Originally Posted by mthomas47
That all sounds correct. One other thing I would do is to set the slope in your subs to 24db per octave. That will help them to roll-off even a little faster above, lets say, 80Hz. When you do all of that, you will be concentrating more SPL below 80Hz, and that should make the bass both a little clearer and a little more impactful.
I don't want to call this a night-and-day difference. In fact, I think it's probably fairly subtle for most people. But, extra clarity is always welcome, for its own sake, and I especially notice the difference for dialogue.
I would probably try this without the 63Hz boost, at first, just to get used to it on its own. And then, I would add it back if I wanted to--just seasoning the sound to your individual taste.
The subwoofer boosts that you have added post-Audyssey will, if anything, be a little stronger now, because they will be a little more concentrated below 80Hz. That's not night-and-day either, but dropping your LPF of LFE (in the AVR) from the default 120Hz, to ~80Hz, will make your subwoofer boosts more impactful for the LFE channel.
As you already know, it did wonder for me in my room
Originally Posted by bigzee3
Just wanted to check if I'm doing this right. Mike has mentioned it lots of time as well as I few others so I was reading about it and this is my understanding. Firstly set all speaker crossover in AVR to 80hz or 90hz. Then lower the the low frequency in AVR from default 120hz to match the selected speaker crossover. Third set the LPF in the sub menu to the same setting as the first step. I guessing this is right. Just one other thing should I disable any other PEQs that I might be using in the presets and also does any extra db boost post Audysessy have any effect.
The way I did mine, was the following;
- After doing the Audyssey calibration, I set all my speakers to 80Hz, most were 40-60Hz.
- Then I change the frequency cut off, to 80Hz on the subs (physically on the sub, not from an AVP/AVR).
- Then LFE on my AVP, to 80Hz from the default value of 120Hz.
- turn Off DEQ, a preference thing and my room situation, many prefer this one On.
- And finally added 2 dB, for my subs value from the calibration, on my AVP.
While I use an AVP (Audio Video processor), the same can be apply to an AVR.
My boost was only 2 dB for my room and preference. But it is not uncomment to raise higher than that, as many do.
It is all about personal preference, some like more bass than the other. There is no right or wrong way, for boosting your sub after calibration.
Unless pushing the sub/s too hard, and getting it/them into the dangerous zone of the sub/s amp, to get into clipping, meaning the amp, is out of juice and no longer control the sub driver to come back, after going out. This how bottoming out a sub, happen. Sound like a big POK, and those can destroy any drivers, on any subs, unless built with a protection system, that will not allow the sub to play that loud. While this last paragraph was more, for your personal information's. The same can be apply to Tweeters, mid drivers and bass drivers, for speakers. The reason it is better to have an AVR or amp, with too much power than not enough, to avoid the clipping zone.