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post #29401 of 31773 Old 10-27-2018, 05:27 PM
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My lying ears

[QUOTE=WLC;56979906]

With the SBs, I can turn the volume in the subs up by 3db after calibration, which is actually over the 2db I used that ARC2 warned me against. So, basically I'm running the subs 5 db over the recommended levels. In addition, I have the PEQ at 27hz, at 5db with 1Q. Doesn't that basically put me at the 9 db increased output on the sealed that I would get on the ported?

Now, I've realized I'm just better off deleting the PEQ and just raising the volume in both subs by another 5db. The lower hz get the same benefit, but now everything sounds better.
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post #29402 of 31773 Old 10-27-2018, 08:08 PM
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Finally done?

Just finished Audyssey calibration for my PB16. Before calibration the sub was set at around 82db with sub volume at -17. After running Audyssey the the Denon set the sub trim to -7 which gives me room for a couple of dB boost without going over -5 and can also decrease if needed that being Mikes advise. I thought I would check the measurements with my RadioShack analog meter. Setting the meter to 70db and checking settings each speaker on average was 1-1.5db lower than 75db so I adjusted accordingly. The sub with needle moving had a reading of between 70-72.5db and moving it from -7 to -5 gave me a reading between 72-74.5. My question is do I stay with the original Audyssey reading or my adjusted RadioShack reading. One other thing was choosing between reference and flat DEQ. As my fronts are 10 feet away and my tears are 5 feet away I went with flat DEQ. Any thoughts guys and both issues.
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post #29403 of 31773 Old 10-27-2018, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by bigzee3 View Post
Finally done?

Just finished Audyssey calibration for my PB16. Before calibration the sub was set at around 82db with sub volume at -17. After running Audyssey the the Denon set the sub trim to -7 which gives me room for a couple of dB boost without going over -5 and can also decrease if needed that being Mikes advise. I thought I would check the measurements with my RadioShack analog meter. Setting the meter to 70db and checking settings each speaker on average was 1-1.5db lower than 75db so I adjusted accordingly. The sub with needle moving had a reading of between 70-72.5db and moving it from -7 to -5 gave me a reading between 72-74.5. My question is do I stay with the original Audyssey reading or my adjusted RadioShack reading. One other thing was choosing between reference and flat DEQ. As my fronts are 10 feet away and my tears are 5 feet away I went with flat DEQ. Any thoughts guys and both issues.

I would trust the reading of the Audyssey over the RadioShack reading.

In my days of using the RadioShack, SPL meters, before the days of Auto calibration. It was know to been not accurate for lower bass frequencies, In those days, I was using a graph corrections table (that I can no longer provide, too many years have past). And not needed with present AVR/AVP now a day.

That said, the Audessey reading are very accurate, and if you wish to go further. Look into REW, here a link;
Getting Started with REW


Ray

Last edited by darthray; 10-27-2018 at 08:43 PM.
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post #29404 of 31773 Old 10-27-2018, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigzee3 View Post
Finally done?

Just finished Audyssey calibration for my PB16. Before calibration the sub was set at around 82db with sub volume at -17. After running Audyssey the the Denon set the sub trim to -7 which gives me room for a couple of dB boost without going over -5 and can also decrease if needed that being Mikes advise. I thought I would check the measurements with my RadioShack analog meter. Setting the meter to 70db and checking settings each speaker on average was 1-1.5db lower than 75db so I adjusted accordingly. The sub with needle moving had a reading of between 70-72.5db and moving it from -7 to -5 gave me a reading between 72-74.5. My question is do I stay with the original Audyssey reading or my adjusted RadioShack reading. One other thing was choosing between reference and flat DEQ. As my fronts are 10 feet away and my tears are 5 feet away I went with flat DEQ. Any thoughts guys and both issues.

I agree with Darth! I would probably trust the Audyssey calibration over the Radio Shack meter for all of the channels. The RS meters cannot read low-frequencies accurately. Even with respect to the regular channels, the RS meter will probably give different readings than Audyssey will. Both the Audyssey microphone and the RS meter are going to have an error factor, and it is unlikely that they would ever exactly coincide.

But, in one sense, your actual (exact) volume level doesn't really matter, anyway. What matters is that all of the speakers and subs are set to the same initial volume with respect to each other. That way, the sound from all of your speakers will be balanced when it reaches your ears. You can turn your master volume up or down, and the sound from all of your speakers will still be balanced with respect to each other.

Of course, your subwoofers are different. Nearly everyone adds sub boosts for reasons explained in the Guide. I could also see changing a trim level (such as your CC or your surrounds) if certain speakers sounded unbalanced to you, or because you couldn't hear dialogue as well as you wanted to. But, I couldn't see doing it because an SPL meter said that the volume level wasn't exactly 75db. Again, the really important thing is that all of the speakers are set to match each other. And, Audyssey does that very well!

With respect to what you prefer for your settings, that will almost certainly vary with different rooms, different speakers, and different listeners. So, if Audyssey Flat and DEQ sound best to you, then they are.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #29405 of 31773 Old 10-28-2018, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaxon1 View Post
Ok thanks for the link..
But do you think i could use Q factor 2.4 on 63hz 6d also or must i have a bigger Q factor for it to work better..? Pros and cons on that..? I Will dig in and read the link u sent me tonight.

Best regards


Curious to know what you settled at. I started trying (today) 60hz, Q2.2, +3db based on what you have written above. Hesitant to go too much louder as I thought it would then draw more attention to the sub?


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Im still testing, have not yet desided./
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post #29406 of 31773 Old 10-28-2018, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post
I would trust the reading of the Audyssey over the RadioShack reading.

In my days of using the RadioShack, SPL meters, before the days of Auto calibration. It was know to been not accurate for lower bass frequencies, In those days, I was using a graph corrections table (that I can no longer provide, too many years have past). And not needed with present AVR/AVP now a day.

That said, the Audessey reading are very accurate, and if you wish to go further. Look into REW, here a link;
Getting Started with REW


Ray

I'd trust the meter over Audyssey. The mic that comes with all AVRs are throw away cheap.

In the end go with your ears and seat of your pants for the ULF.
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post #29407 of 31773 Old 10-29-2018, 12:06 PM
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Radio Shack SPL meter correction table:
https://www.svsound.com/pages/faqs#f...e-measurements

Why is it a bad idea to use your AVR test tones and a SPL meter to check trim levels?
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...a-1726.html#e3
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post #29408 of 31773 Old 10-29-2018, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Bri View Post
<div class="quote-container"><span>Quote:</span>
<div class="quote-block">Originally Posted by <strong>G-star</strong> <a href="/forum/post/0"><img alt="View Post" class="inlineimg" src="/img/forum/go_quote.gif" style=""></a><br><br>
it did once, but got removed. all things SVS tend to provoke strong reactions, and a while back threads were getting derailed/deleted left and right. maybe this one will stick around???<br><br>
glad you're enjoying your new sub...certainly a step up from that klipsch. <img alt="" class="inlineimg" src="https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/images/smilies/cool.gif" style="border:0px solid;" title="Cool"></div>
</div>
<br><br>
Not surprising. Subwoofers seem to inspire rabid devotion, more than any other component that I've seen.<br><br>
I'm not a basher. I have a feeling that I could have been happy with a number of subs that I researched. We're very fortunate that we have access to such wonderful technology and performance from many different companies. Lets all just enjoy our hobby, and the chance to share with others who have this bug. God knows, I've looked long and hard for people in my life who share my level of interest in HT, and haven't had much luck.
I added a svs pbultra16 about a month ago and am very pleased with it.
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post #29409 of 31773 Old 10-29-2018, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
I would trust the reading of the Audyssey over the RadioShack reading.

In my days of using the RadioShack, SPL meters, before the days of Auto calibration. It was know to been not accurate for lower bass frequencies, In those days, I was using a graph corrections table (that I can no longer provide, too many years have past). And not needed with present AVR/AVP now a day.

That said, the Audessey reading are very accurate, and if you wish to go further. Look into REW, here a link;
Getting Started with REW


Ray
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kini62 View Post
I'd trust the meter over Audyssey. The mic that comes with all AVRs are throw away cheap.

In the end go with your ears and seat of your pants for the ULF.
For the mic been cheap, I do agree. But I do not think that the Radio Shack Meter mic, is a lot more expensive, if any.
Due to the extra electronics involve within the unit and was fairly cheap to buy. The ones that do come with the receiver, only do one thing, as been a mic.

A big +1 for, at the end to trust your ears. This what really matter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
Radio Shack SPL meter correction table:
https://www.svsound.com/pages/faqs#f...e-measurements

Why is it a bad idea to use your AVR test tones and a SPL meter to check trim levels?
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...a-1726.html#e3
Thanks for correction link, my link is now long gone, but knew the meter was not accurate for lower frequencies.

In my original post responding to the original poster, I was talking about using the meter, before using corrections from Audyssey, to set the values, since Audyssey do many corrections for any given room.

The reason I mention, if very into-it, REW is the way to go, from what I have been reading since I do not use-it.


Ray
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Last edited by darthray; 10-29-2018 at 07:15 PM.
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post #29410 of 31773 Old 10-29-2018, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Unfortunately, some of the low-bass frequencies are going to go right through the walls of your house, and no soundproofing will stop them. Hopefully, the intervening distance between the detached houses, and your neighbor's exterior wall, will attenuate the bass sufficiently that it won't be too noticeable or bothersome for your neighbor.

The lowest frequencies will travel the longest distance, so if you are concerned about this, that might be another reason to get a pair of 2000's. The PB/PC 4000's will have more low-frequency SPL than the 2000's, and the 16's will have even more than the 4000's. As noted in my previous post, I believe that dual PB16's might have a little more low-bass SPL than you will need anyway, as you should be getting pretty good room gain under about 20Hz.

As you correctly observed from my previous post, it would be better not to mix two different models in a small room. Two matching models (the shapes don't matter) will make level-matching the volume of the subwoofers much easier.

Regards,
Mike
+1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
I’m a little worried about low frequency sound leaking into my neighbors basement (we are detached house) on the side of us that’s closest to the media room with the subs. If I’m soundproofing the ceilings of my basement because of the two subs and wanting to dampen sounds into where rest of my house-will one layer of soundproofing the wall of our house that would be closest to the neighbors house keep sounds (low freq most?) from bleeding into my neighbors space if played loud or not gonna affect sounds? Just want to be considerate...

Unfortunately, as Mike said, very few things can stop Bass from traveling, just one of those law of physics
My Cats, always go hiding before a storm, since their hearing is very accurate, and know it is coming, before we do.

While I do believe in acoustic/sound proofing, for speakers. Bass Trap can only deal with mid Bass frequencies.
The lower ones will travel a lot, and everything

To me, my personal opinion. Is setting the subs at 20Hz, and not chasing the very low frequencies, and use some TT instead for this purpose;
Shakers - Simple/Cheap Hookup - Visual Guide
And also trying this option;
III-C: Cascading Crossovers:

As a back ground about my-self, I use to be a purist, and still believe to get all the bases done right, for proper calibration.
Getting, the ULF from my subs, created too many problem for my room, as unwanted vibration and rattling
The TT link, I have provide, took care of this problem

Also, after trying the Cascading Crossover link, even the purist in me, did like the results better
And now because of this, I will try increasing my 4 ceiling speakers to an extra 0.5dB, and the rear one to +1dB. Just to see if I like it better, and very close to proper calibration, just a preference thing, for been more excited when watching a movie. And if I do not like the results, I can always switch back.


Ray
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Last edited by darthray; 10-29-2018 at 09:48 PM.
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post #29411 of 31773 Old 10-30-2018, 08:24 AM
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I recommend going with the PB-4000. We'll honor the $200 duals discount on the 2nd PB-4000 for up to a year.

And upgrading from the PB-2000 to the PB-4000 is expensive because the 2-way shipping of anything which goes freight is expensive. So this is a less attractive path IMO vs. going with the PB-4000 up front.

For most, Ed's comment/suggestion is valid. However, there is another option if you live within a reasonable driving distance to SVS's warehouse facility in Ohio. With an appropriate vehicle and the willingness to do so, the exchange can occur with no shipping cost. In other words, return your current subs and pick up the new ones yourself. I was able to do so exchanging PB13's for PB16's.

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post #29412 of 31773 Old 10-30-2018, 11:32 AM
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The gain sensitivity of the Sledge STA-300D amp is about 350 mV at full gain. This is the minimum input voltage to drive the amp to full power at the max gain setting.

Naturally at lower gain settings, a higher input voltage will be required to drive the amp to full power - and this is typical behavior for any subwoofer amp.

The 0.9V 2x4 variant will work, but may require a high gain setting on the PB-1000. The 2V version is preferred and will give you some gain headroom.
Hi Ed, thanks for the reply. I think I'll end up getting the simple version of the 2x4, with the 0.9v output.

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post #29413 of 31773 Old 10-31-2018, 04:40 AM
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Hi everyone, kindly need you advise whether to buy pb2000 or just get his smaller brother, I know the pb2000 would be the better choice for sound quality but my concern is that I live in an apartment (Bricks and concrete construction) and since I am going to have it on my bedroom ,it is going to be above my neighbor bedroom and I am mainly watching at night (mostly not exeeding medium sound level) so I am really concerned about possible noise going through my floor to my neigubor bedroom, so would the pb1000 be less noisy or it is completly depends on sound level ? And if turn it that down am I going to benift the pb2000 ?

Realy appreciate any help , thank you.
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post #29414 of 31773 Old 10-31-2018, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by dabdoub81 View Post
Hi everyone, kindly need you advise whether to buy pb2000 or just get his smaller brother, I know the pb2000 would be the better choice for sound quality but my concern is that I live in an apartment (Bricks and concrete construction) and since I am going to have it on my bedroom ,it is going to be above my neighbor bedroom and I am mainly watching at night (mostly not exeeding medium sound level) so I am really concerned about possible noise going through my floor to my neigubor bedroom, so would the pb1000 be less noisy or it is completly depends on sound level ? And if turn it that down am I going to benift the pb2000 ?

Realy appreciate any help , thank you.

The short answer, both will have the lower frequencies, travelling through walls/ceiling and floor. Just the law of physics, when playing lower frequencies, those lower sound will travel a long way. Even if set at the same playing volume, only turning down the sub will help.

If I were you, I would still get the PB-2000, for been a better sub. Who know what in a few years, your living arrangement will be. Meaning if you move to place where the sub can be played louder, you will not have to replace the PB-1000.


Ray

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post #29415 of 31773 Old 10-31-2018, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
The short answer, both will have the lower frequencies, travelling through walls/ceiling and floor. Just the law of physics, when playing lower frequencies, those lower sound will travel a long way. Even if set at the same playing volume, only turning down the sub will help.

If I were you, I would still get the PB-2000, for been a better sub. Who know what in a few years, your living arrangement will be. Meaning if you move to place where the sub can be played louder, you will not have to replace the PB-1000.


Ray
Thanx alot for your and fast input , appreciated.

Actually I am might be only using this mostly for less than a two years coz I might have to travel .

First I was convinced with pb1000 but everybody I ask advised me to go with pb2000 since it goes deeper and lower , but would I benifit from that if the volum goes too down ? And do you think sb2000 would be less noisy ??I went ported since I play movies most of the time with occasion ps4 .

Thanx again .
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post #29416 of 31773 Old 10-31-2018, 10:13 AM
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Thanx alot for your and fast input , appreciated.

Actually I am might be only using this mostly for less than a two years coz I might have to travel .

First I was convinced with pb1000 but everybody I ask advised me to go with pb2000 since it goes deeper and lower , but would I benifit from that if the volum goes too down ? And do you think sb2000 would be less noisy ??I went ported since I play movies most of the time with occasion ps4 .

Thanx again .

Less noisy for your neighbor, no.

Playing at lower level, you will loose the advantage of the PB-2000 playing deeper and lower, over the PB-1000.
If both models would play at the same volume level, the bass will travel further, since the PB-2000 play lower frequencies.

The way bass work, with our hearing. The lower the frequencies, the less acute our hearing is. The reason, many increase the sub level after calibration, including myself.

In my previous response, I was offering advise thinking of you may move, in the future, and saving you money in the long run. Since you intend to travel, the PB-1000. Might be a better option for your present need. Also I think you could benefit from adding a TT (Tactile Transducer), since you intend to play the sub, at lower level.
Here's a link about TT;
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...ual-guide.html


Ray
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post #29417 of 31773 Old 10-31-2018, 04:46 PM
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Less noisy for your neighbor, no.

Playing at lower level, you will loose the advantage of the PB-2000 playing deeper and lower, over the PB-1000.
If both models would play at the same volume level, the bass will travel further, since the PB-2000 play lower frequencies.

The way bass work, with our hearing. The lower the frequencies, the less acute our hearing is. The reason, many increase the sub level after calibration, including myself.

In my previous response, I was offering advise thinking of you may move, in the future, and saving you money in the long run. Since you intend to travel, the PB-1000. Might be a better option for your present need. Also I think you could benefit from adding a TT (Tactile Transducer), since you intend to play the sub, at lower level.
Here's a link about TT;
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...ual-guide.html


Ray
That's really helped ... many thanks Ray
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post #29418 of 31773 Old 10-31-2018, 09:29 PM
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That's really helped ... many thanks Ray

Glad to be of some assistance

And Thanks for replying, many new members. Do not reply back, once they have the answer, they were looking for.
This is nice to see, very much appreciate to keep many of us, still want trying to help others

Best regards.


Ray

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post #29419 of 31773 Old 10-31-2018, 10:23 PM
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PEQ settings,

Been playing around with these and just say the little boost for vinyl is nice. Remember reading somewhere where Ed recommended PEQ1 63hz Q 2.0 DB 2.0. PEQ2 63hz Q 2.4 DB 2.0. Just wondering are they as choices or are they to be engaged at the same time.
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post #29420 of 31773 Old 11-01-2018, 08:09 AM
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Glad to be of some assistance

And Thanks for replying, many new members. Do not reply back, once they have the answer, they were looking for.
This is nice to see, very much appreciate to keep many of us, still want trying to help others

Best regards.


Ray
+1
Excellent post Ray!

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post #29421 of 31773 Old 11-02-2018, 05:58 PM
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I'll keep things short as I can.... Bought 2 SB4000's last week. They are good but not great. It's my house's issue not the subs. 4500 CF Living room open to the kitchen with travertine tile floors. Very poor room acoustics. Should have probably went with the PB 4000's but don't like the fact that they are so big and just doesn't blend well as the smaller sealed subs.

Spoke with a rep earlier tonight who gave me some advice to go with ported PB or PC 4000's for my large living room. Between those 2, what would you guys recommend? My wife loves me so there is no WAf factor, it's more me making up my mind. I think the PB4000's with the traditional box would hit a little harder and look a little better then the PC 4000. No, I don't want to go PB 16 ultras either

BTW- The rep did tell me that next week something might be coming that would fix my dilemma. I asked what it was and if a new Sub was on the horizon???????? He said I can't really say and laughed.... OMG Any of you insider guys got any info??
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post #29422 of 31773 Old 11-02-2018, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandborn View Post
I'll keep things short as I can.... Bought 2 SB4000's last week. They are good but not great. It's my house's issue not the subs. 4500 CF Living room open to the kitchen with travertine tile floors. Very poor room acoustics. Should have probably went with the PB 4000's but don't like the fact that they are so big and just doesn't blend well as the smaller sealed subs.

Spoke with a rep earlier tonight who gave me some advice to go with ported PB or PC 4000's for my large living room. Between those 2, what would you guys recommend? My wife loves me so there is no WAf factor, it's more me making up my mind. I think the PB4000's with the traditional box would hit a little harder and look a little better then the PC 4000. No, I don't want to go PB 16 ultras either

BTW- The rep did tell me that next week something might be coming that would fix my dilemma. I asked what it was and if a new Sub was on the horizon???????? He said I can't really say and laughed.... OMG Any of you insider guys got any info??
PB-4000: Here is a recent box opening and demo from
on YT.
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post #29423 of 31773 Old 11-02-2018, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandborn View Post
I'll keep things short as I can.... Bought 2 SB4000's last week. They are good but not great. It's my house's issue not the subs. 4500 CF Living room open to the kitchen with travertine tile floors. Very poor room acoustics. Should have probably went with the PB 4000's but don't like the fact that they are so big and just doesn't blend well as the smaller sealed subs.

Spoke with a rep earlier tonight who gave me some advice to go with ported PB or PC 4000's for my large living room. Between those 2, what would you guys recommend? My wife loves me so there is no WAf factor, it's more me making up my mind. I think the PB4000's with the traditional box would hit a little harder and look a little better then the PC 4000. No, I don't want to go PB 16 ultras either

BTW- The rep did tell me that next week something might be coming that would fix my dilemma. I asked what it was and if a new Sub was on the horizon???????? He said I can't really say and laughed.... OMG Any of you insider guys got any info??

Hi,

I think that you are right to go with the ported version, if you are not getting quite the amount of low-bass you want. It isn't just that the ported 4000's will deliver more SPL in the low-bass frequencies, though. You said you are on a tile floor, presumably on top of a concrete pad. In any case, the tile will not conduct low-bass tactile energy the way a suspended wood floor will. I think that many of us may not appreciate what a difference that TR (tactile response) can make to the overall bass experience--especially with action movies--and ported subs generate a lot more low-bass TR than sealed subs do.

A few weeks ago, someone spotted a photo of what appeared to be a PB model subwoofer midway between the 2000 and the 4000. It is, presumably, a PB3000, and there is probably a matching cylinder version. I doubt that I would step-back from a ported 4000, though if I were you. There may be about 3db of SPL between the 3000 and the 4000 series subwoofers, if that is what the SVS rep was referring to.

As for which will be better, both the box (PB4000) and the cylinder (PC4000) will have almost identical SPL and frequency response characteristics. It is possible that the PB4000 could generate slightly more TR than the PC4000, due to the location of the driver and the ports. But, honestly, I would just go with whichever model is more pleasing to your eye, or fits your room better. Getting the subwoofers in their best locations for performance may tend to trump other considerations anyway, and the PC4000's may give you more flexibility in that respect.

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

Last edited by mthomas47; 11-02-2018 at 06:37 PM.
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post #29424 of 31773 Old 11-02-2018, 06:44 PM
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Thanks Ray, really appreciate the info on cascading crossovers. I will give it a try and let the forum know how it turns out.

Nathan
So I tried cascading crossover technique and I feel better overall sound quality across the board. Cascading at 80Hz. Thank you again for the information. Can't wait for Santa to bring me my 2nd PB16-Ultra this year.
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post #29425 of 31773 Old 11-02-2018, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiocologne View Post
PB-4000: Here is a recent box opening and demo from Techno Dad on YT.
Thanks for the link AudioC- unfortunately, I've watched Techno dad's vid as well as gotten a Demo disk from him not to mention watching all the videos by Hometheaterdude, Youthman, ETC. I seriously have researched SVS subs to death in the last month or longer LOL....


Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

I think that you are right to go with the ported version, if you are not getting quite the amount of low-bass you want. It isn't just that the ported 4000's will deliver more SPL in the low-bass frequencies, though. You said you are on a tile floor, presumably on top of a concrete pad. In any case, the tile will not conduct low-bass tactile energy the way a suspended wood floor will. I think that many of us may not appreciate what a difference that TR (tactile response) can make to the overall bass experience--especially with action movies--and ported subs generate a lot more low-bass TR than sealed subs do.

A few weeks ago, someone spotted a photo of what appeared to be a PB model subwoofer midway between the 2000 and the 4000. It is, presumably, a PB3000, and there is probably a matching cylinder version. I doubt that I would step-back from a ported 4000, though if I were you. There may be about 3db of SPL between the 3000 and the 4000 series subwoofers, if that is what the SVS rep was referring to.

As for which will be better, both the box (PB4000) and the cylinder (PC4000) will have almost identical SPL and frequency response characteristics. It is possible that the PB4000 could generate slightly more TR than the PC4000, due to the location of the driver and the ports. But, honestly, I would just go with whichever model is more pleasing to your eye, or fits your room better. Getting the subwoofers in their best locations for performance may tend to trump other considerations anyway, and the PC4000's may give you more flexibility in that respect.

Regards,
Mike
Mike you're awesome! I was hoping you would have replied as I know a lot of guys here on AVS value your wealth of info and knowledge. I kinda figured it was a 3000 series or something in between the 2000/4000 models after the rep told me that over the phone. Anyway, yeah I am really leaning towards the PB 4000. My system is not the greatest by any means, but I run a 9.2 surround system with JBL Studio L series speakers, running them through a Denon 7200WA/Emotiva XPA-2 amp system.

The issue is my large open living room/kitchen sucks out a lot of the sound and I am trying to fill it back up with some nice deep, controlled base. I hope the PB 4000's will do the trick. I've done the sub woofer crawl, and ran audyssey. All my speakers are small and at 80 HZ, so I've done everything on my end to tweak my system and space the best that I know and can. Anyway, thanks again and I will report back with an update once I get the PB 4000's!
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post #29426 of 31773 Old 11-02-2018, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandborn View Post
Thanks for the link AudioC- unfortunately, I've watched Techno dad's vid as well as gotten a Demo disk from him not to mention watching all the videos by Hometheaterdude, Youthman, ETC. I seriously have researched SVS subs to death in the last month or longer LOL....



Mike you're awesome! I was hoping you would have replied as I know a lot of guys here on AVS value your wealth of info and knowledge. I kinda figured it was a 3000 series or something in between the 2000/4000 models after the rep told me that over the phone. Anyway, yeah I am really leaning towards the PB 4000. My system is not the greatest by any means, but I run a 9.2 surround system with JBL Studio L series speakers, running them through a Denon 7200WA/Emotiva XPA-2 amp system.

The issue is my large open living room/kitchen sucks out a lot of the sound and I am trying to fill it back up with some nice deep, controlled base. I hope the PB 4000's will do the trick. I've done the sub woofer crawl, and ran audyssey. All my speakers are small and at 80 HZ, so I've done everything on my end to tweak my system and space the best that I know and can. Anyway, thanks again and I will report back with an update once I get the PB 4000's!



You are very welcome, and thanks for the compliment! Your system sounds good to me and so do the things you have done to optimize your sound. I think you are going to like what a couple of ported subs will do in your room. I would expect the PB4000's to work very nicely where your SB4000's are now, although moving them a little one way or another may help.

If I were you, I would run the PB4000's in Extended mode, and then experiment with cascading crossovers, which are explained in the section linked below. Since you are already running 80Hz crossovers, I think you would be an excellent candidate to benefit from this technique.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...nces.html#IIIC

I will be very interested to hear your impressions, once you have the PB4000's!

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #29427 of 31773 Old 11-02-2018, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
You are very welcome, and thanks for the compliment! Your system sounds good to me and so do the things you have done to optimize your sound. I think you are going to like what a couple of ported subs will do in your room. I would expect the PB4000's to work very nicely where your SB4000's are now, although moving them a little one way or another may help.

If I were you, I would run the PB4000's in Extended mode, and then experiment with cascading crossovers, which are explained in the section linked below. Since you are already running 80Hz crossovers, I think you would be an excellent candidate to benefit from this technique.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...nces.html#IIIC

I will be very interested to hear your impressions, once you have the PB4000's!

Regards,
Mike
+1

Wholeheartedly agree. I've had the PB4000's predecessors (PB13's) in a 4800cf space providing excellent performance. Also, I'm guessing the anticipated "PB3000" will be the replacement for the PB2000 or as you've suggested...slotted between the PB2000 and PB4000...we'll know next week!
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post #29428 of 31773 Old 11-02-2018, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by audiocologne View Post
PB-4000: Here is a recent box opening and demo from Techno Dad on YT.

, thanks for posting this video, this guy have lot, of charisma, and was fun to enjoy!


Ray
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post #29429 of 31773 Old 11-02-2018, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
You are very welcome, and thanks for the compliment! Your system sounds good to me and so do the things you have done to optimize your sound. I think you are going to like what a couple of ported subs will do in your room. I would expect the PB4000's to work very nicely where your SB4000's are now, although moving them a little one way or another may help.

If I were you, I would run the PB4000's in Extended mode, and then experiment with cascading crossovers, which are explained in the section linked below. Since you are already running 80Hz crossovers, I think you would be an excellent candidate to benefit from this technique.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...nces.html#IIIC

I will be very interested to hear your impressions, once you have the PB4000's!

Regards,
Mike
Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandborn View Post
Thanks for the link AudioC- unfortunately, I've watched Techno dad's vid as well as gotten a Demo disk from him not to mention watching all the videos by Hometheaterdude, Youthman, ETC. I seriously have researched SVS subs to death in the last month or longer LOL....

Mike you're awesome! I was hoping you would have replied as I know a lot of guys here on AVS value your wealth of info and knowledge. I kinda figured it was a 3000 series or something in between the 2000/4000 models after the rep told me that over the phone. Anyway, yeah I am really leaning towards the PB 4000. My system is not the greatest by any means, but I run a 9.2 surround system with JBL Studio L series speakers, running them through a Denon 7200WA/Emotiva XPA-2 amp system.

The issue is my large open living room/kitchen sucks out a lot of the sound and I am trying to fill it back up with some nice deep, controlled base. I hope the PB 4000's will do the trick. I've done the sub woofer crawl, and ran audyssey. All my speakers are small and at 80 HZ, so I've done everything on my end to tweak my system and space the best that I know and can. Anyway, thanks again and I will report back with an update once I get the PB 4000's!
Just to add, from Mike post, on the first quote.

While few do not like-it, many more do. And I am of them now.
I tried-it at 80Hz, and work perfect for me, and Love the results.
That said, some prefer 90Hz.

Worth trying, it only take a few minutes to do
Change the setting on the sub, and a few more on the AVR.
And if un-happy with the results, a few more minutes, to go reverse the situation. Nothing like a Calibration


Ray

Last edited by darthray; 11-02-2018 at 11:48 PM.
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post #29430 of 31773 Old 11-03-2018, 11:39 AM
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Hi SVS owners,

Please help me out!

How many SB4000 or PC4000 ( in sealed mode only!! ) do I need to replace my current subs? I have one Rythmik FV25HP in front right corner, and two Klipsch R-115SW behind sofa, in an L shaped living room a bit more than 50m2.
I can stack SB4000 in front right corner, and place two more behind sofa. Can PC4000 be stacked? Since it's ports are on the top.

The reason for change is that we have got a new family member, a puppy
And so I needed to free sup a bit space, and SVS SB4000 or PC4000 are two with small footprint.
There is another option, REL 212SE, but that's not right place to ask it here.
Another reason is I want to try out sealed subs, but with small footprint.

Thank you all very much for your time!


Cheers,
Jim
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