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post #29251 of 31618 Old 10-08-2018, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Christian Prezgay View Post
I have a SVS PB2ISD that's been sitting in the corner of my family room for a couple of years unused. I just put it in the garage, but still works great. Just come to Orange County to pick it up (near the Brea Mall).

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For those unfamiliar with or curious about the PB2-ISD...

https://www.audioholics.com/subwoofe...-sound-pb2-isd
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post #29252 of 31618 Old 10-09-2018, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Christian Prezgay View Post
I have a SVS PB2ISD that's been sitting in the corner of my family room for a couple of years unused. I just put it in the garage, but still works great. Just come to Orange County to pick it up (near the Brea Mall).

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I Googled PB 21SD NOTHING.My guess typo maybe PB 12 NSD???

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post #29253 of 31618 Old 10-09-2018, 06:53 AM
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Post just above yours - PB2-ISD.
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post #29254 of 31618 Old 10-09-2018, 01:43 PM
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Pb 16

Hi guys,

Thanks for all your help and advice guys. I ended up going with the PB 16. It finally arrived Tuesday and my first imprecision was laughter when I saw how big the box was. Laughter quickly turning into pain having to get it up 3 flights of stairs. Anyway after using Audyssey I got it to -10.5 on the receiver with Sub volume at -14. I ended up boosting it to -5.5 on the receiver. Just one thing I was wondering if it needs to be boosted at all in the receiver and also does anyone use the movie/music presets. I haven't been able to figure out if they do anything besides taking the volume back to -10.
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post #29255 of 31618 Old 10-09-2018, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by bigzee3 View Post
Hi guys,

Thanks for all your help and advice guys. I ended up going with the PB 16. It finally arrived Tuesday and my first imprecision was laughter when I saw how big the box was. Laughter quickly turning into pain having to get it up 3 flights of stairs. Anyway after using Audyssey I got it to -10.5 on the receiver with Sub volume at -14. I ended up boosting it to -5.5 on the receiver. Just one thing I was wondering if it needs to be boosted at all in the receiver and also does anyone use the movie/music presets. I haven't been able to figure out if they do anything besides taking the volume back to -10.

Hi,

Congratulations! Other than carrying it up the stairs, I hope that you like the PB16.

There is no particular reason, other than convenience, to use the AVR to add subwoofer boosts. Stopping at about -5.5 is a good idea, so if you decide to add any more subwoofer boost, I would use the subwoofer amp to do it. My own strategy is to set my sub gains high enough so that somewhere around -5 or -6 will be the highest subwoofer AVR trim I ever use. Then, I can use the AVR remote to decrease the subwoofer volume rather than increase it. So, for instance, I may go down to -8 or -9 on a movie with a lot of really strong bass content, and then come back up to -6 or so, for a more normal action movie. That way, I never exceed -5 with the AVR trim.

My gains typically stay at -10 anyway (just by coincidence) so I didn't know that switching modes takes the gain back to a default -10 setting. When you use the pre-programmed Music Mode, the internal DSP introduces a +2.2db peak, centered on 63Hz. That mid-sixties frequency range is prime chest punch territory, so boosting the mid-bass in that range may be particularly enjoyable for music, and for some movies as well. I don't believe that the Movie Mode adds anything, but you can use the internal DSP to add a low-bass peak of your own if you want to.

Regards,
Mike
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Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #29256 of 31618 Old 10-09-2018, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

Congratulations! Other than carrying it up the stairs, I hope that you like the PB16.

There is no particular reason, other than convenience, to use the AVR to add subwoofer boosts. Stopping at about -5.5 is a good idea, so if you decide to add any more subwoofer boost, I would use the subwoofer amp to do it. My own strategy is to set my sub gains high enough so that somewhere around -5 or -6 will be the highest subwoofer AVR trim I ever use. Then, I can use the AVR remote to decrease the subwoofer volume rather than increase it. So, for instance, I may go down to -8 or -9 on a movie with a lot of really strong bass content, and then come back up to -6 or so, for a more normal action movie. That way, I never exceed -5 with the AVR trim.

My gains typically stay at -10 anyway (just by coincidence) so I didn't know that switching modes takes the gain back to a default -10 setting. When you use the pre-programmed Music Mode, the internal DSP introduces a +2.2db peak, centered on 63Hz. That mid-sixties frequency range is prime chest punch territory, so boosting the mid-bass in that range may be particularly enjoyable for music, and for some movies as well. I don't believe that the Movie Mode adds anything, but you can use the internal DSP to add a low-bass peak of your own if you want to.

Regards,
Mike
Thanks Mike,

Excellent info. So now that I have set the AVR sub gain to -5.5 from the original -10.5 am I correct in saying that if I want to turn it up a bit more it should be on the Sub volume and not turning up the AVR gain past -5.5. The sub volume is at -14 after Audyssey and I normally don't go higher than -10 on the AVR volume which is plenty for me anyway. I did use Music preset and bumped it up from Sub volume -14 to -12. It worked for me.
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post #29257 of 31618 Old 10-09-2018, 06:41 PM
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PC-4000 for Stereo

Several months ago, I purchased a pair of PC-4000s for my stereo. I prefer them sealed. The two stereo speakers are run off of the balanced outputs on the preamp and the subs are run off of the unbalanced outputs. Because this is an analogue preamp, I used the low pass filter on the subs at 80 hz. I leveled them, adjusted gain and then ran dirac on a minidsp DDRC-22D. The reason I purchased the minidsp is because the room the stereo is in doesn't permit movement of either the speakers or subwoofers. The speakers are actually placed pretty well but there was really no choice about sub placement. Limited space is also why I purchased the PC-4000s. The minidsp is digital so it is placed between the modified Sonos connect and the Bryston DAC. I then ran 10-15 possible target curves before settling on the best for our situation. The result is excellent. The reason that I connected the speakers and subs the way I did is because that was what was suggested both by technical support from minidsp and SVS.
The reason I added the subs to the stereo after many years of pleasure just running the speakers unaided is that after adding the SB16 Ultras to our surround system (replacing very good ported subs), the stereo suddenly felt as if it was missing richness, even though the speakers are rated by their manufacturer down to 28 hz. We are certainly pleased that we made the addition. We rarely play the stereo above a moderate level but the sound is now rich and full.
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post #29258 of 31618 Old 10-11-2018, 02:47 AM
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Do you see what I see in this photo? That's new. These were displayed at the recent China Audio Show.

Bass, please. Shaken, not stirred.
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post #29259 of 31618 Old 10-11-2018, 03:23 AM
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^ my guess is a redesigned pb2000 based on the driver and size.
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post #29260 of 31618 Old 10-11-2018, 06:20 AM
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Do you see what I see in this photo? That's new. These were displayed at the recent China Audio Show.
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^ my guess is a redesigned pb2000 based on the driver and size.
This was posted earlier. One thought was a new 3000 series which it seems they are setting themselves up for with new naming scheme and discontinuation of 12-plus series.

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post #29261 of 31618 Old 10-11-2018, 08:05 AM
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This was posted earlier. One thought was a new 3000 series which it seems they are setting themselves up for with new naming scheme and discontinuation of 12-plus series.


That would be cool! I’m looking forward to a pc-3000 option, hopefully it would look like the pc-2000/4000 with the sound path feet.

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post #29262 of 31618 Old 10-11-2018, 11:13 AM
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PB16 Standard or Extended mode

Hi guys,

I recently got my PB16 and have been running it in standard mode. Was wondering which mode everyone is running the PBs they have and if any benefit running one mode over the other. My PB is set at -14 after Audyssey set up which gave me -10.5 in the AVR. I've done a boost taking me to -5.5 in the AVR. Normally I don't listen to Movies any higher -10 on receiver volume. So would using extended mode over the standard mode benefit my set up.
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post #29263 of 31618 Old 10-11-2018, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by bigzee3 View Post
Hi guys,

I recently got my PB16 and have been running it in standard mode. Was wondering which mode everyone is running the PBs they have and if any benefit running one mode over the other. My PB is set at -14 after Audyssey set up which gave me -10.5 in the AVR. I've done a boost taking me to -5.5 in the AVR. Normally I don't listen to Movies any higher -10 on receiver volume. So would using extended mode over the standard mode benefit my set up.
I have a pair of PB16's. I've tried them in standard than went to extended. It's a little less volume in extended, to my ears anyways. It's possible I'm just getting used to them as well. I'm at -10 on the subs and my MCACC is at -7.5 & -8.0. Extended mode digs deeper down to 13 Hz vs. standard at 15 Hz. I've normally watched movies around -25 to -20 with my old DCM speakers. With my SVS Ultra Bookshelves & Center I'm watching at -15 to -10 now.
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Last edited by BigART71; 10-11-2018 at 11:25 AM.
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post #29264 of 31618 Old 10-11-2018, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by BigART71 View Post
I have a pair of PB16's. I've tried them in standard than went to extended. It's a little less volume in extended, to my ears anyways. It's possible I'm just getting used to them as well. I'm at -10 on the subs and my MCACC is at -7.5 & -8.0. Extended mode digs deeper down to 13 Hz vs. standard at 15 Hz. I've normally watched movies around -25 to -20 with my old DCM speakers. With my SVS Ultra Bookshelves & Center I'm watching at -15 to -10 now.
Two 16s would be cool. My wife hasn't stopped shaking her head every time she walks past the one I have.
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post #29265 of 31618 Old 10-11-2018, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by bigzee3 View Post
Hi guys,

I recently got my PB16 and have been running it in standard mode. Was wondering which mode everyone is running the PBs they have and if any benefit running one mode over the other. My PB is set at -14 after Audyssey set up which gave me -10.5 in the AVR. I've done a boost taking me to -5.5 in the AVR. Normally I don't listen to Movies any higher -10 on receiver volume. So would using extended mode over the standard mode benefit my set up.

Hi,

I think that a lot depends on whether you have enough overall bass SPL to satisfy you, to start with. And, it also depends somewhat on the listening material. For instance, some movies don't have a lot of content below 20Hz anyway. But, for those that do have <20Hz content, the Extended Mode can make a lot of difference. (Whether or not you are on a suspended wood floor or on a concrete slab could also make a difference. Concrete doesn't conduct low-frequency vibrations in the way that a suspended wood floor does.)

In the Standard Mode, you will gain about 2db at about 30 to 35Hz (where it is more audible) and you will gain about 1db above those frequencies, compared to the Extended Mode. On the other hand, you would gain a whopping 7+ db at 16Hz in Extended Mode. In the 16Hz mode, you might need to add another decibel of subwoofer boost, compared to Standard Mode, to hear the same amount of mid-bass. But, when there is <20Hz content, the Extended Mode will create much stronger low-bass sounds and tactile sensations.

It will also consume a little more subwoofer headroom, which is why I started by saying that having adequate headroom to start with is a factor. This is strictly a YMMV question, and everyone needs to decide it independently. But, there is a reason that the PB16 was designed to have a 16Hz tuning mode. They are intended to be low-frequency specialists. Otherwise, we could just get the same results from having a PB13 and operating it in the extended mode. The PB16 was specifically designed to add ~4db, from 35Hz down, to the capabilities of the PB13. Depending on the room, and on the bass content, that additional 4db below 35Hz can be very helpful, and so can having +7db below 20Hz.

Regards,
Mike
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* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

Last edited by mthomas47; 10-11-2018 at 11:46 AM.
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post #29266 of 31618 Old 10-11-2018, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by bigzee3 View Post
Hi guys,

I recently got my PB16 and have been running it in standard mode. Was wondering which mode everyone is running the PBs they have and if any benefit running one mode over the other. My PB is set at -14 after Audyssey set up which gave me -10.5 in the AVR. I've done a boost taking me to -5.5 in the AVR. Normally I don't listen to Movies any higher -10 on receiver volume. So would using extended mode over the standard mode benefit my set up.
I'm using two pb13s on concrete and I've done a lot of testing back and forth. For my use case however, the pb13s don't offer enough output below 20hz to be worth it in the 16hz mode. I'm in a large room and on concrete so in addition to not being able to hear 16hz I can't feel it either.

Although iI do run the PB13s at max gain all the time so the distortion is noticeable in certain scenes with lots of sub sonic frequencies(at high output). While it doesn't sound bad in the 20hz mode, the 16hz mode simply sounds deeper and more accurate as there is far less higher harmonic distortion.

However, I think it's best to hook up REW or get an SPL meter and just do a direct comparison between the two modes. Although you should only be losing 1-2dB switching modes, I personally lose about 3-6db in the 20-30hz range by switching to the 16hz mode, and since there is so much more content above 20hz in movies and music--all ports open is the way I've decided to run them.
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post #29267 of 31618 Old 10-11-2018, 03:18 PM
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Having used my dual PB13’s in extended mode for a number of months and now switching to standard mode for the past few months, I definitely prefer the standard mode in my room. The extended mode produced way too many annoying rattles/noises for my liking and tbh, I don’t miss the extra dB down low as much as I thought I would. Chasing down and obsessing about the annoying vibrations in my room completely removed me from the experience. Stupid OCD...after awhile it’s all I can think about. Lol
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post #29268 of 31618 Old 10-11-2018, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

I think that a lot depends on whether you have enough overall bass SPL to satisfy you, to start with. And, it also depends somewhat on the listening material. For instance, some movies don't have a lot of content below 20Hz anyway. But, for those that do have <20Hz content, the Extended Mode can make a lot of difference. (Whether or not you are on a suspended wood floor or on a concrete slab could also make a difference. Concrete doesn't conduct low-frequency vibrations in the way that a suspended wood floor does.)

In the Standard Mode, you will gain about 2db at about 30 to 35Hz (where it is more audible) and you will gain about 1db above those frequencies, compared to the Extended Mode. On the other hand, you would gain a whopping 7+ db at 16Hz in Extended Mode. In the 16Hz mode, you might need to add another decibel of subwoofer boost, compared to Standard Mode, to hear the same amount of mid-bass. But, when there is <20Hz content, the Extended Mode will create much stronger low-bass sounds and tactile sensations.

It will also consume a little more subwoofer headroom, which is why I started by saying that having adequate headroom to start with is a factor. This is strictly a YMMV question, and everyone needs to decide it independently. But, there is a reason that the PB16 was designed to have a 16Hz tuning mode. They are intended to be low-frequency specialists. Otherwise, we could just get the same results from having a PB13 and operating it in the extended mode. The PB16 was specifically designed to add ~4db, from 35Hz down, to the capabilities of the PB13. Depending on the room, and on the bass content, that additional 4db below 35Hz can be very helpful, and so can having +7db below 20Hz.

Regards,
Mike
Mike,

Forgot to ask do I need to rerun Audyssey if I change modes. Also I know you mentioned using the Music preset for movies. When using the music preset do you need to back off your sub volume or adjust the gain in AVR or is that just an add on to your normal settings.
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post #29269 of 31618 Old 10-11-2018, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkEnigma View Post
I'm using two pb13s on concrete and I've done a lot of testing back and forth. For my use case however, the pb13s don't offer enough output below 20hz to be worth it in the 16hz mode. I'm in a large room and on concrete so in addition to not being able to hear 16hz I can't feel it either.

Although iI do run the PB13s at max gain all the time so the distortion is noticeable in certain scenes with lots of sub sonic frequencies(at high output). While it doesn't sound bad in the 20hz mode, the 16hz mode simply sounds deeper and more accurate as there is far less higher harmonic distortion.

However, I think it's best to hook up REW or get an SPL meter and just do a direct comparison between the two modes. Although you should only be losing 1-2dB switching modes, I personally lose about 3-6db in the 20-30hz range by switching to the 16hz mode, and since there is so much more content above 20hz in movies and music--all ports open is the way I've decided to run them.
Did you mix up what you were saying in paragraph 2? Because it seems like you prefer the standard mode based on the closing paragraph.
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post #29270 of 31618 Old 10-11-2018, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by bigzee3 View Post
Mike,

Forgot to ask do I need to rerun Audyssey if I change modes. Also I know you mentioned using the Music preset for movies. When using the music preset do you need to back off your sub volume or adjust the gain in AVR or is that just an add on to your normal settings.

Let me start with the first question, which is actually more complicated than it sounds. The correct answer is yes, you should rerun Audyssey if you change modes. But, there are circumstances where I wouldn't do that. Audyssey's goal is to produce a flat frequency response, down to the point where your bass frequency response rolls-off by 3db. Below that F3 point, Audyssey will no longer set control points to correct dips or peaks.

But, in-room, there really shouldn't be any dips below about 20Hz, even in a fairly large room. By the time your frequency response is below 20Hz, in most rooms, you should no longer be dealing with room modes, and you should only be getting pressure vessel gain. You can read more about that, including how to calculate room modes in your room, in Section VII-B of the Guide linked below.

What is more likely, depending on the size of the room, of course, is that Audyssey will be pulling-down room-induced peaks below 20Hz, rather than trying to pull-up dips. So, if you want a low-bass rising house curve (like a Harman Curve) Audyssey may actually be working against you a little in that respect. A way to get around that is to run Audyssey in the Standard 20Hz mode, and then without rerunning Audyssey, switch to the 16Hz Extended mode.

Being able to actually measure your frequency response would be beneficial and if you did, what you should see and hear, is that you have more <20Hz SPL when you do this. The reason that this works better in a smaller room than it does in a large one is because the smaller room has quite a bit more room gain to contribute <20Hz than the large room does. So, room size is definitely a factor in determining how well this method works, but it is certainly something you can try.

I didn't actually like the 2.2db boost, centered on 63Hz, baked into the Music preset. Instead, I use a technique called cascading crossovers that I like much better. That also provides a little more emphasis to the <80Hz frequencies, but it is a broader, more global emphasis that I think is much smoother and clearer. Section III-C explains cascading crossovers in detail, if you are interested.

If I were using the Music preset, though, I would just be governed by what I heard. If I felt that the bass were a little too loud, I would back-off the trim level a little. Understanding where in the frequency range you want to add bass emphasis is important, because that helps you to understand what techniques or settings you need to use to achieve your personal goals. And, those goals may vary, depending on the specific program material you are listening to, or depending on your own bass preferences in that particular listening session.

The very best advice, in my opinion, is to be willing to experiment to discover what works best for your room, your audio system, and your personal preferences. And, for some people at least, it's not just program material that can vary. So can our bass preferences, depending on our moods, or circadian rhythms, or phases of the moon, or whatever.

Regards,
Mike
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* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

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post #29271 of 31618 Old 10-11-2018, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Let me start with the first question, which is actually more complicated than it sounds. The correct answer is yes, you should rerun Audyssey if you change modes. But, there are circumstances where I wouldn't do that. Audyssey's goal is to produce a flat frequency response, down to the point where your bass frequency response rolls-off by 3db. Below that F3 point, Audyssey will no longer set control points to correct dips or peaks.

But, in-room, there really shouldn't be any dips below about 20Hz, even in a fairly large room. By the time your frequency response is below 20Hz, in most rooms, you should no longer be dealing with room modes, and you should only be getting pressure vessel gain. You can read more about that, including how to calculate room modes in your room, in Section VII-B of the Guide linked below.

What is more likely, depending on the size of the room, of course, is that Audyssey will be pulling-down room-induced peaks below 20Hz, rather than trying to pull-up dips. So, if you want a low-bass rising house curve (like a Harman Curve) Audyssey may actually be working against you a little in that respect. A way to get around that is to run Audyssey in the Standard 20Hz mode, and then without rerunning Audyssey, switch to the 16Hz Extended mode.

Being able to actually measure your frequency response would be beneficial and if you did, what you should see and hear, is that you have more <20Hz SPL when you do this. The reason that this works better in a smaller room than it does in a large one is because the smaller room has quite a bit more room gain to contribute <20Hz than the large room does. So, room size is definitely a factor in determining how well this method works, but it is certainly something you can try.

I didn't actually like the 2.2db boost, centered on 63Hz, baked into the Music preset. Instead, I use a technique called cascading crossovers that I like much better. That also provides a little more emphasis to the <80Hz frequencies, but it is a broader, more global emphasis that I think is much smoother and clearer. Section III-C explains cascading crossovers in detail, if you are interested.

If I were using the Music preset, though, I would just be governed by what I heard. If I felt that the bass were a little too loud, I would back-off the trim level a little. Understanding where in the frequency range you want to add bass emphasis is important, because that helps you to understand what techniques or settings you need to use to achieve your personal goals. And, those goals may vary, depending on the specific program material you are listening to, or depending on your own bass preferences in that particular listening session.

The very best advice, in my opinion, is to be willing to experiment to discover what works best for your room, your audio system, and your personal preferences. And, for some people at least, it's not just program material that can vary. So can our bass preferences, depending on our moods, or circadian rhythms, or phases of the moon, or whatever.

Regards,
Mike
Much appreciated.
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post #29272 of 31618 Old 10-11-2018, 06:24 PM
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Having used my dual PB13’s in extended mode for a number of months and now switching to standard mode for the past few months, I definitely prefer the standard mode in my room. The extended mode produced way too many annoying rattles/noises for my liking and tbh, I don’t miss the extra dB down low as much as I thought I would. Chasing down and obsessing about the annoying vibrations in my room completely removed me from the experience. Stupid OCD...after awhile it’s all I can think about. Lol

Same here, and also using dual PB13, in my room on a concrete floor, cover by two layers of thick carpet

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I'm using two pb13s on concrete and I've done a lot of testing back and forth. For my use case however, the pb13s don't offer enough output below 20hz to be worth it in the 16hz mode. I'm in a large room and on concrete so in addition to not being able to hear 16hz I can't feel it either.

Although iI do run the PB13s at max gain all the time so the distortion is noticeable in certain scenes with lots of sub sonic frequencies(at high output). While it doesn't sound bad in the 20hz mode, the 16hz mode simply sounds deeper and more accurate as there is far less higher harmonic distortion.

However, I think it's best to hook up REW or get an SPL meter and just do a direct comparison between the two modes. Although you should only be losing 1-2dB switching modes, I personally lose about 3-6db in the 20-30hz range by switching to the 16hz mode, and since there is so much more content above 20hz in movies and music--all ports open is the way I've decided to run them.
+1

I prefer good output 20Hz and above for my situation, since also having a room on concrete floor, do not add benefit of the lower frequencies from a sub, for tactile feeling. Since trying to feel the bass using lower frequencies, on a concrete, do not play well together. I use some TT, for this purpose.

Ray
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post #29273 of 31618 Old 10-12-2018, 04:14 AM
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Did you mix up what you were saying in paragraph 2? Because it seems like you prefer the standard mode based on the closing paragraph.
I do prefer the 20hz mode. I was just trying to say that the 20hz mode isn't without its compromises. Scenes with primarily subsonic frequencies produce a noticeable amount of higher harmonic distortion.

The scene i'm referencing in particular the Force Awakens interrogation scene. In the 16hz mode I don't hear much besides my walls/room shaking (although it doesn't shake my seat). In the 20hz mode I can actually hear the subs more than I can hear the room shaking which takes away from the immersion.

However this is one scene in one movie and it's quite rare to have such an emphasis on sub 20hz content.
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post #29274 of 31618 Old 10-12-2018, 10:19 AM
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Hi have pb 1000 reallyc wanting to go lower and more accurate. Svs says pb 2000 will get lower and should be a bit quicker due to better amp and aluminum driver a bit better on the transients. Anyone had that result. Room is 2270 ^3 only one chair emo c2 center, sf vener2. 0 sometimes tannoy xt6, or emo ti towers or salk songtowers. Yamaha 5100 controling it

Thanks BP

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post #29275 of 31618 Old 10-12-2018, 10:46 AM
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Hi have pb 1000 reallyc wanting to go lower and more accurate. Svs says pb 2000 will get lower and should be a bit quicker due to better amp and aluminum driver a bit better on the transients. Anyone had that result. Room is 2270 ^3 only one chair emo c2 center, sf vener2. 0 sometimes tannoy xt6, or emo ti towers or salk songtowers. Yamaha 5100 controling it

Thanks BP
PB-2000 is all around a better sub than PB-1000 - lower extension, higher output, more accurate. Would be a noticeable upgrade in that sized room.

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post #29276 of 31618 Old 10-12-2018, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Bplaser View Post
Hi have pb 1000 reallyc wanting to go lower and more accurate. Svs says pb 2000 will get lower and should be a bit quicker due to better amp and aluminum driver a bit better on the transients. Anyone had that result. Room is 2270 ^3 only one chair emo c2 center, sf vener2. 0 sometimes tannoy xt6, or emo ti towers or salk songtowers. Yamaha 5100 controling it

Thanks BP

SVS and others can/will provide the objective reasons but from a pure subjective perspective, the PB-2000 is definitely a worthwhile upgrade. IMO, a 12" driver, associated sized enclosure, and appropriate amp offer a substantial sonic upgrade over a 10" driver. If you are a serious audiophile and movie enthusiast, do not let the larger enclosure size deter you...you won't regret the decision to upgrade...particularly if you are taking advantage of The Bill of Rights!
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post #29277 of 31618 Old 10-12-2018, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Bplaser View Post
Hi have pb 1000 reallyc wanting to go lower and more accurate. Svs says pb 2000 will get lower and should be a bit quicker due to better amp and aluminum driver a bit better on the transients. Anyone had that result. Room is 2270 ^3 only one chair emo c2 center, sf vener2. 0 sometimes tannoy xt6, or emo ti towers or salk songtowers. Yamaha 5100 controling it

Thanks BP
Wanted to also add my own experience. My living room is about 3100cu ft. I started with a PB-1000 and once I realized what good bass was progressed up the SVS line over the next couple years. I moved to the PC-2000 (same as PB-2000) then PC12+, then dual PC12+, then dual PC-4000. The most substantial upgrade was actually the PB-1000 to PC-2000 in my room. The rest were certainly improvements but more incremental.

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post #29278 of 31618 Old 10-12-2018, 01:02 PM
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Wanted to also add my own experience. My living room is about 3100cu ft. I started with a PB-1000 and once I realized what good bass was progressed up the SVS line over the next couple years. I moved to the PC-2000 (same as PB-2000) then PC12+, then dual PC12+, then dual PC-4000. The most substantial upgrade was actually the PB-1000 to PC-2000 in my room. The rest were certainly improvements but more incremental.
I have to agree with confinoj’s comment. My theater is just under 4800cf and dual PB-2000’s were more than adequate for this space. The PB-2000’s were capable of pressurizing my space and provided smooth, powerful, and punchy bass performance for all the blockbuster action movie suspects. Also noteworthy are the clean and IMO the excellent sound signature of the 2000’s bass. Even though I’ve also upgraded, I consider the PB-2000’s to be the real foundation of true bass performance. Good luck with your decision!

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post #29279 of 31618 Old 10-12-2018, 05:59 PM
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Failure of resolve

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Hi,

I think that sometimes our desire to experiment is intermittent. We might be satisfied with things exactly as they are for a while, and then we might become curious again. If that happens naturally, rather than obsessively, then where's the harm? One thing that may help, though, is to recognize that not all movies, and/or music, sounds best with identical bass settings.

If you ever get to a particular movie that you think would benefit from the PEQ boost at 27Hz, why not just add it for that specific movie, and then remove it again afterward? Or if you feel like turning down your subs slightly for a particular movie, then why not do that? I certainly do that sometimes with a really bass-intense movie.

Different movies may emphasize different frequencies, and our tastes may also change somewhat, depending on the situation. All of this is just to say that the search for universal perfection in our bass settings is probably obsessive and fruitless. But, if you ever feel like experimenting a little for a particular listening session, then that might be a different thing entirely.

Regards,
Mike
My resolve lasted less than one week. However, as sometimes happens when you step away from a problem, I woke up yesterday morning with what appears to be the solution to my dissatisfaction. Lowered volume in subs by 5 db, which still left 3 over calibration, and re-instituted PEQ at 27 hz except at 4 db. Now I really think I'm done.
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post #29280 of 31618 Old 10-13-2018, 12:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by confinoj View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bplaser View Post
Hi have pb 1000 reallyc wanting to go lower and more accurate. Svs says pb 2000 will get lower and should be a bit quicker due to better amp and aluminum driver a bit better on the transients. Anyone had that result. Room is 2270 ^3 only one chair emo c2 center, sf vener2. 0 sometimes tannoy xt6, or emo ti towers or salk songtowers. Yamaha 5100 controling it

Thanks BP
Wanted to also add my own experience. My living room is about 3100cu ft. I started with a PB-1000 and once I realized what good bass was progressed up the SVS line over the next couple years. I moved to the PC-2000 (same as PB-2000) then PC12+, then dual PC12+, then dual PC-4000. The most substantial upgrade was actually the PB-1000 to PC-2000 in my room. The rest were certainly improvements but more incremental.
Ok that is the info I wanted to hear every speaker i own recomends of pb2000 guess I new iv should have got that first I actually want a larger enclosure as well to match the entertainment center better.

Thanks BP

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