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post #27121 of 31287 Old 01-21-2018, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jcp2 View Post
You should use your amp's calibration software and you want your trim level on the amp to be -5, -6 not -12 after calibration. Then, you can either adjust the volume at the sub, or at the trim level on the amp. Do not go above 0 for trim level on the amp.
I did do that. My Ypao setting is at -6db with the PB4000 volume level at - 10db. I like more bass so I bumped the sub volume to -6 or - 5 (4 to 5 dB hot). The -12db was my receivers volume lvl while watching the movie.

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post #27122 of 31287 Old 01-21-2018, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by lag1791 View Post
I did do that. My Ypao setting is at -6db with the PB4000 volume level at - 10db. I like more bass so I bumped the sub volume to -6 or - 5 (4 to 5 dB hot). The -12db was my receivers volume lvl while watching the movie.

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My bad. I read your post as 5db hot on the sub and 12db on trim level and not volume level. just trying to help.
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post #27123 of 31287 Old 01-22-2018, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by rvarneyy View Post
Hey Mike,

Thanks for chiming in!

I'm the kind of person that can't wait to connect the new sub to the LFE port, re-run my Yamaha auto-calibration, and never touch the sub again until I have to vacuum in that corner. :P This is not to say that I don't care about being anal when it comes to quality sound. I do actually like a very nice audio room (heck, my mains ARE Vienna Acoustics). But these days I just want to pop in a reference quality blu-ray disc, press the "play" button, and then relax & enjoy.

That aside, the problem I have is space. While the SB2000 (or the F12) will be an easy swap for me (without the grill installed), the additional 5.5" depth on the SB4000 will literally force me to re-design my living room. This would involve relocating my wife's computer (laptop) desk to the basement...which ain't ever happening (instant major WAF issue). Or, alternatively, the desk can stay, but then I have to change my sectional couch design (also a WAF issue, to say nothing about the additional costs on TOP of the SB4000 price difference over the SB2000). Heck, even my DOG would be affected by this change, as her round oval bed currently sits nicely on the chaise lounger part of the sectional, which would have to be removed for a little more bass. I couldn't do that to her. :P

That being said, I think I may start with the SB2000, as that literally is the "safest" route to take. :P Oh, and if this sub is in fact an upgrade to the Rel T2 (as Magellan suggested), I have a feeling I will be more than pleased with the results.
Really, don't worry too much. The SB2000 is a capable sub for its size. Of course you have to keep your expectations in check, it's not going to tear the paint off your walls and it's not going give you a spine rupture. But I'm sure that the SB2000, placed well is going to put a smile on your face regardless.
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post #27124 of 31287 Old 01-22-2018, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Ben Tan View Post
Really, don't worry too much. The SB2000 is a capable sub for its size. Of course you have to keep your expectations in check, it's not going to tear the paint off your walls and it's not going give you a spine rupture. But I'm sure that the SB2000, placed well is going to put a smile on your face regardless.
I like how "spine ruptures" are a good thing when it comes to subs.

Thanks for the feedback!
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post #27125 of 31287 Old 01-22-2018, 09:28 AM
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So I ordered the SB2000 today direct from SVS. Thank you all for the information.

So far, their customer service has exceeded my expectations. The rep not only provided me with initial setup instructions, but he also provided specific recommendations based on the AVR and the other system speakers that I will be running the sub with. Seems like a class act of an organization.
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post #27126 of 31287 Old 01-22-2018, 02:27 PM
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A small update on my 2X PB-2000 purchase! Not off a great start unfortunately. Once I got them home, I unpacked the first one and found 2 white scratch marks along the side of the cabinet. At this stage I just tried a bit of spit and to rub it but it didn't come off. Any tips on what I could try? After being puzzled that I couldn't find the power cable, I finally found it under the bottom cardboard layer but to my surprise it was a USA cable! (I'm in Australia). I checked everywhere but definitely only the one 2 pronged cable. I quickly opened the 2nd one to find it was exactly the same, shipped with the wrong cable (no scratches though!).


Luckily I had 1 USA-AUS adapter handy (from a guitar pedal) so I could at least set one of them up. I put this in FL corner to replace my old sub - only JUST fit....this thing is a beast!


I've just connected my Onkyo AVR up and at this stage haven't bothered with Audyssey, thought I'd wait to receive the replacement cables and set the 2nd one up first. With the volume @12, phase 0 and crossover on LFE it's sounding pretty nice!

I watched the intro to Ghost in the machine and this sub is on a whole other level compared to my old one!


I've been playing around with Dynamic EQ/Volume a bit due to having a 12m old and only having night time to listen - definitely a bit boomy but it's giving me an idea of what these are capable of!


Hopefully the power cables arrive soon and I can get the 2nd one up and running!
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post #27127 of 31287 Old 01-22-2018, 05:29 PM
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I need some advice on choosing 2 sealed SB-2000’s or 2 Ported PB-2000’s based on my theater layout. The primary purpose is for movies. My theater/media room is in my finished basement, but the room is an open space. Here are some images:





The front area is well contained with three walls but the rear is wide open. The plan is to put them under the screen in the from. Overall, the media area isn’t very large, but with open space I’m not sure if ported or sealed would make a better selection.

Thanks
Matt




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post #27128 of 31287 Old 01-22-2018, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrb222 View Post
I need some advice on choosing 2 sealed SB-2000’s or 2 Ported PB-2000’s based on my theater layout. The primary purpose is for movies. My theater/media room is in my finished basement, but the room is an open space. Here are some images:

The front area is well contained with three walls but the rear is wide open. The plan is to put them under the screen in the from. Overall, the media area isn’t very large, but with open space I’m not sure if ported or sealed would make a better selection.
For movies...without a doubt...ported PB-2000’s...for the same reasons I stated for another member.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-su...l#post55520608
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post #27129 of 31287 Old 01-22-2018, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by gene4ht View Post
For movies...without a doubt...ported PB-2000’s...for the same reasons I stated for another member.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-su...l#post55520608
Second that!!
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post #27130 of 31287 Old 01-22-2018, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettmckinney View Post
A small update on my 2X PB-2000 purchase! Not off a great start unfortunately. Once I got them home, I unpacked the first one and found 2 white scratch marks along the side of the cabinet. At this stage I just tried a bit of spit and to rub it but it didn't come off. Any tips on what I could try? After being puzzled that I couldn't find the power cable, I finally found it under the bottom cardboard layer but to my surprise it was a USA cable! (I'm in Australia). I checked everywhere but definitely only the one 2 pronged cable. I quickly opened the 2nd one to find it was exactly the same, shipped with the wrong cable (no scratches though!).


Luckily I had 1 USA-AUS adapter handy (from a guitar pedal) so I could at least set one of them up. I put this in FL corner to replace my old sub - only JUST fit....this thing is a beast!


I've just connected my Onkyo AVR up and at this stage haven't bothered with Audyssey, thought I'd wait to receive the replacement cables and set the 2nd one up first. With the volume @12, phase 0 and crossover on LFE it's sounding pretty nice!

I watched the intro to Ghost in the machine and this sub is on a whole other level compared to my old one!


I've been playing around with Dynamic EQ/Volume a bit due to having a 12m old and only having night time to listen - definitely a bit boomy but it's giving me an idea of what these are capable of!


Hopefully the power cables arrive soon and I can get the 2nd one up and running!
Congrats on the arrival of your new twins! I do have a couple of comments. First...you will find that SVS customer service is exemplary. I'm sure SVS, through your dealer, will rectify to your satisfaction any blemishes you find unacceptable. Also, I would think your dealer would stock the proper a/c cord or at least provide an adapter while you're waiting. And if I'm in error and you're not working through a dealer, SVS is known to resolve customer issues in short order. As they say...."No worries mate!" Second, it's important to utilize your room correction to initially set up/integrate your speakers and sub...set distance and crossover points, and in particular the sub trim in the AVR and volume/gain on the sub properly. After running Audyssey, you can determine if you want to utilize it or not...your preference depending on your tastes and room acoustics. Some enthusiasts like Audyssey and leave it on while others turn it off. In any case, a good read and an excellent subwoofer guide has been posted by @mthomas47 at the link below...

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...l#post47140321

Note: Although Dynamic EQ and Volume can be beneficial for certain conditions, many prefer them off...something you can experiment with.

Third...the PB-2000's are definitely not boomy! Once set up properly, you'll find them extremely smooth, clean, clear, crisp, and definitive...but not boomy. You may have to wait until your 12 mo old and mom are out visiting/shopping to achieve proper tune but it will be worth it.

Again, congrats and have fun setting things up!
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post #27131 of 31287 Old 01-22-2018, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brettmckinney View Post
A small update on my 2X PB-2000 purchase! Not off a great start unfortunately. Once I got them home, I unpacked the first one and found 2 white scratch marks along the side of the cabinet. At this stage I just tried a bit of spit and to rub it but it didn't come off. Any tips on what I could try? After being puzzled that I couldn't find the power cable, I finally found it under the bottom cardboard layer but to my surprise it was a USA cable! (I'm in Australia). I checked everywhere but definitely only the one 2 pronged cable. I quickly opened the 2nd one to find it was exactly the same, shipped with the wrong cable (no scratches though!).


Luckily I had 1 USA-AUS adapter handy (from a guitar pedal) so I could at least set one of them up. I put this in FL corner to replace my old sub - only JUST fit....this thing is a beast!


I've just connected my Onkyo AVR up and at this stage haven't bothered with Audyssey, thought I'd wait to receive the replacement cables and set the 2nd one up first. With the volume @12, phase 0 and crossover on LFE it's sounding pretty nice!

I watched the intro to Ghost in the machine and this sub is on a whole other level compared to my old one!


I've been playing around with Dynamic EQ/Volume a bit due to having a 12m old and only having night time to listen - definitely a bit boomy but it's giving me an idea of what these are capable of!


Hopefully the power cables arrive soon and I can get the 2nd one up and running!
Congrats on the subs!

You could always use an old 3-pin plug from your PC.

I always keep one extra just in case.

Regarding the scratches sometimes i use a black permanent pen/marker but i just make sure the tip isn't too wide. it can do wonders.

this is the one i use.



And i am sure once you run Audyssey (all locations) the boomy sound will go away.

I usually turn Dynamic EQ and Vol off. Dynamic EQ tends to bump the lower frequency a few dbs which could cause your sub to sound boomy.



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post #27132 of 31287 Old 01-22-2018, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrb222 View Post
I need some advice on choosing 2 sealed SB-2000’s or 2 Ported PB-2000’s based on my theater layout. The primary purpose is for movies. My theater/media room is in my finished basement, but the room is an open space. Here are some images:

The front area is well contained with three walls but the rear is wide open. The plan is to put them under the screen in the from. Overall, the media area isn’t very large, but with open space I’m not sure if ported or sealed would make a better selection.

Thanks
Matt


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Dual PB2000 or dual PC2000 is going to fit very nicely in that room I believe. I personally prefer the latter though.
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post #27133 of 31287 Old 01-23-2018, 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Mrb222 View Post
I need some advice on choosing 2 sealed SB-2000’s or 2 Ported PB-2000’s based on my theater layout. The primary purpose is for movies.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Tan View Post
Dual PB2000 or dual PC2000 is going to fit very nicely in that room I believe. I personally prefer the latter though.
I would agree that Ben Tan’s PC-2000 suggestion would also be a good choice. As it is also ported, the PC -2000’s performance is very similar to the PB-2000. It appears your theater room can accommodate either form factor and just a matter of your personal taste.

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post #27134 of 31287 Old 01-23-2018, 03:22 AM
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Thanks for all the info guys, really appreciated! I found another lead to use so had a go at setting up the 2nd sub. With the little one in bed, I took the opportunity to run Audyssey setup. Just did 3 locations. Sub trim was set to -1.

I just loaded up a few tracks on Spotify to do some listening and just noticed that the blue power light is now off on sub 1. It's still working, can feel the woofer moving and can hear it but no led. I've been using the adapter on this one so turned it off, unplugged it and then tried the standard cord and when I turned it on I still get no led at all.

Any thoughts? Could I have done something wrong? I listened to some sub test tracks on Spotify but at low level (-40). Maybe the adapter?
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post #27135 of 31287 Old 01-23-2018, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Brettmckinney View Post
Thanks for all the info guys, really appreciated! I found another lead to use so had a go at setting up the 2nd sub. With the little one in bed, I took the opportunity to run Audyssey setup. Just did 3 locations. Sub trim was set to -1.

I just loaded up a few tracks on Spotify to do some listening and just noticed that the blue power light is now off on sub 1. It's still working, can feel the woofer moving and can hear it but no led. I've been using the adapter on this one so turned it off, unplugged it and then tried the standard cord and when I turned it on I still get no led at all.

Any thoughts? Could I have done something wrong? I listened to some sub test tracks on Spotify but at low level (-40). Maybe the adapter?
Have you contacted your dealer or SVS yet? At the very least, they should be aware of the sub's condition. It's typical that SVS will provide the assistance necessary to restore the LED function and also offer some form of compensation for any blemishes.. regardless if you find it acceptable or are able to rectify it yourself. This type of response is in SVS's DNA and the reason why there are so many repeat customers. The LED issue could be as simple as a disconnected internal lead/wire...which SVS could guide you into reconnecting. WRT Audyssey setting sub trim to -1, it is generally acknowledged that the target/objective is to obtain an initial trim approaching but not reaching -12 after running Audyssey for D+M AVR's...and -15 for some Onkyo AVR's (confirm in your manual). Try increasing gain on the sub to achieve trim levels approaching the -12 or -15 limit. Once achieved, most enthusiast will then increase trim manually in the AVR...typically going to -6 or even -3 but not exceeding 0. This will result in maximizing very clean and powerful bass to your taste. Have you had a chance to review the Audyssey/Sub set up guidelines posted by mthomas47? Good luck going forward!

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...l#post47140321
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post #27136 of 31287 Old 01-23-2018, 08:44 AM
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You know, I wouldn't mind seeing a PC16-Ultra. Anybody know is SVS might be entertaining such a creation? I like the idea of the cylinders from a footprint standpoint.

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post #27137 of 31287 Old 01-23-2018, 09:46 AM
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You know, I wouldn't mind seeing a PC16-Ultra. Anybody know is SVS might be entertaining such a creation? I like the idea of the cylinders from a footprint standpoint.
My first SVS sub was a cylinder...so the form factor is pleasing to me as well. WRT to a PC16 Ultra, there was some discussion when the 16 Ultras were announced/introduced. It was pure speculation but IIRC, it was suggested that the larger diameter driver would result in a design that was too large, too tall, and too unwieldy? At any rate, perhaps @Ed Mullen could comment further on the reality of a PC16.
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post #27138 of 31287 Old 01-23-2018, 11:58 AM
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My first SVS sub was a cylinder...so the form factor is pleasing to me as well. WRT to a PC16 Ultra, there was some discussion when the 16 Ultras were announced/introduced. It was pure speculation but IIRC, it was suggested that the larger diameter driver would result in a design that was too large, too tall, and too unwieldy? At any rate, perhaps @Ed Mullen could comment further on the reality of a PC16.
Your recollection is correct - the 16-Ultra driver will not fit into the current cylinder tubing, and therefore the PC16-Ultra is a non-starter. Increasing the cylinder tubing diameter to accommodate the 16-Ultra driver runs counter to the value proposition of the PC - which is similar performance as the PB model with a much smaller footprint. You'd be surprised how much more visual impact an 18" diameter cylinder has compared to the current 16" diameter - it really loses the slim form factor.
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post #27139 of 31287 Old 01-23-2018, 12:39 PM
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Holy crap moment last night. Watched the movie Hacksaw ridge when my wife left for the afternoon . Start of the movie had nice rumble from explosions. But later on in the movie when the battleships starts softening up the enemy. I felt like I was there. I swear my walls were moving. Couch and floor were going frigging crazy. Wow! My PB-4000 blew my mind because it had that much output with incredible Sq.

Running 5db hot on the sub and -12db on my receiver.

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That's really good news. Congrats! I'm hoping my reaction will be the same. My SB-4000 delivery is scheduled for this Friday with my SVS dealer doing the install on Saturday, and I've got Dunkirk cued up for the first demo. I need to check out the demo thread for some additional sub-demo suggestions.

This is going to be fun!

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post #27140 of 31287 Old 01-23-2018, 01:26 PM
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Hey gang,

I got back my receiver (here's hoping the HDMI board doesn't fail for a third time!), and as luck would have it, one of the amplifiers was bad on one of the new PB-1000s. Got that sorted out (SVS = wonderful customer service).

Here's my setup:
Receiver: Denon X-3400H (has dedicated port for each sub)
Front L/R Speaker: Polk Rti-10
Center: Polk CSi-5
Surround L/R: Polk FXi-5
Dolby Atmos Elevation Front L/R: Klipsch PS-140SA
2 subs: SVS PB-1000

Sub distance is about 16 ft from main listening position. One sub is next to Front Left, other sub is next to Front Right (really the only place I can put them currently due to other furniture, etc.).

I set the subs to 1pm on the volume, switched to LFE mode and phase = 0. Any higher volume setting notch on the subs and Audyssey reports the volume is too high.

I've read the Audyssey config thread backwards and forwards (but I'll admit, I may have missed something).

I ran Audyssey setup and this is what it configured:

==Crossovers==
Front Full Band (40Hz)
Center Full Band (40Hz)
Surround 40Hz
Front Dolby 120Hz

Prior to the SVS subs, Audyssey set my L/R/C and surrounds as 80Hz, so I am not sure why they are now configured as 40Hz. If I remember correctly, the Audyssey FAQ recommends changing them back to 80Hz.

==Levels==
Front L +3.5
Front R +4.0
Center +1.5
Sub 1 -8.5
Sub 2 -12.0
Surround L -2.0
Surround R -2.5
Front Dolby L +6.0
Front Dolby R +6.0

Q1: I thought the sweet spot for subs is in the -3 to -6 db range. So, it looks like I need to turn the sub volume down and try again. Guess I should start at 12pm and see how it goes. Any other thoughts?

==Speaker Config==
Audyssey set L/R/C all to Large. I changed them back to small.

Q2: Any other recommendations based on your guys use of SVS I should think about when doing Audyssey calibration?

Ross
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post #27141 of 31287 Old 01-23-2018, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by gene4ht View Post
Have you contacted your dealer or SVS yet? At the very least, they should be aware of the sub's condition. It's typical that SVS will provide the assistance necessary to restore the LED function and also offer some form of compensation for any blemishes.. regardless if you find it acceptable or are able to rectify it yourself. This type of response is in SVS's DNA and the reason why there are so many repeat customers. The LED issue could be as simple as a disconnected internal lead/wire...which SVS could guide you into reconnecting. WRT Audyssey setting sub trim to -1, it is generally acknowledged that the target/objective is to obtain an initial trim approaching but not reaching -12 after running Audyssey for D+M AVR's...and -15 for some Onkyo AVR's (confirm in your manual). Try increasing gain on the sub to achieve trim levels approaching the -12 or -15 limit. Once achieved, most enthusiast will then increase trim manually in the AVR...typically going to -6 or even -3 but not exceeding 0. This will result in maximizing very clean and powerful bass to your taste. Have you had a chance to review the Audyssey/Sub set up guidelines posted by mthomas47? Good luck going forward!

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...l#post47140321

I haven't contacted as yet as was only last night I found the issue. Will get onto the dealer this morning to let them know and might get on the SVS chat and see what they say! I did notice that initially the blue led flickered when I set it up. Not being familiar with the sub, I thought it might change glow depending on bass content coming through...ha!

Does the red led only come on when the sub is set to standby? The 2nd sub hasn't changed from blue, is this due to the switch being to the 'on' position?
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post #27142 of 31287 Old 01-23-2018, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by smithre4 View Post
Hey gang,

I got back my receiver (here's hoping the HDMI board doesn't fail for a third time!), and as luck would have it, one of the amplifiers was bad on one of the new PB-1000s. Got that sorted out (SVS = wonderful customer service).

Here's my setup:
Receiver: Denon X-3400H (has dedicated port for each sub)
Front L/R Speaker: Polk Rti-10
Center: Polk CSi-5
Surround L/R: Polk FXi-5
Dolby Atmos Elevation Front L/R: Klipsch PS-140SA
2 subs: SVS PB-1000

Sub distance is about 16 ft from main listening position. One sub is next to Front Left, other sub is next to Front Right (really the only place I can put them currently due to other furniture, etc.).

I set the subs to 1pm on the volume, switched to LFE mode and phase = 0. Any higher volume setting notch on the subs and Audyssey reports the volume is too high.

I've read the Audyssey config thread backwards and forwards (but I'll admit, I may have missed something).

I ran Audyssey setup and this is what it configured:

==Crossovers==
Front Full Band (40Hz)
Center Full Band (40Hz)
Surround 40Hz
Front Dolby 120Hz

Prior to the SVS subs, Audyssey set my L/R/C and surrounds as 80Hz, so I am not sure why they are now configured as 40Hz. If I remember correctly, the Audyssey FAQ recommends changing them back to 80Hz.

==Levels==
Front L +3.5
Front R +4.0
Center +1.5
Sub 1 -8.5
Sub 2 -12.0
Surround L -2.0
Surround R -2.5
Front Dolby L +6.0
Front Dolby R +6.0

Q1: I thought the sweet spot for subs is in the -3 to -6 db range. So, it looks like I need to turn the sub volume down and try again. Guess I should start at 12pm and see how it goes. Any other thoughts?

==Speaker Config==
Audyssey set L/R/C all to Large. I changed them back to small.

Q2: Any other recommendations based on your guys use of SVS I should think about when doing Audyssey calibration?
Hi,

It sounds as if 12:00 might work. I strongly recommend that you read the subwoofer guide linked in my signature. People can give you specific advice to follow, but unless you understand why you are doing things that way, you will end up with more questions. That's why the Guide was written, and it explains a lot of why's.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #27143 of 31287 Old 01-23-2018, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

It sounds as if 12:00 might work. I strongly recommend that you read the subwoofer guide linked in my signature. People can give you specific advice to follow, but unless you understand why you are doing things that way, you will end up with more questions. That's why the Guide was written, and it explains a lot of why's.

Regards,
Mike
Thanks Mike. I forgot to mention that I had indeed read your article a week or so ago.

Ross
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post #27144 of 31287 Old 01-23-2018, 03:45 PM
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I haven't contacted as yet as was only last night I found the issue. Will get onto the dealer this morning to let them know and might get on the SVS chat and see what they say!
OK great...informing both should bring a quick resolution.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brettmckinney View Post
I did notice that initially the blue led flickered when I set it up. Not being familiar with the sub, I thought it might change glow depending on bass content coming through...ha!
No

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brettmckinney View Post
Does the red led only come on when the sub is set to standby? The 2nd sub hasn't changed from blue, is this due to the switch being to the 'on' position?
Yes and yes...

From the PB-2000 manual...

Auto/Standby and On Switch
4
If this switch is set to Auto/Standby, it will automatically turn-on the subwoofer
in the presence of a signal. If no signal is present for a period of several
minutes, the amplifier will drop into Standby mode, where power consumption
will be less than 0.5 watts. If this switch is set to On, the amplifier will remain
on continuously and will not drop into Standby mode

Power Status Light (front panel)
10
The power status light is located on the front panel of the subwoofer in the
upper left corner. The light will illuminate blue when the amplifier is on. The
light will illuminate red when the amplifier is in standby mode.
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post #27145 of 31287 Old 01-23-2018, 04:24 PM
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Hi,

It sounds as if 12:00 might work. I strongly recommend that you read the subwoofer guide linked in my signature. People can give you specific advice to follow, but unless you understand why you are doing things that way, you will end up with more questions. That's why the Guide was written, and it explains a lot of why's.

Regards,
Mike
OK, I've spent the last 40+ minutes tinkering with this.

Test 1 - Set both subs to 12:00. Audyssey reported that both volumes were too low. Cancelled out and went one notch. Continued this approach until I got near the 1pm notch and then Audyssey reported they were good. Went through the complete calibration and they were still both high negative levels (I think one was at -9 and the other near or at -12).

Test 2 - set both subs to 12:00. This time I used the SW Level Matching to set the gain. I think they were near where I had them in Test 1; I went one to two notches to ensure they were in "green" and around 75-76db. Completed Audyssey setup and both subs were set with -12db level.

Test 3 - set both subs to 12:00. This time I used the SW Level Matching to set the gain; only this time I only used the first notch where software indicated they were green. I think the second sub required 1 more notch than the first sub. Anyway, completed calibration and found that sub1 has -9.5 and sub2 has -11.

Any additional advice, Mike?

Ross
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post #27146 of 31287 Old 01-23-2018, 04:38 PM
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OK, I've spent the last 40+ minutes tinkering with this.

Test 1 - Set both subs to 12:00. Audyssey reported that both volumes were too low. Cancelled out and went one notch. Continued this approach until I got near the 1pm notch and then Audyssey reported they were good. Went through the complete calibration and they were still both high negative levels (I think one was at -9 and the other near or at -12).

Test 2 - set both subs to 12:00. This time I used the SW Level Matching to set the gain. I think they were near where I had them in Test 1; I went one to two notches to ensure they were in "green" and around 75-76db. Completed Audyssey setup and both subs were set with -12db level.

Test 3 - set both subs to 12:00. This time I used the SW Level Matching to set the gain; only this time I only used the first notch where software indicated they were green. I think the second sub required 1 more notch than the first sub. Anyway, completed calibration and found that sub1 has -9.5 and sub2 has -11.

Any additional advice, Mike?
No, I think that you are fine with the third try. The analogue gain controls can make it a little difficult to dial things in precisely, but I think you got to a good final result. Starting with low negative trim levels like that, after the level-matching process is complete, is actually a good thing. Now, you have some trim level headroom that you can employ to add bass boosts if you want, and still stay at about -5 or below.

What's happening there is that the different placement of the subs in the room is affecting the individual output of the two subs. So, you are ending up with slightly different trim levels. But, a 1.5db spread isn't bad at all. As you add a sub boost with your AVR trim controls (assuming that you want to) just go up symmetrically with both trim levels. For instance, you might add 4.5db to Sub 1 and you would be at -5. Add 4.5db to sub 2 and you would be at -6.5. Those would be pretty good post-calibration trim levels.

If you find that you ever want to add more sub boost than that, just go up a click on each sub gain. Again, you will want to make symmetrical adjustments so that your subs remain level-matched. I would also make a note somewhere of the trim levels that you started with and any gain increases you add, just so you will have an idea of how much total boost you have added.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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Originally Posted by smithre4 View Post

Prior to the SVS subs, Audyssey set my L/R/C and surrounds as 80Hz, so I am not sure why they are now configured as 40Hz. If I remember correctly, the Audyssey FAQ recommends changing them back to 80Hz.


It is explain in the configuration guide, but is a short explanation of the why.
When Audyssey do the calibration, it always set the speakers for what they are capable, in your case 40Hz for L/R/C.


So it is normal
Just set them back to 80Hz, once the calibration is done.
I got my setting that way too, 80Hz for all speakers, even with my front towers.


Ray
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I would also make a note somewhere of the trim levels that you started with and any gain increases you add, just so you will have an idea of how much total boost you have added.
Great tip/advice..lately, I've also begun to take iphone/ipad photos of before and after Audyssey and subwoofer trim results/settings...OCD I guess!

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It is explain in the configuration guide, but is a short explanation of the why.
When Audyssey do the calibration, it always set the speakers for what they are capable, in your case 40Hz for L/R/C.

So it is normal
Just set them back to 80Hz, once the calibration is done.
I got my setting that way too, 80Hz for all speakers, even with my front towers.

Ray
Hi Ray,

If you are interested, I have included a fairly thorough explanation of how crossovers are set (and why) in the Guide linked in my signature.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #27150 of 31287 Old 01-23-2018, 05:57 PM
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Hi Ray,

If you are interested, I have included a fairly thorough explanation of how crossovers are set (and why) in the Guide linked in my signature.

Regards,
Mike

Is it a new one?
A few years back, I printed the whole Guide, easier for me to flip through the pages, very expensive on Ink but was worth-it, a masterpiece of information


It as been years since I reviewed-it since I know all the important step during calibration.


Ray
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