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post #27961 of 31454 Old 04-07-2018, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Ferrari_1996 View Post
Is -12 the lowest trim level? If so, I'd run the calibration again but with the gains slightly higher as you don't know whether the receiver wanted to set the trim lower but couldn't do so due to -12 being the limit.

If you want more bass, I'd start with increasing the trims first (up to a maximum of -5). If you're not satisfied with the level of bass after doing that, increase the gain.

I have a receiver which has Audyssey and a PB-1000. I did both, as I was not satisfied with the amount of bass even after increasing the trim to from -11 to -5. So not only did I increase the trim by 6dB, I increased the gain to around 2 o'clock. And I use Dynamic EQ. And my PB-1000 is very nearfield. Guys, am I a basshead?
Thanks for the reply, seems the higher I set the gain to when running the cal lthe lower it sets the trim settings. If I set the gain on the sub to 10 oclock and run the cal the trim levels one sub is set to -6.5 and the other sub is set to -8.5. My room is only 10 x 10 was thinking of trying a ported sub, the pb 2000 but I just feel it would be to much my space. It is a open room no door. I do like the SB 2000, never owned a ported sub before.
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post #27962 of 31454 Old 04-07-2018, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by logan456 View Post
Thanks for all the info I appreciate it. What I did notice is if I run the calibration with the gain at 10 oclock on each sub it ussually sets one sub to -6.5 and the other sub to -8.5 db. Seems the higher the gain on the sub when running the cal the lower the trim levels. To answer your question -12 is in fact the lowest point. I have been thinking giving the ported 2000 sub a try because I mostly use my home theater for movies. Just afraid it might be to over whelming for my space, my room is only 10x10. it is a small den no door, open room. I know SVS has the 45 day trial, I will see.
As Jethro Gibbs might suggest...for subwoofers, rule #1 says there is no such thing as too much subwooferage! And secondly, if you are indeed more a movie vs music person, there is no question the ported PB-2000's will provide more satisfying LFE for your taste.
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post #27963 of 31454 Old 04-07-2018, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi Mark,

A number of subwoofer experts suggest adjusting phase when one sub is in the front of the room and another is in the rear, so what you are doing is consistent with that advice. Your frequency response appears to be within about a +/- 3db window, which is the target range for Audyssey and for most other systems of automated room correction. That is definitely headed in the right direction, especially if it sounds good to you now. That is the final test, in my opinion. Is the FR you are showing including room correction?

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Hey Mike. In regards to the above phase advise does this still hold true when you are using Audyssey xt32 and utilizing both sub outs? My understanding had been there should be no need to adjust phase or distance at least on subs independently but you could do the sub distance tweak (equally on both subs) for better integration with mains (which worked very well for me). In what scenerios would adjusting phase on a single sub using xt32 be recommended? Right now I do have a front and rear sub. Thanks.

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post #27964 of 31454 Old 04-07-2018, 01:47 PM
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Regards,
Mike[/quote]

Hey Mike. In regards to the above phase advise does this still hold true when you are using Audyssey xt32 and utilizing both sub outs? My understanding had been there should be no need to adjust phase or distance at least on subs independently but you could do the sub distance tweak (equally on both subs) for better integration with mains (which worked very well for me). In what scenerios would adjusting phase on a single sub using xt32 be recommended? Right now I do have a front and rear sub. Thanks.[/QUOTE]

FWIW, I use XT32 with SubEQ and two separate sub outs on my AV/P, and it definitely improved things for me, both REW plot and subjective listening.
Mark.

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post #27965 of 31454 Old 04-07-2018, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by confinoj View Post
Hey Mike. In regards to the above phase advise does this still hold true when you are using Audyssey xt32 and utilizing both sub outs? My understanding had been there should be no need to adjust phase or distance at least on subs independently but you could do the sub distance tweak (equally on both subs) for better integration with mains (which worked very well for me). In what scenerios would adjusting phase on a single sub using xt32 be recommended? Right now I do have a front and rear sub. Thanks.

I don't really understand why phase adjustments sometimes work and sometimes don't, but that appears to be the case, as Mark has demonstrated. Without measurement capabilities, I think that it may be difficult to get much out of phase adjustment. But, you could approach it in a similar fashion to a sub crawl, playing something with a steady bass sound (I would use music with complex sounds rather than a test tone).

If the bass sounds audibly louder at a particular phase setting, without a sacrifice in clarity, then that might be a superior setting. On the other hand, if your bass already sounds good, and you can't double-check the frequency response, then I wouldn't worry about it. As I understand it, phase adjustment is essentially a corrective measure to fix something which is measurable or audible.

Regards,
Mike

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post #27966 of 31454 Old 04-07-2018, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
I don't really understand why phase adjustments sometimes work and sometimes don't, but that appears to be the case, as Mark has demonstrated. Without measurement capabilities, I think that it may be difficult to get much out of phase adjustment. But, you could approach it in a similar fashion to a sub crawl, playing something with a steady bass sound (I would use music with complex sounds rather than a test tone).

If the bass sounds audibly louder at a particular phase setting, without a sacrifice in clarity, then that might be a superior setting. On the other hand, if your bass already sounds good, and you can't double-check the frequency response, then I wouldn't worry about it. As I understand it, phase adjustment is essentially a corrective measure to fix something which is measurable or audible.

Regards,
Mike
Although I am pretty new to REW, having the ability to get a measurement of what has happened after doing various things with Audyssey seems very important. In addition to my phase adjustment example (it would have been pretty hard to nail down 60 vs. some other possibile settings without it), using REW to see what was happening with different crossovers on my Front L/R speakers was invaluable, as was proving to me why I should really set my Front L/R speakers to small (even though they are really big!). I guess I could have gotten there without it, but it would have been tough. It is not that my system sounded bad the way it came out accepting the defaulty Audyssey settings, its just that it sounds a good bit better now, as a result of several relatively small cumulative changes. I don't know how I would have been able to tease it all out and get there otherwise.
Mark
[edited to add that without REW, I am definitely sure I wouldn't be able to set the Parametric Equalizer settings in my subs]
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post #27967 of 31454 Old 04-07-2018, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
I don't really understand why phase adjustments sometimes work and sometimes don't, but that appears to be the case, as Mark has demonstrated. Without measurement capabilities, I think that it may be difficult to get much out of phase adjustment. But, you could approach it in a similar fashion to a sub crawl, playing something with a steady bass sound (I would use music with complex sounds rather than a test tone).

If the bass sounds audibly louder at a particular phase setting, without a sacrifice in clarity, then that might be a superior setting. On the other hand, if your bass already sounds good, and you can't double-check the frequency response, then I wouldn't worry about it. As I understand it, phase adjustment is essentially a corrective measure to fix something which is measurable or audible.

Regards,
Mike
Thanks Mike. I have REW capability so certainly can measure if I decide to experiment. I’m thinking of putting my pc-4000s back in the rear corners which is where I had the most TR with my pc12+s and doing what Mark Seaton recommends and calibrating as one sub. They are not perfectly equidistant (3ft difference) so maybe that’s where a slight phase adjustment could come in useful. Wish I had more free time for experimenting but I don’t these days. Wife and I are full time physicians with 3 young kids.
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post #27968 of 31454 Old 04-07-2018, 07:14 PM
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This has to be the longest video project I have ever worked on. It took me a week to get it finished, mostly because I ran into issues with not being able to edit the screen captured footage of the SVS App on my iPhone. In the video, I go through every screen in the SVS App as well as the LCD Panel and IR Remote. Hope you enjoy!
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post #27969 of 31454 Old 04-08-2018, 09:28 AM
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Hi Mark,

Thanks for the thanks! I enjoy helping when I can. To me, some of this is just trial-and-error to find out what works best in your particular situation. I might try just what you suggested: phase changed, but PEQ off, and see what happens when you run Audyssey. Then, you can try adding back whatever PEQ adjustments you need to, depending on how things measure and sound. The only thing it will cost is some time, and if it makes things worse, you can always go back to your current procedure.

Regards,
Mike
Hi, Mike, I just redid Audyssey with the rear sub phase at 60. What Audyssey did was 'correct' for that phase difference by adjusting the distance to the rear sub considerably. The result of Audyssey doing that eliminated the effect of the sub phase change on the spl plot in REW. That caused the null to return. So, I went back to no sub phase change before Audyssey, and applied phase change and sub peq afterwards, and got back to where I was. An interesting experiment.
Mark
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post #27970 of 31454 Old 04-09-2018, 08:47 AM
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sb 4000

Has anybody tried running a sb4000 with a sb 2000 in a dual subwoofer setup? I am just curious if it is even possible.
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post #27971 of 31454 Old 04-09-2018, 01:20 PM
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I have dual PC-4000s. Thinking of running them both wireless off a single sub out in rear corners. Is there any difference between using an RCA splitter or daisy chaining using the RCA out on one sub? Is it just an internal splitter? Any added delay or attenuation with RCA line out?

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post #27972 of 31454 Old 04-09-2018, 01:41 PM
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Has anybody tried running a sb4000 with a sb 2000 in a dual subwoofer setup? I am just curious if it is even possible.
Hi,

It's certainly possible. The only real question is whether it is advisable? There is enough difference in the frequency response of the two subs that they might not play well together. (Although they might.) And, the SB4000 has a good bit more output than the SB2000 does. So, in a small room, you might not be able to use all of the output of a 4000, while keeping from overtaxing the 2000. In a larger room, you could position the 2000 much closer to you, than the 4000, to compensate for the difference in their output. But, in a 10' by 10' room, I'm not sure that the distance difference would be enough to matter.

You mentioned in a previous post that you were considering a PB2000, so it's clear that you have upgraditis. I understand that feeling very well and I'm not knocking it. I have been there. But, one thing that I can't tell is whether you are actually lacking something in your bass, or whether you are just concerned that you might be? Based on what you said earlier about your settings, you should still have a lot of headroom left.

If I were you, the first thing I would do is to put on something with some serious and sustained low bass, like The Hulk, or Batman Versus Supermen, or a number of others, and I would start to push my subs. Turn the gain on both of them up from the 12:00 position to the 1:00 position, and see what happens. Crank your master volume a little more. How do the subs sound? In a 100^2 room, you should be getting serious room gain starting at about 30Hz or higher. So, low-frequency extension shouldn't be a problem, even with the SB2000's, and neither should total output.

But, if you do that test, and are still curious, then I think your next best path would be dual SB4000's. I think that in a small room, staying with two subs of the same size and type will work better. And, as much as I like ported subs, it is hard for me to recommend dual ported subs in a room that is less than 1000^3 (probably only about 800^3 assuming a roughly 8' ceiling).

I'm not counseling you against upgrading. That would be unAVS-like. I am just trying to help you define why you want to upgrade, and what if anything you may be missing that your SB2000's can't give you. If you do want more of something, push your current subs hard in an effort to discover what it is.

Regards,
Mike


Edit: I decided to add something to my earlier post. There is a direct link to a subwoofer buyer's guide linked below. It will explain some of the differences between sealed and ported subs, and it may help you to figure out what you are looking for. Just ahead of that is a section on room gain that may also provide a little context with respect to what you can expect.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-su...erences.html#I
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

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post #27973 of 31454 Old 04-09-2018, 06:02 PM
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Subwoofer damage from high levels

Hi, I am not likely to get there, given my somewhat conservative trim settings in my AV/P (-12 & -11.5 for my two SB16Us) and Sub volume settings (-24 & -20), which is what Audyssey sets for my system. However, listening to Edge of Tomorrow just now at -5 MV (I think my setup is reference at 0), the sine wave bass sweep was scary! Perhaps I am a bass wimp, as an SPL meter I had running only registerd 100db (C weighting, slow), but is it possible to blow up a sub by turning it up too much? I understand that the SVS subs have a protection circuit, does that work, and if so, is it obvious that it is triggered?
Thanks,
Mark

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post #27974 of 31454 Old 04-09-2018, 07:22 PM
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Hi, I am not likely to get there, given my somewhat conservative trim settings in my AV/P (-12 & -11.5 for my two SB16Us) and Sub volume settings (-24 & -20), which is what Audyssey sets for my system. However, listening to Edge of Tomorrow just now at -5 MV (I think my setup is reference at 0), the sine wave bass sweep was scary! Perhaps I am a bass wimp, as an SPL meter I had running only registerd 100db (C weighting, slow), but is it possible to blow up a sub by turning it up too much? I understand that the SVS subs have a protection circuit, does that work, and if so, is it obvious that it is triggered?
Thanks,
Mark
Hi Mark,

As long as you are observing good gain/trim protocol, as I'm pretty sure that you are, then I think it would be hard to damage your subs. Typically, people who melt voice coils, which is the damage that could result, do it by playing something like continuous sine waves at high volumes. As I understand it, over time, heat builds-up faster than the voice coil can dissipate it. But again, that is very rare and wouldn't typically happen from the kind of normal use you just described. A sine wave that only lasts a few seconds shouldn't be a problem for those subs. And, it apparently wasn't.

There may be more than one kind of protection built-into the subs. One type is a limiter which keeps the driver from moving further than it is supposed to. It's partly the excursion that creates SPL. My guess is that your SPL meter was actually registering too low. That can happen with high volumes at low frequencies.

At -5 MV with +5db of sub boost, the LFE channel would have been producing right at 115db, although the subs might not have hit every frequency at that SPL, and you would have benefited from room gain at the low-frequencies. That's pretty intense SPL alright, but I wouldn't expect it to be specifically harmful to your subs. Once you reach the max output limits of your subwoofers, they just stop getting any louder. And, the SVS subs are designed to be pretty bulletproof.

If you are really concerned, Ed Mullen could give you much better information on this entire subject than I can.

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #27975 of 31454 Old 04-09-2018, 07:33 PM
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Hi Mark,

As long as you are observing good gain/trim protocol, as I'm pretty sure that you are, then I think it would be hard to damage your subs. Typically, people who melt voice coils, which is the damage that could result, do it by playing something like continuous sine waves at high volumes. As I understand it, over time, heat builds-up faster than the voice coil can dissipate it. But again, that is very rare and wouldn't typically happen from the kind of normal use you just described. A sine wave that only lasts a few seconds shouldn't be a problem for those subs. And, it apparently wasn't.

There may be more than one kind of protection built-into the subs. One type is a limiter which keeps the driver from moving further than it is supposed to. It's partly the excursion that creates SPL. My guess is that your SPL meter was actually registering too low. That can happen with high volumes at low frequencies.

At -5 MV with +5db of sub boost, the LFE channel would have been producing right at 115db, although the subs might not have hit every frequency at that SPL, and you would have benefited from room gain at the low-frequencies. That's pretty intense SPL alright, but I wouldn't expect it to be specifically harmful to your subs. Once you reach the max output limits of your subwoofers, they just stop getting any louder. And, the SVS subs are designed to be pretty bulletproof.

If you are really concerned, Ed Mullen could give you much better information on this entire subject than I can.

Regards,
Mike
Hi Mike, on your comment that it apparently didn't hurt anything, I admit it sounded so good I went back and played it again a couple of times!
I also checked and as you suspected my spl meter isn't likely reading high enough on the low frequencies I was playing. I might try it with my REW UMIK-1 mic and see what it shows. I am beginning to see why you read about fellows getting 4 enormous subs in their HT rooms. It is addictive.
Best,
Mark
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post #27976 of 31454 Old 04-10-2018, 06:36 AM
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Regards,
Mike
Hey Mike. In regards to the above phase advise does this still hold true when you are using Audyssey xt32 and utilizing both sub outs? My understanding had been there should be no need to adjust phase or distance at least on subs independently but you could do the sub distance tweak (equally on both subs) for better integration with mains (which worked very well for me). In what scenerios would adjusting phase on a single sub using xt32 be recommended? Right now I do have a front and rear sub. Thanks.[/QUOTE]

FWIW, I use XT32 with SubEQ and two separate sub outs on my AV/P, and it definitely improved things for me, both REW plot and subjective listening.
Mark.[/QUOTE]

Same here - albeit with ARC, not Audyssey. Two counter-opposing subs on side walls, big dip in the 50Hz area, changed phase of one sub to 180 - and it REALLY brought back a lot of missing bass and dramatically diminished the 50Hz dip, not entirely, but a lot! Graphs nicely demonstrated this, much nicer for the ears, better overall integration.
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post #27977 of 31454 Old 04-10-2018, 08:12 AM
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Svs customer service is awesome

I wanted to Thank Jack at SVS Tech Support for being patient with me ( I interrupted him several times) while he explained how to adjust the DSP on my PB 13 Ultra for my two channel NAD equipment (TT&R2R). WOW my vinyl and R2R sound AWESOME with the sub adjusted correctly. We get spoiled with Audyssey/YAPO etc setting everything from the AVR. I still need to read more about "Q" settings and why the different dB per octave for when I go sealed or open. Another Old Dog learning a new trick, never had a sub with DSP before. I sure do like it now that I understand most of it.

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post #27978 of 31454 Old 04-10-2018, 08:54 AM
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I wanted to Thank Jack at SVS Tech Support for being patient with me ( I interrupted him several times) while he explained how to adjust the DSP on my PB 13 Ultra for my two channel NAD equipment (TT&R2R). WOW my vinyl and R2R sound AWESOME with the sub adjusted correctly. We get spoiled with Audyssey/YAPO etc setting everything from the AVR. I still need to read more about "Q" settings and why the different dB per octave for when I go sealed or open. Another Old Dog learning a new trick, never had a sub with DSP before. I sure do like it now that I understand most of it.
Glad you were able to dial in your vinyl and R2R sources...Jack is a great guy! Have to chuckle a bit thinking that some folks here don't know what an R2R is...LOL! Anyway, OT, but I recall you mentioning a repair facility you use in California. Would you mind PM'ing me that company's info as I may need to have some work done on my classic Teac. Thanks in advance!
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post #27979 of 31454 Old 04-10-2018, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by gene4ht View Post
Glad you were able to dial in your vinyl and R2R sources...Jack is a great guy! Have to chuckle a bit thinking that some folks here don't know what an R2R is...LOL! Anyway, OT, but I recall you mentioning a repair facility you use in California. Would you mind PM'ing me that company's info as I may need to have some work done on my classic Teac. Thanks in advance!
PM sent, IIRC Marc Bishop aka "Tinman" on the tape forums works on TEAC too, my favorite was the X1000R http://www.tapeheads.net/showthread.php?t=16504
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post #27980 of 31454 Old 04-10-2018, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

It's certainly possible. The only real question is whether it is advisable? There is enough difference in the frequency response of the two subs that they might not play well together. (Although they might.) And, the SB4000 has a good bit more output than the SB2000 does. So, in a small room, you might not be able to use all of the output of a 4000, while keeping from overtaxing the 2000. In a larger room, you could position the 2000 much closer to you, than the 4000, to compensate for the difference in their output. But, in a 10' by 10' room, I'm not sure that the distance difference would be enough to matter.

You mentioned in a previous post that you were considering a PB2000, so it's clear that you have upgraditis. I understand that feeling very well and I'm not knocking it. I have been there. But, one thing that I can't tell is whether you are actually lacking something in your bass, or whether you are just concerned that you might be? Based on what you said earlier about your settings, you should still have a lot of headroom left.

If I were you, the first thing I would do is to put on something with some serious and sustained low bass, like The Hulk, or Batman Versus Supermen, or a number of others, and I would start to push my subs. Turn the gain on both of them up from the 12:00 position to the 1:00 position, and see what happens. Crank your master volume a little more. How do the subs sound? In a 100^2 room, you should be getting serious room gain starting at about 30Hz or higher. So, low-frequency extension shouldn't be a problem, even with the SB2000's, and neither should total output.

But, if you do that test, and are still curious, then I think your next best path would be dual SB4000's. I think that in a small room, staying with two subs of the same size and type will work better. And, as much as I like ported subs, it is hard for me to recommend dual ported subs in a room that is less than 1000^3 (probably only about 800^3 assuming a roughly 8' ceiling).

I'm not counseling you against upgrading. That would be unAVS-like. I am just trying to help you define why you want to upgrade, and what if anything you may be missing that your SB2000's can't give you. If you do want more of something, push your current subs hard in an effort to discover what it is.

Regards,
Mike


Edit: I decided to add something to my earlier post. There is a direct link to a subwoofer buyer's guide linked below. It will explain some of the differences between sealed and ported subs, and it may help you to figure out what you are looking for. Just ahead of that is a section on room gain that may also provide a little context with respect to what you can expect.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-su...erences.html#I
Thanks mike for all the info, it has been very helpful. What I did last night is raise the gain on both subs to 1 o'clock and raised my trim level on the receiver sw1 was set to -4.5 and sw2 was set to -6.0. I put it the incredible hulk and was extremely happy with the results, it sounded great at least to me. When adjusting sub woofers I am always concerned with making the bass to over powering so that is probably part of my issue. Online it seems quite a few people have posted that they are running the gains on their svs subs at 2' oclock. Which seems kind of high to me, I think I am quite happy with it at 1.

I am very happy with the SB 2000 subs, but I still will probably eventually upgrade to the SB 4000.

Thanks again.
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post #27981 of 31454 Old 04-10-2018, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by confinoj View Post
I have dual PC-4000s. Thinking of running them both wireless off a single sub out in rear corners. Is there any difference between using an RCA splitter or daisy chaining using the RCA out on one sub? Is it just an internal splitter? Any added delay or attenuation with RCA line out?
Well I answered my own question with a little more searching. Ed Mullen posted the following back in December 2017. Seems daisy chaining is model dependent and 4000 series should be fine.

"The low pass filter on any SVS subwoofer amplifier has no effect whatsoever on the line-out signal.

Whether or not a subwoofer can be daisy-chained depends on the model:

The Sledge 300/Sledge 500 in the 1000/2000 series have a fixed 80 Hz high pass on the line-out (cannot be daisy-chained).

The Sledge 400 in the NSD subwoofers has both an unfiltered line out (can be daisy-chained) and a filtered line out (cannot be daisy-chained). Provided you are using the unfiltered line out, the downstream SB-2000 will receive the same signal as your SB12-NSD.

The Sledge 800/1000 in the Plus/Ultra 13 series has a programmable high pass on the line-outs which can be disabled. So it can be daisy-chained with the high pass disabled. With that said, the signal undergoes an AD/DA conversion even if the high pass is disabled, and this creates a small amount of DSP latency on the outgoing signal. So it would be my preference to use an external splitter on the Sledge 800/1000 amps if possible.

The Sledge 1200/1500 in the 4000-series and 16-Ultra series has an unfiltered line out, which does not undergo any sort of DSP. So it can be daisy-chained."

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post #27982 of 31454 Old 04-11-2018, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi Mark,

As long as you are observing good gain/trim protocol, as I'm pretty sure that you are, then I think it would be hard to damage your subs. Typically, people who melt voice coils, which is the damage that could result, do it by playing something like continuous sine waves at high volumes. As I understand it, over time, heat builds-up faster than the voice coil can dissipate it. But again, that is very rare and wouldn't typically happen from the kind of normal use you just described. A sine wave that only lasts a few seconds shouldn't be a problem for those subs. And, it apparently wasn't.

There may be more than one kind of protection built-into the subs. One type is a limiter which keeps the driver from moving further than it is supposed to. It's partly the excursion that creates SPL. My guess is that your SPL meter was actually registering too low. That can happen with high volumes at low frequencies.

At -5 MV with +5db of sub boost, the LFE channel would have been producing right at 115db, although the subs might not have hit every frequency at that SPL, and you would have benefited from room gain at the low-frequencies. That's pretty intense SPL alright, but I wouldn't expect it to be specifically harmful to your subs. Once you reach the max output limits of your subwoofers, they just stop getting any louder. And, the SVS subs are designed to be pretty bulletproof.

If you are really concerned, Ed Mullen could give you much better information on this entire subject than I can.

Regards,
Mike
The SPL meter should be set to C/Fast if you are trying to measure peaks.

Due to the C-weighted filter it will read progressively lower as the frequency goes deeper.

This chart shows the response curves for various filters. As you can see, the C-weighted filter will read about 6-7 dB low at 20 Hz and about 12-13 dB low at 10 Hz. And some of the tones in that EoT scene do reach about that deep.

So be sure to add the correction factor to the SPL peaks the meter is displaying to get the actual unweighted SPL. Access to the spectral charts for these scenes will help you identify the frequencies in question so you can be more accurate with the correction factor.

Also, the expected/anticipated SPL peak on a given scene depends on a host of variables - how hot the sub is running, the master volume setting, dialnorm, DD vs DTS, the digital encoding level of the bass peak in the LFE channel (most are not necessarily encoded at 0 dBFS), and also how many other speaker channels (besides the LFE channel) also have bass in them at the same time (and their respective encoding levels).
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post #27983 of 31454 Old 04-11-2018, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Canuck31 View Post
So I bought an SVS PB-1000 used online and it doesn't work. The power light comes on but no sound. I connected it via the LFE to my AVR. I've tried using my phones headphone out to RCA to check the input but no sound from that either. I've talked to SVS and they told me to check the connections inside the sub with a 9V battery. Well I unscrewed the amp but the screw heads are crappy and now two of them are stripped. I can't get them back into the sub completely as the screw driver just spins in the screw head. My first foray into SVS and it's not going well to say the least. Any suggestions?
If you have light but no sound it could be any of the following:

  • a dead amp
  • a loose connection between the amp and the woofer
  • a dead woofer

If you stripped out the screw heads, we can send you more of them. And makes sure you are using the correct bit drive (3 mm hex).

If necessary, use some easy-outs (screw extractor) to remove all the screws.

Check for a loose/hanging spade connector at the driver. If the spades are tight, disconnect the amp leads and bump test the woofer by connecting a 9V battery to a pair of unfolded paper clips inserted into the amp lead openings. Make sure the paper clips are small enough to make contact with the metal inside the amp leads.

If the woofer bumps, it's a dead amp. We can send you a replacement if the subwoofer is still under warranty. Send us the SN (if you haven't already).

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post #27984 of 31454 Old 04-11-2018, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by nodoubt View Post
is 100 deg f at the top of the amp plate normal , basically idling along, with no heavy bass tracks?
gain stays on about - 18 or so.
just got a new sb 4000, and was just wondering.
i would think it should barely be warm, not being stressed.

thanks...
The amp will pull about 23W from the line in On mode when idling. A temp of 100F is normal when dissipating this amount of power as heat.

The amp will pull <0.5W from the line in Standby mode. Make sure the amp is set to Auto in your app. After 30 min in Standby, the amp should be cool to touch.

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post #27985 of 31454 Old 04-11-2018, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ILoveTeufelSub View Post
Hi, is there a way to reset the pb13 (sledge) to factory settings?
No - you need to scroll through the menu and just make sure the various menu functions are set to zero or disabled. We can assist you with this by phone if you call into SVS CS 877-626-5623. Thanks.
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post #27986 of 31454 Old 04-11-2018, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
If you have light but no sound it could be any of the following:

  • a dead amp
  • a loose connection between the amp and the woofer
  • a dead woofer

If you stripped out the screw heads, we can send you more of them. And makes sure you are using the correct bit drive (3 mm hex).

If necessary, use some easy-outs (screw extractor) to remove all the screws.

Check for a loose/hanging spade connector at the driver. If the spades are tight, disconnect the amp leads and bump test the woofer by connecting a 9V battery to a pair of unfolded paper clips inserted into the amp lead openings. Make sure the paper clips are small enough to make contact with the metal inside the amp leads.

If the woofer bumps, it's a dead amp. We can send you a replacement if the subwoofer is still under warranty. Send us the SN (if you haven't already).
I’m sending the sub to SVS tomorrow. I’ve already gotten shipping labels and such from them.
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post #27987 of 31454 Old 04-11-2018, 06:03 PM
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To the PC4000 and former PC13 Ultra owners, is there a noticable upgrade difference?

Right now I'm running my Ultra with my old PC12 NSD. I want to replace my pc12, but can't decide if I want to add a used ultra or go dual pc4000.

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post #27988 of 31454 Old 04-11-2018, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by eightninesuited View Post
To the PC4000 and former PC13 Ultra owners, is there a noticable upgrade difference?

Right now I'm running my Ultra with my old PC12 NSD. I want to replace my pc12, but can't decide if I want to add a used ultra or go dual pc4000.
I moved from dual pc12+ to dual pc-4000 so can’t directly answer your question as I obviously moved up a level. I had considered dual pc13 ultras from the outlet but decided I wanted to have the newer tech so I would minimize upgraditis for several years. I have to say having complete control of the sub and dsp functions via my phone has really been handy especially if you like to tinker. I’m still experimenting with placement and trying to optimize with REW so being able to make quick changes to both subs has been very convenient. Even once you get them dialed in and want to sometimes add some extras sub boost without going too high on AVR trim to avoid clipping it’s nice to be able to increase gain from the couch. While there is likely a performance difference betweeen the two I would imagine it’s subtle but hopefully others can chime in on that point.

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post #27989 of 31454 Old 04-12-2018, 07:32 AM
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Unhappy New SVS SB1000 screwed up

Hi, I have been waiting for the SVS SB1000 for 2 weeks to deliver from oversea and unbox today.
The manual there written input voltage as below:-



It says covering 100-240V, great, so i connect to my power socket and switch on power. BOOM ! i heard.

I turned to the back of the subwoofer and saw this:-


WTF !? So the brand new subwoofer has just been killed by the misleading manual? Yeah i am dumb for not having a look at the back panel, but why the manual gave the wrong info at the first place?

I hope it is only the fuse the blew off, but I found no replaceable fuse from the back panel, is there a fuse inside that can be easily replaced?
I do not have 300W step down transformer from 220V to 110V, but i have one 80W unit. The subwoofer has no response when power on with the converter, so it is basically dead

Please advise, thanks.

Last edited by iieeann; 04-12-2018 at 07:35 AM.
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post #27990 of 31454 Old 04-12-2018, 07:39 AM
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call svs and they will offer a refund or they might have an applicable amp they could send out faster and have you replace it (easy to do)
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