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post #27931 of 31618 Old 04-03-2018, 09:19 PM
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is 100 deg f at the top of the amp plate normal , basically idling along, with no heavy bass tracks?
gain stays on about - 18 or so.
just got a new sb 4000, and was just wondering.
i would think it should barely be warm, not being stressed.

thanks...
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post #27932 of 31618 Old 04-04-2018, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nodoubt View Post
is 100 deg f at the top of the amp plate normal , basically idling along, with no heavy bass tracks?
gain stays on about - 18 or so.
just got a new sb 4000, and was just wondering.
i would think it should barely be warm, not being stressed.

thanks...
My PB 13 Ultra has a bit smaller amp but still has 1000 watts and it runs about 103 deg F after being pushed hard during a 2 hour Bluray movie. At idle in the upper 90's YMMV.... these figures will vary from different hand held. I use a "VeraTemp" digital hand held ( $65.00 or so) that has several settings, one for surface. Call Ed at SVS Customer Service you have a larger amp and post up.

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post #27933 of 31618 Old 04-04-2018, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Louis Bartay View Post
My PB 13 Ultra has a bit smaller amp but still has 1000 watts and it runs about 103 deg F after being pushed hard during a 2 hour Bluray movie. At idle in the upper 90's YMMV.... these figures will vary from different hand held. I use a "VeraTemp" digital hand held ( $65.00 or so) that has several settings, one for surface. Call Ed at SVS Customer Service you have a larger amp and post up.
im sure its all good where im at
its never got over 102 f or so running bass tracks.
ive got a good fluke ir temp gun thats pretty accurate.
will this thing break in in a few weeks or so?
ive never seen such a stiff cone on a sub, like knocking on concrete !
the sb 2000 i just returned had a ton more flexibility to it, and moved alot at moderate volumes.
this thing refuses to move until you really get on it good.
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post #27934 of 31618 Old 04-05-2018, 12:43 AM
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Thinking of the svs ultra tower speakers as they are on sale here in my country. The catch is its the 'oak' finish on sale. Thoughts on this? Everyone seems to get and love the piano black finish.
Depends on your tolerance on reflections. I bloody hate them and I'd take the cheapest looking finish if it doesn't reflect light like it's some mirror on the wall. I'd even wrap a speaker myself if it only comes in a gloss finish.

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post #27935 of 31618 Old 04-05-2018, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Troyus_ View Post
Thinking of the svs ultra tower speakers as they are on sale here in my country. The catch is its the 'oak' finish on sale. Thoughts on this? Everyone seems to get and love the piano black finish.
Curious...what country?

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Depends on your tolerance on reflections. I bloody hate them and I'd take the cheapest looking finish if it doesn't reflect light like it's some mirror on the wall. I'd even wrap a speaker myself if it only comes in a gloss finish.
Purely personal preference...has nothing to do with capability or performance. The piano finish probably has a broader appeal due to its (you pick the adjective: rich, expensive, elegant, etc) look. However, there are also a few negatives: as Ben Tan mentions...distracting light reflections...especially for those with projectors, fingerprint magnet, and must dust often due to high visibility. I'm likely in the minority as I prefer the oak finish...so again, purely a personal choice.
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post #27936 of 31618 Old 04-05-2018, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by gene4ht View Post
Purely personal preference...has nothing to do with capability or performance. The piano finish probably has a broader appeal due to its (you pick the adjective: rich, expensive, elegant, etc) look. However, there are also a few negatives: as Ben Tan mentions...distracting light reflections...especially for those with projectors, fingerprint magnet, and must dust often due to high visibility. I'm likely in the minority as I prefer the oak finish...so again, purely a personal choice.
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Depends on your tolerance on reflections. I bloody hate them and I'd take the cheapest looking finish if it doesn't reflect light like it's some mirror on the wall. I'd even wrap a speaker myself if it only comes in a gloss finish.
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Originally Posted by Troyus_ View Post
Thinking of the svs ultra tower speakers as they are on sale here in my country. The catch is its the 'oak' finish on sale. Thoughts on this? Everyone seems to get and love the piano black finish.
gene4ht and Ben tan have already nailed this. The one thing I will also add though is that the gloss finishes risk scratching much more easily than the others. I'm not sure all of the differences among the various type of "piano black" finishes, but I'll give it to SVS in that at least the subs I have - their finish seems a bit less-prone to scratching than either my other two speaker brands' gloss black. And of those two brands, one set of speakers I have is not available in gloss black, and I've gotta say - hands down, lower maintenance!

That said, and to reiterate, it's highly personal - I don't find any reflectivity bothersome (no projector, just a TV, so fairly minimal), and I will add on adjective to gene4ht's list. SEXY! Sorry, they just are for me, but you never really *think* about this when you are engrossed in nice music or a good film....

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post #27937 of 31618 Old 04-05-2018, 06:33 PM
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So I bought an SVS PB-1000 used online and it doesn't work. The power light comes on but no sound. I connected it via the LFE to my AVR. I've tried using my phones headphone out to RCA to check the input but no sound from that either. I've talked to SVS and they told me to check the connections inside the sub with a 9V battery. Well I unscrewed the amp but the screw heads are crappy and now two of them are stripped. I can't get them back into the sub completely as the screw driver just spins in the screw head. My first foray into SVS and it's not going well to say the least. Any suggestions?

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post #27938 of 31618 Old 04-05-2018, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Canuck31 View Post
So I bought an SVS PB-1000 used online and it doesn't work. The power light comes on but no sound. I connected it via the LFE to my AVR. I've tried using my phones headphone out to RCA to check the input but no sound from that either. I've talked to SVS and they told me to check the connections inside the sub with a 9V battery. Well I unscrewed the amp but the screw heads are crappy and now two of them are stripped. I can't get them back into the sub completely as the screw driver just spins in the screw head. My first foray into SVS and it's not going well to say the least. Any suggestions?
Did you buy it from them or elsewhere?

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post #27939 of 31618 Old 04-05-2018, 09:58 PM
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Did you buy it from them or elsewhere?
I bought it used on Kijiji. The seller said he had no issues with the sub and it should still be within warranty. The seller is still conversing with me and does seem to have a good experience with the sub. He's not being a dumbass about it.
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post #27940 of 31618 Old 04-05-2018, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Canuck31 View Post
I bought it used on Kijiji. The seller said he had no issues with the sub and it should still be within warranty. The seller is still conversing with me and does seem to have a good experience with the sub. He's not being a dumbass about it.
Thanks, I thought that if you had bought a used one directly from SVS they would definitely make it right. They may still be able to help, they have pretty superior customer service. Hopefully it is still under warranty. Good luck with it.

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post #27941 of 31618 Old 04-05-2018, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Canuck31 View Post
I bought it used on Kijiji. The seller said he had no issues with the sub and it should still be within warranty. The seller is still conversing with me and does seem to have a good experience with the sub. He's not being a dumbass about it.
svs has 5star customer service
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post #27942 of 31618 Old 04-05-2018, 10:06 PM
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Thanks, I thought that if you had bought a used one directly from SVS they would definitely make it right. They may still be able to help, they have pretty superior customer service. Hopefully it is still under warranty. Good luck with it.
Thanks. I really want this to work out. I've heard the PB-1000 are supposed to be really good for the price.

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svs has 5star customer service
yeah they seemed okay when I emailed them last evening.

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post #27943 of 31618 Old 04-06-2018, 05:22 AM
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My Pb16 Ultra (black oak) will be delivered Monday. Told the wife that the new subwoofer (PB4000) was being replaced due to recall with the amplifiers. I told her that they were a new speaker and some people were having issues with them catching fire.

I feel so bad for lying to my wife cause I'm usually truthful with everything regarding everything. I just in no way could think of a rational argument to tell her that a bought a larger subwoofer than the already ridiculously large PB4000 that I already bought. To be honest I don't think she will even notice the size difference since the cabinet is not much larger than the PB4000. Humm. I feel like I need to tell her the truth now. Then again she thinks these are all $500subs. So I'll just let it be and buy her something nice to make up for my guilty conscience.

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post #27944 of 31618 Old 04-06-2018, 08:48 AM
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My Pb16 Ultra (black oak) will be delivered Monday. Told the wife that the new subwoofer (PB4000) was being replaced due to recall with the amplifiers. I told her that they were a new speaker and some people were having issues with them catching fire.

I feel so bad for lying to my wife cause I'm usually truthful with everything regarding everything. I just in no way could think of a rational argument to tell her that a bought a larger subwoofer than the already ridiculously large PB4000 that I already bought. To be honest I don't think she will even notice the size difference since the cabinet is not much larger than the PB4000. Humm. I feel like I need to tell her the truth now. Then again she thinks these are all $500subs. So I'll just let it be and buy her something nice to make up for my guilty conscience.

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Omg!

If she finds out, you’re toast! lol

Please report back and let me know how you like the PB-16 compared to the PB-4k!


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post #27945 of 31618 Old 04-06-2018, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by lag1791 View Post
My Pb16 Ultra (black oak) will be delivered Monday. Told the wife that the new subwoofer (PB4000) was being replaced due to recall with the amplifiers. I told her that they were a new speaker and some people were having issues with them catching fire.

I feel so bad for lying to my wife cause I'm usually truthful with everything regarding everything. I just in no way could think of a rational argument to tell her that a bought a larger subwoofer than the already ridiculously large PB4000 that I already bought. To be honest I don't think she will even notice the size difference since the cabinet is not much larger than the PB4000. Humm. I feel like I need to tell her the truth now. Then again she thinks these are all $500subs. So I'll just let it be and buy her something nice to make up for my guilty conscience.

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That’s how it begins I know.


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post #27946 of 31618 Old 04-06-2018, 12:10 PM
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svs sb2000

I have dual SB2000 one positioned in the front left corner of the room and the second one is located in the rear right corner of the room. I have a pioneer SC95 receiver and I ran the pioneer auto cal with both gains on the subs set to 12 o'clock. After Cal was done it set the trims on the low end, one was set to -12 and the other was set to -11.5 . So I raised the trim level to about-6 on front and -5 on the rear, and set crossover to 80 and speakers to small. . SVS suggested I set the gain on the subs to the 12' o'clock position when doing the cal. Now I have been reading around that some owners of svs subs set the gain on them to 2'oclock which seems kind of high to me. Is it okay to move the gain on the sub after the cal is finished or is it better to leave it in the same position? A little confused never calibrated dual subs before. The system sound pretty good to me the way I have it set up but i just want to make sure I am getting the most out of these subs I purchased. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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post #27947 of 31618 Old 04-06-2018, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by logan456 View Post
I have dual SB2000 one positioned in the front left corner of the room and the second one is located in the rear right corner of the room. I have a pioneer SC95 receiver and I ran the pioneer auto cal with both gains on the subs set to 12 o'clock. After Cal was done it set the trims on the low end, one was set to -12 and the other was set to -11.5 . So I raised the trim level to about-6 on front and -5 on the rear, and set crossover to 80 and speakers to small. . SVS suggested I set the gain on the subs to the 12' o'clock position when doing the cal. Now I have been reading around that some owners of svs subs set the gain on them to 2'oclock which seems kind of high to me. Is it okay to move the gain on the sub after the cal is finished or is it better to leave it in the same position? A little confused never calibrated dual subs before. The system sound pretty good to me the way I have it set up but i just want to make sure I am getting the most out of these subs I purchased. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Is -12 the lowest trim level? If so, I'd run the calibration again but with the gains slightly higher as you don't know whether the receiver wanted to set the trim lower but couldn't do so due to -12 being the limit.

If you want more bass, I'd start with increasing the trims first (up to a maximum of -5). If you're not satisfied with the level of bass after doing that, increase the gain.

I have a receiver which has Audyssey and a PB-1000. I did both, as I was not satisfied with the amount of bass even after increasing the trim to from -11 to -5. So not only did I increase the trim by 6dB, I increased the gain to around 2 o'clock. And I use Dynamic EQ. And my PB-1000 is very nearfield. Guys, am I a basshead?
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post #27948 of 31618 Old 04-06-2018, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by logan456 View Post
I have dual SB2000 one positioned in the front left corner of the room and the second one is located in the rear right corner of the room. I have a pioneer SC95 receiver and I ran the pioneer auto cal with both gains on the subs set to 12 o'clock. After Cal was done it set the trims on the low end, one was set to -12 and the other was set to -11.5 . So I raised the trim level to about-6 on front and -5 on the rear, and set crossover to 80 and speakers to small. . SVS suggested I set the gain on the subs to the 12' o'clock position when doing the cal. Now I have been reading around that some owners of svs subs set the gain on them to 2'oclock which seems kind of high to me. Is it okay to move the gain on the sub after the cal is finished or is it better to leave it in the same position? A little confused never calibrated dual subs before. The system sound pretty good to me the way I have it set up but i just want to make sure I am getting the most out of these subs I purchased. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hi,

I don't know whether the trim levels on your Pioneer max out at -12, or if they can go lower than that. Your owner's manual should tell you. Off-hand, I would say that even if one of your trim levels was maxed-out after calibration at -12, though, you should be alright. When you increased your AVR trim, you added about +6db to your subs. If I were you, I would increase the subs by exactly the same amount, once they are level-matched. If I understood your description correctly, that would give you trim levels of -6 and -5.5.

It is perfectly fine to increase the gain on the subs after calibrating them. In fact, if you ever find yourself wanting to add even more sub boost than what you are using now, I would suggest that you just increase the gain settings on both subs to 1:00. If that ends up being too much, you could then use your AVR trims to make fine adjustments. For instance, you might increase the gain to 1:00, and then back-off the trims by .5db each.

The gain and trim controls can be used interchangeably, although it is a good idea to keep the trim levels well into negative numbers--such as -5 or lower. I am linking a subwoofer guide which will give you a lot of information about setting up your system, and the whole second section talks about adding bass with the gain and trim controls. Don't worry about the fact that much of the second section refers to Audyssey. The same basic principles apply to other systems of automated calibration and room equalization.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-su...eferences.html

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #27949 of 31618 Old 04-06-2018, 08:21 PM
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So would it be better to send my non working PB-1000 back to the seller or to SVS for service? (See story in previous post)

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post #27950 of 31618 Old 04-06-2018, 08:56 PM
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So would it be better to send my non working PB-1000 back to the seller or to SVS for service? (See story in previous post)
If it is under warranty and SVS will take it back and fix it for you, I would probably do that, if you want to keep it. If you don't want to keep it, send it back to the seller if he will take it back and buy an outlet store model directly from SVS.
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post #27951 of 31618 Old 04-06-2018, 10:13 PM
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If it is under warranty and SVS will take it back and fix it for you, I would probably do that, if you want to keep it. If you don't want to keep it, send it back to the seller if he will take it back and buy an outlet store model directly from SVS.
I can't buy from the outlet as I'm in Canada. I've asked SVS about that before. I jumped on this offer from the seller as it seemed to be a good price. But I'm still debating ported vs sealed. I definitely want something that is good for music as well as movies. Even though I have tower L/R this PB-1000 makes them seem short.
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post #27952 of 31618 Old 04-07-2018, 03:55 AM
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I just ordered a Ultra Center and SB-4000 to pair with my Ultra Bookshelves. Pumped.

Here's a question that I have always wondered - what does SVS stand for? I've owned their speakers for years but don't know. Ha!
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post #27953 of 31618 Old 04-07-2018, 06:56 AM
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Help! New SB4000 issue

Hello fellow SVS people. As stated in my signature, you can see I already have 2 SB2000's in my system and enjoying these immensely. I posted in the thread a while ago when I added the 2nd unit to comment about how much more I am enjoying the setup with the dual 2000's over the single. I said it before and will say it again, the SB2000 is a fantastic sub, and recommend it highly; multiples ever better. The output is clean and punchy and really compliments my other speakers well. The SVS subs just blend in so nicely with the existing setup.

I am in the quest to get more output, but maintain the same quality of sound/effect that I have now. This is addictive, and I am happily addicted! I also got WAF to get a new SB4000, so just recently picked one up. I started out replacing one of the 2000's with the 4000 to see what improvement I would get, but to my shock, I am experiencing the opposite: I am getting less with the 4000. I know this does not make any sense... For testing purposes, I then moved the 4000 out from the front corner to the middle of the room, directly facing me, about 8 feet away. Still same thing... I put the 2000 beside it, and alternating between the 2 subs, I am getting more output from the 2000. The 4000 is working, but it just seems to be holding back. I am playing back scenes from movies/tv shows that I know very well and the 4000 is just not cutting it. For example, the opening theme song of Stranger Things, near the end with the heartbeat and the sustained rumble, the 2000 delivers but the 4000 seems to be half asleep...

I have the 4000 set to factory default (-10 volume), but I did try the movie and music presets, and also increased the sub volume to -5), but still not getting the output I am expecting. Of course this makes no sense, because the 4000 has a bigger driver, and a more powerful amp, so I suspect the unit I got is faulty. I am crushed, because the 4000 is a perfect size for my room and fits nicely, and also fits the budget. I keep hearing about the PB4000 and I think I might be able to convince my better half to get that (after sending back the SB). The PB is a much bigger box, so I would need to put this on the side wall beside a couch, instead of at the front corner of the room where the SB is now.

I thank you for reading this and appreciate any suggestions.

Sony XBR-75X940D, Anthem MRX 720, Oppo UDP-203 Nvidia Shield TV (1st gen), Sony PS3
PSB Stratus Silver Towers, PSB Stratus C5i Centre Channel, PSB Image S5 Surrounds, SVS SB-2000 x 2
Logitech Harmony Companion, Multiple Sonos gear, Synology NAS, Monster Power PowerCenter Surge
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post #27954 of 31618 Old 04-07-2018, 08:06 AM
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Hello fellow SVS people. As stated in my signature, you can see I already have 2 SB2000's in my system and enjoying these immensely. I posted in the thread a while ago when I added the 2nd unit to comment about how much more I am enjoying the setup with the dual 2000's over the single. I said it before and will say it again, the SB2000 is a fantastic sub, and recommend it highly; multiples ever better. The output is clean and punchy and really compliments my other speakers well. The SVS subs just blend in so nicely with the existing setup.

I am in the quest to get more output, but maintain the same quality of sound/effect that I have now. This is addictive, and I am happily addicted! I also got WAF to get a new SB4000, so just recently picked one up. I started out replacing one of the 2000's with the 4000 to see what improvement I would get, but to my shock, I am experiencing the opposite: I am getting less with the 4000. I know this does not make any sense... For testing purposes, I then moved the 4000 out from the front corner to the middle of the room, directly facing me, about 8 feet away. Still same thing... I put the 2000 beside it, and alternating between the 2 subs, I am getting more output from the 2000. The 4000 is working, but it just seems to be holding back. I am playing back scenes from movies/tv shows that I know very well and the 4000 is just not cutting it. For example, the opening theme song of Stranger Things, near the end with the heartbeat and the sustained rumble, the 2000 delivers but the 4000 seems to be half asleep...

I have the 4000 set to factory default (-10 volume), but I did try the movie and music presets, and also increased the sub volume to -5), but still not getting the output I am expecting. Of course this makes no sense, because the 4000 has a bigger driver, and a more powerful amp, so I suspect the unit I got is faulty. I am crushed, because the 4000 is a perfect size for my room and fits nicely, and also fits the budget. I keep hearing about the PB4000 and I think I might be able to convince my better half to get that (after sending back the SB). The PB is a much bigger box, so I would need to put this on the side wall beside a couch, instead of at the front corner of the room where the SB is now.

I thank you for reading this and appreciate any suggestions.
Hi,

Congratulations on your journey to becoming a basshead! Going from a single SB2000 to, potentially, a PB4000 means that you are well on your way. All kidding aside, that is what a lot of us have experienced. As we hear low-bass and start to feel bass tactile sensations in our listening rooms, we like that even more than we anticipated, and we want more of it.

My first thought is that you may be running the SB4000 with the same calibration/room EQ that you were running with your SB2000. Did you recalibrate with the new sub? If you did, then I think that you will need to contact SVS to go through some trouble-shooting on that sub. As you suggest, it may simply be defective.

Irrespective of whether or not the SB4000 is working properly, though, if you want to take the whole bass experience to another level, you can simply return it and get a PB4000 instead. The PB4000 (or the PC4000 cylinder version) will give you much more low-bass SPL than the SB4000 will. The new models have updated qualities which make them slightly superior to the previous 13 Ultras, but the overall output is about the same. So, you can compare The PB13 and the SB13 on the following table to understand the max output differences between the two subs.

https://data-bass.com/systems

I mention that because if you are already thinking about the PB4000, then it is unlikely that you will stop thinking about it even if you get the SB4000 working properly. The best advice I know is to buy the most powerful subwoofer you can afford, and then add a partner to it if and when you can. That is particularly the case when you have reasons to believe that you will want to upgrade again. Based on your posts, you have reasons.

The following is a direct link to a buying guide for subwoofers. It includes some discussion of the differences between sealed and ported subs. I hope it helps!

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-su...erences.html#I

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #27955 of 31618 Old 04-07-2018, 08:53 AM
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2 sub results with phase change

Pardon the cross post, but I didn't get a response on the REW thread (it is not an REW question as I think about it, so I have deleted it there). I have 2 new SVS SB16Us, and am working on position and other controls, and have the following spl plot that resulted after changing the phase of the rear sub from 0 to 60 (other settings for rear sub phase checked too with less good results). A null at 45hz was mostly eliminated. Does this look like it is heading in the right direction? SVS tells me that it is ok to have the 2 subs phase set differently, provided fixing one frequency doesn't adversely affect something else. Using REW, I found that with the settings I have, a 0 front and 60 rear pretty much just mitigated the 45hz dip without hurting anything else. FWIW, the bass sounds pretty good to me on my favorite test movies (BR2049, Godzilla 2014, Jurassic Park, EOT, Oblivion, Interstellar and others).
Thanks for your impressions on this.
Mark
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post #27956 of 31618 Old 04-07-2018, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by hifi123 View Post
Hello fellow SVS people. As stated in my signature, you can see I already have 2 SB2000's in my system and enjoying these immensely. I posted in the thread a while ago when I added the 2nd unit to comment about how much more I am enjoying the setup with the dual 2000's over the single. I said it before and will say it again, the SB2000 is a fantastic sub, and recommend it highly; multiples ever better. The output is clean and punchy and really compliments my other speakers well. The SVS subs just blend in so nicely with the existing setup.

I am in the quest to get more output, but maintain the same quality of sound/effect that I have now. This is addictive, and I am happily addicted! I also got WAF to get a new SB4000, so just recently picked one up. I started out replacing one of the 2000's with the 4000 to see what improvement I would get, but to my shock, I am experiencing the opposite: I am getting less with the 4000. I know this does not make any sense... For testing purposes, I then moved the 4000 out from the front corner to the middle of the room, directly facing me, about 8 feet away. Still same thing... I put the 2000 beside it, and alternating between the 2 subs, I am getting more output from the 2000. The 4000 is working, but it just seems to be holding back. I am playing back scenes from movies/tv shows that I know very well and the 4000 is just not cutting it. For example, the opening theme song of Stranger Things, near the end with the heartbeat and the sustained rumble, the 2000 delivers but the 4000 seems to be half asleep...

I have the 4000 set to factory default (-10 volume), but I did try the movie and music presets, and also increased the sub volume to -5), but still not getting the output I am expecting. Of course this makes no sense, because the 4000 has a bigger driver, and a more powerful amp, so I suspect the unit I got is faulty. I am crushed, because the 4000 is a perfect size for my room and fits nicely, and also fits the budget. I keep hearing about the PB4000 and I think I might be able to convince my better half to get that (after sending back the SB). The PB is a much bigger box, so I would need to put this on the side wall beside a couch, instead of at the front corner of the room where the SB is now.

I thank you for reading this and appreciate any suggestions.
You definitely need to run your EQ correction again with new speaker. I went from the Pb12-nsd which is a slight step down from the PB2000 but when I upgraded to the PB4000 it was a definite night and day experience. My Pb12-nsd, I was like nice base, good tone hits hard. My PB-4000 I was like Holly $h>t. My wife was worried that the windows were going to blow out for real.
If you can fit it I would highly recommend the PB4000. That said I'm heading to the PB-16ultra territory myself. I wish SVS didn't make it so easy to upgrade.

Lastly. I think you will be surprised on how musical the ported SVS subs are. When I got my PB-4000 after calibration (plus bumping the sub volume from the - 10 to - 2) I played Elton John Tumbleweed SACD in my OPPO and was amazed on how well that huge sub blended with my Klipsch RP-260f towers.

Plus you can always run them in sealed mode.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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post #27957 of 31618 Old 04-07-2018, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by markmanner View Post
Pardon the cross post, but I didn't get a response on the REW thread (it is not an REW question as I think about it, so I have deleted it there). I have 2 new SVS SB16Us, and am working on position and other controls, and have the following spl plot that resulted after changing the phase of the rear sub from 0 to 60 (other settings for rear sub phase checked too with less good results). A null at 45hz was mostly eliminated. Does this look like it is heading in the right direction? SVS tells me that it is ok to have the 2 subs phase set differently, provided fixing one frequency doesn't adversely affect something else. Using REW, I found that with the settings I have, a 0 front and 60 rear pretty much just mitigated the 45hz dip without hurting anything else. FWIW, the bass sounds pretty good to me on my favorite test movies (BR2049, Godzilla 2014, Jurassic Park, EOT, Oblivion, Interstellar and others).
Thanks for your impressions on this.
Mark
Hi Mark,

A number of subwoofer experts suggest adjusting phase when one sub is in the front of the room and another is in the rear, so what you are doing is consistent with that advice. Your frequency response appears to be within about a +/- 3db window, which is the target range for Audyssey and for most other systems of automated room correction. That is definitely headed in the right direction, especially if it sounds good to you now. That is the final test, in my opinion. Is the FR you are showing including room correction?

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

Last edited by mthomas47; 04-07-2018 at 09:42 AM.
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post #27958 of 31618 Old 04-07-2018, 10:47 AM
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Hi Mark,

A number of subwoofer experts suggest adjusting phase when one sub is in the front of the room and another is in the rear, so what you are doing is consistent with that advice. Your frequency response appears to be within about a +/- 3db window, which is the target range for Audyssey and for most other systems of automated room correction. That is definitely headed in the right direction, especially if it sounds good to you now. That is the final test, in my opinion. Is the FR you are showing including room correction?

Regards,
Mike
Hi Mike, the REW plot is after running Audyssey XT32 SubEQ (sub PEQ off and phase on both subs 0), spks to small, crossovers 80hz, LPF for LFE 100 hz, DEQ off, and Ausyssey Reference. After Audyssey, I changed the phase and then turned on the subs' PEQ to raise an 8db dip at 25hz and drop two 8db peaks at 49hz and 64hz, and the REW plot shows what resulted after all that. It was interesting stepping through from 0 to 180 in 10 degree increments. After I got the null mostly gone at 60, I tried in 3 db increments from 50 to 70, and 60 really was the sweet spot. I also heard/felt the EOT sine wave sweep better after this (I know it is really low at 10hz but I guess as it goes up I have been missing some of it).

Do you think that I should redo Ausyssey, with the sub phase changed (but sub PEQ off)? Although I found in earlier testing that that applying Sub PEQ AFTER Audyssey worked better for me, I haven't until now changed the phase around. Perhaps with the phase change dealing with my null, Audyssey could do a better job?

I don't want to sound like a broken record, but thanks again for your contributions on AVS.
Mark
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post #27959 of 31618 Old 04-07-2018, 11:14 AM
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Hi Mike, the REW plot is after running Audyssey XT32 SubEQ (sub PEQ off and phase on both subs 0), spks to small, crossovers 80hz, LPF for LFE 100 hz, DEQ off, and Ausyssey Reference. After Audyssey, I changed the phase and then turned on the subs' PEQ to raise an 8db dip at 25hz and drop two 8db peaks at 49hz and 64hz, and the REW plot shows what resulted after all that. It was interesting stepping through from 0 to 180 in 10 degree increments. After I got the null mostly gone at 60, I tried in 3 db increments from 50 to 70, and 60 really was the sweet spot. I also heard/felt the EOT sine wave sweep better after this (I know it is really low at 10hz but I guess as it goes up I have been missing some of it).

Do you think that I should redo Ausyssey, with the sub phase changed (but sub PEQ off)? Although I found in earlier testing that that applying Sub PEQ AFTER Audyssey worked better for me, I haven't until now changed the phase around. Perhaps with the phase change dealing with my null, Audyssey could do a better job?

I don't want to sound like a broken record, but thanks again for your contributions on AVS.
Mark
Hi Mark,

Thanks for the thanks! I enjoy helping when I can. To me, some of this is just trial-and-error to find out what works best in your particular situation. I might try just what you suggested: phase changed, but PEQ off, and see what happens when you run Audyssey. Then, you can try adding back whatever PEQ adjustments you need to, depending on how things measure and sound. The only thing it will cost is some time, and if it makes things worse, you can always go back to your current procedure.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #27960 of 31618 Old 04-07-2018, 11:21 AM
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Hi,

I don't know whether the trim levels on your Pioneer max out at -12, or if they can go lower than that. Your owner's manual should tell you. Off-hand, I would say that even if one of your trim levels was maxed-out after calibration at -12, though, you should be alright. When you increased your AVR trim, you added about +6db to your subs. If I were you, I would increase the subs by exactly the same amount, once they are level-matched. If I understood your description correctly, that would give you trim levels of -6 and -5.5.

It is perfectly fine to increase the gain on the subs after calibrating them. In fact, if you ever find yourself wanting to add even more sub boost than what you are using now, I would suggest that you just increase the gain settings on both subs to 1:00. If that ends up being too much, you could then use your AVR trims to make fine adjustments. For instance, you might increase the gain to 1:00, and then back-off the trims by .5db each.

The gain and trim controls can be used interchangeably, although it is a good idea to keep the trim levels well into negative numbers--such as -5 or lower. I am linking a subwoofer guide which will give you a lot of information about setting up your system, and the whole second section talks about adding bass with the gain and trim controls. Don't worry about the fact that much of the second section refers to Audyssey. The same basic principles apply to other systems of automated calibration and room equalization.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-su...eferences.html

Regards,
Mike
Thanks for all the info I appreciate it. What I did notice is if I run the calibration with the gain at 10 oclock on each sub it ussually sets one sub to -6.5 and the other sub to -8.5 db. Seems the higher the gain on the sub when running the cal the lower the trim levels. To answer your question -12 is in fact the lowest point. I have been thinking giving the ported 2000 sub a try because I mostly use my home theater for movies. Just afraid it might be to over whelming for my space, my room is only 10x10. it is a small den no door, open room. I know SVS has the 45 day trial, I will see.
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