mode: On/Off/Auto. The Feature Mode is the round knob at the top which controls the volume, tuning mode, and EQ. Fortunately, that one appears to be undamaged. But I would get the two damaged ones fixed regardless.

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #24159 of 31450 Old 06-16-2016, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
From the picture, the second damaged switch is the Power Mode: On/Off/Auto. The Feature Mode is the round knob at the top which controls the volume, tuning mode, and EQ. Fortunately, that one appears to be undamaged. But I would get the two damaged ones fixed regardless.
ah ok , so you have the DSP version. then its not a problem so much. its easy to find out what setting the power mode is , it either stays on or goes off with no sound input. if it works it works.
edit : pics just did appear, didnt see them before :/ so yeah that would be difficult to fix. soldering some new switches is not that easy and the other option is to send the amp plate to svs. if it is of any help : bottom one is up and top one is down for auto and lfe input

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post #24160 of 31450 Old 06-16-2016, 02:56 PM
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Quick question about the Tune setup for the PB12-Plus subwoofer with 800 watts amp (latest model).

When you setup for movies, do you set the Tune to Sealed Mode, 20Hz Mode or 16Hz Mode?

When I listen to 2 channel music, I think setting it to Sealed Mode sounds the best for me. Much tighter bass. But for movies, I can not decide which sounds better, 20Hz Mode or 16Hz Mode.

Thanks for any advice!
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post #24161 of 31450 Old 06-16-2016, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mantaraydesign View Post
Quick question about the Tune setup for the PB12-Plus subwoofer with 800 watts amp (latest model).

When you setup for movies, do you set the Tune to Sealed Mode, 20Hz Mode or 16Hz Mode?

When I listen to 2 channel music, I think setting it to Sealed Mode sounds the best for me. Much tighter bass. But for movies, I can not decide which sounds better, 20Hz Mode or 16Hz Mode.

Thanks for any advice!
Hi,

I think that SVS recommends using the lower port tune for movies/TV. That's what I have always used--might as well get the maximum benefit of the low-end extension. In comparing the graphs and Data-Bass numbers, I have never seen any practical advantage to the higher 20Hz port tune.

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #24162 of 31450 Old 06-16-2016, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

I think that SVS recommends using the lower port tune for movies/TV. That's what I have always used--might as well get the maximum benefit of the low-end extension. In comparing the graphs and Data-Bass numbers, I have never seen any practical advantage to the higher 20Hz port tune.

Regards,
Mike

Thanks!
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post #24163 of 31450 Old 06-16-2016, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mantaraydesign View Post
Quick question about the Tune setup for the PB12-Plus subwoofer with 800 watts amp (latest model).
When you setup for movies, do you set the Tune to Sealed Mode, 20Hz Mode or 16Hz Mode?
When I listen to 2 channel music, I think setting it to Sealed Mode sounds the best for me. Much tighter bass. But for movies, I can not decide which sounds better, 20Hz Mode or 16Hz Mode.
Thanks for any advice!
20hz mode is more level and has more output on the 20hz then the 16hz does. not much movies have that extreme low bass. its not really handy to change the port plugs all the time, but if you don't have a problem with that then 16hz mode for atmos stuff and 20hz for the rest of the movies besides these that are in the list of heavy bass movies. i've been using 16hz mode for a while now for everything, but i somehow tend to go to 20hz mode for the "normal" sound movies as it has better/more low output. you have to decide yourself as it is more a personal thing, but i guess it also depends on how big the room is and how many of the movies you watch are with a lot of explosions and stuff. if you watch only drama movies i would leave it at sealed personally.
if you really want it to sound at its best and as intended you have to equalize the thing and most amps don't have 3 presets for eq. mine has 2 presets for eq and so sealed and either 16hz or 20hz is an option for me . unless you like to run audessey or similar every time or don't bother bout it. so yeah like mthomas47 says it would be more beneficial to tune it to 16hz since its there anyways and set the whole eq stuff accordingly.

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post #24164 of 31450 Old 06-16-2016, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaJoJo View Post
20hz mode is more level and has more output on the 20hz then the 16hz does. not much movies have that extreme low bass. its not really handy to change the port plugs all the time, but if you don't have a problem with that then 16hz mode for atmos stuff and 20hz for the rest of the movies besides these that are in the list of heavy bass movies. i've been using 16hz mode for a while now for everything, but i somehow tend to go to 20hz mode for the "normal" sound movies as it has better/more low output. you have to decide yourself as it is more a personal thing, but i guess it also depends on how big the room is and how many of the movies you watch are with a lot of explosions and stuff. if you watch only drama movies i would leave it at sealed personally.
if you really want it to sound at its best and as intended you have to equalize the thing and most amps don't have 3 presets for eq. mine has 2 presets for eq and so sealed and either 16hz or 20hz is an option for me . unless you like to run audessey or similar every time or don't bother bout it. so yeah like mthomas47 says it would be more beneficial to tune it to 16hz since its there anyways and set the whole eq stuff accordingly.
Great advice!
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post #24165 of 31450 Old 06-18-2016, 06:39 PM
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Looking for feedback on the SVS 2000 Round Subwoofer.

The good The bad and The ugly (although it looks pretty nice)!

Thanks
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post #24166 of 31450 Old 06-19-2016, 01:36 AM
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Looking for feedback on the SVS 2000 Round Subwoofer.

The good The bad and The ugly (although it looks pretty nice)!

Thanks
Err... round? PC2000? Be specific man.
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post #24167 of 31450 Old 06-19-2016, 02:43 AM
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Looking for feedback on the SVS 2000 Round Subwoofer.

The good The bad and The ugly (although it looks pretty nice)!

Thanks
Round one is nice. Buy it.
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post #24168 of 31450 Old 06-19-2016, 05:36 AM
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Fuzzy water heater? Nice!
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post #24169 of 31450 Old 06-19-2016, 05:47 AM
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I personally like the looks of the cylinder. It was partly the unique look of the cylinder that got me interested in SVS to begin with. To be fair, I like the boxes too. But the cylinder also fits nicely into spaces that would be difficult to put a large box. And that small footprint can be a real advantage sometimes.
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #24170 of 31450 Old 06-19-2016, 06:47 AM
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I'll point out that the cylinders can also be placed on their sides. For me personally, that flexibility was necessary to get my subs to the ideal spot for the best response.
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post #24171 of 31450 Old 06-21-2016, 02:22 PM
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i wanted to place my sub straight up facing the ceiling,, still looking for a good bodybuilder though.
but yeah round looks nice and you could even hang it on the ceiling

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post #24172 of 31450 Old 06-21-2016, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zortronx View Post
Looking for feedback on the SVS 2000 Round Subwoofer.

The good The bad and The ugly (although it looks pretty nice)!

Thanks
The cylinder subs are a great option. The new model PC-2000 material isn't nearly as "fuzzy" as the older models. The PC-2000 also has the SVS isolation feet already installed, which is a nice bonus. They are easier to move around and easier to place than their boxed counterparts.
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post #24173 of 31450 Old 06-21-2016, 06:55 PM
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I have the PC2000. It sounds very good.
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post #24174 of 31450 Old 06-22-2016, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
I personally like the looks of the cylinder. It was partly the unique look of the cylinder that got me interested in SVS to begin with. To be fair, I like the boxes too. But the cylinder also fits nicely into spaces that would be difficult to put a large box. And that small footprint can be a real advantage sometimes.
Same here, plus the fact that SVS's cylinder subs really put out the LFE. A case in point was watching Prometheus last night - my twin PC12 Plus subs had my guests looking over at times grinning ear to ear ! There are some room shaking scenes in that movie for sure !!!

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post #24175 of 31450 Old 06-23-2016, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIX_MASTER_ICE View Post
The cylinder subs are a great option. The new model PC-2000 material isn't nearly as "fuzzy" as the older models. The PC-2000 also has the SVS isolation feet already installed, which is a nice bonus. They are easier to move around and easier to place than their boxed counterparts.
I have the older,made in USA 20-39pc and the PC2000 .The PC2000 does a fine job of tight bass and the Isolation Feet are a nice add on, but, the older 20-39PC ain't no slouch either.Another bonus,besides the small foot print, is they are unique to most folks.None of my friends have ever seen one so that is kinda cool.I still have time to upgrade my SB12-NSD if I want to go for an all cylinder sub set up.
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post #24176 of 31450 Old 06-23-2016, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Axememan View Post
I have the older,made in USA 20-39pc and the PC2000 .The PC2000 does a fine job of tight bass and the Isolation Feet are a nice add on, but, the older 20-39PC ain't no slouch either.Another bonus,besides the small foot print, is they are unique to most folks.None of my friends have ever seen one so that is kinda cool.I still have time to upgrade my SB12-NSD if I want to go for an all cylinder sub set up.
I'm in agreement with everyone's assessment of the SVS cylinders. I had a pair of the 20-39PC's as well before moving on to the box versions for different reasons...not performance reasons. You will not be disappointed in the performance of SVS cylinders!
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Last edited by gene4ht; 06-23-2016 at 07:34 PM. Reason: typo
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post #24177 of 31450 Old 06-23-2016, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Axememan View Post
I have the older,made in USA 20-39pc and the PC2000 .The PC2000 does a fine job of tight bass and the Isolation Feet are a nice add on, but, the older 20-39PC ain't no slouch either.Another bonus,besides the small foot print, is they are unique to most folks.None of my friends have ever seen one so that is kinda cool.I still have time to upgrade my SB12-NSD if I want to go for an all cylinder sub set up.
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Originally Posted by gene4ht View Post
I'm in agreement with everyone's assessment of the SVS cylinders. I had a pair of the 20-29PC's as well before moving on to the box versions for different reasons...not performance reasons. You will not be disappointed in the performance of SVS cylinders!
I Agree another SVS Cylinder fan right here !!!
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post #24178 of 31450 Old 06-25-2016, 02:47 AM
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Originally Posted by phannon View Post
Last spring I purchased an SB-2000 and soon heard a hiss that seems to be similar to what you hear. I could hear it from about 3-4 metres away. If I turned the sub away from the listening position, it was barely noticable, but you could hear it somewhat. I could make the hiss disappear for a while by unplugging / re-plugging the power or just removing the RCA cable and re-seating it.
I also have this hissing problem with SB-2000 subwoofers. I have two of them, bought them last summer. Both have the problem. SVS has already once changed both amps, but the problem remained. They did (or said so) investigate my old amps and said that they could not hear the hissing.

My subs are not always mains powered, I switch their AC on via preamp controlled relay. And after power-up, sometimes one of them is hissing, sometimes both are hissing and usually both are silent. Disconnecting AC power and waiting few seconds fixes the hissing, sometimes it takes 2-3 tries. I can also make the subs hissing just by switching AC on and off few times, it usually just takes 3-4 tries and the hissing is there. And it makes no difference if they are connected to my preamp and where subs are located, I have also tried different AC sockets. AC line is clean, I have verified that with an oscilloscope.

Since SVS did not hear the hissing, they keep blaiming my system or my AC power lines for this. But this clearly is a problem with their amplifier (or DSP-chip) circuit.

Not sure what to do, since they don't admit the problem and I'm tired of switching amps and finding that the same problem is still there. If this really was fixed, there should be a different revision boards available.
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post #24179 of 31450 Old 06-25-2016, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by TimoJ View Post
they keep blaiming my system or my AC power lines for this.
Sounds to me like theres a very good chance theyre right.
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post #24180 of 31450 Old 06-25-2016, 03:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
Sounds to me like theres a very good chance theyre right.
Why? What is the mystery signal in my AC lines that could cause this? I have also tried AC filters, no help.
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